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A Voyage Round the World in His Majesty's Sloop, Resolution, commanded by Capt. James Cook, during the Years 1772, 3, 4, 5.

Georg Forster

Guide to color coding:

Geocoding: Latitude and Longitude Readings

Names of Places

Names of People

Dates

PREFACE.

HISTORY does not offer an example of such disinterested efforts, towards the enlargement of human knowledge, as have been made by the British nation, since the accession of his present Majesty to the Throne. America, with all its riches, might long have remained undiscovered, if the unequelled perserverance and the glorious enthusiasm of Columbus had not providentially surmounted every difficulty, and, in spite of ignorance and envy, forced their way to Ferdinand and Isabella. That immortal navigator was protected at last, only because he opened a new and evident source of gain. But friendship between Plutus and the Muses was too singular to be sincere; it only lasted whilst they, with no better success than the Danaids, poured heaps of gold into his treasury.

The triumph of science was reserved to later periods of time. Three voyages of discovery, from the most liberal motives, had already been performed, when a fourth was undertaken by order of an enlightened monarch, upon a more enlarged and majestic plan than ever was put in execution before. The greatest navigator of his time, two able astronomers, a man of science to study nature in all her recesses, and a painter to copy some of her most curious productions, were selected at the expence of the nation. After completing their voyage, they have prepared to give an account of their respective discoveries, which cannot fail of crowning, their employers at least, with immortal honour.

The British legislature did not send out and liberally support my father as a naturalist, who was merely to bring home a collection of butterflies and dried plants. That superior wisdom which guides the counsels of this nation, induced many persons of considerable distinction to act on this occasion with unexampled greatness. So far from prescribing rules for his conduct, they conceived that the man whom they had chosen, prompted by his natural love of science, would endeavour to derive the greatest possible advantages to learning from his voyage. He was only therefore directed to exercise all his talents, and to extend his observations to every remarkable object. From him they expected a philosophical history of the voyage, free from prejudice and vulgar error, where human nature should be represented without any adherence to fallacious systems, and upon the principles of general philanthropy; in short, an account written upon a plan which the learned world had not hitherto seen executed.

My father performed the voyage, and collected his observations agreeably to the ideas which had thus been entertained of him. Fully resolved to complete the purpose of his mission, and to communicate his discoveries to the public, and not allowing himself any time to rest from the fatigues which he had undergone, he inscribed and presented the first specimen of his labours to his majesty within four months after his return [1] Characteres Generum Plantarum quas in Insulis maris australis colleg. &c. Joannes Reinoldus Forster, LL. D. & Georgius Forster. 4to. Lond. 1776. . The history of the voyage, the principal performance which was demanded at his hands, next engrossed his attention. It was at first proposed, that from his own and captain Cook's journals a single narrative should be composed, in which the important observations of each should be inserted, and referred to their proper authors by different marks. My father received a part of captain Cook's journal, and drew up several sheets as a specimen; however, as it was soon after thought more expedient to separate the two journals, this plan was not prosecuted. The Right Hon. the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, being desirous of ornamenting the account of the late discoveries with a number of plates, engraved after the drawing of the artist who went on the voyage, generously granted the whole expence of the engraving [2] This expence amounts to upwards of 2000 l. all the plates being executed by the ablest artists. in equal shares to captain Cook and my father. An agreement was drawn up on the 13th of April, 1776, between captain Cook and my father, in the presence, and with the signature of the earl of Sandwich, specifying the particular parts of the account which were to be prepared for the press by each of the parties separately, and confirming to them both jointly the generous gift of the plates from the Board of Admiralty. In consequence of this, my father presented a second specimen of his narrative for the perusal of the earl of Sandwich, and was much surprised at first that this second essay was entirely disapproved; but after some time he was convinced, that as the word " narrative" was omitted in the agreement, he had no right to compose a connected account of the voyage. He was told that if he meant to preserve his claim to half the profit arising from the plates which the Board of Admiralty provided, he must conform to the letter of the agreement; and though he had always considered himself as sent out chiefly with a view to write the history of the voyage, he acquiesced for the benefit of his family, and strictly confined himself to the publication of his unconnected philosophical observations made in the course of the voyage.

I must confess, it hurt me much, to see the chief intent of my father's mission defeated, and the public disappointed in their expectations of a philosophical recital of facts. However, as I had been appointed his assistant in the course of this expedition, I thought it incumbent upon me, at least to attempt to write such a narrative. Every consideration prompted me to undertake the task, which it was no longer in his power to perform. It was a duty we owed to the public; I had collected sufficient materials during the voyage, and I had as much good will to begin with, as any traveller that ever wrote, or any compiler that was ever bribed to mutilate a narrative. I was bound by no agreement whatsoever, and that to which my father had signed, did not make him answerable for my actions, nor in the most distant manner preclude his giving me assistance. Therefore in every important circumstance, I had leave to consult his journals, and have been enabled to draw up my narrative with the most scrupulous attention to historical truth.

Two anonymous publications on the subject of our voyage have already appeared; but the present age is too enlightened to credit marvellous histories, which would have disgusted even the romantic disposition of our ancestors. The incidents of our voyage are various, and deeply interesting, without the assistance of fiction. Our course has been by turns fertile, and barren of events; but as the industry of the labourer reaps some advantage from the most ungrateful soil, so the most dreary solitudes have yielded instruction to the inquisitive mind.

Another narrative of this circumnavigation, is said to have been written by captain James Cook of His Majesty's Royal Navy, under whose command it was performed. That account will be ornamented with a great variety of plates, representing views of the countries which we visited, portraits of the natives, figures of their boats, arms, and utensils, together with a number of particular charts of the new discoveries; and all these plates, engraved at the expence of the Board of Admiralty, are the joint property of captain Cook and my father.

At first sight it may seem superfluous to offer two relations of this voyage to the world; but when we consider them as narratives of interesting facts, it must be allowed that the latter will be placed in a stronger light, by being related by different persons. Our occupations when in harbour were widely different; whilst captain Cook was employed in victualling or refitting the ship, I went in quest of the manifold objects which Nature had scattered throughout the land. Nothing is therefore more obvious, than that each of us may have caught many distinct incidents, and that our observations will frequently be foreign to each other. But above all, it is to be observed, that the same objects may have been seen in different points of view, and that the same fact may often have given rise to different ideas. Many circumstances familiar to the navigator, who has been bred on the rough element, strike the landman with novelty, and furnish entertainment to his readers. The seaman views many objects on shore with retrospect to maritime affairs, whilst the other attends to their œconomical uses. In short, the different branches of science which we have studied, our turns of mind, our heads and hearts have made a difference in our sensations, reflections, and expressions. This disparity may have been rendered still more evident, as I have slightly passed over all regulations relative to the interior œconomy of the ship and the crew: I have studiously avoided nautical details both at sea and in harbour, nor ventured to determine, how often we reefed, or split a sail in a storm, how many times we tacked to weather a point, and how often our refractory bark disobeyed her Palinurus, and missed stays. The bearings and distances of projecting capes, of peaks, hills, and hummocks, of bays, harbours, ports, and coves, at different hours of the day, have likewise been in general omitted. These instructive particulars thrive in the proper field of the navigator. The history of captain Cook's first Voyage Round the World [3] In the Endeavour, from 1768, to 1771, drawn up by Dr. John Hawkesworth. , was eagerly read by all European nations, but incurred universal censure, I had almost said contempt. It was the fate of the History, to be compiled by a person who had not been on the voyage; and to the frivolous observations, the uninteresting digressions, and sophistical principle of this writer, the ill-success of the work has been attributed; though few are able to determine, with what degree of justice the blame is thrown upon the compiler. The active life of captain Cook, and his indefatigable pursuits after discoveries, have made it impossible for him to superintend the printing of his own Journals; and the public, I am much afraid, must again converse with him by means of an interpreter. His present performance will, in all probability, have another circumstance in common with the former, where many important observations, thought obnoxious, have been suppressed, as is customary in France. The same authority which blew off M. de Bougainville from the island of Juan Fernandez, could hush to silence the British guns, whilst the Endeavour cannonaded the Portuguese fort at Madeira [4] The two circumstances here alluded to, are well known facts, though suppressed in the published narratives. M. de Bougainville spent some time at Juan Fernandez, and completely refreshed his crew there, though he wishes to have it understood, that contrary winds prevented his touching at that island. Captain Cook in the Endeavour, battered the Loo-fort at Madeira, in conjunction with an English frigate, thus resenting an affront which had been offered to the British flag. . Without entering farther into this subject, I shall only observe, that the above remark will give an adequate idea of the authenticity of a performance, which is submitted to censure and mutilation, before it is offered to the public.

The philosophers of the present age, to obviate the seeming contradictions in the accounts of different travellers, have been at the trouble to select certain authors in whom they have placed confidence, and rejected as fabulous the assertions of all the rest. Without being competent judges of the subject, they have assumed a few circumstances as facts; and wresting even those to suit their own systems, have built a superstructure which pleases at a distance, but upon nearer examination partakes of the illusive nature of a dream. The learned, at last grown tired of being deceived by the powers of rhetoric, and by sophistical arguments, raised a general cry after a simple collections of facts. They had their wish; facts were collected in all parts of the world, and yet knowledge was not increased. They received a confused heap of disjointed limbs, which no art could reunite into a whole; and the rage of hunting after facts soon rendered them incapable of forming and resolving a single proposition; like those minute enquirers, whose life is wholly spent in the anatomical dissection of flies, from whence they never draw a single conclusion for the use of mankind, or even of brutes. Besides this, two travellers seldom saw the same object in the same manner, and each reported the fact differently, according to his sensations, and his peculiar mode of thinking. It was therefore necessary to be acquainted with the observer, before any use could be made of his observations. The traveller was no longer to trust to chance for a variety of occurrences, but to make use of his first discovery, as the thread of Ariadne, by the help of which he might guide his steps through the labyrinth of human knowledge. It was therefore requisite that he should have penetration sufficient to combine different facts, and to form general views from thence, which might in some measure guide him to new discoveries, and point out the proper objects of farther investigation. This was the idea with which I embarked on the late voyage round the world, and agreeable to which I have collected materials for the present publication, as far as the time, my situation and abilities, would permit. I have always endeavoured in this narrative to connect the ideas arising from different occurrences, in order, if possible, to throw more light upon the nature of the human mind, and to lift the soul into that exalted station, from whence the extensive view must " justify the ways of God to man." Whether I have succeeded or failed in the attempt, remains to be decided; but the rectitude of the intention cannot, I trust, be misconstrued. I have sometimes obeyed the powerful dictates of my heart, and given voice to my feeling; for, as I do not pretend to be free from the weaknesses common to my fellow creatures, it was necessary for every reader to know the colour of the glass through which I looked. Of this at least I am certain, that a gloomy livid tinge hath never clouded my sight. Accustomed to look on all the various tribes of men, as entitled to an equal share of my good will, and conscious, at the same time, of the rights which I possess in common with every individual among them, I have endeavoured to make my remarks with a retrospect to our general improvement and welfare; and neither attachment nor aversion to particular nations have influence my praise or censure.

The degree of pleasure which may result from the perusal of a work, depends not only upon the variety of the subject, but likewise upon the purity and graces of style. We must resign all pretensions to taste and sentiment, if we did not prefer a well-told tale to a lame and tedious narration. Of late, however, the just esteem in which an elegant diction is held, has been so far abused, that authors, relying on the fluency of their language, have paid no attention to the matter which they proposed, but deceived the public with a dry and uninstructive performance. Such writers may possibly acquire the approbation of some individuals,

" Who haunt Parnassus but to please their ears;"

But I am convinced the generality of readers are always just enough to overlook, in some measure, the defects of style in favour of the novelty or usefulness of the subject. Without attempting to be curiously elegant, I have aimed at perspicuity; and having paid the strictest attention to this particular, I hope to meet with indulgence, if some errors of less moment have escaped my notice. It was owing to the repeated corrections of some valuable friends, to which I submitted my manuscript, that I sent it late to the press; but from the unexampled activity of the printer, I am enabled to lay my work before the public even sooner than I expected. The Chart, on which our line of circumnavigation is delineated, has been engraved by the ablest artist in that branch [5] Mr. W. Whitchurch, Pleasant-row, Islington. , and I constructed it with the most minute attention from the best authorities, which are mentioned in its margin. After specifying the above particulars, of which I thought it my duty to apprize the reader, it only remains to discharge a promise made in the course of the work, respecting an account of the education and equipment of O-Maï in this country [6] The native of the Society Islands brought over by captain Furneaux in the Adventure, and vulgarly called Omiah. . (See vol. I. p. 389.) In the narrow limits of a Peface I can only comprehend in a few lines the substance of what might furnish an entertaining volume. O-Maï has been considered either as remarkably stupid, or very intelligent, according to the different allowances which were made by those who judged of his abilities. His language, which is destitute of every harsh consonant, and where every word ends in a vowel, had so little exercised his organs of speech, that they were wholly unfit to pronounce the more complicated English sounds; and this physical, or rather habitual defect, has too often been misconstrued. Upon his arrival in England, he was immediately introduced into genteel company, led to the most splendid entertainments of this great and luxurious metropolis, and presented at court amidst a brilliant circle of the first nobility. He naturally imitated that easy and elegant politeness which is so prevalent in all those places, and which is one of the ornaments of civilized society; he adopted the manners, the occupations, and amusements of his companions, and gave many proofs of a quick perception and lively fancy. Among the instances of his intelligence, I need only mention his knowledge of the game of chess, in which he had made an amazing proficiency. The multiplicity of objects which crouded upon him, prevented his paying due attention to those particulars which would have been beneficial to himself and to his countrymen at his return. He was not able to form a general comprehensive view of our whole civilized system, and to abstract from thence what appeared most strikingly useful and applicable to the improvement of his country. His senses were charmed by beauty, symmetry, harmony, and magnificence; they called aloud for gratification, and he was accustomed to obey their voice. The continued round of enjoyments left him no time to think of his future life; and being destitute of the genius of Tupaïa, whose superior abilities would have enabled him to form a plan for his own conduct, his understanding remained unimproved. It can hardly be supposed that he never formed a wish to obtain some knowledge of our agriculture, arts, and manufactures; but no friendly Mentor ever attempted to cherish and to gratify this wish, much less to improve his moral character, to teach him our exalted ideas of virtue, and the sublime principles of revealed religion. After having spent near two years in England, and happily undergone inocculation for the small pox [7] This disease proved fatal to Aotourou, the native of O-Taheitee, whom M. de Bougainville brought to France, and who received nearly the same education as O-Maï. , he embarked with captain Cook in the Resolution, which sailed from Plymouth in July 1776. The various scenes of debauchery, which are almost unavoidable in the civilized world, had not corrupted the natural good qualities of his heart. At parting from his friends his tears flowed plentifully, and his silence and outward behaviour proved him deeply affected. He carried with him an infinite variety of dresses, ornaments, and other trifles, which are daily invented in order to supply our artificial wants. His judgement was in its infant state, and therefore, like a child, he coveted almost every thing he saw, and particularly that which had amused him by some unexpected effect. To gratify his childish inclinations, as it should seem, rather than from any other motive, he was indulged with a portable organ, an electrical machine, a coat of mail, and suit of armour. Perhaps my readers expect to be told of his taking on board some articles of real use to his country; I expected it likewise, but was disappointed. However, though his country will not receive a citizen from us much improved, or fraught with valuable acquisitions, which might have made him the benefactor, and perhaps the lawgiver of his people, still I am happy to reflect, that the ships which are once more sent out upon discovery, are destined to carry the harmless natives of Taheitee a present of new domestic animals. The introduction of black cattle and sheep on that fertile island, will doubtless increase the happiness of its inhabitants; and this gift may hereafter be conducive, by many intermediate causes, to the improvement of their intellectual faculties. And here I cannot but observe, that considering the small expence at which voyages of discovery are carried on [8] The whole expence of the voyage in which I embarked did not exceed the sum of 25000 l. including all extraordinary disbursements. , the nation which favours these enterprizes is amply repaid by the benefit derived to our fellow-creatures. I cannot help thinking that our late voyage would reflect immortal honour on our employers, if it had no other merit than stocking Taheitee with goats, the Friendly Isles and New Hebrides with dogs, and New Zeeland and New Caledonia with hogs. It is therefore sincerely to be wished, that voyages of discovery, upon a disinterested plan, may still be prosecuted with vigour, as much remains to be done, even in the South Sea; unless it should be in the power of illiberal men to defeat the great and generous views of a monarch, who is justly called the patron of science. A single remark, which may be of extensive use to posterity; a single circumstance, which may make happy our fellow-creatures in those remote parts of the world, repays the toils of the navigation, and bestows that great reward, the consciousness of good and noble actions.

London,

March 1, 1777.

G. FORSTER.

A VOYAGE round the WORLD.

BOOK I.

CHAP. I.

Departure - Passage from Plymouth to Madeira - Description of that Island.

Ubi animus ex multis miseriis atque perioulis requievit, - statui res gestas - perscribere; tamen ( hoc) imprimis arduum videtur, - quia plerique, quæ delicta reprehenderis, malivolentia et invidia putant; ubi de magna virtute et gloria bonorum memores, quæ sibi quisque facilia factu putat, aequo animo accipit; supra ea, veluti ficta, pro falsis ducit.

Sallust.

[1772. June.][Thursday 11.]A VOYAGE to explore the high southern latitudes of our globe was resolved upon, soon after the return of the Endeavour in 1771. Two stout vessels, the Resolution and the Adventure, were fitted as King's sloops for that purpose, and the command of them given to Capt. James Cook and Capt. Tobias Furneaux. On the 11th of June, 1772, my father and myself were appointed to embark in this expedition, in order to collect, describe, and draw the objects of natural history which we might expect to meet with during our course. We prepared with the utmost alacrity for this arduous undertaking, and in the [Saturday 20.]space of nine days sent all our baggage on board the Resolution, then at Sheerness, but which failed from thence [Monday 22.]for Plymouth on the 22d of June.

We left London on the 26th, and in two Days reached Plymouth, where the Resolution was not yet arrived. The 1st of July, we went on board the Augusta Yacht, and waited on the Earl of Sandwich, then First Lord Commissioner for executing the office of High Admiral. His Lordship expecting the Resolution to come into Plymouth Sound that day, desired us to be on board of her, between the hours of five and six in the evening. However, to our great disappointment, she did not appear, and his Lordship left Plymouth the next morning.

[1772. July.][Friday 3.]The 3d of July early, we saw the Resolution lying in the Sound, where she had arrived the night before. Captain Cook purposed to stay here eight or ten days, and gave orders, that some necessary shelves should be fixed up in our cabins previous to our reception on board. The desire of letting pass no opportunity for the improvement of science, and for our own instruction, prompted us to pass these leisure hours in visiting the tin mines in Cornwall. Having satisfied our curiosity, and being both highly [Wednesday 8.]entertained and much instructed by the sight of the rich extensive works at Poldyce and Kenwyn, we returned to Plymouth on the 8th of July.

[Saturday 11.]On Saturday the 11th, we went on board the Resolution sloop, which was now to sail with the first fair wind. [Sunday 12.]The next day it blew a fresh gale; and my father, walking on the quarter-deck, observed our vessel to alter her position considerably in regard to the Adventure (which was to accompany us on our voyage) and to a mast-ship, both at anchor in the Sound; at the same time taking notice that she approached the rocks under the castle. He immediately communicated his apprehensions to Mr. Gilbert, the master, who happened to be upon deck with him. The master found, that the vessel having been moored to one of the transport buoys in the Sound, the buoy, not intended to support such a violent strain, had broke from its ground tackle, and was adrift together with the sloop. In an instant all hands were on deck, the sails spread, and the cables cleared. We shot past the Adventure and mast-ship, and came to an anchor, after escaping the most imminent danger of being dashed against the rocks under the fort. Our seamen looked upon this fortunate event, as an omen favourable to the success of the voyage, while we could not avoid reflecting on the tutelar guidance of divine Providence, which had thus manifested itself in a critical moment, that might easily have put an effectual stop to our projects [9] That it is not uncommon for ships, under the same circumstance as the Resolution sloop, to take considerable damage, appears from what happened to the Aldborough, May 19, 1776, which broke from the buoys in the same manner, but drove ashore on Drake's island, and was bulged to pieces. . We shall, in the course of this history, find frequent instances of impending destruction, where all human help would have been ineffectual, if our better fortune had not prevailed under the superior direction of him, without whose knowledge not a single hair falls from our heads. We are ever ready to give due applause and do full justice to the great skill and good conduct of our able circumnavigators, but we cannot avoid attributing every thing to its proper source, and that especially to a higher power, which human art, though aided by effrontery and irreligion, dares not vindicate to itself.

[Monday 13.]Early on Monday the 13th, we set sail from Plymouth Sound, in company with the Adventure. I turned a parting look on the fertile hills of England, and gave way to the natural emotions of affection which that prospect awakened; till the beauty of the morning, and the novelty of gliding through the smooth water attracted my attention, and dispersed the gloominess of former ideas. We soon passed by Eddistone lighthouse, a lofty and well-contrived tower, which is of the greatest advantage to navigation and commerce. It was impossible to look at it, without shuddering with apprehensions for the lonely keepers, who are often obliged to pass three months there, deprived of all communication with the main-land. The fate of Winstanley, who was really crushed by the downfall of a former structure, which he himself had built on this rock, and the vibrations of the present tower, when winds and waves assail it, must give them strong fears of a dreadful and sudden end.

In proportion as we stood off shore, the wind encreased, the billows rose higher, and the vessel rolled violently from side to side. Those who were not used to the sea, nay some of the oldest mariners, were affected by the sea-sickness, in various degrees of violence. It was of different duration with different persons, and after it had continued three days amongst us, we found the greatest relief from red port wine mulled, with spices and sugar.

[Monday 20.]On the 20th, we fell in with Cape Ortegal , on the coast of Gallicia in Spain; the natives call it Ortiguera, and it was probably the Promontorium Trileucum of the ancients. The country hereabouts is hilly; where the naked rock appears it is white, and the tops of the mountains are covered with wood. I also observed some corn-fields almost ripe, and some spots which seemed to be covered with heath. The eagerness with which every body gazed at this land, powerfully persuaded me, that mankind were not meant to be amphibious animals, and that of course our present situation was an unnatural one; an idea that seems to have occurred to Horace, when he says,

Necquicquam Deus abscidit

Prudens oceano dissociabili

Terras; si tamen impiæ

Non tangenda rates transiliunt vada. Hor.

;

In vain did Nature's wise command

Divide the waters from the land,

If daring ships and men profane,

Invade th' inviolable main. Dryden.

[Wednesday 22.]On the 22d, we saw the lighthouse near Corunna , or, as our sailors absurdly call it, the Groyn. It was perfectly calm, the water smooth as a mirror, and the hilly prospect very agreeably varied by corn-fields, inclosures, small hamlets, and gentlemen's seats, every thing conspiring to banish the remains of the sea-sickness entirely from amongst us, and to bring back that chearfulness which could not well keep company with empty stomachs and a tempestuous sea. In the evening we were near a small tartan, which we took to be a fishing vessel from the Spanish coast; and in that persuasion, a boat was hoisted out and sent towards her, in order, if possible, to purchase some fresh fish. In going thither we observed the whole surface of the sea every where covered with myriads of little crabs, not above an inch in diameter, which we found were of the species called cancer depurator by Linæus. The little vessel proved to be a French tartan from Marseilles, of about 100 tons burden, freighted with flour for Ferrol and Corunna. The people in her begged for a small supply of fresh water, having been driven far from their course by contrary winds during two months, by which means this necessary article had been exhausted above a fortnight ago, and they were reduced to live upon bread and a little wine. Whilst they continued in this distressful situation, they had met with several ships at sea, and especially with several Spanish men of war, though none had been humane enough to alleviate their sufferings. When the officer who commanded our boat heard this account, he sent their empty barrels on board our vessel to be filled with fresh water, and their eyes sparkled with the liveliest expression of joy when they received it. They thanked Heaven and us, and rejoiced that they should now be able to light their fire again, and be comforted with some boiled provisions, after their long abstinence. So true is it, that a man with a feeling humane heart, may often, at a very cheap rate, indulge the inclination to assist his fellow-creatures.

[Thursday 23.]The next afternoon, three Spanish men of war passed us standing in for Ferrol. One of them seemed to be a 74 gun ship, and the two others carried about 60 guns each. The sternmost first hoisted English colours, but when we shewed ours, she hauled them down, fired a gun to leeward, and hoisted the Spanish ensign. Soon after she fired a shot at the Adventure; but as we kept standing on, the Spaniard put about, and fired another shot just a-head of her. In consequence of this, our vessel brought to, and the Adventure now seemed only to follow our example. The Spaniard then hailed the Adventure in English, and asked " what frigate that was a-head," (meaning our sloop); and having been satisfied in that particular, he would not answer a question of the same nature, which was put to him, but always replied, " I wish you a good voyage." We continued our course, after a scene so humiliating to the masters of the sea, and passed Cape Finisterre during night.

Several porpesses passed us on the 25th, all swimming against the wind, which had been north-easterly ever since we had left Cape Finisterre. At night the sea appeared luminous, particularly the tops of the waves and part of the ship's wake, which were illuminated by a mass of pure light: but, independent of that, there appeared numerous little sparks infinitely brighter than any other part of this phӕnomenon.

[Tuesday 28.]On the 28th, at six of the clock in the morning, we discovered Porto-Santo, which is about five or six leagues long, barren and thinly inhabited. It has only one Villa or town, of the same name, situated on the eastern side, in a valley which is entirely cultivated, and appeared to have a fine verdure from the numerous vineyards it contains. This little island is under the orders of the governor of Madeira, and the number of its inhabitants amounts to about seven hundred.

Soon after we made Madeira and the Ilhas Desertas, corruptly called the Deserters by our seamen. The town of Santa Cruz in Madeira was abreast of us at six in the afternoon. The mountains are here intersected by numerous deep glens and vallies. On the sloping ground we observed several country-houses pleasantly situated amidst surrounding vineyards and lofty cypresses, which give the country altogether a romantic appearance. We were towed to the road of Funchal in a perfect calm, and came to an anchor in the dark.

[Wednesday 29.]Early on the 29th, we were agreeably surprised with the picturesque appearance of the city of Funchal, which is built round the bay, on the gentle ascent of the first hills, in form of an amphitheatre. All its public and private buildings are by this means set off to advantage. They are in general entirely white, many of them two stories high, and covered with low roofs, from whence they derive that elegant eastern stile, and that simplicity, of which our narrow buildings with steep roofs, and numerous stacks of chimnies are utterly destitute. On the sea side are several batteries and platforms with cannon. An old castle, which commands the road, is situated on the top of a steep black rock, surrounded by the sea at high-water, and called by the English Loo-rock . On a neighbouring eminence above the town there is another, called San Joao do Pico , or St. John's castle. The hills beyond the town serve to complete the beauty of the landscape, being covered with vineyards, inclosures, plantations, and groves, interspersed with country-houses and several churches. The whole seemed to raise the idea of a fairy-garden, and enabled us to form some conception of the hanging gardens of queen Semiramis .

About seven o'clock a boat came off to us called the Pratique-boat, having on board a Capitan do Sal , who is once of the two Guarda-Mores of the board of health, appointed to regulate the quarantine of such ships as come from the coast of Barbary, the Arches, and other parts suspected of infectious distempers. This gentleman enquired into the state of health of our ship's company, and the place we came from, and returned on shore with satisfactory information on this subject.

After breakfast we landed, and went with the captains to the house of Mr. Loughnan, a British merchant, who supplied the king's ships, as contractor, with all the necessaries. The consul, Mr. Murray, lately appointed, was not yet arrived, but Mr. Loughnan received us with such hospitality and elegance, as do honour to himself and to the nation in general.

The city is far from answering the expectations which may be formed from its appearance towards the road. Its streets are narrow, ill-paved, and dirty; the houses are built of freestone, or of brick, but they are dark, and only a few of the best, belonging to English merchants or principal inhabitants, are provided with glass-windows; all the others have a kind of lattice work in their stead, which hangs on hinges and may be lifted up occasionally. The ground floors are mostly appropriated for the use of servants, for shops, and store-houses.

The churches and monasteries are very plain buildings, without any display of the architectonic art: their inside exhibits a striking want of taste; the little light which is admitted into them, serving only to display heaps of tinsel ornaments, arranged in a manner which is truely Gothic. The convent of Franciscan friars is clean and spacious, but their gardens seemed not to be kept in the best order. The nuns of Santa Clara politely received us at their grate, but afterwards deputed some old women, to offer the artificial flowers of their manufacture for sale.

We walked with Mr. Loughnan to his country-seat, which is situated on the hills, about a mile from the city. We there met an agreeable company of the principal British merchants established at Madeira. The captains returned on board in the evening, but we accepted of Mr. Loughnan's obliging offer of his house during our short stay.

Our excursions began the next morning, and were continued on the following day. [Friday 31.]At five o'clock in the morning we went upwards along the course of a stream, to the interior hilly part of the country. About one o'clock in the afternoon we came to a chesnut grove, somewhat below the highest summit of the island, having walked about six miles from Mr. Loughnan's house. The air was here remarkably cooler than below, and a fine breeze contributed to its temperature. We now engaged a negro to become our conductor, and after a walk of at least an hour and a half, we returned to our hospitable mansion.

[1772. August.][Saturday 1.]The next day we prepared for our departure. It was with regret that I left this delightful spot, and such generous friends, who know how to enjoy the unspeakable pleasure of communicating happiness to their fellow-citizens of the world. My heart still preserves those sentiments of gratitude and esteem, which made me loth to part from hence, and to resign myself to the common fate of travellers. I was however, pleased to find British hospitality existing abroad, which Smollet could no longer trace in England [10] Vide Humphry Clinker , vol. I. page 102. .

Before I leave this island, I shall offer such remarks, as I had an opportunity of collecting during my stay; and I am induced to believe they will prove acceptable, as they were communicated by sensible Englishmen, who had been inhabitants of Madeira for many years, and are therefore of the best authority. I am aware indeed, that an account of Madeira may by some be looked upon as a superfluous work; but if, upon a candid perusal, it is found to contain such observations as have not yet appeared in the numerous journals of navigators, I hope I shall not need a farther apology. It is very natural to overlook that which is near home, and as it were within our reach, especially when the mind looks forward, on discoveries which it reckons more important, in proportion as they are more remote.

The island of Madeira is about 55 English miles long, and ten miles broad, and was first discovered on the 2d of July, in the year 1419, by Joao Gonzales Zarco , there being no historical foundation for the fabulous report of its discovery by one Machin an Englishman. It is divided into two capitanias, named Funchal and Maxico , from the towns of those names. The former contains two judicatures, viz. Funchal and Calhetta , the latter being a town with the title of a county, belonging to the family of Castello Melhor . The second capitania likewise comprehends two judicatures, viz. Maxico (read Mashico) and San Vicente .

Funchal is the only cidade or city in this island, which has also seven villas or towns; of which there are four, Calhetta, Camara de Lobos, Ribiera braba , and Ponta de Sol in the capitania of Funchal, which is divided into twenty-six parishes. The other three are in the capitania of Maxico, which consist of seventeen parishes; these towns are called Maxico, San Vicente , and Santa Cruz .

The governor is at the head of all the civil and military departments of this island, of Porto-Santo, the Salvages , and the Ilhas Desertas , which last only contain the temporary huts of some fishermen, who resort thither in pursuit of their business. At the time when I was at Madeira, the governor was Don Joao Antonio de Saa Pereira . He was esteemed a man of good sense and temper, but rather reserved and cautious.

The law department is under the corregidor, who is appointed by the king of Portugal, commonly sent from Lisbon, and holds his place during the king's pleasure. All causes come to him from inferior courts by appeal. Each judicature has a senate, and a Juiz or judge, whom they choose, presides over them. At Funchal he is called, Juiz da Fora, and in the absence, or after the death of the corregidor, acts as his deputy. The foreign merchants elect their own judge, called the Providor, who is at the same time, collector of the king's customs and revenues, which amount in all to about one hundred and twenty thousand pounds sterling. Far the greatest part of this sum is applied towards the salaries of civil and military officers, the pay of troops, and the maintenance of public buildings. This revenue arises, first from the tenth of all the produce of this island belonging to the king, by virtue of his office as grand master of the order of Christ; secondly, from ten per cent. duties laid on all imports, provisions excepted; and lastly, from the eleven per cent. charged on all exports.

The island has but one company of regular soldiers of a hundred men: the rest of the military force is a militia consisting of three thousand men, divided into companies, each commanded by a captain, who has one lieutenant under him, and one ensign. There is no pay given to either the private men, or the officers of this militia, and yet their places are much sought after, on account of the rank which they communicate. These troops are embodied once a year, and exercised during one month. All the military are commanded by the Serjeante Môr . The governor has two Capitanos de Sal about him, who do duty as aides-de-camp.

The secular priests on the island are about twelve hundred, many of whom are employed as private tutors. Since the expulsion of the Jesuits, no regular public school is to be found here, unless we except a seminary where a priest, appointed for that purpose, instructs and educates ten students at the king's expence. These wear a red cloak over the usual black gown, worn by ordinary students. All those who intend to go into orders, are obliged to qualify themselves by studying in the university of Coimbra, lately re-established in Portugal. There is also a dean and chapter at Madeira, with a bishop at their head, whose income is considerably greater than the governor's; it consists of one hundred and ten pipes of wine, and of forty muys of wheat, each containing twenty-four bushels; which amounts in common years to three thousand pounds sterling. Here are likewise sixty or seventy Franciscan friars, in four monasteries, one of which is at Funchal. About three hundred nuns live on the island, in four convents, of the orders of Merci, Sta. Clara, Incarnaçao, and Bom Jesus. Those of the last-mentioned institution may marry whenever they choose, and leave their monastery.

In the year 1768, the inhabitants living in the forty-three parishes of Madeira, amounted to 63,913, of whom there were 31,341 males, and 32,572 females. But in that year 5243 persons died, and no more than 2198 children were born; so that the number of the dead exceeded that of the born by 3045. It is highly probable that some epidemical distemper carried off so disproportionate a number in that year, as the island would shortly be entirely depopulated, if the mortality were always equal to this. Another circumstance concurs to strengthen this supposition, namely, the excellence of the climate. The weather is in general mild and temperate: In summer the heat is very moderate on the higher parts of the island, whither the better sort of people retire for that season; and in winter the snow remains there for several days, whilst it is never known to continue above a day or two in the lower parts. The accuracy of the numbers of dead and born, may however be entirely depended upon, as a complete list extracted from the parish books was procured for us, from the governor's secretary.

The common people of this island are of a tawny colour, and well shaped, though they have large feet, owing perhaps to the efforts they are obliged to make in climbing the craggy paths of this mountainous country. Their faces are oblong, their eyes dark; their black hair naturally falls in ringlets, and begins to crisp in some individuals, which may perhaps be owing to intermarriages with negroes; in general they are hard featured, but not disagreeable. Their women are too frequently ill-favoured, and want the florid complexion, which, when united to a pleasing assemblage of regular features, gives our Northern fair ones the superiority over all their sex. They are small, have prominent cheek-bones, large feet, and ungraceful gait, and the colour of the darkest brunette. The just proportions of their body, the fine form of their hands, and their large, lively eyes, seem in some measure to compensate for those defects. The labouring men in summer, wear linen trowsers, a coarse shirt, a large hat, and boots; some had a short jacket made of cloth, and a long cloak, which they sometimes carried over their arm. The women wear a petticoat, and a short corselet or jacket, closely fitting their shape, which is a simple, and often not inelegant dress. They have also a short, but wide cloak, and those that are unmarried, tie their hair on the crown of their head, on which they wear no covering.

The country people are exceeding sober and frugal; their diet in general consisting of bread and onions, or other roots, and little animal food. However, they avoid eating tripe, or any offals, because it is proverbially said of a very poor man, " he is reduced to eat tripe." Their common drink is water, or an infusion on the remaining rind or skin of the grape (after it has passed through the winepress) which when fermented, acquires some tartness and acidity, but cannot be kept very long. The wine for which the island is so famous, and which their own hands prepare, seldom if ever regales them.

Their principal occupation is the planting and raising of vines, but as that branch of agriculture requires little attendance during the greatest part of the year, they naturally incline to idleness. The warmth of the climate, which renders great provision against the inclemencies of weather unnecessary, and the ease with which the cravings of appetite are satisfied, must tend to indolence, wherever the regulations of the legislature do not counteract it, by endeavouring with the prospect of encreasing happiness, to infuse the spirit of industry. It seems the Portuguese government does not pursue the proper methods against this dangerous lethargy of the state. They have lately ordered the plantation of olive-trees here, on such spots as are too dry and barren to bear vines; but they have not thought of giving temporary assistance to the labourers, and have offered no premium by which these might be induced to conquer their reluctance to innovations, and aversion to labour.

The vineyards are held only on an annual tenure, and the farmer reaps but four tenths of the produce, since four other tenths are paid in kind to the owner of the land, one tenth to the king, and one to the clergy. Such small profits, joined to the thought of toiling merely for the advantage of others, if improvements were attempted, entirely preclude the hopes of a future increase. Oppressed as they are, they have however preserved a high degree of chearfulness, and contentment; their labours are commonly alleviated with songs, and in the evening they assemble from different cottages, to dance to the drowsy music of a guittar.

The inhabitants of the towns are more ill-favoured than the country people, and often pale and lean. The men wear French cloaths, commonly black, which do not seem to fit them, and have been in fashion in the polite world about half a century ago. Their ladies are delicate, and have agreeable features; but the characteristic jealousy of the men still locks them up, and deprives them of a happiness which the country women, amidst all their distresses, enjoy. Many of the better people, are a sort of petite noblesse, which we would call gentry, whose genealogical pride makes them unsociable and ignorant, and causes a ridiculous affectation of gravity. The landed property is in the hands of a few ancient families, who live at Funchal, and in the various towns on the island.

Madeira consists of one large mountain, whose branches rise every where from the sea towards the centre of the isle, converging to the summit, in the midst of which, I was told, is a depression or excavation, called the Val by the inhabitants, always covered with a fresh and delicate herbage. The stones on the isle, which we examined, seemed to have been in the fire, were full of holes, and of a blackish colour; in short, the greater part of them were lava. A few of them were of the kind which the Derby-shire miners call dunstone. The soil of the whole island is a tarras mixed with some particles of clay, lime, and sand, and has much the same appearance as some earths we since found on the isle of Ascension From this circumstance, and from the excavation of the summit of the mountain, I am induced to suppose, that in some remote period, a volcano has produced the lava, and the ochreous particles, and that the Val was formerly its crater. At first sight of Madeira I was of a different opinion; but the black Loo-rock, the cliff on which St. John's castle stands, the nature of the soil and stones, and the situation of the Val, convinced me, that the whole had formerly undergone a violent change by fire.

Many brooks and small rivulets descend from the summits in deep chasms or glens, which separate the various parts of the isle. We could not however perceive any plains mentioned by others [11] See an Account of the Voyages undertaken by the order of his present Majesty, and successively performed by the Captains Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Cook . - Compiled by Dr. Hawkesworth. Vol. II. p. 7. , through which the waters would probably have taken their course, if any such had existed. The beds of the brooks are in some places covered with stones of all sizes, carried down from the higher parts by the violence of winter rains or floods of melted snow. The water is conducted by wears and channels into the vineyards, where each proprietor has the use of it for a certain time; some being allowed to keep a constant supply of it, some to use it thrice, others twice, and others only once a week. As the heat of the climate renders this supply of water to the vineyards absolutely necessary, it is not without great expence that a new vineyard can be planted; for the maintenance of which, the owners must purchase water at a high price, from those who are constantly supplied, and are thus enabled to spare some of it.

Wherever a level piece of ground can be contrived in the higher hills, the natives make plantations of eddoes ( arum esculentum, Linn.) enclosed by a kind of dyke to cause a stagnation, as that plant succeeds best in swampy ground. Its leaves serve as food for hogs, and the country people use the roots for their own nourishment.

The sweet potatoe ( convolvulus batatas) is planted for the same purpose, and makes a principal article of diet; together with chesnuts, which grow in extensive woods, on the higher parts of the island, where the vine will not thrive. Wheat and barley are likewise sown, especially in spots where the vines are decaying through age, or where they are newly planted. But the crops do not produce above three months provisions, and the inhabitants are therefore obliged to have recourse to other food, besides importing considerable quantities of corn from North-America in exchange for wine. The want of manure, and the inactivity of the people, are in some measure the causes of this disadvantage; but supposing husbandry to be carried to its perfection here, I believe they could not raise corn sufficient for their consumption. They make their threshing-floors of a circular form, in a corner of the field, which is cleared and beaten solid for the purpose. The sheaves are laid round about it, and a square board stuck full of sharp flints below, is dragged over them by a pair of oxen, the driver getting on it to encrease its weight. This machine cuts the straw as if it had been chopped, and frees the grain from the husk, from which it is afterwards separated.

The great produce of Madeira is the wine, from which it has acquired fame and support. Where the soil, exposure, and supply of water will admit of it, the vine is cultivated. One or more walks, about a yard or two wide, intersect each vineyard, and are included by stone-walls two feet high. Along these walks, which are arched over with laths about seven feet high, they erect wooden pillars at regular distances, to support a lattice-work of bamboos, which slopes down from both sides of the walk, till it is only a foot and a half or two feet high, in which elevation it extends over the whole vineyard. The vines are in this manner supported from the ground, and the people have room to root out the weeds which spring up between them. In the season of the vintage they creep under this lattice-work, cut off the grapes, and lay them into baskets: some bunches of these grapes I saw, which weighed six pounds and upwards. This method of keeping the ground clean and moist, and ripening the grapes in the shade, contributes to give the Madeira wines that excellent flavour and body for which they are remarkable. The owners of vineyards are however obliged to allot a certain spot of ground for the growth of bamboos; for the lattice-work cannot be made without them; and I was told some vineyards lay quite neglected for want of this useful reed.

The wines are not all of equal goodness, and consequently of different prices. The best, made of a vine imported from Candia, by order of the Infante of Portugal, Don Henry, is called Madeira Malmsey, a pipe of which cannot be bought on the spot for less than 40 or 42 l. sterling. It is an exceeding rich sweet wine, and is only made in a small quantity. The next sort is a dry wine, such as is exported for the London market, at 30 or 31 l. sterling the pipe. Inferior sorts for the East India, West India, and North-American markets, fell at 28, 25, and 20 l. sterling. About thirty thousand pipes, upon a mean, are made every year, each containing one hundred and ten gallons. About thirteen thousand pipes of the better sorts are exported, and all the rest is made into brandy for the Brazils, converted into vinegar, or consumed at home.

The enclosures of the vineyards consist of walls, and hedges of prickly pear, pomegranates, myrtles, brambles, and wild roses. The gardens produce peaches, apricots, quinces, apples, pears, walnuts, chesnuts, and many other European fruits; together with now and then some tropical plants, such as bananas, goavas, and pine-apples.

All the common domestic animals of Europe are like wise found at Madeira; and their mutton and beef, though small, is very well tasted. Their horses are small, but sure-footed; and with great agility climb the difficult paths, which are the only means of communication in the country. They have no wheel-carriages of any kind; but in the town they use a sort of drays or sledges, formed of two pieces of plank joined by cross pieces, which make an acute angle before; these are drawn by oxen, and are used to transport casks of wine, and other heavy goods, to and from the warehouses.

The animals of the feathered tribe, which live wild here, are more numerous than the wild quadrupeds; there being only the common grey rabbet here, as a representative of the last-mentioned class. We observed the sparrow-hawk, ( falco nisus); several crows, ( corvus corone); magpies, ( corvus pica); sky and wood-larks, ( alauda arvensis, & arborea); starlings, ( sturnus vulgaris); yellow hammers, ( emberiza citrinella); common and mountain sparrows, ( fringilla domestica & montana); yellow wagtails and robin redbreasts, ( motacilla flava & rubecula); and wild pigeons, of which we could not determine the species. We likewise saw the house-swallow and swift, ( hirundo rustica & apus); and some gentlemen of the British factory assured us they had also seen the martin, ( h. urbica). This last genus of birds lives here all the winter, and only disappears for a few days in very cold weather, retiring to clifts and crevices of the rocks, and returning on the first fair sunny day. The red-legged partridge, ( tetrao rufus), is likewise common in the interior parts of the isle, where it is not much disturbed. In Mr. Loughnan's aviary I saw waxbills, ( loxia astrild), chaffinches, goldfinches, yellowfinches, and canary-birds, ( fringilla coelebs, carduelis, butyracea, & canaria); all of which had been caught upon this island. Tame birds, such as turkies, geese, ducks, and hens, are very rare, which is perhaps owing to the scarcity of corn.

There are no snakes whatsoever in Madeira; but all the houses, vineyards, and gardens swarm with lizards. The friars of one of the convents complained, that these vermin destroyed the fruit in their garden; they had therefore placed a brass kettle in the ground to catch them, as they are constantly running about in quest of food. In this manner they daily caught hundreds, which could not get out on account of the smooth sides of the kettle, but were forced to perish.

The shores of Madeira, and of the neighbouring Salvages and Desertas, are not without fish; but as they are not in plenty enough for the rigid observance of Lent, pickled herrings are brought from Gothenburg in English bottoms, and salted cod from New-York and other American ports, to supply the deficiency.

We found a few insects here, and might perhaps have collected more, if our stay had been of longer duration; those we met with were of known sorts, and in no great variety. On this occasion I shall mention a general remark, which ought to be applied to all the islands we have touched at during the course of our voyage. Quadrupeds, amphibious reptiles, and insects, are not numerous in islands, at some distance from a continent, and the first are not to be met with at all, unless they were formerly transported thither by men. Fishes and birds, which are able to pass through water or air, are more frequent, and in greater variety. Continents, on the other hand, are rich in the above-mentioned classes of animals, as well as in those of birds and fishes, which are more universal. Africa, which we visited during this voyage, in a few weeks supplied us with a great variety of quadrupeds, reptiles, and insects, whilst all the other lands where we touched, afforded no new discoveries in those classes.

CHAP. II.

The Passage from Madeira to the Cape Verd Islands, and from thence to the Cape of Good Hope.

[1772. August.]LATE in the evening on the first of August, we got under sail, in company with the Adventure. A North-east wind forwarded our course so well, that we got sight [Tuesday 4.]of Palma on the fourth, early in the morning. This island is one of the group now called the Canaries, known to the ancients by the name of Insulӕ Fortunatœ, one of them being already at that time distinguished by the name of Canaria [12] It is probable that not only the Canaries, but likewise Madeira, and Porto-Santo were known to the ancients; a circumstance from which it is possible to reconcile their various accounts of the number of these islands. See Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. vi. cap. 37. The description given of them by ancient writers, agree with the modern accounts. See Vossius in Pompon, Melam. ad cap. x. v. 20. Ex iisdem quoque insulis cinnabaris Romam advehebatur. Sane hodie etiamnum frequens est in insulis fortunatis arbor illa quӕ cinnabarin gignit. Vulgo Sanguinem Draconis appellant. - We have Pliny's testimony, lib. vi. cap. 36. that Juba, the Mauritanian king, dyed purple in some of these isles, opposite to the Autololes in Africa. . They were entirely forgotten in Europe, till towards the end of the fourteenth century, when the spirit of navigation and discovery was revived. Some adventurers then found them again, and the Biscayans landed on Lanzarota, and carried off one hundred and seventy of the natives. Luis de la Cerda, a Spanish nobleman of the royal family of Castile, in consequence of a bull from the Pope, in the year 1344, assumed the title of Prince of the Fortunate Islands, but never went to take possession of his estates. Lastly, John, Baron de Bethencourt of Normandy, visited these islands again in the year 1402, took possession of several, and called himself King of the Canaries. His nephew ceded his claims upon them to Don Henry, Infante of Portugal; but they were afterwards left to the Spaniards, who now possess them.

[Wednesday 5.]The next day at five o'clock in the morning, we passed the isle of Ferro, remarkable only from this circumstance, that several geographers have reckoned their first meridian from its westermost extremity. The same day, being in about 27 deg. N. latitude, we observed several flying fishes, pursued by bonitos and dolphins, rising out of the water in order to escape from them. They were flying in all directions, and not against the wind only, as Mr. Kalm seems to think. Neither did they confine themselves to a strait-lined course, but frequently were seen to describe a curve. When they met the top of a wave as they skimmed along the surface of the ocean, they passed through, and continued their flight beyond it. From this time, till we left the torrid zone, we were almost daily amused with the view of immense shoals of these fishes, and now and then caught one upon our decks when it had unfortunately taken its flight too far, and was spent by its too great elevation above the surface of the sea. In the uniform life which we led between the tropics, where we found weather, wind, and sea, almost constantly favourable and agreeable, the mind catched at every little circumstance that could give the hint to a reflection. When we saw the most beautiful fishes of the sea, the dolphin and bonito, in pursuit of the flying fish, and when these forsook their native element to seek for shelter in air, the application to human nature was obvious. What empire is not like a tumultuous ocean, where the great in all the magnificence and pomp of power, continually persecute and contrive the destruction of the defenceless? - Sometimes we saw this picture continued still farther, when the poor fugitives met with another set of enemies in the air, and became the prey of birds [13] Boobies ( pelecanus piscator); men of war birds ( p. aquilus); and, tropic birds ( phaethon ӕthereus). , by endeavouring to escape the jaws of fishes.

[Saturday 8.]On the 8th we observed the sea to be of a whitish colour, and tried for soundings, but found none with fifty fathoms of line. In the evening we crossed the tropic of cancer. About this time, the captain ordered the ship to be fumigated with gunpowder and vinegar, having taken notice that all our books, and utensils became covered with mould, and all our iron and steel though ever so little exposed, began to rust. Nothing is more probable than that the vapours, which now filled the air, contained some saline particles, since moisture alone does not appear to produce such an effect [14] This opinion is very judiciously discussed by Ellis, in his voyage to Hudson's Bay. . If it be asked how any saline particles, generally so much heavier than the aqueous, can be raised in vapours, I leave it to the philosophers to determine, whether the numerous animal parts which daily putrefy in the ocean, do not supply enough of the volatile alkali, by the assistance of which the above phӕnomenon might be explained. The great heat between the tropics seems to volatilise the marine acid contained in the brine and common salt: for it has been observed, that on rags dipped in a solution of any one of the alkalies, and suspended over one of the pans where brine is evaporated and salt is prepared, crystals are soon formed of a neutral salt, compounded of the marine acid and the alkali in which the rags had been immersed; hence perhaps we may be allowed to infer, that the marine acid is by the heat of the tropical sun volatilised, and in that aërial or vaporous form attacks the surface of iron and steel; nay, this little quantity of acid may perhaps, imbibed by the lungs, and pores of the skin, become salutary; in the first case to people under pulmonary diseases; and in the second by gently bracing the habit of bodies relaxed by a tropical heat, and moderating the too violent perspiration.

The inspissated essence of beer, of which we had several casks on board, was observed to be in motion before we left Madeira, and now began to burst the casks and run out. The captain ordering it to be brought on deck, its fermentation was encreased by the addition of fresh air, and several of the casks had their heads forced out by the fermenting liquor, with an explosion like that of a fowling-piece. A kind of vapour, like smoke, always preceded the eruption. A vessel, strongly fumigated with sulphur, was, by my father's advice, filled with this essence, by which means the fermentation was stopped for a few days, but returned afterwards, especially in casks exposed to the free access of air. Some casks, which had been buried in the ballast-shingle, were preserved and prevented from bursting. Perhaps the admixture of double-distilled spirit, might have hindered the progress of fermentation in this essence. The beer made of it, by the simple addition of warm water, was very good and palatable, though it had a little empyreumatic taste, caused by the inspissation.

[Tuesday 11.]August the 11th we discovered Bonavista, one of the Cape-Verd islands. The next morning, the weather cleared up, after a shower of rain, and presented to our sight the isle of Mayo. About noon we approached the isle of San Jago, and anchored at three o'clock in the afternoon in Porto-Praya.

[Thursday 13.]Early the next morning, we went on shore, and visited the commandant of the fort, Don Joseph de Sylva, a good-natured man, who spoke the French imperfectly, and introduced us to the governor-general of the Cape-Verd islands. This gentleman, whose name was Don Joachim Salama Saldanha de Lobos, commonly resides at St. Jago, the capital of the island; but as he was very sickly, which his complexion witnessed for him, he had retired hither about two months ago, where the air is reckoned more salubrious. He occupied the apartments of the commandant, who was now obliged to dwell in a wretched cottage, and who gave us some information relative to these islands.

In 1449, Antonio Nolli, probably by others named Antoniotto, a Genoese in the service of Don Henry, Infante of Portugal, discovered some of the Cape-Verd islands, and on the first of May landed on one of them, which had its name from thence. St. Jago was seen at the same time. In 1460, another voyage was undertaken in order to settle them; and on this occasion the remaining islands were likewise discovered. San Jago is the greatest of them, and about seventeen leagues in length. The capital, of the same name, lies in the interior parts of the country, and is the see of the bishop of all the Cape-Verd islands. This isle is divided into eleven parishes, and the most populous of these contains about four thousand houses, so that it is but very thinly inhabited.

Porto-Praya stands on a steep rock, to which we climbed by a serpentine path. Its fortifications are old decayed walls on the sea side, and fences, scarce breast-high, made of loose stones, towards the land. A small church is inclosed within these walls, towards the sea; but, besides it, there are only a few cottages. A tolerable building, at a little distance from the fort, belongs to a company of merchants at Lisbon who have the exclusive right to trade to all the Cape-Verd islands, and keep an agent here for that purpose. When we made application to this indolent Don, by the Governor's direction, to be supplied with live cattle, he indeed promised to furnish as many as we wanted, but we never got more than a single lean bullock. The company perfectly tyrannizes over the inhabitants, and sells them wretched merchandize at exorbitant prices.

The natives of St. Jago are few in number, of a middle stature, ugly, and almost perfectly black, with frizzled woolly hair, and thick lips, like the most ill-looking kind of negroes. The ingenious and very learned Canon Pauw, at Xanten, in his Recherches Philosophiques fur les Americains, vol. I. p. 186. seems to take it for granted, that they are the descendants of the first Portuguese settlers, gradually degenerated through nine generations (three hundred years) to their present hue, which we found darker than he describes it. But whether, according to his and the Abbé de Manet's [15] See his Nouvelle Histoire de l'Afrique Françoise, enrichie de Cartes, &c. a Paris, 1767, 12mo. vol. II, p. 224. opinion, this change of complexion was effected merely by the heat of the torrid zone, or whether they have acquired their sable colour by intermarriages with negroes from the adjacent coast of Africa, is a question which I do not venture to decide, though so able and judicious an investigator of nature as Count Buffon, asserts, that " the colours of the human species depend principally on the climate." See Histoire Naturelle, in 12mo, vol. VI. p. 260. At present there are very few white people among them, and I believe we did not see above five or six, including the governor, commandant, and company's agent. In some of the islands, even the governors and priests are taken from among the blacks. The better sort of them wear ragged European cloaths, which they have obtained by barter from ships that touched here, previous to the establishment of the monopolizing company. The rest content themselves with a few separate articles of dress, either a shirt, or a waistcoat, or a pair of breeches, or a hat; and seem to be well pleased with their own appearance. The women are ugly, and wear a long strip of striped cotton over the shoulders, hanging down to the knees before and behind; but children are perfectly naked till the age of puberty. Despotic governors, bigotted priests, and indolence on the part of the court of Lisbon, will always keep these people in a wretched situation, beneath that of any community of negroes in Africa, and prevent them from increasing their numbers, which are the real wealth of a nation. It is natural for people whose solids are relaxed in a fervid climate, to incline to sloth and laziness; but they are confirmed in these vices, and must become indifferent to improvement, when they know the attempt would only make their situation more irksome. With a kind of gloomy insensibility they give themselves up to beggary, the only state which can protect them from the greedy clutches of tyrannical masters; and they shun every labour, which must encrease the treasures of others without benefit to themselves; and which only breaks in upon those hours of rest, that are now the solace of their precarious condition. Such clouded prospects, that never admit a gleam of happiness, cannot be incitements to marriage, and the difficulty of supporting a wretched existence, is a sufficient reason to decline the cares annexed to the relation of parents. Let us add to this, that the dry soil, whose fertility depends on the stated return of annual rains, is parched up whenever a drought takes place; all vegetation is then destroyed, and an inevitable famine succeeds. It may be reasonably supposed, that the experience of such fatal periods, deters the inhabitants from indulging in the sweets of conjugal connections, when they must apprehend that misery, and perhaps the horrors of slavery, await their unhappy offspring [16] On our return to the Cape of Good Hope, in 1775, we were told of a general famine which had happened in the Cape-Verd islands in 1773 and 1774, and which had risen to such a height that hundreds of people had perished for want. The commander of a Dutch ship, which touched at St. Jago during this distressful season, received several of the natives, with their wives and children, who sold themselves to him, in order to escape the dreadful consequences of want. He carried them to the Cape of Good Hope, and sold them; but when the Government there was informed of it, he was ordered to redeem them at his own expence, to carry them back to their native country, and to bring a certificate from the Portuguese governor, importing the execution of these orders. .

The Cape-Verd islands in general are mountainous, but their lower hills which are covered with a fine verdure, have a very gentle declivity, and extensive vallies run between them. They are ill supplied with water, which in many of them is only found in pits or wells. St. Jago has, however, a tolerable river running into the sea at Ribiera Grande, a town which takes its name from thence. At Porto-Praya there was only a single well set round with loose stones, and containing muddy brackish water, in such small quantities, that we drew it quite dry twice a day. The valley by the side of the fort seems to have some moisture, and is planted here and there with cocoa-nut-palms, sugar-canes, bananas, cotton, goava, and papaw-trees; but the greatest part of it is over-run with various sorts of brushwood, and another is left for pastures.

We may perhaps conclude from hence, that the Cape-Verd islands in the hands of an active, enterprising, or commercial nation, would become interesting and useful, and might be cultivated to the greatest advantage. The cochineal-plant, indigo, some spices, and perhaps coffee, would thrive particularly well in this hot and parched climate; and these productions would be sufficient to supply the natives not only with the necessaries, but likewise with the conveniences and luxuries of life, under the benign influence of a free and equal government, like that under which we have the happiness to live in this country. Instead of feeding on a scanty allowance of roots, we should see their board heaped with plenty, and convenient houses would then supply the place of wretched hovels.

Some of the lower hills were dry and barren, scarce any plants growing upon them; but others had still some verdure on them, though we were now at the end of the dry season. They are all covered with abundance of stones, which appear to have been burnt, and are a species of lava. The foil, which is fertile enough in the vallies, is a kind of rubbish of cinders, and ochreous ashes; and the rocks on the sea-shore are likewise black and burnt. It is therefore probably, that this island has undergone a change from volcanic eruptions; and it will not be deemed unreasonable to form the same opinion of all the Cape-Verd islands, when we consider that one of them, the island of Fuogo, still consists of a burning mountain. The interior mountains of the country are lofty, and some of them appear steep and craggy, being perhaps of a more ancient date than the volcanic parts which we could examine.

In the evening we returned on board; but as the surf ran considerably higher than at our landing, we were obliged to strip in order to wade to our boats, which our best swimmers had loaded with water-casks, and such refreshments as could be purchased on shore; not without some danger of being hurt by sharks, which are numerous in the harbour. The captains, astronomers, and masters, had spent this day in making astronomical observations upon the little islet in the harbour, named Ilha dos Codornizes or Quail island, from the birds which are in great plenty upon it. The commandant of the fort informed us, that the officers of a French frigate had likewise made astronomical observations on this identical spot some time ago, having several watches of a new construction on board [17] This was the Isis frigate, commanded by M. de Fleurieu, on board of which was M. Pingrè, with several time-keepers. A journal of the voyage and observations made in that ship, has since been published in 2 vols. quarto. .

[Friday 14.]The next day captain Cook invited the governor-general, and the commandant to dinner, and we staid on board, in order to act as interpreters on this occasion. The captain sent them his own boat; but when it came on shore, the governor begged to be excused, because he was always affected with sickness on board any vessel, whether at sea or in harbour. The commandant promised to come, but having at first neglected to ask the governor's leave, the latter retired to take his siesta (or afternoon's repose) and no one ventured to disturb him.

The extreme scarcity of refreshments made our stay at Porto-Praya very short. We were therefore obliged to content ourselves with a few casks of brackish water, a single bullock, a few long-legged goats, with strait horns and pendulous ears, some lean hogs, turkies, and fowls, and a few hundreds of unripe oranges, and indifferent bananas. The researches we had made the preceding day, furnished us with a few tropical plants, mostly of known species, with some new kinds of insects and of fish. We also observed several sorts of birds, and among them guinea-hens, which seldom fly, but run very swiftly, and which, when old, are very tough and dry eating. Quails and red-legged partridges are likewise common, according to the report of the natives, though we did not see any; but the most remarkable bird we found is a species of Kingfisher [18] The same species is found in Arabia Felix; vide Forskal Fauna Arabica; as also in Abyssinia, as appears from the elegant and valuble drawings of James Bruce, Esq. , because it feeds on large land-crabs of a blue and red colour, whose numerous habitations are round and deep holes in the dry and parched soil. Our sailors, who catch at every thing that may afford them diversion, purchased about fifteen or twenty monkies, known by the name of St. Jago, or green monkies ( simia sabœa); which were a little bigger than cats, and of a greenish-brown colour, with black faces and paws. On each side of their mouth, they had a kind of pouch (like many others of the monkey tribe) which the English in the West-Indian colonies, call by their Spanish name alforjes. The antic tricks of these little monkies were amusing for some days, while their novelty lasted; but they soon became insipid companions, were neglected, sometimes cruelly bandied about the vessel, and starved to death for want of fresh food, so that only three of them reached the Cape of Good Hope. A harmless race of animals, dragged from the happy recess of native shades, to wear out the rest of their lives in continual anguish and torment, deserve a pitying remembrance, though humanity would fain have drawn the veil of all acts of iron-hearted insensibility, and wanton barbarism.

We got under sail in the evening and steered to the southward, having mild weather with frequent showers of rain on the following days, and the wind blowing from N.E. by N. to N.N.E. [Sunday 16.]On the 16th, at eight o'clock in the evening, we saw a luminous fiery meteor, of an oblong shape and blueish colour, and having a very quick descending motion: its course was N.W. and it disappeared in the horizon after a momentary duration. Our distance from St. Jago was fifty-five leagues at noon, notwithstanding which, we saw a swallow following our vessel, and making numberless circles round it. The necessary manoeuvres of trimming the sails, in the evening disturbed it from its roost on one of the gun-ports, upon which it took shelter in the carved work of the stern. [Tuesday 18.]The two following days it continued to attend the ship on her course. During this time we observed many bonitos in the sea around us, which frequently shot past us with great velocity; but notwithstanding our endeavours to catch them with hooks, and strike them with harpoons, we could not take a single one. The crew were more successful in hooking a shark of about five feet in length. Its common attendants, the pilot-fish ( gasterosteus ductor) and sucking-fish ( echeneis remora), likewise appeared with it; but with this difference, that the former carefully avoided being caught; and swam about very nimbly; but the latter stuck so fast to the shark's body, that four of them were hauled on deck with it. We dined on part of the shark the next day, and found it a tolerable food when fried, but rather of difficult digestion on account of its fat.

[Thursday 20.]Two days after, Henry Smock, one of the carpenter's crew, being employed on the sides of the ship, was suddenly missed, and probably had fallen over-board and was drowned. His good-natured character, and a kind of serious turn of mind caused him to be regretted even among his shipmates, and must embitter his loss to those, whom the tender ties of parental or conjugal affection had united to him. Humanity stole a tear from each feeling traveller, the tribute due to a rational fellow creature of a gentle and amiable disposition.

[Friday 21.]We had frequent showers after leaving St. Jago, and experienced a remarkable heavy fall of rain on the 21st, during which we caught up seven puncheons of fresh water in our spread awnings. This supply, though we were not distressed for want of it, was however very seasonable, inasmuch as we were now enabled to give large allowance of this necessary element to the crew. Captain Cook's remark deduced from long experience, that abundance of fresh water contributes to the preservation of health in long voyages, is extremely judicious, and seems to be founded on the known principles of physiology. If seamen have plenty of water to drink, and some to wash themselves and their linen, this essential precaution will in a great measure prevent the sea-scurvy from gaining ground among them. Their blood is diluted, and the waste of fluids caused by profuse perspiration in hot climates, is restored by plentiful drinking, and the insensible perspiration likewise goes on without a check, when the people frequently shift their linen, and wash off any uncleanliness that may obstruct the pores. It is evident that the greatest danger of putrid distempers is thus precluded; since the reimbibing of perspired matter, and the violence of perspiration without a fresh supply to temper and dilute the saline and caustic quality of the remaining fluids, (which are often supposed to be the causes of inflammatory fevers) are both in a great measure prevented.

The heavy rains of this morning, entirely soaked the plumage of the poor swallow, which had accompanied us for several days past; it was obliged therefore to settle on the railing of the quarter-deck, and suffered itself to be caught. I dried it, and when it was recovered, let it fly about in the steerage, where, far from repining at its confinement, it immediately began to feed upon the flies, which were numerous there. At dinner we opened the windows, and the swallow retook its liberty; but about six in the evening, it returned into the steerage and cabin, being sensible that we intended it no harm. Having taken another repast of flies, it went out again, and roosted that night somewhere on the outside of the vessel. Early the next morning our swallow returned into the cabin once more, and took its breakfast of flies. Emboldened by the shelter which we afforded it, and the little disturbance it suffered from us, the poor little bird now ventured to enter the ship at every port and scuttle which was open; some parts of the morning it passed very happily in Mr. Wales's cabin; but after having left that it entirely disappeared. It is more than probable that it came into the birth of some unfeeling person, who caught it in order to provide a meal for a favourite cat.

From the history of this bird, which was of the common species, or a house-swallow ( hirundo rustica Lin.) we may deduce the circumstances that bring solitary land-birds a great way out to sea. It seems to be probable, that they begin with following a ship, from the time she leaves the land; that they are soon lost in the great ocean, and are thus obliged to continue close to the ship, as the only solid mass in this immense fluid expanse. If two or more ships are in company, it is also easy to account for the expression of meeting with land-birds at a great distance from land; because they may happen to follow some other ship from the shore, than that which carries the observer; thus they may escape observation for a day or two, or perhaps longer, and when noticed, are supposed to be met with at sea. However, great storms are sometimes known to have driven single birds, nay vast flocks out to sea, which are obliged to seek for rest on board of ships, at considerable distances from any land [19] Captain Cook very obligingly communicated to me a fact which confirms the above assertion. Being on board of a ship between Norway and England, he met with a violent storm, during which a flight of several hundred birds covered the whole rigging of the ship. Among numbers of small birds, he observed several hawks, which lived very luxuriously by preying on those poor defenceless creatures. . I shall venture another reflection on this incident. In the long solitary hours of an uniform navigation, every little circumstance becomes interesting to the passenger; it is therefore not to be wondered at, if a subject so trifling in itself as putting to death a harmless bird, should affect a heart not yet buffeted into insensibility.

[Sunday 23.]On the 23d, several ceraceous fish, from fifteen to twenty feet long passed the ship, directing their course to the N. and N.W. They were supposed to be grampusses, ( delphinus orca). [Tuesday 25.]Two days after the same kind of fish, and a number of lesser ones of a brownish colour, called skip-jacks, from leaping frequently out of the water, were observed. The wind for several days past had blown from the N.W. and obliged us to take a S.E. course, so that we were now got to the southward of the coast of Guinea. Several of our navigators, who had frequently crossed the Atlantic, looked upon this as a singular circumstance; and indeed it fairly proves, that though nature in the torrid zone commonly produces regular and constant winds, nevertheless it sometimes deviates even there from general rules, and admits of several exceptions. In this situation we also observed several man-of-war birds, ( pelecanus aquilus). It is a common belief among sailors that their appearance denotes a vicinity of land; but we were at present above a hundred leagues from any shore, so that this opinion seems to have no better support than many old prejudices. Each eradication of one of these is a gain to science; and each vulgar opinion, proved to be erroneous, is an approximation to truth, which alone is worthy of being recorded for the use of mankind.

[1772. September.][Tuesday 1.]On the first of September, several dolphins, ( coryphœna hippurus), were seen; and we likewise took notice of a large fish close to us, perfectly resembling the figure of a fish given in Willoughby's Histor. Piscium, appendix pag. 5. tab. 9. f. 3. which is taken from John Nieuhoff's account, and which the Dutch call zee-duyvel, or sea-devil. In its external shape it was similar to the genus of rays, but seems to be a new species; from whence it is evident, that even in the most frequented seas, such as the Atlantic, many new discoveries in natural history might be made, if those who can distinguish unknown from known objects, had always opportunities of enquiring into them.

[Thursday 3.]On the third of September great numbers of flying-fishes were observed, and a bonito ( scomber pelamys) was caught, whose meat we found to be dry and less palatable than it is generally represented. [Saturday 5.]We were lucky enough two days after to take a dolphin ( coryphœna hippurus), which is likewise dry meat; but the inimitable brightness of its colours, which continually change from one rich hue to another whilst it is drying, is, in my opinion, one of the most admirable appearances which can occur to the voyager's view during a tropical navigation.

But here description clouds each shining ray;

What terms of art can Nature's pow'rs display? Falconer.

A boat was this day hoisted out in order to find the direction of the current, and to determine the temperature of the sea-water at a great depth. We sounded with 250 fathoms without finding any bottom. The thermometer in the air stood at 75 1/2 deg. dipped under the surface of the sea it shewed 74 deg. and after being let down to the depth of 85 fathoms and hauled up again, it was fallen to 66 deg. It staid 30' under water, and was 27 1/2° in hawling up. Our latitude at noon was 0° 52' north. The boat being out, we had an opportunity of examining that kind of blubber, or sea-nettle, which Linnӕus has named medusa pelagica; together with another submarine animal called doris lœvis, and employed ourselves in making drawings of them, and more minute descriptions than have hitherto been published.

[Wednesday 9.]On the 9th, having passed the line with a light air, our crew ducked such of their shipmates as had never crossed it before, and did not care to redeem themselves by paying a certain forfeit of brandy. Those who had been obliged to undergo the briny submersion, changed their linen and clothes; and as this can never be done too often, especially in warm weather, the ducking proved a salutary operation to them. The quantity of strong liquors, arising from the forfeits of the rest, served to heighten the jovial humour, which is the predominant characteristic of sailors. This day we likewise obtained a southerly wind, which gradually came round to S. by E. and S.S.E. and settled into the usual trade-wind.

[Monday 14.]This day we caught several dolphins, and a flying-fish one foot long fell on the quarter-deck. Ever since the 8th we had daily observed several aquatic birds, such as man of war birds, boobies ( pelecanus aquilus & sula) petrels, gulls, and tropic-birds ( phaëton œthereus). We had also at various intervals, found the sea covered with animal belonging to the class of mollusca, one of which, of a blue colour, in shape like a snail, with four arms, divided into many branches, was named glaucus atlanticus; another, transparent like a crystal, and often connected in a long string with individuals of the same species, was referred to the genus named dagysa, mentioned in Lieut. Cook's voyage in the Endeavour [20] See Hawkesworth's compilation, vol. II. p. 2. . Two other species of mollusca, which seamen call sallee, and Portuguese men of war, ( medusa velella & holothuria physalis) likewise appeared about our vessel in great abundance.

[Sunday 27.]On the 27th we tried the direction of the currents, and the temperature of the sea again, with nearly the same result as before. The thermometer, which in open air flood at 72 1/2 deg. and under the surface of the sea at 70 deg. after being let down 80 fathom, sunk to 68 deg. It continued 15 min. under water, and was hauled up in 7 min. We likewise took up a new species of the blubber ( medusa). For two days past, we had observed a bird, which we were this day enabled to examine, when we knew it to be the common shear-water ( procellaria puffinus). Having now reached the latitude of twenty-five degrees south, we found the wind gradually coming round from E. by S. to E. by N. and to N.E. which enabled us to steer to the south-eastward. Our bodies, which the heat of the torrid zone had in a great degree relaxed, now began to feel a considerable alteration in the climate, and though the thermometer was not above ten degrees different from what it used to be near the line, yet I contracted a violent cold, attended with the tooth-ach, swelled gums, and cheeks.

[1772. October.][Sunday 4.]On the fourth of October, we observed great numbers of the common little petrel, of a sooty brown, with white rumps ( procellaria pelagica), and found the air cold and sharp. The next day the albatross, ( diomedea exulans) and the pintadas ( procellaria capensis), made their first appearance.

[Sunday 11.]On the 11th it was mild and almost calm, after several days of hazy and squally weather, which had probably sharpened the appetite of the sea birds, and especially the pintadas; for these last eagerly swallowed hooks baited with pieces of pork or mutton, and no less than eight of them were caught in a short time. In the evening we observed an eclipse of the moon, of which the end at a medium happened at 6h. 58' 45'' p. m. our latitude at noon being 34° 45' south.

The next day we tried the current and the temperature of the sea a third time. We let down the thermometer 100 fathoms, where it continued 20 min. was hauled up in 7 min. more, and then shewed 58 deg. At the surface it stood at 59 deg. and in the air at 60 deg. It being calm, we employed ourselves in the boat with shooting sea-fowl; among which were a small tern, a shear-water, a new species of albatross, and a new petrel: Several animals of the mullusca-tribe likewise came within our reach, together with the helix janthina, a violet-coloured shell, remarkable for the extreme thinness of its texture, which breaks with the least pressure, and seems therefore entirely calculated to keep the open sea, or at least to shun rocky shores [21] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 14. We find another remark at the end of that above quoted, which is of very different value, and seems to indicate that the ancient authors were not consulted. Whoever has looked into Pliny, can never have the least idea that the thin shell afore-mentioned could be " the purpura of the ancients." They had several kinds of shells, which yielded the purple dye, but these were all rock-shells. Earum genera plura, pabulo et solo disoreta, lib. ix. cap. 61. Exquiruntur omnes scopuli gœtuli muricibus ac purpuris, lib. v. cap. I. It is equally clear and uncontrovertible that the figure and hardness of their purple shells were very different from those of the little helix janthina. Purpura vocatur, cuniculatim procurrente rostro et cuniculi latere introrsus tubulato qua proferatur lingua , lib. ix. cap. 61 - Lingua purpurœ longitudine digitalis quӕ pascitur, perforando reliqua conchylia, tanta duritia aculeo est, lib. ix. cap. 60 - Prœterea clavatum est ad turbinem usque aculeis in orbem septenis sere, lib. ix. cap. 61. Don Antonio Ulloa, in his voyage to South-America, book IV. chap. 8. may be consulted on the subject. , agreeably to the observation in Lieutenant Cook's voyage in the Endeavour. Albatrosses, pintadas, and petrels of all kinds, amongst which was also the fulmar, ( procellaria glacialis), were now daily observed.

On the 17th, we had an alarm that one of our crew was overboard, upon which we immediately put about, but seeing nothing, the names of all persons on board the vessel were called over, and none found missing, to our great satisfaction. Our friends on board the Adventure, whom we visited a few days after, told us they had indeed suspected by our manoeuvre, the accident which we had apprehended, but that looking out on the sea, Capt. Furneaux had plainly observed a sea-lion, that had been the cause of this false alarm.

[Monday 19.]On the 19th we had a great southern swell, and saw a large whale, and likewise a fish of the shark genus, of a whitish colour, with two dorsal-fins, and its length about eighteen or twenty feet. As we had been a considerable time at sea, the Captain had for some weeks past ordered sour-krout (or cabbage sliced and fermented) to be regularly served to the crew, at a pint per man on meat-days, which was four times a week. The Lords of the Admiralty, attentive to every circumstance which bids fair to preserve the health of seafaring men, had ordered a very considerable quantity of this salutary and palatable food to be put on board both of the ships, and the event has proved that it is one of the best prophylactics against the sea-scurvy.

[Saturday 24.]On the 24th, the Adventure being a great way astern, the captain ordered a boat to be hoisted out, and several officers and other gentlemen went a shooting, which gave us a fresh opportunity of examining the two sorts of albatrosses, and a large black species of shear-water, ( procellaria œquinoctialis). Our navigation, which for nine weeks past had been out of sight of any land, began to appear dull and tedious, and seemed to be distressing to many who were not used to an uniform recluse life on board a ship, without any refreshments or variety of scenes. We should have found this long passage equally disagreeable, if it had not supplied us with employment from time to time, and nursed the hope of making many interesting discoveries relative to the science of nature.

[Thursday 29.]On the 29th, early in the morning, we discovered the land of the extremity of Africa, covered with clouds and fog; and several gannets and small diving-petrels, together with some wild ducks, came out to sea from thence. Soon after the land disappeared entirely, and we could not see it again till three o'clock in the afternoon, when its parts were much plainer, though the clouds still involved them. The wind blowing fresh, and the Adventure being a great way a-stern, we could not venture to get into the Table bay during night, but stood off and on till the next morning, having thick squally weather, and heavy showers of rain.

The night was scarcely begun, when the water all round us afforded the most grand and astonishing sight than can be imagined. As far as we could see the whole ocean seemed to be in a blaze. Every breaking wave had its summit illuminated by a light similar to that of phosphorus, and the sides of the vessel, coming in contact with the sea, were strongly marked by a luminous line. Great bodies of light moved in the water along our side, sometimes slower, sometimes quicker; now in the same direction with our course, now flying off from it; sometimes we could clearly distinguish their shape to be that of fishes, which when they approached any smaller ones, forced these to hasten away from them. Desirous of enquiring into the cause of this astonishing phӕnomenon, we procured a bucket full of the illumined sea-water. The most accurate attention to it proved, that innumerable minute sparks, of a round shape, communicated this luminous appearance to the water, and moved about in it with great briskness and velocity. After the water had been standing for a little while, the number of sparks seemed to decrease; but on being stirred again, the whole became as luminous as before. Again, as the water gradually subsided the sparks were observed to move in directions contrary to the undulations of the water, which they did not before, whilst the agitation was more violent, and seemed to carry them along with its own motions. We suspended the bucket, to prevent its being too much affected by the motion of the ship; the bright objects by this means betrayed more and more a voluntary motion, independent of the agitation of the water caused by our hands, or by the rolling of the vessel. The luminous appearance always gradually subsided, but on the least agitation of the water, the sparkling was renewed, in proportion as the motion was encreased. As I stirred the water with my hand, one of the luminous sparks adhered to my finger. We examined it by the common magnifier of Mr. Ramsden's improved microscope, and found it to be globular, transparent like a gelatinous substance, and somewhat brownish: by the greatest magnifier we discovered the orifice of a little tube, which entered the body of this little atom, within which were four or five intestine bags connected with the tube. Having examined several of them, which had much the same appearance, I endeavoured to catch some in water, and bring them under the microscope in a concave glass, where its nature and organs might be better examined: but these minute objects were always hurt with our touch before we could place them in the concave g lass, and when dead only appeared as an indistinct mass of floating filaments. In about two hours time the water had lost its luminous appearance. We had another bucket full of it drawn before that time, but all our attempts to catch one of the little atoms in the glass proved ineffectual. Accordingly we hastened to draw the appearance of the first globule, and to write down our observations. The most probable conjecture which we could form concerning these little atomical animalcules was, that they might be the young fry of some species of medusa or blubber, though it may likewise be possible, that they are beings of a distinct genus.

There was a singularity, and a grandeur in the display of this phӕnomenon, which could not fail of giving occupation to the mind, and striking it with a reverential awe, due to Omnipotence. The ocean covered to a great extent, with myriads of animalcules; these little being, organized alive, endowed with locomotive power, a quality of shining whenever they please, of illiminating every body with which they come in contact, and of laying aside their luminous appearance at pleasure: all these ideas crouded upon us, and bade us admire the Creator, even in his minutest works. It is the natural fault of young people to think too well of mankind; but I hope I shall not have formed too favourable an opinion of my readers, if I expect that the generality will sympathize with me in these feelings, and that none will be found ignorant or depraved enough to despise them.

Turrigeros elephantorum miramur humeros, taurorumque colla et truces in sublimejactus, tigrium rapinas, leonum jubas; quum rerum natura nusquam magis, quam in minimis tota sit. Quapropter quӕso, ne nostra legentes, quoniam ex his spernent multa, etiam relata fastidio damnent, quum in contemplatione Naturӕ nihil possit videri vacaneum. Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. xi. cap. 2.

The next morning, after a very rainy night, we sailed into Table bay. The mountains at the bottom of it, now appeared clear of clouds, and surprised us with their prodigious craggy, steep, and barren appearance. As we advanced farther into the bay, we discovered the town at the foot of the black Table mountain, and soon came to an anchor. After saluting the fort, and receiving the visit of several officers in the service of the Dutch East-India company, we went on shore with captains Cook and Furneaux, being prepared to meet with many new acquisitions to science, on a continent so distant from our own, and situated in an opposite hemisphere.

CHAP. III.

Stay at the Cape of Good Hope. - Account of that Settlement.

[1772. October.]We were no sooner landed than we all went to wait upon the governor, baron Joachim van Plettenberg, a man of a very liberal education, and extensive knowledge, whose politeness and affability immediately gave us a good opinion of him. From him we proceeded to the other members of the council, and at last retired to take up our lodgings at Mr. Brand's now commander at False bay, whose house at the Cape town is commonly frequented by the English captains who happen to touch there. Almost every inferior officer of the Dutch Company's government, the members of the council excepted, let their supernumerary apartments to the officers and passengers in the various English, French, Danish, and Swedish ships, which annually put in here, either on their voyage from or back to Europe.

We were not a little pleased with the contrast between this colony, and the Portuguese island of St. Jago. There we had taken notice of a tropical country, with a tolerable appearance, and capable of improvement, but utterly neglected by its lazy and oppressed inhabitants; here, on the contrary, we saw a neat well-built town, all white, rising in the midst of a desart, surrounded by broken masses of black and dreary mountains; or in other words, the picture of successful industry. Its appearance towards the sea-side, is not quite so picturesque as that of Funchal. The store-houses of the Dutch East-India company, are all situated nearest the water, and the private buildings lie beyond them on a gentle ascent. The fort which commands the road, is on the east side of the town, but seems not to be of great strength; besides which, there are several batteries on both sides. The streets in the town are broad, and regular; all the principal ones are planted with oaks, and some have in their middle a canal of running water, which on account of its small quantity, they are obliged to husband by sluices, so that parts of it are sometimes entirely drained, and occasion no very pleasant smell. The national character of the Dutch strongly manifests itself in this particular; their settlements being always supplied with canals, though reason and common sense evidently prove their noxious influence on the health of the inhabitants, especially at Batavia.

Quanto prӕstantius esset

-viridi si margine clauderet undas

Herba, nec ingenuum violarent marmora tophum!

Juvenal

The houses are built of brick, and many of them are white washed on the outside. The rooms are in general lofty and spacious, and very airy, which the hot climate requires. There is but one church in the whole town, and that is extremely plain, and seems to be rather too small for the congregation. That spirit of toleration, which has been so beneficial to the Dutch government at home, is not to be met with in their colonies. It is but very lately that they have suffered even the Lutherans, to build churches at Batavia, and at this place; and at the present time, a clergyman of that persuasion is not tolerated at the Cape, but the inhabitants are obliged to content themselves with the chaplains of Danish and Swedish East-India-men, who give them a sermon, and administer the sacrament once or twice a year, and are very handsomely rewarded. The government, and the inhabitants do not give themselves the trouble to attend to a circumstance of so little consequence in their eyes, as the religion of their slaves, who in general seem to have none at all. A few of them follow the Mahommedan rite, and weekly meet in a private house belonging to a free Mahomedan, in order to read, or rather chaunt several prayers, and chapters of the Koran. As they have no priest among them, they cannot partake of any other acts of worship [22] We would not be understood to throw an odium on the Dutch in particular, when it is well known that the negroes, who wear the chains of the English and French, are equally neglected: it was only intended to awaken a fellow-feeling towards an unhappy race of men, among the colonists of all nations; and to remind them whilst they enjoy, or strive to enjoy the inestimable blessing of liberty, to exert themselves in acts of humanity and kindness, towards those from whom they with-hold it, perhaps, without remorse. .

The slaves belonging to the company, who amount to several hundreds, are lodged and boarded in a spacious house erected for that purpose, where they are likewise kept at work. Another great building serves as an hospital for the sailors belonging to the Dutch East-India ships, which touch here, and commonly have prodigious numbers of sick on board, on their voyage from Europe towards India. The vast number of men, sometimes six, seven, or eight hundred, which these ships carry out to supply the military in India, the small room to which they are confined, and the short allowance of water and salt provision, they receive on a long voyage through the torrid zone, generally make considerable havock among them: it is therefore no uncommon circumstance at the Cape, that a ship on her passage thither from Europe, loses eighty or a hundred men, and sends between two and three hundred others dangerously ill to the hospital. A fact no less deplorable than certain, is, that the small expence and facility with which the ziel-verkoopers actually carry on their infamous trade of supplying the India company with recruits, makes them less attentive to the preservation of health among these poor people. Nothing is more common, in this and other Dutch colonies, than to meet with soldiers in the company's service who, upon enquiry, acknowledge they have been kidnapped in Holland. There is an apothecary's shop belonging to the hospital, where the most necessary remedies are prepared, but no expensive drug is to be found in it, and the method of administering to all the patients indiscriminately out of two or three huge bottles, full of different preparations, suffice to convince us, that the fresh air of the land, and fresh provisions here, contribute much more to the recovery of the sick, than the skill of their physicians. Patients who are able to walk, are ordered to go up and down the streets every fair morning; and all kinds of greens, pot-herbs, sallads, and antiscorbutics are raised for their use in an adjacent garden belonging to the company. Travellers have sometimes praised and sometimes depreciated this garden, according to the different points of view in which it has been considered. It is true, a few regular walks of indifferent oaks, encompassed with elm and myrtle hedges, are not objects engaging enough to those who are used to admire the perfection of gardening in England, or who contemplate in Holland and France cypress, box, and yew trees cut out into vases, statues, and pyramids, or charmilles turned into pieces of architecture! [1772. November.]But considering that the trees were planted in the beginning of this century, more for use than ornament; that they shelter the kitchen-herbs for the hospital, against the destructive violence of storms; and that they form the only shady and airy walks, comfortable to voyagers and sick persons in this hot climate, I cannot wonder that some should extoll as " a delightful spot [23] Commodore (now admiral) Byron. See Hawkesworth's compilation, vol. I. ," what others contemptuously call " a friar's garden [24] M. de Bougainville. See his Voyage round the World. ."

[Saturday l.]The day after our arrival, the astronomers of both ships, Mr. Wales and Mr. Baily, fixed their instruments ashore, within a few yards of the identical spot where Messrs. Mason and Dixon had formerly made their astronomical observations. The same day we began our botanical excursions in the country about the town. The ground gradually rises on all sides towards the three mountains which lie round the bottom of the bay, keeping low and level only near the sea-side, and growing somewhat marshy in the isthmus between the False and Table bays, where a salt rivulet falls into the latter. The marshy part has some verdure, but is intermixed with a great deal of sand. The higher grounds, which from the sea side have a parched and dreary appearance, are however covered with an immense variety of plants, amongst which are a prodigious number of shrubs, but scarce one or two species that deserve the name of trees. There are also a few small plantations wherever a little run of water moistens the ground. Abundance of insects of every sort, several species of lizards, land-tortoises, and serpents frequent the dry shrubbery, together with a great variety of small birds. We daily brought home ample collections of vegetables and animals, and were much surprised to find a great number, especially among the latter, entirely unknown to natural historians, though gathered in fields adjacent to a town, from whence the cabinets and repositories of all Europe have been repeatedly supplied with numerous and valuable acquisitions to the science.

One of our excursions was directed to the Table mountain. The ascent was very steep, fatiguing, and difficult, on account of the number of loose stones which rolled away under our feet. About the middle of the mountain we entered a bold grand chasm, whose walls are perpendicular and often impending rocks, piled up in strata. Small rills of water oozed out of crevices, or fell from precipices in drops, given life to hundreds of plants and low shrubs in the chasm. Another kind of vegetables, growing on a drier soil, that seemed to concentrate their juices, spread a fine aromatic scent, which a gentle breeze wafted towards us from the chasm. At last, after three hours walk, we reached the summit of the mountain. It was nearly level, very barren, and bare of soil; several cavities were however replete with rain-water, or contained a little vegetable earth, from whence a few odoriferous plants drew their nourishment. Some antelopes, howling baboons, solitary vultures, and toads are sometimes to be met with on the mountain. The view from thence is very extensive and picturesque. The bay seemed a small pond or bason, and the ships in it dwindled to little boats: the town under our feet, and the regular compartments of its gardens, looked like the work of children. The Lion's Rump now seemed an inconsiderable ridge; we looked down on the spiry Lion's Head, and only Charles' Mount rose as it were in competition with the Table. To the northward, Robben island, the Blue hills, the Tyger hills, and beyond them a noble chain of mountains, loftier than that on which we stood, bounded our view. A group of broken rocky masses inclosed Hout baay (Wood bay) to the west, and continuing to the southward formed one side of the Table bay, and terminated in the famous stormy cape which king Manoel of Portugal named the Cape of Good Hope. To the south-east our view extended across the low isthmus between the two bays; beyond it we discerned the colony of Hottentot Holland, and the mountains about Stellenbosch; and on this side we were delighted with a number of plantations insulated by the vast heath, and finely contrasting their verdure with the rest of the country: Among them we distinguished Constantia, famous in the annals of modern epicures. After a stay of two hours, finding the air very cold and sharp on the mountain, we descended, very well pleased with our excursion, and amply rewarded for the toilsome part of it, by the beauty and extent of the prospect.

The country on the S.E. side of the Table mountain attracted our particular attention, on account of the number of plantations on the sloping grounds, and the variety of plants which that part produced. Its appearance, especially near the hills, is the pleasantest on this side of the isthmus. By the side of every little rivulet a plantation is situated, consisting of vineyards, corn-fields, and gardens, and commonly surrounded with oaks from ten to twenty feet high, which enlived the country, and afford shelter against storms. The late governor Tulbagh, who is looked upon as a father to this colony, rebuilt several houses and gardens here, for the use of the governors, at Rondebosch and Nieuw-land. They are plain, and have nothing particular to recommend them, but that they are kept in the best order, consist of shady walks, and are well supplied with water. The company's granges or sheds are also erected hereabouts; and a little farther on there is a brewery, belonging to a private man, who has the exclusive privilege of brewing beer for the Cape. In a fine valley, on the side of the mountain, lies the plantation called Paradise, remarkable for its delightful grove, and for producing several fruits, especially such as belong to tropical climates, which come to great perfection there. Alphen, the seat of Mr. Kerste, (at that time commander in False bay) was the boundary of our excursions on this side. We were here received with real hospitality, which our worthy host had brought from Germany, his native country. During a few days it was the centre of our botanical rambles, which always furnished us with an abundant harvest, and gave us the greatest apprehensions that with all our efforts, we alone would be unequal to the task of collecting, describing, drawing, and preserving (all at the same time) such multitudes of species, in countries where every one we gathered would in all probability be a non-descript. It was therefore of the utmost importance, if we meant not to neglect any branch of natural knowledge, to endeavour to find an assistant well qualified to go hand and hand with us in our undertakings. We were fortunate enough to meet with a man of science, Dr. Sparrman, at this place, who after studying under the father of botany, the great Sir Charles Linné, had made a voyage to China, and another to the Cape in pursuit of knowledge. The idea of gathering the treasures of nature in countries hitherto unknown to Europe, filled his mind so entirely, that he immediately engaged to accompany us on our circumnavigation; in the course of which, I am proud to say, we have found him an enthusiast in his science, well versed in medical knowledge, and endowed with a heart capable of the warmest feelings, and worthy of a philosopher. But far from meeting with such great discoveries in natural history, as had been made in Lieut. Cook's first voyage on a new continent [25] New Holland. , we were obliged to content ourselves with the produce of a few small islands, which we could imperfectly investigate in the short spaces of sometimes a few hours, or a few days, or to the utmost of a few weeks, in unfavourable seasons.

During our stay at the Cape, the people on board our ship set up the rigging, scrubbed and payed the sides, and took in store some brandy and other necessary articles of provision for the crew, together with several sheep for the captains and officers. Several rams and ewes were likewise brought aboard, intended as presents to the natives of the South-Sea; but the length of the voyage, and our run to the frozen zone, reduced them so much, that this useful purpose was entirely defeated. In order to pursue our researches after natural knowledge, with greater certainty of success, we likewise bought a water-spaniel here, in hopes that this animal would prove useful in fetching any game which fell out of our reach. It was with great difficulty we could meet with one, and we were obliged to pay an exhorbitant price for it; though it afterwards proved of little service. It may seem superfluous to mention so trifling an occurrence as this, but I believe it is hardly imagined, how great a number of little objects are to be attended to among many weightier concerns, by a traveller who means to improve his time to the utmost advantage.

On the 22d we brought all our baggage on board, and the same day we sailed from Table bay. Previous to the mention of farther occurrences, I shall here endeavour to give a succinct account of the state of this Dutch colony, which it is hoped will afford satisfactory instruction to my readers.

The southermost extremity of Africa circumnavigated so early as the times of the Egyptian king Necho, and again in the reign of Ptolemӕus Lathyrus [26] The proofs of this assertion are enumerated in Schmidt Opusc. diff. iv. de commerc. & navigation. Aegyptior. p.160. and more fully in Schlözer Handlungs Geschichte (or History of Commerce) p.300. Herodotus expressly says, that Africa is surrounded by the sea, and that this was found out by some Phœnician mariners sent out for that purpose by Pharaoh Necho from the Red Sea, who returned by the Mediterranean. lib. iv. cap. 42. Strabo, lib. ii. also mentions the expedition of one Eudoxus round Africa, in the reign of Ptolemy Lathyrus; and according to Pliny, the Carthaginians likewise have explored the coast of that continent. Hist. Nat. lib. ii. cap. 67. Et Hanno, Carthaginis potentia florente, circumvectus a Gadibus ad sinem Arabiœ, navigationem eam prodidit scripto . , was once more discovered in later times, by Bartolemeo Diaz, a Portuguese navigator, in the year 1487. Vasco de Gama was the first who made a voyage to India round it in 1497, which was looked upon as a kind of prodigy. It remained however useless to Europeans till the year 1650, when Van-Riebeck, a Dutch surgeon, first saw the advantage that would accrue to the East-India Company in Holland, from a settlement at so convenient a distance both from home and from India. The colony which he founded, has ever since continued in the hands of the Dutch, and increased in value for a considerable time after his decease.

The governor depends immediately upon the East-India Company, and has the rank of an Edele Heer, the title given to the members of the supreme council of Batavia. He presides here over a council consisting of the second, or deputy governor, the fiscal, the major (who commands the fort), the secretary, the treasurer, the comptroller of provisions, the comptroller of liquors, and the book-keeper; each of which has a branch of the Company's commerce assigned to his care. This council has the whole management of the civil and military departments, but the deputy-governor presides over another, named the court of justice, which tries all offences and crimes, and consists of some of the members of the former; but no two relations can fit and have vote in the same council, to prevent the influence of parties.

The income of the governor is very considerable, for besides a fixed appointment, and the use of houses, gardens, proper furniture, and every thing that belongs to his table, he receives about ten dollars for every leagre of wine which the Company buy of the farmer, in order to be exported to Batavia. The company allows the sum of forty dollars for each leagre, of which the farmer receives but twenty-four; what remains is shared between the governor, and second or deputy, the former taking two thirds, which sometimes are said to amount to 4000 dollars per annum. The second governor has the direction of the company's whole commerce here, and signs all orders to the different departments under him, as well as the governor to others. He and the fiscal have the rank of upper koopman. The fiscal is at the head of the police, and sees the penal laws put in execution; his income consists of fines, and of the duties laid on certain articles of commerce, but if he be strict in exacting them, he is universally detested. The found policy of the Dutch have likewise found it necessary to place the fiscal as a check, to over-awe the other officers of the company, that they may not counteract the interests of their masters, or infringe the laws of the mother country. He is to that end, commonly well versed in juridical affairs, and depends solely upon the mother country. The major (at present Mr. Von Prehn, who received us with great politeness) has the rank of koopman or merchant: this circumstance surprises a stranger, who in all other European states, is used to see military honours confer distinction and precedence, and appears still more singular to one who knows the contrast in this particular between Holland and Russia, where the idea of military rank is annexed to every place, even that of a professor at the university. The number of regular soldiers at this colony amounts to about 700, of which 400 form the garrison of the fort, near the Cape town. The inhabitants capable of bearing arms form a militia of 4000 men, of whom a considerable part may be assembled in a few hours, by means of signals made from alarm places in different parts of the country. We may from hence make some estimate of the number of white people in this colony, which is at present so extensive, that the distant settlements are above a month's journey from the Cape; but these remote parts lie sometimes more than a day's journey from each other, are surrounded by various nations of Hottentots, and too frequently feel the want of protection from their own government at that distance. The slaves in the colony are at least in the proportion of five or more, to one white person. The principal inhabitants at the Cape have sometimes from 20 to 30 slaves, which are in general treated with great lenity, and sometimes become favourites with their masters, who give them very good cloathing, but oblige them to wear neither shoes nor stockings, reserving these articles to themselves. The slaves are chiefly brought from Madagascar, and a little vessel annually goes from the Cape thither on that trade; there are however, besides them, a number of Malays and Bengalese, and some negroes. The colonists themselves are for the greatest part Germans, with some families of Dutch, and some of French protestants. The character of the inhabitants of the town is mixed. They are industrious, but fond of good living, hospitable, and sociable; though accustomed to hire their apartments to strangers [27] The terms are mentioned in Lieut. Cook's Voyage. See Hawkesworth's compilation, vol. III. p. 788. The members of the council are an exception in this respect. , for the time they touch at this settlement, and used to be complimented with rich presents of stuffs, &c. by the officers of merchant ships. They have no great opportunities of acquiring knowledge, there being no public schools of note at the Cape; their young men are therefore commonly sent to Holland for improvement, and their female education is too much neglected. A kind of dislike to reading, and the want of public amusements, make their conversation uninteresting and too frequently turn it upon scandal, which is commonly carried to a degree of inveteracy peculiar to little towns. The French, English, Portuguese, and Malay languages are very commonly spoken, and many of the ladies have acquired them. This circumstance, together with the accomplishments of singing, dancing, and playing a tune on the lute, frequently united in an agreeable person, make amends for the want of refined manners and delicacy of sentiment. There are however among the principal inhabitants, persons of both sexes, whose whole deportment, extensive reading, and well-cultivated understanding would be admired and distinguished even in Europe [28] Among them we cannot in justice avoid mentioning the governor, Baron Joachim von Plettenberg, a gentleman whose hospitality and affability do great honour to him and his nation; Mr. Hemmy, second governor, and his family; Mr. Von Prehn, the major; Mr. Bergh the secretary, a man of science, of a noble, philosophic turn of mind, with a family who distinguish themselves in every mental and bodily accomplishment, above the whole rising generation of the Cape; Mr. Kerste, Mr de Wit, and our worthy host Mr. Christophel Brand, commander of the Post at False Bay, with all their families. It is a real satisfaction to perpetuate the memory of valuable members of society, and friends to mankind. . Their circumstances are in general easy, and often very affluent, on account of the cheap rate at which the necessaries of life are to be procured; but they seldom amass such prodigious riches here as at Batavia, and I was told the greatest private fortune at the Cape did not exceed one hundred thousand dollars, or about twenty-two thousand five hundred pounds sterling.

The farmers in the country are very plain hospitable people; but those who dwell in the remotest settlements seldom come to town, and are said to be very ignorant; this may easily be conceived, because they have no better company than Hottentots, their dwellings being often several days journey asunder, which must in a great measure preclude all intercourse. The vine is cultivated in plantations within the compass of a few days journey from the town; which were established by the first colonists, and of which the ground was given in perpetual property to them and their heirs. The company at present never part with the property of the ground, but let the surface to the farmer for an annual rent, which, though extremely moderate, being only twenty-five dollars for sixty acres [29] Each acre of six hundred and sixty-six square Rhynland roods, the rood of twelve feet. The proportion of the Rhynland foot to the English is about one hundred and sixteen to one hundred and twenty. , yet does not give sufficient encouragement to plant vineyards. The distant settlements therefore chiefly raise corn and rear cattle; nay many of the settlers entirely follow the latter branch of rustick employment, and some have very numerous flocks. We were told there were two farmers who had each fifteen thousand sheep, and oxen in proportion; and several who possessed six or eight thousand sheep, of which they drive great droves to town every year; but lions and buffaloes, and the fatigue of the journey, destroy numbers of their cattle before they can bring them so far. They commonly take their families with them in large waggons covered with linen or leather, spread over hoops, and drawn by eight, ten, and sometimes twelve pair of oxen. They bring butter, mutton-tallow, the flesh and skins of sea-cows (hippopotamus), together with lion and rhinoceros' skins, to fell. They have several slaves, and commonly engage in their service several Hottentots of the poorer sort, and (as we were told) of the tribe called Boschemans or Bushmen, who have no cattle of their own, but commonly subsist by hunting or by committing depredations on their neighbours. The opulent farmers set up a young beginner by intrusting to his care a flock of four or five hundred sheep, which he leads to a distant spot, where he finds plenty of good grass and water; the one half of all the lambs which are yeaned fall to his share, by which means he soon becomes as rich as his benefactor.

Though the Dutch company seem evidently to discourage all new settlers, by granting no lands in private property, yet the products of the country have of late years sufficed not only to supply the Isles of France and Bourbon with corn, but likewise to furnish the mother country with several ship loads. These exports would certainly be made at an easier rate than at present, if the settlements did not extend so far into the country, from whence the products must be brought to the Table bay by land carriage, on roads which are almost impassable. The intermediate spaces of uncultivated land between the different settlements are very extensive, and contain many spots fit for agriculture; but one of the chief reasons why the colonists are so much divided and scattered throughout the country, is to be met with in another regulation of the company, which forbids every new settler to establish himself within a mile of another. It is evident that if this settlement were in the hands of the commonwealth, it would have attained to a great population, and a degree of opulence and splendor, of which it has not the least hopes at present: But a private company of East-India merchants find their account much better in keeping all the landed property to themselves, and tying down the colonist, left he should become too great and powerful.

The wines made at the Cape are of the greatest variety possible. The best, which is made at M. Vander Spy's plantation of Constantia, is spoken of in Europe, more by report than from real knowledge; thirty leagres [30] A leagre contains about one hundred and eight gallons, or a pipe. at the utmost are annually raised of this kind, and each leagre sells for about fifty pounds on the spot. The vines from which it is made were originally brought from Shiraz in Persia. Several other sorts grow in the neighbourhood of that plantation, which produce a sweet rich wine, that generally passes for genuine Constantia in Europe. French plants of burgundy, muscade, and frontignan have likewise been tried, and have succeeded extremely well, sometimes producing wines superior to those of the original soil. An excellent dry wine, which has a slight agreeable tartness, is commonly drank in the principal families, and is made of Madeira vines transplanted to the Cape. Several low sorts, not entirely disagreeable, are raised in great plenty, and sold at a very cheap rate, so that the sailors of the East-India ships commonly indulge themselves very plentifully in them whenever they come ashore.

The products of the country supply with provisions the ships of all nations which touch at the Cape. Corn, flour, biscuit, salted beef, brandy, and wine are to be had in abundance, and at moderate prices; and their fresh greens, fine fruits [31] Their grapes and oranges are some of the best in the world. , good mutton and beef, are excellent restoratives to seamen who have made a long voyage. The climate is likewise so healthy, that the inhabitants are rarely troubled with complaints, and strangers soon recover of the scurvy and other distempers. The winters at the Cape are so mild that they hardly ever have ice about the town: but on the mountains, and especially those far in the country, they have hard frosts with snow and hail storms; nay a strong south-easterly storm sometimes brings on a frost during night even in the month of November, which is their spring. The only inconvenience which they frequently suffer are colds, brought on by the frequent change of air from strong winds, to which the Cape is subject at all seasons. But notwithstanding the heat, which is sometimes excessive, the inhabitants of Dutch origin seem to have preserved their native habit of body, and both sexes are remarkably corpulent, to which their good living may greatly contribute.

The Hottentots or aboriginal inhabitants of this country, have retired into the interior parts, and their nearest kraal or village, is about a hundred miles from the Cape town From thence they sometimes come down with their own cattle, or attend the Dutch farmers who conduct their flocks to town for sale. We had no opportunity to make new observations upon them, as we only saw a few individuals, in whom we could not discern any pecularities but such as have already been described by Peter Kolben, in his Present State of the Cape of Good Hope, &c. The circumstantial accounts given by this intelligent man, have been confirmed to us by the principal inhabitants of the Cape town. It is true, that he has been misinformed in regard to some circumstances; and that others, chiefly relative to the colony, have at present another appearance than in his time: but he still remains the best author that can be consulted on the subject, and as such we will venture to refer our readers to him.

We have had an occasion to observe several facts alledged in Kolben, and we likewise find them mentioned in Lieutenant Cook's voyage. See Hawkesworth's compilation Vol. III. p. 789, &c. The Abbé de la Caille, an astronomer, in the account of his voyage, which was published soon after his death, has endeavoured to ruin the credit of Kolben's book, without giving us any thing better in its stead. We should not have ventured to mention so superficial a performance, as that of the Abbé, were it not necessary to vindicate from his aspersions, the character of Kolben, as a faithful and accurate observer. The Abbé lived with a family at the Cape, who were of a party directly opposite to that which had supported Kolben. He daily heard invectives against him, and never failed to write them down, in order to give himself importance at the expence of the other.

Nul n'aura d'esprit

Hors nous et nos amis. Boileau.

The extremity of Africa towards the south is a mass of high mountains, of which the outermost are black, craggy, and barren, consisting of a coarse granite, which contains no heterogeneous parts, such as petrified shells, &c. nor any volcanic productions. The cultivated spots which we saw had a stiff clay mixed with a little sand and small pieces of stone; but the plantations towards False bay are almost entirely on a sandy soil. The colony of Stellenbosch is said to have the most fertile soil of all at the Cape, and the different plantations thrive there incomparably better than any where else, particularly the European oaks, which are said to have attained a considerable height and flourishing appearance, whilst they do not seem to succeed near the town, where the tallest we saw was not above thirty feet high. The interior mountains are certainly metallic, and contain iron and copper; specimens of ores of both kinds were shewn to us by Mr. Hemmy, and some tribes of Hottentots melt both these metals; from whence we may conclude, that the ores they employ must be rich and easy of fusion. Hot springs are likewise found at several places in the interior country; and the inhabitants of the Cape Town resort to one of them at the distance of about three days journey, which is famous for curing cutaneous and other distempers, and is probably of a sulphureous nature.

The variety of plants in this country is surprising. In the little time we staid there, we observed several new species growing in the environs of the town, where we should least have expected them. And though the collections of former botanists from hence are very ample, yet Dr. Sparrman and the learned Dr. Thunberg [32] An eminent disciple of Linné, who after arranging and classing Dr. Burmann's herbals at Leyden, studied botany during three years at the Cape, and having made immense acquisitions to science, was sent to Batavia, at the expence of the Dutch East-India company, in order to proceed to Japan in 1775. The same gentleman was so obliging, at Dr. Sparrman's request, to take with him, on one of his excursions, Francis Masson, employed in the Royal garden at Kew, who had been sent to the Cape on board the Resolution, in order to collect live plants and seeds for the botanical garden. Under Dr. Thunberg's kind guidance, who pointed out to him what was worthy of notice, he has made and brought home an ample collection. have gathered above a thousand species entirely unknown before. The animal kingdom is proportionably rich in the variety of its productions. The greatest quadrupeds, the elephant, the rhinoceros, and the giraffe or camelopard, inhabit this extremity of Africa; the two first were formerly found within fifty miles of the Cape, but have been so much pursued and hunted, that they are rarely seen at present within many days journey. The rhinoceros particularly is so scarce, that the government have issued an order to prevent its being entirely extirpated. The hippopotamus, there called a sea-cow, which formerly used to come as far as Saldanha bay, is likewise so seldom seen at present, that none must be killed within a considerable distance of the Cape. Its meat is eaten here, and reckoned a great dainty: the taste in my opinion is that of coarse beef, but the fat rather resembles marrow. This animal feeds entirely on vegetables, and we were told can only dive a short space, not exceeding thirty yards. The wild buffalo is another huge quadruped, which now inhabits the more remote settlements of the Cape, and is said to have prodigious strength and ferocity. Its horns resembles those of the American wild ox ( bison), and are represented in the ixth vol. of M. de Buffon's Natural History. They often attack the farmers travelling in the country, and kill many of their cattle, which they trample upon with their feet. Dr. Thunberg lost his horses in one of these rencounters, and his fellow-traveller, the Dutch company's gardener, narrowly escaped between two trees. A young one, about three years old, belonging to the second governor, was put before a waggon, with six tame oxen, but his strength was such that they could not move him out of his place [33] We should have gone into the country to see this animal, but we only heard of it the day before our departure. this seems to be the animal mentioned by the Manet, Nouvelle Histoire de l'Afrique Françoise, tome ii. p. 129. . Besides this there is another species of wild ox, called by the natives gnoo, which has slender horns, a mane, and brushes of hair on the nose and wattles, and in the slender make of its limbs seems to resemble an horse or an antelope, more than its cogeneric animals. This species we have drawn and described, and it has been brought over to the menagerie of the Prince of Orange. Africa has always been known as the country of the beautiful genus of gazelles or antelopes [34] We can only except a few species found in India, and other parts of Asia, and one in Europe. The different species at the Cape are remarkable, some for the elegance of their shape, some for their colours, their horns, or their size. The Coodoo, or Kolben's bock ohne namen (goat without a name), from whence the name of M. de Buffon's Condoma is probably derived, is the strepsiceros of Linné and Pallas, and its height is that of a horse. Its leaps are said to be of an astonishing height. The Cape elk of Kolben, Pallas's antelope oryx, is about the size of a stag. The bonte bock is the A. scripta of Dr. Pallas. The antelope which they improperly call a hart of stag at the Cape, is the A. bubalis of Pallas. The Egyptian antelope, Linné's and Pallas's gazella, and M. de Buffon's pasan, is here called gems-bock or chamois, which it does not in the least resemble. The blue antelope, ( blauwe bock) is really of a blueish colour, but when killed soon loses the velvet-like appearance of its fur. The spring-bock, a beautiful species, named A. pygargus by Pallas, live in vast herds in the interior parts of Africa, and travel to the southward in the summer season, in search of food, attended by many lions, panthers, hyӕnas, and jackals, which prey upon them. Of this species we had the honour to present one to Her Majesty alive. Two small species, with several varieties not hitherto noticed, supply the principal inhabitants with venison of a fine flavour. Their size is that of a fawn of the fallow deer. The duyker, or diving antelope, so called from hiding itself among the bushes when pursued, and only emerging from time to time, is not yet sufficiently known, and the animal named a roebuck here, likewise deserves the farther attention of travellers. , and the different names which have been improperly given to its species, have hitherto not a little contribute to obscure our knowledge of them. A number of the fiercest beasts of prey likewise infest the Cape, and the colonists can never be at sufficient pains to extirpate them. Lions, leopards, tyger-cats, striped and spotted hyӕnas, (Pennant's Syn. of Quadr.) jackals, and several others, live on the numerous species of antelopes, on hares, jerbuas, caviӕ, and many lesser quadrupeds with which the country abounds. The number of birds is likewise very great, and among them many are arrayed in the brightest colours. I cannot help mentioning, in confirmation of Kolben's accounts, that we have seen two species of swallows at the Cape, though the Abbé de la Caille censures him for speaking of them, because they did not occur to himself. The Abbé also commits a mistake with regard to the knorhan, which is not a gelinote or grous, as he calls it, but the African bustard. Upon the whole, it would be easy to refute almost every criticism which the Abbé has passed on Kolben, if a work of so little merit deserved so much attention. Reptiles of all kinds, serpents, (among which are many whose bite is mortal), and a variety of insects swarm about the Cape; and its shores likewise abound in well-tasted fishes, nay of which are not yet known to the naturalist. In short, notwithstanding the many spoils of the vegetable and animal kingdom, which have been brought from Africa, its immense interior countries remain almost entirely unknown to the present time, and still contain great treasures of natural knowledge, which wait the future investigation of another Thunberg or another Bruce.

CHAP. IV.

Run from the Cape to the Antarctic Circle; first season spent in high Southern Latitudes. - Arrival on the Coast of New Zeeland.

[1772. November.][Sunday 22.]We sailed from Table bay, about four in the afternoon, on the 22d of November, after having saluted the fort. The wind blew in hard squalls, which continued all night, and gave us once more a rough reception on the boisterous element; while the same luminous appearance, which we had observed before our coming into this bay, was perceived again, though in a much slighter degree. [Monday 23.] The next day towards eight in the morning, we lost sight of the Cape, and directed our course to the southward. As we were now entering on an unexampled navigation, not knowing when we might meet with a new place of refreshment, the captain gave the strictest orders to prevent the waste of fresh water; to this end a centry was placed at the scuttled-cask [35] An open butt placed on the quarter-deck, and daily filled with fresh water out of the hold, for the use of the ship's company. , and a regular allowance of water was daily served out to the crew, besides which they were permitted to drink at the cask, but not to carry any water away. The captain himself washed with salt-water, and all our company were obliged to conform to this necessary restriction. The distilling machine improved by Mr. Irving, was likewise constantly employed, to supply at least some part of the quantity daily consumed.

[Tuesday 24.]On the 24th in the afternoon, the weather being fair and moderate, after a hard gale we caught nine albatrosses with a line and hook, baited with a bit of sheep's skin. Several of them measured above ten feet from tip to tip, between the expanded wings. The younger ones seemed to have a great mixture of brownish feathers, whereas the full-grown were almost entirely white except their wings, which were blackish, and their scapulars which were barred and sprinkled with dotted lines of black.

A large brown fish resembling the sun fish ( tetrodon mola), was likewise seen close to the ship for a short space of time.

[Sunday 29.]On the 29th the wind, which had for three or four days past blown a very strong gale, now encreased so much, that we ran during the last twenty-four hours, almost under the bare fore-sail. The sea at the same time ran very high, and frequently broke over the sloop, in which none of the cabins were prepared for such bad weather, our course from England to the Cape having been remarkably free of storms. The people, and especially persons not brought up to sea-affairs, were ignorant how to behave in this new situation; the prodigious rolling of the vessel therefore daily made great havock among cups, saucers, glasses, bottles, dishes, plates, and every thing that was moveable; whilst the humorous circumstances sometimes attending the general confusion, made us bear these irreparable losses with greater composure than might have been expected. The decks, and the floors of every cabin were however continually wet; and the howl of the storm in the rigging, the roar of the waves, added to the violent agitation of the vessel, which precluded almost every occupation, were new and awful scenes, but at the same severely felt, and highly disagreeable. The air was likewise unpleasantly sharp and cold about this time, our latitude being now about 42° south; and frequent rains contributed to make the service of the seamen hard and comfortless. To secure them in some measure against the inclemencies of the weather, the captain ordered a general distribution of clothes to be made, which had been expressly provided at the expence of the Admiralty to serve this purpose. Every person whose duty exposed him to the severity of southern climates, from the lieutenant to the sailor, was provided with a jacket and a pair of trowsers of the thickest woolen stuff called fearnought [36] A distribution of the same nature was made to Captain Cook's crew in his first voyage round the world. See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 40. , or strong flannel, which kept out the wet for a long time, and had this only fault, in common with every thing the navy provides, viz. that they were supplied by contract, and therefore generally too short for our people. If we consider the distresses to which M. de Bougainville's crew were reduced for want of cloathing, we cannot help reflecting on the better fortune of English seamen, who, under an equitable government, may expect to be treated with peculiar care; and who, on perilous expeditions, are humanely and attentively supplied with necessaries to face the dangers of the sea, and support their spirits in adversity. A trying moment frequently occurs, where the despondence caused by ill-treatment and heavy sufferings, must have the most fatal consequences, since its direct opposite, an undaunted resolution is then most necessary; such a moment we experience in this night. A petty officer in the forepart of the vessel, awaking suddenly, heard a noise of water streaming through his birth, and breaking itself against his own and his mess-mates chests; he leaped out of his bed, and found himself to the middle of the leg in water. He instantly acquainted the officer of the quarter-deck with this dreadful circumstance, and in a few moments almost every person in the ship was in motion; the pumps were employed, and the officers encouraged the seamen with an alarming gentleness, to persevere in their work; notwithstanding which the water seemed to gain upon us; every soul was filled with terror, encreased by the darkness of the night.

Ponto nox incubat atra,

Prӕsentemque viris intentant omnia mortem. Virgil.

For what obscured light the heav'ns did grant

Did but convey unto their fearful minds

A doubtful warrant of immediate death.

Shakespeare.

The chain-pumps were now cleared, and our sailors laboured at them with great alacrity; at last one of them luckily discovered that the water came in through a scuttle (or window) in the boatswain's store-room, which not having been secured against the tempestuous southern ocean, had been staved in by the force of the waves. It was immediately repaired, and closely shut up, and we escaped for this time with the greatest part of the clothes and effects of the sailors and officers thoroughly soaked in salt water. We should have found it difficult, if not utterly impossible, to clear the ship of the water, if the midshipman had not providentially awaked before it had gained too much upon us: the presence of mind of our officers, and the spirit of our seamen would have been exerted in vain, and we must perhaps have gone down to the bottom, in the midst of a very dark night and turbulent ocean, which would have effectually prevented our consort from giving us assistance. A distribution of fishing-hooks and lines was made about this time to every person on board, as was uncertain how soon we might meet with land, and consequently with an opportunity of making use of them.

[1772. December.][Saturday 5.]The stormy weather continued, intermixed with frequent rains and fogs, till the fifth of December [37] We had lost six large hogs of our live stock, and some sheep, during this uncomfortable weather. , when we set the top-gallant sails for the first time, after leaving the Cape of Good Hope, and observed the latitude at noon, in 47° 10' south. In the afternoon, however, the showers returned, and a western swell announced a wind from that quarter, which actually came on during night, blowing at about S. W. and chilled the air so considerably, that the thermometer sunk from 44° to 38° during the night, and some snow began to fall the next morning. [Monday 7.]The wind soon encreased to a storm again; so that on the 7th in the afternoon, we had only a single sail set. A variety of birds of the petrel and tern genus, had attended us in greater or lesser numbers ever since we had left the Cape, and the high sea and winds seemed to have no other influence on them, than that of bringing more of them about us. The principal sorts were the Cape-petrel, or pintada ( procellaria capensis), and the blue petrel, so called from its having a blueish-grey colour, and a band of blackish feathers across the whole wing. We likewise saw the two before mentioned species of albatrosses [38] See p. 51. from time to time, together with a third, less than the others, which we named the sooty, and our sailors called the quaker bird, from its having a greyish-brown colour. [Tuesday 8.]Many birds of all these different species surrounded us on the 8th of December, the wind still continuing very high, and the sea very turbulent. We now likewise saw pinguins [39] These birds, which since the time of Sir John Narborough, have been repeatedly mentioned by almost every navigator that has visited the Southern extremities of America, are so well known to the English reader, from the accounts of Anson, Byron, Bougainville, Pernetty, &c. that it is scarce necessary to describe them. They are in a manner amphibious creatures, and their wings are unfit for flying, but shaped like strong fleshy membranes, which perform all the functions of fins. There are upwards of ten different species known to the naturalists at present. for the first time, and some bunches of sea-weed, of the species called the sea-bamboo ( sucus buccinalis Lin.). These appearances greatly favoured the hope of meeting with land, as it had hitherto been held uncontroverted that weeds, especially rockweeds, (such as these were) and pinguins were never to be met with at a great distance from shores; but experience has shewn that these prognostics are not to be relied upon, and probably derive all their credit from single accidental proofs in their favour, supported by the name of some celebrated mariner. Future observations on the nature of floating rock-weeds, and drift-wood, might perhaps lead to some more determinate conclusions; for as these weeds must have been at first detached from the rocks on which they grew, it is probable that from the degree of freshness or of putridity which they have when found, the time they have been adrift, and in some rare instances, the distances from land, may be conjectured; but the direction and force of the winds and waves, and other accidental circumstances, must in that case be carefully taken into consideration.

[Wednesday 9.]The wind abated during night, so that we set out courses on the 9th in the morning. The thermometer at eight o'clock was however fallen to 35°, and only rose one degree at noon, being then in 49° 45' of south latitude. Towards night it grew colder again, and at half an hour past ten, we found the thermometer on deck very near 32°, and the edges of the scuttled-cask, filled with fresh water, were freezing. This great cold preceded the sight of ice floating in the sea, which we fell in with on the next morning. [Thursday 10.]The first we saw, was a lump of considerable size, so close to us, that we were obliged to bear away from it; another of the same magnitude a little more a-head, and a large mass about two leagues on the weather-bow, which had the appearance of a white head-land, or a chalk-cliff.

In the afternoon we passed another large cubical mass about 2000 feet long, 400 feet broad, and at least as high again as our main-top-gallant-mast head, or 200 feet high. According to the experiments of Boyle and Mairan [40] See Mairan's Dissertation sur la Glace. Paris, 1749, p. 261. , the volume of ice is to that of sea-water, nearly as ten to nine: consequently, by the known rules of hydrostatics, the volume of ice which rises above the surface of the water, is to that which sinks below it, as one to nine. Supposing the piece which we now saw to be entirely of a regular figure, its depth under water must have been one thousand eight hundred feet, and its whole height two thousand feet, allowing its length as abovementioned two thousand feet, and its breadth four hundred feet, the whole mass must have contained one thousand six hundred millions cubic feet of ice.

These prodigious pieces of ice, in all probability, drift but very slowly and imperceptibly, since the greatest part of them being under water, the power of winds and waves can have but little effect; currents perhaps are the principal agents which give them motion, though I much question, whether their velocity is ever considerable enough to carry them two miles in four-and-twenty hours. At the time we met with this first ice, all our conjectures about its formation could not amount to more than bare probabilities, and had not sufficient experience to support them: but after we have made the tour of the globe, without finding the Southern Continent, the existence of which has been so universally believed in Europe; it seems in the highest degree reasonable to suppose this floating ice to have been formed in the sea [41] Mr. Adanson, on returning from Senegal, brought several bottles filled with sea-water with him, taken up in different latitudes, which being brought to Paris from Brest in the midst of winter, the water in them froze so as to break them; the ice was perfectly fresh, and the residuum of brine was run out. See his Voyage au Senegal, p. 190. Mr. Edward Nairne, F. R. S. has made experiments on sea-water during the hard frost in 1776, inserted in the LXVI. volume of the Philosophical Transactions, which put it beyond a doubt, that solid and fresh ice may be formed from sea-water. ; an idea the more probable, as repeated and decisive experiments have evinced, that salt-water may be frozen.

This ice likewise served to shew us the great difference between the temperature of the northern and southern hemisphere. We were now in the midst of December, which answers to our June, and the latitude observed at noon gave only 51° 5' south, notwithstanding which we had already passed several pieces of ice, and the thermometer stood at 36°. The want of land in the southern hemisphere seems to account for this circumstance, since the sea, as a transparent fluid, absorbs the beams of the sun, instead of reflecting them.

[Friday 11.]On the 11th of December, about three o'clock in the afternoon, we passed to leeward of a large piece, or island of ice, at least half a mile in length. The thermometer on deck, which had been at 36° about two o'clock, was risen to 41°, on account of the fair sunshine, which continued all the afternoon: when we came abreast of the ice, the wind directly blowing from thence, it gradually sunk to 37 1/3; however we had no sooner passed it, than the mercury regained its former station of 41°. We also found that this difference of four degrees, very perceptibly affected our bodies, and concluded that the large masses of ice greatly contributed to refrigerate the general temperature of the air in these inhospitable seas. The waves dashed with great violence against the island of ice, as against a fixed body; sometimes they broke entirely over it, notwithstanding its height, which was not much inferior to that of the beforementioned piece, and we frequently saw the spray rise very high above it, a phӕnomenon, which, on account of the fair weather, had a remarkable fine effect. The sea-water by this means washed upon the ice, is probably congealed there, and serves to encrease the mass; a circumstance very materially conducive to ascertain the history of its formation.

Notwithstanding the coldness of this climate, our sloops were still surrounded by birds of the petrel genus, albatrosses and pinguins. We particularly observed a petrel, about the size of a pigeon, entirely white, with a black bill and blueish feet; it constantly appeared about the icy masses, and may be looked upon as a sure fore-runner of ice. Its colour induced us to call it the snowy-petrel. A grampus and several whales likewise made their appearance among the ice, and in these chilling regions served to vary the dismal scene, and gave us some idea of a southern Greenland.

[Sunday 13.]The number of icy masses encreased around us every day, so that we numbered upwards of twenty of a vast size on the 13th in the afternoon. One of them was full of black spots, which were taken for seals by some, and for aquatic birds by others, though we could not find that they even shifted their places. However seals being hitherto looked upon as certain signs of land, we sounded in the evening with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms, but found no bottom. The latitude we were now in, was that in which Captain Lozier Bouvet had placed his pretended discovery of Cape Circumcision, and our longitude was only a few degrees to the eastward of it: the general expectation of seeing land, was therefore very great, and every little circumstance like the preceding roused all our attention; the clouds a-head were curiously examined at every moment, since every one was eager to be the first to announce the land. We had already had several false alarms from the fallacious conformation of fog-banks, or that of islands of ice half hid in snow storms, and our consort the Adventure had repeatedly made the signals for seeing land, deceived by such appearances: but now, the imagination warmed with the idea of M. Bouvet's discovery, one of our lieutenants, after having repeatedly been up to the mast-head, (about six o'clock in the morning on the 14th) [Monday 14.]acquainted the captain that he plainly saw the land. This news soon brought up all upon deck: We saw an immense field of flat ice before us, broken into many small pieces on the edges, a vast number of islands of ice of all shapes and sizes rose beyond it as far as the eye could reach, and some of the most distant considerably raised by the hazy vapours which lay on the horizon, had indeed some appearance of mountains. Several of our officers persisted in the opinion that they had seen land here, till Captain Cook, about two years and two months afterwards (in February 1775 on his course from Cape Horn towards the Cape of Good Hope sailed over the same spot, where they had supposed it to lie, and found neither land nor even ice there at that time. Numbers of pinguins, pintadas, fulmars, snowy and blue petrels [42] Aptenodytes antarctica; Procellaria capensis, glacialis, nivea, & vittata. attended this vast extent of ice, and different species of cetaceous animals spouted up the water around us: two of them, shorter than other whales, were particularly noticed, in respect of their bulk and of a white or rather fleshy colour. A great degree of cold in these icy regions entirely precluded the idea of a summer, which we had expected at this time of the year; our thermometer stood at 31° in the morning, and did not rise beyond 33° at noon, though the latitude we observed this day was only 54° 55' south. We passed through quantities of broken ice in the afternoon, and saw another extensive ice-field, beyond which several of our people still persisted in, taking fog-banks for land. It snowed a good deal during night, and in the morning it was almost calm, but very foggy. A boat was hoisted out to try the direction of the current. Mr. Wales the astronomer, and my father, took this opportunity to repeat the experiments on the temperature of the sea at a certain depth. The fog encreased so much while they were thus engaged, that they entirely lost sight of both the ships. Their situation in a small four-oared boat, on an immense ocean, far from any inhabitable shore, surrounded with ice, and utterly destitute of provisions, was truly terrifying and horrible in its consequences. They rowed about for some time, making vain efforts to be heard, but all was silent about them, and they could not see the length of their boat. They were the more unfortunate, as they had neither mast nor sail, and only two oars. In this dreadful suspence they determined to lie still, hoping that, provided they preserved their place, the sloops would not drive out of sight, as it was calm. At last they heard the jingling of a bell at a distance; this sound was heavenly music to their ears; they immediately rowed towards it, and by continual hailing, were at last answered from the Adventure, and hurried on board, overjoyed to have escaped the danger of perishing by slow degrees, through the inclemencies of weather and through famine. Having been on board some time, they fired a gun, and being within hail of the Resolution, returned on board of that sloop, to their own damp beds and mouldering cabins, upon which they now set a double value, after so perilous an expedition. The risks to which the voyager is exposed at sea are very numerous, and danger often arises where it is least expected. Neither can we trace the care of Providence more evidently in storms among hidden rocks and shoals, and where water or fire threaten destruction, than in these little circumstances, which the traveller and the reader are both too apt to forget or pass lightly over, if they come to a favourable issue.

[Friday 18.]The quantity of impenetrable ice to the south did not permit us to advance towards that quarter; therefore, after several fruitless attempts, we stood on to the eastward, along it, frequently making way through great spots covered with broken ice, which answered the description of what the northern navigators call packed ice. Heavy hail showers and frequent falls of snow continually obscured the air, and only gave us the reviving sight of the sun during short intervals. Large islands of ice were hourly seen in all directions around the sloops, so that they were now become as familiar to us as the clouds and the sea; their frequency however still led to new observations, which our long acquaintance with them served to confirm. We were certain of meeting with ice in any quarter where we perceived a strong reflexion of white on the shirts of the sky near the horizon. However the ice is not always entirely white, but often tinged, especially near the surface of the sea, with a most beautiful sapphirine or rather berylline blue, evidently reflected from the water; this blue colour sometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above the surface, and was there probably owing to some particles of sea-water which had been dashed against the mass in tempestuous weather, and had penetrated into its interstices. We could likewise frequently observe in great islands of ice, different shades or casts of white, lying above each other in strata of six inches or one foot high. This appearance seems to confirm the opinion concerning the farther encrease and accumulation of such huge masses by heavy falls of snow at different intervals. For snow being of various kinds, small grained, large grained, in light feathery locks, &c. the various degrees of its compactness account for the different colours of the strata.

[Tuesday 22.]We did not lose sight of our destination to explore the southern frigid zone, and no sooner perceived the sea more open than before, than we stood once more to the south-ward. We made but small advances at first, the wind being very faint, and almost falling calm in the morning on the 23d. [Wednesd. 23.]We seized this opportunity to hoist out a boat, and continue the experiments on the current, and on the temperature of the sea. The species of petrels which were numerous about us, were likewise examined, described, and drawn this day, having been shot as they hovered with seeming curiosity over our little boat.

[Thursday 24.]We continued standing southerly, and even made a good deal of westing, the wind being S. S. E. [Friday 25.]The next morning the wind blew pretty fresh, and carried us past several islands of ice; some whales, and a number of birds appearing about us. Our first Christmas day during this voyage, was spent with the usual chearfulness among officers and passengers; but among the sailors, notwithstanding the surrounding rocks of ice, with savage noise and drunkenness, to which they seem to have particularly devoted the day. [Saturday 26.]The next morning we sailed through a great quantity of packed or broken ice, some of which looked dirty or decaying. Islands of ice still surrounded us, and in the evening, the sun setting just behind one of them, tinged its edges with gold, and brought upon the whole mass a beautiful suffusion of purple. A dead calm which succeeded on the 27th, gave us an opportunity of hoisting the boat out, and going to shoot pinguins and petrels. The chace of pinguins proved very unsuccessful, though it afforded great sport; the birds dived so frequently, continued so long under water, and at times skipped continually into and out of the water, making way with such amazing velocity in a strait line, that we were obliged to give over the pursuit. At last we came near enough to one, to wound it; but though we followed it closely, and fired above ten times with small shot, which we could observe to hit, yet we were at last obliged to kill it with ball. When we took it up, we perceived that its hard, glossy plumage, had continually turned the shot aside. This plumage is extremely thick, and consists of long narrow feathers, which lie above each other as closely as scales, and secure these amphibious birds against the wet, in which they almost constantly live. Their very thick skin and their fat seem wisely appropriated to them by nature, to resist the perpetual winter of these unhospitable climates; their broad belly, the situation of their feet far behind, and their fins, which supply the place of wings, are constructed with equal wisdom to facilitate the progress of their otherwise lumpish bodies through the water. The one that we had now shot weighed eleven pounds and a half. The blue petrels which are seen throughout this immense ocean, and which now settled in flocks of several hundreds on the smooth surface of the water, were not worse fitted out against the cold than the pinguins. Their plumage was amazingly abundant, and increased their bulk in a great proportion; and two feathers instead of one, proceeded out of every root, lying within each other, and formed a very warm covering. As they are almost continually in the air, their wings are very strong, and of a great length to support them. On the ocean, between New Zeeland and America, we have found them above seven hundred leagues from any land; a distance which it would have been impossible for them to have passed, without an amazing strength in their bones and muscles, and the assistance of long wings. Possibly these birds spreading over the whole ocean far from any land, may live a considerable time without fresh supplies of food; that being the case with many animals of prey, both in the class of quadrupeds and that of birds. Our experience should seem in some measure to contradict, and in some degree to confirm, this supposition. For whenever we lamed any of them, they disgorged a quantity of viscid food, to all appearance recently digested, which the rest immediately swallowed up with such avidity as seemed to indicate a long fast. Therefore it may be probably, that several sorts of blubbers ( mollusca) inhabit these icy seas, which may come to the surface in fair weather, and supply the weary birds with food. We were glad to meet with subjects from whence these little reflections could be drawn. They afforded us a momentary relief from that gloomy uniformity with which we slowly passed dull hours, days, and months in this desolate part of the world. We were almost perpetually wrapt in thick fogs, beaten with showers of rain, sleet, hail, and snow, the temperature of the air being constantly about the point of congelation in the height of summer; surrounded by innumerable islands of ice against which we daily ran the risk of being shipwrecked, and forced to live upon salt provisions, which concurred with the cold and wet to infect the mass of our blood. These severities naturally inspired a general wish for a happier change of situation and climate, though our seamen coming fresh and strong from England, were not yet dispirited amidst the numberless fatigues and inclemencies to which they were exposed. The prophylactics, with which we had been supplied, and which were regularly served to the crew, namely portable broth, and sour krout, had a wonderful effect in keeping them free from the sea-scurvy. Two or three men however, of a bad habit of body, could not resist this dreadful disease; one of them in particular, George Jackson, a carpenter, fell ill ten days after leaving the Cape; his gums were ulcerous, and his teeth so loose, as to lie sideways. A marmalade of carrots, which had been much recommended was tried, but without success, it having no other effect than that of keeping him open. Our surgeon, Mr. Patton, then began the cure with fresh wort, i.e. the infusion of malt, by which he gradually recovered, and in the space of a few weeks, was perfectly cured, his teeth fast, and his gums entirely renewed. As the efficient cause of his complaint still existed, he was obliged to continue the use of wort even after his cure, and by that means was kept free from all scorbutic symptoms. The encomiums on the efficacy of malt cannot be exaggerated, and this useful remedy ought never to be forgotten on board of ships bound on long voyages; nor can we bestow too much care to prevent its becoming damp and mouldy, by which means its salutary qualities are impaired, as we experienced during the latter part of our voyage.

[1773. January.][Friday 1.]The new year began with snow-showers and fresh cold gales, which carried us to the westward, under the meridian, where M. Bouvet placed the discovery, which he called Cape Circumcision. The sight of seals and pinguins once more revived the hopes of some of our fellow-voyagers, who bid us look out for land, which by their account could not be far off. Our course however soon disappointed their expectations, and only served to invalidate their testimonies of the proximity of land.

[Sunday 3.]The wind shifted to the north-westward in the night, and we stood back again to the east, having first proceeded beyond the meridian of M. Bouvet's discovery. We passed the spot where we had met with much ice on the 31st of December, and found it drifted away from thence; after which we continued our course to the S. E.

[Saturday 9.]On the 9th, in the morning, we saw a large island of ice, surrounded with many small broken pieces, and the weather being moderate we brought to, hoisted out the boats, and sent them to take up as much of the small ice as they could. We piled up the lumps on the quarter-deck, packed them into casks, and after dinner melted them in the coppers, and obtained about thirty days water, in the course of this day, and in the latitude of 61° 36' south. Two days afterwards we had another opportunity of supplying our sloops with ice, which our people performed with great alacrity, notwithstanding the excoriation of their hands, which the cold and the sharpness of the sea produced. A picturesque view of some large masses of ice, and of our ships and boats employed in watering from small ice, is inserted in Captain Cook's account of this voyage. Some white whales of a huge size, seemingly sixty feet long, were observed here, and many pinguins floated past us, standing upright on small bits of ice. The water we melted out of this ice was perfectly fresh, and had a purer taste than any which we have on board. If any fault could be found with it, it was that the fixed air was expelled from it, by which means almost every one who used it was affected with swellings in the glands of the throat. Water melted from snow or ice is known always to have this effect, and the constant use of it in mountainous countries produces those enormous wens ( goîtres) which are common among Alpine nations, and are become so habitual that they are looked upon as ornamental. Several persons on board, unacquainted with natural philosophy, were very seriously afraid that the ice, when it began to melt, would burst the casks in which it was paced, not considering that its volume must be greater in its frozen than in its melted state, since it floated on the surface. The Captain, to undeceive them, placed a little pot filled with stamped ice in a temperate cabin, where it gradually dissolved, and in that state took up considerably less space than before. Ocular demonstration always goes farther than the clearest arguments; but reasoning never has less weight than with sailors.

[Sunday 17.]On the 17th, in the forenoon, we crossed the antarctic circle, and advanced into the southern frigid zone, which had hitherto remained impenetrable to all navigators. Some days before this period we had seen a new species of petrel, of a brown colour, with a white belly and rump, and a large white spot on the wings, which we now named the antarctic petrel, as we saw great flights of twenty or thirty of them hereabouts, of which we shot many that unfortunately never fell into the ship. About five o'clock in the afternoon, we had sight of more than thirty large islands of ice a-head; and perceived a strong white reflexion from the sky over the horizon. Soon after we passed through vast quantities of broken ice, which looked honey-combed and spungy, and of a dirty colour. This continually thickened about us, so that the sea became very smooth, though the wind was fresh as before. An immense field of solid ice extended beyond it to the south, as far as the eye could reach from the mast-head. Seeing it was impossible to advance farther that way, Captain Cook ordered the ships to put about, and stood north-east by north, after having reached 67° 15' south latitude, where many whales, snowy, grey, and antarctic petrels, appeared in every quarter.

[Wednesd. 20.]On the 19th and 20th we saw a bird, which a gentleman, who had been at Falkland's islands, called a Port-Egmont hen [43] This bird is mentioned in Lieutenant Cook's voyage in the Endeavour. See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 283. , and which proved to be the skua or great northern gull ( larus catarractes), common in the high latitudes of both hemispheres. The appearance of this bird, was likewise construed into a prognostick of land; but our disappointments had already been so frequent in this respect, that we were not easily led to give credit to bare assertions. We saw a bird of this species again on the 27th, when we had a great variety of all kinds of petrels and albatrosses around us. It always soared up to a great height, perpendicularly over our heads, and looked down upon us, as it should seem with great attention, turning its head now on one side, and now on the other. This was a novelty to us, who were used to see all the other aquatic birds of this climate keep near the surface of the sea. The next evening, and on the 29th, we had several porpesses passing by us with amazing swiftness in all directions. They were pied, and had a large blotch of white on the sides, which came almost up to the back behind the dorsal fin. Their velocity was at least triple that of our vessels, though we now went at the rate of seven knots and a half. In the afternoon we saw a small black and white bird, which some called an ice-bird, and others a murr, and which seldom or never go out of sight of land; but as we could not come near enough to examine it more accurately, we rather believed that it might be a species of petrel. We stood however off and on this night and the next, finding the sea very moderate, though the wind blew very fresh. We were the more induced to take this precaution as we had received intelligence at the Cape of Good Hope of a discovery of land hereabouts, by the French captains M. de Kerguelen and M. de St. Allouarn in January 1772.

As the journal of that voyage has been suppressed in France, I shall here insert such particulars as were communicated to us by several French officers at the Cape of Good Hope. M. de Kerguelen, a lieutenant in the French navy, commanding the vessel ( flute) la Fortune, and having with him a smaller vessel ( gabarre) le Gros Ventre, commanded by M. de St. Allouarn, sailed from the Isle of France or Mauritius the latter end of 1771. On the 13th of January 1772, he saw two isles, which he called the Isles of Fortune; and the next morning one more, which from its shape they called Isle Ronde. Almost about the same time, M. de Kerguelen saw land, of a considerable extent and height, upon which he sent one of the officers of his ship a-head in the cutter to sound. But the wind blowing fresh, M. de St. Allouarn in the Gros Ventre shot ahead of the boat, and finding a bay, which he called the Gros Ventre's bay sent his own yawl to take possession of the land which was performed with the utmost difficulty. Both the boats then returned aboard the Gros Ventre, and the cutter was cut adrift on account of the bad weather. M. de St. Allouarn then spent three days in quest of M. de Kerguelen, who had been driven sixty leagues to leeward, on account of his weak masts, and was returned towards the Isle of France. M. de St. Allouarn continued to take the bearings of this land, and doubled its northern extremity beyond which it tended to the south-eastward. In this direction he coasted it for the space of twenty leagues, and seeing it was very high, inaccessible, and destitute of trees, he left it, standing over to the coast of New Holland, from thence to Timor and Batavia, and at last back to the Isle of France, where he died soon after his arrival. On M. de Kerguelen's return to Europe, he was immediately sent out again with a 64 gun ship called the Roland, and the frigate l'Oiseau, captain Rosnevet; but after having just seen the land, which he had discovered in his former voyage, he returned without making farther discoveries. The northern coast of the land which he discovered, is situated in about 48 degrees south latitude, and about 82 degrees east longitude from Ferro, or 6 degrees east of the Isle of France, (i.e. in about 64° 20' east from Greenwich).

M. de Marion in his expedition of 1772, in January, fell in with small islands in three different places, about the latitude of 46 1/2° and 47 1/2° , and about the longitudes of 37°, 46 1/2° , and 48 1/2° east from Greenwich. These islands were all of inconsiderable extent, high, rocky, destitute of trees, and almost entirely barren. M. de Marion had two ships under his command, one the Mascarin, captain Crozet, the other the Castrie, captain Du Clesmure. They proceeded to the southern extremity of New Holland, or Diemen's land, first seen by Tasman; and from thence to the bay of islands in New Zeeland, where M. de Marion was killed with 28 of his men by the natives, of which more shall be said in the sequel. After this loss M. de Crozet, on whom the command devolved, passed through the western part of the South Sea to the Philippinas, from whence he returned to the Isle de France. Agreeably to these accounts, the discoveries of the French voyagers have been laid down in an excellent [1773. February.]chart of the southern hemisphere, by M. de Vaugondy, under the direction of the duke de Croy, and published in March 1773.

On the 31st in the evening, our latitude being nearly that of 50° south, we passed by a large island of ice, which at that instant crumbled to pieces with a tremendous explosion. [Monday 1.]The next morning a bundle of sea weeds was seen floating past the sloop; and in the afternoon, captain Furneaux in the Adventure having hailed us, acquainted captain Cook that he had seen a number of divers, resembling those in the English seas, and had past a great bed of floating rock-weeds. In consequence of these observations we stood off and on during night, and continued an easterly course the next morning. [Tuesday 2.]We saw many petrels and black shear-waters, some rock-weed, and a single tern ( sterna) or as the seamen call it an egg-bird, which had a forked tail. At noon we observed in 48° 36' south latitude, which was nearly the same in which the French discoveries are said to be situated. After noon we stood south-westward, but the next day the gale encreased to such a degree, as obliged us to hand our topsails, and stand on under the courses all night: however, at eight o'clock on the 4th, we found a smooth sea gain, and set more sail, changing our course to the north-westward at noon. On the 6th our latitude at noon was nearly 48 degrees south, about 60 degrees east from Greenwich, when not seeing any land, we gave over the attempt to stand in search of it, and directed our course once more to the south-eastward, to the main object of our voyage. The smoothness of the sea, whilst we had strong easterly gales, however persuaded us, that there was probably some land near us to the eastward, and the situation given to the French discoveries, in M. Vaugondy's late chart, has confirmed our supposition; for, according to it, we must have been at least 2 degrees of longitude to the west of it, on the second of February, when we were farthest to the east in the given latitude. Though we did not fall in with the land itself, yet we have done so much service to geography by our track, as to put it beyond a doubt, that the French discovery is a small island, and not, what it was supposed at first to be, the north cape of a great southern continent.

[Monday 8.]On the 8th in the morning, we had an exceeding thick fog, during which we lost sight of the Adventure, our consort. We fired guns all that day and the next, at first every half hour, and afterwards every hour, without receiving any answer; and at night we burnt false fires, which likewise proved ineffectual.

[Wednesd. 10.]On the 10th in the morning, notwithstanding all our endeavours to recover our consort, we were obliged to proceed alone on a dismal course to the southward, and to expose ourselves once more to the dangers of that frozen climate, without the hope of being saved by our fellow-voyagers, in case of losing our own vessel. Our parting with the Adventure, was almost universally regretted among our crew, and none of them ever looked around the ocean without expressing some concern on seeing our ship alone on this vast and unexplored expanse, where the appearance of a companion seemed to alleviate our toils, and inspired cheerfulness and comfort. We were likewise not entirely without apprehensions, that the Adventure might have fallen in with land, as the sight of pinguins, of little diving petrels, and especially of a kind of grebe, seemed to vindicate its vicinity. Indeed, according to the chart of M. Vaugondy we must have been but very little to the south of it at that time.

[Wednesd. 17.]On the 17th we were near 8 degrees south, and took up a great quantity of small ice, with which we filled our water casks. A variety of petrels and albatrosses, had attended us continually; and from time to time the skua, or great northern gull ( larus catarractes), which our people called a Port Egmont hen, many pinguins, some seals, and some whales had made their appearance near us. A beautiful phӕnomenon was observed during the preceding night, which appeared again this and several following nights. It consisted of long columns of a clear white light, shooting up from the horizon to the eastward, almost to the zenith, and gradually spreading on the whole southern part of the sky. These columns sometimes were bent sideways at their upper extremity, and though in most respects similar to the northern lights ( aurora borealis) of our hemisphere, yet differed from them, in being always of a whitish colour, whereas ours assume various tints, especially those of a fiery, and purple hue. The stars were sometimes hid by, and sometimes faintly to be seen through the substance of these southern lights, ( aurora australis), which have hitherto, as far as I can find, escaped the notice of voyagers. The sky was generally clear when they appeared, and the air sharp and cold, the thermometer standing at the freezing point.

[Wednesd. 24.]On the 24th, being in about 62 degrees sgouth latitude, we fell in once more with a solid field of ice, which confined our progress to the south, very much to the satisfaction of every body on board. We had now been long at sea, without receiving any refreshment; the favourable season for making discoveries towards the frozen zone, drew to an end; the weather daily became more sharp, and uncomfortable, and presaged a dreadful winter in these seas; and, lastly, the nights lengthened apace, and made our navigation more dangerous than it had hitherto been. It was therefore very natural, that our people, exhausted by fatigues and the want of wholesome food, should wish for a place of refreshment, and rejoice to leave a part of the world, where they could not expect to meet with it. [1773. March.][Wednesd. 17.]We continued however from this day till the 17th of March to run to the eastward, between 61° and 58°of s outh latitude, during which time we had a great share of easterly winds, which commonly brought fogs, and rains with them, and repeatedly exposed us to the most imminent danger of being wrecked against huge islands of ice. The shapes of these large frozen masses, were frequently singularly ruinous, and so far picturesque enough; among them we passed one of a great size, with a hollow in the middle, resembling a grotto or cavern, which was pierced through, and admitted the light from the other side. Some had the appearance of a spire or steeple; and many others gave full scope to our imagination, which compared them to several known objects, by that means attempting to overcome the tediousness of our cruize, which the sight of birds, porpesses, seals, and whales, now too familiar to our eyes, could not prevent from falling heavily upon us. Notwithstanding our excellent preservatives, especially the sour-krout, several of our people had now strong symptoms of sea-scurvy, such as bad gums, difficult breathing, livid blotches, eruptions, contracted limbs, and greenish greasy filaments in the urine. Wort was therefore prescribed to them, and those who were the most affected drank five pints of it per day; the contracted limbs were bathed in it, and the warm grains applied to them. By this means we succeeded to mitigate, and in some individuals entirely to remove the symptoms of this horrid disease. The rigours of the climate likewise violently affected the live sheep, which we had embarked at the Cape of Good Hope. They were covered with eruptions, dwindled to mere skeletons, and would hardly take any nourishment. Our goats and sows too, miscarried in the tempestuous weather, or their off-spring were killed by the cold. In short, we felt, from the numerous concurrent circumstances, that it was time to abandon the high southern latitudes, and retire to some port, where our crew might obtain refreshments, and where we might save the few sheep, which were intended as presents to the natives of the South-sea islands.

On the 16th, being in about 58 degrees of south latitude, we saw the sea luminous at night, though not to such a degree as we had observed it near the Cape, but only by means of some scattered sparks. This phӕnomenon was however remarkable, on account of the high latitude we were in, and the cold weather, our thermometer being at 33 1/4° at noon. We saw the southern lights again during the nights of the 16th and 19th; and this last time, the columns formed an arch across the sky, rather brighter than any we had hitherto seen. We now stood to the north-eastward, in order to reach the south end of New-Zeeland; and on this course we had strong gales, and frequently saw weeds, especially rock-weeds, together with numbers of petrels, and other birds. We were much amused by a singular chace of several skuas or great grey gulls, after a large white albatross. The skuas seemed to get the better of this bird, notwithstanding its length of wings, and whenever they overtook it, they endeavoured to attack it under the belly, probably knowing that to be the most defenceless part; the albatross on these occasions had no other method of escaping, than by settling on the water, where its formidable beak seemed to keep them at bay. The skuas are in general very strong and rapacious birds, and in the Ferro Islands frequently tear lambs to pieces, and carry them away to their nests. The albatrosses do not seem to be so rapacious, but live upon small marine animals, especially of the mollusca, or blubber class. They appeared in great numbers around us, as we came to the northward of 50 degrees south, only few solitary birds having gone so far to the south as we had penetrated; from whence it may be inferred, that they are properly inhabitants of the temperate zone.

As we stood to the northward, we also observed more seals every day, which came from the coast of New Zeeland. A large trunk of a tree, and several bunches of weeds [Thursday 25.]were seen on the 25th, and greatly exhilarated the spirits of our sailors. Soon after, the land was descried, bearing N. E. by E. at a vast distance. About five o'clock in the afternoon we were within a few miles of it, and saw some high mountains inland, and a broken rocky coast before us, where several inlets seemed to indicate an extensive bay or sound. We tried soundings in 30 fathoms, but found none; however, at the mast-head they observed sunken rocks close to us, on which we immediately tacked, and stood off shore, as the weather was growing dark and misty. The next morning we found this part of New Zeeland lay to the southward of Cape West, and had not been explored by captain Cook, in the Endeavour.

Thus ended our first cruize in the high southern latitudes, after a space of four months and two days, out of sight of land, during which we had experienced no untoward accident, and had been safely led through numerous dangers by the guiding hand of Providence, which preserved our crew in good health during the whole time, a few individuals excepted. Our whole course, from the Cape of Good Hope to New Zeeland, was a series of hardships, which had never been experienced before: all the disagreeable circumstances of the sails and rigging shattered to pieces, the vessel rolling gunwale to, and her upper works torn by the violence of the strain; the concomitant effects of storms, which have been painted with such strong expression, and blackness of Colorit, by the able writer of Anson's Voyage, were perhaps the least distressing occurrences of ours. We had the perpetual severities of a rigorous climate to cope with; our seamen and officers were exposed to rain, sleet, hail, and snow; our rigging was constantly encrusted with ice, which cut the hands of those who were obliged to touch it; our provision of fresh water was to be collected in lumps of ice floating on the sea, where the cold, and the sharp saline element alternately numbed, and scarified the sailors' limbs; we were perpetually exposed to the danger of running against huge masses of ice, which filled the immense Southern ocean: the frequent and sudden appearance of these perils, required an almost continual exertion of the whole crew, to manage the ship with the greatest degree of precision and dispatch. The length of time which we remained out of sight of land, and the long abstinence from any sort of refreshment were equally distressful; for our hooks and lines distributed in November (See pag. 90.) had hitherto been of no service, on account of our navigation in high southern latitudes, and across an unfathomable ocean, where we saw no fish except whales, and where it is well known no others can be expected; the torrid zone being the only one where they may be caught out of soundings.

Atrum

Defendens pisces hiemat mare. Horat.

We may add to these the dismal gloominess which always prevailed in the southern latitudes, where we had impenetrable fogs lasting for weeks together, and where we rarely saw the cheering face of the sun; a circumstance which alone is sufficient to deject the most undaunted, and to sour the spirits of the most cheerful. It is therefore justly to be wondered at, and ought to be considered as a distinguishing mark of divine protection, that we had not felt those ill effects which might have been expected, and justly dreaded as the result of such accumulated distresses.

CHAP. V.

Stay at Dusky Bay; description of it, and account of our transactions there.

[1773. March.]AFTER an interval of one hundred and twenty-two days, and a run of above three thousand five hundred leagues, out of sight of land, we entered Dusky Bay on the 26th of March about noon. [Friday 26.]This bay is situated a little to the northward of Cape West, and captain Cook, in his voyage in the Endeavour, had discovered and named it without entering into it [44] See Hawkesworth's compilation, vol. III. p. 424. . The soundings gave about 40 fathoms in the entrance, but as we advanced, we had no ground with 60, and therefore were obliged to push on farther. The weather was delightfully fair, and genially warm, when compared to what we had lately experienced; and we glided along by insensible degrees, wafted by light airs, past numerous rocky islands, each of which was covered with wood and shrubberies, where numerous evergreens were sweetly contrasted and mingled with the various shades of autumnal yellow. Flocks of aquatic birds enlivened the rocky shores, and the whole country resounded with the wild notes of the feathered tribe. We had long and eagerly wished for the land and its vegetable productions, and therefore could not but eye the prospect before us with peculiar delight, and with emotions of joy and satisfaction which were strongly marked in the countenance of each individual.

About three o'clock in the afternoon, we dropped an anchor under a point of an island, where we were in some measure sheltered from the sea, and so near the shore, as to reach it with a hawser. The sloop was no sooner in safety, than every sailor put his hook and line overboard, and in a few moments numbers of fine fish were hauled up on all parts of the vessel, which heightened the raptures we had already felt at our entrance into this bay. The real good taste of the fish, joined to our long abstinence, inclined us to look upon our first meal here, as the most delicious we had ever made in our lives. The view of rude sceneries in the style of Rosa, of antediluvian forests which cloathed the rock, and of numerous rills of water, which every where rolled down the steep declivity, altogether conspired to complete our joy; and so apt is mankind, after a long absence from land, to be prejudiced in favour of the wildest shore, that we looked upon the country at that time, as one of the most beautiful which nature unassisted by art could produce. Such are the general ideas of travellers and voyagers long exhausted by distresses; and with such warmth of imagination they have viewed the rude cliffs of Juan Fernandez, and the impenetrable forests of Tinian!

Immediately after dinner two boats were sent out to reconnoitre different parts of the bay, and chiefly to look for a safe harbour for our vessel, the first anchoring-place being open, inconvenient, and only serving the necessity of the moment. We improved these opportunities of pursuing our researches in natural history, and separated in order to profit by both excursions. Each of the parties found convenient and well-sheltered harbours, with plenty of wood and water; and wherever they went they met with such abundance of fish and water-fowl, that they entertained hopes of a constant supply of refreshments during their stay in these parts. This prospect prevailed upon Capt. Cook, who had but cursorily examined the southern extremities of New-Zeeland in his former voyage, to spend some time there, in order to gain a more competent knowledge of its situation and productions. On our part, we perceived a new store of animal and vegetable bodies, and among them hardly any that were perfectly similar to the known species, and several not analogous even to the known genera. With these therefore we hoped to be wholly employed during our stay, in spight of the approach of autumn, which seemed to threaten the vegetable creation.

[Saturday 27.]Early the next morning, a small boat having been sent out towards the shore, returned in three hours time with as many fishes, caught by the hook, as supplied a plentiful dinner to all on board. The best and most savoury fish was a species of the cod, which, from its external colour, our sailors called a coal-fish: besides this we caught several species of excellent flat cavalhas ( sciœnœ;), some scorpens, mullets, horse-mackrel, and many other sorts of a fine taste, which were entirely unknown in Europe. At nine o'clock we got under sail and went into Pickersgill harbour one of those examined the preceding day, where the ship was moored head and stern in a small creek, and so near the shore, that we could reach it by means of a stage of a few planks. Nature had assisted us for this purpose with a large tree, projecting in an horizontal position over the water, of which we placed the top on our gunwale, connecting our planks with it. This situation facilitated all our operations, and was particularly adapted to the conveniency of wooding and watering, for our sloop's yards were locked in the branches of surrounding trees, and about half a musket shot a-stern we had a fine stream of fresh water.

We now began the clear away the woods from a neighbouring hill, in order to fix the astronomer's observatory upon it, and to establish our forge there, as our iron-works wanted repairs. Near the watering-place we pitched tents for the sail-makers, coopers, waterers, and wood-cutters. These occupations served to lower the great idea which our people had conceived of this country; for the prodigious intricacy of various climbers, briars, shrubs, and ferns which were interwoven throughout the forests, rendered the task of clearing the ground extremely fatiguing and difficult, and almost precluded the access to the interior parts of the country. It is indeed reasonable to suppose, that in the southern parts of New-Zeeland, the forests have never been touched by human industry, but have remained in the rude unimproved state of nature since their first existence. Our excursions into them gave us sufficient grounds for this supposition; for not only the climbing plants and shrubs obstructed our passage, but likewise numbers of rotten trees lay in our way, felled by winds and old age. A new generation of young trees, of parasitic plants, ferns, and mosses sprouted out of the rich mould to which this old timber was reduced by length of time, and a deceitful bark sometimes still covered the interior rotten substance, whereon if we attempted to step, we sunk in to the waist. The animal creation afforded another proof that this country had not yet undergone any changes from the hands of mankind, and indeed at first raised the idea, that Dusky Bay was wholly uninhabited. Numbers of small birds which dwelt in the woods were so little acquainted with men, that they familiarly hopped upon the nearest branches, nay on the ends of our fowling-pieces, and perhaps looked at us as new objects, with a curiosity similar to our own. This little boldness in reality at first protected them from harm, since it was impossible to shoot them when they approached so near; but in a few days it frequently proved the means of their destruction; for a sly cat on board, had no sooner perceived so excellent an opportunity of obtaining delicious meals, than she regularly took a walk in the woods every morning, and made great havock among the little birds, that were not aware of such an insidious enemy.

As we had plenty of fish, and saw a number of water-birds which might afford us a variety of animal food, some of our botanical excursions were in a great measure instituted in search of useful vegetables, to be eaten as greens. From thence the most salutary effects might be expected, by a set of people who had been above seventeen weeks at sea, and whose blood must have been more or less corrupted by living so long on salt provisions.

On the first day after our arrival we found a beautiful tree in flower, something related to the myrtle-genus, of which an infusion had been drank instead of tea in Capt. Cook's former voyage. We immediately repeated the experiment with great eagerness, as we had not yet seen any plant which was fit to be used at our tables. Its leaves were finely aromatic, astringent, and had a particular pleasant flavour at the first infusion; but this fine taste went off at the next filling up of the tea-pot, and a great degree of bitterness was then extracted. We therefore never suffered it to be twice infused. The use of this plant, which became general among our crew, probably contributed greatly to restore their strength, and to remove all scorbutic symptoms. A plant, which might be of service to future navigators, deserved to be drawn, in order that they might know it again. We have therefore very readily permitted Captain Cook to make use of our drawing of it, from which a plate has been engraved by order of the Admiralty, intended to accompany his own account of this voyage. In a fine soil in thick forests it grows to a considerable tree, sometimes thirty or forty feet high, and above a foot in diameter; on a hilly arid exposure I have, on the contrary, found it as a little shrub, six inches high, which bore flowers and seed; but its usual size is about eight or ten feet, and about three inches in diameter. In that case its stem is irregular and unequal, dividing very soon into branches which rise at acute angles, and only bear leaves and flowers at top. The flowers are white and very ornamental to the whole plant. Another tree, which grew in great plenty round about us, was likewise tried, and afforded a good infusion; but the resemblance it bore to the trees of the fir tribe, and a kind of resinous taste, soon convinced us that it was fitter to serve the purposes of the American spruce-tree, and that a palatable and wholesome liquor might be brewed from it, as a kind of substitute for spruce-beer [45] This useful plant deserves a description for the benefit of the navigator, but, notwithstanding all our researches, we could never find it either in flower or in fruit, owing to the unfavourable seasons in which we visited New-Zeeland. . In effect, with the addition of the inspissated juice of wort, and of some molasses, we brewed a very good sort of beer, which we improved very considerably afterwards, by correcting the too great astringency of our new spruce, with an equal quantity of the new tea-tree. Its taste was pleasant, and something bitter; and the only fault we could observe in it was, that being taken on an empty stomach, it frequently caused a nausea or sickness; but in all other respects it proved a very salutary drink. The spruce of New-Zeeland is a very beautiful tree, and conspicuous on account of its pendant branches, which are loaded with numerous long thread-like leaves, of a vivid green. It frequently grows to the height of fifty or sixty, and even one hundred feet, and has above ten feet in girth. Though the spruce and the tea-trees alone afforded articles of refreshment in Dusky Bay; yet we found the woods full of trees of various kinds, very fit for the use of shipwrights, joiners, and other mechanics; and Capt. Cook was of opinion that, except in the river Thames on the northern island, he had not observed a finer growth of timber on all New-Zeeland.

[Sunday 28.]We had not been above two days in this bay, before we found that our opinion of its being uninhabited was premature. On the 28th in the morning several of our officers went a shooting in a small boat, and on entering a cove two or three miles from the ship, perceived several natives upon a beach, who were about to launch their canoe. The New Zeelanders halloo'd at their approach, and seeming by this means more numerous than they really were, the officers thought proper to return and acquaint the captain with their discovery; a step which they found the more necessary, as the weather was very rainy, and might, in case of danger, have prevented their pieces from going off. They were scarcely returned on board, when a canoe [46] We shall always make use of this word to signify an Indian embarkation, unless we mean to describe or specify it more particularly. appeared off a point, at about a mile's distance from the sloop; there were seven or eight people in it, who looked at us for some time, but notwithstanding all the signs of friendship which we could make, such as calling to them to come to us, waving a white cloth, and promising beads, they did not care to come nearer, and paddled back again the same way they came. They appeared to be dressed in mats, and had broad paddles with which they managed their canoe, like the inhabitants in the northern parts of New Zeeland. Captain Cook resolved to visit them in the afternoon, in order to quiet the apprehension which they seemed to have entertained. We went in two boats, accompanying him and several of the officers into the cove, where the natives had been first seen. Here we found a double canoe hauled upon the shore, near some old, low huts, about which we saw vestiges of fire places, some fishing-nets, and a few scattered fish. The canoe which appeared to be old and in bad order, consisted of two troughs or boats joined together with sticks, tied across the gunwales with strings of the New Zeeland flax-plant [47] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. III, p. 443. . Each part consisted of planks sowed together with ropes made of the flax-plant, and had a carved head coarsely representing a human face, with eyes made of round pieces of ear-shell, which somewhat resembled mother of pearl. This canoe contained two paddles, a basket full of berries of the coriaria ruscifolia Lin. and some fishes; but the natives were not to be seen or heard, which gave us reason to believe that they had retired into the woods. To conciliate their good will, we left some medals, looking-glasses, beads, &c. in the canoe, and embarked again after a short stay. We then rowed to the head of the cove, in order to survey it, where we found a fine brook of fresh water coming down on a flat beach, from whence the water continued shallow to a considerable extent, so that our boat ran aground several times. Ducks, shags, black oyster-catchers, and some sorts of plovers were very numerous here. At our return we visited the canoe again, added a hatchet to the other presents which we had left before, and to shew the use of it, we cut several chips out of a tree, and left it sticking there. No natives appeared this second time, though we imagined they could not be far off, as we thought we could smell the smoke of a fire. However, captain Cook desisted at present from searching in the woods, since they purposely avoided us, and choosing to leave it to time and their own free will to cultivate an intercourse with us, [Monday 29.]he returned on board late in the evening.

Heavy showers of rain fell all the next morning, but intermitted in the afternoon, giving us an opportunity of going into the woods above our cove, where the rains had so thoroughly soaked the soil, that together with the other impediments in walking in this country, the prodigious slipperiness rendered our excursion laborious and fatiguing. We met however with a few plants, which still shewed some late blossoms, notwithstanding the advanced season; but we were at the same time greatly tantalized by the appearance of numerous trees and shrubs, which had already lost their flowers and fruits, and only served to give us an idea of the great profusion of new vegetables in this country.

The two following days we were entirely confined on board, on account of the rain and stormy weather; which not a little damped our spirits, and gave us reason to fear we should spend the remainder of our time very disagreeably. [1773. April.] [Thursday 1.]However, on the 1st of April in the afternoon, we took the advantage of a lucid interval to make another visit to the cove where we had seen the Indians. We found every thing in the same situation as we had left it, and it did not appear that any person had been near the canoe since that time. The weather being now fair, we saw this cove in all its perfection. It is so spacious that a whole fleet of ships may lie at anchor in it, and some of the loftiest hills in all the bay encompass it on the south-west side, and are entirely covered with woods from the summit to the water's side. The different projecting points, and the various islands in the bay, form altogether a picturesque and pleasing scene. The smoothness of the water, illumined by the setting sun, the different degrees of verdure, and the various notes of birds which resounded throughout the whole cove during this calm evening, greatly softened the rude, uncultivated outlines of this landscape.

The pleasure we had enjoyed in the evening, induced us to return to the cove again the next day, which continued to be perfectly fair. We set out at sun-rise, and did not return till late in the evening, with a considerable acquisition of new birds, and plants. We had a young dog with us at this time, which the officers had taken on board at the Cape of Good Hope, and intended to try, whether we could not train him up to the gun: but we had no sooner discharged the first fowling-piece, than he ran into the woods, and would not return, though we used all possible means to recover him. Captain Cook likewise took the opportunity of the fair weather, to examine different parts of the bay; and touched at a little rock, near our first anchoring place, which had already at that time acquired the name of Seal-rock, from the animals that came to sleep upon it. Here he found a number of seals, and killed three of them, among which one afforded him great sport: for having been repeatedly wounded, it became quite furious, and attacked the boat, where it was at last killed. It weighed 220 pounds, was about six feet long, and very lean. After he had passed several isles, he reached the north-west part of the bay, formed by the land of Point Five-fingers: there, at the bottom of a fine cove, he found a great variety of acquatic birds, of which he killed and brought on board a considerable number.

Another rainy pause of three days followed this excursion, confining us to our ship, where a sort of little crane-flies ( tipula alis incumbentibus), which had plagued us ever since our entrance into Dusky Bay, became remarkably troublesome during the bad weather. They were numerous in the skirts of the woods, not half so large as gnats or musketoes, and our sailors called them sand-flies. Their sting was extremely painful, and as often as the hand or face grew warm, caused a troublesome itching, the least irritation of which brought on a very violent swelling, attended with great pain. We were, however, not all equally affected; myself in particular, never felt any great inconvenience from them; others, on the contrary, suffered in a very violent degree, especially my father, who could not hold a pen to write down the common occurrences in a journal, and fell into a high fever at night. Various remedies were tried, but all proved ineffectual, except the simple unction with soft pomatum, and the constant use of gloves.

[Tuesday 6.]Early on the 6th, several of the officers went into the cove, which the captain had discovered on the 2d; and the latter, accompanied by Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myself proceeded in another boat, to continue the survey of the bay, to copy views from nature, and to search for the natural productions of the country. We directed our course to the north side, where we found a fine spacious cove, from which we had not the least prospect of the sea. Along its steep shores we observed several small but beautiful cascades, which fell from vast heights, and greatly improved the scene; they gushed out through the midst of the woods, and at last fell in a clear column, to which a ship might lie so near, as to fill her casks on board with the greatest safety, by means of a leather tube, which the sailors call a hose. At the bottom there was a shallow muddy part, with a little beach of shell-sand, and a brook, as in all the greater coves of the bay. In this fine place we found a number of wild fowl, and particularly wild ducks of which we shot fourteen, from whence we gave it the name of Duck Cove. As we were returning home, we heard a loud hallooing on the rocky point of an island, which on this occasion obtained the name of Indian Island; and standing in to the shore, we perceived one of the natives, from whom this noise proceeded. He stood with a club or battle-axe in his hand, on a projecting point, and behind him, on the skirts of the wood we saw two women, each of them having a long spear. When our boat came to the foot of the rock, we called to him, in the language of Taheitee, tayo, harre maï, " friend, come hither;" he did not, however, stir from his post, but held a long speech, at certain intervals pronouncing it with great earnestness and vehemence, and swinging round his club, on which he leaned at other times. Captain Cook went to the head of the boat, called to him in a friendly manner, and threw him his own and some other handkerchiefs, which he would not pick up. The captain then taking some sheets of white paper in his hand, landed on the rock unarmed, and held the paper out to the native. The man now trembled very visibly, and having exhibited strong marks of fear in his countenance, took the paper: upon which Captain Cook coming up to him, took hold of his hand, and embraced him, touching the man's nose with his own, which is their mode of salutation. His apprehension was by this means dissipated, and he called to the two women, who came and joined him, while several of us landed to keep the captain company. A short conversation ensued, of which very little was understood on both sides, for want of a competent knowledge of the language. Mr. Hodges immediately took sketches of their countenances, and their gestures shewed that they clearly understood what he was doing; on which they called him óä-óä, that term being probably applicable to the imitative arts. The man's countenance was very pleasing and open; one of the women, which we afterwards believed to be his daughter, was not wholly so disagreeable as one might have expected in New Zeeland, but the other was remarkably ugly, and had a prodigious excrescence on her upper lip. They were all of a dark brown or olive complexion; their hair was black, and curling, and smeared with oil and ruddle; the man wore his tied upon the crown of the head, but the women had it cut short. Their bodies were tolerably well proportioned in the upper part; but they had remarkable slender, ill-made, and bandy legs. Their dress consisted of mats made of the New Zeeland flax-plant [48] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. III. p. 443. , interwoven with feathers; and in their ears they wore small pieces of white albatross skins stained with ruddle or ochre. We offered them some fishes and wild fowl, but they threw them back to us, intimating that they did not want provisions. The approaching night obliged us to retire, not without promising our new friends a visit the next morning. The man remained silent, and looked after us with composure and great attention, which seemed to speak a profound meditation; but the youngest of the two women, whose vociferous volubility of tongue exceeded every thing we had met with, began to dance at our departure, and continued to be as loud as ever. Our seamen passed several coarse jests on this occasion, but nothing was more obvious to us than the general drift of nature, which not only provided man with a partner to alleviate his cares and sweeten his labours, but endowed that partner likewise with a desire of pleasing by a superior degree of vivacity and affability.

[Wednesday 7.]The next morning we returned to the natives, and presented them with several articles which we had brought with us for that purpose. But so much was the judgment of the man superior to that of his countrymen, and most of the South Sea nations [49] See Hawkesworth's Compilation. , that he received almost every thing with indifference, except what he immediately conceived the use of, such as hatchets and large spike-nails. At this interview he introduced his whole family to us, consisting of two women, whom we supposed to be his wives; the young woman, a boy of about fourteen years of age, and three smaller children, of which the youngest was at the breast. One of the wives had the excrescence or wen on the upper lip, and was evidently neglected by the man, probably on account of her disagreeable appearance. They conducted us soon after to their habitation, which lay but a few yards within the wood, on a low hill, and consisted of two mean huts, made of a few sticks thatched with unprepared leaves of the flax-plant, and covered with the bark of trees. In return for our presents they parted with several of their ornaments and weapons, particularly the battle-axes, but they did not choose to give us their spears. When we were preparing to re-embark, the man came to the water-side, and presented to Captain Cook a dress made of the flax plant, a belt of weeds, some beads made of a little bird's bones, and some albatross skins. We were at first of opinion that these were only intended as a retribution for what he had received, but he soon undeceived us by shewing a strong desire of possessing one of our boat-cloaks [50] Boat-cloaks are commonly of prodigious dimensions and great width, so that the whole body may be wrapped into them several times. . We were not charitable enough to part with our cloaths, when we knew the deficiency could not be supplied again; but as soon as we came on board, Captain Cook ordered a large cloak to be made of red baize, which we brought to the man at our next visit.

[Thursday 8.]The rain prevented our going to him the next morning, but in the afternoon, the weather being a little more promising, we returned to Indian Island. However, at our approach, instead of being welcomed by the natives on the shore, we saw none of them, and received no answer when we shouted to them. We landed therefore, and having proceeded to their habitation, soon found the reason of this unusual behaviour. They were preparing to receive us in all their finery, some being already completely adorned, and others still busy in dressing. Their hair was combed, tied on the crown on the head, and anointed with some oil or grease; white feathers were stuck in at the top; some had fillets of white feathers all round the head, and others wore pieces of an albatross skin, with its fine white down in their ears. Thus fitted out, they shouted at our approach, and received us standing, with marks of friendship and great courtesy. The captain wore the new cloak of baize on his own shoulders, and now took it off and presented the man with it; he, on his part, seemed so much pleased with it, that he immediately drew out of his girdle a pattoo-pattoo, or short flat club made of a great fish's bone, and gave it to the Captain in return for so valuable an acquisition. We endeavoured to enter into conversation; but, though Captain Cook had taken Gibson, the corporal of marines, with him for that purpose, he being supposed to know more of the language [51] He was particularly versed in the language of the isle of O-Taheitee; and there is only a difference of dialect between it and the language of New Zeeland. than any other person on board, yet all our attempts to be understood proved fruitless, because it seemed this family had a peculiar harshness of pronunciation. We therefore took leave of them, and proceeded to survey different parts of the bay, fishing at intervals, shooting birds, and collecting shells, and other marine productions among the rocks. The weather was cloudy all this time, though it did not rain where we were; but when we returned to our ship's cove, we were told it had rained there incessantly in our absence. The same observation we had frequent opportunities of making during our sojourn in Dusky Bay. The probable cause of this difference of weather at such little distances, are the high mountains which run along the south shore of the bay, gradually sloping towards the west cape. These mountains being almost constantly capped with clouds, our cove, which lay immediately under, and was surrounded by them, was of course exposed to the vapours, which perpetually appeared moving with various velocities along the sides of the hills, involving the tops of the trees over which they passed in a kind of white semi-opaque mist, and descending upon us at last in rains or in fogs which wetted us to the skin. The isles in the northern part not having such high hills to attract and stop the clouds coming from the sea, permitted them to pass freely on to the very bottom of the bay to the Alps, which we saw covered with perpetual snow. The two next days the rains were so heavy that no work could be done; the perpetual moisture which descended in this place caused such a dampness in all parts of our vessel, as could not fail to become very unwholesome, and to destroy all the collections of plants which had been made. Our sloop lying so near the shore, which was steep and shaggy with over-hanging woods, was involved in almost constant darkness, even in fair weather, and much more so during the fogs and rains, so that we were obliged to light candles at noon. But the constant supply of fresh fish considerably alleviated these disagreeable circumstances, and, together with the spruce-beer and the myrtle-tea, contributed to keep us healthy and strong even in this damp climate. We were now indeed become perfect ichthyophagi, for many amongst us entirely lived upon fish. The fear of being cloyed with this delicious food, often set us at work to invent new methods of preparing it, in order to deceive the palate; and we accordingly made soups, and pasties, boiled, fried, roasted, and stewed our fishes. But it was pleasant to observe, that all the arts of cookery only tended to surfeit the sooner, for those who wisely confined themselves to plain boiling in sea water, always did honour to their meals;

As if increase of appetite had grown

By what it fed on.

_______ Shakespeare.

But what was more singular than all, was, that in order to prevent any dislike to our food, we confined ourselves, among a great variety of different sorts, chiefly to one species of fishes, which our sailors from its dark colour, called the coal-fish, and which in taste nearly resembled our English cod, being of the same genus. Its meat was firm, juicy, and nutritive; but not so rich and fat as that of many other species, which we found very delicious, but could not continually feed upon. A very fine species of crayfish ( cancer homarus Lin.) larger than the lobster, some shell-fish, and now and then a cormorant, duck, pigeon, or parrot gave us an agreeable variety at our table, which, compared to its appearance when at sea, was now luxurious and profuse.

Every person in our sloop experienced the good effects of this change of diet; nay every animal on board seemed to be benefited by it, except our sheep, which were not likely to fare so well as ourselves. The nature of the country accounts for this disagreeable circumstance. The whole southern extremity of Tavai-poe-namoo, or the southern island of New Zeeland, and especially the land about Dusky Bay consists entirely of steep rocky mountains, with craggy precipices, clad with thick forests, and either barren or covered with snow on their summits. No meadows and lawns are to be met with, and the only flat land we found, was situated at the head of deep coves, where a brook fell into the sea, which probably by depositing the earth and stones it brought from the hills, had formed this low and level ground. But even there the whole was over-run with woods and briars, and we could not find a single spot of ground which might have afforded pasture, the grass which grew on some beaches being very hard and coarse. However, after we had taken pains to furnish our sheep with the freshest sprouts which we could meet with, we were surprised that they would not touch any of them: but upon examination we found that their teeth were loose, and that many of them had every symptom of an inveterate sea scurvy. Of four ewes and two rams which captain Cook brought from the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to put them on shore in New Zeeland, we had only been able to preserve one of each sex, and these were in so wretched a condition, that their further preservation was very doubtful. If future navigators means to make such valuable presents, as cattle of any sort to the inhabitants of the South Sea, the only probable method of bringing them safely thither, would be to take the shortest route possible from the Cape to New Zeeland, in the middle latitudes, and in the best of seasons, when they may expect a quick passage, and no severe cold.

On the 11th, the sky being clear and serene promised a fair day, which was very much wanted, in order to dry our sails and linen, as we had not been able to do either since our arrival in this bay. We likewise obtained the use of a boat, in order to increase the number of our observations on the productions of nature. We directed our course to the cove where we had seen the first canoe of the natives, and particularly to a water-fall, which we had observed from afar a few days ago, and which had induced us to call this inlet Cascade Cove. This water-fall, at the distance of a mile and a half, seems to be but inconsiderable, on account of its great elevation; but after climbing about two hundred yards upwards, we obtained a full prospect of it, and found indeed a view of great beauty and grandeur before us. The first object which strikes the beholder, is a clear column of water, apparently eight of ten yards in circumference, which is projected with great impetuosity from the perpendicular rock, at the height of one hundred yards. Nearly at the fourth part of the whole height, this column meeting a part of the same rock, which now acquires a little inclination, spreads on its broad back into a limpid sheet of about twenty-five yards in width. Here its surface is curled, and dashes upon every little eminence in its rapid descent, till it is all collected in a fine bason about sixty yards in circuit, included on three sides by the natural walls of the rocky chasm, and in front by huge masses of stone irregularly piled above each other. Between them the stream finds its way, and runs foaming with the greatest rapidity along the slope of the hill to the sea. The whole neighbourhood of the cascade, to a distance of an hundred yards around, is filled with the steam or watery vapour formed by the violence of the fall. This mist however was so thick, that it penetrated our clothes in a few minutes, as effectually as a shower of rain would have done. We mounted on the highest stone before the bason, and looking down into it, were struck with the sight of a most beautiful rainbow of a perfectly circular form, which was produced by the meridian rays of the sun refracted in the vapour of the cascade. Beyond this circle the rest of the steam was tinged with the prismatic colours, refracted in an inverted order. The scenery on the left consists of steep, brown rocks, fringed on the summits with over-hanging shrubs and trees; on the right there is a vast heap of large stones, probably hurried down from the impending mountain's brow, by the force of the torrent. From thence rises a sloping bank, about seventy-five yards high, on which a wall of twenty-five yards perpendicular is placed, crowned with verdure and shrubberies. Still farther to the right, the broken rocks are clothed with mosses, ferns, grasses, and various flowers; nay several shrubs, and trees to the height of forty feet, rise on both sides of the stream, and hide its course from the sun. The noise of the cascade is so loud, and so repeatedly reverberated from the echoing rocks, that it drowns almost every other sound; the birds seemed to retire from it to a little distance, where the shrill notes of thrushes, the graver pipe of wattle-birds, and the enchanting melody of various creepers resounded on all sides, and completed the beauty of this wild and romantic spot. On turning round we beheld an extensive bay, strewed as it were with small islands, which are covered with lofty trees; beyond them on one side, the mountains rise majestic on the main land, capt with clouds and perpetual snow; and on the other, the immense ocean bounded our view. The grandeur of this scene was such, that the powers of description fall short of the force and beauty of nature, which could only be truly imitated by the pencil of Mr. Hodges, who went on this voyage with us; and whose performances do great credit and honour to his judgment and execution, as well as to the choice of his employers. Satisfied with the contemplation of this magnificent sight, we directed our attention next to the flowers which enlivened the ground, and the small birds which sung very cheerfully all round us. We had as yet found neither the vegetable nor animal creation so beautiful, or so numerous, in any part of this bay; perhaps, because the strong refraction of the sun-beams from the perpendilar walls of rock, and the shelter from storms, made the climate considerably more mild and genial in this spot than in any other part. The soil was in nothing different here from that in other parts round the bay, but seemed to be the same vegetable mould; and the rocks and stones about the cascade consisted of masses of granite, or moor-stone ( saxum), and of a kind of brown talcous clay-stone, in strata, which is common to all New Zeeland.

We returned on board before sun-set, well pleased with our acquisitions during this excursion. At our return we were told, that the Indian family, whom we had seen paddling into the cove, in the morning, in their best attire, had gradually approached the ship with great caution. Captain Cook meeting them in a boat, quitted it, and went into their canoe, but could not prevail on them to come along side of the ship, and was obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they went ashore, in a little creek hard by ours, and afterwards came and sat down on the shore abreast of the vessel, to which they were near enough to be heard, and spoken to. The captain gave orders to play the fife and bagpipe, and to beat the drum; but they entirely disregarded the two first, and were not very attentive to the last, nor could any thing induce them to come on board. Several of our officers and seamen then going on shore to them, were received with great good-nature, and attempted to converse with them by signs, which were for the most part unintelligible, or misunderstood. However, the young woman shewed a great partiality to a young seaman, and from her gestures it was supposed she took him for one of her own sex; but whether he had taken some improper liberties, or whether she had any other reason to be disgusted, she would never suffer him to come near her afterwards. We likewise went on shore to them, after returning from our excursion, and the man desiring us to sit down by him, frequently pointed at our boats that plyed between the ship and the shore, and it appeared that he was desirous of possessing one of them. They staid all night about a hundred yards from our watering place, lighted a fire, and dressed some fish there, thus evidently placing great confidence in us. In the evening a party of officers set out in a small boat, to the north side of the bay, where they intended to pass the night, and continue shooting all the next day.

[Monday 12.] Captain Cook, accompanied by my father, went in his boat the next morning, to survey the rocks and isles in the mouth of the bay. They entered a fine snug cove, on the S. E. side of the island, under which we had found our first anchorage, and which was therefore named Anchor Island. Here they sat down by the side of a pleasant brook, and made a slight repast on some boiled craw-fish, which they had brought with them. From thence they proceeded to the outermost islands, where they discovered a number of seals on the rocks, shot fourteen of them with ball, which they carried away with them, and might have killed many more had the surf permitted them to land upon all the rocks in safety. The seals in Dusky Bay are all of the species called sea-bears [52] Phoca ursina Linn. Ursine Seal, Pennant. Syn. Quad. 271. , which professor Steller first described on Bering's Island near Kamtchatka, and which are consequently common to both hemispheres. They are very numerous on the southern extremities of the continents of America and Africa, likewise at New Zeeland, and on Diemen's Land. The only difference we could perceive between these at Dusky Bay, and those described at Kamtchatka, consisted in the size, in respect of which ours were inferior. They found it difficult to kill them, and many, though grievously wounded, escaped into the sea, and tinged the rocks and the water with their blood. Their meat, which is almost black, and their heart and liver were eatable, the former, by the help of a good appetite, and a little imagination, might be eaten for beef, and the last were perfectly similar to a calf's pluck. We were, however, obliged to cut away every bit of fat, before we dressed the meat, which otherwise had an insupportable taste of train-oil. Captain Cook availed himself of this opportunity of laying in a provision of lamp-oil, which was boiled out of the seals fat: he also ordered the skins to be made use of for repairing our rigging.

[Tuesday 13.]The success of the preceding day encouraged him to make another trip to the Seal Islands, on which my father accompanied him again; but the sea ran so very high, that it was by no means practicable to come near, and much less to land on them. With a great deal of difficulty they weathered the S.W. point of Anchor Island, where the sea tumbled in with great impetuosity, and was so much agitated, as to affect the mariners with sickness. They then rowed along the north shore of that island, where the captain landed to take the bearings of different points. It happened very fortunately, that they had taken this route; for they now discovered the small boat adrift, which set off from the sloop on the 11th in the evening, and laid hold of it the moment before it was going to be dashed against the rocks. The boat was immediately secured in a small creek, and after refreshing the people with some provisions which they found in it, captain Cook proceeded to the place where he supposed the party of officers to be, from whom it was drifted away. Between seven and eight in the evening they reached the cove, and found them on a small island, to which they could not then approach, because the tide had left it. They landed therefore on an adjacent point, and after many fruitless attempts, at length succeeded in making a fire. Here they broiled some fish, and after supper lay down; the stony beach was their bed, and their covering the canopy of heaven.

At three o'clock in the morning the tide permitted them to take the sportsmen from their barren island; after which they immediately sailed with a fair wind, accompanied with showers of rain, to the cove where they had secured the other boat. Here they found an immense number of petrels of the bluish species, common over the whole southern ocean [53] See page 91. , some being on the wing, and others in the woods, in holes under ground formed between the roots of trees and in the crevices of rocks, in places not easily accessible, where they probably had their nests and young. In day time, not one of them was to be seen there, the old ones then being probably out at sea in quest of food. they now saw them going out for that purpose, and two days ago they had been observed at the Seal Islands, returning in the evening in order to feed their young with the food which they had collected. They now heard a great variety of confused sounds coming from the sides of the hill, some very acute, others like the croaking of frogs, which were made by these petrels. At other times we have found innumerable holes on the top of one of the Seal Islands, and heard the young petrels making a noise in them; but as the holes communicated with each other it was impossible to come at one of them. We had already frequently observed the old petrels flying about us in the evening, when we returned late from our excursions, but till now they had always been taken for bats. They have a broad bill, and a blackish stripe across their bluish wings and body, and are not so large as the common shear-water or Mank's petrel of our seas. The instinct is very wonderful which actuates these birds to burrow holes under ground for their young, to roam all over the ocean in quest of food for their support, and to find their way to the shore when they are several hundred leagues distant from it.

Having replaced the sportsmen in their boat, they all proceeded to the ship, which they reached at seven in the morning, not a little fatigued from the night's expedition. The natives, probably foreseeing the bad weather, which continued all this day, had left the place they occupied near the ship on the preceding night, and had retired to their habitations on Indian Island.

[Thursday 15.]The weather cleared up a little on the 15th in the morning. Captain Cook therefore set out to continue his survey of the N. W. part of the bay, and we accompanied a party of officers to the cove in that part where we intended to take up our quarters for the next night. In our way we rowed along-side of our fishing-boat, which constantly went out in the morning to provide all our crew with their dinner, and took in a sail which we stood in need of. We were surprised to see the young black dog in the boat with them, which ran away from us on the 2d instant; and were told, that, taking their station near the shore, at day-break they had heard a very piteous howling on the next point, and had found the dog, which came into the boat very readily as soon as they put in shore. Though this animal had been in the woods during a fortnight, yet it was by no means famished, but on the contrary looked well fed and very sleek. A large species of rails, which we called water-hens, and which are very numerous in this part of New Zeeland, with perhaps some shell-fish on the rocks, or some dead fish thrown up by the sea, had in all probability afforded it sufficient support. We may from hence conclude, that as there is abundance of food for carnivorous animals in New Zeeland, they would probably be very numerous if they existed there at all, and especially if they were endowed with any degree of sagacity, like the fox, or cat tribes. In that case they could not have escaped the notice of our numerous parties, nor of the natives, and the latter would certainly have preserved their furrs, as a valuable article of dress in their most and raw climate, for want of which they now wear the skins of dogs and of birds. The question, whether New Zeeland contained any wild quadrupeds, had engaged our attention from our first arrival there. One of our people, strongly persuaded that so great a country could not fail of possessing new and unknown animals, had already twice reported that he had seen a brown animal, something less than a jackal or little fox, about the dawn of morning, sitting on a stump of a tree near our tents, and running off at his approach. But as this circumstance has never been confirmed by any subsequent testimony, nothing is more probable than that the want of day-light had deceived him, and that he had either observed one of the numerous wood-hens, which are brown, and creep through the bushes very frequently; or that one of our cats, on the watch for little birds, had been mistaken for a new quadruped.

Having taken the sail on board, we continued our course, and began our researches in the cove, where we killed many ducks of four different species. One of them was remarkably beautiful, and of the size of the eider duck. Its plumage was of a blackish brown, elegantly sprinkled with white; all the coverts of the wing were white, the rump and vent ferruginous, the quill and tail-feathers black, and the secondaries green. Another species was nearly of the size of our mallard, but all of a light-brown, every feather being edged with a yellowish white, of which there was a line on the cheek and eye-brows; the eyes of this sort had irides of a bright yellow, and on the wings there was a spot of fine bluish green inclosed in black lines. The third sort was a bluish grey whistling duck, about the size of a wigeon; its bill had a remarkable membranaceous substance at the extremity on both sides, probably because the bird is intended to live by sucking the worms, &c. in the mud, when the tide retires from the beaches. Its breast was sprinkled with ferruginous feathers, and on the wings it had a large white spot. The fourth and most common sort is a small brown duck, which is nearly the same as the English gadwall. A little before dark, the captain, having examined all the harbours which lay in his way, shot a number of wild fowl, and caught fish sufficient for all our party, arrived at our rendezvous, where we had erected a tent, by means of the sails and oars. Our keen appetites dispensed with the arts of cookery, and our fish broiled à l'Indienne, over a strong fire, on a bit of a stick, tasted as deliciously as we could desire. With this supper, and a draught of spruce-beer, of which we had carried a small keg with us, we composed ourselves to sleep, and contrived to pass the night, though not quite so comfortably as in our beds. The next morning a boat went up to the head of the cove to start the game, which was done so effectually that almost all the wild-ducks escaped, the rain having wetted all our fire-arms. The captain now landed in the cove, and walked across a narrow isthmus, which separates it from another cove on the north side of the Five-finger Land. Here he found a prodigious number of the water-hens before mentioned, and brought away ten couple of them, which recompensed him for the trouble of crossing the isthmus, through intricate woods, where the water was frequently up to the waist. At nine o'clock we were all assembled again, and set out on our return to the ship; but as we continued examining every creek and harbour which we found on our way, and encreasing our collection of wild-fowl, we did not return till seven o'clock in the evening. We brought seven dozen of various sorts of birds with us, among which were near thirty ducks, and immediately distributed them to the several messes of officers, petty-officers, and seamen, as far as they would go. We may take this opportunity to observe, that there is no part of New Zeeland so well stocked with birds of all kinds as Dusky Bay. We found several sorts of wild-ducks, shags, corvorants, oyster-catchers or sea-pies, water or wood-hens, albatrosses, gannets, gulls, pinguins, and others of the aquatic kind. The land-birds were hawks, parrots, pigeons, and many lesser ones of new and unknown species. The parrots were of two sorts; one small and green, and the other very large, greyish-green, with a reddish breast. As the birds of that genus are commonly confined to the warmer climates, we were much surprised to find them in the latitude of 46°, exposed to the raw rainy weather, which the height of the mountains almost constantly produces in Dusky Bay.

[Sunday 18.]The next day was so rainy, that none of us could venture to stir out of the sloop; but the day after proving a very fine one, my father went up the hill, along the course of the brook, from which we filled our casks. About half a mile upwards, through ferns, rotten trees, and thick forests, he came to a fine lake of fresh water nearly half a mile in diameter. Its water was limpid and well tasted, but had acquired a brownish hue, from the leaves of trees which dropped into it on all sides, he observed no other inhabitant in it than a small species of fish ( esox), without scales, resembling a little trout; its colour was brown, and mottled with yellowish spots in the shape of some ancient Asiatic characters. The whole lake was surrounded by a thick forest, consisting of the largest trees, and the mountains rose all round it in a variety of forms. The environs were deserted and silent, not the least note of the common birds was heard, for it was rather cold at this elevation; and not a single plant had blossoms. The whole scene was perfectly fitted to inspire a kind of pleasing melancholy, and to encourage hermit-meditation. The fine weather induced our friends the natives to pay us another visit; they took up their quarters on the same spot, where they had been this day sevennight, and when they were again invited to come on board, they promised to come the next morning. In the mean while they had a quarrel among themselves, the man beat the two women who were supposed to be his wives; the young girl in return struck him, and then began to weep. What the cause of this disagreement was, we cannot determine; but if the young woman was really the man's daughter, which we could never clearly understand, it should seem that the filial duties are strangely confounded among them; or which is more probable, that this secluded family acted in every respect, not according to the customs and regulations of a civil society, but from the impulses of nature, which speak aloud against every degree of oppression.

[Monday 19.]In the morning, the man resolved to come on board with the young woman, but sent the rest of his family a-fishing in the canoe. He walked with her round the cove, to the place where we had made a stage or temporary bridge from the vessel to the shore. Before they entered upon this, they were conducted to a place on the hill, where we kept our sheep and goats, which they seemed to be much surprised with, and desired to possess; but as we foresaw that they must die for want of proper food if we left them here, we could not comply with this request. Captain Cook, and my father met them at the stage, and this man after saluting them with his nose against theirs, gave each of them a new cloak or piece of cloth made of the flax-plant, curiously interwoven with parrot's feathers, and presented the captain with a piece of green nephritic stone, or jadde [54] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 286. , which was formed into the blade of a hatchet. Before he stepped on the bridge, he turned aside, put a piece of a bird's shin with white feathers through the hole in one of his ears, and broke off a small green branch from a neighbouring bush. With this he walked on, and stopping when he could just reach the ship's sides with his hand, struck them and the main-shrouds several times with his branch. He then began to repeat a kind of speech or prayer, which seemed to have regular cadences, and to be metrically arranged as a poem; his eyes were fixed upon the place he had touched, his voice was raised, and his whole behaviour grave and solemn. The young woman, though at other times laughing and dancing, now kept close to the man and was serious all the while he spoke, which lasted about two or three minutes; at the close of his speech he struck the ship's side again, threw the branch into the main chains, and came abroad. This manner of delivering solemn orations, and making peace, is practised by all the nations which have been seen in the South Sea before our voyage, as appears from the testimonies of various voyagers. But the man and woman had a spear in their hands when they were conducted on the quarter-deck; there they admired every thing they saw: a few geese in our coops particularly attracted their attention; a handsome cat, was likewise much courted, but they always stroked it the wrong way, so as to make the hair stand upright, though we showed them to do it in a contrary direction; probably they admired the richness of the furr. The man looked upon every new object with surprize, but as his attention could not be fixed to any one object for more than a single moment, many of our works of art must have appeared to him as incomprehensible, as those of nature. However, the number and strength of our decks and of other parts of our vessel engrossed his admiration more than any thing else. The girl, seeing Mr. Hodges, whose pencil she had much admired, made him a present of a piece of cloth, of the same kind as those which the man had given to captain Cook and my father. This custom of making presents is not so usual in other parts of New Zeeland, as in the tropical islands: but it appears on the whole, that this family were not always guided by national customs, but took such measures as prudence and integrity suggested in their situation, which left them at the mercy of a greater force. We desired them to come into the cabin, and after a long debate among themselves, they accepted the invitation, and descended by the ladder. Here they admired every thing, and were particularly pleased to learn the use of chairs, and that they might be removed from place to place. They were presented with hatchets by the captain and my father, and received a great number of trinkets of less value. These last the man laid down in a heap, and would have gone away without them, had we not reminded him of them; whereas he never let a hatchet or spike-nail go out of his hand, after he had once taken hold of it. They saw us sit down to our breakfast, and were seated near us; but all our intreaties could not prevail on them to touch our victuals. They likewise expressly inquired where we went to sleep, and the captain showed them his cot, which was suspended, at which they were mightily pleased. From the cabin they proceeded to the gun-room, on the deck below; and having received several presents there, they returned to the captain again. The man now pulled out a little leather bag, probably of seals skin, and having, with a good deal of ceremony, put in his fingers, which he pulled out covered with oil, offered to anoint captain Cook's hair; this honour was however declined, because the unguent, though perhaps held as a delicious perfume, and as the most precious thing the man could bestow, yet seemed to our nostrils not a little offensive; and the very squalid appearances of the bag in which it was contained, contributed to make it still more disgustful. Mr. Hodges did not escape so well; for the girl, having a tuft of feathers, dipt in oil, on a string round her neck, insisted upon dressing him out with it, and he was forced to wear the odoriferous present, in pure civility. We left them to amuse themselves in the other parts of the ship, and set out in two boats, with the captain and several officers, to examine a long inlet, which ran to the east-ward, in sight of our cove. In proportion as we receded from the sea, we found the mountains much higher, more steep, and barren: the trees gradually diminished in height and circumference, and dwindled to shrubs, contrary to what is observed in other parts of the world, where the inland countries have finer forests and better timber than the sea shores. The interior ranges of mountains called the Southern Alps, appeared very distinctly, of a great height, and covered with snow on their summits. We passed by a number of shady islands, which contained little coves and rivulets; and on one of the projecting points, opposite the last island, we saw a fine cascade falling into the water, over a steep rock, clothed with thick bushes and trees. The water was perfectly calm, polished, and transparent; the landscape was distinctly reflected in it, and the various romantic shapes of the steep mountains, contrasted in different masses of light and shade, had an admirable effect. About noon we put into a small cove, where we caught some fish, and shot a few birds. From thence we rowed again till dusk, when we entered a fine cove, at the extremity of this long arm, and were obliged to take up our quarters on the first beach we could land upon, after being prevented by shoals from proceeding to the head of the cove. There we thought we perceived something similar to a smoke, but finding nothing to confirm this opinion, and especially seeing no fire at night, we readily acquiesced in the idea of having been deceived by some misty vapour, or other object, which we might have indistinctly seen. We prepared with great alacrity to pass the night here, and no one was excepted from his task on these occasions. As it may be curious to know the nature of our marooning parties, as our seamen called them, I shall here give some account of our proceedings this night. Having found a beach to land on, with a brook, and a wood close to it, our first care was to bring on shore the oars, sails, cloaks, guns, hatchets, &c. not forgetting a little keg of spruce-beer, and perhaps a bottle of strong liquor. The boats were next secured at a grappling, and with a rope made fast to a tree on shore. Some of us were then busied in collecting dry pieces of wood for fuel, which in such a wet country as New Zeeland, was sometimes very difficult; some erected a tent or wigwam, made of the oars and sails together with strong branches of trees, in a convenient dry spot, sheltered as much as possible, in case of wind and rain. Others lighted the fire in front of the tent, by burning some oakum, in which they had previously rubbed a quantity of gun-powder. The preparations for supper were very short: some of the sailors cleaned our fishes, skinned the water-fowl, split, and lastly broiled them; when they were dressed, one of the boat's gang-boards, washed clean, answered the several purposes of a table, of dishes, and plates; and our fingers and teeth did yeoman's service, instead of knives and forks. A keen appetite, procured by strong exercise, and excited by the sharp air of the country, soon taught us to overcome the ideas of indelicacy, which civilized nations connect with this way of living; and we never so strongly felt how little is wanting to satisfy the cravings of the stomach, and to support the existence of human beings, as on these occasions. After supper we listened a while to the original comic vein of our boat's crew, who huddled round the fire, made their meal, and recited a number of droll stories, intermixed with hearty curses, oaths, and indecent expressions, but seldom without real humour. Then strewing our tent with heaps of fern leaves, and wrapping ourselves in our boat-cloaks, with our guns and shooting-bags for our pillows, we composed ourselves to sleep.

At day-break Captain Cook and my father, with two men, went in a small boat to take a view of the head of the cove, where they saw some flat land. They went on shore upon it at one corner, and ordered the boat to meet them at the opposite point. They had not walked a great way before they saw some wild-ducks, and, by creeping through the bushes, came near enough to fire and kill one of them. The moment they had fired they heard a hideous shout of several loud and piercing voices round about them from different quarters. They shouted in their turn, and taking up the duck retired towards the boat, which was full half a mile off. The natives continued their clamours, but did not follow them; for indeed a deep branch of a river was between them, and their numbers were too inconsiderable to attempt hostilities; but these circumstances we only learnt in the sequel. We had in the mean while taken a ramble into the woods in search of plants; but hearing the shout of the natives, we embarked immediately in the remaining boat and joined the other, which by this time had taken Captain Cook and my father on board. We therefore proceeded up into a river, which was deep enough for the boats, and amused ourselves with shooting ducks, which were here in great plenty. We now saw a man, woman, and child on the left shore, and the woman waved to us with a white bird's skin, probably in sign of peace and friendship. On this occasion I could not help admiring, that almost all nations on our globe have tacitly agreed upon the while colour, or upon green branches, as tokens of a peaceable disposition, and that with these in their hands they confidently rely on a stranger's placability. Perhaps this general agreement had its origin anterior to the universal dispersion of the human species; this will seem the more probable when it is considered, that neither the white colour, nor the green boughs of a tree, have any intrinsic character, to which the idea of amity is naturally and necessarily referred. Our boat being nearest to these natives, Captain Cook desired the officer in it to land, and accept their proferred friendship, whilst he meant to take the advantage of the tide to get as high up in the river as possible. Whether the officer did not understand Captain Cook's meaning, or whether he was too deeply engaged with duck-shooting, we did not land; and the poor people, to all appearance apprehensive of the worst consequences, from a set of men who rejected their proposals of peace, fled into the woods with the utmost precipitation. The Captain in the mean while rowed about half a mile higher, where his boat was stopped by the violence of the stream, and by several huge stones which lay across the bed of the river, and redoubled the rapidity of the water. Here, however, he found a new species of ducks, the fifth we had observed in Dusky Bay. Its size was something less than that of a teal, the colour of a shining greenish black above, and a dark sooty grey below; it had a purple cast on the head, a lead-coloured bill and feet, a golden eye, and a white bar in the lesser quill feathers. On Captain Cook's return to us, we perceived two men in the woods along the bank opposite to that where we had seen the friendly family. The captain endeavoured to form an acquaintance with them, but when the boat came close along shore, they always retired into the woods, which were so thick, that they not only covered them from our sight, but also made it unadviseable to follow them. The ebbing tide obliged us to retire out of this river to the place where we had spent the night; and, after breakfasting there, we embarked in order to set out on our return to the Resolution. However, when we had scarce put off, we perceived the two natives, who had walked across the woods to an open spot, from whence they halloo'd to us. The captain immediately ordered both the boats to row up to them, and coming into shallow water, he got out unarmed, attended by two men, and waded to the shore, with a sheet of white paper in his hand. The two natives stood about one hundred yards from the water's side, each of them with a long spear in his hand. When the captain advanced with his two men they retired; he then proceeded alone, but could not prevail on them to lay aside their spears. At last one of them stuck his spear in the ground, and taking a bunch of grass in his hand met the captain, and giving him one end of the grass to hold while he kept the other, he pronounced a solemn speech in a loud tone of voice, during a minute or two, in which he made several pauses, perhaps waiting for a reply. As soon as this ceremony was over, they saluted each other, and the New Zeelander took a new garment from his own shoulders and presented it to the captain, for which he received a hatchet in return. Peace and friendship being thus firmly established, the other man likewise came up to salute the captain, and was presented with a hatchet; and several of us came ashore to them, at which they were not the least alarmed, but received every new comer with great cordiality. We now perceived several other natives, probably women, on the skirts of the wood, and the two men earnestly intreated us to go up to their habitations, intimating by signs, that they would give us something to eat there; but the tide and other circumstances did not permit us to accept their invitation. When we had taken leave of them, the two men followed us to our boats, where they desired us to remove the muskets which lay across the stern, and having complied with their request, they came along-side, and assisted us to launch the boats, which were aground on account of the ebb. We found however that it was necessary to have an eye upon them, because they seemed to covet the possession of every thing they saw or could lay hands on, except the muskets, which they would not touch, being taught to respect them as instruments of death, on account of the havock they had seen us make among the wild-fowl. We observed no canoes among them, and their only means of transporting themselves across the river, was on a few logs of wood connected together into a kind of raft, which was perfectly sufficient for that purpose. Fish and wild-fowl were in such plenty here, that they can have little occasion to roam to any distance in quest of them, as their numbers did not seem to exceed three families; and the whole bay being almost entirely destitute of inhabitants, one single family more excepted, they need not be apprehensive of disturbance from bad neighbours. The features of these men were rather wild, but not ill-favoured; their complexion resembled that of the family on Indian Island, of a mahogany brown; their hair bushy, and their beards frizled and black. They were of a middling stature and stout, but their legs and thighs very slender, and their knees too much swelled in proportion. Their dress and general behaviour seemed to be the same as that of the other family before mentioned. The courage of this people has something singular in it, for it should seem, that in spight of their inferiority of force, they cannot brook the thought of hiding themselves, at least not till they have made an attempt to establish an intercourse, or prove the principles of the strangers who approach them. It would have been impossible for us, among the numerous islands and harbours, and in the mazy forests upon them, to have found out the family which we saw on the Indian Island, if they had not discovered themselves, and thus made the first advances. We might also have departed from the cove without knowing that it was inhabited, if the natives had not shouted at the discharge of our muskets. In both cases a certain openness and honesty, appear strongly to mark their character; for if it had the least admixture of treachery, they would have tried to fall upon us unawares, as they could not have failed of meeting with frequent opportunities of cutting off our numerous small parties, when dispersed in different parts of the woods.

It was noon when we left these two men, and proceeded down on the north side of the long arm, of which captain Cook took the bearings in his way. The night overtook us before he had completed his survey; so that we were forced to leave another arm unexplored, and to hasten to the vessel, which we reached about eight o'clock at night. We were told that the native with his companion, the young woman, had staid on board till noon, after our departure; and having been informed, that we had left some presents in his double canoe in Cascade Cove, he employed some of his people to bring them away from thence, after which the whole family remained in the neighbourhood of the ship till this morning. They then took their departure, and we never saw them again, which was the more extraordinary, as they never went away empty handed from us, but had at different times received nine or ten hatchets, and four times that number of large spike nails, besides other articles. As far as these things may be counted riches among them, this man was the wealthiest in all New Zeeland, being possessed of more hatchets, than there were in the whole country besides, before the second arrival of British vessels. The thin population in this part of the island makes it probable, that the few families in it lead a nomadic or wandering life, and remove according as the season, the conveniency of fishing, and other circumstances render it necessary. We were therefore of opinion, that our friendly family had only removed upon this principle; but we were likewise told that before they went away, the man had made signs of going to kill men, and employing the hatchet as an offensive weapon. If this circumstance was rightly understood, we cannot sufficiently wonder that a family so secluded from all the rest of the world, in a spacious bay, where they have a superfluity of food, and of all the necessaries of life, the fewness of their wants considered, should still have a thought of warring with their fellow-creatures, when they might live peaceably and happily in their retirement. The pleasing hope of facilitating the œconomical operations of these people, and of encouraging some degree of agriculture among them, by presenting them with useful tools, was defeated by this determination. The state of barbarism, in which the New Zeelanders may justly be said to live, and which generally hearkens to no other voice than that of the strongest, might make them more liable than any other nation to resolve upon the destruction of their fellow-citizens, as soon as an opportunity offered; and their innate and savage valour may probably assist them to put such projects in execution. On this occasion, I cannot omit mentioning a remarkable instance of courage which characterised the old man who had now left us; our officers having fired several musquets in his presence, he became desirous of discharging one himself, which they easily granted; the young woman, supposed to be his daughter, fell prostrate on the ground before him, and entreated him, with the strongest marks of fear, to desist from his undertaking; but he was not to be diverted from his purpose, and fired the musquet with the greatest resolution, repeating it afterwards three or four times. This warlike disposition, together with the irascible temper of the whole nation, that cannot brook the least injury, is probably the cause which has induced his single family, and the few in the long inlet we had visited, to separate from the rest of their fellow-creatures. All the disputes of savage people commonly terminate in the destruction of one of their parties, unless they evade it by a well-timed flight: this may have been the case of the inhabitants of Dusky Bay, and admitting it, their design of going to fight, is no more than a project of being revenged on their foes and oppressors.

[Friday 23.] On the 23d, early in the morning, several officers, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, went to Cascade Cove, in order to ascend one of the highest mountains in the bay, which was situated on one side of it. About two o'clock they reached the summit, which they made known to us by lighting a great fire there. We should have accompanied them on this excursion, but a violent flux attended with gripes confined us on board. It was owing to the carelessness of our cook, who had suffered our copper kitchen-furniture to become full of verdigrise. In the evening however, we went to meet our travellers in Cascade Cove, and after searching the woods some time for plants and birds, we brought them on board with us. At night the fire had spread in a bright circular garland all round the summit of the mountain, and made a very elegant illumination in honour of St. George's day. Our party related that they had a prospect of the whole bay, and of the sea beyond the mountains to the south, S. W. and W. N. W. for more than twenty leagues all round them, the weather being remarkably fine and clear. The inland mountains were very barren, and consisted of huge broken and craggy masses, all covered with snow on their summits; the top of that on which they stood, afforded several low shrubs and various alpine plants, which we had seen no where else. A little lower down they saw a taller shrubbery; below this a space covered with dry or dead trees, and next to those the living woods began, which increased in size as they descended. The ascent had been fatiguing enough, on account of the intricacy of briars and climbers, but the descent also was dangerous, because of many precipices which they met on their way, and along most of which they contrived to slide down by the help of trees and bushes. At a considerable height they met with three or four trees, which they took for palms, and of which they cut down one, and used its middlemost shoot for their refreshment. These trees, however, were not the true cabbage palms, nor did they belong at all to the class of palms, which are generally confined to more temperate climates. They were properly speaking, a new species of dragon-trees, with broad leaves, ( dracœna australis) of which the central shoot when quite tender, tastes something like an almond's kernel, with a little of the flavour of cabbage. We afterwards observed more of them in other parts of this bay.

The next morning I accompanied captain Cook to the cove on the N.W. part of the bay, which from the transaction of this day, received the name of Goose Cove. We had five tame geese left, of those which we had taken on board at the Cape of Good Hope, and these we intended to leave in New Zeeland to breed, and run wild. This cove was looked upon as the most convenient place for that purpose, since there were no inhabitants to disturb them, and because it afforded an abundance of proper food. We set them on shore, and they immediately ran to feed in the mud, at the head of the cove where we left them, pronouncing over them the crescite & multipliciamini, for the benefit of future generations of navigators and New Zeelanders. There can be little doubt indeed, but that they will succeed in this secluded spot, and in time spread over the whole country, answerable to our original intention. The rest of this day was spent in shooting, and among the different birds killed was a white heron ( ardea alba), common to Europe.

The fair weather, which had lasted eight days successively, was entirely at an end on [Sunday 25.]the 25th, when the rain set in again towards evening, and continued till the next day at noon. [Monday 26.]We had reason to believe such a continuance of dry weather very uncommon in Dusky Bay, and particularly at this season, because we never experienced above two fair days one after another, either before or after this week. We had, however, improved this opportunity to complete our wood and water, and put the sloop in condition to go out to sea, and having taken on board all our men, we cast off our bridge, and removed out of the creek, into the middle of our cove, ready to sail with the first fair wind. The superiority of a state of civilization over that of barbarism could not be more clearly stated, than by the alterations and improvements we had made in this place. In the course of a few days, a small part of us had cleared away the woods from a surface of more than an acre, which fifty New Zeelanders, with their tools of stone, could not have performed in three months. This spot, where immense numbers of plants left to themselves lived and decayed by turns, in one confused inanimated heap; this spot, we had converted into an active scene, where a hundred and twenty men pursued various branches of employment with unremitted ardour:

Quales apes ӕstate nova per florea rura

Exercet sub sole labor.

Virgil.

Such was their toil, and such their busy pains,

As exercise the bees in flowery plains,

When winter past and summer scarce begun,

Invites them forth to labour in the sun.

Dryden.

We felled tall timber-trees, which, but for ourselves, had crumbled to dust with age; our sawyers cut them into planks, or we split them into billets for fuel. By the side of a murmuring rivulet, whose passage into the sea we facilitated, a long range of casks, which had been prepared by our coopers for that purpose, stood ready to be filled with water. Here ascended the steam of a large cauldron, in which we brewed, from neglected indigenous plants, a salutary and palatable potion, for the use of our labourers. In the offing, some of our crew appeared providing a meal of delicious fish for the refreshment of their fellows. Our caulkers and riggers were stationed on the sides and masts of the vessel, and their occupations gave life to the scene, and struck the ear with various noises, whilst the anvil on the hill resounded with the strokes of the weighty hammer. Already the polite arts began to flourish in this new settlement; the various tribes of animals and vegetables, which dwelt in the unfrequented woods, were imitated by an artist in his noviciate; and the romantic prospects of this shaggy country, lived on the canvas in the glowing tints of nature, who was amazed to see herself so closely copied. Nor had science disdained to visit us in this solitary spot: an observatory arose in the centre of our works, filled with the most accurate instruments, where the attentive eye of the astronomer contemplated the motions of the celestial bodies. The plants which clothed the ground, and the wonders of the animal creation, both in the forests and the seas, likewise attracted the notice of philosophers, whose time was devoted to mark their differences and uses. In a word, all around us we perceived the rise of arts, and the dawn of science, in a country which had hitherto lain plunged in one long night of ignorance and barbarism! But this pleasing picture of improvement was not to last, and like a meteor, vanished as suddenly as it was formed. We re-imbarked all our instruments and utensils, and left no other vestiges of our residence, than a piece of ground, from whence we had cleared the wood. We sowed indeed a quantity of European garden seeds of the best kinds; but it is obvious that the shoots of the surrounding weeds will shortly stifle every salutary and useful plant, and that in a few years our abode no longer discernible, must return to its original chaotic state.

A new passage out to sea, to the northward, was discovered on the 27th; and it being more convenient for our purpose, than that by which we entered, we weighed on [Thursday 29.]the 29th in the afternoon, in order to stand up the bay towards it. However, the wind falling calm, we were obliged to come to again in 43 fathom, under the north side of an island which we named Long Island, about two leagues from our cove. [Friday 30.]At nine the next morning we proceeded with a light breeze at west, which with all our boats towing a-head, was scarce sufficient to stem the current; for after struggling till six in the evening, we had gained no more than five miles, and anchored under the same island, only a hundred yards from the shore.

[1773. May.][Saturday 1.]At daylight the next morning we attempted to work to windward, having a gentle air down the bay, but the breeze dying away, we lost ground, and came with the stern so close to the shore, that our ensign-staff was entangled in the branches of trees, on a perpendicular rock, close to which we could find no bottom. We were towed off without receiving any damage, and dropt an anchor below the place we set out from, in a little cove on the north side of Long Island. Here we found two huts, and two fireplaces, which seemed to prove that the place had lately been inhabited. During our stay here, we discovered several new birds and fish; and indeed caught some fish which are common to Europe, viz. the horse-mackarel, the greater dog-fish, and the smooth hound [55] Scomber trachurus, squalus canis, & sq. mustelus, Linn. . The captain was taken ill of a fever and violent pain in the groin, which terminated in a rheumatic swelling of the right foot, contracted probably by wading too frequently in the water, and sitting too long in the boat after it, without changing his cloaths.

[Tuesday 4.] We were detained in this cove by calms, attended with continual rains, till the 4th in the afternoon, when, assisted by a light breeze at S. W. we entered the reach or passage leading out to sea. The breeze coming a-head just at that time obliged us to anchor again under the east point of the entrance, before a sandy beach. These little delays gave us opportunities of examining the shores, from whence we never failed to bring on board new acquisitions to the vegetable and animal system. During night we had heavy squalls of wind, attended with rain, hail, and snow, and some loud thunder claps. [Wednesday 5.]Day-light exhibited to our view all the tops of the hills round us covered with snow. At two o'clock in the afternoon a light breeze sprung up at S. S. W. which carried us down the passage, though not without the help of our boats, to the last point near the opening into the sea, where we anchored at eight in the evening. The shores on both sides of the passage were steeper than any we had seen before, and formed various wild landscapes, ornamented with numerous little cascades, and many dragon-trees ( dracœna).

[Thursday 6.]The captain being confined to the cabin by his rheumatism, sent an officer, accompanied by my father and myself, to explore the southernmost arm, which ran up eastward from our new passage into the interior country. During our absence he ordered the Resolution to be well cleaned and aired with fires between decks, a precaution which ought never to be neglected in a moist and raw climate.

We rowed up this new inlet, were delighted with many cascades on both sides of it, and found a number of good anchoring places, with plenty of fish and wild-fowl. However, the woods consisted chiefly of shrubberies, and began to look very bare, the leaves being mostly shed, and what remained looking faded of a pale yellow colour. These strong marks of approaching winter seemed to be peculiar to this part of the bay, and it is probable that the adjacent high mountains, all which were now crowned with snow, caused their premature appearance. We put into a little cove about two o'clock to broil a few fishes for our dinner, and then went on till it was dark, taking up our night's quarters on a little beach, almost at the head of the inlet. Here we made a fire, but slept very little on account of the cold of the night and the hardness of our pillows. [Friday 7.]The next morning we saw a cove, with a little flat land, to the north of us, which formed the end of this spacious inlet or arm, about eight miles from its entrance. Here we amused ourselves with shooting for some time, and then set out to return towards the Resolution; but the fair weather which had favoured us hitherto, was now succeeded by a storm at N. W, which blew in hard squalls, attended with violent showers of rain. We made shift to row down the arm into the entrance which led to the sloop, and there sharing the remains of a bottle of rum among our boat's crew, by way of encouragement, we entered the hollow sea in the passage. The violence of the wind, and the height of the short waves were such, that in spight of our utmost efforts we were thrown above half a mile to leeward in a few minutes, and narrowly escaped being swamped. With the greatest difficulty we regained the inlet out of which we had passed, and about two o'clock in the afternoon we put into a small snug cove, at its north entrance. After securing our boat in the best manner possible, we climbed on a bleak hill, where we made a fire on a narrow rock, and attempted to broil some fishes; but though we were soaked with rain, and severely cut by the wind, yet it was impossible for us to keep near our fire, of which the flames were continually whirled about in a vortex by the storm, so that we were forced to change our places every moment, in order to escape being scorched or burnt. The storm now encreased to such a violence, that we could hardly stand on this barren spot; and therefore it was resolved, for our own and the boat's greater safety, to cross the cove, and take up our night's quarters in the woods immediately under the lee of the high mountains. Every one of us seized a firebrand and stepped into the boat, where we made a formidable appearance, as if we were bound on some desperate expedition. To our great disappointment the woods were almost worse than the rock we had left, being so wet that it was with the utmost difficulty our fire would burn; we had no shelter from the heavy rains which came down upon us in double portions from the leaves; and the wind not allowing the smoke to ascend, we were almost stifled with it. Here we lay down on the moist ground, wrapped in wet cloaks thoroughly soaked and cold, supperless, and tormented with rheumatic pains; and, notwithstanding all these inconveniences, fell asleep for a few moments, being entirely exhausted with fatigue. But about two o'clock we were roused by a loud thunder-clap. The storm was now at its height, and blew a perfect hurricane. The roar of the waves at a distance was tremendous, and only overcome at times by the agitation of the forests, and the crashing fall of huge timber-trees around us. We went to look after our boat, and at that instant a dreadful flash of lightning illuminated the whole arm of the sea; we saw the billows foaming, and furiously rolled above each other in livid mountains; in a word, it seemed as if all nature was hastening to a general catastrophe.

Non han piu gli elementi ordine o segno,

S'odono orrendi tuoni, ognor piu cresce

De' fieri venti il furibondo sdegno.

Increspa, e inlividisce il mar la faccia,

E s'alza contra il ciel che lo minaccia.

Tassoni.

The lightning was instantaneously followed by the most astonishing explosion we had ever heard, reverberated from the broken rocks around us; and our hearts sunk with apprehension lest the ship might be destroyed by the tempest or its concomitant ӕtherial fires, and ourselves left to perish in an unfrequented part of the world. In this dismal situation we lingered out the night, which seemed the longest we had ever known. [Saturday 8.]At last about six in the morning the violence of the storm abated, we embarked about day break, and reached the vessel soon after, which had been obliged to strike yards and top-masts. The inlet we had now surveyed, received the name of Wet Jacket Arm, from the dreadful night we passed in it. There now remained only one inlet to the northward of this unexplored; and captain Cook, finding himself recovered, set out, immediately after our return, to examine it. He proceeded up about ten miles, and saw nearly the end of this arm, which like the other, contains good harbours and plenty of fresh water, wood, fish, and wild fowl. On his return his people had the wind and heavy rains to struggle with, and all returned on board thoroughly wet, at nine in the evening. [Sunday 9.]The next morning the sky being clear, but the wind unfavourable for going out to sea, we accompanied captain Cook once more on a shooting party up the new arm, where we spent the whole day, and met with tolerable good sport; but another party, who had taken a different route, came back almost empty-handed.

The wind continuing westerly and blowing very hard, the captain did not think it adviseable to put to sea; but it falling moderate in the afternoon, he made an excursion to an island in the entrance, on which were abundance of seals. He and his party killed ten of them, of which they took five on board, leaving the rest behind them.

[Tuesday 11.]The next morning it was pretty clear, the air very cold and sharp, and all the hills covered with snow almost half way down to the water, so that the winter was now fairly set in. A boat was sent to fetch off the seals killed last night, which had been left behind; and in the mean time we weighed and sailed from Dusky Bay, getting clear of the land at noon.

The stay which we had made here for six weeks, and four days, together with the abundance of fresh provisions which we enjoyed, and the constant exercise we used, had contributed to recover all those who had been ill of the scurvy at our arrival, and given new strength to the rest. However it is much to be doubted, whether we should have preserved our health so well as we did, without the use of the fermented liquor or spruce-beer which we brewed. The climate of Dusky Bay, is I must own, its greatest inconvenience, and can never be supposed a healthy one. During the whole of our stay, we had only one week of continued fair weather, all the rest of the time the rain predominated. But perhaps the climate was less noxious to Englishmen than to any other nation, because it is analogous to their own. Another inconvenience in Dusky Bay is the want of celery, scurvy-grass, and other antiscorbutics, which may be found in great plenty at Queen Charlotte's sound, and many parts in New Zeeland. The intricate forests which clothe the ground, the prodigious steepness of the hills, which on that account are almost incapable of cultivation, and the virulent bite of sand-flies, which causes ulcers like the small-pox, are certainly disagreeable circumstances; but of small consequence to those who only put in here for refreshment, when compared to the former. With all its defects, Dusky Bay in one of the finest places in New Zeeland, for a set of people to touch at in our situation, exhausted with labours and hardships of long continuance, and deprived of the sight of land above four months. Nothing is more easy than to sail into it, there being no danger except what is visible above water, and so many harbours and coves existing in every part of it, that it is impossible to miss a convenient anchoring-place, where wood, water, fish, and wild-fowl are to be found in plenty.

CHAP. VI.

Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound - Function with the Adventure. - Transactions during our stay there.

[1773. May.][Tuesday 11.]HAVING hoisted in our boat, which returned loaden with seals, we stood to the northward, with a heavy S. W. swell, and numerous footy albatrosses and blue petrels attending us. As we advanced along shore, the mountains seemed to decrease in height, and in four and twenty hours the thermometer rose 7 1/2degrees, having been at 46° on the day after we left Dusky Bay, and standing at 53 1/2° the next morning at eight o'clock. [Thursday 13.]

On the 14th, being off Cape Foul-wind, our favourable gale left us, as if it meant to authenticate the propriety of the denomination, and we really had a contrary wind. It blew a hard gale all the 16th, [Sunday 16.]attended with heavy rains, and we kept plying the whole day, making one of our boards close in shore under Rock's Point.

At four o'clock in the morning on the 17th we stood to the eastward with a fair wind, so that we were abreast of Cape Farewell at eight o'clock. Here we saw the land appearing low and sandy near the sea-shore, though it rose into high snow-capt mountains in the interior parts. Vast flocks of the little diving petrel, ( procellaria tridactyla), were seen fluttering on the surface of the sea, or sitting on it, or diving to considerable distances with amazing agility. They seemed exactly the same which we had seen on the 29th of January and the 8th of February, in the latitude of 48° S. when we were in search of M. Kerguelen's Islands.

In the afternoon, about four o'clock, we were nearly opposite Cape Stephensined on all the southern parts of that cape. On a sudden a whitish spot appeared on the sea in that quarter, and a column arose out of it, looking like a glass tube; another seemed to come down from the clouds to meet this, and they made a coalition, forming what is commonly called a water-spout. A little while after we took notice of three other columns, which were formed in the same manner as the first. The nearest of all these was about three miles distant, and its apparent diameter, as far as we could guess, might be about seventy fathom at the base. We found our thermometer at 56 1/2 when this phӕnomenon first took its rise. The nature of water-spouts and their causes being hitherto very little known, we were extremely attentive to mark every little circumstance attendant on this appearance. Their base, where the water of the sea was violently agitated, and rose in a spiral form in vapours, was a broad spot, which looked bright and yellowish when illuminated by the sun. The column was of a cylindrical form, rather encreasing in width towards the upper extremity. These columns moved forward on the surface of the sea, and the clouds not following them with equal rapidity, they assumed a bent or incurvated shape, and frequently appeared crossing each other, evidently proceeding in different directions; from whence we concluded, that it being calm, each of these water-spouts caused a wind of its own. At last they broke one after another, being probably too much distended by the difference between their motion and that of the clouds. In proportion as the clouds came nearer to us, the sea appeared more and more covered with short broken waves, and the wind continually veered all round the compass, without fixing in any point. We soon saw a spot on the sea, within two hundred fathom of us, in a violent agitation. The water, in a space of fifty or sixty fathoms, moved towards the centre, and there rising into vapour, by the force of the whirling motion, ascended in a spiral form towards the clouds. Some hailstones fell on board about this time, and the clouds looked exceedingly black and louring above us. Directly over the whirl-pool, if I may so call the agitated spot on the sea, a cloud gradually tapered into a long slender tube, which seemed to descend to meet the rising spiral, and soon united with it into a strait column of a cylindrical form. We could distinctly observe the water hurled upwards with the greatest violence in a spiral, and it appeared that it left a hollow space in the centre; so that we concluded the water only formed a hollow tube, instead of a solid column. We were strongly confirmed in this belief by the colour, which was exactly like any hollow glass-tube. After some time the last water-spout was incurvated and broke like the others, with this difference, that its disjunction was attended with a flash of lightning, but no explosion was heard. Our situation during all this time was very dangerous and alarming; a phӕnomenon which carried so much terrific majesty in it, and connected as it were the sea with the clouds, made our oldest mariners uneasy and at a loss how to behave; for most of them, though they had viewed water-spouts at a distance, yet had never been so beset with them as we were; and all without exception had heard dreadful accounts of their pernicious effects, when they happened to break over a ship. We prepared indeed for the worst, by cluing up our topsails; but it was the general opinion that our masts and yards must have gone to wreck if we had been drawn into the vortex. It was hinted that firing a gun had commonly succeeded in breaking water-spouts, by the strong vibration it causes in the air; and accordingly a four-pounder was ordered to be got ready, but our people being, as usual, very dilatory about it, the danger was past before we could try this experiment. How far electricity may be considered as the cause of this phӕnomenon, we could not determine with any precision; so much however seems certain, that it has some connection with it, from the flash of lightning, which was plainly observed at the bursting of the last column. The whole time, from their first appearance to the dissolution of the last, was about three quarters of an hour. It was five o'clock when the latter happened, and the thermometer then stood at 54° or 2 1/2degrees lower, than when they began to make their appearance. The depth of water we had under us was thirty-six fathom. The place we were in was analogous to most places where water-spouts have been observed, inasmuch as it was in a narrow sea or strait. Dr. Shaw and Thevenot saw them in the Mediterranean and Persian Gulph; and they are common in the West-Indies, the Straits of Malacca, and the Chinese sea. Upon the whole, we were not fortunate enough to make any remarkable discoveries in regard to this phӕnomenon; all our observations only tend to confirm the facts already noticed by others, and which are so largely commented upon by the learned Dr. Benjamin Franklin, F.R.S. His ingenious hypothesis, that whirlwinds and water-spouts have a common origin, has not been invalidated by our observations. We refer our philosophical readers to his papers, as containing the most complete and satisfactory account of water-spouts [56] See his Experiments on Electricity, &c. 4to. fifth edition, London, 1774. .

[Tuesday 18.]About five o'clock the next morning we opened Queen Charlotte's Sound, and about seven we saw three flashes rising from the south end of the Motu-Aro, where a hippah, or strong hold of the natives, was situated, which is described in Lieutenant Cook's voyage in the Endeavour [57] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 395, 400. . We immediately conceived that they were signals made by Europeans, and probably by our friends in the Adventure; and upon firing some four-pounders, had the pleasure of being answered out of the Ship Cove, opposite the island. Towards noon we could discern our old consort at anchor; and soon after were met by several of her officers, who brought us a present of fresh fish, and gave us an account of what had happened to them after our separation. In the afternoon it fell calm, so that we were obliged to be towed into the cove, where we anchored at seven in the evening. In the mean time Captain Furneaux came on board, and testified his satisfaction at rejoining us, by a salute of thirteen guns, which our people cheerfully returned. Those who have been in situations similar to ours, may form an adequate idea of the reciprocal pleasure which this meeting produced. It was heightened on both sides, by the recent impressions of accumulated dangers to which our separate courses had exposed us, and which under Providence we had happily escaped.

The Adventure, after losing our company, had continued her course to the northward of us, between the latitudes of 50° and 54° south, experiencing very heavy gales from the westward during the whole time. On the 28th of February, being in about 122° of longitude west from Greenwich, Captain Furneaux thought it adviseable gradually to descend into the latitude of Diemen's Land, or the extremity of New Holland, discovered by Abel Janssen Tasman in November 1642. On the 9th of March he fell in with the S. W. part of this coast, and running along its southern extremity, came to an anchor on the 11th in the afternoon, in a bay on the east side, which he called Adventure Bay, and which is probably the same where Tasman lay at anchor, distinguished by the name of Frederick Henry Bay. The southern extremities of this coast consisted of large broken masses of barren and blackish rocks, resembling the extreme points of the African and American continents. The land round the bay rose in sandy hillocks, of which the innermost were covered with various sorts of trees, rather remote from each other, and without any brush-wood. They also found a lake of fresh water on the west side, covered with great flocks of wild-ducks and other aquatic fowls. Several islands in the offing to the N. E. along shore, were of a moderate height, and likewise covered with wood. Tasman probably took them for one great island, which in his charts bears the name of Maria's Island. The Adventure lay only three days in this bay, during which Captain Furneaux took in a small quantity of fresh water, and collected several curious animals, among which was a species of Viverra, and a fine white hawk. Our Europeans perceived no inhabitants during their stay, but thought they observed some smoke at a great distance in the country.

On the 15th in the evening they weighed and sailed out of Adventure Bay, standing along shore to the northward. They found it consisted of sandy hills of a moderate height, but saw at the same time some much higher in the interior country. At different parts of this coast they met with several islands, particularly those which Tasman named Schouten's and Vander Lyn's Islands. About the latitude of 41° 15' south, they opened a little bay, which, on account of several fires, probably lighted by the natives, they named the Bay of Fires. They continued examining the coast, not without running some danger from numerous shoals, till the 19th of March at noon, when being in the latitude of 39° 20' south, and still seeing the land about eight leagues to the north-westward, they concluded that Diemen's Land was connected with the continent of New Holland and directed their course towards the rendezvous at New Zeeland. However, as they had been obliged, by the frequency of shoals, to keep out of sight of the coast several times, and there remained a space of twenty leagues from the northernmost land they had seen, to Point Hicks, the southern boundary of captain Cook's discoveries in the Endeavour; it is still undetermined, whether a strait or passage does not exist between the main of New Holland and Diemen's Land, though the appearance of quadrupeds upon the latter, rather seems to favour the idea of their being connected together. Be this as it may, there is perhaps no part of the world which so well deserves future investigation as the great continent of New Holland, of which we do not yet know the whole outline, and of whose productions we are in a manner entirely ignorant. Its inhabitants, from the accounts of all the voyagers who have visited them, are but few in number, probably dwell on the sea-coasts only, go perfectly naked, and seem by all description to lead a more savage life than any nation in warm climates. There is consequently a vast interior space of ground, equal to the continent of Europe, and in great measure situated between the tropics, entirely unknown, and perhaps uninhabited: nothing is more certain, from the vast variety of animal and vegetable productions, collected on its sea-coasts in captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour, than that the inner countries contain immense treasures of natural knowledge, which must of course become of infinite use to the civilized nation, which shall first attempt to go in search of them. The south-west corner of this continent, which hitherto remains wholly unexplored, may perhaps open a way to the heart of the country; for it is not likely, that so great an extent of land, situated under the tropic, should be destitute of a great river, and no part of the coast seems better situated than that for its passage into the sea.

After leaving this coast, the Adventure continued fifteen days at sea, on account of contrary winds, and at length made the coast of New Zeeland, near Rock's Point, on the southern island, on the third of April, at six in the morning, and came to an anchor at Ship Cove, Queen Charlotte's Sound, on the 7th.

During their stay here, they had made the same establishments on shore as we had done at Dusky Bay, except the brewery, which they were not yet acquainted with. They had found the hippah, or strong-hold of the natives, at the southern end of Motu-Aro forsaken, and their astronomer had fixed his observatory upon it. The inhabitants of this sound, who amount to some hundred persons, in several distinct and independent parties, often at variance with each other, had begun an intercourse with them, and paid them several visits, coming from the interior parts. They had been extremely well received, and did not hesitate to come on board, where they eat freely of the sailor's provisions, showing a particular liking to our biscuits, and pease-soup. They had brought with them great quantities of their clothing too, and weapons, which they eagerly exchanged for nails, hatchets and cloth.

On the 11th of May, being the same day we sailed out of Dusky Bay, several of the Adventure's people, who were at work on shore, or dispersed on shooting parties, distinctly felt a shock of an earthquake; but those who remained on board, did not perceive any thing of it. This circumstance may serve to evince the probability of volcanoes on New Zeeland, as these two great phӕnomena on our globe seem to be closely connected together.

We arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, at the time when the Adventure's crew began to despair of ever meeting with us again, and had made preparations to spend the whole winter in this harbour, in order to proceed to the eastward, with the ensuing spring, to explore the South Sea in high latitudes. Captain Cook, however, was by no means inclined to lie inactive during so many months, especially as he knew, that considerable refreshments were to be had at the Society Isles, which he had visited in his former voyage. He therefore gave directions to put both sloops in condition to go to sea, as soon as possible; and the Resolution being entirely prepared for that purpose, her crew assisted that of the Adventure for the sake of greater dispatch.

[Wednesd. 19.]We began our excursions the day after our arrival, and found the productions of the forests very similar to those of Dusky Bay, but the season and climate infinitely more favourable to our botanical researches. We were fortunate enough to meet with several species of plants still in flower, and also found some birds, which we had not seen before. But the antiscorbutic plants, which grew on every beach, gave this port the most distinguished advantage over our first place of refreshment. We immediately gathered vast quantities of wild celery, and of a well-tasted scurvy-grass ( lepidium) which were daily boiled with some oat-meal or wheat for breakfast, and with pease-soup for dinner; and the people on board the Adventure, who had hitherto not known the use of these greens, now followed our example. We also found a species of sow-thistle ( sonchus oleraceus), and a kind of plant which our people called lamb's quarters, ( tetragonia cornuta [58] See Hawkesworth, vol. III. p. 442. ), which we frequently used as sallads; and if we had not such plenty of wild-fowl and fishes as at Dusky Bay, we were amply recompensed by these excellent vegetables. The spruce and the tea-tree of New Zeeland likewise grew in great plenty hereabouts, and we taught our friends to make use of both for their refreshment.

[Thursday 20.]The next day we went to the Hippah, or fortification of the natives, where Mr. Bailey, the astronomer of the Adventure had fixed his observatory. It is situated on a steep insulated rock, which is accessible only in one place, by a narrow difficult path, where two persons cannot go abreast. At the top it had been surrounded by some palisadoes, but these were in most parts removed, and had been used for fuel by our people. The huts of the natives stood promiscuously within the enclosure, and had no walls, but consisted only of a roof, which rose into a steep ridge. The inner skeletons of these huts were branches of trees plaited so as to resemble hurdles; on these they had laid the bark of trees, and covered the whole with the rough fibres of the flag, or New Zeeland flax-plant. We were told, that the people from the Adventure had found them exceeding full of vermin, and particularly fleas, from which it should seem that they had been but lately inhabited; and indeed it is not unlikely, that all these strong places are only the occasional abode of the natives, in case of danger from their enemies; and that they forsake them, whenever their personal safety does not require their residence. Our fellow-voyagers likewise found immense numbers of rats upon the Hippah rock, so that they were obliged to put some large jars in the ground, level with the surface, into which these vermin fell during night, by running backwards and forwards; and great number of them were caught in this manner. It is therefore very probable, that rats are indigenous in New Zeeland, or at least that their arrival there, is prior to its discovery by European navigators. Captain Furneaux shewed us several spots of ground on the top of this rock, which he had ordered to be dug, and on which he had sown a great variety of garden-seeds; these succeeded so well that we frequently had sallads, and many dishes of European greens at our table, notwithstanding the season of winter was now far advanced. But the climate in this part of New Zeeland is extremely mild, when compared to that of Dusky Bay; and notwithstanding the vicinity of the snowy mountains, I am inclined to believe it seldom freezes hard in Queen Charlotte's Sound; at least we experienced no frost during our continuance there to the 6th of June.

[Saturday 22.]On the 22d we went over to an island in the sound, to which captain Cook had given the name of Long Island in his former voyage. It consists of one long ridge, of which the sides are steep, and the back or top nearly level, though in most places very narrow. On its N. W. side we saw a fine beach, surrounding a little piece of flat land, of which the greatest part was marshy, and covered with various grasses; the rest was full of antiscorbutics, and the New Zeeland flax-plant ( phormium), growing round some old abandoned huts of the natives. We cleared some spots of ground here, and sowed European garden seeds on them, which we thought were likely to thrive in this place. We also climbed to the top of the ridge, which we found covered with dry grasses, intermixed with some low, shrubby plants; and among them a number of quails exactly like those of Europe, had their residence. Several deep and narrow glens which ran down the sides of the ridge to the sea, were filled with trees, shrubs, and climbers, the haunt of numerous small birds, and of several falcons; but where the cliffs were perpendicular, or hanging over the water, great flocks of a beautiful sort of shags, built their nests on every little broken rock, or if possible in small cavities about a foot square, which seemed in a few instances to be enlarged by the birds themselves. The argillaceous stone, of which most of the hills about Queen Charlotte's Sound consisted, is sometimes sufficiently soft for that purpose. It runs in oblique strata, commonly dipping a little towards the south, is of a greenish-grey, or bluish, or yellowish-brown colour, and sometimes contains veins of white quartz. A green talcous or nephritic stone, is also found in this kind of rock, and when very hard, capable of polish, and semi-transparent; it is used by the natives for chissels, hatchets, and sometimes for pattoo-pattoos: it is of the same species which jewellers call the jadde. Several softer sorts of this stone, perfectly opaque, and of a pale green colour, are more numerous than the flinty semi-transparent kind; and several species of horn-stone and argillaceous slate likewise are seen running in great strata through some of the mountains. The latter is commonly found in great quantity, and broken pieces, on the sea beeches, and is what our seamen call shingle, by which name it is distinguished in the account of captain Cook's former voyage. On these beaches we also met with several sorts of flinty stones and pebbles, and some loose pieces of black, compact, and ponderous basaltes, of which the natives form some of their short clubs, called pattoo-pattoos. In many places we likewise saw strata of a blackish saxum Lin. consisting of a black and compact mica or glimmer, intermixed with minute particles of quartz. The argillaceous slate is sometimes found of a rusty colour, which seems evidently to rise from irony particles; and from this circumstance, and the variety of minerals just enumerated, there is great reason to suppose that this part of New Zeeland contains iron ore, and perhaps several other metallic bodies. Before we left this place, we found some small pieces of a whitish pumice-stone on the sea-shore, which, together with the basaltine lava, strongly confirm the existence of volcanoes in New Zeeland.

[Sunday 23.]On the 23d in the morning, two small canoes came towards us, in which were five men of the natives, the first we had seen since the arrival of our sloop in this harbour. Their appearance was nearly the same as that of the Dusky Bay people, with this difference, that they seemed much more familiar and unconcerned. We bought some fish of them, and likewise made them some presents, conducting them into the cabin, as they did not hesitate to come on board. Seeing us sit down to dinner, they freely partook of our provisions, but drank pure water, refusing to touch either wine or brandy. They were so restless, that they removed from our table to that of the officers in the steerage, where they likewise eat with great appetite, and drank great quantities of water sweetened with sugar, of which they were remarkably fond. Every thing they saw, or could lay hands upon they coveted, but upon the least hint, that we either could not, or would not part with what they had taken up, they laid it down without reluctance. Glass bottles, which they called taw-haw, were however particularly valuable to them; and whenever they saw any of them, they always pointed to them, and then moved the hand to their breast, pronouncing the word mòkh, by which they used to express their desire of possessing any thing. Among the variety of little presents we made them they did not notice beads, ribbons, white paper, &c. but were very eager after iron, nails, and hatchets; a proof that the intrinsic value of these tools cannot fail to make an impression on the minds of these people in the long run, though they were at first indifferent to them, as not knowing their use and durability. Some of our people having made use of their canoes in the afternoon to transport themselves to the shore, they came into the cabin complaining to the captain, whose authority over the rest they very well conceived; and their embarkations being restored to them, they all went away highly pleased.

[Monday 24.]The next morning at day-break they returned, but brought four other persons with them, one of them a woman, with some children, and traded as usual about the ships. The captains embarked with us after breakfast, in order to visit an extensive inlet on the northern shore of the sound, which was called West Bay in the Endeavour's voyage. On our way we met a double canoe, manned with thirteen persons, who, coming along side, made acquaintance with Captain Cook, and seemed to recollect him, by enquiring for Tupaya, the native of O-Taheitee, whom he had taken on board during his former voyage, and who had lived to visit this country with him. When they were told that he was dead, they seemed much concerned, and pronounced some words in a plaintive tone. We made signs for them to go on board the vessels lying in Ship Cove; but when they saw us going on to the south, they returned to the cove from whence they came.

We found the country not quite so steep as at the southern extremity of New Zeeland, and the hills near the sea-side were in general of an inferior height. In most parts, however, they were covered with forests, equally intricate and impenetrable as those of Dusky Bay, but containing a greater number of pigeons, parrots, and small birds, which perhaps abandon that rude climate during the cold season, and pass their winter in these milder regions. Oyster-catchers or sea-pies, and various sorts of shags, likewise enlivened the sea shores here, but ducks were extremely scarce. West Bay contains a number of fine coves, each of which affords excellent anchorage; the hills rise gently all round it, covered with shrubs and trees, and many of their summits are clear of woods, but overgrown with a common species of fern, ( acrosticum furcatum). This is likewise the case with many islands in the sound, and great part of the south-east shore of the sound from Cape Koamaroò to East Bay. After collecting a number of new plants, among which was a species of pepper, very much resembling ginger in the taste, and shooting many birds of all sorts, we returned on board late in the evening.

The launch, which had been sent out in the morning to an adjacent cove, in order to cut greens for the ship's company and some grass for our goats and sheep, did not return that day; but staying out all the next likewise, we began to be very uneasy about the twelve people in her, among whom were our third lieutenant, the lieutenant of marines, Mr. Hodges, the carpenter, and the gunner. Our apprehensions were the most just, as the wind and weather had been favourable for their return from almost any part of the bay, till the morning of the 25th; soon after which it began to be very rainy and stormy. On the day we had gone to West Bay, a large canoe with twelve of the natives came from the north to our ship, and after selling a variety of their dresses, some stone hatchets, clubs, spears, and even paddles, they returned the way they came.

On the 26th, after noon, the weather being somewhat cleared up, our launch arrived on board, but all the people in her were exhausted with fatigue and hunger. All the provision they had taken out with them consisted of three biscuits and a bottle of brandy; and they had not been able to succeed in catching a single fish during the tempestuous weather. After being tossed about by the waves, attempting in vain to return to the vessels, they had put into a cove, on which they found a few deserted huts of the natives, where they took shelter, and just kept themselves from starving by eating a few muscles that adhered to the rocks.

The next morning we made our researches round the bottom of the cove, in quest of plants and birds; and in the afternoon we went out along the rocky shores towards Point Jackson, to kill some shags, which we had now learnt to relish instead of ducks. Between these two excursions we received another visit of the Indian family, whom we had seen before, on the 23d. They seemed to be come for no other purpose than that of eating with us, having brought nothing with them to exchange for our iron-work. We now enquired for their names, but they were a long time before they could understand us; however, comprehending our meaning at last, they gave us a collection of words, which had a singular mixture of gutturals and vowels. The oldest among them was called Towa-hà;ngha; the other Kotughâ-a, Koghoäà, Khoäà, Kollàkh, and Taywaherùa. This last was a boy about twelve or fourteen years of age, who had a very promising countenance, and seemed to be the liveliest and most intelligent among them. He came into the cabin and dined with us, eating very voraciously of a shag-pye, of which, contrary to our expectation, he preferred the crust. The captain offered him some Madeira wine, of which he drank something more than one glass, making a great many wry faces at first. A bottle of a very sweet Cape wine being brought upon the table, a glass was filled out to him, which he relished so well that he was continually licking his lips, and desired to have another, which he likewise drank off. This draught began to elevate his spirits, and his tongue ran on with great volubility. He capered about the cabin, insisted on having the captain's boat-cloak, which lay on a chair, and was much vexed at the refusal; he next desired one of the empty bottles, and this request likewise proving fruitless, he went out of the cabin highly offended. On deck he saw some of our servants folding up linen which had been hung out to dry, and immediately seized on a table-cloth; but this being taken from him, his passion was at the highest pitch, he stamped, threatened, then grumbled, or rather grunted awhile, and at last became so sullen that he would not speak a word. The impatient temper of this nation never appeared more distinctly than in this boy's conduct; but at the same time we had room to consider, seeing the effect of strong liquors upon him, how fortunate it was that they were used to no kind of intoxicating draught, which would perhaps serve to make their temper still more fierce and ungovernable than it is at present.

[Saturday 29.]About thirty natives surrounded us in several canoes the next morning, and brought a few of their tools and weapons to sell, for which they received great quantities of our goods in exchange, owing to the eagerness with which our crews outbid each other. There were a number of women among them, whose lips were of a blackish blue colour, by punctuation; and their cheeks were painted of a lively red, with a mixture of ruddle and oil. Like those at Dusky Bay, they commonly had slender and bandy legs, with large knees; defects which evidently are deducible from the little exercise they use, and their mode of sitting cross-legged and cramped up almost perpetually in canoes. Their colour was of a clear brown, between the olive and mahogany hues, their hair jetty black, the faces round, the nose and lips rather thick but not flat, their black eyes sometimes lively and not without expression; the whole upper part of their figure was not disproportionate, and their assemblage of features not absolutely forbidding. Our crews, who had not conversed with women since our departure from the Cape, found these ladies very agreeable; and from the manner in which their advances were received, it appeared very plainly that chastity was not rigorously observed here, and that the sex were far from being impregnable. However their favours did not depend upon their own inclination, but the men, as absolute masters, were always to be consulted upon the occasion; if a spike-nail, or a shirt, or a similar present had been given for their connivance, the lady was at liberty to make her lover happy, and to exact, if possible, the tribute of another present for herself. Some among them, however, submitted with reluctance to this vile prostitution; and, but for the authority and menaces of the men, would not have complied with the desires of a set of people who could, with unconcern, behold their tears and hear their complaints. Whether the members of a civilized society, who could act such a brutal part, or the barbarians who could force their own women to submit to such indignity, deserve the greatest abhorrence, is a question not easily to be decided. Encouraged by the lucrative nature of this infamous commerce, the New Zeelanders went through the whole vessel, offering their daughters and sisters promiscuously to every person's embraces, in exchange for our iron tools, which they knew could not be purchased at an easier rate. It does not appear that their married women were ever suffered to have this kind of intercourse with our people. Their ideas of female chastity are, in this respect, so different from ours, that a girl may favour a number of lovers without any detriment to her character; but if she marries, conjugal fidelity is exacted from her with the greatest rigour. It may therefore be alledged, that as the New Zeelanders place no value on the continence of their unmarried women, the arrival of Europeans among them, did not injure their moral characters in this respect; but we doubt whether they ever debased themselves so much as to make a trade of their women, before we created new wants by shewing them iron-tools; for the possession of which they do not hesitate to commit an action that, in our eyes, deprives them of the very shadow of sensibility.

It is unhappy enough that the unavoidable consequence of all our voyages of discovery, has always been the loss of a number of innocent lives; but this heavy injury done to the little uncivilized communities which Europeans have visited, is trifling when compared to the irretrievable harm entailed upon them by corrupting their morals. If these evils were in some measure compensated by the introduction of some real benefit in these countries, or by the abolition of some other immoral customs among their inhabitants, we might at least comfort ourselves, that what they lost on one hand, they gained on the other; but I fear that hitherto our intercourse has been wholly disadvantageous to the nations of the South Seas; and that those communities have been the least injured, who have always kept aloof from us, and whose jealous disposition did not suffer our sailors to become too familiar among them, as if they had perceived in their countenances that levity of disposition, and that spirit of debauchery, with which they are generally reproached.

Several of these people were invited into the cabin, where Mr. Hodges applied himself to sketch the most characteristic faces, while we prevailed on them to sit still for a few moments, keeping their attention engaged, by a variety of trifles which we shewed, and some of which we presented to them. We found several very expressive countenances among them, particularly some old men, with grey or white heads and beards; and some young men, with amazing bushy hair, which hung wildly over their faces, and increased their natural savage looks. The stature of these people was middle-sized in general, and their form and colour almost entirely the same as that of the Dusky Bay people; their dress was likewise made in the same manner of the flax-plant, but never interwoven with feathers, in lieu of which they had bits of dog-skin at the four corners of their cloaks, which the others were not fortunate enough to possess. The boghee-boghee, or shaggy-cloak, which hangs round their neck like a thatch of straw [59] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. III. p. 453, &c. , was almost constantly worn by them, on account of the season, during which the air began to be sharp, and rains were very frequent. But their other kinds of cloth [60] Ibid. p. 455. were here commonly old, dirty, and not so neatly wrought as they are described in captain Cook's first voyage. The men wore their hair hanging in a very slovenly manner about them, but the women had theirs cut short, which seems to be the general practice among them. They also wore the head-dress, or cap of brown feathers, mentioned in the account of captain Cook's former voyage. After these people had been on board a few hours, they began to steal, and secrete every thing they could lay their hands on. Several of them were discovered in conveying away a large four-hour glass, a lamp, some handkerchiefs, and some knives; upon which they were ignominiously turned out of the sloop, and never permitted to come on board gain. They felt the whole weight of shame, which this proceeding brought upon them; and their fiery temper, which cannot brook any humiliation, was up in arms at this punishment; so that one of them uttered threats, and made violent gestures in his canoe. In the evening they all went on shore, abreast of the sloops, and made some temporary huts of the branches of trees, near which they hawled their canoes on the dry land, and made fires, over which they prepared their suppers. Their meals consisted of some fresh fishes, which they had caught in their canoes not far from shore, with a kind of scoop-net, described in captain Cook's former voyage, which they managed with a dexterity peculiar to themselves.

[Sunday 30.]The next morning we had fine mild weather, and made a trip over to Long Island, in order to look after some hay, which our people had cut there, and to collect greens for the ship's company, near the huts which the natives had abandoned. We were fortunate enough at the same time to find some new plants, and shoot several little birds, different from those which had hitherto fallen into our hands. In the afternoon, many of our sailors were allowed to go on shore, among the natives, where they traded for curiosities, and purchased the embraces of the ladies, notwithstanding the disgust which their uncleanliness inspired. Their custom of painting their cheeks with ochre and oil, was alone sufficient to deter the more sensible from such intimate connections with them; and if we add to this a certain stench which announced them even at a distance, and the abundance of vermin which not only infested their hair, but also crawled on their clothes, and which they occasionally cracked between their teeth, it is astonishing that persons should be found, who could gratify an animal appetite with such loathsome objects, whom a civilized education and national customs should have taught them to hold in abhorrence.

_____________________ Unde

Hӕc tetigit, Gradive, tuos urtica nepotes? Juvenal.

Before they returned on board again, a woman stole a jacket belonging to one of our sailors, and gave it to a young fellow of her own nation. The owner finding it in the young men's hands, took it from him, upon which he received several blows with the fist. These he believed were meant in joke, but as he was advancing to the water-side, in order to step into the boat, the native threw several large stones at him. The sailor was rouzed, and returning to the fellow, began to box him after the English manner, and in a few moments had given the New Zeelander a black eye, and bloody nose; upon which the latter, to all appearance much terrified, declined the combat, and ran off.

Captain Cook, who was determined to omit nothing which might tend to the preservation of European garden-plants in this country, prepared the soil, sowed seeds, and transplanted the young plants in four or five different parts of this sound. He had cultivated a spot of ground on the beach of Long Island, another on the Hippah rock, two more on the Motu-Aro, and one of considerable extent at the bottom of Ship Cove, where our vessels lay at anchor. He chiefly endeavoured to raise such vegetables as have useful and nutritive roots, and among them particularly potatoes, of which we had been able to preserve but few in a state of vegetation. He had likewise sown corn of several sorts, beans, kidney-beans, and pease, and devoted the latter part of his stay in great measure to these occupations.

[1773. June.][Tuesday 1.]Early on the first of June several canoes full of natives came on board, whom we had not seen before. Their canoes were of different sizes, and three of them had sails, which are but seldom seen among them. The sail consisted of a large triangular mat, and was fixed to a mast, and a boom joining below in an acute angle, which could both be struck with the greatest facility. The upper edge, or broadest part of the sail, had five tufts of brown feathers on its extremity. The bottom of these canoes consisted of a long hollow trunk of a tree, and the sides were made of several boards or planks above each other, which were united by means of a number of strings of the New Zeeland flax-plant, passed through small holes, and tied very fast. The seams between them are caulked with the downy or woolly substance of the reed-mace ( typha latifolia). Some of the canoes were double, that is, two fastened along side of each other, by means of transverse sticks, lashed on with ropes; but where that was not the case, they had an outrigger, or narrow piece of plank fixed parallel to one side of the canoe, by means of transverse poles, to prevent their oversetting. All those we now saw had not that profusion of carving and fine workmanship, mentioned in captain Cook's first voyage, which he observed in the canoes of the northern islands; but seemed rather old, and worn out; they were not, however, different in the general conformation from those described there, and always had the distorted human face at the head, the high stern, and the neat sharp-pointed paddles. The people in them brought for sale several ornaments, which were new to us, especially pieces of green nephritic stone, cut into various forms. Some were of a flat shape, with a sharp edge, and served as the blades of hatchets, or adzes; some were formed into long pieces, which are hung into the ear; others were little chissels, inserted in a wooden handle, and again others were cut out with great labour into a contorted and squatted figure, something resembling the carricature of a man, in which a pair of monstrous eyes were inserted, made of the mother of pearl of an ear-shell. This last, which they called ê teeghee, was worn by persons of both sexes, hanging on the breast, from a string passed about the heck, and may perhaps relate to some religious matters. They sold us an apron, made of their close-wrought cloth, covered with red feathers, faced with white dog-skin, and ornamented with pieces of the ear-shell, which is said to be worn by the women in their dances. They brought a number of their fish-hooks, which are of a remarkable clumsy form, made of wood, and barbed with a piece of bone, which was jagged, and which they assured us was human bone. Several rows of human teeth, drawn on a thread, hung on their breasts, in the place of, or along with the teeghee, but they readily sold them to us, in exchange for iron tools, or trinkets. A good many dogs were observed in their canoes, which they seemed very fond of, and kept tied with a string, round their middle; they were of a rough long-haired sort, with pricked ears, and much resembled the common shepherd's cur, or count Buffon's chien de berger (see his Hist. Nat.). They were of different colours, some spotted, some quite black, and others perfectly white. The food which these dogs receive is fish, or the same as their masters live on, who afterwards eat their flesh, and employ the fur in various ornaments and dresses. They sold us several of these animals, among which the old ones coming into our possession, became extremely sulky, and refused to take any sustenance, but some young ones soon accustomed themselves to our provisions. Several of the New Zeelanders came into the vessel, and some were conducted into the cabin, where they received some presents; but none of them shewed that astonishment, and that degree of reflection and attention, which our old friend at Dusky Bay had manifested on coming aboard. Some of them were strangely marked in the face with deeply excavated spiral lines; and one of them in particular, a tall and strong man, and nearly middle-aged, had these marks very regular on his chin, cheeks, forehead, and nose, so that his beard, which would otherwise have been very thick, now consisted only of a few straggling hairs. This man's name was Tringho-Waya, and he seemed to have some authority with his people, which was more than we had hitherto observed among the small number who had visited us. The chief object of their commerce were shirts and bottles, of which last they were remarkably fond: perhaps because they have nothing in which to keep liquids, except a minute kind of calabash or gourd, which grows only in the northern island, and was extremely scarce among the people in Queen Charlotte's Sound. They were not inclined however to make disadvantageous bargains, and demanded the best price for every little trifle which they offered for sale, though they were never offended with a refusal. Some of them being in remarkable good spirits, gave us a heiva, or dance, on the quarter-deck. They placed themselves in a row, and parted with their shaggy upper garments: one of them sung some words in a rude manner, and all the rest accompanied the gestures he made, alternately extending their arms, and stamping with their feet in a violent and almost frantic manner. The last words which we might suppose the burden of the song, or a chorus, they all repeated together; and we could easily distinguish some sort of metre in them, but were not sure they had rhimes. The music was extremely rough, and of no great extent in these kinds of songs. In the evening they all went off again, and returned to the upper part of the sound from whence they came.

[Wednesday 2.]The next morning we accompanied the captains Cook and Furneaux to East Bay, and Grass Cove, where they intended to collect a load of antiscorbutic greens. We had not only endeavoured to leave useful European roots in this country, but we were likewise attentive to stock its wilds with animals, which in time might become beneficial to the natives, and to future generations of navigators. To this purpose captain Furneaux had already sent a boar and two sows to Canibal Cove, where they had been turned into the woods to range at their own pleasure; and we now deprived ourselves, with the same view, of a pair of goats, male and female, which we left in an unfrequented part of East Bay. These places had been fixed upon, in hopes that our new colonists would there remain unmolested by the natives, who indeed were the only enemies they had to fear, as their inconsiderate and barbarous temper would not suffer them to make any reflection on the advantages which future ages might reap from the propagation of such a valuable race of animals. On this excursion we saw a large animal in the water about Grass Cove, which seemed to be a sea-lion by its magnitude, but which we could not get a shot at. We had already discovered a small species of bats in the woods, so that the list of the indigenous quadrupeds in New Zeeland was increased to five, including the domestic dog of the natives; and it is much to be doubted whether it is possible to add a sixth to that number. After we had ranged the woods in different parts, collected several plants, shot a few birds, and taken in a great load of wild celery and scurvy-grass, we returned late on board.

On the third of June, we sent some boats to Long Island to fetch our hay on board; and having laid in a sufficient quantity of wood and water, put the ship in a condition to go to sea, and refreshed our crews with vast quantities of greens, we were ready to sail with the first opportunity. One of our boats in returning saw a large double canoe, and another in which they counted about fifty men, who immediately chaced them: but our people not being armed, hoisted sail, and soon got away from them, so that the New Zeelanders gave over the pursuit, and returned towards East Bay from whence they came. We can by no means pretend to assert that their intentions were hostile in any degree, but prudence naturally suggested to our people, not to place themselves in the power of a set of uncivilized men, who follow their own caprice instead of laws.

[Friday 4.]The next morning we hoisted St. George's colours, the jack and pennant in honour of His Majesty's birth-day, which we prepared to celebrate with the usual festivities. The family of natives, whose name I have mentioned page 209, and who by living constantly in a neighbouring cove, were now intimate with us, came on board very early, and breakfasted with us. Whilst we were sitting in the steerage, an officer acquainted the captain with the approach of a large double canoe, well manned with New Zeelanders, coming from the northward. We immediately went on deck, and saw the canoe about a musket shot from us, containing twenty-eight men, making towards our sloop, which from her size they probably took to be the commanding one. Our friends on board very earnestly told us they would be our enemies, and persisted to fire at them; nay Towahanga, the head of the family jumped on the arm chest, which was placed on our quarter deck, and taking hold of a stick, made a number of warlike motions with it, and soon after spoke to them very violently, but with some degree of solemnity, at the same time brandishing, as it seemed in defiance, a large hatchet of green nephritic stone, which he had never shewn us before. In the mean time the canoe approached, without taking much notice of our friend, whom we persuaded at last to be silent. Two people of a fine stature, one at the stern, and another about the middle of the canoe stood upright, while all the rest continued seated. The former had a perfect black cloak of the close wrought kind, patched in compartments with dog-skin; he held a green plant of the New Zeeland flag in his hand, and now and then spoke a few words. But the other pronounced a long speech well articulated, loud, and very solemn, and gave his voice great variety of falls and elevations. From the various tones in which he spoke, and a few gestures with which he accompanied his words, he appeared by turns to question, to boast, to threaten, to challenge, and to persuade us; he was sometimes running on in a moderate tone, then all at once breaking out into violent exclamations; after which he made short pauses in order to recover his breath. Having finished his oration, he was invited to come on board by the captain, who came to the ship's side; he seemed at first dubious and mistrustful, but his natural spirit soon overcoming that diffidence, he ventured on board, and was presently followed by all his people, who traded with the greatest eagerness for our iron wares. They immediately saluted the family of natives on board, with the usual application of noses, or as our sailors expressed it, they nosed each other, and paid every one of us upon the quarter-deck the same compliment. The two speakers were taken into the cabin, where we learnt the second orator's name was Teiratu, and that he came from the opposite shore of the northern island, called Teera Whittee. They immediately enquired for Tupia ( Tupaya ), and, like those mentioned p. 206, seemed much concerned, and pronounced some words in a mournful or plaintive voice on hearing of his death. So much had this man's superior knowledge, and his ability to converse in their language rendered him valuable, and beloved even among a nation in a state of barbarism. Perhaps with the capacity which Providence had allotted to him, and which had been cultivated no farther than the simplicity of his education would permit, he was more adapted to raise the New Zeelanders to a state of civilization similar to that of his own islands, than ourselves, to whom the want of the intermediate links, which connect their narrow views to our extended sphere of knowledge, must prove an obstacle in such an undertaking.

Teiratu and all his companions were a taller race of people than we had hitherto seen in New Zeeland, none of them being below the middle size, and many above it. Their dress, ornaments, and arms were richer than any we had observed among the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and seemed to speak a kind of affluence, which was entirely new to us. Among their dresses were several cloaks entirely lined with dog-skin, upon which they set a high value, and which indeed gave them a very comfortable appearance in the cold weather that now began to be felt. Many of their cloaks, made of the fibres of the New Zeeland flag ( phormium), were new, and had elegant borders, very symmetrically wrought in red, black, and white; so that they might have passed for the work of a much more polished nation [61] See Hawkesworth, vol. III. . The black is so strongly fixed upon their stuffs, that it deserves the attention of our manufacturers, who greatly want a lasting dye of that colour on vegetable productions; but the little progress we could make in their language, rendered it impossible to gain intelligence from them on this point. Their cloaks are square pieces, of which two corners were fastened on the breast by strings, and stuck together by a bodkin of bone, whalebone, or green jadde. A belt of a sort of close matting of grass, confined the lower extremities of their cloak to their loins, beyond which it extended at least to the middle of the thigh, and sometimes to the mid-leg. Notwithstanding this superiority over the natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound, they resembled them perfectly in their uncleanliness, and swarms of vermin marched about in their cloaths. Their hair was dressed in the fashion of the country tied on the crown, greased, and stuck with white feathers; and several of them had large combs, of some cetaceous animal's bone, stuck upright just behind the bunch of hair on the head. Many of them were strongly carved with spirals in the face; several had painted it with red ochre and oil, and were always much pleased when we laid some vermilion on their cheeks. We likewise saw some little calabashes among them, neatly carved, in which they kept some stinking oil; but whether it was animal or vegetable I could never learn. All their tools were very elegantly carved, and made with great attention. They sold us a hatchet, of which the blade was of the finest green jadde, and the handle curiously ornamented with fretwork. They also brought some musical instruments, among which was a trumpet, or tube of wood, about four feet long, and pretty strait; its small mouth was not above two inches, and the other not above five in diameter; it made a very uncouth kind of braying, for they always sounded the same note, though a performer on the French horn might perhaps be able to bring some better music out of it. Another trumpet was made of a large whelk, ( murex tritonis), mounted with wood, curiously carved, and pierced at the point where the mouth was applied; a hideous bellowing was all the sound that could be procured out of this instrument. The third went by the name of a flute among our people, and was a hollow tube, widest about the middle, where it had a large opening, as well as another at each end. This and the first trumpet were both made of two hollow semicyclinders of wood, exactly fitted and moulded together, so as to form a perfect tube. Their double canoe was about fifty feet long, and seemed to be new; both the high stern and the head were very curiously carved with fretwork and spiral lines, as described in Capt. Cook's former voyage. A mishapen thing, which with some difficulty we perceived was meant to represent a human head, with a pair of eyes of mother of pearl, and a long tongue lolling out of its mouth, constituted the foremost extremity or prora of the canoe. This figure is the most common in all their ornaments, and principally in every thing that relates to warlike affairs. The custom of lolling out the tongue in contempt and defiance of the enemy, seems to have given rise to the frequent representations of it; the figure of the tongue forms the heads of their war-canoes, it is placed on the narrow extremity of their battle-axes, and they wear it on their breast, tied to a string round the neck; nay they carve it on their very scoops with which they bale the water, and on the paddles with which they manage their canoes.

These people made but a very short stay with us, for seeing it began to blow fresh, they all embarked and paddled over to the Motu-Aro. The captain, accompanied by several gentlemen, followed them about noon, and found seven canoes there hauled on shore, which had carried about ninety persons to that island, who were all busied making huts for their temporary shelter. Our people were received with every mark of friendship, and the captain distributed many presents to them. Among these was a number of brass medals, gilt, about one inch and three quarters in diameter, which had been struck on purpose to be left as a memorial of this voyage among the nations we should meet with: on one side was the head of his present majesty, with the inscription, george iii. king of great britain, france and ireland, &c. On the reverse, the representation of two men of war, with the names resolution and adventure over them; and the exergue sailed from england march mdcclxxii [62] It was originally intended that the sloops should sail so early as March. . Some of these medals had already been given to the natives of Dusky Bay, and those of Queen Charlotte's Sound. In exchange for iron, cloth, and beads, our people collected a great number of arms, tools, dresses, and ornaments, as curiosities among them, they having greater quantities of these things than any New Zeelanders we had seen. The captain and his company perceived that Teiratu seemed to be the principal or chief among them, by a certain degree of regard which the rest paid to him: they could not, however, determine any thing with precision on this subject. Respect is always paid to the old men among them, who may be supposed to owe their consequence to the long experience they have gained. But their chiefs, such as we believed this Teiratu to be, are strong, active, young men, in the prime and flower of their age. These are perhaps elected, as among the North American savages; being men of avowed courage, strength, and military sagacity; from a consciousness that a body of men, in case of war, necessarily requires a leader to animate them as a soul, and upon whose superior talents they may consistently place all their hopes. The more we consider the warlike disposition of the New Zeelanders, and the numerous small parties into which they are divided, this form of government will appear indispensible; for it must be evident to them that the qualifications of a chief are not to be inherited, or propagated from father to son; and it is likewise probable, that this free people may have had opportunities of making the obvious reflection, that hereditary government has a natural tendency towards despotism.

Captain Cook, apprehensive lest the natives should find our garden and destroy it, not knowing for what purpose it was intended, conducted Teiratu thither, and shewed him every plant in it, especially the potatoes. He expressed a great liking to the last, and seemed to know them very well, evidently because a similar root, the Virginian or sweet potatoe, ( convolvulus batatas), is planted in some parts of the Northern Island, from whence he came. The captain parted from him, after obtaining the promise that he would not destroy his plantations, but leave every thing to grow up and propagate, and returned aboard the Resolution, where the marines fired three vollies, and our crews gave three heerty cheers in token of affection to their king.

[Monday 7.]The wind freshened considerably after noon, and continued to blow very hard for two days following, so that we were obliged to lie at anchor till the 7th in the morning, when we weighed and sailed out of Ship Cove, in company with the Adventure. Our stay here had proved so beneficial to our crews, that they might now be said to be to the full as healthy as when they left England; and we had only a single sick man, a marine, on board our sloop, who had laboured under a consumption and dropsy ever since we had left England.

CHAP. VII.

Run from New Zeeland to O-Taheitee.

[1773. June.] WE entered Cook's Strait after noon, and standing down to the southward, beheld the immense ocean before us, which goes by the name of the South Sea. This vast expanse of sea, through which many former navigators had passed, in the happy climate of the torrid zone, but whose middle latitudes no European vessel, except the Endeavour bark, had hitherto attempted to explore, has always been believed to contain a large tract of land, distinguished by geographers with the name of a Southern Continent. Previous to the Endeavour's voyage, New Zeeland was thought the western coast of this unknown land, and certain pretended discoveries near America were asserted as its eastern shores. Captain Cook in that voyage having cut off both these by his course, and even penetrated to 40 degrees of south latitude without finding land, the southern continent was restrained within narrower limits, though these were still considerable enough to engage the attention of future nagivators. We were now to enter on this unexplored part, and running to the eastward between the 50th and 40th degrees of sgouth latitude, to search for undiscovered countries in the depth of winter. Many among our fellow-voyagers proceeded on this dangerous expedition in the firm belief that we should speedily find the coasts we went in quest of, whose novelty and valuable productions would amply reward our perseverance and fatigues. But captain Cook, and several others, judging from what had been done in the former voyage, and what they had already experienced on this, were far from expecting to discover new lands, and greatly doubted the existence of a southern continent.

[Tuesday 8.] We were still in the mouth of the strait at eight the next morning, and saw the high mountains of the southern isle loaded with snow, from whence they had their name, whilst the weather below was clear and mild, our thermometer being about 51° in the shade. Great shoals of cetaceous fish, of a perfectly black colour, with a white spot before the back fin, passed by us. They were fired at from our vessel, and one of them being shot through the head, could no longer plunge under water, but began to beat about furiously on the surface, and tinged the sea with its blood. It seemed to be about three yards long, and was slender and blunt-headed, from whence our sailors called it the bottle-nose, a name which Dale applies to a very different fish, the beaked whale, of which the beak or nose resembles the neck of a bottle [63] See Pennant's British Zoology. . We went at the rate of three knots and a half at this time, so that it was not thought proper to bring to, for the sake of taking up the dead fish.

[Wednesday 9.]An infinite number of albatrosses, of all the three species, hovered about us, after we were out of sight of the land. The common or large sort were of diverse colours, which we believed to differ according to age, and that the oldest were almost wholly white, those next them somewhat more sprinkled with brown, and the youngest quite brown. Some of our sailors, who had formerly sailed on board of East-India ships, after comparing the facility of those voyages to the hardships of the present, propagated the ludicrous idea among their messmates, that these birds contained the departed souls of old India captains; who now, exiled to a part of the ocean which they shunned before, were forced to gather a precarious subsistence instead of enjoying their former affluence, and were made the sport of storms which they had never felt in their cabbins. This stroke, which may pass for witty enough, confirms what I have before observed of the original humour of sea-faring men.

The officers, who could not yet relish their salt provisions, after the refreshments of New Zeeland, had ordered their black dog, mentioned p. 135, to be killed, and sent the captain one half of it; this day therefore we dined for the first time on a leg of it roasted, which tasted so exactly like mutton, that it was absolutely undistinguishable. In our cold countries where animal food is so much used, and where to be carnivorous perhaps lies in the nature of men, or is indispensibly necessary to the preservation of their health and strength, it is strange that there should exist a Jewish aversion to dogs-flesh, when hogs, the most uncleanly of all animals are eaten without scruple. Nature seems expressly to have intended them for this use, by making their offspring so very numerous, and their encrease so quick and frequent. It may be objected, that the exalted degree of instinct, which we observe in our dogs, inspires us with great unwillingness to kill and eat them. But it is owing to the time we spend on the education of dogs, that they acquire those eminent qualities which attach them so much to us. The natural qualities of our dogs may receive a wonderful improvement, but education must give its assistance, without which the human mind itself, though capable of an immense expansion, remains in a very contracted state. In New Zeeland, and (according to former accounts of voyages) in the tropical isles of the South Sea, the dogs are the most stupid, dull animals imaginable, and do not seem to have the least advantage in point of sagacity over our sheep, which are commonly made the emblems of silliness. In the former country they are fed upon fish, in the latter on vegetables, and both these diets may have served to alter their disposition. Education may perhaps likewise graft new instincts; the New Zeeland dogs are fed on the remains of their masters' meals; they eat the bones of other dogs, and the puppies become true cannibals from their birth. We had a young New Zeeland puppy on board, which had certainly had no opportunity of tasting any thing but the mother's milk before we purchased it; however it eagerly devoured a portion of the flesh and bones of the dog, on which we dined to-day; while several others of the European breed taken on board at the Cape, turned from it without touching it.

[Wednesd. 16.]We kept standing to the south-eastward till the 16th at noon, attended by numerous birds of the petrel and albatross kind, together with now and then a skua, or Port-Egmont hen. Beds of sea-weeds frequently were seen floating on the sea, but we were now too much accustomed to their appearance, to attempt to draw any conclusions from it. The thermometer, which at our departure from New Zeeland, stood at 51° at eight o'clock in the morning, sunk in proportion as we came to the southward to 48°, and sometimes to 47° at the same time of day; but the temperature of the air upon the whole was extremely variable, and the weather equally unsettled. From thence it arose, that we daily observed rainbows, or parts of them about the horizon, especially in the morning. The wind during this time was likewise very changeable, and veered round the compass in a direction contrary to the course of the sun, that is, from west round by the north towards east, and so further on; but it chiefly prevailed from the easterly quarter, where we least expected it, so that our situation became tedious, and was made more irksome by frequent fogs, rains, and heavy swells. Having reached the latitude of 46° 17' south, we directed our course to the north-eastward, as much as the wind would permit.

[Wednesd. 23.]On the 23d, the weather being mild and the wind very moderate, captain Furneaux came on board, and dined with us. He acquainted captain Cook, that all his people continued in good health, except one or two, who were infected with a nauseous disease, which is propagated by connections with the other sex. This information gave us great uneasiness, it being evident that the distemper had already reached New Zeeland, since our men must have received it there. Struck with the horrid consequences which this evil would entail on the New Zeelanders, we recapitulated the opportunities which those people had of catching the infection from Europeans. The first discoverer of this country, in 1642, Abel Janssen Tasman had not the least amicable intercourse with the inhabitants, and none of his people appear to have been ashore upon it. Captain Cook, the next navigator, who visited it in the Endeavour Bark, 1769 and 1770, came from O-Taheitee and the Society Isles where several of his people had contracted venereal complaints. However, as his passage lasted nearly two months, the surgeon reported, when they made the coast, that no man had any symptoms of the distemper about him. Notwithstanding this assurance captain Cook had the precaution, not to suffer any person to go on shore, who had been under cure, and might be suspected to have some latent remains of this infectious evil; and to preclude the possibility of communicating it to a guiltless people, he never suffered the women to come on board. M. de Surville, a French navigator, sailed from Pondichery in the St. Jean Baptiste, passed through the Straits of Malacca, touched at the Bashee Isles, went round Manila, saw land to the S. E. of New Britain, about the latitude of 10 3/4°, and longitude 158° east, which he called Port Surville; touched at New Zeeland, and proceeded to Callao, in South America in order to trade there; but being drowned in the landing, and all his letter of recommendation being lost with him, the ship was detained near two years, and then sent to France, with all her merchandize. M. de Surville lay in Doubtless Bay, on the 9th of December, 1769, and saw the Endeavour standing past him, though captain Cook could not see his vessel, which lay under the land. What stay M. de Surville made there, and upon what terms he was with the natives, I know not; but the distance between this place and Queen Charlotte's Sound, and the want of intercourse between the inhabitants of both ports, make it improbable, even supposing the complaint to have existed among his crew, that it could have reached so far south.

The same thing may be said with regard to M. de Marion and captain Crozet, two French officers, whose expedition, in 1772, I have mentioned page 112; for the communications which their crews had with the natives, was confined to the environs of the Bay of Islands, in the northernmost part of the northern isle. Our two sloops were the next in order, which touched at New Zeeland; but we had not the least reason to suppose, that they carried any venereal complaint to that country. They had left the Cape of Good Hope, the last place where it is possible the sailors might contract this disorder, six months before they came to Queen Charlotte's Sound, five of which they had been at sea; an interval in which a radical cure may be expected, unless the disease be of too inveterate a nature. However, they were far from having any patients of this sort on board, and it is not likely that the poison could lay dormant during that long interval of time, in a set of men who had no other than salt provisions to live upon, and spirituous liquors to drink, and who were exposed to wet and cold, and all the rigours of southern climates. We therefore concluded, that from all the concurring circumstances, the venereal disease was indigenous in New Zeeland, and not imported by Europeans; and we have hitherto had no reason to alter our opinion on this subject. But if, in spite of appearances, our conclusions should prove erroneous, it is another crime added to the score of civilized nations, which must make their memory execrated by the unhappy people, whom they have poisoned. Nothing can in the least atone for the injury they have done to society, since the price at which their libidinous enjoyments were purchased, instils another poison into the mind, and destroys the moral principles, while the disease corrupts and enervates the body. (see pag. 212). A race of men, who admidst all their savage roughness, their fiery temper, and cruel customs, are brave, generous, hospitable, and incapable of deceiving, are justly to be pitied, that love, the source of their sweetest and happiest feelings, is converted into the origin of the most dreadful scourge of life.

[1773. July.]The wind still continued as changeable as before, till the beginning of July, having veered all round the compass against the sun, more than four times. During this space albatrosses, petrels, and sea-weeds, were frequently seen; rainbows also appeared almost every morning, nay one night we observed this phӕnomenon pretty strong, caused by the refracted light of the moon.

[Friday 9.]On the 9th of July we were nearly in the same longitude, where captain Cook, in the Endeavour, had reached 40° 22' south [64] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 282. , but our latitude was about two degrees and a quarter more southerly. Here we lost a young he-goat, which fell over board, and notwithstanding all possible means were tried for his recovery, such as chasing, injecting clysters of the fumes of tobacco, &c. our endeavours proved entirely ineffectual.

[Saturday 17.]July 17th having past the longitude of 227° east, and being in about 40° south latitude, we began to run due north, after a very tedious course in search of the southern continent, the existence of which, in the latitudes we had now passed through, had been positively asserted. The uncomfortable season of the year, the many contrary winds, and the total want of interesting incidents united to make this run extremely tedious to us all, and the only point we had gained by it, was the certainty that no great land was situated in the South Sea about the middle latitudes. In five days time our latitude being 31° south, we began to lose sight of albatrosses and petrels, and the thermometer was risen to 61 1/2, so that we began to change our winter clothes for others, considerably thinner, for the first time after leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The spirits of all our people were much exhilarated in proportion as we approached to the tropics, and our sailors diverted themselves with a variety of plays every evening. The genial mildness of the air was so welcome to us, after a long absence from it, that we could not help preferring the warm climates as the best adapted for the abode of mankind. [Sunday 25.]We saw a tropic bird on the 25th in the afternoon, a sure sign that we were arrived into the temperate climates below 30° of latitude. The setting sun illumined the clouds with the most brilliant tints of gold, which confirmed us in the opinion that the colours of the sky are no where so rich and beautiful as between or near the tropics.

[Wednesd. 28.]On the 28th we spoke with the Adventure, and heard that they had buried their cook three days ago, and that about twenty of her people were very ill of the scurvy. This was the more surprising to us, as we had but very few people affected with any symptoms of that disorder, and only one who was dangerously sick. The next day captain Cook sent one of his seamen with a warrant to act as cook on board the Adventure; and several of our gentlemen took the opportunity of going to dine with their friends. They found captain Furneaux and some others very ill of a rheumatic complaint, and many of the people had fluxes. Their carpenter was remarkable ill of the scurvy, and had great livid blotches on his legs. This difference between the salubrity of the two vessels probably arose from the want of fresh air in the Adventure, our sloop being higher out of the water, so that we could open more scuttles in bad weather than our consort. Our people likewise made a greater consumption of sour-krout and wort, and particularly applied the grains of the latter to all blotches and swelled parts, a regimen which had been omitted by those in the Adventure. On this occasion it is not improper to remark, that the scurvy is more dangerous and virulent in warm climates than in cold. As long as we had kept in high latitudes it did not make its appearance, or was at least confined to a few individuals, who were naturally of a bad habit of body; but we had scarcely had ten days of warm weather when one man died, and a number of others were affected with the worst symptoms of this dreadful distemper, on board the Adventure. It should therefore seem that the heat contributes to inflammation and putrefaction; and its general effect, even among those who had no dangerous scorbutic complaints, was a great degree of languor and debility.

[1773. August.][Wednesday 4.]On the 4th of August a young bitch, of the terrier breed, taken on board at the Cape of Good Hope, and covered by a spaniel, brought ten young ones, one of which was dead. The New Zeeland dog, mentioned above, which devoured the bones of the roasted dog, now fell upon the dead puppy, and ate of it with a ravenous appetite. This is a proof how far education may go in producing and propagating new instincts in animals. European dogs are never fed on the meat of their own species, but rather seem to abhor it. The New Zeeland dogs, in all likelihood, are trained up from their earliest age to eat the remains of their master's meals; they are therefore used to feed upon fish, their own species, and perhaps human flesh; and what was only owing to habit at first, may have become instinct by length of time. This was remarkable in our cannibal-dog, for he came on board so young, that he could not have been weaned long enough to acquire a habit of devouring his own species, and much less of eating human flesh; however, one of our seamen having cut his finger, held it out to the dog, who fell to greedily, licked it, and then began to bite into it.

On the 6th, in the afternoon, being in about 19 1/2 deg. of south latitude, we got the easterly trade-wind, which set in fresh after several calms, attended with heavy showers of rain. The sun being at this time still in the opposite hemisphere, was probably the cause of our meeting with this wind so much later than usual, the tropics being generally reckoned its limits. Agreeable to the observation which we now made, we had found the trade-wind, in August 1772, at Madeira, though that island is situated in 33° of north latitude. But the most remarkable occurrence in our run was the nature of the winds previous to our obtaining the trade-wind. We had expected that, by going in a middle latitude between 50 and 40 deg. south, we should meet with regular westerly winds, which are common in our seas during the winter months; instead of this we found them veering around the compass in two or three days time, never settling in any other than the eastern quarter, and sometimes blowing with great violence. Thus the name of Pacific Ocean, which has formerly been given to the whole South Sea, is, in my opinion, applicable only to a part of it between the tropics, where the winds are steady and uniform, the weather in general fair and mild, and the sea not so much agitated as in higher latitudes.

Albecores, bonitos, and dolphins gave chace to many shoals of flying-fish, in the same manner as we had observed them in the Atlantic; while several large black-birds, with long wings and forked tails, which are commonly called men of war ( pelecanus aquilus, Linn.) soared at a vast height in the air, and sometimes descending into a lower region, viewed a fish swimming under them, and darted down with amazing velocity, never failing to strike the fish with their bill. It is a well known fact, that gannets, which are birds of the same genus in the English seas, catch fish in a similar manner. The fishermen on the coast frequently fix a pilchard or herring on the point of a knife fastened to a floating board, and the bird darting down upon it transfixes itself on the knife.

On the 11th, in the morning, we discovered a low island to the southward of us, which seemed about four miles long, and about six miles distant. It appeared to be almost level with the sea, only some groups of trees rose above the horizon, and among them a few cocoa-nut palms out-topped the rest. To people in our situation, exhausted with a tedious passage, the bare sight of land was sufficient to give some consolation, though we could not expect to reap any benefit from its productions; and therefore this island, though divested of every thing strikingly beautiful, yet pleased the eye by the simplicity of its form. Our thermometer was now constantly between 70 and 80 degrees in the morning; but the heat was far from being troublesome, as the fair weather was accompanied by a strong pleasant trade-wind, and our awnings were spread over the quarter-deck. This island, which was called Resolution Island, seems to have been seen by M. de Bougainville. Its latitude is 17° 24' south, and its longitude 141° 39' west from Greenwich. Our observation at noon was 17° 17' south, our course being nearly east. In the evening, at half past six o'clock, we saw another island of the same nature as the preceding, about four leagues distant, which was named Doubtful Island. It being after sun-set, we stood to the northward till we had passed by it. [Thursday 12.]The next morning, before day-break, we were alarmed by the sudden appearance of breakers within half a mile a-head of us. We changed our course instantly, apprized our consort of the danger by proper signals, and then stood along the reef. As soon as it was light we distinguished an island of a circular form, including a large bason or lagoon of sea-water; the northern shores were covered with trees and palms in various clusters, which had a very elegant appearance; but all the rest was a narrow ledge of rocks, over which the surf beat with great violence; within it the lagoon was shallow near us, but deeper under the wooded part; a difference which could easily be distinguished by the whiter or the bluer colour of the water. Captain Cook gave this isle the name of Furneaux Island; it is situated in 17° 5' south latitude, and 143° 16' west longitude. Standing along this reef we saw a canoe sailing near the northern part of the isle, and by the help of glasses we observed six or seven men in it, one of which was placed at the stern steering with a paddle. They did not seem to have embarked in order to reconnoitre us, as they did not approach the southern reef, but kept close in with the wooded part of the island. We proceeded all day with a favourable breeze and fair weather till sun-set; but the navigation between these low islands and reefs being extremely dangerous, because they can only been seen at short distances, we were obliged to bring to at night in order to avoid meeting with them unawares. [Friday 13.] Early the next morning we left another island of this kind on our starboard quarter, which was called Adventure Island; it lies in 17° 4' south latitude, and 144° 30' west longitude. We spoke with the Adventure about the same time, and were told she had above thirty men on the sick list, most of them ill of the scurvy. Our sloop still kept rather free of this distemper, and every precaution was taken to preserve our crew in health by a plentiful use of sour-krout, by airing the hammocks every day, and frequently smoaking the ship with gunpowder and vinegar.

In the afternoon we saw an island right a-head, consisting of several clumps of trees, united by one reef, and from its situation we judged it was the same which Captain Cook named Chain Island in his former voyage [65] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 77. . To prevent losing our time by bringing the sloops to at night, we hoisted a boat out, and sent it to sail ahead of our vessels, with a light, and to make signals in case of danger. The South Sea between the tropics, contains many low islands, singularly constructed, which are level with the sea in most places, and at the utmost a yard or two above it. They have frequently a circular form, including a lagoon or bason of sea-water in their centre, and the depth of the sea all round them is unfathomable, the rocks rising perpendicularly from the bottom. Their productions must be few, and cocoa nut-trees are probably the most useful which they contain; but notwithstanding this circumstance and their small size, many of them are inhabited. The question how such little spots came to be peoples is not easily to be answered; but it is not easier to determine how the higher islands in the South Sea have acquired their inhabitants. Commodore (now Admiral) Byron, and Captain Wallis, who sent some of their people on shore upon these low islands, found their inhabitants shy and jealous of strangers; a disposition which is perhaps owing to the difficulty of preserving their existence from the scanty provisions on their narrow circle, and which may be heightened by the consciousness that their small numbers render them liable to oppression. The language of these people, and their customs, are therefore still unknown, and these are the only circumstances from which the origin of nations, who have no records among them, can be traced.

Early on the 15th of August we saw a high peak with a flattish summit, first discovered by Captain Wallis, who called it Osnabruck Island, and afterwards by M. de Bougainville, in whose chart it has the names of Pic de la Boudeuse, or le Boudoir. The mountain appeared of a considerable height, and its top was broken or excavated perfectly like the crater of a volcano, which seemed evidently to have existed here. The island was nearly of a circular form, and the mountain rose steep to a conical shape from all parts of the sea-shore, there being but little level land round its foot. The whole mountain was green, and the bottom or low land was covered with trees. While we eagerly feasted our eyes with this pleasing prospect, one of our officers, who had formerly been sent close in shore there by Captain Wallis, told us that the trees were of the kind which bear the bread-fruit, so much extolled in the voyages of Anson, Byron, Wallis, and Cook. He acquainted us at the same time, that the natives were of the same race as those who dwell on O Taheitee and the Society Isles, of which the first is within half a day's sail; and that they give the name of Maâtea [66] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 78. Maitea. to their own island. We never came nearer than four leagues to it, which was probably the reason that no canoes came off to visit us. Having very little wind we hoisted a boat out, which went on board the Adventure, and brought Captain Furneaux to dine with us. We had the pleasure to learn from him, that the flux among his crew was ceased, and that none of his people were in any imminent danger from the scurvy; we hoped therefore, from our vicinity to O-Taheitee, to have a speedy opportunity of restoring their health by a wholesome vegetable diet.

In the evening, about sun-set, we plainly saw the mountains of that desirable island, lying before us, half emerging from the gilded clouds on the horizon. Every man on board, except one or two who were not able to walk, hastened eagerly to the forecastle to feast their eyes on an object, of which they were taught to form the highest expectations, both in respect of the abundance of refreshments, and of the kind and generous temper of the natives, whose character has pleased all the navigators who have visited them. The first discoverer was probably a Spaniard, Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, who sailed from Lima in Peru, on the 21st of December 1605. He made an island on the 10th of February 1606, calling it la Sagittaria [67] See an Historical Collection of the several Voyages and Discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean , by Alexander Dalrymple, Esq. vol. I, p. 109 to 117. , which, from all the concurring circumstances, seems to have been O-Taheitee. He found no harbours on the south part, where he fell in with it; but the people he sent ashore were treated with the greated marks of friendship and kindness. Captain Wallis next found this island on the 18th of June 1767, and called it George the Third's Island. Some unhappy misunderstanding arising between him and the natives at first, he fired upon them, killed about fifteen, and wounded a great number; but these good tempered people, forgetting the great loss they had sustained, and the wounds their brethren had received, made peace with him soon after, and furnished him with a profusion of refreshments, consisting of several roots, many sorts of rich fruit, fowls, and hogs. M. de Bougainville arrived in the eastern part on the 2d of April 1768, or about nine months and a half after the departure of Captain Wallis, and discovered the true indigenous name of this island; sensible of the amiable character of the inhabitants, he staid ten days among them, giving and receiving frequent marks of friendship and regard. Captain Cook, in the Endeavour, arriving here in April 1769, to observe the transit of Venus, circumnavigated the whole island in a boat; and, during a stay of three months, had daily opportunities of confirming the observations already made upon this subject.

We stood on towards this island all night, and the favourable ideas which were raised by the accounts of former navigators, made us pass some happy hours in expectation of the morning. We resolved to forget our fatigues and the inclemencies of southern climates; the clouds which had hitherto hung lowering upon our brows were dispersed; the loathed images of disease and the terrors of death were fled, and all our cares at rest.

________ Somno positi sub nocte silenti

Lenibant curas, et corda oblita laborum. Virgil.

;

CHAP. VIII.

Anchorage in O-Aitepeha harbour, on the lesser peninsula of O-Taheitee - Account of our stay there. - Removal to Matavai Bay.

Devenere locos lӕtos et amœna vireta

Fortunatorum nemorum, sedesque beatas.

Largior hic campos ӕther, et lumine vestit

Purpureo.

Virgil.

[1773. August.][Monday 16.]IT was one of those beautiful mornings which the poets of all nations have attempted to describe, when we saw the isle of O-Taheite, within two miles before us. The east-wind which had carried us so far, was entirely vanished, and a faint breeze only wafted a delicious perfume from the land, and curled the surface of the sea. The mountains, clothed with forests, rose majestic in various spiry forms, on which we already perceived the light of the rising sun: nearer to the eye a lower range of hills, easier of ascent, appeared, wooded like the former, and coloured with several pleasing hues of green, soberly mixed with autumnal browns. At their foot lay the plain, crowned with its fertile bread-fruit trees, over which rose innumerable palms, the princes of the grove. Here every thing seemed as yet asleep, the morning scarce dawned, and a peaceful shade still rested on the landscape. We discerned however, a number of houses among the trees, and many canoes hauled up along the sandy beaches. About half a mile from the shore a ledge of rocks level with the water, extended parallel to the land, on which the surf broke, leaving a smooth and secure harbour within. The sun beginning to illuminate the plain, its inhabitants arose, and enlivened the scene. Having perceived the large vessels on their coast, several of them hastened to the beach, launched their canoes, and paddled towards us, who were highly delighted in watching all their occupations.

The canoes soon passed through the openings in the reef, and one of them approached within hale. In it were two men almost naked, with a kind or turban on the head, and a sash round their waist. They waved a large green leaf, and accosted us with the repeated exclamation of tayo [68] See Bougainville's Voyage, English Edition, p. 217. ! which even without the help of vocabularies, we could easily translate into the expression of proffered friendship. The canoe now came under our stern, and we let down a present of beads, nails, and medals to the men. In return, they handed up to us a green stem of a plantane, which was their symbol of peace, with a desire that it might be fixed in a conspicuous part of the vessel. It was accordingly stuck up in the main shrouds, upon which our new friends immediately returned towards the land. In a short time we saw great crouds of people on the seashore gazing at us, while numbers in consequence of this treaty of peace, which was now firmly established, launched their canoes, and loaded them with various productions of their country. In less than an hour we were surrounded by an hundred canoes, each of which carried one, two, three, and sometimes four persons, who placed a perfect confidence in us, and had no arms whatsoever. The welcome sound of tayo resounded on all sides, and we returned it with a degree of heart-felt pleasure, on this favourable change of our situation. Coco-nuts, and plantanes in great quantity, bread-fruit and several other vegetables, besides some fresh fish were offered to us, and eagerly exchanged for transparent beads, and small nails. Pieces of cloth, fish-hooks, hatchets of stone, and a number of tools, were likewise brought for sale and readily disposed of; and many canoes kept plying between us and the shore, exhibiting a picture of a new kind of fair. I immediately began to trade for natural productions through the cabin-windows, and in half an hour had got together two or three species of unknown birds, and a great number of new fishes, whose colours while alive were exquisitely beautiful. I therefore employed the morning in sketching their outlines, and laying on the vivid hues, before they disappeared in the dying objects.

The people around us had mild features, and a pleasing countenance; they were about our size, of a pale mahogany brown, had fine black hair and eyes, and wore a piece of cloth round their middle of their own manufacture, and another wrapped about the head in various picturesque shapes like a turban. Among them were several females, pretty enough to attract the attention of Europeans, who had not seen their own country-women for twelve long months past. These wore a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle, through which they had passed the head, so that one part of the garment hung down behind, and the other before, to the knees; a fine white cloth like a muslin, was passed over this in various elegant turns round the body, a little below the breast, forming a kind of tunic, of which one turn sometimes fell gracefully across the shoulder. If this dress had not entirely that perfect form, so justly admired in the draperies of the ancient Greek statues, it was however infinitely superior to our expectations, and much more advantageous to the human figure, than any modern fashion we had hitherto seen. Both sexes were adorned, or rather disfigured, by those singular black stains, occasioned by puncturing the skin, and rubbing a black colour into the wounds, which are mentioned by former voyagers. They were particularly visible on the loins of the common men, who went almost naked, and exhibited a proof how little the ideas of ornament of different nations agree, and yet how generally they all have adopted such aids to their personal perfection. It was not long before some of these good people came aboard. That peculiar gentleness of disposition, which is their general characteristic, immediately manifested itself in all their looks and actions, and gave full employment to those, who made the human heart their study. They expressed several marks of affection in their countenance, took hold of our hands, leaned on our shoulder, or embraced us. They admired the whiteness of our bodies, and frequently pushed aside our clothes from the breast, as if to convince themselves that we were made like them.

Many of them seeing us desirous of learning their language, by asking the names of various familiar objects, or repeating such as we found in the vocabularies of former voyagers, took great pains to teach us, and were much delighted when we could catch the just pronunciation of a word. For my own part, no language seemed easier to acquire than this; every harsh and sibilant consonant being banished from it, and almost every word ending in a vowel. The only requisite, was a nice ear to distinguish the numerous modification of their vowels, which must naturally occur in a language confined to few consonants, and which, once rightly understood, give a great degree of delicacy to conversation. Amongst several other observations, we immediately found that the O or E with which the greatest part of the names and words in lieutenant Cook's first voyage, begin, is nothing else than the article, which many eastern languages affix to the greater part of their substantives. In consequence of this remark, I shall always in the sequel either omit this prefix, or separate it from the word itself by a hyphen: and I cannot help taking notice that M. de Bougainville has been fortunate enough to catch the name of the island without the additional O, and expressed it as well as the nature of the French language will permit, by Taïti, which, with the addition of a slight aspirate, we pronounce Taheâtee or Tahitee.

Seeing an opening in the reef before us, which was the entrance to the harbour of Whaï-Urua, in the lesser peninsula of O-Taheitee, we sent a boat to sound in it, which found convenient anchorage. The boat afterwards proceeded to the shore, where a croud of the natives gathered round it, and we heard the squeaking of pigs, which was at this time a more welcome sound to us, than the music of the most brilliant performer. Our people, however, were not so fortunate as to purchase any of them, all their offers being constantly refused, under the pretext that these animals belonged to the aree, or king.

A canoe now came alongside, of a somewhat larger size than the rest, and brought a handsome man, above six feet high, and three women, who all came on board. The man who immediately informed us, that his name was O-Taï, seemed to be a person of some consequence in this part of the island, and we supposed he belonged to that class of vassals, or freeholders, who are called Manahounas in the first voyage of captain Cook. He came on the quarter-deck, to all appearance thinking, that a place where our chiefs were stationed, best became him. He was remarkable fairer than any of the natives we had yet seen, and resembled in colour the West Indian Mestizos. His features were really handsome and regular; he had a high forehead, arched eyebrows, large black eyes, sparkling with expression, and a well-proportioned nose; there was something remarkably sweet and engaging about his mouth; the lips were prominent, but not disagreeably large; and his beard was black, and finely frizzled; his hair was of a jetty colour, and fell in strong curls down his neck; but seeing that we all had ours queued, he made use of a black silk neckcloth, which Mr. Clerke made him a present of, to imitate our fashion. The body was in general well proportioned, though somewhat too lusty, and his feet were rather too large to harmonize perfectly with the rest. By the help of vocabularies we asked this man several questions. One of the first was, whether Tootahàh was well? to this we were answered, that he was dead, being killed by the men of Tiarraboo, or the smaller peninsula, and that O-Aheatua was e‑aree or the king of the latter; which was confirmed by all the other natives. Of his three female companions, one was his wife, and the other two his sisters: the latter took great pleasure in teaching us to call them by their names, which were both sufficiently harmonious, one was called Maroya, and the other Maroraï. They were still fairer than O-Taï, but their stature was small in comparison to his, being at least nine or ten inches less. The last mentioned was a graceful figure, with the most delicate and beautiful contours, in the hands and all above the zone. Their face was round, and their features far from being so regular as those of the brother; but an ineffable smile sat on their countenances. They seemed never to have been aboard of a ship before, so much were they struck with admiration on beholding its variety of objects. They did not content themselves with looking around the deck, but descended into the officers cabins, whither a gentleman conducted them, and curiously examined every part. Maroraï took a particular fancy to a pair of sheets which she saw spread on one of the beds, and made a number of fruitless attempts to obtain them from her conductor. He proposed a special favour as the condition; she hesitated some time, and at last with seeming reluctance consented; but when the victim was just led to the altar of Hymen, the ship struck violently on the reef, and interrupted the solemnity. The affrighted lover, more sensible of the danger than his fair mistress, flew in haste upon deck, whither all the rest of our people crowded from their several occupations. The tide, during a perfect calm, had driven us by insensible degrees towards the reef of rocks; and actually set us upon it, before we could come into the entrance of the harbour, which was as it were within our reach. Repeated shocks made our situation every moment more terrifying; however, providentially there was no swell which broke with any violence on the rocks, and the sea breeze, which must have brought on absolute destruction to us, did not come in all day. The officers, and all the passengers, exerted themselves indiscriminately on this occasion, hoisted out the launch, and afterwards by heaving upon an anchor, which had been carried out to a little distance, succeeded in bringing the vessel afloat. The natives on board, seeing us work so hard, assisted us in manning the capstan, hauling in ropes, and performing all sorts of labour. If they had had the least spark of a treacherous disposition, they could not have found a better opportunity of distressing us; but they approved themselves good-natured, and friendly in this, as on all other occasions. The heat during this violent exertion of our strength was immense; the thermometer being upwards of ninety degrees in the shade, and the sun blazing in a perfectly clear sky. The Adventure was close to us, and escaped sharing the same distresses, by dropping an anchor in time. It was another fortunate circumstance, that the reef shelved in this place so as to admit of anchorage, which is indeed rarely the case, the coral rock being perpendicular in most parts. It was about three o'clock when we were afloat again, after working for about an hour and a half. We now took some refreshments in a hurry, and as our situation was still extremely precarious, in case an easterly wind had come on, we manned the boats of both sloops, and were towed off to sea, where we felt a land-breeze gently swelling our sails, about five o'clock. As soon as we were sure of it, we dispatched the boats to the assistance of the Adventure; but she had already slipped her cables, in order to take advantage of the favourable wind, and followed us. We stood off and on all night, and saw the dangerous reefs illuminated by a number of fires, by the light of which the natives were fishing. One of the officers retiring to rest, found his bed deprived of the sheets, which in all probability the fair Maroraï had taken care of, when forsaken by her lover; though she must have managed this little concern with considerable ingenuity, as she had appeared on deck before any suspicion had fallen upon her.

[Tuesday 17.]The next morning we resumed our course towards the shore, and stood in along the north part of the lesser peninsula. We were in a short time surrounded, as the day before, by the natives, who in a great number of canoes brought us abundance of vegetable, but no animal food, and whose clamours were sometimes loud enough to stun our ears. These canoes very frequently overset, but the natives were not much discomposed by such accidents, as both sexes were expert swimmers, and re-established themselves in a moment. Seeing that I enquired for plants, and other natural curiosities, they brought off several, though sometimes only the leaves without the flowers, and vice versa; however, among them we saw the common species of black night-shade, and a beautiful erythrina, or coral-flower; I also collected by these means many shells, coralines, birds, &c.

About eleven o'clock we anchored in a little harbour called O-Aitepeha, on the north-east end of the southern or lesser peninsula of Taheitee, named Tiarraboo. Here the concourse of natives still increased, and we saw their canoes coming towards us from all parts. They were eager to obtain our beads, nails, and knives, for which an immense quantity of their cloth, mats, baskets, and various tools, as well as abundance of coco-nuts, bread-fruit, yams, and bananas were exchanged. Many of them came on deck, and took the opportunity of conveying away a number of trifles; nay, some went so far as privately to throw over board the coco-nuts, which we had already purchased, to their comrades, who immediately picked them up, and sold them to our people again. To prevent our being imposed upon for the future in this manner, the thieves were turned out of the vessel, and punished with a whip, which they bore very patiently.

The heat was as great as it had been the day before, the thermometer standing at 90° in the shade, when the sky was covered with clouds; the wind likewise dying away again at noon to a perfect calm. Notwithstanding the waste of fluids which the weather occasioned, we could not say that we found the climate affected us too much, or was very disagreeable. On the contrary, allowing for the violent exercise we had undergone at the striking of the ship, we found ourselves more refreshed by the bare proximity of the shore, than we could have expected. The bread-fruit and yams proved a luxurious and most welcome substitute for worm-eaten biscuit; while plantanes, and a fruit of the shape of an apple, called e-vee by the natives, furnished out a delicious desert. Our only remaining wish, with regard to eatables, was to be able to purchase some hogs and fowls, which might supply the place of salt beef.

In the afternoon the captains, accompanied by several gentlemen, went ashore the first time, in order to visit O-Aheatua, whom all the natives thereabouts acknowledged as aree, or king. Numbers of canoes in the mean while surrounded us, carrying on a brisk trade with vegetables, but chiefly with great quantities of the cloth made in the island. The decks were likewise crouded with natives, among whom were several women who yielded without difficulty to the ardent sollicitations of our sailors. Some of the females who came on board for this purpose, seemed not to be above nine or ten years old, and had not the least marks of puberty. So early an acquaintance with the world seems to argue an uncommon degree of voluptuousness, and cannot fail of affecting the nation in general. The effect, which was immediately obvious to me, was the low stature of the common class of people, to which all these prostitutes belonged. Among this whole order we saw few persons above the middle size, and many below it; an observation which confirms what M. de Buffon has very judiciously said on the subject of early connections of the sexes, (see his Histoire Naturelle). Their features were very irregular, and in general very ordinary, except the eyes, which were always large and full of vivacity; but a natural smile, and a constant endeavour to please, had so well replaced the want of beauty, that our sailors were perfectly captivated, and carelessly disposed of their shirts and cloaths to gratify their mistresses. The simplicity of a dress which exposed to view a well proportioned bosom and delicate hands, might also contribute to fan their amorous fire; and the view of several of these nymphs swimming nimbly all round the sloop, such as nature had formed them, was perhaps more than sufficient entirely to subvert the little reason which a mariner might have left to govern his passions. A trifling circumstance had given cause to their taking the water. One of the officers on the quarter-deck intended to drop a bead into a canoe for a little boy about six years old; by accident it missed the boat and fell into the sea; but the child immediately leaped overboard, and diving after it brought it up again. To reward his performance we dropped some more beads to him, which so tempted a number of men and women, that they amused us with amazing feats of agility in the water, and not only fetched up several beads scattered at once, but likewise large nails, which, on account of their weight, descended quickly to a considerable depth. Some of them continued a long while under water, and the velocity with which we saw them go down, the water being perfectly clear, was very surprising. The frequent ablutions of these people, already mentioned in Captain Cook's former voyage, seem to make swimming familiar to them from their earliest childhood; and indeed their easy position in the water, and the pliancy of their limbs, gave us reason to look on them almost as amphibious creatures. They continued this sport, and their other occupations about us, till sun-set, when they all withdrew by degrees to the shore.

In the evening the captains with their company returned on board, without having seen the king, who, perhaps mistrusting their intentions, had sent word, that he intended to visit us the next day. They had taken a walk along the shore to the eastward, attended by a great croud of the natives, who insisted on carrying them on their shoulders over a fine brook. After they had passed it, the natives left them, and they proceeded accompanied by one man, who guided them to an uncultivated projecting point, where different kinds of plants grew in wild luxuriance among several sorts of shrubs. On coming out of the shrubbery they saw a building of stones, in form of the frustum of a pyramid; the base might measure about twenty yards in front, and the whole consisted of several terraces or steps above each other, which were ruinous and overgrown with grasses and shrubs, especially on the back or inland part. This the native said was a burying-place and place of worship, marài, and distinguished it by the name of marai no-Aheatua , the burying-place of Aheatua, the present king of Tiarroboo. Around it were placed perpendicularly, or nearly so, fifteen slender pieces of wood, some about eighteen feet long, in which six or eight diminutive human figures of a rude unnatural shape were carved, standing above each other, male or female promiscuously, yet so that the uppermost was always a male. All these figures faced the sea, and perfectly resembled some which are carved on the sterns of their canoes, and which they call e-tee. Beyond the morai they saw a kind of thatch erected on four posts, before which a lattice of sticks was placed in the ground, hung with bananas and cocoa-nuts no t'Eatua, " for the Divinity" . They sat down to rest themselves under the shade of this roof, and their guide seeing them a good deal exhausted, took several of the bananas and offered them, with the assurance that they were mâa maitai, " good eating" . They accepted them after this recommendation, and finding them really as delicious as they had been described, made no scruple to feast with the gods. As the evening was now advancing, they returned to the sea-shore, well pleased with their reception among these good-natured people, and brought on board a few plants, which we soon recognized as the productions common to tropical countries.

[Wednesd. 18.]We contemplated the scenery before us early the next morning, when its beauties were most engaging. The harbour in which we lay was very small, and would not have admitted many more vessels besides our own. The water in it was as smooth as the finest mirrour, and the sea broke with a snowy foam around us upon the outer reef. The plain at the foot of the hills was very narrow in this place, but always conveyed the pleasing ideas of fertility, plenty, and happiness. Just over against us it ran up between the hills into a long narrow valley, rich in plantations, interspersed with the houses of the natives. The slopes of the hills, covered with woods, crossed each other on both sides, variously tinted according to their distances; and beyond them, over the cleft of the valley, we saw the interior mountains shattered into various peaks and spires, among which was one remarkable pinnacle, whose summit was frightfully bent to one side, and seemed to threaten its downfall every moment. The serenity of the sky, the genial warmth of the air, and the beauty of the landscape, united to exhilarate our spirits.

The launches of both ships were sent to o Whai-urua , to fetch the anchors which we had left there when we struck on the reef. A party of marines and seamen were ordered on shore at the same time, to carry on a trade for provisions, and to fill our empty casks with fresh water. For this purpose they occupied the remains of an abandoned shed or cottage on the beach, which at once gave them shelter from the sun, and secured them against the thievish disposition of the people. Before captain Cook went ashore he received a visit from a man of some note, called o-Poòe, who brought his two sons on board. They presented the captain with some of their cloth and some little trifles, and in return they received knives, nails, beads, and a shirt, in which having dressed themselves, they accompanied us to the shore.

Our first care was to leave the dry sandy beach, which could afford us no discoveries in our science, and to examine the plantations, which from the ships had an enchanting appearance, notwithstanding the brownish cast which the time of the year had given. We found them indeed to answer the expectations we had formed of a country described as an elysium by M. de Bougainville, (see the English edition, p. 228). We entered a grove of bread-trees, on most of which we saw no fruit at this season of winter, and followed a neat but narrow path, which led to different habitations, half hid under various bushes. Tall coco-palms nodded to each other, and rose over the rest of the trees; the bananas displayed their beautiful large leaves, and now and then one of them still appeared loaded with its clustering fruit. A sort of shady trees, covered with a dark-green foliage, bore golden apples, which resembled the anana in juiciness and flavour. Betwixt these the intermediate space was filled with young mulberry-trees ( morus papyrifera), of which the bark is employed by the natives in the manufacture of their cloth; with several species of arum or eddies, with yams, sugar-canes, and other useful plants.

We found the cottages of the natives scattered at short distances, in the shade of fruit-trees, and surrounded by various odoriferous shrubs, such as the gardenia, guettarda, and calophyllum. The next simplicity of their structure gave us no less pleasure than the artless beauty of the grove which encompassed them. The pandang [69] Athrodactylis. Char. Gen. Novor. Forster. London 1776. Bromelia sylvestris. Linn. Flor. Zeyl. Keura. Forskal. Flora Arab. Pandanus. Rumph. Amboin. or palm-nut tree had given its long prickly leaves to thatch the roofs of the buildings, and these were supported by a few pillars made of the bread-tree, which is thus useful in more respects than one. As a roof is sufficient to shelter the natives from rains and nightly dews, and as the climate of this island is perhaps one of the happiest in the world, the houses seldom have any walls, but are open on all sides. We saw, however, a few dwellings constructed for greater privacy, which were entirely enclosed in walls of reeds, connected together by transverse pieces of wood, so as to give us the idea of large bird-cages. In these there was commonly a hole left for the entrance, which could be closed up with a board. Before every hut, on the green turf or on dry grass, we observed groups of inhabitants lying down or fitting in the eastern stile, and passing their happy hours away in conversation or repose. Some of them got up at our approach, and joined the croud that followed us; but great numbers, especially those of a mature age, remained in their attitude, and only pronounced a kind tayo as we passed by them. Our attendant croud seeing us gather plants, were very ready to pluck and offer the same sorts to us, which they found attracted our notice. Indeed a variety of wild species sprung up amidst the plantations, in that beautiful disorder of nature, which is so truly admirable when checked by the hand of industry, and infinitely surpasses the trimness of regular gardens. Among them we found several species of grasses, which though thinner than in our northern countries, yet by growing always in the shade, looked fresh and formed a soft bed of verdure. The soil was by their means kept sufficiently moist to give nourishment to the trees, and both were in a thriving state, owing to the reciprocal assistance which they gave each other. Various little birds dwelt in the shade of the bread-fruit and other trees, and had a very agreeable note, though common report among Europeans has denied the powers of harmony (I know not on what grounds) to the birds of warm climates. The heads of the tallest coco-trees were the usual residence of a kind of very small perroquets of a beautiful sapphirine blue, while another sort of a greenish colour, with a few red spots, were more common among the bananas, and appeared frequently tame in the houses of the natives, who seemed to value them for their red feathers. A king's fisher, of a dark-green, with a collar of the same hue round his white throat, a large cuckoo, and several sorts of pigeons or doves, were frequently seen hopping from branch to branch, and a bluish heron gravely stalked along the sea side, picking up shell-fish and worms. A fine brook, rolling over a bed of pebbles, came down a narrow valley, and supplied our waterers at its discharge into the sea. We followed its stream for a little while till we were met by a great croud of natives at the heels of three men, dressed in various pieces of their red and yellow cloth, and provided with elegant turbans of the same. Each of them had a long stick or wand in his hand, and one of them was accompanied by a woman, whom upon enquiry we found to be his wife. We demanded what their appearance meant, and were answered they were the Te-apoo-nee; but when they observed we did not understand enough of their language to comprehend this term, they added that they were Tata-no-t'Eatooa, men belonging to the divinity, and to the Marai, or burying-place; I suppose we might call them priests. We stopped with them some time, but as we did not see that any religious, or other ceremony was performed, we returned to the beach. About noon captain Cook re-imbarked with us, and with the two sons of O-Poe mentioned page 269, without having seen Aheatua, who for reasons unknown to us, still refused to admit us to his presence.

The two young fellows sat down to dinner with us, and partook of the vegetables, but did not touch our salt provisions. After dinner, one of them took an opportunity of stealing a knife and a pewter spoon, not contented with a number of presents which he had received from the captain, without having made any return on his part, and which ought to have prevented him from infringing the laws of hospitality. The theft being discovered, he was kicked from the deck, jumped overboard, and swam to the next canoe, where he seated himself, perhaps in defiance of our power. Captain Cook fired a musket over his head, upon which he took to the water again, and overset the canoe. A second musket was levelled at him, but he dived when he saw the flash, and did the same when the third was discharged. Captain Cook now manned his boat, and went to take the canoe, under which the man took shelter; but he soon abandoned it, and swam to a double canoe near the first, which was accordingly pursued. This canoe however got ashore through the surf, and the natives on the beach took up stones, which they levelled at our boat's crew, who thought it adviseable to retreat. However, a four pounder directed towards the shore, frightened the inhabitants sufficiently, so that our people could seize large double canoes, and bring them along-side of the ship.

We left the ship after this disturbance, in order to take an afternoon's walk ashore near the watering-place, and to restore the confidence of the people, who had entirely forsaken us on account of our open hostilities. We pursued a different path from that which we had taken in the morning, and found great quantities of bananas, yams, eddies, &c. planted round every cottage, inhabited by friendly good-natured people, who seemed however a little more shy or reserved than usual, on account of what had happened. At last we arrived at a large house, neatly constructed of reeds, which we were told belonged to Aheatua, who was in another district at present. Here we saw a hog, and a couple of fowls, the first which the natives exposed to our sight, having hitherto been very careful to conceal them, and always refusing to part with them, under the pretext that they were the property of the aree or king. They made use of the same excuse at present, though we offered a hatchet, which in their eyes was the most valuable merchandise we had. After a short stay, we returned the same way we came, and brought a small collection of new plants on board. About sun-set a boat was sent off, out of the harbour. to bury in the sea one Isaac Taylor, a marine, who died this morning of a complication of disorders. Ever since we had left England, this man had been feverish, consumptive, and asthmatic; his complaints always kept increasing, and at last turned to a dropsy, which carried him off. All our people on board were now well, except one, whose remarkable scorbutic habit of body always laid him up as soon as we came out to sea, where prophylactics and wort could but just keep him alive. However this man, as well as the Adventure's crew, who were much affected with the scurvy when they came in here, recovered amazingly by walking on shore, and eating quantities of fresh fruit.

[Thursday 19.]Early the next morning some of the natives came off to us in a small canoe, and begged for the restitution of those larger ones which had been taken from them on the day before. Captain Cook, who perceived the trade to have slackened in consequence of that seizure, none of the inhabitants coming to the ship, and few to the watering-place, returned the canoes, as the best means to reconcile us to the confidence of the natives; and though the effects of his indulgence were not instantaneous, yet in a day or two our trade was perfectly re-established.

After this peaceful prelude we went on shore, in pursuit of botanical discoveries. A smart shower of rain which had fallen over night, had cooled the air considerably, and made our walk extremely pleasant, before the sun could become troublesome. The whole country had profited by this rain, for every plant and tree seemed revived by it, and the groves exhaled a sweet refreshing smell. Whether it was owing to the early hour of our excursion, or to the beauty of the morning, our ear was saluted by the song of many small birds, which enlivened this delightful country. We had not walked far, when we heard a loud noise in the wood, which resembled the strokes of a carpenter's hammer. We followed the sound, and at last came to a small shed, where five or six women were sitting on both sides of a long square piece of timber, and beat the fibrous bark of the mulberry-tree here, in order to manufacture it into cloth. The instrument they used for this purpose was a square wooden club, with longitudinal and parallel furrows, which run smaller and closer together on the different sides [70] See Dr. Hawkesworth's compilation, vol. II. p. 212, and plate No. 9. . They ceased a little while to give us time to examine the bark, the mallet, and the timber on which they performed their operations. They also shewed us a kind of glutinous water in a coco-nut shell, which was made use of from time to time, to make the pieces of bark cohere together. This glue, which, as we understood, was made of the hibiscus esculentus, is indispensibly necessary in the manufacture of those immense pieces of cloth, sometimes two or three yards wide, and fifty yards long, which are composed of little bits of bark, taken from trees never so thick as the wrist. We carefully examined their plantations of mulberry-trees, but never found a single old one among them; as soon as they are of two years growth they are cut down, and new ones spring up from the root, for fortunately this tree is one of the most prolific in nature, and if suffered to grow till it flowered and could bear fruits, might perhaps totally over-run the country. The bark must always be taken from young trees; and these are carefully drawn into long stems, without any branches, except just at the top, so that the bark is as entire as possible. The method of preparing it before it comes under the mallet, we were not yet acquainted with at this time. The women employed in this manner, were dressed in old and dirty rags of their cloth, and had very hard and callous hands. We proceeded a little farther up in a narrow valley, where a well-looking man invited us to sit down in the shade before his house. There was a little area paved with broadish stones, on which he spread banana leaves for us, and brought out a little stool made of the bread tree-wood, cut out of one piece, on which he desired one of us to sit down, whom he took to be the principal person. Seeing us all seated he ran into his house, and brought out a quantity of bread-fruit baked, which he laid before us on fresh banana leaves. To this he added a matted basket full of the vee, or Taheitee apples, a fruit of the spondias genus, which resembles the anâna, or pine-apple in the taste, and entreated us to partake of these refreshments. We breakfasted with a hearty appetite, sharpened by the exercise we had taken, the fine air of the morning, and the excellence of the provisions. We found the Taheitee method of dressing bread-fruit and other victuals, with heated stones under ground, infinitely superior to our usual way of boiling them; in the former all the juices remained, and were concentrated by the heat; but in the latter, the fruit imbibed many watery particles, and lost a great deal of its fine flavour and mealiness. To conclude this treat our host brought us five fresh coco-nuts, which he opened by pulling the fibres off with his teeth. The cool limpid liquor contained in them he poured into a clean cup, made of a ripe coco nut-shell, and offered that to each of us in our turns. The people in this country had on all occasions been good-natured and friendly, and for beads sometimes sold us coco-nuts and fruit, if we called for them; but we had not yet seen an instance of hospitality exercised in so complete a manner during our short stay. We therefore thought it our duty to recompense our friend as much as lay in our power, and presented him with a number of transparent beads and iron nails, with which he was highly satisfied and contented.

We continued our walk into the country from this seat of patriarchal hospitality, notwithstanding the uneasiness which many of the natives expressed, among the croud that followed us. When they saw us persist in our expedition, the greatest part of them dispersed to their different habitations, and only a few of them attended us, who made it their business to act as our guides. We came to the foot of the first hills, where we left the huts and plantations of the natives behind us, and ascended on a beaten path, passing through an uncultivated shrubbery mixed with several tall timber-trees. Here we searched the most intricate parts, and found several plants and birds hitherto unknown to natural historians. With these little acquisitions we returned towards the sea, at which our friends the natives expressed their satisfaction. We found a vast concourse of inhabitants on the beach at our trading place, and saw that our people had brought a great quantity of large eddies and other roots, but few bread-fruits, which were now very scarce, only a few trees bearing them so late in the season, while most of the others were already shooting forth the embryo of a new crop. The excessive heat of the sun, now tempted us to bath in a branch of the adjacent river, which formed a deep pond of some extent; and being refreshed with this bath we returned on board to dinner. In the afternoon we had heavy rains, attended with wind, during which the Adventure drove from her moorings, but was brought up again by a timely manœvre. This bad weather confined us on board, where we arranged the plants and animals which we had hitherto collected, and made drawings of such as were not known before. Our three days excursions had supplied us only with a small number of species, which in an island so flourishing as Taheitee, gave a convincing proof of its high cultivation; for a few individual plants occupied that space, which in a country entirely left to itself, would have teemed with several hundred different kinds in wild disorder. The small size of the island, together with its vast distance from either the eastern or western continent, did not admit of a great variety of animals. We saw no other species of quadrupeds than hogs, and dogs which were domestic, and incredible numbers of rats, which the natives suffered to run about at pleasure, without ever trying to destroy them. We found however a tolerable number of birds, and when the natives gave themselves the trouble to fish, we commonly purchased a considerable variety of species, as this class of creatures can easily roam from one part of the ocean to the other, and particularly in the torrid zone, where certain sorts are general all round the world.

If the scarcity of spontaneous plants was unfavourable to the botanist, still it had the most salutary effects with regard to the whole company on board of both our vessels, since their place was occupied by great quantities of wholesome vegetables. We daily bought abundance of yams, eddies, and Taheitee apples; together with some bananas and bread-fruit, which, on account of the season, were grown very scarce. The wholesome regimen which we had by this means been able to keep, had visibly, and I might almost say miraculously, operated to restore to their health, all those who were ill of the scurvy at our arrival; and the only inconvenience we felt from it was a kind of flux, owing to the sudden change of diet, with which a few of the people were afflicted. Not content with this fortunate supply, we could not help casting longing eyes towards the hogs which we saw in great numbers on all our excursions into the country, though the natives were always careful to hide them in low styes, covered over with boards, forming a kind of platform, on which they sat or lay down. We tried all possible means to engage the people to sell some of them to us, and offered hatchets, shirts, and other goods of value to the Taheitians, but still without success, their constant answer being, that these animals were the king's ( aree's) property. Instead of acquiescing in this refusal, and acknowledging the kind disposition of the natives, who furnished us at least with the means of recovering our strength, and restoring our sick, a proposal was made to the captains, by some persons in the ships, to sweep away by force a sufficient number of hogs for our use, and afterwards to return such a quantity of our goods in exchange to the natives, as we should think adequate to the spoil we had taken. This proposal, which nothing but the most tyrannical principles, and the meanest selfishness could have dictated, was received with the contempt and indignation which it justly deserved.

[Friday 20.]Our acquisitions in natural history being hitherto so inconsiderable, we had leisure every day to ramble in the country in search of others, as well as to pick up various circumstances which might serve to throw a light on the character, manners, and present state of the inhabitants.

On the 20th towards noon, I directed my walk, in company with several officers, to the eastern point of the harbour. We soon came to a rivulet, which was wide and deep enough to admit a canoe upon it, by means of which we ferried over to the opposite shore, where we perceived a house of some extent, among the bushes. Before it we saw a quantity of the finer sorts of Taheitee cloth spread out on the grass, which the natives told us, had been washed in the river; and close to the house, suspended on a pole, we observed a target of a semicircular form, made of wicker-work, and plaited strings (of the coco-nut fibres), covered with the glossy bluish-green feathers of a kind of pigeon, and ornamented with many shark's teeth, displayed in three co-centric semicircles; I enquired whether it was to be purchased, but was answered in the negative, and concluded that it was only exposed to the air, in the same manner as we are used to do from time to time, with things which we preserve in close boxes. A middle-aged man, who lay stretched at his ease in the hut, invited us to sit down by him, and curiously examined my dress; he had long nails on his fingers, upon which he valued himself not a little, and which I found were a mark of distinction, since only such persons, as had no occasion to work, could suffer them to grow to that length. The Chinese have the same custom, and pride themselves as much in it; but whether the Taheitians derive it from them, or whether chance has led them both to the same idea, without any communication with each other, is possibly beyond the art of Needham and Des Guignes to determine. In different corners of the hut we saw some women and some men, separately eating their dinner of bread-fruit and bananas, and both parties, as we approached them, desired us to partake of their provisions. The singular custom, which forces the sexes to shun each others company at their meals, is already mentioned by former voyagers, who have been equally unsuccessful with ourselves in discovering its cause.

We left this hut, and strolled through an odoriferous shrubbery to another, where we found O-Taï, his wife, and children, and his sisters Maroya and Maroraï. The officer who had lost his bed-sheets was with us, but thought it to no purpose to enquire for them, and rather tried to ingratiate himself with the fair one. Beads, nails, and various trifles were presented to her, which she readily accepted, but remained inexorable to the passionate sollicitations of her lover. As she had in all probability obtained the possession of the sheets, which she coveted, and for which alone she could have submitted to prostitution, it seems nothing could afterwards tempt her to admit the transient embraces of a stranger. This is the most likely construction we could put upon her conduct, and it became more probable to us, when we considered, that she belonged to a family of some note, and that, during captain Cook's long stay on the island in the Endeavour, there had been few, if any instances, that women among the better sort of people had demeaned themselves so far. After a short stay with them, I returned to our trading place, but finding all our boats gone off, ventured to embark in a single canoe, without an outrigger, and was safely brought on board the Resolution for a single bead, which was all I had left after this excursion.

[Saturday 21.]At day-break the next morning we went ashore again, on another walk to the eastward. We observed the plain to widen, as we advanced beyond the east point of Aitepèha harbour, and of course growing richer in bread-fruit and coco-nut trees, bananas, and other vegetable productions, on most of which we saw the buds of a future crop. The houses of the natives were likewise found to be more numerous, and many seemed to us neater and newer than those near our anchoring-place. In one of them, which was of the closer sort, walled in with reeds, we saw a great many bundles of cloth, and cases for targets suspended from the roof, all which, as well as the house itself, we were informed belonged to Aheatua. We walked about two miles in the most delightful groves or plantations of fruit-trees, where the natives were just returning to their various employments. Among them we easily noticed the manufacturers of cloth, by the hollow sound of the mallet. However, it must not be supposed, that the necessities of these people urgently required their constant application to work; for our appearance soon gathered a croud of them about us, who followed us all day as far as we went, and sometimes even neglected their meals on our account. It was not without some interested motives, that they attended upon us. Their general behaviour towards us was good-natured, friendly, and I may say officious; but they watched every opportunity of conveying away some trifles with amazing dexterity, and many among them, whenever we returned the kind looks they gave us, or smiled upon them, thought that a proper time to take advantage of our good disposition, and immediately with a begging tone said, tayo, pòë, "friend, a bead!" which, whether we complied with or refused, did not alter their good temper. When these petitions became too frequent, we used to mock them, by repeating their words in the same tone, which always produced a general peal of good-humoured laughter amongst them. Their conversation was commonly loud, and it seemed that our appearance was their principal topick; every new-comer was immediately made acquainted by the others with our names, which they reduced to a few vowels and softer consonants, and was entertained with a repetition of what we had said or done that morning. His first request was generally to hear a musket fired off, which we complied with on condition that he should shew us a bird as a mark. However, we were frequently at a loss how to behave, when he pointed out a bird at four or five hundreds yards distance, as they had no idea that the effects of our fire-arms were limited to a certain space. As it was not prudent to let them into this mystery, we always pretended that we could not see the bird, till we came near enough to shoot it. The first explosion frightened them considerably, and on some produced such violent consternation that they dropped down on the ground, or ran back about twenty yards from us, where they remained till we quieted their fears by professions of friendship, or till their more courageous brethren had picked up the bird which we had killed. But they soon became more familiar, and though they always expressed some sudden emotion, yet they conquered by degrees the appearance of fear.

Notwithstanding the friendly reception which we met with on all sides, the natives were very anxious to keep their hogs out of sight, and whenever we enquired for them seemed uneasy, and either told us they had none, or assured us they belonged to Aheatua their king. As we perceived their reluctance to part with these animals, we thought it best to take no farther notice of them, and though we saw great numbers of them confined in pigstyes almost in every hut, we pretended not to know that there were any, or not to care for them; this proceeding we always found had the good effect of encreasing the confidence of the people towards us.

Having advanced a mile or two, we sat down on a few large stones, which formed a kind of paved area before one of the cottages, and desired the inhabitants to bring us some bread-fruit and coco-nuts, in exchange for beads. They very readily supplied us with a quantity of each, on which we breakfasted. The croud who followed us, sat down at a distance from us, at our desire, in order that they might have no opportunity of snatching up any of our arms, or other apparatus, which we were obliged to lay out of our hands, while we made our meal. To add to our good cheer, we were presented with a coco-nut shell full of a kind of diminutive fresh fish, which the natives are used to eat raw, without any other sauce than salt water. We tasted them, and found them far from disagreeable; however, as we were not used to eat them without being dressed, we distributed them, with the remains of the fruit, to our favourites among the croud.

Thus refreshed, we continued our walk, but turned towards the hills, notwithstanding the importunities of the natives, who urged us to continue on the plain, which we easily perceived arose merely from their dislike to fatigue. We were not to be diverted from our purpose; but leaving behind us almost the whole croud, we entered, with a few guides, a chasm between two hills. There we found several wild plants which were new to us, and saw a number of little swallows flying over a fine brook, which rolled impetuously along. We walked up along its banks to a perpendicular rock, fringed with various tufted shrubberies, from whence it fell in a crystalline column, and was collected at the bottom into a smooth limpid pond, surrounded with many species of odoriferous flowers. This spot, where we had a prospect of the plain below us, and of the sea beyond it, was one of the most beautiful I had ever seen, and could not fail of bringing to remembrance the most fanciful descriptions of poets, which it eclipsed in beauty. In the shade of trees, whose branches hung over the water, we enjoyed a pleasant gale, which softened the heat of the day, and amidst the solemn uniform noise of the waterfall, which was but seldom interrupted by the whistling of birds, we sat down to describe our new acquisitions before they withered. Our Taheitian companions seeing us employed, likewise rested among the bushes, viewing us attentively and in profound silence. We could have been well pleased to have passed the whole day in this retirement; however, after finishing our notes, and feasting our eyes once more with the romantick scenery, we returned to the plain. Here we observed a great croud of the natives coming towards us, and at their near approach perceived two of our ship-mates, Mr. Hodges and Mr. Grindall, whom they surrounded and attended on their walk. We soon joined them, and resolved to continue our excursion together. A youth, of a very promising countenance, who had distinguished himself by shewing a particular attachment for these gentlemen, was entrusted with Mr. Hodges's port-folio, where he preserved the sketches and designs, which he had frequent opportunities of making on his walk. No favour, or mark of affection could I believe have given this youth so much real pleasure, as the confidence they had placed in him, upon which he seemed to value himself among his countrymen. Perhaps this circumstance, joined to the peaceable appearance of our gentlemen, who walked without arms of any kind, had a general effect upon all the people that surrounded us, as their familiarity and affection seemed much encreased. We entered a spacious hut together, where we saw a large family assembled. An old man, with a placid countenance, lay on a clean mat, and rested his head on a little stool, which served as a pillow. His head, which was truly venerable, was well furnished with fine locks of a silvery grey, and a thick beard as white as snow descended to his breast. His eyes were lively, and health sat on his full cheeks. His wrinkles, which characterize age with us, were few and not deep; for cares, trouble, and disappointment, which untimely furrow our brows, cannot be supposed to exist in this happy nation. Several little ones, whom we took to be his grand-children, and who, according to the custom of the country, were perfectly naked, played with their aged ancestor, while his actions and looks convinced us, that the simple way of living to which he had been used, had not yet blunted his senses. Several well-made men and artless nymphs, in whom youth supplied the want of beauty, surrounded the old man, and as we came in seemed to be in conversation after a frugal meal. They desired us to sit down on the mats among them, and we did not give them time to repeat their invitation. Their curiosity, which had perhaps never before been gratified with the sight of strangers, now prompted them to examine our dress and our arms, without bestowing their attention longer than a moment on any single object. They admired our colour, pressed our hands, seemed to wonder that we had no punctures on them, nor long nails on our fingers, and eagerly enquired for our names, which when known, they were happy to repeat. These names, as they pronounced them, were not so like the originals that an etymologist could easily have deduced them, but in return they were more harmonious, and easily pronounced. Forster was changed in Matara , Hodges into Oreo , Grindall into Terino , Sparrman into Pamanee , and George into Teoree . The hospitality which we had found under every roof, was not wanting here, and we were offered some coco-nuts and e-vees to quench our thirst after the last walk. One of the young men had a flute made of a bamboo, which had but three holes; he blew it with his nostrils [71] See Hawkesworth. , whilst another accompanied him with the voice. The whole music, both vocal and instrumental, consisted of three or four notes, which were between half and quarter notes, being neither whole tones nor semi-tones. The effect of these notes, without variety or order, was only a kind of drowsy hum, which could not indeed hurt the ear by its discordant sounds, but made no pleasing impression on our minds. It is surprising that the taste for music should be so general all over the world, when the ideas of harmony among different nations are so distinct! Charmed with the picture of real happiness, which was thus exhibited before us, Mr. Hodges filled his port-folio with several sketches, which will convey to future times the beauties of a scene, of which words give but a faint idea. While he was drawing, all the natives looked on with great attention, and were highly pleased to find out the resemblance between his performances and different persons among them. Our acquaintance with their language, which we were at great pains to improve, was as yet very imperfect, and deprived us of the pleasure which we might have received from a conversation with these good people. A few separate words, and an interlude of dumb mimickry, was all that we had to supply the place of a coherent speech. However, even this was sufficient to amuse the natives, and our docility and endeavours to please seemed to be at least as agreeable to them, as their social temper and willingness to give instruction appeared to us. The old man, without changing his attitude, and continuing to recline his head on the stool, asked us several little questions, such as the captain's name, the name of the country we came from, how long we should stay, whether we had our wives on board, &c. It seemed that he was already apprised of all these things by common report, but wished to have them confirmed from our own mouths. We satisfied his curiosity as well as we could on these points, and after distributing little presents of beads, medals, and other trifles to his family, we set forwards once more on our excursion. The many pauses which we made at the hospitable huts of the natives, always refreshed us so much, that we felt no manner of inconvenience, and could with ease have walked round the whole island in the same manner. The plain at the foot of the mountains offered no impediment to our progress; on the contrary, its paths were well beaten, and its whole surface perfectly level, and covered in many places with a fine growth of grasses. Not a single noxious animal appeared to deter us, and not even a gnat or musketoe hummed unpleasantly about us, or made us apprehensive of its bite. The bread-fruit groves, with their abundant foliage, intercepted the rays of the meridian sun, whose action was greatly mitigated by a fresh sea-breeze. The inhabitants however, who were used to pass the middle of the day in repose, dropt off one by one in the bushes, so that only a few remained with us. After we had walked about two miles farther to the south eastward, we came to the sea-shore at a place where it formed a little inlet. Here, surrounded on all sides with plantations, we met with a glade or lawn, in the midst of which we saw a maraï (burying-place) built up of three ranges of stones, like steps, each about three feet and a half in height, and covered with grasses, ferns, and small shrubs. Towards the country, at some distance from the building, there was an oblong enclosure round it made of stone, about three feet high, within which two or three solitary coco-palms and some young casuarinas, with their weeping branches, gave an air of solemnity and pleasing melancholy to the scene. At a little distance from the maraï, surrounded by a thick shrubbery, we saw an inconsiderable hut or shed, ( tupapow), where, on a kind of stage about breast high, a corpse was placed, covered with a white piece of cloth, which hung down in various folds. Young coco-trees and bananas were springing up, and dragon-trees blossoming around it. Near this we saw another hut, where a quantity of eatables lay for the divinity, ( eatua), and a pole was stuck in the ground, on which we saw a dead bird wrapped in a piece of a mat. In this last hut, which stood on a small eminence, we observed a woman sitting in a pensive attitude, who got up at our approach, and would not suffer us to come near her. We offered her a small present, but she refused to touch it. We understood from the natives who were with us, that she belonged to the maraï, and that the dead corse was also a woman's, whose obsequies the first perhaps was performing.

After Mr. Hodges had made several drawings we returned from this place, which had really something grand in its appearance, and seemed calculated to favour religious meditation. In our return we kept along the sea-shore, till we came to a spacious house, very pleasantly situated amidst a grove of low coco-palms, loaded with fruit. Two or three fried little fishes, which one of the natives sold us for a few beads, were here shared among us, to stay our appetite, grown very keen again since our breakfast. Several of our company likewise bathed in the sea, as a farther refreshment in this warm climate, and having afterwards bought some pieces of cloth, ( ahow's) of the country fabrick, dressed in them, after the Taheitee fashion, to the infinite pleasure of the natives. Our walk continued along the shore beyond another marai, much like the first, to a neat house, where a very fat man, who seemed to be a chief of the district, was lolling on his wooden pillow. Before him two servants were preparing his desert, by beating up with water some bread-fruit and bananas, in a large wooden bowl, and mixing with it a quantity of the fermented sour paste of bread-fruit, (called maheî). The consistence of this mixture was such, that it could properly be called a drink, and the instrument with which they made it, was a pestle of a black polished stone, which appeared to be a kind of basaltes [72] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 202. . While this was doing, a woman who sat down near him, crammed down his throat by handfuls the remains of a large baked fish, and several bread-fruits, which he swallowed with a voracious appetite. His countenance was the picture of phlegmatic insensibility, and seemed to witness that all his thoughts centred in the care of his paunch. He scarce deigned to look at us, and a few monosyllables which he uttered, were only directed to remind his feeders of their duty, when we attracted their attention. The great degree of satisfaction which we had enjoyed on our different walks in this island, and particularly the pleasure of this day's excursion, was diminished by the appearance and behaviour of the chief, and the reflections which naturally arose from thence. We had flattered ourselves with the pleasing fancy of having found at least one little spot of the world, where a whole nation, without being lawless barbarians, aimed at a certain frugal equality in their way of living, and whose hours of enjoyment were justly proportioned to those of labour and rest. Our disappointment was therefore very great, when we saw a luxurious individual spending his life in the most sluggish inactivity, and without one benefit to society, like the privileged parasites of more civilized climates, fattening on the superfluous produce of the soil, of which he robbed the labouring multitude. His indolence, in some degree, resembled that which is frequent in India and the adjacent kingdoms of the East, and deserved every mark of indignation which Sir John Mandeville expressed in his Asiatic travels. That worthy knight, who, top-full of chivalry, and the valourous spirit of his time, devoted his life to constant activity, was highly incensed at the sight of a monster of laziness, who passed his days " withouten doynge of ony dedes of armes" , and lived " evermore thus in ese, as a swyn that is fedde in sty, for to ben made fatte" [73] For the satisfaction of my readers I shall here insert the account which the knight gives of the voluptuary who attracted his censure, especially as several little circumstances serve to make the similarity between him and the Taheitian chief more perfect. - " From that lond, in returnynge be ten jorneys thorge out the lond of the grete Chane, is another gode yle and a great kyngdom, where the kyng is fulle riche and myghty. And amonges the riche men of his contree is a passynge riche man, that is no prynce, ne duke, ne erl; but he hath mo that holden of him londes and other lordchipes: for he is more riche. For he hathe every zeer of annulle rente 300000 hors charged with corn of dyverse greynes and ryzs; and so he ledethe a fulle noble lif and a delycate, after the custom of the contree. For he hathe every day 50 fair damyseles, alle maydenes, that serven him evere more at his mete, and for to lye by him o night, and for to do with hem that is to his plesance. And when he is at the table, thei bryngen him hys mete, at every tyme 5 and 5 togedre. And in bryngynge hire servyce, thei syngen a song. And after that, thei kutten his mete, and putten it in his mouthe, for he touchethe no thing, ne handlethe nought, but holdethe everemore his hondes before him upon the table. For he hathe so longe nayles, that he may take nothing, ne handle no thing, for the noblesse of that contree is to have longe nayles, and to make hem growen alle ways to ben as longe as men may. - And alle weys theise damyseles, that I spak of beforn, syngen all the tyme that this riche man etethe: and whan that he etethe no more of his first cours, thanne other 5 and 5 of faire damyseles bryngen him his seconde cours alle weys syngynge as thei dide beforn. And so thei don contynuelly every day to the ende of his mete. And in this manere he ledethe his lif, and so did thei beforn him that weren his auncestres, and so schulle thei that comen aftre him." See the Voyages and Travaylls of Sir John Maundevile, knight , pag. 376. .

On leaving this Taheitian drone we separated, and I accompanied Mess. Hodges and Grindall, whose good-natured friend, the carrier of the port-folio, had earnestly invited us to his habitation. We arrived here towards five in the evening, and found it a small but cleanly cottage, before which a great abundance of fresh leaves were spread on a stony place, and a prodigious quantity of the best coco-nuts and well-roasted bread-fruit were laid out in fine order. He immediately ran to two elderly persons, who were busy in frightening the rats from this plentiful store of provisions, and introduced them to us as his parents. They expressed great joy on seeing the friends of their son, and entreated us to sit down to the meal which lay before us. We were at first struck with astonishment on finding it entirely prepared at our arrival, but we soon recollected that our friend had sent off one of his comrades several hours beforehand, very probably with directions to provide for our entertainment. As this was the first regular meal to which we sat down this day, it will easily be conceived that we fell to with a good appetite, and gave infinite satisfaction to the good-natured old people and the generous-minded youth, who all seemed to think themselves happy in the honour which we did to their excellent cheer. With such a venerable pair ministring to us, if I may be allowed to indulge in a poetical idea, we ran some risk of forgetting that we were men, and might have believed ourselves feasted by the hospitable Baucis and Philemon, if our inability to reward them had not reminded us of mortality. However, all the beads and nails which we could muster amongst us were offered to them, rather as a mark that we preserved a grateful sense of their good heart, than as any retribution. The youth went on with us to the beach opposite to our vessels, and brought on board a great quantity of provisions, which we had left unconsumed at our dinner. He was there presented with a hatchet, a shirt, and various articles of less value by his friends, and returned that very evening on shore to his parents, being probably enriched beyond his warmest expectation.

The usual trade had been carried on about the ships, and on the beach opposite to them, during our absence, without any material incident, except Captain Cook's meeting with Tuahow, the same native who had accompanied him a considerable way when he made the circuit of Taheitee in a boat, in the course of his first voyage [74] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 160, 162, &c. . We found him and two of his countrymen on board at our return, they having resolved to take up their night's lodging with us, which, though usual at Matavaï Bay during the Endeavour's voyage, none had hitherto ventured upon in this place. Tuahow being already familiarized with our way of living, and acquainted with the various objects which commonly struck his countrymen with wonder, eagerly entered into discourse with us, as he found us attentive to his questions. He enquired after Tabane , Mr. Banks; Tolano , Dr. Solander; Tupaya , (Tupia) and several persons in the Endeavour whose names he recollected. He rejoiced to hear that Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were well, and having often renewed his question, always received the same answer to it; upon which he asked whether they would not come back to Taheitee, accompanying it with a look which strongly expressed the wish of seeing them again. When he heard of Tupaya's death, he was desirous of being informed whether it had been violent or natural, and was well pleased to hear from such circumstances as we could by broken words and signs communicate to him, that sickness had put a period to his life. In return, we questioned him concerning the death of Tootahàh , who had appeared as the acting chief of the island in Captain Cook's former voyage. We plainly understood that a great naval fight had happened between that chief and old Aheatua [75] Called Waheatua in Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 157, 158. , the father of the present king of Tiarraboo in which neither party had gained a decisive advantage; but that Tootahàh afterwards marching his army across the isthmus, which separates the two peninsulas, had been defeated in an obstinate engagement, in which himself, Tuboraï-Tamaide, and many other persons of distinction on his side were slain. A peace was soon after concluded with O-Too the king of O-Taheitee [76] Called Outou in Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 154. , who, after Tootahàh's decease, had assumed the power of the sovereignty, of which before he had only enjoyed the title. Old Aheatua, according to Tuahow's account, died but a few months after this peace, and his son, of the same name, who, according to the custom of this country, had already, during his father's life-time, borne the title of te-aree [77] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 158, 159, 160, 175; where this title is constantly expressed as his name. (the king), and received the honours annexed to that dignity, now likewise succeeded to its more essential part, the management of affairs.

This subject being exhausted, we took out the map of O-Taheitee, (engraved for captain Cooke's former voyage) and laid it before Tuahow, without telling him what it was. He was however too good a pilot, not to find it out presently; and overjoyed to see a representation of his own country, immediately with his finger pointed out the situation of all the whennuas or districts upon it, naming them at the same time in their order, as we saw them written on the chart. When he came to O-Whai-urua the next district with a harbour, to the south of our present anchoring-place, he pulled us by the arm to look on attentively, and related that there had been a ship (paheï) which he called paheï no Peppe, and which had lain there five days; that the people in her had received ten hogs from the natives, and that one of the crew ran away from the ship, and now lived upon the island. From this account we concluded that the Spaniards had sent another vessel to examine O-Taheitee, probably first discovered by their navigators, and which of late years had been so frequently visited by the English, as might justly rouse their attention, on account of the proximity of their own extensive possessions in South America. Strange as it may seem, the name of Peppe confirmed us in our conjectures, notwithstanding its vast difference from España, from whence we supposed it originated; because we were by this time well acquainted with the custom of mutilating all foreign names, which the Taheitians possess, even in a higher degree than the French and English. We put several questions relative to this ship to Tuahow, but could never obtain any farther intelligence from him, except that the man who had left it, always accompanied Aheatua, and had given him the advice not to furnish us with any hogs. Whatever selfinterested or bigoted motives that man may have had to give Aheatua such an advice, yet it seems to have been in reality the most friendly and valuable which he could have offered to his protector. The way to keep the riches of his subjects, among which are their hogs in the country, and to prevent new wants from prevailing among a happy people, was to get rid of us as soon as he could, by denying us the refreshments of which we stood most in need. It were indeed sincerely to be wished, that the intercourse which has lately subsisted between Europeans and the natives of the South Sea islands may be broken off in time, before the corruption of manners which unhappily characterises civilized regions, may reach that innocent race of men, who live here fortunate in their ignorance and simplicity. But it is a melancholy truth, that the dictates of philanthropy do not harmonize with the political systems of Europe!

[Sunday 22.]Several of our people having taken a walk on shore, the next day returned on board with the news, that they had met with Aheatua, who was at last come to this district in order to give us an audience. They had been admitted into his presence without any ceremony, and his majesty, in the midst of all his court, had given up one half of his stool (pappa), to Mr. Smith, one of our mates, who was of the party. He had at the same time graciously assured him, that he wishes to speak to captain Cook, and had as many hogs to give him, as he had hatchets to pay for them, which was by far the most agreeable news we had heard for some time. They also reported that they had seen a man resembling an European in colour and feature, but that upon speaking to him, he had retired into the croud. Whether this was really an European, or whether the story which Tuahow had told us the evening before, had wrought upon the fancy of our men we cannot determine; so much however is certain, that none of us ever saw him afterwards.

[Monday 23.]In consequence of Aheatua's declaration, the captains, with several officers, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myself, went on shore early on the 23d. We proceeded about a mile along the river from which we filled our casks, being conducted by Opao one of the natives, who had lodged on board. A great croud coming down towards us, those who surrounded us pulled off their upper garments, so as to uncover their shoulders, which is a mark of respect due to the king. We presently joined the croud, in the midst of whom Aheatua sat down on a large stool, cut out of solid wood, which one of his people had hitherto carried. He immediately recollected captain Cook, and made room for him on his stool, while captain Furneaux, and the rest of us, chose large stones for our seats. An immense number of natives thronged about us on all sides, and included us in a very narrow circle, increasing the heat to such a degree, that the king's attendants were frequently obliged to keep them back, by beating them.

O-Aheatua, the king of O-Taheitee-eeteespan>, (Little Taheitee) which is otherwise called Tiarraboo, was a youth of seventeen or eighteen years of age, well-made, about five feet six inches high, and likely to grow taller. His countenance was mild, but unmeaning; and rather expressed some sign of fear and distrust at our first meeting, which suited ill with the ideas of majesty, and yet are often the characteristics of lawless power. His colour was of the fairest of his people, and his lank hair of a light-brown, turning into reddish at the tips, or being what is commonly called sandy. He wore at present no other dress than a white sash, (marro) round the waist to the knees, made of the best kind of cloth, and his head as well as all the rest of his body was uncovered. On both sides of him sat several chiefs and nobles, distinguishable by their superior stature, which is the natural effect of the immense quantity of food which they consume. One of them was punctured in a surprising manner, which we had never seen before, large black blotches of various shapes, almost covering his arms, legs, and sides. This man, whose name was E-Tee, was also remarkable for his enormous corpulence, and for the deference which the aree (king) paid to him, consulting him almost upon every occasion. The king, during the time he sat on the stool, which was his throne, preserved a grave or rather stiff deportment, scarce to be expected at his years, though it seemed to be studied and assumed, only to make our meeting more solemn. This may be looked upon as a kind of recommendation by some men, but it is unhappily a mask of hypocrisy, which we should hardly have expected at Taheitee. After the first salutation, captain Cook presented Aheatua with a piece of red baize, a bed-sheet, a broad axe, a knife, nails, looking-glasses, and beads; and my father gave him similar presents, among which was an aigrette or tuft of feathers fixed on a wire, and dyed of a bright crimson; upon this his majesty set a particular value, and at the sight of it the whole croud gave a general shout of admiration, expressed by the word awhay! The king now enquired for Mr. Banks, which only Tuahow had done before him, and then asked how long we intended to stay, expressing at the same time, that he wishes we might remain five months. Captain Cook's answer was, that as he did not receive sufficient supplies of provisions, he must sail immediately. The king confined his first request to one month, and at last to five days, but captain Cook persisted in his resolution; Aheatua then promised to send us hogs the next day, but as this had been repeatedly said without any consequence, we took no notice of it now; for even in a state so little refined as Tiarraboo, we found that the real benevolence of the middle class, which manifested itself towards us in hospitality and a number of good and noble actions, gave us no right to trust the specious politeness of the court and courtiers, who fed our hopes with empty promises.

During this conference the croud, amounting at least to five hundred persons, was so excessively noisy, that it was impossible at times to distinguish a word; and on those occasions some of the king's attendants with a Stentor's voice called out mamoò! (be silent), and enforced his command by dealing out hearty blows with a long stick. The aree seeing that captain Cook was not to be persuaded to prolong his stay in this harbour, got up, and walked down along the river with us, while his attendants carried his wooden stool, and the kingly presents which he had received. On this walk he laid aside the gravity, which was not natural to him, and talked with great affability to our common people. He desired me to tell him the names of all the persons from on board both sloops, who were present, to which he added the question, whether they had their wives on board! Being answered in the negative, his majesty in a fit of good humour desired them to look for partners among the daughters of the land, which they understood it was meant at present, in the light of a mere compliment. He sat down soon after close to a house of reeds, into which we all retired, when the sun appeared through the clouds. Here he called for some coco-nuts, and began to tell the story of the Paheï no Peppe, or Spanish ship, of which Tuahow had given us the first intimation. According to the king's account it seemed clear, that the ship had been at Whaï Urua five months before us, and had lain there ten days. He added, that the captain had hanged four of his people, and that the fifth had escaped the same punishment by running away. This European, whom they named O-Pahoòtu, we enquired after to no purpose, for a long while; till his majesty's attendants seeing us very eager to become acquainted with him, assured us he was dead. We have since heard that about the time mentioned by the natives, Don Juan de Langara y Huarte, sent out from the port of Callao in Peru,had visited O-Taheitee, but what the particulars of that voyage are, has never transpired. While we remained in the house E-Tee, the fat chief, who seemed to be the principal counsellor of the king, very seriously asked us, whether we had a God ( Eatuâ) in our country, and whether we prayed to him ( epoore)? When we told him, that we acknowledged a Divinity, who had made every thing, and was invisible, and that we also were accustomed to address our petitions to him, he seemed to be highly pleased, and repeated our words with notes of his own to several persons who sat round him. To us he seemed to signify, that the ideas of his country-men corresponded with ours in this respect. Every thing concurs indeed to convince us, that this simple and only just conception of the Deity, has been familiar to mankind in all ages and in all countries, and that only by the excessive cunning of a few individuals, those complex systems of absurd idolatry have been invented, which disgrace the history of almost every people. The love of empire, or the pursuit after voluptuousness and indolence, seem to have inspired the numerous branches of heathen priests with the idea of keeping the minds of the people in awe, by awakening their superstition. The natural love of the miraculous has made it easy for them not only to put their projects in execution, but likewise to weave their prejudices so firmly into the web of human knowledge, that to this moment the greater part of mankind pay them homage, and blindly suffer themselves to be cheated in the grossest manner.

While E-Tee was conversing on religious matters, king Aheatua was playing with Captain Cook's watch. After curiously examining the motion of so many wheels, that seemed to move as it were spontaneously, and shewing his astonishment at the noise it made, which he could not express otherwise than by saying it " spoke" ( parou), he returned it, and asked what it was good for. With a great deal of difficulty we made him conceive that it measured the day, similar to the sun, by whose altitude in the heavens he and his people are used to divide their time. After this explanation, he called it a little sun, to shew us that he perfectly understood our meaning. We were just getting up to return towards the beach, when a man arrived who brought a hog along with him, which the king presented to the captain, at the same time promising to give him another. With this small beginning we rested satisfied, and taking our leave, without any troublesome ceremony, only pronouncing a hearty tayo, (friend), which had more meaning in it than many a studied speech, we returned on board.

In the afternoon the captains went on shore with us again to the king, whom we found where we had left him in the morning. He took that opportunity of requesting the captains again to prolong their stay at least a few days; but he received the same answer as before, and was plainly told, that his refusing to provide us with live-stock was the reason of their intended departure. Upon this he immediately sent for two hogs, and presented one to each of the captains, for which he received some iron-wares in return. A highlander, who was one of our marines, was ordered to play the bagpipe, and its uncouth music, though almost insufferable to our ears, delighted the king and his subjects to a degree which we could hardly have imagined possible. The distrust which we perceived in his looks at our first interview was now worn off; and if we had staid long enough, an unreserved confidence might have taken its place, to which his youth and good-nature seemed to make him inclinable. The studied gravity which he had then affected, was likewise laid aside at present, and some of his actions rather partook of puerility, among which I cannot help mentioning his amusement of chopping little sticks and cutting down plantations of bananas with one of our hatchets. But, instead of cultivating any farther acquaintance with him, we took our last leave towards the close of the evening, and returned to the sloops, which unmoored before night.

[Tuesday 24.]The inhabitants seeing us prepare for sailing the next morning, came off in a vast number of small canoes, loaded with coco-nuts and other vegetable provisions, which they sold excessively cheap, rather than miss the last opportunity of obtaining European goods. The taste for baubles, which unaccountably prevails all over the world in different degrees, was so extravagant here, that a single bead was eagerly purchased with a dozen of the finest coco-nuts, and sometimes preferred even to a nail, though the last might be of some use, and the bead could serve merely as an insignificant ornament. We observed that the trade was carried on much fairer this time than at our arrival, the natives being perhaps apprehensive that any little fraud might break off a commerce, in which they now appeared deeply interested. They accompanied us for this purpose till we were a mile or two without the reefs, and then returned to the beach, where we had left lieutenant Pickersgill with a boat, in order to take advantage of their present disposition.

We were now able to breathe a little, after the continual hurry which had been the necessary consequence of the multiplicity of new objects around us, and of the short space of time which we had to observe them. This interval of repose was the more acceptable, as it gave us leisure to indulge the reflections which had crouded upon us during our stay. The result of these was a conviction, that this island is indeed one of the happiest spots on the globe. The rocks of New Zeeland appeared at first in a favourable light to our eyes, long tired with the constant view of sea, and ice, and sky; but time served to undeceive us, and gave us daily cause of dislike, till we formed a just conception of that rude chaotic country. But O-Taheitee, which had presented a pleasing prospect at a distance, and displayed its beauty as we approached, became more enchanting to us at every excursion which we made on its plains. Our long run out of sight of land might have been supposed at first to have had the same effect as at New Zeeland but our stay confirmed instead of destroying the emotions which we had felt at the first sight; even though we had no room to be so well pleased with the refreshments we had obtained, which were not by far so plentiful as the fish and wild-fowl of New Zeeland, and still obliged us to have recourse to salt provisions. The season of the year, which answered to our month of February, had naturally brought on a scarcity of fruits; for though it does not manifest itself here by refrigerating the air, as in countries remote from the tropics, yet it is the season when all vegetation recovers the juices which have formed the late crop, and prepares them for a new one. At this time several trees entirely shed their leaves, several plants died away to the very root, and the remaining ones looked parched on account of the want of rain, which commonly takes place then, because the sun is in the opposite hemisphere. The whole plain therefore was arrayed in a sober brownish and sometimes sallow colour. Only the lofty mountains preserved richer tints in their forests, which are supplied with more moisture from the clouds that hang on their summits almost every day. From thence, among other things, the natives brought great quantities of wild plantanes (vehee), and that perfumed wood ( e-ahaï), with which they give their coco-nut oil ( monòë), a very fragrant smell. The shattered state in which we saw the tops of these mountains, seemed to have been the work of an earthquake; and the lavas, of which many of the mountains consist, and of which the natives make several tools, convinced us of the existence of former volcanoes on this island. The rich soil of the plains, which is a vegetable mould, mixed with volcanic decays, and a black irony sand, which is often found at the foot of the hills, are farther proofs of this assertion. The exterior ranges of hills are sometimes entirely barren, and contain a great quantity of yellowish clay, mixed with iron-ochre; but others are covered with mould, and wooded like the higher mountains. Pieces of quartz are sometimes met with here, but we never saw indications of precious minerals or metals of any kind, iron excepted, and of that there were but small remains in the lavas which we picked up; but the mountains may perhaps contain some iron-ore rich enough for fusion. As to the piece of salt-petre, as big as an egg, which Captain Wallis mentions as a product of Taheitee [78] See Hawkesworth, vol. I. p. 457. , with all respect for his nautical abilities, I beg leave to doubt of its existence; since native salt-petre has never yet been found in solid lumps, as appears from Cronstedt's Mineralogy.

The view of O-Taheitee, along which we now sailed to the northward, suggested these cursory observations on its fossil productions, while our eyes remained eagerly fixed on the spot which had afforded us such a fund of real amusement and instruction. Our reflections were only interrupted by the summons to dine on fresh pork, which was instantly obeyed with an alacrity, that sufficiently proved our long abstinence. We were agreeably surprised to find this pork entirely free from the luscious richness which makes it resist the stomach so soon in Europe; the fat was to be compared to marrow, and the lean had almost the tender taste of veal. The vegetable diet which the hogs are used to at O-Taheitee, seems to be the principal cause of this difference, and may have had some influence even on the natural instincts of these animals. They were of that small breed which is commonly called the Chinese, and had not those pendulous ears, which according to the ingenious count de Buffon, are the characters of slavery in animals. They were likewise much cleanlier than our European hogs, and did not seem to have that singular custom of wallowing in the mire. It is certain that these animals are a part of the real riches of the Taheitians, and we saw great numbers of them at Aitepèha, though the natives took great pains to conceal them. But they are so far from being their principal dependence, that I believe their total extirpation would be no great loss, especially as they are now entirely the property of the chiefs. They kill their hogs very seldom, perhaps only on certain solemn occasions; but at those times the chiefs eat pork with the same unbounded greediness, with which certain sets of men are reproached at the turtle-feasts in England; while the common sort rarely, if ever taste a little bit, which is always held as a great dainty among them. Notwithstanding this, all the trouble of breeding, bringing up, and fattening the hogs is allotted to the lowest class of people.

[Wednesd. 25.]We were becalmed in the evening, and during a great part of the night, but had a S.E. wind the next morning, so that we stood in shore again, in sight of the northern-most part of O-Taheitee and of the adjacent isle of Eimeo. The mountains here formed larger masses, which had a more grand effect than at Aitepeha. The slopes of the lower hills were likewise more considerable, though almost entirely destitute of trees or verdure; and the ambient border of level land, was much more extensive hereabouts, and seemed in some places to be above a mile broad. Towards ten o'clock we had the pleasure to see several canoes coming off from the shore towards us. Their long narrow sails, consisting of several mats sowed together, their streamers of feathers, and the heap of coco-nuts and bananas on board, had all together a picturesque appearance. For a few beads and nails they disposed of their cargoes, and returned on shore to take in another. About noon our boat arrived with lieutenant Pickersgill, who had been very successful in trading at Aitepeha, having purchased nine hogs and a quantity of fruit. His majesty, Aheatua, had been present at the trading-place the whole time, and after seating himself near the heap of iron wares, which our people had brought on shore, desired to market for them, and was extremely equitable in giving hatchets of different kinds for hogs of proportionate sizes. In the intervals however, he amused himself as he had done the evening before, with chopping small sticks, with which our sailors were much entertained, and after their manner made many shrewd observations on triflers. Mr. Pickersgill having expended his stock in trade, put off from Aitepeha in the afternoon, and came the same evening to Hiddea, the district of O-Rettee (Ereti) where M. de Bougainville lay at an anchor in 1768. Here he was hospitably entertained by the worthy old chief, who is so justly celebrated by that gallant French navigator; and the next morning his brother Tarooree embarked with our officer, in order to visit the ships which they saw in the offing. When he came on board we found he had a kind of impediment in his organs of speech, by which means he substituted a K wherever the language required a T; a fault which we afterwards observed in several other individuals. He favoured us with his company at dinner, as well as another native named O-Wahow, who was the first that had come aboard from this part of the island, and to whom my father had immediately presented a few beads and a small nail, merely to try his disposition. In return he produced a fish-hook neatly made of mother of pearl, which he gave to his new friend. A larger nail was the reward of this good-natured action; and on the receipt of this he sent his boy to the shore in his canoe. Towards four o'clock the canoe returned, and brought on board this man's brother, and a present of a number of coco-nuts, several bunches of bananas, and a clothing-mat. There was something so generous in O-Wahow's way of acting, above all the little ideas of bartering, that we could not fail to express the highest regard for him. A much more considerable present was returned to him, rather to confirm him in his noble sentiments, than as a compensation for his gift. With that he retired in the evening, promising to return to us again, and expressing such extravagant emotions of joy as are commonly the effects of unexpected good fortune.

In the mean while we gradually approached the shore, a faint breeze helping us on, and the evening-sun illuminating the landscape with the richest golden tints. We now discerned that long projecting point, which from the observation made upon it, had been named Point Venus, and easily agreed, that this was by far the most beautiful part of the island. The district of Matavaï, which now opened to our view, exhibited a plain of such an extent as we had not expected, and the valley which we traced running up between the mountains, was itself a very spacious grove, compared to the little narrow glens in Tiarraboo. We hauled round the point about three o'clock, and saw it crouded with a prodigious number of people, who gazed at us with fixed attention; but as soon as we came to an anchor, in the fine bay which it shelters, the greater part of them ran very precipitately round the whole beach, and across One-tree-hill to O-Parre, the next district to the westward. Among the whole croud, we saw only a single man whose shoulders were covered with a garment, and he, according to our friend O-Wahow's testimony, was O-Too, the king of O-Taheitee-Nue , (the Greater Taheitee). His person was tall, and very advantageously proportioned, but he ran very nimbly along with his subjects, which the natives on board attributed to his apprehensions on our account.

Though it was near sun-set when we came to an anchor, yet our decks were in a short time crouded with natives of all ranks, who recognized their old friends in many of our officers and sailors, with a degree of reciprocal joy, which cannot easily be described. Among them was the old, venerable O-Whaw, whose peaceable character and good offices to our people, are taken notice of in the account of Lieutenant Cook's first voyage, particularly upon the occasion when one of the natives was murdered [79] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 83, 90, 91. . He immediately recollected Mr. Pickersgill, and calling him by his Taheitean name, Petrodero enumerated on his fingers, that this was the third visit he made to the island, that gentleman having been here both in the Dolphin and the Endeavour. A chief, named Maratata [80] Ibid. p. 157. Maraïtata. , paid captain Cook a visit with his lady, (Tedua)-Erararee, who was a very well-looking young woman, and both received a number of presents, though it appeared that these were the sole motives for coming on board. A very tall, fat man, the father-in-law of Maratata, accompanied them, and was equally fortunate in collecting presents amongst us, which he took no other method to obtain, than down-right begging. They all exchanged names with us in sign of friendship, every one choosing a particular friend, to whom he was attached; customs which we had never observed in our former anchoring place, where the natives were infinitely more reserved, and in some degree diffident of our intentions. Towards seven o'clock they left the ship, not without promising to return the next morning, which, from the good reception they had met with, did not seem to admit of a doubt.

All night the moon shone clear in a cloudless sky, and silvered over the polished surface of the sea, while the landscape lay before us like the gay production of a fertile and elegant fancy. A perfect silence reigned in the air, which was agreeably interrupted by the voices of several natives that had remained on board, and enjoyed the beauty of the night with their friends, whom they had known in a former voyage. They were seated at the sides of the vessel, and discoursed on several topics, making their words more intelligible by different signs. We listened to them, and found that they chiefly put questions concerning what had happened to our people since their last separation, and gave accounts in their turn of the tragical fate of Tootahah, and his friends. Gibson, the marine, who was so much delighted with this island, in captain Cook's former voyage, that he made an attempt to stay behind [81] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 176, 179. , was now chiefly engaged in this conversation, as he understood more of the language than the rest of the crew, and was on that account greatly valued by the natives. The confidence which these people placed in us, and their familiar, unreserved behaviour, gave us infinite satisfaction, as it contrasted so well with the conduct of the people of Aitepèha. We now saw the character of the natives in a more favourable light than ever, and were convinced that the remembrance of injuries, and the spirit of revenge, did not enter into the composition of the good and simple Taheitians. It must surely be a comfortable reflection to every sensible mind, that philanthropy seems to be natural to mankind, and that the savage ideas of distrust, malevolence, and revenge, are only the consequences of a gradual depravation of manners. There are few instances where people, who are not absolutely sunk to a state of barbarism, have acted contrary to this general peaceable principle. The discoveries of Columbus, Cortez, and Pizarro in America, and those of Mendanna, Quiros, Schouten, Tasman [82] We except the savages of New Zeeland. , and Wallis in the South Sea, agree in this particular. It is highly probable, that the attack which the Taheitians made upon the Dolphin, took its origin from some outrage unknowingly committed by the Europeans; and supposing it did not, if self-preservation be one of the first laws of nature, surely from all appearances these people had a right to look on our men as a set of invaders, and what is more than all, to be apprehensive that even their liberty was at stake. When, after a fatal display of superior European force, they were convinced that nothing farther than a short stay for refreshment was intended, that the strangers who came among them were not entirely destitude of humane and equitable sentiments; in short, when they found that Britons were not more savage than themselves, they were ready to open their arms to them, they forgot that they had had a difference, and bid them partake of each kindly production of their isle. They all exerted themselves in acts of hospitality and testimonies of friendship from the lowest subject to the queen, that every one of their guests might have reason to say, he regretted his departure from this friendly shore:

Invitus, regina, tuo de litore cessi! Virgil.

;

CHAP. IX.

Account of our Transactions at Matavaï Bay.

[1773. August.][Thursday 26.] CAPTAIN Cook in his voyage in the Endeavour, had observed that, in order to obtain a sufficient supply of refreshments at Matavaï Bay, it was absolutely necessary to conciliate the favour of the sovereign, unless peaceable measures were entirely to be rejected, and the tragedies of former times be repeated. With this view he resolved to begin his operations here in the morning, by going to the province of O-Parre, where king O-Too resided. He did not, however, leave the ship till Maratata and his wife had been on board agreeable to their promise. In return for the presents which they had received the evening before, they gave some pieces of their best cloth to the captain, and were very proud to be admitted into the great cabin, while the rest of their countrymen were obliged to stay without. As soon as Captain Furneaux was come on board from the Adventure, Captain Cook embarked in the pinnace with him, accompanied by Doctor Sparrman, my father, and myself. Maratata, without any ceremony, likewise came in with his wife, and immediately occupied the best place in the stern. A croud of attendants followed them, till the boat was so full, that our people found it impossible to ply their oars. The greater part of these unbidden guests were therefore obliged to leave it, to their visible disappointment; for they seemed to have set a great value upon the liberty of sitting in our boat, which was fresh painted, and had a pleasant green awning to skreen us from the sun. We rowed across the bay, and approached the shore near a point where a thick shrubbery surrounded a maraï of stone, such as we had already observed in Aitepèha. This cemetery and place of worship was known to Captain Cook by the name of Tootahah's marai, but when he called it by this name, Maratata interrupted him, intimating that it was no longer Tootahah's after his death, but was known at present as O-Too's maraï. A fine moral for princes, daily reminding them of mortality whilst they live, and teaching them that after death they cannot even call the ground their own which their dead corse occupies! - The chief and his wife on passing by it, took their upper garment from their shoulders, which is a mark of respect indiscriminately paid at the maraï by all ranks of people, and seems to annex a particular idea of sanctity to these places. Perhaps they are supposed to be favoured with the more immediate presence of the Deity, agreeably to the opinion that has been entertained of public places of worship at all times and among all nations.

After passing the maraï, we rowed for some time close along one of the finest districts of O-Taheitee, where the plains seemed to be very spacious, and the mountains ran with a very easy slope into a long point. A prodigious number of inhabitants lined the shores, which were covered with grasses, and shaded with numerous palms close to the water's edge. Here we landed, amidst the joyful acclamations of the multitude, and were conducted to a group of houses, hid under spreading fruit-trees. Before one of the largest we saw an area twenty or thirty yards square, surrounded by an enclosure of reeds, not above eighteen inches high, in the middle of which the king was seated cross-legged on the ground, in a great circle of persons of both sexes, who seemed to be of the highest rank in the island from their stature, colour and deportment. Some of our sailors laid down a number of presents before him, which served as Captain Cook's credentials. We all followed, and were intreated to sit down around the king. The respect which was paid to the sovereign by all ranks of people, and which consisted in uncovering the shoulders in his presence, did not prevent hem from thronging around us on all sides with the greatest eagerness of curiosity. The croud was beyond comparison more numerous than at our interview with Aheatua, and the king's attendants in different corners of the area were obliged to exert themselves in order to keep them within bounds. One in particular displayed his activity in a furious manner to clear the way for us, by beating them unmercifully, breaking several sticks on their heads, and no doubt breaking their heads too.

E come quel ch'ancor de la pazzia

Non era ben guarito interamente;

Per allargare innanzi al Re la via,

Menava quella mazza fra la gente,

Ch'un imbriaco svizzero paria

Di quei, che con villan modo insolente,

Sogliono innanzi 'l Papa il dì di festa,

Rompere a chi le braccia, a chi la testa, Tassoni.

Notwithstanding this severe treatment, they returned as obstinately to the charge as an English mob, but bore the insolence of the king's officers with more patience. The king of O-Taheitee had never seen our people during captain Cook's first voyage, probably in consequence of the political views of his uncle Tootahah, who at that time had the whole management of affairs in his hands, and who might be apprehensive of losing his consequence among the Europeans, if they should once know that he was not the greatest man on the island. Whether Tootahah's power was to be considered as an usurpation, or not, is not easily to be determined; so much however may be alledged against him, that the king himself seemed to us to be a man of twenty-four or twenty-five years of age. O-Too was the tallest man whom we saw on the whole island which he governs, measuring six feet and three inches in height. His whole body was proportionately strong and well-made, without any tendency to corpulence. His head, notwithstanding a certain gloominess which seemed to express a fearful disposition, had a majestic and intelligent air, and there was great expression in his full black eyes. He wore strong whiskers, which with his beard, and a prodigious growth of curled hair, were all of a jetty black. His portrait is engraved from Mr. Hodges's drawing, for captain Cook's account of this voyage. The same habit of body, and the same singular quantity of hair, which stood puffed up all about the head intricately entwined and curled, characterised his brothers, one a youth of about sixteen, another ten years of age, and likewise his sisters, of which the eldest now present seemed about twenty-six. The women of O-Taheitee in general, cut their hair rather short; it was therefore a very uncommon appearance on the heads of these ladies, and may, for ought we know, be a privilege reserved only to those of the royal family. Their rank however did not exclude them from the general etiquette of uncovering the shoulders in the king's presence, a ceremony which afforded the whole sex numberless opportunities of displaying an elegant figure to the greatest advantage. The simple drapery of a long white piece of cloth, like a muslin, was to be turned an hundred different ways, according to the convenience, or the talents and fine taste of the wearer; no general fashions force them to disfigure, instead of adorning themselves, but an innate gracefulness was the companion of simplicity. The only person exempted from the general custom of uncovering the shoulder was the king's hòa [83] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 243. eowa no l'earee, by which is meant e-hoa no te aree, (a friend to the king). , one of his servants, whom we could not better compare than to the lord in waiting, and of whom we understood there were twelve who officiated by turns. Some of them were the same gentlemen who had displayed their dexterity before, by dealing out hearty blows to the crowd. The number of uncles, aunts, cousins, and other relations of his majesty, amongst whom we were seated, vied with each other in bestowing kind looks upon us, making professions of friendship, and - begging for beads and nails. The methods to obtain these trifles from us were very different, and consequently not always equally successful. When we distributed a few beads to one set of people, some young fellows would impudently thrust their hands in between them, and demand their share, as though it had been their due; these attempts we always made it our business to discourage by a flat refusal. It was already become difficult to deny a venerable old man, who with a hand not yet palsied by age, vigorously pressed ours, and with a perfect reliance upon our good nature, whispered the petition in our ears. The elderly ladies in general made sure of a prize, by a little artful flattery. They commonly enquired for our names, and then adopted us as their sons, at the same time introducing to us the several relations, whom we acquired by this means. After a series of little caresses, the old lady began, Aima poe-èetee no te tayo mettua? " Have you not a little bead for your kind mother?" Such a trial of our filial attachment always had its desired effect, as we could not fail to draw the most favourable conclusions from thence in regard to the general kind disposition of the whole people: for to expect a good quality in others, of which we ourselves are not possessed, is a refinement in manners peculiar to polished nations. Our other female relations in the bloom of youth, with some share of beauty, and constant endeavours to please, laid a claim to our affections by giving themselves the tender name of sisters; and all the world will agree that this attack was perfectly irresistible.

In a little time we met with an ample return for our presents, especially from the ladies, who immediately sent their attendants (Towtows) for large pieces of their best cloth, dyed of a scarlet, rose, or straw colour, and perfumed with their choicest fragrant oil. These they put over our cloathes, and loaded us so well that we found it difficult to move in them. A variety of questions concerning Tabane (Mr. Banks), Tolano (Dr. Solander), and many of their former acquaintances, immediately followed the more material business of receiving presents; but Tupaya (Tupia) or as he was more commonly called Parua, notwithstanding the extensive knowledge of which he seems to have been possessed, and which we expected should have endeared him to his countrymen; was only mentioned by one or two persons, who received the news of his death with perfect indifference. Whilst we were engaged in this conversation, our Highlander performed on the bag-pipe to the infinite satisfaction of all the Taheitians, who listened to him with a mixture of admiration and delight. King O-Too in particular was so well pleased with his musical abilities, which I have already observed were mean enough, that he ordered him a large piece of the coarser cloth as a reward for his trouble.

As this visit was merely a visit of ceremony, we soon got up to return to our boat, but were detained a little longer by the arrival of E-Happaï [84] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 154. Whappai. the father of the sovereign. He was a tall, thin man, with a grey beard and hair, seemed to be of a great age, but was not yet entirely worn out. He received the presents which our captains made him, in a cold careless manner, which is natural to old people whose senses are considerably impaired. The accounts of former voyagers had already apprised us of that strange constitution, by virtue of which the son assumes the sovereignty in his father's life time [85] Ibid, p. 154, 243. , but we could not without surprize, behold the aged Happaï, naked to the waist in his son's presence, conform to the general custom. Thus the ideas universally annexed to consanguinity, are suppressed in order to give greater weight to the regal dignity, and I cannot help thinking that such a sacrifice to political authority, argues a greater degree of civilization than has been allowed to the Taheitians by our former navigators. However, though Happaï was not invested with the supreme command, his birth and rank entitled him to deference from the common people, and to a proper support from the king. The province or district of O-Parre, was therefore under his immediate orders, and supplied not only his wants, but those also of his attendants. After a very short stay with this old chief, we parted from him, and from the king his son, and returned on board in the pinnace, which Maratata had occupied during the whole time of our interview, priding himself very much on his supposed interest with us. During our absence several tents had been erected on Point Venus, for the convenience of our wood-cutters and waterers, and the sick of the Adventure. The astronomers of both vessels had likewise fixed their observatory nearly on the same spot, where Mr. Green and captain Cook had observed the transit of Venus. We found a great number of inhabitants about the vessels, and among the rest several of the better sort of people, who having access to all parts of the ship, followed every body with their petitions for beads and other presents. The captains to evade their endless importunities went on shore to the tents, and thither we accompanied them in order to see what natural productions the country afforded. Another excursion of the same kind was made in the afternoon, but as both were confined to an inconsiderable distance, our discoveries only consisted of a few plants and birds which we had not seen at Aitepèha.

[Friday 27.]The next morning very early, a number of canoes came to the ship from Parre, and in one of the smallest, the king in person brought many presents to captain Cook. A live hog, a very large fish called a cavalha ( scomber hippos), and an albecore ready dressed, about four feet long, with many baskets of palm-leaves containing bread-fruit and bananas, were handed up to the deck successively. Captain Cook stood on the ship's side, entreating his majesty to come on board, but he did not stir from his seat, till an immense quantity of the best cloth of the country had been wrapped round the captain, encreasing his bulk to a prodigious dimension. After this ceremony, Too, with a countenance which betrayed a good deal of diffidence, ventured to come upon the quarter-deck, and embraced the captain, who in conjunction with his officers and ourselves, devised all possible means to quiet these apprehensions. Our quarter-deck was now so crouded with the king's relations, that he was requested to come into the cabin; but the descent between decks was so hazardous an enterprize according to his ideas, that he could by no means be prevailed on to attempt it, till he had sent down his brother, a fine active youth about sixteen years of age, who placed a perfect confidence in us. Having reconnoitred the cabin, and finding it to his liking, he made his report accordingly to the king, who immediately ventured down. He received a great number of valuable presents from captain Cook, who began to find himself very warm under his load of cloth. The principal people accompanied his majesty into the cabin, but they crouded in so fast, that it was almost impossible to stir for them. Every one of these, as I have already mentioned, chose his particular friend amongst us, and reciprocal gifts sealed every new connection. Captain Furneaux being arrived on board, we took an opportunity of sitting down to our breakfast, when they seemed perfectly easy, having prevailed on them to seat themselves on chairs, which struck them with their novelty and convenience. The king paid great attention to our breakfast, which was a mixture of English and Taheitian provisions, and was much surprised to see us drink hot-water [86] Tea. , and eat bread-fruit with oil [87] Butter. . Though he could not be persuaded to taste our food, several of his attendants were not so cautious, but eat and drank very heartily of whatever we set before them. After breakfast O-Too saw my father's spaniel, a fine dog, but in very bad order at that time, and very dirty from the pitch, tar, and other uncleanliness on board the ship. Notwithstanding these defects, the king expressed a great desire of becoming his master, and made a request to that purpose, which was readily complied with. He immediately commanded one of the lords in waiting, or hòas, to take the dog into his custody; and in conformity to his orders, this man ever after carried the dog behind his majesty. The king soon after told captain Cook that he wished to return on shore, and went on deck with all his attendants, carrying with him the presents which he had received. Captain Furneaux took that opportunity of presenting to him a fine pair of goats, male and female, which he had brought from on board his own vessel the same morning. We succeeded very well in our attempt to make him comprehend the value of these animals, and the manner of treating them; for he promised that he would never kill nor separate them, and take great care of their offspring. The pinnace was now ready, and the king embarked in it, with the captains and several other gentlemen, and proceeded to the royal residence at O-Parre. During this passage he appeared highly contented, asked a number of questions, and seemed to have entirely conquered his former fears. His enquiries chiefly concerned the goats, which had attracted all his attention, and we could never tell him too often what they should feed upon, and how they were to be managed. As soon as we came on shore, we pointed out to him a fine spot of ground, covered with a good bed of grasses, in the shade of bread-fruit trees, and desired that the goats might always be kept in such places. At our landing the shore was crouded with people, who expressed their joy on seeing their sovereign by loud acclamations. Among them we discerned the late Tootahah's mother, a venerable grey-headed matron, who, on seeing captain Cook, ran to embrace him, as the friend of her deceased son, and wept aloud at the remembrance of her loss. We paid the tribute of admiration due to such sensibility, which endears our fellow-creatures to us wherever it is met with, and affords an undeniable proof of the original excellence of the human heart.

From hence we hastened away to our tents at Point Venus, where the natives carried on a regular trade with vegetables of all sorts, which sold at very low rates, a single bead being given for a basket of bread-fruit or a bunch of coco-nuts. My father there met his friend O-Wàhow, who presented him with a great quantity of fruit, some fish, some good cloth, and some mother of pearl hooks. This present deserved a compensation, but the generous Taheitian absolutely refused to take any thing, saying that he gave these things as a friend, and without any lucrative view. It seemed as if every thing had conspired this day to give us a favourable idea of the amiable nation among whom we resided.

We returned on board to dinner, and passed the afternoon there in the occupations of describing and drawing objects of natural history. The decks in the mean while were constantly crouded with natives of both sexes, prying into every corner, and stealing whenever they found an opportunity. In the evening we beheld a scene new and striking to ourselves, though familiar to those who had been at Taheitee before. A great number of women of the lowest class, having been previously engaged by our sailors, remained on board at sun-set, after the departure of all their country people to the shore. We had observed instances of the venality of the Taheitian females at Aitepèha; but whatever might have been their condescension towards our people in day-time, they had never ventured to pass a night on board. The women of Matavai had studied the dispositions of British seamen much better, and knew that they ran no risk by entrusting themselves to their care; but on the contrary might make sure of every bead, nail, hatchet, or shirt which their lovers could muster. This evening was therefore as completely dedicated to mirth and pleasure, as if we had lain at Spithead instead of O-Taheitee. Before it was perfectly dark the women assembled on the forecastle, and one of them blowing a flute with the nostrils, all the rest danced a variety of dances usual in their country, amongst which there were some that did not exactly correspond with our ideas of decency. However, if we consider that the simplicity of their education and of their dress, makes many actions perfectly innocent here, which, according to our customs, would be blameable, we cannot impute that degree of unbounded licentiousness to them, with which the prostitutes of civilized Europe are unhappily reproached. As soon as it was dark they retired below decks, and if their lovers were of such a quality as to afford them fresh pork, they supped without reserve, though they had before refused to eat in the presence of their own countrymen, agreeably to that incomprehensible custom which separates the sexes at their meals. The quantities of pork which they could consume were astonishing, and their greediness plainly indicated that they were rarely if ever indulged with that delicious food in their own families. The instances of sensibility in Tootahah's mother and in O-Wahow, and the favourable ideas which we had from thence formed of the Taheitians were so recent in our memories, that we were much hurt at the sight of these creatures, who had entirely forgot the duties of life, and abandoned themselves to the brutal sway of the passions. That there should exist so great a degree of immorality in a nation, otherwise so happy in its simplicity, and in the fewness of its wants, is a reflection very disgraceful to human nature in general, which, viewed to its greatest advantage here, is nevertheless imperfect. Is it not to be lamented, that the best gifts of a benevolent Creator seem to be the most liable to frequent abuse, and that nothing is so easy to mankind as error?

[Saturday 28.]Early the next morning O-Too, with his sister Tedua-Towraï, and several relations, came along-side, and sent up a hog and a large albecore into our vessel, but would not come on board. He had a similar present for captain Furneaux, but refused to go to the Adventure till my father went with him. The ceremony of swaddling the captain in O-Taheitee cloth was performed again before his majesty ventured on board; but that being over, he seemed to think himself safe amongst us, and came on the deck, where captain Furneaux gave him a variety of presents. His sister Tedua-Towraï was on board the Resolution in the mean while, and all the women paid her the same respect by uncovering the shoulders, which the whole nation owes to the king. The active youth T'- Aree Watow , who was with the king his brother, had the same honours paid to him; and it appeared to us that the title Aree, though common to all the chiefs of districts, and the nobility in general, was yet applied by way of excellence to the persons of the royal family. O-Too soon left the Adventure, rejoined his sister on board the Resolution, and was accompanied by both the captains to Parre.

[Sunday 29.]On the 29th at day-break we landed at our tents, and proceeded into the country with an intention to examine its productions. A copious dew, which had fallen during night, had refreshed the whole vegetable creation, and contributed, together with the early hour of the morning, to make our walk extremely pleasant. We found but few natives at the tents, some of whom attended us to the ford in the river, and for a bead a-piece carried us across, where it was twenty yards wide, without our wetting a foot. As we entered the grove, we perceived the inhabitants in their houses just getting up, and saw many of them performing their customary ablution in the adjacent river of Matavaï. There can be no doubt, that frequent bathing in this warm climate is extremely salutary, and particularly in the morning, when the water, being fresh and cool, cannot but be highly instrumental in bracing the fibres, which might otherwise become too much relaxed. The cleanliness which results from this custom, is certainly one of the best preservatives against putrid disorders, and has the farther advantage of making these people enjoy the comforts of society in a higher degree than those savages who seem to shun the water, and become indifferent to each other, and loathsome to strangers by their squalid appearance, and fetid exhalations. We walked on till we came to a little hut, the lowly dwelling of a poor widow with a numerous family. Her eldest son, Noona, a lively boy about twelve years old, had always been particularly attached to the Europeans, and being extremely quick of apprehension, understood us much better at half a word, than many of his countrymen with all the gestures we could invent, and after we had ransacked our vocabularies. This boy, who, with a dark almost chesnut-brown colour, combined a set of pleasing, good-natured features, had agreed the evening before, to become our guide on this day's excursion. At our approach we found his mother, who had provided a number of coco-nuts and some other provisions for us, sitting on the stones before her cottage, and her children assembled about her, the youngest of which was not above four years old. She seemed to be active enough, but however of such an age, that we had some difficulty to believe her the mother of such young children, in a country where we knew that the commerce of the sexes begins at an early age. The arrival of a well-looking woman, about three or four and twenty years old, who was Noona's eldest sister, soon accounted for the wrinkles on her mother's brow. Instead of verifying the general observation, that women in hot countries lose their sightliness much sooner than with us, we had now reason to be surprised, that they should be so prolific here, as to bear children during a period of almost twenty years. It was natural that our thoughts should return to the happy simplicity in which the life of the Taheitians smoothly rolls along, and which, undisturbed by cares and wants, is the cause of the great population of their island.

A stout fellow, whom we hired for a few beads, carried the provisions which the hospitable old woman had offered us, suspending them in equal portions on the two extremities of a strong pole, about four feet long, which he placed on his shoulder. Young Noona, and his little brother Toparree, about four years old, cheerfully accompanied us, after we had enriched the whole family with beads, nails, looking-glasses, and knives.

The first part of our march was a little difficult, on account of a hill on which we mounted, in hopes of meeting with something to reward our trouble. But, contrary to our expectations, we found it entirely destitute of plants, two dwarfish shrubs, and a species of dry fern excepted. Here, however, we were much surprised to see a large flock of wild ducks rising before us, from a spot which was perfectly dry and barren, without our being able to imagine what had brought them thither from the reeds and marshy banks of the river, where they commonly resided. We soon crossed another hill, where all the ferns and bushes having lately been burnt, blackened our clothes as we passed through them. From thence we descended into a fertile valley, where a fine rivulet, which we were obliged to cross several times, ran towards the sea. The natives had placed several stone weirs across this rivulet, in order to raise the water, which might by that means be introduced into their plantations of the tarro, or eddy-root ( arum esculentum), that requires a very marshy, and sometimes an inundated soil. We found two species of it, one of which has large glossy leaves, and roots about four feet long, but is very coarse; the other with velvet leaves and small, but more palatable roots. Both are excessively pungent and caustic, till boiled in several waters; however, hogs eat them raw without any reluctance. The valley became narrower as we advanced up along the rivulet, and the hills which included it were much steeper, and covered with forests. Every part of the level ground was, however, planted with coco-nut, apple, and bread-fruit trees, with bananas, cloth-trees, and various roots, and a number of houses were conveniently situated at short distances from each other. In different parts we met with immense beds of loose pebble-stones in the rivulet and on its banks, which seemed to have been washed out of the mountains, and worn into round or oblong shapes, by the continual motion and agitation of the water. On the sides of the hills we gathered several new plants, sometimes at the risk of breaking our necks, on account of the pieces of rock which rolled away under our feet. A great number of inhabitants assembled about us, and among them several who brought us abundance of coco-nuts, bread-fruit, and apples for sale. We bought as much as we thought necessary for our provision, and hired some of the natives to carry it. After proceeding up about five miles from the sea-side we sat down in the shade of a number of trees, on a pleasant green turf, and made our meal, which consisted of the fruit we had purchased, and of some pork and fish which we had taken from on board. The natives formed a circle round us; but those who had been our guides and assistants were permitted to sit by us, and partook of our cheer with a very good appetite. They were most surprised at the salt, which we had taken care to provide, and which they saw us eat with all sorts of victuals, bread-fruit not excepted. Some of them were desirous of tasting it, and among these there were a few who relished it very well, because they are used to employ sea-water as a sauce both to fish and to pork [88] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 200, 201. .

It was about four o'clock in the afternoon, when we thought of returning to the sea-side with our acquisitions. About this time a number of inhabitants came across the hills with loads of horse-plantanes, a coarse sort, which grows almost without cultivation, and which they brought for sale to our ships. We followed them along the side of the rivulet to a place where some children offered us a few little prawns picked out between the stones in the bed of the river. We had no sooner taken them as a curiosity, and rewarded the children with beads, than upwards of fifty persons of different ages and sexes set about the same employment, and brought us so many of these little creatures, that we were soon obliged to refuse them. In the space of two hours we reached our tents on Point Venus, where we found O-Wahow, the generous native who had brought my father another present of provisions. In the course of this walk, we had observed more idle persons than at Aitepèha; the houses and plantations appeared more ruinous and neglected, and from several people instead of invitations, or marks of hospitality, we only received importunate petitions for beads and nails. Still upon the whole we had great reason to be contented with our reception among them, and the liberty of roaming at pleasure through all parts of their delightful country. We had now and then experienced their disposition to theft, but had never lost any thing of value; for our handkerchiefs, which were the easiest to come at, were made of their own thinner cloth, so that they found themselves disappointed as often they had dextrously picked our pockets, and with great good humour returned them to us. In my opinion this vice is not of so heinous a nature among the Taheitians, as amongst ourselves. People whose wants are so easily satisfied, and in whose manner of living there is so much equality, can have very few motives to steal from each other, and their open houses without doors and bars, are so many proofs of mutual safety. The blame then lies in a great measure upon us, for bringing temptations in their way too powerful to be withstood. They seem indeed not to think their transgressions of great signification, perhaps from a reflection that they do not materially injure us by any little larceny.

During our absence the captains had paid a visit to the king at Parre, where they were highly entertained by the sight of a dramatic dance, which her royal highness Towraï performed, in a dress exactly described in captain Cook's former voyage, and with the same gestures which are there mentioned [89] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 264, 265. See also the plate No. 7. though that conveys no idea of Taheitians. . Two men danced at different intervals, when the princess rested, and, with many strange distortions, spoke or sung some words, probably relative to the subject of their dance, which was unintelligible to our people. The whole entertainment lasted about an hour and a half, during which Tedua Towraï displayed a wonderful activity, which surpassed every thing that had been seen at the isle of Ulietea in the former voyage.

[Monday 30.]Early the next morning captain Cook sent lieutenant Pickersgill to the south-west part of the island, in order to purchase some fresh provision, and particularly some hogs, of which we had hitherto received only two from the king. We continued on board the whole day, describing the plants which we had found on our last excursion. In the evening, about ten o'clock, we heard a great noise on shore abreast of our vessels, apparently occasioned by some of our men. The captains immediately sent their boats ashore, with proper officers, who brought on board several marines and a sailor. They had obtained leave to take a walk from the commanding officer at the tents, but had exceeded their time, and beaten one of the natives. They were immediately secured in irons, as it was of the utmost consequence towards continuing upon an amicable footing with this nation, to punish them in an exemplary manner. O-Too had promised to come on board with his father the next morning, but this noise, of which he had received advice within half an hour after it had happened, made him so justly diffident of our intentions, that he sent his messenger or ambassador ( Whanno no t'aree [90] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 243. ) , who was one of the principal lords of his court, named E-Tee, to make an apology for his non-appearance. Before he came on board, however, Dr. Sparrman went on shore with me near the place where the disturbance had happened, with a view to make another excursion into the interior parts of the country. O-Whaw [91] See before, p. 412; and Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 83, 90, 91. , the old man, who had on former occasions shewed his pacific disposition, met us on the beach, and spoke of the offence of the last night not without expressing some displeasure; but when we assured him that the offenders were in irons, and would be severely punished, he seemed perfectly satisfied. As we had nobody from the vessel to assist us, we desired O-Whaw to point out a native whom we might entrust with the botanizing apparatus. Several people having offered their services, he chose a strong well-made man, who was immediately furnished with an empty bag, for the reception of plants, and with some baskets full of Taheitee apples, which we had purchased on the spot. We crossed One-tree-hill, and descended into one of the first vallies of O-Parre, where we were gratified with the sight of one of the most beautiful trees in the world, which we called the Barringtonia. It had a great abundance of flowers, larger than lilies and perfectly white, excepting the tips of their numerous chives, which were of a bright crimson. Such a quantity of these flowers were already dropped off, that the ground underneath the tree was intirely strewed with them. The natives called the tree huddoo, and assured us that the fruit, which is a large nut, when bruised, mixed up with some shell-fish, and strewed into the sea, intoxicates or poisons the fish for some time, so that they come to the surface of the water and suffer themselves to be taken with the hands. It is singular that various maritime plants in tropical climates have such a quality; the cocculi indici, in particular, are well known and used for that purpose in the East-Indies. We were unwilling to defer the examination of so remarkable a plant till after our return on board, and therefore retired to a neat house, built up of reeds, round which several odoriferous shrubs and some very fine coco-trees were planted. The owner, with that hospitality which I have already often celebrated, sent a boy up one of the tallest palms to procure us some of the nuts, which he performed with surprizing agility. He tied a piece of the tough rind of a banana stalk to both his feet, in such a manner that they could just encompass the tree on both sides, the piece of rind serving as a sort of step or rest, whilst he lifted himself higher with his hands. The natural growth of the coco-palm, which annually forms a kind of elevated ring on the stem, certainly facilitated the boy's ascent, but the quickness and ease with which he walked up and down were really admirable. We should have ill deserved this mark of kindness and attention if we had not made our host a little present at parting, and rewarded the boy for the pleasure which we had felt in observing his dexterity.

From hence we proceeded up the valley, which having no rivulet in its middle, began to rise in proportion as we advanced. We resolved therefore to go upon the steep hill on our left, and with much difficulty accomplished our plan. Our Taheitian friend laughed at us, when he saw us faint with fatigue, and sitting down every moment to recover our breath. We heard him blow or breathe slowly but very hard, with open mouth, as he walked behind us; we therefore tried the same experiment, which nature had probably taught him, and found it answered much better than our short panting, which always deprived us of breath. At last we reached the ridge of the hill, where a fine breeze greatly refreshed us, after our fatiguing ascent. When we had walked upwards along that ridge for some time, exposed to the burning rage of the sun, reverberated from all parts of the barren soil, we sat down under the scanty shade of a solitary pandang, or palm-nut tree [92] Pandanus. Rumph. Herbar. Amboin. - Athrodactylis. Forst. Nov. Gen. Plantar. - Keura. Forskol. , which was at this time acceptable even to our friendly native. The prospect from hence was delightful; the reef which surrounded O-Taheiotee, the bay with the ships, and numerous canoes, and the whole plain of Matavaï with its beautiful objects, lay as it were under our feet, while the meridian sun threw a steady and calm light on the whole landscape. At the distance of about six leagues, the low island called Tedhuroa, appeared before us, forming a little circular ledge of rocks, covered with a few palms; and far beyond it the immense ocean bounded the view. The Taheitian who was with us, pointed out the direction of all the neighbouring islands which were not in sight at present, and informed us of their produce, whether they were high or low, inhabited or only occasionally visited. Tedhuroa, which we saw was of the last sort, and two canoes with their sails set, were at that time returning from thence, where our guide informed us they often went to catch fish in the lagoon. Having rested a little while, we advanced up towards the interior mountains, which now appeared distinctly before us. The rich groves which crowned their summits, and filled the vallies between them, invited us to advance, and promised to reward our preseverance with a load of new productions. But we soon perceived a number of barren hills and vallies which lay between us and those desireable forests, and found it was in vain to attempt to reach them this day. We consulted amongst ourselves, whether we should venture to pass a night on these hills, but this was unadviseable, on account of the uncertainty of the time when our ships were to sail, and likewise impracticable for want of provisions. - Our Taheitian told us, we should meet with no inhabitants, dwelling, or provisions on the mountains, and pointed out a narrow path which led down the steep side of the hill into the valley of Matavaï. We began to descent therefore, but found it more dangerous than when we came up: we stumbled every moment, and in many places were obliged to slide down on our backs. Our shoes were rather a disadvantage to us, being made extremely slippery by the dry grasses over which we had walked, while the native with his bare feet was surprisingly surefooted. In a short time we gave him our fowling-pieces, to enable us to make use of our hands, and at last we resumed them again, and letting him go before, leaned on his arm in the most difficult places. When we were about half-way down, he hallooed very loud to some people whom he saw in the valley; but we did not believe at that time that they had heard him, especially because he received no answer. However, presently after we observed several people coming up towards us, who ascended very fast, so as to meet us in about half an hour. They brought us three fresh coco-nuts, which, whether they were really excellent in their kind, or whether our great fatigue recommended them to our taste, we looked upon as the best we had ever emptied. The natives bid us rest a while, and told us that a little farther down they had left a number of coco-nuts, which they would not bring up lest we should drink too hastily at first. Their precaution was very laudable, but our thirst made us very impatient till they would permit us to move forward. At last we set out, and coming on a more level ground, entered a delicious little shrubbery, where we sat down in the fresh grass, and indulged with the cool nectar which our friends had provided. This draught enabled us to come down into the valley, where we were presently surrounded by a croud of the natives, and prepared to return with them over the plain to the sea-side; when a well-looking man, accompanied by his daughter, a young girl about sixteen, invited us to his house, which lay farther up, where he wished to entertain us with a dinner. Though we were much exhausted with fatigue, we agreed not to disappoint him, and returned about two miles along the delightful banks of the river Matavai, through groves of coco, bread-fruit, apple, and cloth-trees, and numerous plantations of bananas and eddoes. The river formed various windings in the valley from side to side, so that we were obliged to cross it several times, and our new host with one of his servants always insisted upon carrying us over on their backs. At last we arrived at his house, which was situated on a little eminence, where the river gently murmured over a bed of pebbles. An elegant mat was spread for us on the dry grass in a corner of the house, which was of the closer sort, being walled in with reeds. We were immediately surrounded by a great number of our friend's relations, who seated themselves near us; and his daughter, who in elegance of form, clearness of complexion, and agreeable features, equalled, if not surpassed the Taheitian beauties we had hitherto seen, together with some of her young companions, were very assiduous in their endeavours to be agreeable. The most efficacious remedy they employed besides their smiles, to recover us from the great weariness which we felt, was to chafe our arms and legs with their hands, squeezing the muscles gently between the fingers and the palm. Whether this operation facilitated the circulation of the blood through the minuter vessels, or restored the over-strained muscles to their natural elasticity, I cannot determine; but its effect was certainly so salutary, that our strength was perfectly restored, and we did not feel the least remaining inconvenience from the fatiguing journey of the day. Captain Wallis mentions a similar instance of the excellence of this remedy, and of the beneficence of the inhabitants of Taheitee [93] See Hawkesworth, vol. I. p. 463. ; and Osbeck, in his voyage to China, describes this operation as a common practice among Chinese barbers, who are said to be very expert at it [94] See Osbeck's and Torcen's Voyages to China, vol. I. p. 231. and II. p. 246. . Mr. Grose too, in his voyage to the East Indies, gives a very circumstantial account of the art of champing, which seems to be a luxurious refinement upon this wholesome restorative. It deserves to be mentioned here, that this ingenious author has given quotations from Martial and Seneca, which make it evident that the Romans were acquainted with this practice [95] See Grose's Voyage, vol. I. p. 113. .

Percurrit agili corpus arte tactatrix,

Manumque doctam spargit omnibus membris.

Martial.

We had no longer reason to complain of the want of appetite which had been the consequence of our fatigue; but as soon as our dinner was placed before us, consisting of vegetable food, suitable to the frugal simplicity of the natives, we partook of it very heartily, and soon found ourselves in as good spirits as we had set out with in the morning. We passed about two hours with this hospitable family, and during that time distributed the greatest part of the beads, nails, and knives which we had brought from the ship to our generous host, to his fair daughter, and her companions, whose care had restored our strength much sooner than we had a right to expect after so laborious an expedition. About three o'clock we set out on our return, and walked past numerous dwellings, whose inhabitants enjoyed the beauty of the afternoon in various parties, under the shade of their fruit-trees. In one of these houses we observed a man at work, in preparing a red dye, for some cloth made of the bark of the paper-mulberry, which we commonly called the cloth-tree. Upon enquiring for the materials which he made use of, we found to our great surprize that the yellow juice of a small species of fig, which they call mattee, and the greenish juice of a sort of fern, or bind-weed, or of several other plants, by being simply mixed together, formed a bright crimson, which the women rubbed with their hands if the whole piece was to be uniformly of the same colour, or in which they dipped a bamboo reed, if it was to be marked or sprinkled in different patterns. This colour fades very soon and becomes of a dirty red, besides being liable to be spoiled by rain and other accidents; the cloth, however, which is dyed or rather stained with it, is highly valued by the Taheitians, and only worn by their principal people. We bought several pieces of cloth of different kinds for beads and small nails, and then walked on till we arrived at the tents, which stood at least five miles from the place where we had dined. Here we discharged our trusty friend whom O-Whaw had recommended, and who had behaved with a degree of attachment and fidelity to us, which from the thievish character of the nation we had no room to expect. This behaviour was the more meritorious as our situation frequently had afforded him excellent opportunities of running off with all our nails and knives, and with one of our fowling-pieces; temptations which required an uncommon degree of honesty to withstand. We next embarked in one of the canoes which plied between the ships and the shore, and for a couple of beads were safely brought on board. Here we found the captain and my father just returned from a long excursion to the westward. E-Tee, the king's ambassador, who arrived on board immediately after our departure, had brought a present of a hog and some fruit, but acquainted the captain that O-Too was matòw, a term which at once expressed that he was afraid and displeased. To convince him that the outrages of last night were not approved of, the offenders were brought to the gangway, and received a dozen of lashes in his presence, to the great terror of all the Taheitians on board. Captain Cook then ordering three wether-sheep from the Cape, which were all we had left, to be put in his boat, embarked with captain Furneaux and my father, in order to regain the confidence of O-Too, without which he knew that no provisions were to be bought in the country. When they arrived at Parre, they were told that he was gone to the westward; accordingly they went after him, about four or five miles farther, and landing in a district called Tittahàh, waited several hours for him there; his fears having been so strong, as actually to make him remove about nine miles farther from us than usual. There was something in this conduct seemingly too much allied to cowardise; but we should likewise consider, that the power of Europeans had formerly been displayed here in the terrific shape of destruction. It was three o'clock in the afternoon before he arrived with his mother; he expressing the most manifest signs of fear and distrust, and she with her eyes swimming in tears. The report of E-Tee, the present of a new kind of animals, and all possible assurances of friendship on the part of our people, succeeded to quiet their apprehensions. At the king's desire, the bagpiper was ordered to play before him, and his performance produced an effect similar to that of David's harp, whose harmonious sounds soothed the atrabilarious temper of Saul. He sent for a hog, which was presented to captain Cook; and soon after for another, which he gave to captain Furneaux. The captains believing this to be the last opportunity of obtaining presents from him, desired that a third might be brought for Matarra (my father's Taheitian name). A little pig was given him, at which our people expressed some dislike; upon this, one of the king's relations, in the ascending line, who are all styled Medooa (Father), stepped forward from the throng, and spoke very loud, with many violent gestures, to O-Too, pointing at our people, at the sheep they had presented, and at the little pig which they had received. As soon as his speech was finished, the pig was taken back again, and after a short interval a large hog brought in its stead. Our people then produced their iron wares and a variety of trinkets, which they distributed very freely; and in return were wrapped up in several ahòws, or pieces of Indian cloth. They then took their leave of the whole court, and returned to their vessels about five o'clock.

[1773. September.][Wednesday 1.]Preparations were made for sailing from this island the next morning, whilst the natives crouded about us with fish, shells, fruit, and cloth, of which we purchased all that was to be had. Lieutenant Pickersgill returned from his excursion to the westward about three in the afternoon. He had advanced beyond the fertile plains of Paparra, where O-Ammo [96] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 153, 154. Oamo. , who had once been the king of all Taheitee, resided with his son the young T'- Aree Derre [97] Ibid. vol. II. p. 154. Terridirri. . He took up his first night's lodging on the borders of a small district, which was now the property of the famous queen O-Poorea ( Oberea ). As soon as she heard of his arrival she hastened to him, and met her old acquaintance with repeated marks of friendship. She had separated from her husband [98] Ibid. vol. II. p. 154. some time after the departure of captain Wallis, and was now entirely deprived of that greatness which had once rendered her conspicuous in story, and august in the eyes of Europeans [99] Ibid. vol. II. p. 106. . The civil wars between the two peninsulas of the island had stripped her, as well as the whole district of Paparra, of the greatest part of her wealth, so that she complained to the lieutenant that she was poor, ( teètee), and had not a hog to give her friends. The next morning therefore they left her, and in their return touched at Paparra, where they saw Ammo, who, after parting with O-Poorea, had taken one of the handsomest young women of the country to his bed, and appeared to be aged and indolent. His fair one gave a hog to our people, and, with some of her female attendants, stepped into the boat at their departure, and went the whole day with them, her own canoe attending to take her back again. On this excursion she expressed a great degree of curiosity, which seemed never to have been gratified before by the sight of Europeans, insomuch that she was doubtful whether they were formed at all points like her own country-men, till her eyes removed every doubt. With her they landed at Attahooroo, where a chief named Potatow [100] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 170. received them very cordially, and entertained them at his own house during the second night. He too had parted with his wife Polatehèra, and taken a younger to his bed, while the lady had provided herself with a lover or a husband, and they all continued to live very peaceably in the same family. The next morning at parting Potatow promised to accompany Mr. Pickersgill to Matavaï, in order to visit captain Cook, provided he might be sure of good treatment. Mr. Pickersgill assured him of the best reception; but the chief, for greater safety, produced a few small yellow feathers, tied together into a little tuft, which he desired Mr. Pickersgill to hold, whilst he repeated his promise, " that Toòte ( captain Cook) would be the friend of Potatow." This done, he carefully wrapped the feathers into a bit of Indian cloth, and put it in his turban. We knew, from former accounts, that red and yellow feathers were employed by the inhabitants of this island to fix their attention while they prayed to the Deity; but this ceremony conveyed an idea of a solemn affirmation or oath, which was quite new to us. Potatow was so well satisfied of the integrity of his friends, after this ceremony, that he and his wives, and several of their attendants, carrying with them two hogs and abundance of cloth, marched towards the boat, amidst an immense croud of people. He was, however, no sooner arrived at the water's side, than the whole multitude eagerly pressed him not to venture amongst our people, and clinging to his feet endeavoured to hold him back; several women, with a flood of tears, repeatedly cried aloud that Toote would kill him as soon as he came on board; and an old man, who, by living at the chief's own house, seemed to be a faithful servant to the family, drew him back by the skirts of his garment. Potatow was moved; for a moment he expressed some marks of diffidence; but instantly arming himself with all the resolution he was master of, he thrust the old man aside, exclaiming " Toote aipa matte te tayo" , ( Cook will not kill his friends!) and stepped into the boat with an air of undaunted majesty, that struck our Britons with astonishment. As soon as he was on board the ship, he descended into the cabin, accompanied by his wife Whainee-òw , his former wife, and her friend, and brought his presents to captain Cook. Potatow was one of the tallest men we had seen upon the island, and his features were so mild, comely, and at the same time majestic, that Mr. Hodges immediately applied himself to copy from them, as from the noblest models of nature. His portrait is inserted in captain Cook's own account of this voyage. His whole body was remarkably strong and heavily built, so that one of his thighs nearly equalled in girth our stoutest sailor's waist. His ample garments, and his elegant white turban, set off his figure to the greatest advantage, and his noble deportment endeared him to us, as we naturally compared it with the diffidence of O-Too. Polatehera, his former wife, was so like him in stature and bulk, that we unanimously looked upon her as the most extraordinary woman we had ever seen. Her appearance and her conduct were masculine in the highest degree, and strongly conveyed the idea of superiority and command. When the Endeavour bark lay here, she had distinguished herself by the name of captain Cook's sister, ( tuaheine no Toote); and one day, being denied admittance into the fort on Point Venus, had knocked down the sentry who opposed her, and complained to her adopted brother of the indignity which had been offered to her. After a short stay, being told that we intended to get under way immediately, they asked, with every demonstration of friendship and with tears in their eyes, whether we intended to return. Captain Cook promised to be here again in the space of seven months, with which they rested perfectly satisfied, and departed immediately to the westward, their own canoes having followed our boat all the way.

In the mean while a young Taheitian, of the common class, who was very well made, and about seventeen years old, having talked to the captain of going no te whennua tei Bretane, (to the land of Britain), for several days past, had arrived on board with his father. His whole equipment consisted of a small piece of the Indian cloth wrapped about his loins; so entirely did he depend upon our care and protection. Captain Cook gave his father, who seemed to be a middle aged man, a hatchet and some presents of lesser value, with which he descended into his canoe with great composure and firmness, without manifesting any signs of grief. We had scarce cleared the reefs, when a canoe arrived with two or three natives, who demanded the youth back in the name of O-Too, and shewed some pieces of cloth which they intended as presents to the captain: but as they could not produce the iron-work which he had bestowed on the poor fellow's account, they were obliged to return without him. The youth, whose name was Porèa , spoke to them, but would not leave us, though, to terrify him, we understood that they presaged his death amongst us. However, when they were at some distance, he looked wishfully after them, leaned over the railing on the quarter-deck, and shed a flood of tears in an agony of grief. To divert him from his gloomy mood, we took him into the cabin, where he complained that he must surely die, and that his father would weep for his loss. Captain Cook and my father comforted him, saying they would be his fathers, upon which he hugged and kissed them, and passed from the extreme of despondence by a quick transition to a great degree of chearfulness. About sun-set he ate his supper, and lay down on the floor of the cabin; but seeing that we did not follow his example, he got up again, and remained with us till we had supped.

It was with great regret that we daparted from this delightful island, at a time when we were just become acquainted with its happy inhabitants. We had only passed fourteen days on its coast, two of which had been spent in removing from one port to the other. During this short space of time, we had lived in a continual round of tumultuous occupations, which had left us little leisure to study the nature of the people. An immense variety of objects relative to their œconomy, their customs and ceremonies, all which appeared new and interesting to us, had engaged our attention; but we afterwards found most of them had been observed by former navigators. These therefore, for fear of presuming too far on the indulgence of my readers, I have omitted in this narrative, and refer for the particular descriptions of the dwellings, dress, food, domestic amusements, boats and navigation, diseases, religion, and funeral rites, wars, weapons, and government, to the history of captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour bark, compiled by Dr. Hawkesworth (vol. II. from page 184 to page 248). All the merit of the preceding pages concerning the isle of Taheitee, must therefore consist in a few gleanings and elucidations on several subjects. However, I am in hopes that the particular point of view in which I have beheld, and consequently represented circumstances already familiar to the reader from former accounts, will not prove uninteresting, and may in several instances suggest new and valuable reflections.

The breeze with which we sailed was so moderate, that we continued near the shore the whole evening, and were able to distinguish the exuberant scenery of the plain, beautiful enough, even at this dead season of winter, to vie with the richest landscapes, which nature has lavished on different parts of the globe. Its fertile soil, and genial climate, which produces all sorts of nutritive vegetables almost spontaneously, insures the felicity of its inhabitants. Allowing for the imperfect state of sublunary happiness, which is comparative at best, there are not, I believe, many nations existing whose situation is so desirable. Where the means of subsistence are so easy, and the wants of the people so few, it is natural that the great purpose of human life, that of multiplying the number of rational beings, is not loaded with that multitude of miseries which are attendant upon the married state in civilized countries. The impulses of nature are therefore followed without restraint, and the consequence is a great population, in proportion to the small part of the island which is cultivated. The plains and narrow vallies are now the only inhabited parts, though many of the hills are very fit for culture, and capable of supporting an infinite number of people. Perhaps, in course of time, if the population should encrease considerably, the natives may have recourse to these parts, which are now in a manner useless and superfluous. The evident distinction of ranks which subsists at Taheitee, does not so materially affect the felicity of the nation, as we might have supposed. Under one general sovereign, the people are distinguished into the classes of aree, manahoùna, and towtow, which bear some distant relation to those of the feudal systems of Europe. The simplicity of their whole life contributes to soften these distinctions, and to reduce them to a level. Where the climate and the custom of the country do not absolutely require a perfect garment; where it is easy at every step to gather as many plants as form not only a decent, but likewise a customary covering; and where all the necessaries of life are within the reach of every individual, at the expence of a trifling labour, ambition and envy must in a greater measure be unknown. It is true, the higher classes of people possess some dainty articles, such as pork, fish, fowl, and cloth almost exclusively; but the desire of indulging the appetite in a few trifling luxuries, can at most render individuals, and not whole nations, unhappy. Absolute want occasions the miseries of the lower class in some civilized states, and is the result of the unbounded voluptuousness of their superiors. At O-Taheitee there is not, in general, that disparity between the highest and the meanest man, which subsists in England between a reputable tradesman and a labourer. The affection of the Taheitians for their chiefs, which they never failed to express upon all occasions, gave us great room to suppose that they consider themselves as one family, and respect their eldest-born in the persons of their chiefs. Perhaps the origin of their government was patriarchal, and the king might only be dignified by virtue of being considered as the father of his people, till by degrees the constitutions settled into its present form. Still there remains much ancient simplicity in that familiarity between the sovereign and the subject. The lowest man in the nation speaks as freely with his king as with his equal, and has the pleasure of seeing him as often as he likes. This intercourse would become more difficult as soon as despotism should begin to gain ground. The king at times amuses himself with the occupations of his subjects, and not yet depraved by the false notions of an empty state, often paddles his own canoe, without thinking such an employment derogatory to his dignity. How long such an happy equality may last, is uncertain; since the indolence of the chiefs is already, notwithstanding the exuberant fertility of the soil, a step towards its destruction. Though cultivation is a labour scarce felt at present by the towtows, to whom it is allotted; yet by insensible degrees it will fall heavier upon them, as the number of chiefs must naturally increase in a much greater proportion, than their own class, for this obvious reason, because the chiefs are perfectly unemployed. This addition of labour will have a bad effect on their bodies, they will grow ill-shaped, and their bones become marrowless: their greater exposure to the action of a vertical sun, will blacken their skins, and they will dwindle away to dwarfs, by the more frequent prostitution of their infant daughters, to the voluptuous pleasures of the great. That pampered race, on the contrary, will preserve all the advantages of an extraordinary size, of a superior elegance of form and features, and of a purer colour, by indulging a voracious appetite, and living in absolute idleness. At last the common people will perceive these grievances, and the causes which produced them; and a proper sense of the general rights of mankind awaking in them, will bring on a revolution. This is the natural circle of human affairs; at present there is fortunately no room to suppose, that such a change will take place for a long series of years to come; but how much the introduction of foreign luxuries may hasten that fatal period, cannot be too frequently repeated to Europeans. If the knowledge of a few individuals can only be acquired at such a price as the happiness of nations, it were better for the discoverers, and the discovered, that the South Sea had still remained unknown to Europe and its restless inhabitants.

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CHAP. X.

Account of our Transactions at the Society Islands.

[1773. September.]THE wind with which we sailed from O-Taheitee, freshened after sun-set, and favoured our departure from that happy island, which we still discerned by moonlight.

[Thursday 2.]The next day, at eleven o'clock, we saw the isle of Huahine, which is about twenty-five leagues from Taheitee, and was first discovered by captain Cook, on the 11th of July, 1769. A number of our people now felt the effects of their intercourse with the women at Matavaï Bay, and had symptoms of a disagreeable complaint. All the patients, however, without exception, had this disease only in a very slight and benign degree. The question which has been agitated between the French and English navigators, concerning the first introduction of this evil to Taheitee, might be decided very favourably for them both, by supposing the disease to have existed at Taheitee previous to their arrival. The argument, that none of captain Wallis's people received the infection, does not seem to controvert this supposition, but only proves, that the women, who prostituted themselves to his crew, were free from it: which was perhaps owing to a precaution of the natives, who might be apprehensive of exposing themselves to the anger of the strangers, by conferring such a desperate gift upon them [101] See M. de Bougainville's Voyage, English Edition, pag. 273, 274, 285, 286. and Hawkesworth, vol. I. p. 489, 490. and vol. II. p. 232. M. de Bougainville, with the politeness of a well-bred man, doubts, whether the disease existed at Taheitee previous to his arrival or not; the English seaman asserts his opinion as fact in positive terms. . We heard, however, of another disease of a different nature, whilst we staid upon the island; and which they called o-pay-no-Peppe, (the sore of Peppe), adding, that it was brought by the ship which they designed by that name, and which, according to different accounts, had either been two, three, or five months before us at Taheitee. By the account of the symptoms, it seemed to be a kind of leprosy. Nothing is more easy than to imagine, how the strangers (Spaniards), who visited Taheitee in that ship, might be innocently charged with introducing that disease. In order to give rise to a general error of this sort, it is sufficient that it broke out nearly about the time of their arrival, and that some distant connections between them and the persons affected, could be traced. This is the more probably, as it is certain, that there are several sorts of leperous complaints existing among the inhabitants, such as the elephantiasis, which resembles the yaws; also an eruption of the whole skin, and lastly a monstrous rotting ulcer, of a most loathsome appearance. However, all these very seldom occur, and especially the last; for the excellence of their climate, and the simplicity of their vegetable food, which cannot be too much extolled, prevent not only these, but almost all dangerous and deadly disorders.

[Friday 3.]Towards sun-set we brought to within two leagues of Huahine; and the next day, at four o'clock, doubled the north end of that island, and then bore up for the harbour of O-Wharre. Huahine is divided by a deep inlet into two peninsulas, connected by an isthmus entirely overflowed at high-water. Its hills are much inferior to those of Taheitee in height, but their appearance strongly indicated them as the former seats of a volcano. The summit of one of them had much the appearance of a crater, and a blackish spungy rock was seen on one of its sides, which seemed to be lava. At sun-rise we beheld some of the other Society Isles, called O-Raietea ( Ulietea), O-Taha, and Borabora ( Bolabola. The last forms a peak like Maâtea, but infinitely higher and more considerable, on the top of which there appeared also the crater of a volcano. There are two entrances to O-Wharre harbour; of these we chose the southermost, and having a very steady breeze off shore, our navigators tried their skill in working in. The entrance might be about three or four hundred yards long, and barely a hundred yards wide between two reefs. However in this space we made six or seven trips with amazing dexterity, each trip lasting about two or three minutes. We had not yet worked in, when the Adventure came in after us, but unfortunately approached too near one of the reefs, just as she was putting about, and leaned on the side of the coral rock. We were for the present intent only in saving our own ship for fear of the worst that might happen, and soon after came to an anchor. As soon as that was done, our boats were dispatched to the assistance of our consort, and she was towed into the harbour. Her bottom being examined, it was found that she had suffered no damage, which was likewise the case with the Resolution, when she struck on the coast of Tiarraboo.

The appearance of the country was exactly the same here as at Taheitee, but upon a much smaller scale; the circumference of the whole isle being only about seven or eight leagues. The plains are therefore very inconsiderable, and there are hardly any intermediate hills between them and the higher mountains, which take their rise immediately from the skirts of the plain. The country, however, contained a variety of pleasant little spots. Not a single canoe came off to us here beyond the reefs, but we had not been long at anchor before a few of them arrived loaded with coco-nuts, bread-fruit, and large fowls. We were very glad to meet with these birds, having obtained only a single pair at Taheitee, where they had been entirely swept away by former navigators. Amongst the natives who came on board, there was one who had a monstrous rupture or hernia, which did not seem to incumber him much, as he came up the sides of the ship with great agility. The natives spoke the same language, had the same features, and wore the same cloth, made of bark, as those of Taheitee; but none of their women appeared. They bartered very fairly for our beads and nails, and in a little time had sold us a dozen of very large cocks, of a beautiful plumage; but it may be remarked, that they seldom brought the hens for sale. Towards eleven o'clock the captains went on shore to a large shed, of which the sides reached to the ground, and which gave shelter to a double canoe. Here they appointed a person to trade with the natives, which they did so regularly that we collected upwards of twenty hogs this day for large spike nails or small hatchets, and about a dozen of dogs, which seemed to be the most stupid animals of their kind, but were reckoned excellent provision by the natives. During our first walk we found two plants which we had not seen before; and we took notice that all the bread-trees in that part had already young fruit, of the size of small apples, which, as the natives said, would not be ripe in less than four months. The district where we landed seemed to be entirely destitute of bananas; the natives, however, brought us some bunches of this fruit from other parts, which proves that they have the art of managing some of their plantations so as to produce at different seasons; but these late crops are, as may be easily conceived, very trifling in quantity, and reserved for the luxury of their chiefs.

We returned on board to dinner, and afterwards made another excursion on shore, where we were told, that the chiefs of the island would make their appearance the next day. We were not much incommoded by the inhabitants on our rambles, our train seldom exceeding fifteen or twenty, except near a place of general resort, such as the shed where our trade was carried on. The smallness of the island might be the principal cause of the difference from what we had experienced at Taheitee; but it must be added, that the natives here were not well enough acquainted with our disposition to expect to reap any advantage from following us; and did not, upon the whole, express that degree of curiosity, nor of fear, which was inherent in the Taheitians, who had had sufficient cause to dread the superior power of our fire-arms.

Our Taheitian friend Porea went ashore with us in a linen frock and a pair of trowsers, and carried captain Cook's powder-horn and shot-pouch. He told us that he was desirous to be looked upon as one of our people, and therefore never spoke the Taheitian language, but continued to mutter some unintelligible sounds, which actually imposed upon the multitude. To favour the illusion, he would no longer hearken to his Taheitian name Porea, but desired to have an English one; the sailors immediately called him Tom, with which he was extremely well pleased, and soon learnt the usual answer of Sir, which he expressed Yorro. What aim he proposed to himself in assuming this disguise, we could not conceive, unless it was, that he expected to have greater consequence in the character of an English sailor, than that of a Taheitian towtow.

The next day my father accompanied the captains to the trading-place, and from thence to the north part of the harbour, where they found the acting chief, Oree, who was the uncle of the present king Territarea (perhaps T'-Aree-Tarea). They put ashore near a house on the waterside, where Oree was seated amidst a number of his attendants. Two of the natives who were in the boat, seeing our gentlemen preparing to land, desired them to sit still a while, till they had brought some plantane-stems, in sign of peace and friendship. They presented two of these to our people, and desired them to ornament them with large nails, looking-glasses, medals, &c. This request being complied with, the stems thus loaded were brought on shore and presented, whilst they bid our people pronounce to the first no t'Eatua, " for the Divinity," and to the second, na te tayo O-Toote no Oree, " from the friend, Cook, to Oree." This done, our people received in their turn five plantane-stalks successively under the following denominations.

1. The first, accompanied with a pig, no t'Aree " from the king," (meaning T'aree-tarea who was a boy about seven or eight years old).

2. The second, with another pig, no t'Eatua, " for the divinity."

3. The third, no te Toimoe. This term was entirely unintelligible to our people at that time, but it appeared from subsequent explanations, to signify " a welcome."

4. The fourth with a dog, no te Toura, " from the rope." Here, though the words were understood, the meaning was, if possible, more obscure than in the preceding article, and what is worse, we could never obtain any light upon the subject.

5. The last with a pig, na te tayo O-Oree no Toote, " from the friend Oree to Cook."

To conclude this ceremony, the same man who brought all these things, likewise presented a red bag, containing a piece of pewter with this inscription, " His Britannic Majesty's ship, Endeavour. Lieutenant Cook commander, 16th of July 1769. Huahine," together with a counter [102] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 253. . This testimony of captain Cook's first visit to the island of Huahine, which he had left to Oree with an injunction never to part with it, was probably laid before him at present, to shew that his directions had been strictly adhered to. As soon as he had received it, he stepped ashore with all his company, and embraced Oree, who was an old man between fifty and sixty, thin, and very blear-eyed. He received our people very cordially as known friends, and presented several large bales of cloth to the captain; after which the inhabitants flocked in great numbers to his house, with abundance of fowls, hogs, and dogs, which they eagerly sold for the trifling consideration of nails, knives, and small hatchets.

In the mean while Dr. Sparrman and myself, after landing at the trading-place, proceeded to Oree's house by land. On this walk we saw great numbers of hogs, dogs, and fowls. The last roamed about at pleasure through the woods, and roosted on fruit-trees; the hogs were likewise allowed to run about, but received regular portions of food, which were commonly distributed by old women. We observed one of them in particular, feeding a little pig with the sour fermented bread-fruit paste, called mahei; she held the pig with one hand, and offered it a tough pork's skin, but as soon as it opened the mouth to snap at it, she contrived to throw a handful of the sour paste in, which the little animal would not take without this stratagem. The dogs in spite of their stupidity, were in high favour with all the women, who could not have nursed them with a more ridiculous affection, if they had really been ladies of fashion in Europe. We were witnesses of a remarkable instance of kindness, when we saw a middle aged woman, whose breasts were full of milk, offering them to a little puppy which had been trained up to suck them. We were so much surprised at this sight, that we could not help expressing our dislike of it; but she smiled at our observation, and added, that she suffered little pigs to do the same service. Upon enquiry however, we found that she had lost her child, and did her the justice amongst ourselves to acknowledge that this expedient was very innocent and formerly practised in Europe [103] The Indian women in America, whose milk is remarkably abundant, have frequent recourse to this expedient to drain their breasts. See the Canon Pauw's Recherches Philosophiques sur les Americains, vol. I. p. 55. . The dogs of all these islands were short, and their sizes vary from that of a lap-dog to the largest spaniel. Their head is broad, the snout pointed, the eyes very small, the ears upright, and their hair rather long, lank, hard, and of different colours, but most commonly white and brown. They seldom if ever barked, but howled sometimes, and were shy of strangers to a degree of aversion.

We met with some of the birds here, which we had already seen at Taheitee and also a blue white-bellied king's-fisher, and a greyish heron. We shot some of each sort, but found a number of people among the croud, who annexed an idea of holiness to these birds, and called them eatooas, which is the same name by which they design God. There were however at all times, at least an equal, if not greater number of people who desired us to shoot them, and were very ready to point them out. Neither did any of them express a mark of disapprobation after we had killed the birds. It is certain that they do not look upon them as divinities, because these according to their ideas are invisible; but the name of eatooa which they bestow on them, seems to convey an idea of a much greater veneration, than that which protects swallows and other birds in England, against the mischievous pursuit of unlucky boys. Here and in many other circumstances relative to civil, political, and religious institutions, we are entirely at a loss; and on account of our short continuance among these islanders, as well as for want of knowing their language, could never obtain any satisfactory information.

With the acquisitions which we had made, we continued our excursion to the northern arm of the harbour, where Mr. Smith, one of our mates, superintended the waterers. We found a number of natives assembled about him, who brought so many hogs for sale, that we were plentifully supplied with fresh meat, and could serve it every day to both ships companies. Vegetables on the other hand were so scarce here, that we rarely got plantanes, bread-fruit, and coco-nuts, but contented ourselves with some good yams, which when boiled supplied the place of bread. Towards noon we reached Oree's house, after walking along a beach of small white shell sand, amidst a low kind of coco-palms, affording a good deal of shade, which is always acceptable in these climates. Captain Cook had been more successful in trading than all the other parties, so that when we returned into the boat, we had scarce room enough to fit in it. In the afternoon we returned to Oree's house, where we found him surrounded by a great number of the principal people of the island. They appeared to be so exactly like the Taheitians, that we could perceive no difference, nor could we by any means verify that assertion of former navigators, that the women of this island were in general fairer and more handsome [104] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 254. ; but this may vary according to circumstances. They were however not so troublesome in begging for beads and other presents, nor so forward to bestow their favours on the new comers, though at our landing and putting off, some of the common sort frequently performed an indecent ceremony, which is described in the accounts of former voyagers, but without any of the preparatory circumstances which Ooratooa had practised [105] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 125. See also vol. I. p. 438, 440. They lifted up their garments from the knee to the waist. . We had likewise much less reason to extol the hospitality of the inhabitants, their general behaviour being rather more indifferent, and the Taheitian custom of reciprocal presents almost entirely unknown. On our walks we were unmolested, but their conduct was bolder and more unconcerned than that of the Taheitians, and the explosion, as well as the effects of our fowling-pieces did not strike them with fear and astonishment. These differences were certainly owing to the various treatment which the people of both islands had met with on the part of Europeans. There were, however, not wanting instances of hospitality and good-will even here. A chief, named Townùa, entreated my father to come to his house, which lay in the interior part of the plain. He accepted the invitation, and was very well entertained; besides having an opportunity of purchasing one of those targets or breast-plates which I have already mentioned.

[Sunday 5.] Oree came on board early the next morning with his sons, the eldest of them a handsome little boy, about eleven years old, who received our presents with great indifference; but he, as well as all the people of the island, were highly delighted with the bagpipe, and required it to be constantly played. With Oree who now went by the name of Cookee, as he had done whilst the Endeavour lay here [106] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 251. , we returned on shore, where we dispersed in search of plants and other curiosities. In the evening we all met together again, when Dr. Sparrman, who had been entirely by himself towards the north point of the isle, acquainted us that he had met with a large lagoon of salt-water, which extended several miles parallel to the coast, and had an intolerable stench on account of putrid mud which lay on its shores. Here he had met with several plants, which are common enough in the isles and coasts of the East Indies, but not so frequent in other parts of the South Sea islands. A single native, whom he had entrusted with his plant-bag, had proved extremely faithful to him. Whenever the doctor sat down to describe, the native seated himself behind him, and took both the skirts of his coat, containing his pockets, in his hand, in order, as he said, to prevent the thieves from coming at them. By this means the doctor had not lost any thing when he came on board; several of the natives, however, seeming to think him in their power, had bestowed upon him some ill-natured looks and opprobrious names.

The next day he ventured out again entirely by himself, while we remained at the trading-place with captain Cook. One of the natives, named Tubaï, a tall man, dressed in several large pieces of the cloth of bark, stained with red, and who had several bundles of birds feathers hanging at his girdle, prohibited the sale of hogs and bread-fruit, and actually seized a bag of nails which the captain's clerk held in his hand. However, when the latter called for assistance, he let it go again, and perceiving one of our young gentlemen trying to strike a bargain for a large fowl, he took a nail from him by force, and threatened to beat him with his club. A complaint being made to captain Cook, just as he was going aboard in a boat, he returned ashore, and bid Tubaï to leave the place. Upon his refusal, the captain went up to him and seized two large clubs which the native had in his hand; but the latter struggled with him, till captain Cook drew his hanger, on which he made off. The clubs, which were made of the casuarina wood, were broken and the pieces thrown into the sea, by the captain's order, while he recalled the rest of the natives, who began to be alarmed, and were preparing to leave the trading-place. They all agreed that this Tubaï was a bad man, ( tata-eeno), and seemed to think that we had done him justice. However, as captain Cook was going to send his boat on board for a party of marines to protect our traders, the whole croud dispersed at once and left us alone. We had not been above two minutes at a loss to account for their behaviour, when Dr. Sparrman arrived almost stripped naked, and with the marks of several violent blows. He had been accosted on his walk by two of the natives, who had invited him to proceed farther into the country, with many protestations of friendship, and repetitions of the word tayo. At once, taking the advantage of an unguarded moment, they tore from his side a hanger, the only weapon he had, and gave him a blow over his head as he was stooping to arm himself with a stone. He stumbled, and they tore a black satin waistcoat and several loose parts of dress from him. However, disengaging himself, he ran towards the beach and outstripped them, when some bind-weeds caught his feet, and detained him till the villains came up. They gave him repeated blows over his temples and shoulders, which stunned him; stripped his shirt over his head, and were just preparing to cut his hands, because the sleeve-buttons held the shirt, when he fortunately opened them with his teeth, and they made off with their booty. Not above fifty yards farther on, some natives were at dinner, who, seeing him passing by, came out and invited him to stop, but he hurried on towards the sea. In his way, however, he met two natives, who immediately took off their own cloth, ( ahòw), dressed him in it, and attended him to the trading-place. These honest people were rewarded to the best of our power with various presents, and we all hurried on board to reinforce our party. Dr. Sparrman being dressed again, accompanied us to Oree's house to whom we made our complaint. The old chief immediately resolved to assist captain Cook in the search after the thieves, but his noble resolution filled all his relations with terror. Upwards of fifty people of both sexes began to weep when he stepped into the boat; some with the most pathetic and moving gestures tried to dissuade him; and others held him back and embraced him; but he was not to be prevailed upon, and went off with us, saying, that he had nothing to apprehend, because he was not the guilty person. My father offered to remain on shore as an hostage, but he would not admit of it, and took only one of his relations in the boat with him. We rowed up a deep creek opposite the ships, where this villainy had been committed, and afterwards took a long walk into the country to no purpose; for all Oree's messengers, who were sent to apprehend the robbers, did not perform their duty. At last we returned to the boat, where Oree reembarked with us, notwithstanding the tears of an old lady and of her handsome daughter. The young woman, in a fit of frantic grief, took up some shells and cut herself on the head with them, but her mother tore them out of her hands, and actually accompanied Oree to the ship. Here he dined with us very heartily, but the woman, according to the custom of the country, would not touch our provisions. After dinner we brought him back to his house, which was crouded with different groups of the principal families on the island, who sat on the ground, and many of whom shed tears plentifully. We sat down amongst these disconsolate people, and with all the Taheitian oratory we were masters of, endeavoured to sooth them into content and good humour. The women, in particular, shewed a great sensibility, and could not recover for a long while. At last we succeeded to appease their violence of grief; and, as some of us could not behold their distress, without admiring the excellence of their hearts, we naturally sympathized with them, with a degree of sincerity which entirely regained their confidence. It is indeed one of the happiest reflections which this voyage has enabled us to make, that instead of finding the inhabitants of these isles wholly plunged in sensuality, as former voyagers have falsely represented them, we have met with the most generous and exalted sentiments among them, that do honour to the human race in general. Vicious characters are to be met with in all societies of men; but for one villain in these isles, we can shew at least fifty in England, or any civilized country.

In a little time the trade went on as briskly as ever, and we were particularly fortunate in obtaining a supply of vegetables. Towards evening two of Oree's messengers arrived with the hanger and a part of Dr. Sparrman's waistcoat, which were restored to him, and with these soon after we returned on board.

In the morning, at day-break, the captains went to Oree's house, and returned the piece of pewter on which the commemoration of the first discovery was engraved. At the same time they gave him a piece of copper, with this inscription: his britannick majesty's ships resolution and adventure, september 1773. to which they added a number of medals, and desired him to shew it to any strangers that happened to touch here. As soon as they were on board again, the seamen hove the anchor, and we got under sail, in company with the Adventure. The quantity of live stock which we had purchased during our three days stay was amazing, and shewed how great a value the natives had set upon our iron-work. The Resolution alone had two hundred and nine live hogs, thirty dogs, and about fifty fowls on board, when she sailed, and the Adventure had not much less. We were scarce got under way when Oree arrived along-side in a small canoe, and came on board; he acquainted us that the robbers, and the things they had carried off, were taken, and desired both the captains, as well as Dr. Sparrman, to come on shore, in order to see the villains punished. But unfortunately his story was misunderstood, and we lost an opportunity of seeing their method of inflicting punishments. Captain Cook believing that Oree spoke of some of his countrymen who were embarked in the Adventure against his will, immediately dispatched his boat to bring them back; but that vessel being a great way ahead, and we driving out to sea very fast, Oree became impatient, took a cordial leave of us all, and returned on shore in his little canoe, with only one of his countrymen to assist him. A little while after our boat returned from the Adventure, and brought on board O-Maï , the only native who had embarked in that vessel with a view to go to England. He staid on board our ship till we reached Raïetea, whither we now directed our course. As soon as we were come to an anchor there, he returned on board the Adventure, and afterwards came to England in her, and has for some time engrossed the attention of the curious. He seemed to be one of the common people at that time, as he did not aspire to the captain's company, but preferred that of the armourer and the common seamen. But when he reached the Cape of Good Hope, where the captain dressed him in his own clothes, and introduced him in the best companies, he declared he was not a towtòw, which is the denomination of the lowest class, and assumed the character of a hòa, or attendant upon the king. The world hath been amused at times with different fabulous accounts concerning this man, among which we need only mention the ridiculous story of his being a " Priest of the Sun;" a character which has never existed in the islands from whence he came. His stature was tall, but very slim, and his hands remarkably small. His features did not convey an idea of that beauty which characterizes the men at O-Taheitee; on the contrary, we do him no injustice to assert that, among all the inhabitants of Taheitee and the Society Isles, we have seen few individuals so ill-favoured as himself. His colour was likewise the darkest hue of the common class of people, and corresponded by no means with the rank he afterwards assumed. It was certainly unfortunate that such a man should be selected as a specimen of a people who have been justly extolled by all navigators, as remarkably well featured and coloured, considering the climate in which they live. The qualities of his heart and head resembled those of his countrymen in general; he was not an extraordinary genius like Tupaia, but he was warm in his affections, grateful, and humane; he was polite, intelligent, lively, and volatile. For a further account of O-Maï, I refer the reader to the preface, where I have mentioned his stay in England, his progress in knowledge, and his equipment at his return.

[Wednesday 8.]Having left Huahine we sailed to the westward, and doubled the south end of an island, discovered by captain Cook in 1769, which all the natives of Taheitee, and the Society Isles call O-Raietea, but which (upon what foundation I know not) is named Ulietea in captain Cook's charts [107] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 255, 260. . The next morning we anchored in an opening of the reef, and spent the whole day in warping into Hamaneno harbour. The country hereabouts afforded a prospect much resembling Taheitee; for the island being about three times the size of Huahine, had much broader plains, anad loftier hills. The natives surrounded us in a number of canoes, and brought a few hogs; but our people looked at them with a careless indifference, and offered very low prices, being difficult to please, since their success at Huahine. In one of the canoes a chief came on board, named Oruwherra, a native of the adjacent isle of Borabora ( Bolabola). He was very athletic, but his hands very small, and the punctuation, which the natives call tattow, consisted of the most singular square blotches on his arms, and of large black stripes across the breast, belly, and back. His loins and thighs were uniformly black. He brought some green branches, and a little pig which he presented to my father, being neglected by every body else. Having received a few iron-tools as a return, he descended immediately into his canoe, and was paddled to the shore. But in a little time, another canoe arrived from him with coco-nuts and bananas, which his servants offered to his new friend, refusing at the same time to accept of any retribution. The pleasure which we felt from this circumstance, can easily be conceived. Philanthropy is never better rewarded, than when its objects are endowed with good and amiable qualities.

In the afternoon another chief, a native of the same isle of Borabora, came on board, and exchanged names with my father. His name was Herea, and his person the most corpulent we ever saw in the South Sea islands; round his waist he measured no less than fifty-four inches, and one of his thighs was thirty-one inches and 3/4" in girth. His hair was likewise remarkable; for it hung down in long black wavy tresses to the small of his back, and in such quantity that it encreased the apparent bulk of his head considerably. His corpulence, his colour, and his punctures, like those of Oruwherra, were very distinguishing marks of his rank, to which indolence and luxury are annexed here as well as at Taheitee. It may perhaps want some explanation, how both these chiefs, who were natives of the adjacent isle of Borabora, could have any authority and possessions on Raietea. Already, in captain Cook's former voyage, it was known that O-Poonee the king of Borabora, had conquered not only the isle of Raietea, but likewise that of O-Taha, which is included in the same reef, and that of Mowrua which lies about fifteen leagues to the westward [108] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 266, 267. . The warriors who had served under him in these expeditions had been rewarded with ample possessions, and a great number of his subjects had received grants in the conquered islands. The king of Raietea Oo-Ooroo, was however confirmed in his dignity, though his power was confined to the district of Opoa; but at Taha, Poonee had placed a viceroy, named Boba, who was nearly related to him. Many of the natives of the conquered islands had retreated to Huahine and Taheitee, preferring a voluntary exile, to a submission to the conqueror, and hoping one day to rescue their country from oppression. It seems, this was the motive which prompted Tupaïa and O-Maï, who were both natives of Raietea, to embark in British ships, as both of them always expressed a hope of obtaining a quantity of our fire-arms. Tupaia might perhaps have carried his scheme into execution, if he had lived; but O-Maï's understanding was not sufficiently penetrative, to acquire a competent idea of our wars, or to adapt it afterwards to the situation of his countrymen. He was, however, so fond of the thought of freeing his country from the Borabora men, that he has frequently said, in England, if captain Cook did no assist him in the execution of his plan, he would take care that his countrymen should not supply him with refreshments. In this opinion he persisted till near the time of his departure, when he was persuaded to adopt more peaceable principles. We were at a loss to conceive the motives which could have induced a native of one of these islands to become a conqueror. If we believed the accounts of the Borabora men, their native island was as fertile and desireable as these of which they had taken possession; therefore nothing but a spirit of ambition could have stimulated them to contentions. Such a spirit ill agreed with the simplicity and generous character of the people, and it gave us pain to be convinced, that great imperfections cannot be excluded from the best of human societies.

[Thursday 9.]On the day after our arrival, the captains went on shore with us to a large house, close to the water's side, which he knew to be the residence of Orèa, the chief of the district. We found him sitting in his house, with his wife, son, daughter, and a great number of persons of distinction. Immediately after our arrival we sat down by them, and were shut in on all sides by a thick croud of the natives, who made the place excessively hot. Orèa was a middle-sized, lusty man, with a very lively intelligent countenance, and thin redish-brown beard. He joked and laughed very heartily with us, and entirely banished all kinds of ceremony and affectation. His wife was an elderly woman, but his son and daughter, about twelve and fourteen years old. The latter was of a very white colour, and her features had not much of the general character of the nation, particularly her nose, which was remarkably well-shaped, and her eyes, which gave her some resemblance to a Chinese. Her stature was low, but her body elegantly proportioned, and her hands graceful beyond description; only the legs and feet were too large for the rest of the figure, and the custom of cutting the hair short, appeared to be a great disadvantage. Her manners were very engaging, and she had a pleasing soft voice, like most of her country-women, so that she could not be refused, when she asked for beads or other trinkets. As it did not agree with our occupations, to stay in the house, we took a walk into the groves, where we shot a few birds, and collected some plants. We found here, to our great satisfaction, that confidence and familiarity amongst the common people, which we had not experience at Huahine, and we were happy at the same time not to be importuned by them, in the begging strain of the Taheitians. In the afternoon we made another excursion, and shot several king-fishers. As soon as we had shot the last, we met Orèa, and his family walking through the plain with captain Cook; the chief took no notice of the bird which we had in our hands, but his fair daughter lamented the death of her eatua, and ran from us, when we attempted to touch her with it. Her mother, and most of the women, seemed likewise to be grieved at this accident, and at stepping into the boat, the chief desired us with a very serious air, not to kill the king-fishers and herons on his island, allowing at the same time the liberty of shooting any other sorts of birds. We tried again to discover the nature of their veneration for these two species, but all our enquiries were as fruitless as they had been before.

We walked to the top of one of the neighbouring hills [Friday 10.]the next day, and found several new plants in the vallies, between them. The soil at the top was a kind of stone marle; on the sides we found some scattered flints, and a few small pieces of a cavernous or spungy stone-lava, of a whitish colour, which seemed to contain some remains of iron. This metal, which is of general and extensive utility, is dispersed through almost all parts of the world, by the benevolent hand of nature, and may perhaps even here be contained in the mountains, in great quantity. The lava indicated the existence of former volcanoes in this island, which we had indeed suspected, because all the adjacent isles, we had hitherto seen, strongly, and sometimes evidently bore the marks of changes by subterraneous fire. One of natives who had attended us, and carried some refreshments, pointed out the direction of several islands in the neighbourhood, but which lay out of sight. About due west, he said, the isle of Mopeehàh was situated, and about S. by W. another, named Whennua òwrah. Both these, according to his accounts, were not inhabited, and consisted only of circular ledges of coral, with palms on them, but were occasionally visited from this and the adjacent isles. They seem to be Lord Howe's Island, and the Scilly Isles, discovered by captain Wallis. We descended about noon, and found that captains Cook and Furneaux had just left the shore, after seeing a great dramatic dance, or heèva, performed by some of the principal women in the island. We hastened on board, as the day proved very hot, and found both our vessels surrounded by a great number of canoes, in which were several persons of distinction of both sexes, who brought vast quantities of cloth, made of the mulberry-tree's bark, and offered them in exchange for small nails. Our beads were much valued by the ladies as ornaments, but by no means current like the nails, so that we could not even purchase fruit with them. The Taheitians set a much higher value on these trifles, which have no intrinsic worth; may we not conclude therefore, that a greater degree of general opulence is the cause of their particular affection for trinkets, especially as affluence commonly tends to luxury?

The heat of the day prevented us from going on shore till near sun-set. We landed at the watering-place, where we found a little tupapow, or shed, under which a dead body was deposited on a stage, and a thick grove of various shady trees surrounded it on all sides. As I had never seen the remains of the dead carelessly exposed to all kinds of accidents in these islands, I was a little surprised to find the ground strewed with sculls and bones about this shed; nor could I meet with any native at this time, from whom I could receive the least information on this subject. I rambled about here for some time entirely alone, all the inhabitants having repaired to the chief's house, where the drums gave notice of another heeva, or public dance; for they are so fond of this amusement, that they croud together from a considerable distance to have the pleasure of seeing it performed. The stillness of the evening, and the beauty of the spot made this walk extremely pleasant, while the absence of the inhabitants encouraged some ideas of an enchanted country. Before we returned to our boat, we met, however, with a few of the natives, amongst whom one, a very intelligent man, gave us an account of nine islands in the neighbourhood, with most of which we were unacquainted. Their names were, 1. Mopeehàh , 2. Whennua-Oùrah , 3. Adeéha , 4. Towtèepa , 5. Wouwòu , 6. Oo-bòroo , 7. Tubooài , 8. Awhàow , and 9. Rorotòa . The two first we had already heard of in the morning, but of the rest he asserted that they all had their own inhabitants, except Adeéha, which is occasionally visited. Oobòrroo he said was a whennua or high land, but all the rest he called mòtoo, that is low islands, or such as consist of ledges of coral.

Our curiosity was so much raised by these accounts, that we applied for farther information to the chief Orèa, who came on board the next morning with his son Tehaïura, and several other chiefs. They enumerated the first, second, seventh and ninth islands of the preceding account; but their relations differed in this respect, as they told us the second was regularly inhabited. besides these they spoke of two more, one called Woreèo or Woureèa, a large island, and Oreèmatàrra another, both which had settled inhabitants. The accounts of the situation and distances of these isles were so various and so vague, that we could by no means depend upon them, for we never met with any man who had visited them; however, they served to convince us, that the natives of the Society Isles have sometimes extended their navigation farther than its present limits, by the knowledge they have of several adjacent countries. Tupaya, the famous man who embarked at Taheitee in the Endeavour, had enumerated a much more considerable list of names, and had actually drawn a map of their respective situations and magnitudes, of which lieutenant Pickersgill obligingly communicated a copy to me. In this map we found all the names above-mentioned, except Oobòrroo and Tubooài: but if his drawing had been exact, our ships must have sailed over a number of the islands which he had laid down. It is therefore very probably that the vanity of appearing more intelligent than he really was, had prompted him to produce this fancied chart of the South Sea, and perhaps to invent many of the names of islands in it, which amounted to more than fifty.

The chief and his son breakfasted with us, and went ashore with a number of presents in return for some of theirs. We followed soon after, and were invited by him to become spectators of a dramatic dance or heeva; which was the more readily accepted by us, as we had never seen one before. The place where it was performed was an area, about twenty-five yards long and ten wide, enclosed between two houses which stood parallel to each other. The one was a spacious building, capable of containing a great multitude of spectators; but the other was only a narrow hut, which was supported on a row of posts, and open towards the area, but perfectly closed up with reeds and mats on the opposite sides; one corner of it was matted on all sides, and this was the dressing-room of the performers. The whole area was spread with three large mats of the best workmanship, striped with black on the edges. In the open part of the smaller hut we saw three drums of different sizes, cut out of solid wood, and covered with shark's skin, which were continually struck with the fingers only by four or five men with amazing dexterity. The largest of these drums was about three feet high and one in diameter. We had already sat some time under the opposite roof, amidst the principal ladies of the island, when the actresses appeared. One of them was Poyadua, the fat daughter of the Chief Orèa, and the other a tall well shaped lady, of very agreeable features, and likewise a very fair complexion [109] That is, considering her as a native of the Society Isles. . Their dress was remarkably different from the usual fashion of these islands. It consisted of a piece of the brown cloth, of the country fabrick; or, instead of that, of a piece of blue European cloth, closely wrapped round the breast, so as to resemble the close dresses which our ladies wear; a kind of ruff of four rows of their cloth, alternately red and white, rested on their hips, being tied on with a string; and from thence a great quantity of white cloth descended to the feet, forming an ample petticoat, which we expected, from its length, would be a considerable impediment to their agility, as it fairly trailed on the ground on all sides. The neck, shoulders, and arms were left uncovered, but the head was ornamented with a kind of turban, about eight inches high, made of several skains of plaited human hair, which they call tamòw. These being laid above each other in circles, which enlarged towards the top, there was a deep hollow left in the middle, which they had filled up with a great quantity of the sweet-scented flowers of the ( gardenia) Cape jasmine. But all the front of the turban was ornamented with three or four rows of a small white flower, which formed little stars, and had as elegant an effect on the jetty black hair as if it had been set out with pearls. They moved to the sound of the drums, and to all appearance under the direction of an old man, who danced with them, and pronounced several words, which, from the tone of his voice, we took to be a song. Their attitudes and gestures were much varied, and sometimes might admit of being construed into wantonness; but they were entirely free from that positive degree of gross indecency which the chaste eyes of English ladies of fashion are forced to behold at the opera. The movement of their arms is certainly very graceful, and the continual gesticulation of their fingers has something extremely elegant. The only action which gives offence to all our ideas of gracefulness and harmony, is the frightful custom of writhing their mouths into the strangest distortions, which it was impossible for any one of us to imitate. They screwed their mouth into a slanting direction, and at last threw the lips into a waving or undulated form, which seemed to us to be performed by means of an habitual and sudden convulsion. After they had danced for about ten minutes, they retired into the part of the house which I called their dressing-room, and five men, dressed in mats, took their place, performing a kind of drama. This consisted of dancing in an indecent manner, and of a dialogue which had some cadence, and in which they sometimes pronounced a few words shouting all together. This dialogue seemed to be closely connected with their actions. One of them kneeled down, and another beat him and plucked him by the beard, repeating the same ceremony with two others; but the last seized and beat him in his turn with a stick. After this they withdrew, and the drummers gave notice of the second act of dancing, which the two ladies performed with little variation from the first. The men took their turn a second time; the ladies succeeded them again, and concluded with a fourth act. Then they sat down to rest themselves, appearing fatigued to a great degree, and in a most profuse perspiration; one of them in particular, being rather lustier and of a lively disposition, had a suffusion of red in her cheeks, which was the strongest proof of her fair complexion. The other, Orèa's daughter, had performed her part to admiration, notwithstanding the fatigue of the preceding day, when she had acted both in the morning and evening. The officers of both ships, who were present, and ourselves, loaded them with a great variety of beads and ornaments, which they had so well deserved.

In the afternoon Oo-òoroo, the kind of the isle of Raietea, came on board with Orèa and several ladies, to visit captain Cook. He brought a hog as an introductory present, and was well repaid with a great quantity of European goods. Among the ladies was one of the dancers, named Teina or Teinamai, who had performed in the morning, and whose complexion we had much admired. She now appeared to much greater advantage than in the cumbrous dress which she wore during the ceremony. Her own hair, which fortunately was not cut, formed finer ebon ringlets than ever the luxuriant fancy of a painter produced, and a narrow fillet of white cloth was carelessly passed between them. Her eyes were full of fire and expression, and an agreeable smile sat in her round face. Mr. Hodges took this opportunity of drawing a sketch of her portrait, which her vivacity and restless disposition rendered almost impossible. This was, perhaps, the reason that he was less successful than usual, as the representation which is inserted in captain Cook's own account of this voyage, is infinitely below the delicacy of the original, notwithstanding the excellence of Mr. Sherwin's engraving. But though it has lost the resemblance to Teinamai, it may serve as a specimen of the generality of features in this and the neighbouring islands, and gives a tolerable idea of a Taheitian boy about ten years old. Towards sun-set, all our noble visitors returned ashore, extremely well pleased with the reception which they had met with; a number of women of the lowest rank, however, remained on our decks, with a complaisance equal to that of the Taheitian girls (see pag. 336).

It was remarkable that they were not without some degree of vanity, as they never gave themselves any other name than that of tedùa, (lady), which is the title of their female nobility, and which, by way of eminence, is particularly applied to the princesses of these islands. If the king's sister happened to pass by while we sat in a house at Taheitee, the natives who surrounded us were warned to uncover their shoulders, by some one who spied her at a distance, simply saying tedua harremai, (the lady comes hither!) or else they only said aree! which on such occasions always denoted one of the royal family. Our sailors, who did not understand the language, took it for granted that their dulcineas were all of one name, which frequently occasion some pleasant mistakes.

[Sunday 12.][Monday 13.]We spent the two next days in various rambles along the shores, in which we found many deep creeks towards the northern part, with marshes at the bottom, where wild-ducks and snipes resided in great plenty. These birds were more shy than we expected, which we soon learnt was owing to their being much pursued by the natives, who looked upon them as dainty bits. On the first of these days we were likewise entertained with another heeva or dramatic dance, by the same persons who had performed it before. It was in every respect the same with that which we saw on the 1th, only its duration was much shorter.

[Tuesday 14.]On the 14th, at day-break, captain Cook sent his launch, and captain Furneaux another boat, to the isle of O-Tahà, which was two or three leagues distant, and inclosed in the same reef within which we lay at anchor. They were in hopes of purchasing some fruit there, which was very scarce at Raietea, and to that purpose provided lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Rowe the mate of the Adventure, with a quantity of beads and nails. Dr. Sparrman and my father, unwilling to miss this opportunity of examining another island, likewise embarked with them.

Orea, the chief of this part of the island, having invited us to come and dine on shore, the captains, with several officers and passengers of both ships, and myself, went on shore about noon, taking with us a little pepper and salt, some knives, and a few bottles of wine. A great part of the chief's spacious house was spread with quantities of leaves, which served as a table-cloth, round which we seated ourselves, with the principal inhabitants. We had not waited long, before one of the common people arrived with a hog smoking on his shoulders, roasted whole, and wrapped in a large bundle of plantane-leaves, which he threw upon the floor in the midst of us: a second tossed a smaller to us in the same manner; and these were followed by several others bringing baskets, full of bread-fruit, bananas, and the fermented paste of bread-fruit, called mahei. Our host now desired us to help ourselves, and in a short time we had cut the two hogs in pieces. All the women, and the common sort of people, applied to us with a begging tone for portions, and what we distributed was handed from our neighbours, to the remotest persons in the croud. The men consumed their share with every mark of a good appetite, but the women carefully wrapped theirs up, and preserved it till they should be alone. The eagerness with which they repeated their importunities, as well as the envious looks of the chiefs, whenever we granted the request, convinced us, that the commonalty were in this island deprived of all sorts of luxuries and dainties. We all agreed that the pork which was set before us, tasted infinitely better, than if it had been dressed after the European manner. It was much juicier than our boiled, and beyond comparison more tender than roasted meat. The equal degree of heat with which it stews under-ground, had preserved and concentrated all its juices. The fat was not luscious and surfeiting, and the skin instead of being hard as a stone, which is always the case with our roasted pork, was as tender as any other part. After dinner our bottles and glasses were brought in, and our friend Orèa drank his share without flinching, which appeared to us rather extraordinary, since almost all the natives of these islands expressed a great dislike to our strong liquors. Sobriety is a virtue almost universal with them, and particularly among people of inferior rank. They are however acquainted with an intoxicating beverage, which is much admired by some of the old chiefs. It is made in the most disgustful manner that can be imagined, from the juices contained in the root of a species of pepper-tree. This root is cut small, and the pieces chewed by several people, who spit the macerated mass into a bowl, where some water (milk) of coco-nuts is poured upon it. They then strain it through a quantity of the fibres of coco-nuts, squeezing the chips, till all their juices mix with the cocoa-nut-milk; and the whole liquor is decanted into another bowl. They swallow this nauseous stuff as fast as possible; and some old topers value themselves on being able to empty a great number of bowls. I was present at the whole process one of the first days after our arrival at this island. Our passenger, Porea, who was not so reserved with the natives here as he had been at Huahine, brought one of his new acquaintances into the captain's cabin, and immediately sat down with him to perform the operation. He drank about a pint, which in less than a quarter of an hour made him so dead drunk, that he lay down on the floor without motion; his face was inflamed, and his eyes swelled out of his head. A sound sleep of several hours was necessary to restore him to his senses; but as soon as he had recovered them, he appeared thoroughly ashamed of his debauch. The pepper-plant is in high esteem with all the natives of these islands as a sign of peace; perhaps, because getting drunk together, naturally implies good fellowship. It seems, however, that drunkenness here is punished, like all other excesses, by disease. The old men who make a practice of it are lean, covered with a scaly or scabby skin, have red eyes, and red blotches on all parts of the body. They acknowledge these evils to be the consequence of drinking; and to all appearance, the pepper-plant, which they call awa, tends to produce leprous complaints.

As soon as we had dined, our boat's crew and servants feasted on the remains; and the same croud who had profited by our liberality before, now paid their court to them. The sailors were complaisant only to the fair sex; and giving way to their natural disposition for sensuality, for every piece of pork required the performance of an indecent denudation. To complete our entertainment this day, the chief gave orders for performing another heeva, and we were admitted (behind the scenes) to see the ladies dressing for that purpose. They obtained some strings of beads on this occasion, with which we took it into our heads to improve upon their ornaments, much to their own satisfaction. Among the spectators we observed several of the prettiest women of this country; and one of them was remarkable for the whitest complexion we had ever seen in all these islands. Her colour resembled that of white wax a little sullied, without having the least appearance of sickness, which that hue commonly conveys; and her fine black eyes and hair contrasted so well with it, that she was admired by us all. She received at first a number of little presents, which were so many marks of homage paid at the shrine of beauty; but her success, instead of gratifying, only sharpened her love of trinkets, and she incessantly importuned every one of us as long as she suspected we had a single bead left. One of the gentlemen fortunately happened to have a little padlock in his hand, which she begged for as soon as she had perceived it. After denying it for some time, he consented to give it her, and locked it in her ear, assuring her that was its proper place. She was well pleased for some time; but finding it too heavy, desired him to unlock it. He flung away the key, giving her to understand at the same time, that he had made her the present at her own desire, and that if she found it incumbered here, she should bear it as a punishment for importuning us with her petitions. She was disconsolate upon this refusal, and weeping bitterly, applied to us all to open the padlock; but if we had been willing, we were not able to comply with her request for want of the key. She applied to the chief; and he as well as his wife, son and daughter, joined in praying for the release of her ear; they offered cloth, perfume-wood, and hogs, but all in vain. At last a small key was found to open the padlock, which put an end to the poor girl's lamentation, and restored peace and tranquility among all her friends. Her adventure had however this good effect, that it cured her and some of her forward country-women of their idle habit of begging. In the evening we returned on board, highly pleased with the hospitality and general good disposition of the natives towards us. We were therefore surprised the next morning, that not a single canoe would come off to us, and going to Orèa's house, in order to enquire the reason of this sudden change of behaviour, we to our farther astonishment found it abandoned by him and his family. A few of the natives, who came to us with a good deal of diffidence, told us that he had retired towards the north point of the island, being afraid that we meant to take him prisoner. It was immediately resolved upon to follow, in order to undeceive him, and give him fresh assurance of friendship. We rowed along shore for several miles, till we came to the place to which he had retired. At our interview all were in tears, so that we were obliged to have recourse to a variety of caresses, to inspire them with new confidence towards us, and our beads, nails, and hatchets, were not the least efficacious arguments. They told us they believed captain Cook would confine them, in order to force their country-men to bring back those people who were run away from us to O-Taha. We now saw through their mistake, and assured them that our party had not run away, but was sent on purpose, and would certainly return this night. Orèa not yet satisfied, named each of the principal persons in that party singly, and enquired concerning every one, whether he would come back, and the positive answers which we returned, at last quieted his apprehensions. While we were sitting in a circle with them, Porea our Taheitian, who intended to go to England, came running to the captain, returned the powder-horn, which he had hitherto carried for him, and said he would come back to us presently. We waited in vain a good while, and at last were obliged to return on board without him; nor did we see him again during the little time we remained on the island. From the natives we could gather but little information, and the captain fearing lest they should take new alarm, if he interested himself too strongly in his behalf, entirely dropped the enquiry. After dinner I accompanied him to the shore again, on a visit to Orèa. A very handsome youth, about seventeen years of age, who went by the name of O-Hedeedee, and who appeared to be of the better sort of people by his complexion and good garments, addressed himself to me, expressing a desire to embark for England. I was not inclined to believe at first, that he would forsake the easy way of life, which persons of his rank enjoyed in these islands, and smiling at his proposal, told him the disagreeable circumstances to which he exposed himself by leaving his country. But, though I represented to him the rigours of climate which we had to endure, and the bad provisions to which he should be reduced in time, he was not to be dissuaded from his resolution, and a number of his friends joined with him to desire his admittance into our ship. Upon this I presented him to captain Cook, and he having granted his request, we all returned on board together. Before sun-set our boats returned from O-Taha, where they had collected a load of bananas and coco-nuts, and a few hogs. They landed there on the 14th in the morning, after a few hours sail, in a fine bay on the east side, called O-Hamene. The country and its inhabitants perfectly resembled those of the other islands in this archipelago. Their productions, vegetable and animal, were in general the same, varying only in the abundance or scarcity of some articles. Thus, for instance, the tree, which our sailors called the apple-tree, ( spondias), was plentiful at Taheitee, extremely rare at Raietea and Huahine, and not very common at Tahà; fowls were hardly to be met with at Taheitee, but common in the Society Isles; and rats, which infested Taheitee in numberless myriads, were not quite so numerous at O-Tahà; still less frequent at Raietea, and seen in very inconsiderable numbers at Huahine.

After our party had dined in O-Hamene harbour, they removed to the next creek to the north, and walked to the house of a chief named O-Tàh, where the natives said there would be a heeva or public dance. The crowd increased prodigiously as they approached it, and in their way they saw a woman at a considerable distance, dressed in a singular habit [110] This is to be described in the sequel. , and blacked all over. They were told she performed the burial rite, or mourned for a dead person. They found the aree, who was an elderly man, sitting on a wooden stool, of which he offered one half to my father. The dance was begun some time after by three young girls, the eldest not exceeding ten, and the youngest about five years of age. The usual music was performed on three drums, and in the intervals of the dance three men performed something of a pantomime drama, which represented travellers asleep, and thieves dextrously conveying away their goods, round which they had, for greater security, placed themselves. During their performance the croud made way for several people who advanced towards the house in pairs, but stopped at the entrance. They were well dressed, with sashes of their red cloth round their loins, and skains of the tamòw or plaited hair round their heads, and the whole upper part of their body was naked and anointed with coco-nut oil. Some among them were grown men and some boys. O-Tàh called them the O-Da-widdee [111] Mahine and Omai called them by the name of Hea-biddhee and explained the word to signify relations. , which, from the gestures he made to explain himself, our people understood to be mourners. When they appeared the area of the entrance was spread with cloth of bark, which was, however, taken up immediately and given to the drummers. One of the latter quarrelled with another native, and they fought, pulling each other by the hair, and giving some hearty blows. However, that the entertainment might not be interrupted, another drummer was substituted, and the boxers turned out of the house. Towards the end of the dance the croud made way, and the O-Da-widdee appeared once more, but stood still, as they had done at first, without performing any other particular rite.

A great number of canoes were hauled up along the shore before the chief's house, and in one of them, which had a roof or covering, there was a dead corse, for which the mourning rites were instituted. Our gentlemen were obliged, therefore, to lay up their boats a little farther on, where they passed the night under shelter of a good house, whilst it blew and rained excessively hard.

The next morning the chief, O-Tah, went into the boat with them, and they sailed round the north point of the isle, seeing a number of long low islands, covered with palm and other trees, which lay in the reef. They bought a quantity of good bananas about ten o'clock, and dined a little farther to the southward, near the house of the greatest chief in the island, whose name was Boba, and who governed it as a viceroy for O-Poonee, the king of Borabora, ( Bolabola) but was not on the island at that time. After dinner they missed a bag, which contained a number of nails, some looking-glasses, and several strings of beads, being their whole stock in trade. After a short debate, the officers resolved to seize as much of the property of the inhabitants as possible, in order to force them to a restitution. They immediately began at the place where they traded, and took away a hog, some mother of pearl shells, and a quantity of cloth, not without being obliged to threaten with fire-arms. The party was then divided; some guarded the boats, some the goods which were seized, and some, with the lieutenant at their head, advanced into the country in quest of greater seizures. The old chief, O-Tah, accompanied them, and was under the strongest influence of fear, which manifested itself like that of the dogs in the fable [112] See Phӕdr. Fab. . Wherever they came the inhabitants hurried away before them, and drove their hogs into the mountains. The officer ordered three muskets to be fired to frighten them, upon which a chief, who had one leg and foot swelled to an enormous size by the elephantiasis, returned and surrendered his hogs and several large bales of cloth. Our people next proceeded to Boba's house, which they stripped of two targets and a drum, and with these spoils they retired to the house which they had occupied before. O Tàh left them in the evening, but returned soon after with the stolen bag, containing about one half of the nails, beads, &c. which were taken away with it, and passed the night among our party. Early the next morning the proprietors of the goods which our people had seized, were told that every thing should be restored on condition that they procured the remaining beads and nails. In the mean time they advanced towards O Herurua Bay on the S. W. part of the island, and, on their way, the chief, O-Tàhupon which our people gave up the cloth, hogs, targets, &c. which had hitherto remained in their hands, and rewarded the owner of the hut, where they had passed the night, as well as the old chief, for their fidelity and kindness. The beads which they had recovered, enabled them to purchase a quantity of bananas in the district of Herurua, and afterwards in a bay called A-Poto-Poto or the Round Bay, where they saw one of the largest houses in all the Society Isles. It was full of inhabitants, many of whom lodged with their families in different parts of it; the whole appearing to be rather a public building, erected for the casual shelter of travellers, like the carvansaras of the East, than a private dwelling-house. Here they dined, and after disposing of every bead and nail which they had brought with them, set out on their return to the ships, where they arrived about four o'clock in the afternoon, thoroughly wet by the waves which beat into their boats.

The next morning, the chief Orèa with his family came to take leave of us, and the ship was filled with the friends of O-Hedeedee, who embarked with us, bringing him cloth of the country fabric, and a sea provision of their balls of fermented bread-fruit (mahei) which they are very fond of, and which is one of the most nutritive substances in the world. The daughter of Orèa, who had never ventured to visit us before, came on board on this occasion, to beg for the green awning of the captain's boat, which had mightily struck her fancy. She received abundance of presents, but the captain could not possibly grant her request. The trade for their tools, cloth, &c. was very brisk all round the ship about this time, till the anchor was weighed. Our friends parted from us, with the sincerest expressions of grief, and shedding floods of tears, reproached some of us with a want of sensibility. Our civilized education in general tends to stifle the emotions of our heart; for as we are too often taught to be ashamed of them, we unhappily conquer them by custom. On the contrary, the simple child of nature, who inhabits these islands, gives free course to all his feelings, and glories in his affection towards the fellow-creature.

Mollissima corda

Humano generi dare se natura fatetur,

Quӕ lacrymas dedit; hӕc nostri pars optima sensus.

Juvenal.

;

A VOYAGE round the WORLD.

BOOK II.

CHAP. I.

Run from the Society Isles to the Friendly Isles, with an Account of our

Transactions there.

[1773. September.]WE cleared the reefs of Hamaneno towards ten o'clock, and steered to the W.S.W. having the islands of Raietea, Tahà, and Borabora in sight. Only one month had elapsed since our arrival at Taheitee, and yet we found ourselves recovered from the effects of a long uncomfortable cruize in cold wet climates, and during the worst of seasons; and all those who had the strongest symptoms of the scurvy at that time, were now as perfectly restored to their health as the rest. The vegetables of this delightful group of islands had, in all likelihood, principally effected our cure, especially as we left our first place of refreshment, Aitepèha, in a tolerable state of convalescence, though we had not then tasted any fresh animal food. Our prospect for the next month to come promised a continuance of health, for we carried with us between two and three hundred hogs in each ship, besides a number of fowls and some dogs, together with a great quantity of bananas, which formed a kind of orchard on our poop. It is true the want of room occasioned the death of several hogs, and the obstinacy of the old dogs in refusing to take any sustenance, deprived us of the greatest number of those animals. But we soon took an effectual method of saving our provisions by killing all the hogs which were weakened by confinement, and strewing the meat with salt. By this means it was preserved, and remained palatable and juicy without being so unwholesome as the pickled meat we brought from England, which was now so penetrated with salt, that if we attempted to sweeten it in water, we extracted all the remaining juices. The only inconvenience which the stay among these isles had brought upon our seamen, was a complaint which arose from their own intemperance, in carrying on a free connection with common women. But this, though many of them were affected with it, was fortunately of so slight a nature, that it did not, in general take them from their duty, and yielded quickly to the gentlest remedies.

Our young friend Hedeèdee, whom we had taken with us instead of the Taheitian Porèa, felt himself much affected with the sea-sickness, occasioned by the motion of the ship, to which he was not accustomed. He told us, however, as we were looking at the high peak of Borabòra, that he was born in that island, and was nearly related to O-Poonee, the great king who had conquered Tahà and Raietea. He acquainted us, at the same time, that his own name was properly Mahine, he having exchanged it for that of Hedeedee with a chief in Eimeo a custom which, as I have already observed in another place, is common in all these islands. His relation, king O-Poonee, was at present, according to his account, at Mowràa, an island which we passed in the afternoon. It consisted of a single mountain, of a conic form, rising into a sharp point; and from the reports of the inhabitants of Raietea, some of whom had frequently visited it, we had reason to conclude that its productions are perfectly similar to those of all the other isles in this group.

Our poor friend did not recover his appetite till the next afternoon, when he feasted on part of a dolphin of twenty-eight pounds weight, which had been caught by one of our seamen. We offered to have it dressed for him immediately, but he assured us it tasted much better raw; and accordingly we provided him with a bowl of sea-water, in which he dipped the morsels as in a sauce, and eat them with great relish, alternately biting into a ball of maheî, or sour bread-fruit paste, instead of bread. Before he sat down to his meal, however, he separated a little morsel of the fish and a bit of the maheî, as an offering to the Eatua or Divinity, pronouncing a few words at the same time, which we understood to be a short prayer. He performed the same ceremony two days after, [Monday 20]when he dined on a raw piece of shark. These instances served to convince us, that his countrymen have certain fixed principles of religion, and that a kind of ceremonial worship takes place among them, which they have perhaps preserved ever since their first separation from their ancestors on the continent.

[Thursday 23.]We continued our course without any event worthy of notice till the 23d, in the morning, when a low island appeared on our larboard bow. We steered towards it, and about noon found it was divided into two parts; the latitude which we observed at that time was 19° 8' south. We soon distinguished a quantity of shrubs and tufted trees upon it, over which rose a prodigious number of coco-palms. By the help of our glasses we observed that the shore was sandy, but here and there over-run with verdure, which probably was occasioned by the common bindweed of these climates ( convolvulus Brasiliensis). A reef as we apprehended, connected the two parts of the island together, which notwithstanding its agreeable appearance, seemed to be entirely uninhabited. Captain Cook gave it the name of Hervey's Isle, in honour of the present earl of Bristol. A bird which resembled a sand-piper in its flight, and note, had appeared about the ship, the day before we made this island, and might be said to have announced its proximity, but though we observed another of the same sort [Sunday 26.]on the 26th which actually settled in the rigging, yet we did not fall in with another island. We held a westerly course from Hervey's Isle, which lies in 19° 18' south latitude and 158° 54' west longitude from Greenwich, till [1773. October.][Friday 1.]the first of October when we saw land before us about two o'clock in the afternoon. In four hours time we came within two or three leagues of it, and found it of a moderate height; the hills were covered with trees, and offered a pleasing, though not magnificent prospect. At the south-west extremity we observed a small rocky islet, and to the northward a low land of greater extent. From thence we judged, that the isle before us was the same which Abel Janssen Tasman named Middleburg Isle, in 1643, and that the other to the north, was that of Amsterdam, discovered by the same navigator. We lay to [Saturday 2.]all night, and with day-break passed round the S. W. point of Middleburg Isle, and ranged its western coast. There appeared to be some low land at the bottom of the hills, which contained plantations of fine young bananas, whose vivid green leaves contrasted admirably with the different tints of various shrubberies, and with the brown colour of the coco palms, which seemed to be the effect of winter. The light was still so faint, that we distinguished several fires glimmering in the bushes, but by degrees we likewise discerned people running along the shore. The hills which were low, and not so high above the level of the sea as the Isle of Wight, were agreeably adorned with small clumps of trees scattered at some distance, and the intermediate ground appeared covered with herbage, like many parts of England. It was not long before we perceived some of the inhabitants busied in launching several canoes, and paddling towards us. We threw a rope into one of these canoes which ran up close to us, and one of the three people in her came on board, and presented a root of the intoxicating pepper-tree of the South Sea Islands, touched our noses with his like the New Zeelanders, in sign of friendship, and then sat down on the deck without speaking a word. The captain presented him with a nail, upon which he immediately held it over his own head, and pronounced fagafetai, which was probably an expression of thanksgiving. He was naked to the waist, but from thence to the knees he had a piece of cloth wrapped about him, which seemed to be manufactured much like that of Taheitee, but was covered with a brown colour, and a strong glue, which made it stiff, and fit to resist the wet. His stature was middle-sized, and his lineaments were mild and tolerably regular. His colour was much like that of the common Taheitians [113] As I shall frequently mention the inhabitants of Taheitee, and of the Society Islands, in comparison with other islanders, it will be proper to observe, that since the natives both of Taheitee and of the Society Islands, are perfectly alike in most respects, I shall indifferently call a custom Taheitian, or usual at the Society Islands, which is common to them both. Therefore, unless I expresly put these terms in contradistinction to each other, I wish to have them understood in general as synonymous. , that is, of a clear mahogany or chestnut brown; his beard was cut short or shaven, and his hair was black, in short frizzled curls, burnt as it were at the tips. He had three circular spots on each arm, about the size of a crown piece, consisting of several concentric circles of elevated points, which answered to the punctures of the Taheitians, but were not blacked; besides these, he had other black punctures on his body. A small cylinder was fixed through two holes in the lap of his ear, and his left hand wanted the little finger. He continued his silence for a considerable while, but some others, who ventured on board soon after him, were of a more communicative turn, and after having performed the ceremony of touching noses, spoke a language which was unintelligible to us at that time. In the mean while we arrived at the N. W. point of the island, where we struck soundings on a good bottom, in an open road, and let go our anchors about nine in the morning. We were presently surrounded by a number of canoes, each containing three or four people, who offered great quantities of their cloth for sale. The canoes were small, about fifteen feet long, very sharp built, and decked or covered at each extremity. Most of them had out-riggers made of poles, like the small canoes at Taheitee, but the workmanship of these boats was infinitely preferable, as they were joined together with an exactness which surprised us, and the whole surface had received an excellent polish. Their paddles had short broad blades, something like those of Taheitee, but more neatly wrought, and of better wood. They made a great deal of noise about us, every one shewing what he had to sell, and calling to some one of us, who happened to look towards them. Their language was not unpleasing, and whatever they said, was in a singing kind of tone. Many were bold enough to come on board, without expressing the least hesitation, and one of these seemed to be a chief, or a man of some quality, and was accordingly treated with a number of presents, which he severally laid on his head, when he received them, saying fagafetai every time. Our English cloth and linen he admired most, and iron wares in the next degree. His behaviour was very free and unconcerned; for he went down into the cabin, and where-ever we thought fit to conduct him. He likewise told us, upon our enquiry, that the island near which we lay at anchor, (the same which Tasman called Middleburg) was called Ea-Oowhe among his country-men; and that the other to the north (or Tasman's Amsterdam island) bore the name of Tonga-Tabboo. We consulted several of the natives, in order to have greater certainty on this point, and always received the same names in answer.

After breakfast, the captains went on shore with us and the chief, who had continued on board all that time. A bed of coral rocks surrounded the coast, towards the landing-place; but many canoes occupied the deep channels between these rocks, and a great number of inhabitants in them as well as on the shore, shouted for joy at our approach. The canoes immediately came along side the boat, and the natives threw great bales of cloth into it, without asking for any thing in return; while many of both sexes swam about perfectly naked, holding up some trifles, such as rings of tortoise-shell, fish-hooks of mother of pearl, and the like, for sale. As soon as we could make way through the throng of canoes, we approached as near as possible to the shore, and were carried to it out of our boat, for which the natives very readily offered their backs. The people thronged about us with every expression of friendship, and offered a few fruits, with a variety of arms and utensils. The cordial reception which we met with, was such as might have been expected from a people well acquainted with our good intentions, and accustomed to the transitory visits of European ships. But these kind islanders had never seen Europeans among them, and could only have heard of Tasman who visited the adjacent Amsterdam island, by imperfect tradition. Nothing was therefore more conspicuous in their whole behaviour than an open, generous disposition, free from any mean distrust. This was confirmed by the appearance of a great number of women in the croud, covered from the waist downwards, whose looks and smiles welcomed us to the shore. Mr. Hodges designed this memorable interview in an elegant picture, which has been engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. The same candour with which I have made it a rule to commend the performances of this ingenious artist, whenever they are characteristic of the objects which he meant to represent, obliges me to mention, that this piece, in which the execution of Mr. Sherwin cannot be too much admired, does not convey any adequate idea of the natives of Eaoowhe or of Tonga Tabbo. The plates which ornamented the history of captain Cook's former voyage, have been justly criticised, because they exhibited to our eyes the pleasing forms of antique figures and draperies, instead of those Indians of which we wished to form some idea. But it is also greatly to be feared, that Mr. Hodges has lost the sketches and drawings which he made from Nature in the course of the voyage, and supplied the deficiency in this case, from his own elegant ideas. The connoisseur will find Greek contours and features in this picture, which have never existed in the South Sea. He will admire an elegant flowing robe which involves the whole head and body, in an island where the women very rarely cover the shoulders and breast; and he will be struck with awe and delight by the figure of a divine old man, with a long white beard, though all the people of Ea-oowhe shave themselves with muscle-shells.

We soon left the landing place, and followed the chief, who invited us up into the country. The ground from the water's side rose somewhat steep for a few yards, above which it flattened into a beautiful green lawn, surrounded by tall trees and tufted shrubberies, and open only to the sea. At the bottom of it, which might be about one hundred yards from the landing-place, we saw a very neat well-looking house, of which the roof sloped down within two feet of the ground. We advanced across the delightful green, which was so smooth, that it put us in mind of the finest spots in England, and were entreated to sit down in the house, which was most elegantly laid out with mats of the best workmanship. In one corner of it we saw a moveable partition of wicker-work standing upright, and, from the signs of the natives collected, that it separated their bed-place. The roof, sloping down on all sides, was formed of a great number of spars and round sticks very firmly connected, and covered with a sort of matting made of banana leaves.

We were no sooner seated in the house, surrounded by a considerable number of natives, not less than a hundred, than two or three of the women welcomed us with a song, which, though exceedingly simple, had a very pleasing effect, and was highly musical when compared to the Taheitian songs. They beat time to it by snapping the second finger and thumb, and holding the three remaining fingers upright. Their voices were very sweet and mellow, and they sung in parts. When they had done they were relieved by others, who sung the same tune, and at last they joined together in chorus. A very ingenious gentleman, who was on this voyage with us, has favoured me with one of the tunes which he heard in this island, which may serve as a specimen to the musical part of my readers.

[Some music notes]

In this little specimen the music is in the minor key, (a flat third). They varied the four notes without ever going lower than A or higher than E; singing them rather slow, and sometimes ending with the chord [some music notes].

The kindness of the people was expressed in every look and gesture, and they freely offered us some coco-nuts, of which we found the liquor very palatable. We were likewise regaled with a most delicious perfume in this place, which the breeze wafted towards us. It was a considerable time before we discovered from whence it proceeded; but at last having looked at some shady trees at the back of the house, we perceived they were of the lemon tribe, and covered with beautiful branches of white flowers, which spread this fragrant smell. The natives soon brought us some of the fruits, which we knew to be of the kind called shaddocks in the West-Indies, and pomplemoses at Batavia and the adjacent East-Indian isles. Their shape was perfectly globular, their size almost as large as a child's head, and their taste extremely pleasant.

On both sides of the lawn we took notice of a fence or enclosure made of reeds, diagonally plaited in an elegant taste. A door, which consisted of several boards, and was hung on a rope instead of hinges, gave admittance into a plantation on each side. We separated, in order to examine this beautiful country, and at every step had reason to be well pleased with our discoveries. The door was so contrived as to shut after us without any assistance, and the enclosures were over-run with climbers, and especially a bind-weed, having flowers of a beautiful sky-blue. The prospect now changed into an extensive garden, where we saw a number of tufted shaddock-trees, tall coco-palms, many bananas, and a few bread-fruit trees. In the midst of this spot the path led us to a dwelling-house, like that on the lawn, surrounded by a great variety of shrubs in blossom, whose fragrance filled the air. We roamed through these bushes, and collected a variety of plants which we had never met with in the Society Isles. The inhabitants seemed to be of a more active and industrious disposition than those of Taheitee, and instead of following us in great crouds wherever we went, left us entirely by ourselves, unless we entreated them to accompany us. In that case we could venture to go with our pockets open, unless we had nails in them, upon which they set so great a value that they could not always resist the temptation. We passed through more than ten adjacent plantations or gardens, separated by enclosures, communicating with each other by means of the doors before mentioned. In each of them we commonly met with a house, of which the inhabitants were absent. Their attention to separate their property seemed to argue a higher degree of civilization than we had expected. Their arts, manufactures, and music were all more cultivated, complicated, and elegant than at the Society Islands. But, in return, the opulence, or rather luxury, of the Taheitians seemed to be much greater. We saw but few hogs and fowls here, and that great support of life, the bread-tree, appeared to be very scarce. Yams, therefore, and other roots, together with bananas, are their principal articles of diet. Their cloathing too, compared to that of Taheitee, was less plentiful, or at least not converted into such an article of luxury as at that island. Lastly, their houses, though neatly constructed, and always placed in a fragrant shrubbery, were less roomy and convenient. We made these reflections as we advanced towards the landing place, where several hundred natives were assembled; and their appearance immediately struck us with the idea, that if they did not enjoy so great a profusion of the gifts of nature as the Taheitians, those gifts were perhaps distributed to all with greater equality. We advanced among them, and were accosted with caresses by old and young, by men and women. They hugged us very heartily, and frequently kissed our hands, laying them on the breast, with the most expressive looks of affection that can be imagined. The general stature of the men was equal to our middle size, from five feet three to five feet ten inches. The proportions of the body were very fine, and the contours of the limbs extremely elegant, though something more muscular than at Taheitee, which may be owing to a greater and more constant exertion of strength in their agriculture and œconomy. Their features were extremely mild and pleasing, and differed from the Taheitian faces, in being more oblong than round; the nose sharper, and the lips rather thinner. Their hair was generally black and strongly curled, and the beard shaven or rather clipt by means of a couple of sharp muscle shells, ( mytili). The women were, in general, a few inches shorter than the men, but not so small as the lower class of women at Taheitee and the Society Isles. Their body was exquisitely proportioned down to the waist, and their hands and arms were to the full as delicate as those of the Taheitian women; but like them they had such large feet and legs as did not harmonize with the rest. Their features, though without regularity, were as agreeable as we had in general observed them at the Society Isles; but we recollected many individuals there, especially of the principal families, to which none of these could be compared. The complexion of both sexes here was the same, a light chestnut-brown, which had commonly the appearance of perfect health. That difference of colour and corpulence, by which we immediately distinguished the ranks at Taheitee, was not to be met with in this island. The chief, who had visited us on board and accompanied us to the shore, was in nothing different from the common people, not even in his dress; it was only from the obedience which was paid to this orders that we concluded his quality. The custom of puncturing the skin and blacking it, was in full force among the men, and their belly and loins were very strongly marked in configurations more compounded than those of the Taheitians. The tenderest parts of the body were not free from these punctures, the application of which, besides being very painful, must be extremely dangerous on glandulous extremities, and justly excited our astonishment.

________ et picta pandit spectacula cauda! Hor.

The women, however, were exempted from this custom of disfiguring themselves, and had only a few black dots on their hands. But besides these, both sexes had three spots on the arms, consisting of concentric circles of punctures, without any blacking, which I have mentioned before. The men in general went almost naked, having only a small bit of cloth round the loins. Some, however, wore a dress nearly resembling that of the women. This was a long piece of cloth made of bark, in the same manner as the Taheitee cloth, but afterwards painted chequer-wise, or in patterns nearly resembling our painted floor-cloths, and covered with a size, which turned the wet for a long while. This they wrapped round their waist, the men nearly about their middle, the women more immediately under the breast, and in both it commonly descended below the knees. Instead of the cloth they likewise substituted mats, extremely well wrought, in form resembling those of Taheitee, and sometimes, though rarely, covered even their shoulders and breasts with them. The men frequently wore a string round their necks, from which a mother of pearl shell hung down on the breast. The women often had loose necklaces, consisting of several strings of small shells, intermixed with seeds, teeth of fishes, and in the middle of all the round operculum, or cover of a shell, as large as a crown-piece. Both their ears were perforated, and sometimes with two holes, and a little cylinder cut out of tortoise-shell or bone, was stuck through both the holes. Sometimes these cylinders were only of reed, filled with a red solid substance, painted and lacquered with different colours in regular compartments. The most singular circumstance which we observed among these people was, that many of them wanted the little finger on one and sometimes on both hands; the differences of sex or age did not exempt them from this amputation; for even amongst the few children, whom we saw running about naked, the greater part had already suffered this loss. Only a few grown people, who had preserved both their little fingers, were an exception to the general rule. We immediately conjectured that the death of a near relation or friend might require these strange mutilations, in the same manner as is customary among the Hottentots, in Africa [114] See Kolben's account of the Cape of Good Hope; also the Recherches Philosophiques fur les Americains, par M. Pauw, vol. II, p.224, 229. ; the Guaranos, in Paraguay; and the Californians; and our enquiries, though unsuccessful at first, afterwards confirmed the conjecture. Another singularity, which we observed to be very general among these people, was a round spot on each cheek-bone, which appeared to have been burnt or blistered. Some had it quite recent, in others it was covered with a scurf, and many had a very slight mark of its former existence. We could never learn how and for what purpose it was made; but we supposed it could only be used like the Japanese moxa, as a remedy against various complaints.

Notwithstanding the engaging manners of the natives, we foreshaw that we should make but a very short stay among them, because our captains could not obtain refreshments in any considerable quantity; which might be owing not so much to their scarcity upon the island, as to the difficulty of making our goods current for such valuable articles, when they could obtain them in exchange for arms and utensils. They had brought indeed a few yams, bananas, coco-nuts, and shaddocks for sale, but they soon dropt that branch of trade. Our people purchased an incredible number of fish hooks made of mother of pearl, barbed with tortoise-shell, but in shape exactly resembling the Taheitee fish-hooks, called witte-witte [115] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 218. Also Parkinson's Journal, p. 77, and Tab. XIII. fig. 25. ; some of which were near seven inches long. They likewise bought their shells, which hung on the breast, their necklaces, bracelets of mother of pearl, and cylindrical sticks for the ear. They had the neatest ornamental combs that can be imagined, consisting of a number of little flat sticks about five inches long, of a yellow wood like box, most firmly and elegantly connected together at the bottom by a tissue of the fibres of coco-nut, some of which were of their natural colour, and others dyed black. These fibres were likewise employed in making a great variety of baskets, wrought with regular compartments of two colours, brown and black, or sometimes all brown, and ornamented with rows of round flat beads, which were made by cutting pieces of shells into that shape. The taste and the workmanship of these baskets were elegant in the highest degree, and varied into different forms and patterns. Those little stools, which serve as pillows for the head, were much more frequent here than at Taheitee; flattish bowls, in which they place their meat, and spatulas with which they mix up the bread-fruit paste, were likewise in great abundance, and made of the club-wood ( casuarina equistifeolia), which had this name from supplying all the islanders in the South Sea with weapons. The clubs of the people of this isle, were of an infinite variety of shapes, and many of them so ponderous that we could scarce manage them with one hand; the most common form was quadrangular, so as to make a rhomboid at the broad end, and gradually tapering into a round handle at the other. But many were spatulated, flattish, and pointed: some had long handles and a blade which resembled the blade of a fleam; others were crooked, knobbed, &c. But by far the greatest part were carved all over in many chequered patterns, which seemed to have required a long space of time, and incredible patience, especially when we consider, that a sharp stone, or a piece of coral, are the only tools which the natives can employ in this kind of work. All the different compartments were wrought and divided with a regularity which quite surprised us, and the whole surface of the plain clubs was as highly polished, as if our best workmen had made them with the best instruments. Besides clubs, they had spears of the same wood, which were sometimes plain, sharp-pointed sticks, and sometimes barbed with a sting-ray's tail. They had likewise bows and arrows, of a peculiar construction. The bow which was six feet long, was about the thickness of a little finger, and when slack, formed a slight curve. Its convex part was channelled with a single deep groove, in which the bow string was lodged, and which was likewise big enough sometimes to contain the arrow made of reed, near six feet long, and pointed with hard wood. When the bow was to be bent, instead of drawing it so as to encrease the natural curvature, they drew it the contrary way, made it perfectly strait, and then formed the curve on the other side. The bow-string by this means never needed to be tense, as the arrow received sufficient moment by changing the natural bent of the bow; the recoil of which was never violent enough to hurt the arm. Our seamen, unacquainted with the nature of these weapons, broke several of them by drawing them like other bows. The immense quantity of arms belonging to the natives, corresponded very ill with the pacific disposition, which had strongly shone through their whole behaviour towards us, and which still manifested itself in their readiness to dispose of them. It is probable that they have sometimes quarrels amongst themselves, or wage war with the neighbouring islands, but we could by no means discover any thing from their conversation or signs, which might have served to throw a light on this subject. The several articles above enumerated, together with all their sorts of cloth, their elegant mats, which for workmanship and variety excelled even those of Taheitee, and a great many other trifles too tedious to mention, they brought to sell, and with great eagerness exchanged for small nails, and sometimes for beads. But in respect of the latter their taste was different from that of the Taheitians; for the latter always chose those that were transparent, but the people of Ea-oowhe would take no other than black opaque beads, with red, blue, and white stripes. We traded with them till dinner-time, and then re-embarked in order to return on board the ships; but were obliged to sit down contented with the loss of a grapnel, which the natives had contrived to steal almost as soon as it was let down into the water. Their kind looks and acclamations followed us till we returned on board, where a number of them traded in their canoes with the same sorts of goods which we had purchased on shore. We saw several persons among them afflicted with leprous complaints, in some of which the disorder had risen to a high degree of virulence; one man in particular had his whole back and shoulders covered with a large cancerous ulcer, which was perfectly livid within, and of a bright yellow all round the edges. A woman was likewise unfortunate enough to have all her face destroyed by it in the most shocking manner; there was only a hole left in the place of her nose; her cheeks were swelled up and continually oozing out a purulent matter; and her eyes seemed ready to fall out of her head, being bloody and sore. These were some of the most miserable objects I recollect ever to have seen; and yet they seemed to be quite unconcerned about their misfortunes, traded as briskly as any of the rest, and what was most nauseous, had provisions to sell.

After dinner Dr. Sparrman remained on board with me, in order to arrange our acquisitions of the morning, and my father again accompanied the captains to the shore, with a view to collect a fresh supply. They returned about sun-set, and my father gave the following account of this excursion.

" At the landing-place the natives welcomed us with shouts as in the morning, and the croud being as numerous as ever, the trade was carried on very briskly, but provisions were scarce, and shaddocks in particular not at all to be had, as the season was not yet sufficiently advanced. Mr. Hodges, myself, and one servant, left the trading place with two of the natives, whom we engaged to become our guides in case of necessity, and walked up the hill to view the interior part of the country. Our walk lay through a number of rich plantations or gardens, enclosed as before mentioned with fences of reeds, or with quick-hedges of the beautiful coral flower, ( erythrina corallodendron). Beyond these we entered into a lane between two enclosures, and observed bananas and yams planted in rows on both sides, with as much order and regularity as we employ in our agriculture. This lane opened into a fine extensive plain, covered with rich grasses. Having crossed it, we met with a most delightful walk about a mile in length, formed of four rows of coco-nut trees, which ended in another lane between plantations of great regularity, surrounded by shaddocks and other trees. It led through a cultivated valley to a spot where several paths crossed each other or met in one. Here we saw a fine lawn covered with a delicate green tuf, and surrounded by large shady trees on all sides. In one corner of it there was a house, which was empty at present, its inhabitants being probably by the water's side. Mr. Hodges sat down to draw this delightful spot. We breathed the most delicious air in the world, fraught with odours which might have revived a dying man; the sea-breeze played with our hair and gently cooled us; a number of small birds twittered on all sides, and many amorous doves cooed harmoniously in the deepest shade of the tree under which we were seated. The tree was remarkable for its roots, which came out of the stem near eight feet above the ground, and for its pods of more than a yard long, and two or three inches broad. This secluded spot, so rich in the best productions of nature, where we sat solitary with no other human being besides our two natives, struck us with the idea of enchanted ground, which being the creation of our own gay fancy, is commonly adorned with all possible beauties at once. In fact, there could not have been a more desirable spot for a little place of retirement, according to the elegant imagination of Horace, if it had only been supplied with a crystal fountain or a little murmuring rill! But water is unfortunately the only blessing denied this charming little island. To the left of this spot we discovered a shady walk, that brought us to another grassy lawn, at the bottom of which we perceived a little mount with two huts upon it. A number of reeds stuck into the ground, at the distance of one foot asunder, encompassed this rising, and several casuarinas, with their slender branches and thread-like leaves, were planted before it. The natives, whom we had engaged to accompany us, would not approach this mount; but we advanced and looked into the huts, though with great difficulty, because the bottom of the roof was not above a span from the ground. We found a corse in one of these huts, which had been lately deposited; but the other was empty. Thus the casuarina or club-wood ( tòa), here, as in the Society Islands, pointed out the repositories of the dead. Its dull brownish-green colour, and its long spreading branches, where the leaves are thinly scattered and hang weeping down, certainly become these melancholy places to the full as well as the funereal cypress. It is therefore probable that the same train of ideas, which consecrated the latter in one part of the world to shade the tombs, might fix upon the former in these regions for a similar purpose. The mount on which the huts were placed was formed of small pieces of coral rock, like gravel, accumulated without any particular order. From thence we proceeded a little farther, and still found the same elegant plantations and the same kind of houses in the middle as before. Our natives conducted us through one of them, where they entreated us to sit down, and procured some coco nuts, which proved extremely refreshing. At our return we found our boats just ready to put off, and embarked with them immediately. We had only seen a few of the natives on our walk, who passed unconcernedly by us towards the place were the captains traded; and I believe we should have been entirely left to ourselves if we had not engaged two of them to become our conductors. The discharge of our guns, and their effect, neither excited their admiration nor their fear; but they always appeared kind and courteous towards us. Their women were, in general, reserved, and turned with disgust from the immodest behaviour of ungovernable seamen, some of them however, appeared to be of easy virtue, and beckoned to our people with lascivious gestures."

The next morning early the captain went on shore with us, and presented the chief with a variety of garden seeds, explaining by signs how useful they would prove to him. This was a yet our only mode of conversation, though we had picked up a number of words, which, by the help of the principles of universal grammar, and the idea of dialects, we easily perceived had a great affinity with the language spoken at Taheitee and the Society Isles. O-Mai and Mahine (or O-Hedeède), the two natives of Raietea and Borabora who embarked with us, at first declared that the language was totally new and unintelligible to them; however, when we explained to them the affinity of several words, they presently caught the peculiar modification of this dialect, and conversed much better with the natives than we could have done after a long intercourse with them. They were extremely well pleased with this country, but soon perceived its defects, and told us there was but scanty provision of bread-fruit, few hogs and fowls, and no dogs, which was really the case. In return, however, they liked the abundance of sugar-canes and of intoxicating pepper, of which the drink had been offered to captain Cook.

As soon as the captains had delivered their present, they returned to the ships, and the chief came on board with us. Our anchor was weighed, our sails were spread to the wind, and we forsook this happy island when he had scarce discovered its beauties. The chief, after selling a number of fish-hooks for nails and beads, hailed one of the canoes which were passing by, and left us with looks which spoke his friendly, open disposition.

We now sailed along the western shore of Tasman's Amsterdam island, which the natives called Tonga-Tabboo and found it a very low flat land, compared with that which we had left. The middle of this island is nearly in 21° 11'S. latitude, and 175° W. longitude. Its highest elevation above the level of the sea, appeared to the eye never to exceed six or seven yards perpendicular. On the other hand, its extent was much more considerable than that of Ea-oowhe, and by the help of our spying-glasses, we discovered the same regular plantations which we had so much admired there, and saw the shores crouded with inhabitants, who gazed at us, probably with as much attention as we bestowed upon them. When we were about half way between both islands, or nearly three leagues from each, we were met by several canoes full of men, who attempted to come along-side, but as we happened to be too far to windward, they could only fetch the Adventure, where they came on board.

In the afternoon we approached the northernmost end of the island, and perceived some small isles connected by reefs to the eastward. Their situation and that of the shoal to the north-west, where the sea broke with great violence, convinced us that we were now arrived at the very place where Tasman ancored in 1643, and which he called Van Diemen's Road. Here we dropped an anchor upon a rocky bank, and were immediately surrounded with numbers of the natives, some in canoes, and some swimming, though we lay about a quarter of a mile from the shore. We found them to be of the same nation which inhabited Ea-oowhe, and their mercantile turn prompted them to bring an immense quantity of their cloth, mats, nets, utensils, arms, and ornaments, which they eagerly exchanged for beads and nails. The ships were no sooner moored, than a prohibition was made against purchasing curiosities, and the natives were told to bring coco-nuts, bread-fruit, yams, and bananas, as well as hogs and fowls, of which we had already learnt the names. We purchased a small quantity of provisions the same evening, to give an example to the rest of the inhabitants, who were obliged to take their merchandize on shore again. The good effects of this step appeared the next morning, when the natives returned from shore at day-break, and had loaded their canoes with vegetables and fowls. Many of them came on board as freely as if we had been old acquaintances, and did not appear to have the least idea of distrust. One of them, a well made man, with a handsome open countenance, seemed to have some authority among them, like the chief whom we had seen on Ea-oowhe. He descended into the cabin, acquainted us that his name was Attahha, and received several presents, among which he sat a high value on iron, and on red European broad-cloth. After breakfast he went on shore with us in the pinnace. A coral reef surrounded the coast, at the distance of a musket-shot, and a single narrow pass admitted us within it, were we found the water so full of rocks and so shallow, that we were obliged to be carried out of the boat. A party of the marines were posted on the beach in case of danger, to protect the captain's clerk, who traded for provisions. The natives did not express either surprize or dislike at this proceeding, perhaps because they were unacquainted with its meaning. They received us with acclamations of joy as at Ea-oowhe, and desired us to sit down with them on the rocks along shore, which consisted of coral, and were covered with shell sand. We purchased several beautiful parroquets, pigeons, and doves, which they brought to us perfectly tame; and our young Borabora-man Mahine (or Hedèedee) traded with great eagerness for ornaments made of bright red feathers, which he assured us had an extraordinary value at Taheitee and the Society Islands. Here they were commonly pasted to aprons used in their dances, and made of the fibres of coco-nut, or fixed upon banana leaves, forming rhomboidal frontlets or diadems, &c. With a degree of extasy which gave the greatest weight to his assertion, he shewed us that a little piece of feathered-work, as broad as two or three fingers, would purchase the largest hog in his island. Both this youth and O-Mai were much pleased with the inhabitants of these islands, and began to understand their language tolerably well.

We left the beach after the first acquaintance with the natives, and ascended a few feet into a wild forest consisting of tall trees, intermixed with shrubberies. This wood though narrow, being in many places not above one hundred yards wide, was continued along the shore of Van Diemen's road, being more or less open in various parts. Beyond it the whole island was perfectly level. We walked across a piece of uncultivated land, about five hundred yards wide, which adjoined to the wood. Part of it appeared to have been planted with yams, but the rest was full of grass, and had a little swamp in the middle, where the purple water-hen, or poule sultane, resided in great numbers. As soon as we left this, we entered into a lane about six feet wide, between two fences of reed, which enclosed extensive plantations on each side. Here we met many of the natives, who were travelling to the beach with loads of provisions, and courteously bowed their heads as they passed by us in sign of friendship, generally pronouncing some monosyllable or other, which seemed to correspond to the Taheitian tayo. The enclosures, plantations, and houses were exactly in the same style as at Ea-oowhe, and the people had never failed to plant odoriferous shrubs round their dwellings. The mulberry, of which the bark is manufactured into cloth, and the bread-tree, were more scarce than at the Society Isles, and the apple of those islands was entirely unknown, but the shaddock well supplied its place. The season of spring, which revived the face of all nature, adorning every plant with blossoms, and inspiring with joyful songs the feathered tribe, doubtless contributed in a great measure to make every object pleasing in our eyes. But the industry and elegance of the natives, which they displayed in planting every piece of ground to the greatest advantage, as well as in the neatness and regularity of all their works, demanded our admiration, whilst it gave us room to suppose, that they enjoyed a considerable degree of happiness.

One of the lanes between the enclosures led us to a little grove, which we admired for its irregularity. An immense casuarina tree far out-topped the rest, and its branches were loaded with a vast number of blackish creatures, which we took for crows at a distance, but which proved to be bats when we came nearer. They clung to the twigs, by the hooked claws, which are at the extremity of their webbed fingers and toes; sometimes they hung with the head downwards, and sometimes the reverse. We shot at them, and brought down six or eight at once, besides wounding several others which held fast on the tree. They were of the kind which is commonly called the vampyre [116] La Rougette, of M. de Buffon. Vampyrus of Linné, and Pennant. , and measured from three to four feet between the expanded wings. A great number of them were disturbed at our firing, and flew from the tree very heavily, uttering a shrill piping note; some likewise arrived from remote parts at intervals to the tree, but the greatest number remained in their position, and probably go out to feed only by night. As they live chiefly upon fruit, it is likely that they commit great depredations in the orchards of the natives, some of whom being present when we fired, seemed very well pleased with the death of their enemies. We had seen some of them who had caught these bats alive, and placed them in a cage of wickerwork very ingeniously contrived, with an entrance like that of a fish-basket, where the animal could easily be put in, but could not come out again. They likewise assured us the bats were very mordacious, for which purpose they seemed indeed to be well provided with large sharp teeth.

We had already observed at Taheitee, at the Society Islands, and even at Ea-oowhe, that wherever we met with a casuarina, a burying-place was at hand. Therefore, at sight of this venerable tree, which was hung with ill-omened creatures, we immediately conjectured that it would lead us to a cemetery or place of worship, and the event shewed that we were not mistaken. We found a beautiful green lawn, enclosed on all sides by shady bushes and trees, amongst which casuarinas, pandangs, and wild sago-palms appeared with their various tints of green. A row of Barringtonias, as big as the loftiest oaks, formed one side of it, and strewed it with their large blushing flowers. At the upper end of it, there was a rising two or three feet high, set out with coral-stones cut square. The area above was covered with a green sod, like the rest of the lawn. Two steps, likewise of coral rock, led up to this part, in the midst of which a house was situated, exactly like that which we saw at Ea-oowhe. Its length was about twenty, the breadth fifteen, and the height of the ridge ten feet. The roof descended sloping nearly to the ground, and was made of banana leaves. We entered into this building with only one of the natives, the rest keeping at some distance. We found the floor covered with broken pieces of white coral rock, and in one corner a heap of blackish pebbles, about eight feet long, which was elevated a foot above the white stones. The native told us that a man lay buried there, and pointing to the place where his little finger had formerly been cut away, he plainly signified that when his maduas or parents [117] Perhaps any relations in the ascending line. died, they mutilated their hands. We found two pieces of wood a foot long, carved into some resemblance of the human figure, like those which are called e-tee at Taheitee, but they were treated in the same manner, that is without the least degree of respect or veneration, being frequently trod upon and kicked about. These burying-places, which are called a-Fayetooca in the language of the country, are always delightfully situated on green lawns, and surrounded withe the finest groves. That which I have here described, was drawn by Mr. Hodges, and an exact representation of it is inserted in captain Cook's own account of this voyage.

We continued our walk through the plantations, and met with very few inhabitants, they being almost all gone towards the trading-place. Those we saw passed by us, or continued their occupations without stopping on our account. Neither curiosity, nor distrust and jealousy excited them to prohibit our farther progress; on the contrary, they always spoke in a kind tone to us, which sufficiently characterized their disposition. We looked into many of the houses and found them empty, but always laid out with mats, and delightfully situated among odoriferous shrubs. Sometimes they were separated from the plantations by a little fence, through which a door, like those of Ea‑oowhe, gave admittance, which could be shut on the inside. In that case only the area, which this fence enclosed around the hut, was planted with the odoriferous grove, which is so much in request with the natives. A walk of three miles brought us to the eastern shore of the island, where it forms a deep angle, which Tasman called Maria Bay. Where we fell in with it, the ground sloped imperceptibly into a sandy beach; but as we walked along towards the north point, we found it rose perpendicularly, and in some places it was excavated and overhanging. It consisted, however, entirely of coral, which is a strong proof of some great change on our globe, as this rock can only be formed under water. Whether it was left bare by a gradual diminution of the sea, or perhaps by a more violent revolution which our earth may formerly have suffered, I shall not venture to determine. So much, however, may be assumed as a certainty, that if we suppose a gradual diminution of the sea, at the rate which they pretend to have observed in Sweden [118] See the Memoirs of the Swedish Academy of Sciences at Stockholm. , the emersion of this island must be of so modern date, that it is matter of astonishment how it came to be covered with soil, herbage, and forests: so well stocked with inhabitants, and so regularly adorned as we really found it. We picked up a quantity of shells at the foot of the steep rock, where we sometimes waded in water to the knees upon a reef, on account of the flood tide which was advancing. We likewise met with several natives returning from the trading-place, who sold us a number of fish-hooks and ornaments, a fish-net made like our casting-nets, knit of very firm though slender threads, some mats and pieces of cloth. We likewise purchased of them an apron, consisting of many wheels or stars of plaited coco-nut fibres, about three or four inches in diameter, cohering together by the projecting points, and ornamented with small red feathers and beads cut out of shells. Finding that the water encreased too fast upon us, we looked out for an ascent to the top of the rock, and having with some difficulty found one, we re-entered the plantations, where we observed the weeds rooted out with great care and laid in heaps to dry. After a long walk, during which we missed our way, and engaged one of the natives to become our guide, we entered a long narrow lane between two fences, which led us directly to the Fayetòoca or burying-place we had left before. Here we found captains Cook and Furneaux, and Mr. Hodges, with a great number of natives, seated on the fine lawn. They were in conversation with an old blear-eyed man, who had a good deal of weight among the rest of the people, and was always accompanied by a number of them wherever he went. We were told that he had conducted our gentlemen to two fayetòocas, and had pronounced a solemn speech or prayer, with his face directed to the building, but at times turning to captain Cook, and addressing the words to him, in a questioning tone. In these moments he always made a short pause, as if he expected an answer, and seeing a nod ensue, proceeded with his speech. Sometimes, however, his memory seemed to fail, upon which he was prompted by another man who sat near him. From this ceremony, and the place where it was performed, we conjectured that he was a priest. However, as far as we could see into their religious notions, it did not appear that they practised any kind of idolatry; neither did they seem to have any particular veneration for birds like the Taheitians, but to worship a supreme invisible Being. What may have induced them, as well as the people of Taheitee and the Society Isles, to unite their repositories of the dead and their places of worship in one, remains in obscurity. The religious tenets of a people are the last things which strangers become acquainted with, whose knowledge of the language is commonly too imperfect. Besides this, the dialect of the church frequently differs from the common dialect, and thus religion is veiled in mysteries, especially where there are priests to take advantage of the credulity of mankind.

From this place we returned to the sea shore, where a brisk trade for vegetables, fowls, and hogs was carried on. Here we bought a large flat shield or breast-plate, of a roundish bone, white and polished like ivory, about eighteen inches in diameter, which appeared to have belonged to an animal of the cetaceous tribe. We likewise found a new musical instrument, consisting of eight, nine, or ten slender reeds, about nine inches long, joined to each other by some fibres of coco-nut core. The length of its reeds seldom varied much, and the long and short ones were placed promiscuously; a notch was formed at the top of each, and the method of playing was only to slide the instrument backwards and forwards along the lips. It had commonly not above four or five different notes, and we never met with one which included a whole octave. Its resemblance to the syrinx, or Pan's flute of the civilized Greeks, dignified it much more than any music which it contained. From the method of playing it, the lovers of music will easily conceive that this divine art is entirely in its infancy among the inhabitants. The vocal part, which is the same as we had already observed it at Ea-oowhe, is very far from being unharmonious, and the women beat time to it by snapping their fingers very exactly; but its whole extent is only of four notes, and therefore cannot admit of any variety. They had likewise a flute of a bamboo-reed, nearly of the thickness of a German flute, which they played with the nostrils, like the Taheitians. They commonly had ornamented it with various little figures, burnt in, and pierced four or five holes in it, whereas the Taheitian flute had but three in all. The method of ornamenting wood by burning figures into it, was frequently observed in their bowls and various other utensils.

It was near sun-set when we returned on board with our collection, and found the vessels still surrounded by many canoes, and the natives swimming about extremely vociferous. Among them were a considerable number of women, who wantoned in the water like amphibious creatures, and were easily persuaded to come on board, perfectly naked, without professing greater chastity than the common women at Taheitee, and the Society Isles. Our seamen took advantage of their disposition, and once more offered to our eyes a scene worthy of the Cyprian temples. A shirt, a small piece of cloth, nay a few beads, were sometimes sufficient temptations, for which some of the women of Tonga-Tabboo, prostituted themselves without any sense of shame. This lubricity was, however, very far from being general, and we had reason to believe that not a single married woman was guilty of infidelity. If we had been acquainted with the distinction of ranks as at Taheitee, it is highly probable, that we should have observed no other prostitutes than such as belonged to the lowest class of people. Still it remains an unaccountable singularity in the character of the nations of this part of our globe, that they suffer any of their unmarried women to admit the promiscuous embraces of a multitude of lovers. Can they imagine, that after giving such an unlimited course to the impulses of nature, they will make better wives, than the innocent and the chaste? But it is in vain that we endeavour to find reasons for the arbitrary whims of mankind. Their opinions in respect of the sex in particular, have been infinitely various in all ages and countries. In some parts of India, no man of consequence will condescend to marry a virgin; in Europe she who has lost that character is universally rejected. Turks, Arabs, Tartars, and Russians are jealous even of an imaginary characteristic of virginity, which the native of Malabar bestows upon his Idol.

None of these women ventured to stay on board after sun set, but returned to the shore to pass the night, like the greater part of the inhabitants, under the shade of the wild wood which lined the coast. There they lighted numerous fires, and were heard conversing during the greatest part of the night. It seems their eagerness to continue the trade with us, would not permit them to return to their dwellings, which were probably situated in the remotest part of the island. Our goods were in great repute with them. Nails, which the natives commonly hung on a string round the neck, or stuck through the ear, were very current for fowls, and smaller ones for bunches of bananas, and coco-nuts. Their fowls were the largest we had ever seen, and extremely well-tasted. Their plumage was commonly very glossy, and beautifully coloured with red and gold. Our sailors bought numbers of them, in order to enjoy the barbarous amusement of seeing them fight. From the time of our leaving Huahine, they had daily followed the cruel occupation of tormenting these poor birds, by trimming their wings, and incensing them against each other. They had so well succeeded with those of Huahine, that some of them fought with the most desperate fury of true game-cocks; but they were well disappointed with those which they purchased at Tonga-Tabboo, and as they could not make them fight, they were forced to eat them in revenge.

[Tuesday 5.]Early the next morning, the captain's friend Attahha or Attagha (see p.447.) came on board in one of the first canoes, and breakfasted with us. He was drest in mats, one of which, on account of the coolness of the morning, he had drawn over his shoulders. He resembled all other uncivilized people in the circumstance that his attention could not be fixed to one object for any space of time, and it was difficult to prevail on him to sit still, whilst Mr. Hodges drew his portrait. An excellent print, executed by Mr. Sherwin, has been made from his drawing, which expresses the countenance of this chief, and the mild character of the whole nation, better than any description. It is inserted in captain Cook's account of this voyage, and represents Attahha in the action of thanksgiving, laying a nail on his head, which he had received as a present. After breakfast, the captains and my father prepared to return to the shore with him; but just as he was going out of the cabin, he happened to see a Taheitian dog running about the deck; at this sight he could not conceal his joy, but clapped his hands on his breast, and turning to the captain, repeated the word goorree [119] Ooree signifies a dog at Taheitee; and ghooree at New Zeeland. near twenty times. We were much surprised to hear that he knew the name of an animal which did not exist in his country, and made him a present of one of each sex, with which he went on shore in an extasy of joy. That the name of dogs should be familiar to a people, who are not possessed of them, seems to prove either that this knowledge has been propagated by tradition from their ancestors, who migrated hither from other islands, and from the continent; or that they have had dogs upon their island, of which the race, by some accident, is become extinct; or lastly, that they still have an intercourse with other islands where these animals exist.

I remained on board all this day, to arrange the collection of plants and birds which we had made upon our first excursion, and which was far from despicable, considering the small size of the island. The natives continued to croud about our vessels in a number of canoes, whilst many were swimming to and from the shore, who were probably not rich enough to possess a canoe. These embarkations were of different construction. The common small trading-canoes were sharp-bottomed, and ended in a sharp edge at each extremity, which was covered with a board or deck, because their narrow form frequently exposed these parts to an entire submersion, which would have filled them with water without this precaution. They commonly had a slight out-rigger or balancer, made of a few poles, to prevent their oversetting. The body of the canoe consisted of several planks, of a hard brown wood, sewed together with strings made of the fibrous coco-nut core, and so artfully joined that they appeared to be remarkably tight. The Taheitians simply bore holes in each plank, through which they pass their strings; but by this means their canoes are always leaky. At Tongo-Tabboo they dub the inside of the plank in such a manner as to leave a projecting lift or rim close to the edge, and through this they pass their threads. Along the deck or narrow board at each extremity are placed seven or eight knobs, which seem to be an imitation of the little fins, ( pinnulœ spuriœ) on the belly of bonitos, albecores, or mackarels; and I cannot but conjecture that the natives have taken these swift fishes for their models in the construction of their boats. Though these canoes are commonly fifteen or eighteen feet long, yet they are as neatly and smoothly polished as our best cabinet-work, which must appear the more surprising when we consider that the tools of the natives are only wretched bits of coral, and rasps made of the skins of rays. Their paddles were equally well polished, of the same wood as the canoe, and had short rhomboidal broad blades, like those of Taheitee. The other sort of canoes were constructed for sailing, and persons skilled in nautical matters acknowledge that they were admirably well adapted for this purpose. We saw one of them in Maria Bay, consisting of two joined together, of which the planks were sewed in the same manner as in the common canoe; but they were covered all over, and had a kind of elevated stage or platform, like the Taheitian war-canoes [120] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 221. . Some of them may carry one hundred and fifty men; and their sails, which are latine, are made of strong mats, in which the rude figure of a tortoise or a cock, &c. is sometimes represented [121] The figure of a canoe in Schouten's voyage, gives a very good idea of one of the sailing-boats of Tonga-Tabboo. See Dalrymple's Collection, vol. II. pag, 17, 18. . As a farther detail would be tedious to most readers, and instructive only to mariners, I omit it in this place, and refer those who wish to be better acquainted with the subject to the accurate figures with which Mr. Hodges has ornamented captain Cook's account of this voyage. I shall only observe, that it appears probably from the good construction of the sailing-boats, that the inhabitants of these islands are more experienced mariners than those of Taheitee and the Society Isles.

Among the great numbers of people who surrounded our ships, we observed several whose hair seemed to be burnt at the ends, and were strewed with a white powder. Upon examination we found that this powder was nothing else than lime, made of shells or coral, which had corroded or burnt the hair. The taste of powdering was at its height in this island. We observed a man who had employed a blue powder, and many persons of both sexes who wore an orange powder, made of turmerick. St. Jerom, who preached against the vanities of the age, very seriously reprehends a similar custom in the Roman ladies: " Ne irrufet crines, et anticipet sibi ignes Gehènnœ!" Thus, by an admirable similarity of follies, the modes of the former inhabitants of Europe are in full force among the modern antipodes; and our insipid beaux, whose only pride is the invention of a new fashion, are forced to share that slender honour with the uncivilized natives of an isle in the South Seas.

My father did not return from his excursion till the evening, having proceeded a considerable way towards the south end of the island. At noon a smart shower had obliged him to retire into a plantation and to take shelter in a house. Fortunately for him the owner of this cottage was at home, and immediately invited him to sit down on the clean mats which covered the floor, whilst he went to provide some refreshments. In a few moments he brought several coco-nuts, and having opened his oven under ground, took out some bananas and fishes, wrapped in leaves, which were perfectly well done and delicious to the taste. The manner of cooking provisions is therefore exactly the same as at Taheitee; nor are the natives less inclinable to acts of hospitality and benevolence, though these virtues were not so frequently exercised towards us, because we commonly found the country quite deserted, the inhabitants being drawn together towards our trading-place. The hospitable man was rewarded with nails and beads, with which he performed the fagafetai, by laying them on his head, and accompanied my father back to the beach, carefully carrying a number of spears and clubs for him, which he had purchased on the road.

[Wednesd. 6.]The harmless disposition of these good people could not secure them against those misfortunes, which are too often attendant upon all voyages of discovery. Our goods tempted them at least as much as they had tempted the Taheitians, and they were consequently equally disposed to pilfer. The captains had not been long on shore the next day, when one of the natives took an opportunity of stealing a jacket out of our boat. In a few moments no less than seven shot were fired, without the captain's orders, though in his presence, at the thief, who first dived in the water, and at last ran into the croud, by which means several innocent people were wounded. Notwithstanding this severity, the good-nature of the people was such, that they did not forsake the trading-place, or take umbrage at our proceeding, but heard with unconcern the balls whistling about their ears. A few hours afterwards, one of them was equally nimble on board our ship, and luckily slipping into the master's cabin stole from thence several mathematical books, a sword, a ruler, and a number of trifles of which he could never make the least use. He was seen making his escape in a canoe, and a boat being dispatched after him, he threw all the stolen effects overboard. These were picked up by another of our boats, whilst the first continued in the pursuit of the thief. Our men fired a musket into the stern of his canoe, upon which he and some others with him jumped into the sea. The thief was still hunted with incredible eagerness, but displayed a most wonderful agility, diving several times under the boat, and once unshipping the rudder. At last one of our people darted the boat-hook at him, and catching him under the ribs, dragged him into the boat; but he watched his opportunity, and notwithstanding his loss of blood, leaped into the sea again, and escaped to some canoes, which came from the shore to his assistance. It is remarkable that even such a disposition for cruelty, as had been displayed in the pursuit of this poor wretch, did not deprive us of the confidence and affection of his country-men. The captains brought Attagha and another chief on board with them to dinner, and the trade was carried on as quietly as if nothing had happened. The chief who came with Attagha appeared to be of a superior rank, because the latter, who used to sit at table with us on former occasions, now retreated a few steps, sat down on the floor, and could not be prevailed upon to eat in his sight. He was a blear-eyed, elderly man, and having a great influence on the people in the canoes, was called the admiral by our sea-men. His dress did not in the least indicate his superior dignity, probably because these islanders are little acquainted with the refinements of luxury, though on the other hand they seem to behave with great submission to their men of rank, directly contrary to what we had observed at the Society Isles. The respect which Attagha paid to the other chief, was however trifling in comparison of that which we heard of on shore after dinner. Here we found a well-looking middle-aged man, sitting on the ground at the trading-place, and all the croud forming a circle about him. Some of our sportsmen acquainted us, that they had met with him near Maria Bay, where the other natives passing by had prostrated themselves on the ground before him, kissed his feet, and put them on their necks. Upon enquiry, they had been repeatedly told, that he was the chief of the whole island, in the same manner as Cookee ( captain Cook) was chief of our ships, and that they called him Ko-Haghee-too-Fallango [122] Ko is the article in these Islands and at New Zeeland, which answers to the Taheitian O or E. . Whether this was his name or his title I cannot determine, as we never heard it mentioned again by the natives; but they all agreed in telling us, that he was their [123] The same word in the Taheitee dialect is pronounced Aree. Areeghee or king. They added that his name was Latoo-Nipooroo, of which we concluded that the former part (Latoo) was a title, it being same which Schouten and Le Maire, the Dutch navigators in the year 1616, found at the Cocos, Traytors, and Horne islands, which are situated in this neighbourhood, only a few degrees to the northward [124] See Dalrymple's Historical Collection of Voyages and Discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean , 2 vols. quarto, 1771. London. Vol. II. p. 27, 28, &c. . We were confirmed in this opinion by the great correspondence of the vocabularies, which these intelligent seamen have left us, with the language which was spoken at Tonga-Tabboo, and still more so by the entire similarity in the behaviour and customs of these islanders. The captains walked up to the Latoo, and made him a number of presents, which he received with so much gravity and seeming indifference, as bordered upon stupidity. Amongst other things they put a shirt on him, with a great deal of trouble, because his behaviour was most aukwardly passive. He did not return any thanks for the presents which he received, till an old woman sitting behind him, had repeatedly excited him to express his gratitude. Upon this he held each separate article over his head, and pronounced the word fagafetai, like the meanest of his subjects. The priest, who had led our captains to the places of worship, on the first day after our arrival, was seated in the same circle, and drank vast quantities of the intoxicating pepper-water [125] Called awa at Taheitèe, and kawa at Tonga-Tabboo, and Horne Island. , which was served in little square cups made of banana-leaves curiously folded. At his desire, we were very politely presented with this dainty beverage, and in pure civility tasted of it. It had a nauseous insipid taste, which was afterwards followed by a strong pungency, and its colour was somewhat milky. The holy man took such large and frequent draughts of this stuff every evening, as to become perfectly intoxicated. No wonder then that his memory failed him, when he was at prayer (see p. 454.) that his whole habit of body was lean and scabby, his face wrinkled, and his eyes red, and " purging thick amber [126] Shakespeare. ." He had great authority among all the people,. and a number of servants attended to supply him with replenished cups. The presents which he received from us, he retained in his own custody, whereas Attagha and several other chiefs, gave up to their superiors whatever the captains had presented to them. The priest had a daughter, who received many presents from our people. She was extremely well featured, and fairer than most of the women of this country, who seemed to pay her some degree of deference. A fairer complexion, and softer features than those of the common people, are the natural effects of an easy inactive life, unexposed to the blaze of a tropical sun, and pampered with a profusion of the best productions of the country. Must we not conclude therefore that the beginnings of luxury will be introduced even here under the cloak of religion, and that another nation will be added to the many dupes of voluptuous priest-craft? So small a spark as the cunning of a single man may in time kindle a dreadful and irresistible fire! The obedience and submission with which these people revere their chiefs, are evident proofs that their government, though perhaps not perfectly despotic, is yet far from being democratical; and this kind of political constitution seems likely to facilitate the introduction of luxury. This seems to hold good likewise in regard to many islands in the western part of the Pacific Ocean, since the faithful descriptions of Schouten, Le Maire, and Tasman, who visited them, correspond in every material particular with our own observations. The general disposition for trading, and the kind and friendly reception which strangers have almost constantly met with in every island belonging to this group, prevailed upon us to give these discoveries of Schouten and Tasman, the name of the Friendly Islands. Schouten's boats were indeed attacked at Cocos, Traitors, Hope, and Horne Islands; but these attacks were inconsiderable, though severely punished on the part of the Dutch navigator, who, after the first disturbance at Horne Island, lay there nine days in perfect good understanding with the natives. Tasman, who twenty-seven years afterwards saw several islands near six degrees to the southward of those which Schouten has visited, was received with every demonstration of peace and friendship, though he was the first European that discovered them. Whether this behaviour was only a consequence of the intelligence which the natives of Tonga-Tabboo and Ana-mocka, ( Ansterdam and Rotterdam Islands,) might have received from those of Cocos, Hope, and Horne Islands, concerning the superior strength of the strangers and the havock which they had made; or whether it was the natural effect of their peaceable disposition, I cannot venture to determine, though I am inclined to adopt the former opinion. Captain Wallis probably saw Cocos and Traitors Islands in 1767, which he called Boscawen's and Keppel's Isles; but his people did the natives no hurt, except frightening them with the discharge of a single musket. M. de Bougainville saw some of the north-eastermost isles belonging to this group, of which the inhabitants had the same general character. He called his discovery the Archipel des Navigateurs , justly enough, as many ships have fallen in with it. Since Tasman's time, no other navigator has had any intercourse with the isle of Amsterdam, which he discovered, previous to our arrival. During a space, therefore, of one hundred and thirty years, they have not materially changed their manners, dresses, way of living, disposition, &c. &c. Our ignorance of their language prevented our obtaining positive proof that they still preserved, by tradition, the memory of former visitors; but they possessed some nails, which must have been brought to the island in Tasman's time. We purchased one of these nails, which was very small and almost consumed with rust, but had been carefully preserved by being fixed on a wooden handle, probably to serve the purposes of a googe or borer, and is now deposited in the British Museum. We likewise bought some small earthen pots, perfectly black with soot on the outside, and suspected them to be memorials of Tasman's voyage; but afterwards we rather believed that they were manufactured by the natives themselves. The accounts of Schouten, Tasman, and M. de Bougainville agree with ours, in respect of the agility with which the natives committed petty thefts. Tasman and captain Wallis have likewise observed their custom of cutting off the little finger; and according to Schouten's and Le Maire's circumstantial narratives, the natives of Horne Island were as submissive to their king as those of Tonga-Tabboo. The experience of the superior power of the strangers, made them respectful even to servility towards the Dutch; their king prostrated himself before a Dutch purser, and their chiefs placed their necks under his foot [127] See Mr. Dalrymple's Historical Collection of Voyages in the Pacific Ocean , vol. II. p. 41. . These excessive marks of submission seem to border upon meanness and cowardice; but we never had reason to suppose them tinctured with these vices. Their behaviour towards us was commonly accompanied with that freedom and boldness which the rectitude of intentions inspires; and though really polite, was never unbecoming. Here, however, as in all other societies of men, we found exceptions to the general character, and had reason to lament the behaviour of vicious individuals. Dr. Sparrman and myself having left the beach where the Latoo attracted the attention of all our people, entered the wood in pursuit of farther discoveries in our branch of science. The first discharge of my fowling-piece at a bird brought three natives towards us, with whom we entered into conversation, as far as our superficial knowledge of their tongue would permit. Soon after, Dr. Sparrman stepped aside into a thicket in search of a bayonet, which he had lost from the end of his musket. One of the natives, finding the temptation of the moment irresistible, grasped my fowling-piece, and struggled to wrest it from me. I called to my companion, and the two other natives ran away, unwilling to become accomplices in this attack. In the struggle our feet were entangled in a bush, and we both fell together; but the native, seeing he could not gain his point, and perhaps dreading the arrival of Dr. Sparrman, got up before me, and took that opportunity of running off. My friend joined me immediately; and we concluded, that if there was something treacherous or vicious in the behaviour of this fellow, our separation was also imprudent, because it had furnished him with an opportunity to exercise his talents. We continued strolling about for some time, without any sinister accident, and returned to the trading-place on the beach, where we found almost all the people whom we had left. Many of them were now seated in different little groups, which appeared to be so many separate families, and consisted of persons of various ages and sexes. They were all in conversation, of which no doubt the arrival of our ships furnished the topics; and many of their women amused themselves either with singing or playing at ball. There was a young girl in particular, whose features were more regular than common, her eyes sparkling with vivacity, her whole frame admirably proportioned, and, what was most remarkable here, her long jetty hair hanging down in graceful curls on her neck. This girl, lively and easy in all her actions, played with five gourds, of the size of small apples, perfectly globular; she threw them up into the air one after another continually, and never failed to catch them all with great dexterity, at least for a quarter of an hour. The musical ladies again performed the same tune which we had already heard at Ea-oowhe, the different voices falling in with each other very harmoniously, and sometimes joining all together as in chorus. Though I never saw the natives of these islands dance, yet we may add this amusement to the list of those which they are acquainted with, from their own accounts and gestures whenever they sold us their aprons made of stars of coco-nut core, and ornamented with shell-work and red feathers, or such as were curiously wrought of mats in resemblance of fret-work. From these gestures I have great reason to suppose that their dances are of a dramatic kind, and public, like those which I have spoken of in the Society Isles, (see pag. 398). Schouten and Le Maire likewise strongly confirm this supposition by their account of the dances at Horne Island [128] See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol. II. p. 47. . It appeared, upon the whole, that the customs and language of these islanders have a great affinity with those of the Taheitians, and that it would not therefore be very singular to find a coincidence even in their amusements. The greatest differences between these two tribes, who must have originated from the same stock, seem to be owing to the different nature of their islands. The Society Isles are well furnished with wood, and the tops of their mountains are still covered with inexhaustible forests. At the Friendly Isles this article is much scarcer, the surface (at least of those which we have seen) being almost entirely laid out in plantations. The natural consequence is, that the houses are lofty and of immense extent in the first group of islands; but much smaller and less convenient in the last. In one the canoes are numerous, I may almost say innumerable, and many of a vast size; and, in the other, very few in number, and much smaller. The mountains of the Society Isles continually attract the vapours from the atmosphere, and many rivulets descent from the broken rocks into the plain, where they wind their serpentine course and glide smoothly to the sea. The inhabitants of those islands take advantage of this gift of bountiful nature, and not only drink of the salutary element, but likewise bathe so frequently in it that no impurity can long adhere to their skin. It is very different with a people who are absolutely denied this blessing, and who must either content themselves with putrid stagnant rain-water in a few dirty pools, or go entirely without it. They are obliged to have recourse to expedients in order to preserve a certain degree of cleanliness, which may preclude various distempers. They therefore cut off their hair, and shave or clip their bears, which doubtless makes them look more unlike the Taheitians than they would otherwise do. Still these precautions are not sufficient, especially as they have no fluid for drinking in any quantity. The body is therefore very subject to leprous complaints, which are perhaps irritated by the use of the pepper-root water or awa. Hence also that burning or blistering on the cheek-bones which we observed to be so general among this tribe, that hardly an individual was free from it, and which can only be used as a remedy against some disorders. The soil of the Society Isles in the plains and vallies is rich, and the rivulets which intersect it, supply abundance of moisture. All sorts of vegetables therefore thrive with great luxuriance upon it, and require little attendance or cultivation. This profusion is become the source of that great luxury among the chiefs which we do not meet with at Tonga-Tabboo. There the coral rock is covered only with a thin bed of mould, which sparingly affords nourishment to all sorts of trees; and the most useful of all, the bread-fruit tree, thrives imperfectly on the island, as it is destitute of water, except when a genial shower happens to impregnate and fertilize the ground. The labour of the natives is therefore greater than that of the Taheitians, and accounts for the regularity of the plantations, and the accurate division of property. It is likewise to this source we must ascribe it, that they have always set a higher value on their provisions than on their tools, dresses, ornaments, and weapons, though many of these must have cost them infinite time and application. They very justly conceive the articles of food to be their principal riches, of which the loss is absolutely not to be remedied. If we observed their bodies more slender and their muscles harder than those of the Taheitians, this seems to be the consequence of a greater and more constant exertion of strength. Thus, perhaps, they become industrious by force of habit, and when agriculture does not occupy them, they are actuated to employ their vacant hours in the fabrick of that variety of tools and instruments on which they bestow so much time, patience, labour, and ingenuity. This industrious turn has also led them, in the cultivation of all their arts, to so much greater perfection than the Taheitians. By degrees they have hit upon new inventions, and introduced an active spirit and enlivening chearfulness even into their amusements. Their happiness of temper they preserve under a political constitution, which does not appear to be very favourable to liberty; but we need not go so far from home to wonder at such a phӕnomenon, when one of the most enslaved people in all Europe, are characterised as the merriest and most facetious of mankind. Still there may be more sincerity in the chearfulness of the natives of Tonga-Tabboo; for, exclusive of great and almost servile submission, their king does not seem to exact any thing from them, which, by depriving them of the means to satisfy the most indispensible wants of nature, could make them miserable. Be this as it may, so much seems to be certain, that their systems of politics and religion, from their similarity with the Taheitian, as far as we could judge, must have had one common origin, perhaps in the mother country, from whence both these colonies issued. Single dissonant customs, and opinions may have acceded to the primitive ideas; in proportion as various accidents, or human caprices have given rise to them. The affinity of their languages is still more decisive. The greatest part of the necessaries of life, common to both groups of islands, the parts of the body, in short the most obvious and universal ideas, were expressed at the Society and Friendly Isles nearly by the same words. We did not find that sonorousness in the Tonga-Tabboo dialect, which is prevalent in that of Taheitee, because the inhabitants of the former have adopted the F, K, and S, so that their language is more replete with consonants. This harshness is compensated however by the frequent use of the liquid letters, L, M, N; and of the softer vowels E and I, to which we must add that kind of singing tone, which they generally retain even in common conversation. _________But it is time to return from this digression.

We did not part from our friends till sun-set, promising to return to them once more the next morning. Our ships were well provided with bananas, yams, and coco-nuts; and, considering the small size of the island, as well as our short stay, sixty or eighty hogs, besides a vast number of large fowls, were a surprising acquisition. During our stay we had searched the country in vain for water, and the master had been sent to the eastward to survey Maria Bay, and the low isles which shelter that harbour. The situation of these islands he found very exactly represented in the charts of the ever accurate Tasman, and on one of them where he landed, he saw an astonishing number of speckled water-snakes, with flat tails, which are harmless, and distinguished in the system of Linnӕus, by the name of colubri laticaudati. In our branch we had not been unsuccessful, this little island having afforded us several new plants, among which was a new species of jesuit's bark, or cinchona, of which the bitter bark may perhaps be equally efficacious with that of Peru. We also collected several birds unknown before, and purchased some live species, particularly of the parrot and pigeon tribe, of the natives, who seem to be very expert fowlers. But it did not appear to us, that the pigeons, which many carried perched on crooked sticks, were marks of distinction, though Schouten at Horne Island where the same custom prevails, is of that opinion [129] See Mr. Dalrymple's Historical Collection, vol. II. p. 46. . In the last boat which had brought our people on board in the evening, the Latoo or king had sent a great quantity of vegetables, together with a whole hog roasted, or dressed under ground, as a present to the captain. In the morning therefore, we embarked early in the pinnace, and rowed to the shore to make a present in return. We found the Latoo sitting at a little distance from the beach; and captain Cook gave him a shirt, a saw, a hatchet, a brass kettle, and several articles of less moment, all which he received with sullen gravity; this deportment he never varied, except once, when he was seen to smile as he conversed with Attagha. Among the croud, we observed a single man, who differed from all the rest, by having suffered his hair to grow, and having twisted it into several round bunches, which hung wildly about his ears. This man, and the young girl mentioned page 468. were the only persons we met with, who had not conformed to the general custom of cutting off the hair.

After a short conversation with the natives, of whom we bought a variety of their tools, on account of their elegant carving, we returned on board to breakfast, and immediately after weighed the anchors and set sail. The provisions lying in confused heaps on the decks, prevented our going into the open sea immediately. We therefore kept standing off and on, under shelter of this island, and did not take our departure till towards evening, when we shaped our course southerly.

[Friday 8.]The next morning, the weather being nearly calm, we caught a shark, eight feet long, consequently bigger than any we had seen before. In the afternoon we saw the little isle which Tasman calls Pylstaerts Island. This name refers to the birds, which the Dutch navigators observed there, and which in all probability were tropic birds. Pylstaert literally signifying arrow-tail, alludes to the two long feathers in the tail of this bird, from whence its French name of paille-en-queue is likewise derived [130] See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection, vol. II. p. 75. where they are called wild ducks. . Its latitude is 22° 26' S. and its longitude 170° 59' W. A contrary S. W. wind which sprung up towards evening, obliged us to [Sunday 10.]cruize about till the 10th in the morning, when we came in sight of this little islet again. It is of a moderate height, and has two hummocks, of which the southernmost is the highest. We recovered the trade-wind by degrees, so that we were out of sight of this island about two o'clock in the afternoon, and having bid adieu to the tropical islands of this ocean, directed our course a second time towards New Zeeland. We had now made such good use of the four months, after our departure from thence, as to have crossed the South Sea in the middle latitudes, in the depth of winter, examined a space of more than forty degrees of longitude between the tropics, and refreshed our people at Taheitee, the Society Islands, and the Friendly Islands during one and thirty days. The season for prosecuting our discoveries in high southern latitudes advanced, and the savage rocks of New Zeeland were only to give us shelter, whilst we changed our fair-weather rigging, for such as might resist the storms and rigours of more inhospitable climates.

;

CHAP. II.

Course from the Friendly Isles to New Zeeland. - Separation from the Adventure. - Second stay in Queen Charlotte's Sound.

[1773. October.]WE had no sooner left the torrid zone, than flocks of sea-fowls attended us on our course, and hovered lightly on the waves, which a favourable gale had raised. [Tuesday 12.] On the 12th an albatross appeared, among the rest of the inhabitants of the temperate zone, which never dare to cross the tropic, but roam from thence even to the polar circle; so carefully has nature allotted to each animal its proper place of abode.

[Saturday 16.] The weather continued fair till the 16th in the morning, when we had a fall of rain. Some of the people who examined the pump-well, found there a dog, which they brought upon deck. This creature, which had been purchased at the island of Huahine, like many others of the same species, had obstinately refused to take any nourishment, and in all probability had lived ever since in that hole without the least support of food, for a space of thirty-nine or forty days. The whole body was reduced to a mere skeleton, the legs were contracted, and he voided blood at the anus. The torments in which this poor animal must have lived, were a lesson to our people, to purchase only young puppies of this race for the future, as the grown dogs constantly refused to eat on board.

The next night several blubbers passed by the ship, which were visible on account of their phosphoric light. Their luminous quality was so great, that the bosom of the sea, seemed to contain brighter stars than the ӕther.

Sea-weed, sheer-waters, and albatrosses daily appeared, as we advanced towards New Zeeland. On the 19th, the sea was luminous, and on the 20th, the diving petrels arrived in flocks about us, and indicated the proximity of the land, which we saw the next morning at five o'clock. [Tuesday 21.]We stood in shore all the day, till four in the afternoon, when we were abreast of the Table Cape [131] See the chart of New Zeeland, in vol. II. of Hawkesworth's Compilation. , and Portland Island which adjoins to it by a ledge of rocks. The shores were white and steep towards the sea, and we could perceive the huts and strong holds of the natives, like eagles airies on the top of the cliffs. A great number of natives ran along the rocks, in order to gaze at us, as we passed by them, and many seated themselves at the point which extends to the southward, but did not care to come off to us in their canoes. We sailed between the sunken rock and the land, and continued our course across Hawke's Bay, and then along shore, as it was growing dark.

[Friday 22.]In the morning we were to the south of Cape Kidnappers, and advanced to the Black Cape. After breakfast three canoes put off from this part of the shore, where some level land appeared at the foot of the mountains. They soon came on board as we were not very far from the land, and in one of them was a chief, who came on deck without hesitation. He was a tall middle-aged man, clothed in two new and elegant dresses, made of the New Zeeland flag or flax-plant. His hair was dressed in the highest fashion of the country, tied on the crown, oiled, and stuck with white feathers. In each ear he wore a piece of albatross-skin covered with its white down, and his face was punctured in spirals and curve lines. Mr. Hodges drew his portrait, and a print of it is inserted in captain Cook's account of this voyage. His companions sold us some fish, while he was entertained in the cabin. The captain presented him with a piece of red baize, some garden-seeds, two young pigs of each sex, and likewise three pairs of fowls. Our young Borabora man, Mahine, who did not understand the language of the New Zeelanders at the first interview like Tupaya, hearing from us that these people were not possessed of coco-nuts and yams, produced some of these nuts and roots with a view to offer them to the chief; but upon our assuring him the climate was unfavourable to the growth of palm-trees, he only presented the yams, whilst we made an effort to convince the chief of the value of the presents which he had received, and that it was his interest to keep the hogs and fowls for breeding, and to plant the roots. He seemed at last to comprehend our meaning, and in return for such valuable presents, parted with his mahèe-peh or battle-axe, which was perfectly new, its head well carved, and ornamented with red parrot's feathers and white dog's hair. After a short stay he returned on deck, where captain Cook presented him with several large nails. He received those with so much eagerness that he seemed to value them above any other present; and having observed that the captain took them out of one of the holes in the capstan, where his clerk had put them, he turned the capstan all round, and examined every hole to see if there were not some more concealed. This circumstance plainly shews how much the value of iron tools is advanced in the estimation of the New Zeelanders since the Endeavour's voyage, when they would hardly receive them in many places. Before their departure they gave us a heeva or warlike dance, which consisted of stamping with the feet, brandishing short clubs, speakers, &c. making frightful contorsions of the face, lolling out the tongue, and bellowing wildly, but in tune with each motion. From their manner of treating the fowls which we had given them, we had no great reason to expect success in our plan of stocking this country with domestic animals, and we much feared whether the birds would reach the shore alive. We comforted ourselves, however, with the thoughts of having at least attempted what we could not hope to see accomplished.

The wind, which had shifted during our interview with these savages, blew right off shore, and was very unfavourable. It encreased towards evening into a hard gale, during which we hauled our wind, and stood on different tacks for fear of being blown too far from the coast. Heavy rains attended this gale, and penetrated every cabin in the ship. Squalls were likewise frequent, and split some old sails, which were not fit to resist the violence of the tempest. We had not expected such a rough reception in the latitude of 40° south, and felt the air from the bleak mountains of New Zeeland very cold and uncomfortable, the thermometer [Saturday 23.]being at 50 degrees in the morning. A few hours of moderate and almost calm weather succeeded these boisterous beginning, after which the gale freshened to the same height as the night before. By day it abated again, and permitted us to run in shore, but every night it encreased and blew in furious gusts, which demanded all our attention. On the 24th, in the evening, we had reached the entrance of Cook's Strait, and saw Cape Palliser before us; [Monday 25.]but the next morning a gale sprung up, which was already so violent, at nine o'clock, that we were forced to hand our sails and lay to, under a single one. Though we were situated under the lee of a high and mountainous coast, yet the waves rose to a vast height, ran prodigiously long, and were dispersed into vapour as they broke by the violence of the storm. The whole surface of the sea was by this means rendered hazy, and as the sun shone out in a cloudless sky, the white foam was perfectly dazzling. The fury of the wind still encreased so as to tear to pieces the only sail which we had hitherto dared to shew, and we rolled about at the mercy of the waves, frequently shipping great quantities of water, which fell with prodigious force on the decks, and broke all that stood in the way. The continual strain slackened all the rigging and ropes in the ship, and loosened every thing, in so much that it gradually gave way and presented to our eyes a general scene of confusion. In one of the deepest rolls the arm-chest on the quarter-deck was torn out of its place and overset, leaning against the rails to leeward. A young gentleman, Mr. Hood, who happened to be just then to leeward of it, providentially escaped by bending down when he saw the chest falling, so as to remain unhurt in the angle which it formed with the rail. The confusion of the elements did not scare every bird away from us: from time to time a black shear-water hovered over the ruffled surface of the sea, and artfully withstood the force of the tempest, by keeping under the lee of the high tops of the waves. The aspect of the ocean was at once magnificent and terrific: now on the summit of a broad and heavy billow, we overlooked an unmeasurable expanse of sea, furrowed into numberless deep channels; now on a sudden the wave broke under us, and we plunged into a deep and dreary valley, whilst a fresh mountain rose to windward with a foaming crest, and threatened to overwhelm us. The night coming on was not without new horrors, especially for those who had not been bred up to a seafaring life. In the captain's cabin the windows were taken out and replaced by the dead-lights, to guard against the intrusion of the waves in wearing the ship. This operation disturbed from its retreat a scorpion, which had lain concealed in a chink, and was probably brought on board with fruit from the islands. Our friend Mahine assured us that it was harmless, but its appearance alone was horrid enough to fill the mind with apprehension [132] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. II. . In the other cabins the beds were perfectly soaked in water, whilst the tremendous roar of the waves, the creaking of the timbers, and the rolling motion deprived us of all hopes of repose. To complete this catalogue of horrors, we heard the voices of sailors from time to time louder than the blustering winds or the raging ocean itself, uttering horrible vollies of curses and oaths. Without any provocation to serve as an excuse, they execrated every limb in varied terms, piercing and complicated beyond the power of description. Inured to danger from their infancy, they were insensible to its threats; and not a single reflection bridled their blasphemous tongues. I know of nothing comparable to the dreadful energy of their curses, than that disgrace to christianity the Anathema of Ernulphus [133] See Tristram Shandy. . In this comfortless situation we continued till two o'clock the next morning, when the wind died away suddenly, and was succeeded in an hour's time by another from a favourable quarter. In the calm interval between these two winds, the ship rolled more violently than ever, so that the main-chains were repeatedly dipped under water, with part of the quarter-deck.

[Tuesday 26.]We sailed all this day towards the land, having been driven off many leagues during the storm. Pintadas, black shear-waters, and other petrels now surrounded us in great flocks, and we passed an albatross sitting fast asleep in the water, perhaps fatigued by the violence of the preceding gale.

The next day we were disappointed once more at the mouth of the strait, and got a contrary wind, which blew a storm before night. The same weather continued for two days following, almost without intermission. On the [Friday 29.]29th, early in the morning, several water-spouts were seen by the officer at watch; and soon after we had a slight shower and a favourable change of wind. In the evening we lost sight of the Adventure our consort, whom we never rejoined again during this voyage. The foul wind which in the morning on the 30th certainly contributed to separate her from us entirely, she being so far astern that this wind must have had infinitely more effect upon her than upon our ship.

It would be useless and tedious to repeat the many changes from adverse tempests to favourable gales which succeeded those already mentioned, and which made us despair of ever coming to an anchor in New Zeeland again. We were buffetted about for nine nights together, during which sleep scarce ever visited our eyes. [1773. November.][Monday 1.]On the 1st of November we got into Cook's Strait, but the weather proved so inconstant, that it became contrary to us as soon as we had approached Cape Tera-wittee upon the Northern Island. Our situation permitted us, however, the next day [Tuesday 2.]to come to an anchor in a new bay, which we discovered immediately under this promontory to the westward. The environs of this bay were dreary, blackish, barren mountains, of a great height, almost wholly destitute of woods and shrubs, and running out into long spits of sharp columnar rocks into the sea. The bay itself seemed to extend a considerable way up between the mountains, and by its direction left us in doubt, whether the land on which Cape Tera-wittee is situated, is not a separate island from Eaheino mauwe. This miserable country was, however, inhabited, and we had not been half an hour at anchor, before several canoes full of natives came on board. They were very despicably habited in old shaggy cloaks, which they called bòghee-bògghee. The smoke to which they are perpetually exposed in their wretched habitations, and a load of impurities which they had probably never washed off since their birth, perfectly concealed their real colour, and made them look of a vile brownish yellow. The season of winter, which was just at an end, had in all likelihood forced them at times to make their meals on putrid fishes, which, together with the use of rancid oil for the hair, had so penetrated them with an insufferable stench, that we could smell them at a distance. They brought a few of their fish-hooks and some dried tails of craw-fish to sell, for which they eagerly received our iron-ware and Taheitee cloth. Captain Cook likewise presented them with two pair of fowls, with strong injunctions to keep them for breeding; but it is hardly to be expected that these wretched savages will attend to the domestication of animals. In their unthinking situation, the first moment they have nothing ready at hand to satisfy the cravings of appetite, our fowls must fall the victims to their voracity. If there are any hopes of succeeding in the introduction of domestic animals in this country, it must be in the populous bays to the northward, where the inhabitants seem to be more civilized, and are already accustomed to cultivate several roots for their subsistence.

About three o'clock in the afternoon the weather fell perfectly calm; but in a little time a southerly wind came up the strait, at sight of which curling the water at a distance, we weighed anchor and got out of the bay. And very fortunate it was that we did so, for the gale encreased after a few minutes to such a furious pitch, that we were hurried along with astonishing speed, and after passing close to the dangerous rocks of the Brothers, on which a most dreadful surf was breaking, we came to an anchor at night, under shelter of Cape Koa-maroo in Queen Charlotte's Sound.

[Wednesd. 3.]The next day, about noon, we came safely into the Ship-Cove, from whence we sailed on the 7th of June, near five months before. We were in great hopes of being rejoined here by the Adventure, because captain Cook intended to make some stay at this place, though the early season of the year did not promise such abundance of refreshments as we had enjoyed at our first visit.

We had hardly dropped our anchor, before several of the inhabitants, who had been out fishing, came to see us in their canoes, and disposed of the fish which they had caught. We recollected them as some of our old friends, and called them by their names, at which they expressed great satisfaction, doubtless because it served to persuade them that we were particularly concerned for their welfare by retaining them in memory. The weather was fair and warm, considering the season, but our New Zeelanders were all covered with shaggy cloaks, which are their winter dresses. We questioned them concerning the health of their absent countrymen, and received various answers; but among the rest they acquainted us, that Goobaïa, one of their old chiefs, had chaced the two goats which we had left in the woods of Grass-Cove, and had killed and eaten them. This news was most unwelcome to us, as it destroyed all our hopes of stocking the forests of this country with quadrupeds.

In the afternoon we visited all the plantations which we had left on the beach in Ship-Cove, on the Hippah-Rock, and on motu-Aro. We found almost all the radishes and turneps shot into seed, the cabbages and carrots very fine, and abundance of onions and parsley in good order; the peas and beans were almost entirely lost, and seemed to have been destroyed by rats. The potatoes were likewise all extirpated; but, from appearances, we guessed this to have been the work of the natives. The thriving state of our European pot-herbs, gave us a strong and convincing proof of the mildness of the winter in this part of New Zeeland, where it seems it had never frozen hard enough to kill these plants, which perish in our winters. The indigenous plants of this country were not yet so forward; the deciduous trees and shrubs, in particular, were but just beginning to look green, and the vivid colour of their fresh leaves well contrasted with the dark wintery hue of the evergreens. The flag, of which the natives prepare their hemp, was however in flower, together with some other early species. We collected all we could find, gathered a quantity of celery and scurvy-grass, and shot some water-fowl, with all which we returned on board in the evening. We immediately made drawings and descriptions of all that was new to us, and particularly of the flag, ( phormium tenax.) which, on account of the excellent flax that may be prepared from it, deserves to be more universally known. Desirous to promote every improvement which may turn out a real benefit to mankind, we did not hesitate a moment to permit an engraving to be made from our drawing, at the request of the Earl of Sandwich, which is intended to ornament captain Cook's account of this voyage.

[Thursday 4.]The natives returned the next morning in more canoes than the preceding day, and among them was Teiratu, the chief, who had made acquaintance with us on the fourth of June, and had pronounced a long harrangue that day. He was now in his old clothes, or what the polite world would call deshabillè; quite destitute of the finery of chequered mats edged with dog-skin, and his hair carelessly tied in a bunch, instead of being combed smooth, and delectably greased with stinking oil. In short, from being the orator and leader of a troop of warriors, he seemed to be degraded to a simple fishmonger. It was with some difficulty that we recognized his features under this disguise, upon which he was taken into the cabin, and presented with some nails. Our iron ware, and our provision of Taheitee cloth, were articles of such importance to Teiratu and his people, that they resolved to establish themselves near us, in order to be the first to profit by our commerce, and perhaps to lose no opportunity of laying their hands on any thing which belonged to us. Our ship lay very near the beach where we intended to fill our empty casks with fresh water. Here we had already set up a tent for the people who were employed in this branch of our preparations; another for our wood-cutters, and the astronomical observatory. We went on shore at this place, both before and after-noon, and made our way through a labyrinth of climbers which crossed from one tree to another. Mahine (or Hedeedee) likewise came on shore with us, and roamed through its intricate forests, surprised at the number of different birds, their sweet melody, and their beautiful plumage. One of our gardens where the radishes and turneps were in flower, was remarkably full of small birds, which sucked the nectareous juices of the blossoms, and not seldom plucked them from the stalk. We shot several of them, and Mahine, who had never made use of fire-arms in his life before, killed his bird at the first discharge. The senses of all nations, not more polished than his countrymen, are infinitely more acute than ours, which a thousand accidents tend to impair. We never were more clearly convinced of this, than at Taheitee; it was very usual for the natives there, to point out small birds to us in the thickest trees, or ducks and other water-fowl between bushes of reeds, where not one of us could ever perceive them.

The weather, which was warm and pleasant, facilitated our zoological researches, so that we brought home a number of birds in the evening.

[Friday 5.]The first intelligence which we received from the shore the next day, was a complaint against the natives, who had stolen during the night, a watch-coat from the waterers tent, and a bag filled with linen. The captain immediately went into the cove, where the savages had taken up their quarters, which was only separated by a single hill from our watering-place, and to which he had given the name of Indian Cove. Here he addressed himself to their chief Teiratu, who sent for the stolen goods, and returned them without hesitation, pretending that the theft was committed without his knowledge. Our people were politic enough to believe him on his word, because the address of his countrymen had hitherto supplied us with abundance of fish, for a very moderate compensation of Taheitee cloth, whilst we caught them but very sparingly. In this place they found one of the sows, which captain Furneaux had left in Canibal Cove; and Teiratu being questioned concerning its two companions, pointed to different quarters of the bay, whither he said they had been carried. Thus by separating the animals, and dividing them as a spoil, these barbarians effectually destroy the possibility of propagating the species. Too much occupied with the wants of the present moment, they overlook the only means of securing a certain livelihood to themselves, and reject every attempt to civilize them.

[Saturday 6.]They were joined by a strong party on the 6th in the afternoon, who came from various parts of the bay, with a great quantity of fish, and abundance of their clothes, arms, &c. which they exchanged for Taheitee cloth. In the evening they retired to a beach opposite the ship, where they hauled their canoes ashore, made some temporary huts, lighted fires, and broiled some fish for their suppers. Early the next morning [Sunday 7.]looking about us, we found they were all gone off, not excepting those who had lived at the Indian Cove. We were at a loss to guess the reason of their sudden departure, till we perceived that they had taken away six small casks from our watering-place, probably for the sake of the iron hoops. It is certain, that by supplying us with fish for another day, they would have received three or four times the value of this iron, manufactured for their use; but we have already observed that they are not much troubled with reflections, and probably value a bird in hand more than two in a bush. We were the greatest sufferers on this occasion, being now reduced to catch fish for ourselves, though we could not spare a sufficient number of hands, and were not acquainted with the haunts of the fishes as well as the natives. Our people were occupied in cleaning, caulking, and breaming the ship, setting up and repairing the rigging, and, in short, in fitting her for the next southern cruize. A great party were on shore to fill our empty casks with fresh-water, to make provision of fuel, and to revise the ship's biscuit, which was in a very decayed condition. It had unfortunately been packed into new, or what are called green casks, the staves of which being damp, had communicated the moisture to the bread, a considerable part of which was perfectly rotten, and all the rest, more or less covered with mould. To prevent the fatal effects of this corruption, all the bread was carried ashore, the bad carefully selected from that which was still eatable, and this last put into an oven and baked over again, till it was thoroughly dried.

The weather during this time was as boisterous and inconstant, as that which had so long kept us out of this harbour. Scarce a day passed without heavy squalls of wind, which hurried down with redoubled velocity from the mountains, and strong showers of rain, which retarded all our occupations. The air was commonly cold and raw, vegetation made slow advances, and the birds were only found in vallies sheltered from the chilling southern blast. This kind of weather in all likelihood prevails throughout the winter, and likewise far into the midst of summer, without a much greater degree of cold in the former, or of warmth in the latter season. Islands far remote from any continent, or at least not situated near a cold one, seem in general to have an uniform temperature of air, owing perhaps to the nature of the ocean which every where surrounds them. It appears from the meteorological journals kept at Port Egmont on the Falkland Islands [134] See the Journal of the Winds and Weather, and Degrees of Heat and Cold by the thermometer at Falkland's Island, from February 1766, to January 1767. inserted in Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages in the Southern Atlantic Ocean . , that the extremes of the greatest cold, and the greatest heat observed there throughout the year, do not exceed thirty degrees on Fahrenheit's scale. The latitude of that port is 51° 25' south; and that of Ship Cove in Queen Charlotte's Sound, only 41° 5'. This considerable difference of site, will naturally make the climate of New Zeeland infinitely milder than that of Falkland's Islands, but cannot affect the general hypothesis concerning the temperature of all islands; and the immense height of the mountains in New Zeeland, some of which are covered with snow throughout the year, doubtless contributes to refrigerate the air, so as to assimilate it to that of the Falkland's Isles, which are not so high.

The inclemency of the season did not prevent the natives from rambling about in this spacious sound. Having been entirely forsaken by them for three days together, a party arrived near us on the 9th, in three canoes, one of which was elegantly carved in fretwork on the stern. They sold us some curiosities, and then went on shore abreast of the ship; but we did not remember having ever seen them before. The next day two wretched canoes joined these in which was our friend Towahanga with his family [135] See page 209. . He came immediately on board, with his little boy Khoâa and his daughter Ko-parree, and disposed of a great number of green nephritic stones wrought into chissels and blades of hatchets. He was introduced into the cabin, where captain Cook gave him many little presents, and dressed his little boy in one of his own white shirts. The boy was so overjoyed at his finery, that we found it absolutely impossible to keep him in the cabin by fair words. He was bent upon parading it before his countrymen on the deck, and persisted to importune us till we let him out. His little vanity, however, had the most disastrous consequences. An old he-goat, which went about our decks, to the great terror of all the New Zeelanders, took offence at the ludicrous figure of poor Khoâa, who was lost in the ample turns and folds of his shirt, and awkwardly trotted along with self-complacency. The sturdy mountaineer stepped in his way, and raising himself on his hind-legs, butted with his head full against him, and laid him sprawling on the deck in an instant. The unsuccessful efforts which the boy made to rise, together with his loud lamentations, so provoked the goat, that he prepared to repeat the compliment, and would probably have silenced this knight of the rueful countenance, if some of our people had not interposed. His shirt was now sullied, and his face and hands covered with dirt; and in this pitiful plight he returned into the cabin. His air was quite dejected, his eyes full of tears, and he seemed to be perfectly cured of his vanity. He told his misfortune, crying, to his father; but far from exciting pity, he provoked the savage's indignation, and received several blows as a punishment of his folly, before we could make his peace. We cleaned his shirt and washed him all over, which had perhaps never happened to him before during his life, and thus succeeded to restore him to his former tranquillity. However, his father, dreading a future misfortune, carefully rolled up the shirt, and taking off his own dress, made a bundle of it, in which he placed all the presents which he and his son had received.

[Friday 12.] The natives continued to sell their artificial curiosities and some fish to our people this day and the following, both which proved very rainy. On the 12th, in the morning, the weather being clear again, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myself, went to the Indian Cove, which we found uninhabited. A path, made by the natives, led through the forest a considerable way up the steep mountain, which separates this cove from Shag Cove [136] See the chart of Cook's Strait in Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. II. . The only motive which could induce the New Zeelanders to make this path, appeared to be the abundance of ferns towards the summit of the mountain, the roots of that plant being an article of their diet. The steepest part of the path was cut in steps paved with shingle or slate, but beyond that the climbers impeded our progress considerably. About half way up, the forest ended, and the rest was covered with various shrubs and ferns, though it appeared to be naked and barren from the ship. At the summit we met with many plants which grow in the vallies and by the sea-side at Dusky Bay, owing to the difference of climate, which is so much more rigorous in that southern extremity of New Zeeland. The whole to the very top consists of the same talcous clay which is universal all over the island, and of a talcous stone, which when exposed to the sun and air, crumbles in pieces and dissolves into lamellӕ. Its colour is whitish, greyish, and sometimes tinged with a dirty yellowish-red, perhaps owing to irony particles. The south side of the mountain is clad in forests almost to the summit. The view from hence was very extensive and pleasing; we looked into East Bay as into a fish-pond, and saw Cape Terà-wittee beyond the strait. The mountains in the south arose to a vast height, and were capt with snow; and the whole prospect on that side was wild and chaotic. We made a fire as a memorial of our expedition, and then came down the same path by which we had ascended. The next morning we made an excursion to Long Island, where we found a number of plants and some birds which were new to us. In the woods on the east side we heard some petrels in holes under ground croaking like frogs and cackling like hens; and we supposed them to be of the little diving species, which I have noticed before. It seems to be a general custom of the petrel tribe to make their nest in subterraneous holes, as we found the blue or silvery sort lodged in the same manner at Dusky Bay.

Ever since the 12th the weather was mild and very fair; the natives resided abreast of the ship, and supplied us with plenty of fish, whilst our sailors carried on their former amours with the women, amongst whom there was but one who had tolerable features, and something soft and feminine in her looks. She was regularly given in marriage by her parents to one of our shipmates, who was particularly beloved by this nation, for devoting much of his time to them, and treating them with those marks of affection which, even among a savage race, endear mankind to each other. To-gheeree, for so the girl was called, proved as faithful to her husband as if he had been a New Zeelander, and constantly rejected the addresses of other seamen, professing herself a married woman, ( tirra-tàne). Whatever attachment the Englishman had to his New Zeeland wife, he never attempted to take her on board, foreseeing that it would be highly inconvenient to lodge the numerous retinue which crawled in her garments and weighed down the hair of her head. He therefore visited her on shore, and only by day, treating her with plenty of the rotten part of our biscuit, which we rejected, but which she and all her countrymen eagerly devoured. Mahine, the native of Borabora, whom we had on board, had been so much accustomed in his own country to obey every call of nature, that he did not hesitate to gratify his appetites in New Zeeland, though he was too clearsighted at the same time not to perceive the vast falling off from his own country-women. The force of instinct triumphed over his delicacy, - and can we wonder at it, when our civilized Europeans set him the example? His conduct towards the New Zeelanders in general deserves to be commended. There needed not much penetration to discover that their present existence was very wretched in comparison of that of the tropical islanders; but he also frequently expressed his pity, whilst he enumerated to us a variety of articles of which they were ignorant. He distributed the roots of yams to those who visited the ship at the Black Cape, and always accompanied the captain whenever he went to plant or sow a piece of ground in this harbour. He was not, like Tupaya, so much a master of their language as to converse freely with them, but he soon understood them much better than any one of us, from the great analogy of their language to his own. Our visit to the tropical islands had, however, contributed to make the New Zeeland dialect more intelligible to us than before, and we plainly perceived that it had a great affinity to that of the Friendly Isles, which we had just left. From such little data we can only guess at the probable route by which a country, so far to the south as New Zeeland, has been peopled.

[Sunday 14.]The weather continuing fair on the 14th at night, the captain and my father went on shore to the observatory with telescopes, to observe the emersion of one of Jupiter's satellites. The result of a great number of observations, made at different times by our accurate and indefatigable astronomer, Mr. William Wales, F. R. S. has ascertained the longitude of Queen Charlotte's Sound to be 174° 25' egast from Greenwich.

[Monday 15.]The next morning we accompanied the captain to East Bay, where we visited several small parties of the natives, in three different places. They received us very amicably, presented us with fish, which was always the most valuable article they had to give, and sold us several large hoopnets [137] Of the kind mentioned in Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 392. for our iron and Taheitee cloth. Towards the bottom of the bay we mounted on the same hill which captain Cook had ascended in his first voyage [138] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 397. , intending to look out on the sea if we could perceive the Adventure. But when we reached the summit, we found so thick a haze on the water, that we could see no farther than two or three leagues. The monument which captain Cook had erected here formerly, consisting of a pile of loose stones, under which some coins, bullets, &c. had been buried, was entirely demolished at present; the natives having probably suspected that a treasure of European goods was deposited there. At the foot of this hill some friendly people, like those of which captain Cook took notice at this place in his first voyage, came to us, and disposed of many of their arms, utensils, and dresses. In the afternoon we tried the hoopnets which we had bought of the natives, and had tolerable success. These nets are made of the split leaves of the flag, so often mentioned, after they have been dried and beaten. No plant promises to become so useful to Europe by transplantation as this flag. The hemp of flax which the New Zeelanders make of it, with their coarse materials, is excessively strong, soft, glossy, and white; and that which has been prepared again in England, has almost equalled silk in lustre. It grows on all kinds of soil, and, being perennial, may be cut down to the root every year, and requires scarce any attendance or care in the cultivation.

[Wednesd. 17.]On the 17th, we spent the forenoon in cutting down a number of very tall trees, of which we wished to gather the flowers, but all our efforts were in vain. We had no sooner cut a tree, than it hung in a thousand bindweeds and climbers from top to bottom, from which it was not in our power to disengage it. The three following days we had much rain, which confined us on board; nor did we receive any visits from the natives during that time.

[Sunday 21.]On the 21st in the morning, none but women came from the shore in two canoes, and seemed to be under great apprehensions for their men, signifying to us that they were gone to fight with another party. From the direction in which they pointed, we concluded that their enemies dwelt somewhere in Admiralty Bay.

[Monday 22.]On the 22d, the weather being mild and fair, the captain, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myself, went into West Bay, and in its deepest recess carried ashore two sows and a boar, with three cocks and two hens, which we set at liberty a good way up in the woods. We flattered ourselves that having chosen a marshy spot, which is not likely to be frequented by the inhabitants, the animals would be left to multiply their species without any molestation. A few natives only in a single canoe had seen us in the entrance of the bay, and probably would not suspect that we were come on so particular an errand. If therefore the southern isle of New Zeeland should in course of time be stocked with hogs and fowls, we have great reason to hope that the care with which we concealed them in the woods, has been the only means of preserving the race.

At our return seven or eight canoes arrived from the northward, some of which, without paying any attention to us, went directly into Indian Cove, whilst the rest came on board with a great variety of dresses and arms, which they sold to our people. They were more dressed than we had commonly seen any, during this second stay at Queen Charlotte's Sound, their hair was tied up, and their cheeks painted red. All these circumstances conspired to confirm the account which the women had given us the day before, that their husbands were gone to fight, as it is usual for them to put on their best apparel on those occasions. I am much afraid that their unhappy differences with other tribes, were revived on our account. Our people not satisfied with purchasing all the hatchets of stone, patoo-patoos, battle-axes, clothes, green jaddes, fish-hooks, &c. of which the natives of our acquaintance were possessed, continually enquired for more, and shewed them such large and valuable pieces of Taheitee cloth, as would not fail to excite their desires. It is not improbable that as soon as this appetite prevailed among the New Zeelanders, they would reflect that the shortest way to gratify it, would be to rob their neighbours of such goods, as the Europeans coveted. The great store of arms, ornaments, and clothes which they produced at this time, seemed to prove that such a daring and villainous design had really been put in execution; nor was it to be supposed that this could have been accomplished without bloodshed.

[Tuesday 23.]In the morning, which was very foggy, the natives at our watering-place were seen to eat a root boiled or baked by means of hot stones; and Mr. Whitehouse the first mate brought some of it on board, which tasted rather better than a turnep. My father returned on shore with him; for a few trifles obtained some large pieces of this root, and with some difficulty prevailed on two of the natives to accompany Mr. Whitehouse and him into the woods, in order to point out to them the species of plant to which the root belonged. They walked up a considerable way without any arms whatsoever, trusting to the honesty of their guides. These men pointed out a species of fern-tree, which they called mamaghoo, as having the eatable root; and at the same time shewed the difference between this, and another kind of fern-tree, which they named ponga. The first is full of a tender pulp or pith, which when cut exsudes a reddish juice of a gelatinous nature, nearly related to sago. This is so much the less singular, as the real sago-tree is a species of fern. The good nutritive root of the mamaghoo must not, however, be confounded with that wretched article of New Zeeland diet, the common fern-root, or acrostichum furcatum Linn. The latter consists of nothing but insipid sticks, which after being broiled over the fire for some time, are beaten or bruised on a stone with a piece of wood much resembling the Taheitian cloth-beater, but round instead of square, and without any grooves. The bruised mass is chewed, what little juice there may be in it sucked out, and the rest thrown aside. The mamaghoo on the contrary is tolerably good eating, and the only fault seems to be, that it is not plentiful enough for a constant supply. At their return they were witnesses of an instance of the ferocity of manners of this savage nation. A boy about six or seven years old demanded a piece of broiled pinguin, which his mother held in her hands. As she did not immediately comply with his demand, he took up a large stone and threw it at her. The woman incensed at this action ran to punish him, but she had scarcely given him a single blow, when her husband came forward, beat her unmercifully, and dashed her against the ground, for attempting to correct her unnatural child. Our people who were employed in filling water, told my father they had frequently seen similar instances of cruelty among them, and particularly, that the boys had actually struck their unhappy mother, whilst the father looked on lest she should attempt to retaliate. Among all savage nations the weaker sex is ill-treated, and the law of the strongest is put in force. Their women are mere drudges, who prepare raiment and provide dwellings, who cook and frequently collect their food, and are requited by blows and all kinds of severity. At New Zeeland it seems they carry this tyranny to excess, and the males are taught from their earliest age, to hold their mothers in contempt, contrary to all our principles of morality. I leave this barbarity without a comment, in order to relate the remaining occurrences of this day, which was pregnant in discoveries relative to the New Zeelanders. The captain, with Mr. Wales, and my father, went to Motu-Aro in the afternoon, where they looked after the plantations, collected greens for the ships, &c. In the mean while some of the lieutenants went to the Indian Cove, with a view to trade with the natives. The first objects which struck them were the entrails of a human corse lying on a heap a few steps from the water. They were hardly recovered from their first surprize, when the natives shewed them several limbs of the body, and expressed by words and gestures that they had eaten the rest. The head without the lower jaw-bone, was one of the parts which remained, and from which it plainly appeared, that the deceased was a youth about fifteen or sixteen years old. The skull was fractured near one of the temples, as it seemed by the stroke of a pattoo-pattoo. This gave our officers an opportunity of enquiring how they came in possession of the body. The natives answered, that they had fought with their enemies, and had killed several of them, without being able to bring away any of the dead besides this youth. At the same time they acknowledged that they had lost some of their friends, and pointed to several women who were seated apart, weeping and cutting their foreheads with sharp stones, in commemoration of the dead. Our former conjectures were now amply verified, our apprehensions that we were the innocent causes of this disaster encreased, and the existence of anthropophagi confirmed by another strong proof. Mr. Pickersgill proposed to purchase the head, in order to preserve it till his return to England, where it might serve as a memorial of this voyage. He offered a nail, and immediately obtained the head for this price [139] The head is now deposited in the collection of Mr. John Hunter, F. R. S. , after which he returned on board with his company, and placed it on the taffarel [140] The upper part of the stern. . We were all occupied in examining it, when some New Zeelanders came on board from the watering-place. At sight of the head they expressed an ardent desire of possessing it, signifying by the most intelligible gestures that it was delicious to the taste. Mr. Pickersgill refused to part with it, but agreed to cut off a small piece from the cheek, with which they seemed to be well satisfied. He cut off the part he had promised, and offered it to them, but they would not eat it raw, and made signs to have it dressed. Therefore, in presence of all the ship's company, it was broiled over the fire; after which they devoured it before our eyes with the greatest avidity. The captain arriving the moment after with his company, the New Zeelanders repeated the experiment once more in his presence. It operated very strangely and differently on the beholders. Some there were who, in spite of the abhorrence which our education inspires against the eating of human flesh, did not seem greatly disinclined to feast with them, and valued themselves on the brilliancy of their wit, while they compared their battle to a hunting-match. On the contrary, others were so unreasonably incensed against the perpetrators of this action, that they declared they could be well pleased to shoot them all; they were ready to become the most detestable butchers, in order to punish the imaginary crime of a people whom they had no right to condemn. A few other suffered the same effects as from a dose of ipecacuanha. The rest lamented this action as a brutal depravation of human nature, agreeably to the principles which they had imbibed. But the sensibility of Mahine, the young native of the Society Islands, shone out with superior lustre among us. Born and bred in a country where the inhabitants have already emerged from the darkness of barbarism, and are united by the bonds of society, this scene filled his mind with horror. He turned his eyes from the unnatural object, and retired into the cabin, to give vent to the emotions of his heart. There we found him bathed in tears; his looks were a mixture of compassion and grief, and as soon as he saw us, he expressed his concern for the unhappy parents of the victim. This turn which his reflections had taken, gave us infinite pleasure; it spoke a humane heart, filled with the warmest sentiments of social affection, and habituated to sympathize with its fellow-creatures. He was so deeply affected, that it was several hours before he could compose himself, and ever after, when he spoke on this subject, it was not without emotion. Philosophers, who have only contemplated mankind in their closets, have strenuously maintained, that all the assertions of authors, ancient and modern, of the existence of men-eaters are not to be credited; and there have not been wanting persons amongst ourselves who were sceptical enough to refuse belief to the concurrent testimonies in the history of almost all nations in this particular. But captain Cook had already, in his former voyage, received strong proof that the practice of eating human flesh existed in New Zeeland; and as now we have with our own eyes seen the inhabitants devouring human flesh, all controversy on that point must be at an end. The opinions of authors on the origin of this custom are infinitely various, and have lately been collected by the very learned canon Pauw, at Xanten, in his Recherches Philosophiques fur les Americains, vol. I. p. 207. He seems to think that men were first tempted to devour each other from real want of food and cruel necessity [141] His sentiments are copied by Dr. Hawkesworth, who has disingenuously concealed their author. See his Compilation, vol. III. p. 447. . Many weighty objections, however, may be made against this hypothesis; amongst which the following is one of the greatest. There are very few countries in the world so miserably barren as not to afford their inhabitants sufficient nourishment, and those, in particular, where anthropophagi still exist, do not come under that description. The northern isle of New Zeeland, on a coast of near four hundred leagues, contains scarcely one hundred thousand inhabitants, according to the most probable guess which can be made; a number inconsiderable for that vast space of country, even allowing the settlements to be confined only to the sea-shore. The great abundance of fish, and the beginnings of agriculture in the Bay of Plenty and other parts of the Northern Isle, are more than sufficient to maintain this number, because they have always had enough to supply strangers with what was deemed superfluous. It is true, before the dawn of the arts among them, before the invention of nets, and before the cultivation of potatoes, the means of subsistence may have been more difficult; but then the number of inhabitants must likewise have been infinitely smaller. Single instances are not conclusive in this case, though they prove how far the wants of the body may stimulate mankind to extraordinary actions. In 1772, during a famine which happened throughout all Germany, a herdsman was taken on the manor of Baron Boineburg, in Hessia, who had been urged by hunger to kill and devour a boy, and afterwards to make a practice of it for several months. From his confession it appeared, that he looked upon the flesh of young children as a very delicious food; and the gestures of the New Zeelanders indicated exactly the same thing. An old woman in the province of Matogrosso, in Brasil, declared to the Portuguese governor [142] M. de Pinto, now ambassador from Portugal at the British court; a nobleman equally eminent for his extensive knowledge and his excellent heart. , that she had eaten human flesh several times, liked it very much, and should be very glad to feast upon it again, especially if it was part of a little boy. But it would be absurd to suppose from such circumstances, that killing men for the sake of feasting upon them, has ever been the spirit of a whole nation; because it is utterly incompatible with the existence of society. Slight causes have ever produced the most remarkable events among mankind, and the most trifling quarrels have fired their minds with incredible inveteracy against each other. Revenge has always been a strong passion among barbarians, who are less subject to the sway of reason than civilized people, and has stimulated them to a degree of madness which is capable of all kinds of excesses. The people who first consumed the body of their enemies, seem to have been bent upon exterminating their very inanimate remains, from an excess of passion; but, by degrees, finding the meat wholesome and palatable, it is not to be wondered that they should make a practice of eating their enemies as often as they killed any, since the action of eating human flesh, whatever our education may teach us to the contrary, is certainly neither unnatural nor criminal in itself. It can only become dangerous as far as it steels the mind against that compassionate fellow-feeling which is the great basis of civil society; and for this reason we find it naturally banished from every people as soon as civilization has made any progress among them. But though we are too much polished to be canibals, we do not find it unnaturally and savagely cruel to take the field, and to cut one another's throats by thousands, without a single motive, besides the ambition of a prince, or the caprice of his mistress! Is it not from prejudice that we are disgusted with the idea of eating a dead man, when we feel no remorse in depriving him of life? If the practice of eating human flesh makes men unfeeling and brutal, we have instances that civilized people, who would perhaps, like some of our sailors, have turned sick at the thought of eating human flesh, have committed barbarities without example amongst canibals. A New Zeelander, who kills and eats his enemy, is a very different being from an European, who, for his amusement, tears an infant from the mother's breast, in cool blood, and throws it on the earth to feed his hound [143] Bishop Las Casas says, he has seen this atrocious crime committed in America by Spanish soldiers.

Neque hic lupis mos nec fuit leonibus.

Nunquam nisi in dispar feris.

Hor.

The New Zeelanders never eat their adversaries, unless they are killed in battle; they never kill their relations for the purpose of eating them; they do not even eat them if they die of a natural death, and they take no prisoners with a view to fatten them for their repast [144] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 389, 390. ; though these circumstances have been related, with more or less truth of the American Indians. It is therefore not improbable, that in process of time they will entirely lay aside this custom; and the introduction of new domestic animals into their country might hasten that period, since greater affluence would tend to make them more sociable. Their religion does not seem likely to be an obstacle, because from what we could judge, they are not remarkably superstitious, and it is only among very bigoted nations, that the custom of offering human flesh to the gods, has prevailed after civilization. Tupaya [145] See Hawkesworth, vol. III. p. 472. , the only man who could freely converse with the New Zeelanders, soon learnt that they acknowledged a supreme Being; and this spark of divine revelation probably remains amongst all nations on the globe. To this they add the belief of some inferior divinities, so correspondent to those of the Taheitians, that their system of polytheism must be of very ancient date, and seems to derive its origin from their common ancestors. We never observed a single ceremony in New Zeeland, which could be supposed to have a religious tendency; and I know of only two circumstances which may be distantly construed to favour of superstition. The first is the name of atuee, " the bird of the divinity," which they sometimes give to a species of creeper [146] Our sailors called this the poe-bird. Its common New Zeeland name is kogo. ( certhia cincinnata). This name seems to indicate a veneration like that which is paid to herons, and kingfishers at Taheitee, and the Society Isles; but I cannot say that they ever expressed the least wish to preserve the life of this bird in preference to the rest. The second, is the custom of wearing an amulet of green jadde on the breast, from a string round the neck. This piece of stone is of the size of two crown-pieces, and carved so as to bear a rude resemblance to a human being. These they call e-teeghee, a name which is doubtless equivalent to the Taheitian e-tee [147] Better pronounced E-Tee-ee. . In that island, and the adjacent group, e-tee signifies a wooden image of the human figure, erected on a pole at their cemeteries, in memory of the dead, but to which no worship nor particular respect is paid. The New Zeeland teeghee seems to be worn with a similar view, but not to be better respected; for though they did not part with it for a trifle, yet with half a yard of broad cloth or red kersey, which were our best goods in Queen Charlotte's Sound, we never failed to purchase it. Besides this, they often wear several rows of human teeth round the neck, but we understood that they were only the memorials of their prowess, since they had belonged to the enemies whom they had killed. It always appeared to us, that they have no priests or jugglers of any kind among them, which accounts for their having so little superstition. When the comforts of life are multiplied, it is possible that some individuals may be artful enough to improve upon their present ideas of religion, in order to enjoy exclusive advantages; for it has often been the fate of mankind, that the most sacred, and most inestimable gift of heaven, has served as a cloak under cover of which they have been deluded.

Having fitted the ship to encounter the rigorous climate of the south, and received on board her provision of fresh water and wood, as well as the biscuit which had been baked over again, we re-imbarked all the tents from the [Wednesd. 24.]shore, and on the 24th, early in the morning, unmoored and rode by a single anchor. The natives immediately repaired to the beach which we had left, and finding there a heap of bread-dust which had been rejected as unfit for use at the revisal of our biscuit, they fell to, and consumed it all, though our hogs had before refused to touch it. We could not attribute this proceding to necessity, because they had plenty of fresh fish, of which they daily sold us enough for our consumption. It was rather owing to the diversity of their taste from ours, or to the natural inclination for variety, which made them eat the worst of vegetable food, because it was a rarity, in preference to fish, which is their constant diet. They had another motive for visiting the place of our late establishment; this was, to pick up any little trifles, such as nails, rags, &c. which we might have left behind. Whilst they were so employed, some others came from the interior parts of the bay, and offered a great quantity of their tools and weapons to sell.

In the afternoon, a boat was sent on shore to bury a bottle at the foot of a tree, with a letter for captain Furneaux, in case he should come into the harbour after our departure. Another boat, with several officers, and my father, went to Indian Cove, where the entrails of the body still lay on the ground. The war-canoe, in which the expedition had been made, had a carved head ornamented with bunches of brown feathers, and a double-forked prong projected from it, on which the heart of their slain enemy was tranfixed. Our gentlemen purchased a quantity of their prepared hemp or flax, and many fish-hooks, armed with bone, which, according to the account of the natives, was taken from the human arm.

[Thursday 25.]At four o'clock the next morning, a boat was sent to the Motu-Aro, in order to take a few cabbages out of our plantations. My father took that opportunity of searching the shore for the last time, and was fortunate enough to find some plants which we had not seen before. In the mean while we hove the anchor, set sail, and took up the boat on our way; but finding the current and wind against us, we were forced to come to again about seven o'clock, between Motu-Aro and Long Island. Here we lay an hour or two, and then set sail with a more favourable breeze, which carried us into Cook's Strait.

We stood close in shore under cape Tera-Wittee, and fired several guns to give the Adventure notice of our approach, in case she had lain in one of the adjacent harbours. Between the Capes Tera-Wittee and Palliser, we discovered a very deep bay, of which the shores had every where a gentle slope, and especially towards the bottom, where the hills were removed to such a distance, that we could but just discern them. If there is a sufficient depth of water for ships in this bay, and of that we had no room to doubt, it appears to be a most convenient spot for an European settlement. There is a great stretch of land fit for cultivation, and easily defensible; there is likewise plenty of wood, and almost certain indications of a considerable river; and lastly, the country does not seem to be very populous, so that there would be little danger of quarrels with the natives; advantages which are not frequently to be met with jointly in many spots of New Zeeland. The flag ( phormium tenax) of which the natives make all their clothes, mats, ropes, and nets, affords such an excellent kind of flax, which is at once glossy, elastic, and strong, that it might become an article of commerce in India, where cordage and canvas is wanted. Perhaps in future ages, when the maritime powers of Europe lose their American colonies, they may think of making new establishments in more distant regions; and if it were ever possible for Europeans to have humanity enough to acknowledge the indigenous tribes of the South Sea as their brethren, we might have settlements which would not be defiled with the blood of innocent nations.

We continued firing guns as we stood past this bay, and [Friday 26.]the next morning having doubled Cape Palliser, we ran along the coast to the northward till the evening, likewise firing guns from time to time. Our attempts to rejoin our consort were to no purpose; we heard no answer to all our signals, though we hearkened with an attention, and an eagerness which plainly shewed how unwillingly we ventured on a second cruize among numberless dangers without a companion. We were forced at last to give up the thought of seeing her again, and about six o'clock took our departure from Cape Palliser, steering to the S. S. E.

The scurvy, which had afflicted some of our people after the first tedious cruize to the south, between the Cape of Good Hope and Dusky Bay, had been entirely subdued by the wholesome diet on fish, and the drinking of spruce-beer in that harbour; and afterwards by the excellent greens in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Our disagreeable passage in winter from New Zeeland to Taheitee, had revived the symptoms of the disease in many persons, and in some to a considerable degree; but the continual supply of fresh vegetables, which we received at that island, together with the provision of excellent pork at the Society and Friendly Isles, had entirely re-established them. Our second stay at Queen's Charlotte's Sound had likewise furnished us, as before, with abundance of celery and scurvy-grass, which counteracted the noxious effects of salted meat; so that we were, to appearance, in a good state of health at our second departure from thence. It may, however, justly be questioned, whether the continual hardships and labours which we had undergone, had not in reality made the shew of health deceitful, and impaired the body so much that it was not able to resist so long as it had formerly done. The officers and passengers entered upon this second cruize under several difficulties which did not exist before. They had now no live-stock to be compared to that which they took from the Cape of Good Hope; and the little store of provisions which had supplied their table with variety in preference to that of the common sailor, was now so far consumed, that they were nearly upon a level, especially as the seamen were inured to that way of life by constant habit almost from their infancy; and the others had never experienced it before. The hope of meeting with new lands was vanished, the topics of common conversation were exhausted, the cruize to the south could not present any thing new, but appeared in all its chilling horrors before us, and the absence of our consort doubled every danger. We had enjoyed a few agreeable days between the tropics, we had feasted as well as the produce of various islands would permit, and we had been entertained with the novelty of many objects among different nations; but, according to the common vicissitudes of fortune, this agreeable moment was to be replaced by a long period of fogs and frosty weather, of fasting, and of tedious uniformity. The late Abbé Chappe, in his voyage to California, (or his compiler, M. Cassini, in his name), observes [148] Pag. 22. , " that variety alone has charms for the traveller, who goes in quest of her from one country to another." His philosophy is at the same time of such an exalted nature, that he pronounces [149] Pag. 13. " the life which is led at sea to be tedious and uniform only to those who are not accustomed to look round them, and who behold all nature with the eye of indifference." Had the good Abbé been unfortunate enough to make a visit to the antarctic circle, without the company of several hundred fattened fowls, which kept him in good humour on his short trip from Cadiz to Vera Cruz, his philosophy would not have taken so high a flight. But though he found variety at sea, he was not so fortunate in Mexico [150] Pag. 22. . Here he crossed great tracts of uncultivated country and extensive forests, he saw nature in a savage state, allowed that she was rich and beautiful; but, in the space of a few days, her multiplicity of charms became insipid and uniform in his eyes. And yet this traveller assures us, that he was astronomer, botanist, zoologist, mineralogist, chymist, and philosopher!

We quitted the shores of New Zeeland with ideas very different from those of Abbé Chappe; and if any thing alleviated the dreariness of the prospect with a great part of our ship-mates, it was the hope of completing the circle round the South-Pole in a high latitude during the next inhospitable summer, and of returning to England within the space of eight months. This hope contributed to animate the spirits of our people during the greatest part of our continuance in bad weather; but in the end it vanished like a dream, and the only thought which could make them amends, was the certainty of passing another season among the happy islands in the torrid zone.

;

;

CHAP. III.

The second course towards the high southern latitudes from New Zeeland to Easter Island.

[1773. november.][Saturday 27.]THE morning after we had taken our departure, we had a N. N. W. wind, which raised the thermometer to 64 deg. The two next days it stood at 54 deg. then at 48; and when we were in about 49° of south latitude, at 44 1/2 deg. On the 28th of November, we observed a number of seals, or perhaps sea-lions, passing by us at a distance towards the land which we had left. From that time [1773. December][Monday 6.]to the 6th of December we daily saw great flocks of blue and other petrels, together with the different species of albatrosses, the skuas or grey gulls, many pinguins, and abundance of sea-weed. About seven in the evening, on that day, we were in the latitude of 51° 33' south, and long. 180°; consequently just at the point of the antipodes of London. The remembrance of domestic felicity, and of the sweets of society, called forth a sigh from every heart which felt the tender ties of filial or parental affection. We are the first Europeans, and I believe I may add, the first human beings, who have reached this point, where it is probable none will come after us. A common report prevails indeed in England concerning Sir Francis Drake, who is said to have visited the antipodes, which the legend expresses by " his having passed under the middle arch of London-bridge:" but this is a mistake, as his track lay along the coast of America, and probably originates from his having passed the periœci, or the point in 180° long. on the same circle of north latitude, on the coast of California.

In proportion as we advanced to the southward the thermometer [Friday 10.]fell; and on the 10th, in the morning, the wind coming more ahead, it descended to 37°. At noon we had reached the latitude of 59° south, without having met with any ice, though we fell in with it the preceding year on the 10th of December, between the 50th and 51st deg. of south latitude. It is difficult to account for this difference; perhaps a severe winter preceding our first course from the Cape of Good Hope, might accumulate more ice that year than the next, which is the more probable, as we learnt at the Cape that the winter had been sharper there than usual; perhaps a violent storm might break the polar ice, and drive it so far to the northward as we found it; and perhaps both these causes might concur, with others, to produce this effect.

On the 11th, at night, the cold encreased, the thermometer standing at 34 deg. and at four o'clock the next [Sunday 12.]morning a large island of floating ice was seen ahead, which we passed an hour afterwards. At eight o'clock the thermometer was already at 31 1/2 deg. the air being probably refrigerated by the ice, though we did not see more than this one piece. At noon we found the latitude to be 61° 46' south. The next morning the thermometer stood at 31 deg. and we ran to the eastward with a fresh breeze, though we had a surprising fall of snow, which filled the air to such a degree that we could not see ten yards before us. Our friend Mahine had already expressed his surprize at several little snow and hail showers on the preceding days, this phӕnomenon being utterly unknown in his country. The appearance of " white stones," which melted in his hand, was altogether miraculous in his eyes, and though we endeavoured to explain to him that cold was the cause of their formation, yet I believe his ideas on that subject were never very clear. The heavy fall of snow this day surprised him more than what he had seen before, and after a long consideration of its singular qualities, he told us he would call it the white rain when he came back to his country. He did not see the first ice on account of the early hour of the morning; but two days after, in about 65 deg. of south latitude, he was struck with astonishment upon seeing one of the largest pieces, and the day following presented him with an extensive field of ice, which blocked up our farther progress to the south, and gave him great pleasure, supposing it to be land. We told him that so far from being land, it was nothing but fresh water, which we found some difficulty to convince him off at first, till we shewed him the ice which was formed in the scuttled cask on the deck. He assured us, however, that he would at all events call this the white land, by way of distinguishing it from all the rest. Already, at New Zeeland, he had collected a number of little slender twigs, which he carefully tied in a bundle, and made use of instead of journals. For every island which he had seen and visited, after his departure from the Society Isles, he had selected a little twig; so that his collection amounted at present to nine or ten, of which he remembered the names perfectly well in the same order as we had seen them, and the white land, or whennua tèatèa, was the last. He enquired frequently how many other countries we should meet with in our way to England, and formed a separate bundle of them, which he studied every day with equal care as the first. The tediousness of this part of our voyage probably made him so eager to know how it would end; and the salt provisions, together with the cold climate, contributed to disgust him. His usual amusement was to separate the red feathers from the aprons, used in dancing, which he had purchased at Tonga-Tabboo, and to join eight or ten of them together into a little tuft, by means of coco-nut core. The rest of his time he passed in walking on deck, visiting the officers and petty officers, and warming himself by the fire in the captain's cabin. We took this opportunity to improve in the knowledge of his language, and, by degrees, revised the whole vocabulary which we had collected at the Society Isles. By this method we became possessed of a fund of useful intelligence concerning his country and the adjacent isles, which led us to make many enquiries at our subsequent return to those islands.

The ice-fields appeared, in different parts of the horizon, about us on the 15th in the morning, so that we were in a manner embayed; and, as we saw no possibility of advancing to the south, we ran to the N. N. E. to get clear of them. The weather, which was already foggy, became thicker towards noon, and made our situation, amidst a great number of floating rocks of ice, extremely dangerous. About one o'clock, whilst the people were at dinner, we were alarmed by the sudden appearance of a large island of ice just a head of us. It was absolutely impossible either to wear or tack the ship [151] i.e. To go round either with or against the wind. , on account of its proximity, and our only resource was to keep as near the wind as possible, and to try to weather the danger. We were in the most dreadful suspense for a few minutes, and though we fortunately succeeded, yet the ship passed within her own length to windward of it. Notwithstanding the constant perils to which our course exposed us in this unexplored ocean, our ship's company were far from being so uneasy as might have been expected; and, as in battle the sight of death becomes familiar and often unaffecting, so here, by daily experiencing such hair-breadth escapes, we passed unconcernedly on, as if the waves, the winds, and rocks of ice had not the power to hurt us. The pieces of ice had a variety of shapes, in the same manner as those which we had observed to the southward of the Indian Ocean; and many pyramids, obelisks, and church-spires appeared from time to time. Their height was not much inferior to that which we had observed among the first islands of ice in 1772; and many likewise resembled them in being of a great extent and perfectly level at top.

The number of birds which we had hitherto met with on our passage, would have persuaded any other voyagers but ourselves of the approach of land. We were, however, so much used to their appearance on the sea at present, as never once to form any expectation of discovering land from that circumstance. Flocks of blue petrels and pintadas, many albatrosses, with now and then a solitary skua had attended us every day; and to these, since our approach to the ice, we could join the snowy and antarctic petrels and the fulmars. However, pinguins, sea-weed, or seals, had not been observed since the 10th.

The weather, which was extremely moist and disagreeably cold, proved unfavourable to the doves and pigeons which many people had purchased at the Society and Friendly Islands, and to the singing-birds which they had been at great pains to catch alive at New Zeeland. We had five doves at our departure from this country, all which died one after another before the 16th of December, being much more exposed to the cold in our cabins, than in the sailors births. The thermometer in our cabins was never more than 5 deg. higher than in the open air on deck, and their situation abreast of the main-mast, where the strain of the ship is greatest, exposed them to currents of air, and made them admit water like sieves.

On the 16th, in the afternoon, and on the 17th, we [Friday 17.]hoisted out our boats and collected some loose pieces of ice to fill our empty casks with fresh water. The ice which we picked up was old and spungy, and impregnated with saline particles, from having long been in a state of decay; therefore did not afford us very good water, but it was drinkable, particularly if we let the pieces of ice lie on deck for some time, by which means the salt-water was almost entirely drained off. From this time till the 20th we saw no birds about us, which disappeared without any visible cause; but on that day some albatrosses appeared again.

Having left the ice behind which obstructed our passage, we had gradually advanced to the southward again, that being our principal object, and on the [Monday 20.]20th in the afternoon, we crossed the antarctic circle the second time during our voyage. The weather was wet and foggy, ice islands were numerous around us, and the gale was very brisk. Many antarctic petrels, and a whale which spouted up the water near us, seemed to indicate our entrance into the frigid zone. At night two seals appeared, which we had not seen for fourteen days past, and gave some faint hopes of seeing land to several of our shipmates; but our course disappointed their expectations, by continuing within the circle as far as 67° 12' S. lat. for several days following.

[Thursday 23.]On the 23d in the afternoon, we were surrounded with islands of ice, and the sea was in a manner covered with small fragments. The ship was therefore brought to, the boats hoisted out, and a great quantity of good ice taken on board. The birds were at present very numerous about us again, and some antarctic and other petrels were shot and taken up, which we had an opportunity of drawing and describing. About this time many persons were afflicted with violent rheumatic pains, head-aches, swelled glands, and catarrhal fevers, which some attributed to the use of ice-water. My father, who had complained of a cold for several days past, was obliged to keep his bed today, having a severe rheumatism with a fever. His complaint seemed rather to arise from the wretched accommodations which he had on board, every thing in his cabin rotting in the wet which it admitted, and being mouldy. The cold was so sensible there this day in particular, that he found only a difference of two degrees and a half between the thermometer there, and that upon the deck.

After hoisting in our boats we made sail to the northward, as much as a contrary wind permitted, during all the night and the next day. [Saturday 25.]On the 25th, the weather was clear and fair, but the wind died away to a perfect calm, upwards of ninety large ice islands being in sight at noon. This being Christmas-day, the captain according to custom, invited the officers and mates to dinner, and one of the lieutenant's entertained the petty-officers. The sailors feasted on a double portion of pudding, regaling themselves with the brandy of their allowance, which they had saved for this occasion some months before-hand, being sollicitous to get very drunk, though they are commonly sollicitous about nothing else. The sight of an immense number of icy masses, amongst which we drifted at the mercy of the current, every moment in danger of being dashed to pieces against them, could not deter the sailors from indulging in their favourite amusement. As long as they had brandy left, they would persist to keep Christmas " like Christians," though the elements had conspired together for their destruction. Their long acquaintance with a sea-faring life had inured them to all kinds of perils, and their heavy labour, with the inclemencies of weather, and other hardships, making their muscles rigid and their nerves obtuse, had communicated insensibility to the mind. It will easily be conceived, that as they do not feel for themselves sufficiently to provide for their own safety, they must be incapable of feeling for others. Subjected to a very strict command, they also exercise a tyrannical sway over those whom fortune places in their power. Accustomed to face an enemy, they breathe nothing but war. By force of habit even killing is become so much their passion, that we have seen many instances during our voyage, where they have expressed a horrid eagerness to fire upon the natives on the slightest pretences. Their way of life in general prevents their enjoying domestic comforts; and gross animal appetites fill the place of purer affections.

At last, extinct each social feeling, fell

And joyless inhumanity pervades

And petrifies the heart.

______ Thompson.

Though they are members of a civilized society, they may in some measure be looked upon as a body of uncivilized men, rough, passionate, revengeful, but likewise brave, sincere, and true to each other.

At noon the observation of the sun's altitude determined our latitude to be 66° 22' south, so that we were just returned out of the antarctic circle. We had scarcely any night during our stay in the frigid zone, so that I find several articles in my father's journal, written by the light of the sun, within a few minutes before the hour of midnight. The sun's stay below the horizon was so very short this night likewise, that we had a very strong twilight all the time. Mahine was struck with the greatest astonishment at this phӕnomenon, and would scarcely believe his senses. All our endeavours to explain it to him miscarried, and he assured us he despaired of finding belief among his countrymen, when he should come back to recount the wonders of petrified rain, and of perpetual day. The first Venetians who explored the northern extremes of the European continent, were equally surprised at the continual appearance of the sun above the horizon, and relate that they could only distinguish day from night, by the instinct of the sea-fowl, which went to roost on shore, for the space of four hours [152] Pietro Quirino sailed in April 1431, and was miserably shipwrecked at the isle of Roest or Rusten, on the coast of Norway, under the polar circle, in January 1432. ___See Navigazioni et Viaggi raccolti da G. B. Ramusio. Venet. 1574. vol. II. p. 204, 210. . As we were in all likelihood far distant from any land, this indication failed us, and we have often observed numerous birds on the wing about us all the night, and particularly great flocks of different species, so late as eleven o'clock.

At six in the evening, we counted one hundred and five large masses of ice around us from the deck, the weather continuing very clear, fair, and perfectly calm. Towards noon [Sunday 26.]the next day we were still in the same situation, with a very drunken crew, and from the mast-head observed one hundred and sixty-eight ice islands, some of which were half a mile long, and none less than the hull of the ship. The whole scene looked like the wrecks of a shattered world, or as the poets describe some regions of hell; an idea which struck us the more forcibly, as execrations, oaths, and curses re-echoed about us on all sides.

[Monday 27.]A faint breeze sprung up in the afternoon, with which we made slow advances to the northward, the number of ice islands decreasing in proportion as we receded from the antarctic circle. About four the next morning, we hoisted out our boats, and took in a fresh provision of ice. The weather changed soon after, the wind coming about to the north-eastward, which brought on much snow and sleet. My father, and twelve other persons were again much afflicted with rheumatic pains, and confined to their beds. The scurvy did not yet appear under any dangerous form in the ship, and all those who had any slight symptoms of it, amongst whom I was one, drank plentifully of the fresh wort, quite warm, twice a day, and abstained as much as possible from salt-diet. A general languor and sickly look however, manifested itself in almost every person's face, which threatened us with more dangerous consequences. Captain Cook himself was likewise pale and lean, entirely lost his appetite, and laboured under a perpetual costiveness.

[1774. January.][Saturday 1.]We advanced to the northward as much as the winds would permit us, and lost sight of the ice on the first of January 1774, in 59° 7' S. latitude. [Tuesday 4.]On the 4th, the wind blowing from the westward was very boisterous, and obliged us to keep all our sails double-reefed; the sea ran high, and the ship worked very heavily, rolling violently from side to side. This continued till the 6th at noon, [Thursday 6.]when, having reached 51° of S.latitude, we bore away from the wind, to the N. N. E. We were now within a few degrees of the track which we had made in June and July last, in going from New Zeeland to Taheitee, and had directed our course towards it, in order to leave no considerable part of this great ocean unexplored. As far as we had hitherto advanced, we had found no land, not even indications of land; our first track had crossed the South Sea in the middle latitudes, or between 40 and 50 degrees. In our course till Christmas, we had explored the greatest part of it between 60 degrees and the antarctic circle; and the present course to the northward had crossed the space between the two former runs. If any land has escaped us, it must be an island, whose distance from Europe, and situation in an uncouth climate cannot make it valuable to this country. It is obvious that to search a sea of such extent as the South Sea, in order to be certain of the existence, or non-existence of a small island, would require many voyages in numberless different tracks, and cannot be effected in a single expedition. But it is sufficient for us, to have proved that no large land or continent exists in the South Sea within the temperate zone, and that if it exists at all, we have at least confined it within the antarctic circle.

The long continuance in these cold climates began now to hang heavily on our crew, especially as it banished all hope of returning home this year, which had hitherto supported their spirits. At first a painful despondence, owing to the dreary prospect of another year's cruize to the South, seemed painted in every countenance; till by degrees they resigned themselves to their fate, with a kind of sullen indifference. It must be owned however, that nothing could be more dejecting than the entire ignorance of our future destination, which, without any apparent reason, was constantly kept a secret to every person in the ship.

We now stood to the north-eastward for a few days, till we came so far as 47° 52' south latitude, where the thermometer rose to 52 degrees. On that day, which was the 11th, [Monday 11.]at noon, the course was directed to the S. E. again, though this frequent and sudden change of climate could not fail of proving very hurtful to our health in general. [Saturday 15.]On the 15th the wind encreased very much, and in a short time blew a tempestuous gale, which took

__________the russian billows by the top

Curling their monstrous heads and hanging them

With deaf'ning clamours in the slippery shrouds.

Shakespeare.

A nine o'clock a huge mountainous wave struck the ship on the beam, and filled the decks with a deluge of water. It poured through the sky-light over our heads, and extinguished the candle, leaving us for a moment in doubt, whether we were not entirely overwhelmed and sinking into the abyss. Every thing was afloat in my father's cabin, and his bed was thoroughly soaked. His rheumatism, which had now afflicted him above a fortnight, was still so violent as to have almost deprived him of the use of his legs, and his pains redoubled in the morning. [Sunday 16.]Our situation at present was indeed very dismal, even to those who preserved the blessing of health; to the sick, whose crippled limbs were tortured with excessive pain, it was insupportable. The ocean about us had a furious aspect, and seemed incensed at the presumption of a few intruding mortals. A gloomy melancholy air loured on the brows of our shipmates, and a dreadful silence reigned amongst us. Salt meat, our constant diet, was become loathsome to all, and even to those who had been bred to a nautical life from their tender years: the hour of dinner was hateful to us, for the well known smell of the victuals had no sooner reached our nose, than we found it impossible to partake of them with a hearty appetite.

It will appear from hence that this voyage was not to be compared to any preceding one, for the multitude of hardships and distresses which attended it. Our predecessors in the South Sea had always navigated within the tropic, or at least in the best parts of the temperate zone; they had almost constantly enjoyed mild easy weather, and sailed in sight of lands, which were never so wretchedly destitute as not to afford them refreshments from time to time. Such a voyage would have been merely a party of pleasure to us; continually entertained with new and often agreeable objects, our minds would have been at ease, our conversation cheerful, our bodies healthy, and our whole situation desirable and happy. Ours was just the reverse of this; our southern cruizes were uniform and tedious in the highest degree; the ice, the fogs, the storms and ruffled surface of the sea formed a disagreeable scene, which was seldom cheered by the reviving beams of the sun; the climate was rigorous and our food detestable. In short, we rather vegetated than lived; we withered, and became indifferent to all that animates the soul at other times. We sacrificed our health, our feelings, our enjoyments, to the honour of pursuing a track unattempted before. This was indeed as the poet says,

______ propter vitam vivendi perdere causas. Juvenal.

The crew were as much distressed as the officers, from another cause. Their biscuit, which had been sorted at New Zeeland, baked over again, and then packed up, was now in the same decayed state as before. This was owing partly to the revisal, which had been so rigorous, that many a bad biscuit was preserved among those that were eatable, and partly to the neglect of the casks, which had not been sufficiently fumigated and dried. Of this rotten bread the people only received two thirds of their usual allowance, from œconomical principles; but, as that portion is hardly sufficient, supposing it to be all eatable, it was far from being so when nearly one half of it was rotten. However, they continued in that distressful situation till this day, when the first mate came to the captain and complained bitterly that he and the people had not wherewith to satisfy the cravings of the stomach, producing, at the same time, the rotten and stinking remains of his biscuit. Upon this the crew were put to full allowance. The captain seemed to recover again as we advanced to the southward, but all those who were afflicted with rheumatisms continued as much indisposed as ever.

[Thursday 20.]The first ice islands which we met with on this run were in 62° 30' south, on the 20th, but they did not accumulate in number in proportion to our progress, so that we [Wednesd. 26.]crossed the antarctic circle again on the 26th, without seeing more than a few solitary pieces. On that day we were amused with the appearance of land; for after standing on towards it for some hours, it vanished in clouds. [Thursday 27.]The next day, at noon, we were in 67° 52' south; consequently to the southward of any of our former tracks, and met with no ice to stop us. The blue petrels, the little storm petrels, and the pintadas still accompanied us, but albatrosses had left us some time ago. We were now once more in the regions of perpetual day [153] In the frozen zone, where the sun remains six months above and six months below the horizon, dividing the year into one long day and night. , and had sunshine at the hour of midnight.

[Friday 28.]On the 28th, in the afternoon, we passed a large bed of broken ice, hoisted out the boats, and took up a great quantity, which afforded a seasonable supply of fresh water. At midnight the thermometer was not lower than 34°, and the next morning we enjoyed the mildest sunshine we had ever experienced in the frigid zone. My father therefore ventured upon deck for the first time after a month's confinement.

We now entertained hopes of penetrating to the south as far as other navigators have done towards the north pole; but on the 30th, about seven o'clock in the morning, we discovered a solid ice-field of immense extent before us, which bore from E. to W. A bed of fragments floated all round this field, which seemed to be raised several feet high above the level of the water. A vast number of icy masses, some of a very great height, were irregularly piled up upon it, as far as the eye could reach. Our latitude was at this time 71° 10' south, consequently less than 19 deg. from the pole; but as it was impossible to proceed farther, we put the ship about, well satisfied with our perilous expedition, and almost persuaded that no navigator will care to come after, and much less attempt to pass beyond us. Our longitude at this time was nearly 106° W. The thermometer here was at 32°, and a great many pinguins were heard croaking round us, but could not be seen on account of the foggy weather which immediately succeeded.

As often as we had hitherto penetrated to the southward, we had met with no land, but been stopped sooner or later by a solid ice-field, which extended before us as far as we could see. At the same time we had always found the winds moderate and frequently easterly in these high latitudes, in the same manner as they are said to be in the northern frozen zone. From these circumstances my father had been led to suppose, that all the south pole, to the distance of 20 degrees, more or less, is covered with solid ice, of which only the extremities are annually broken by storms, consumed by the action of the sun, and regenerated in winter.

_______stat glacies iners

Menses per omnes.

_______ Horat.

This opinion is the less exceptionable, since there seems to be no absolute necessity for the existence of land towards the formation of ice [154] See vol. I. page 95. , and because we have little reason to suppose that there actually is any land of considerable extent in the frigid zone.

[1774. February.][Saturday 5.]We ran to the northward with moderate winds till the 5th of February, when we got a fine fresh breeze after a short calm. The day after it shifted to S. E. and freshened so as to blow very hard at night, and split several sails. As it was favourable for the purpose of advancing to the northward, the only circumstance that afforded us comfort, we were far from being concerned at its violence, and in [Tuesday 8.]the next twenty-four hours made upwards of three degrees of latitude. The same gale assisted us till the 12th, when we observed the latitude to be 50° 15' south, our thermometer being once more returned to the milder temperature of 48 degrees. We were now told that we should spend the winter season, which was coming on apace, among the tropical islands of the Pacific Ocean, in the same manner as we had passed that immediately preceding. The prospect of making new discoveries, and of enjoying the excellent refreshments which those islands afford, entirely revived our hopes, and made us look on our continuance on the western side of Cape Horne with some degree of satisfaction.

A great number of our people were however afflicted with very severe rheumatic pains, which deprived them of the use of their limbs; but their spirits were so low, that they had no fever. Though the use of that excellent prophylactic the sour krout, prevented the appearance of the scurvy during all the cold weather, yet being made of cabbage, it is not so nutritive that we could live upon it without the assistance of biscuit and salt-beef. But the former of these being rotten, and the other almost consumed by the salt, it is obvious that no wholesome juices could be secreted from thence, which might have kept the body strong and vigorous. Under these difficulties all our patients recovered very slowly, having nothing to restore their strength; and my father, who had been in exquisite torments during the greatest part of our southern cruize, was afflicted with tooth-aches, swelled cheeks, sore-throat, and universal pain till the middle of February, when he ventured on deck perfectly emaciated. The warm weather which was beneficial to him, proved fatal to captain Cook's constitution. The disappearance of his bilious complaint during our last push to the south, had not been so sincere, as to make him recover his appetite. The return to the north therefore brought on a dangerous obstruction, which the captain very unfortunately slighted, and concealed from every person in the ship, at the same time endeavouring to get the better of it by taking hardly any sustenance. This proceeding, instead of removing, encreased the evil, his stomach being already weak enough before. He was afflicted with violent pains, which in the space of a few days confined him to his bed, and forced him to have recourse to medicines. He took a purge, but instead of producing the desired effect, it caused a violent vomiting, which was assisted immediately by proper emetics. All attempts however to procure a passage through his bowels were ineffectual; his food and medicines were thrown up, and in a few days a most dreadful hiccough appeared, which lasted for upwards of twenty-four hours, with such astonishing violence that his life was entirely despaired of. Opiates and glysters had no effect, till repeated hot baths, and plasters of theriaca applied on his stomach, had relaxed his body and intestines. This however, was not effected till he had lain above a week in the most imminent danger. Our servant fell ill about the same time with the captain, of the same disorder, and narrowly escaped, but continued weak and unserviceable the greatest part of our cruize between the tropics.

During this time we advanced to the northward very [Tuesday 22.]fast, so that on the 22d we reached 36° 10 S. latitude, where the albatrosses left us. Our longitude being about 94 1/2 degrees west from Greenwich, we steered to the south-westward, in quest of a supposed discovery of Juan Fernandez, which, according to Juan Luis Arias, a Spanish author, is said to lie in 40° south latitude, and by Mr. Dalrymple's chart in 90° west from London [155] See Mr. Dalryple's Historical Collection, vol. I. p. 53, and the Chart. . We stood [Friday 25.]on to the westward till the 25th at noon, where being in 37° 50' S. and about 101° W. and seeing no signs of land, we altered our course something to the northward. The dangerous situation of captain Cook, was perhaps the reason, why our track was not continued farther to the south, so as to put this matter entirely out of doubt for the future. It was indeed of the utmost importance at present, to hasten to a place of refreshment, that being the only chance to preserve his life.

On the 26th, captain Cook felt some relief from the medicines which had been administered to him, and during the three following days, recovered so far as to be able to sit up sometimes, and take a little soup. Next to Providence it was chiefly owing to the skill of our surgeon, Mr. Patton, that he recovered to prosecute the remaining part of our voyage, with the same spirit with which it had hitherto been carried on. The care and assiduity with which this worthy man, watched him during his whole illness, cannot be sufficiently extolled, as all our hopes of future discoveries, as well as union in the ship, depended solely on the preservation of the captain. The surgeon's extreme attention however, had nearly cost him his own life. Having taken, no rest for many nights together, and seldom venturing to sleep an hour by day, he was so much exhausted, that we trembled for his life, upon which that of almost every man in the ship in great measure depended. He was taken ill with a bilious disorder, which was dangerous on account of the extreme weakness of his stomach, and it is more than probable, that if we had not speedily fallen in with land, from whence we collected some slight refreshments, he must have fallen a sacrifice to that rigorous perseverance and extreme punctuality with which he discharged the several duties of his profession.

We had easterly winds ever since the 22d of February, which was probably owing to the situation of the sun, still continuing in the southern hemisphere. The weather was warm and comfortable again, the thermometer being at 70 degrees; and some grey terns were seen from time to time, which according to our friend Mahine's account, never went to a great distance from land. [1774. March.][Tuesday 1.]On the first of March, some bonitos appeared swiftly swimming past the ship, and the next day, being in 30 1/2 degrees of latitude, we saw tropic birds again.

The scurvy now appeared with very strong symptoms in the ship, and I was particularly afflicted with it. Excruciating pains, livid blotches, rotten gums, and swelled legs, brought me extremely low in a few days, almost before I was aware of the disorder; and my stomach being very weak, through abstinence from an unwholesome and loathed diet, I could not take the wort in sufficient quantity to remove my complaint. The same case existed with regard to a number of other people, who crawled about the decks with the greatest difficulty.

We had almost calm weather from the 3d to the 6th, the sky was clear, and the warmth and serenity of the weather remarkably pleasing; but we were impatient to proceed to a place of refreshment, and this delay ill suited with our wishes.

On the 5th, at night, we saw some towering clouds and a haze on the horizon to the southward, from whence we hoped for a fair wind. Already, during night, we had some smart showers, and at eight o'clock the next morning we saw the surface of the sea curled to the south-eastward, upon which we trimmed our sails, and advanced again with a fair wind. [Monday 7.]The next morning four large albecores were caught, the least of which weighed twenty-three pounds. They afforded us a most delicious repast, it being now an hundred days since we had tasted any fresh fish. Shearwaters, terns, noddies, gannets, and men of war birds appeared numerous about us, hunting the shoals of flying-fish which our ship, the bonitos, albecores, and dolphins had frightened out of the water.

[Tuesday 8.]We reached the 27th degree of S. latitude on the 8th at noon, and then shaped our course due west in search of Easter Island, discovered by Jacob Roggewein in 1722, and since visited by the Spaniards in 1770 [156] See Mr. Dalrymple's Historical Collection of Voyages, vol. II. pag. 85; also his letter to Dr. Hawkesworth, 1773. , who gave it the name of St. Charles's Island. [Thursday 10.]On the 10th, in the morning, the birds of the grey tern-kind were innumerable about us, whilst we advanced at the rate of seven miles an hour. We lay to during night, being apprehensive of falling in with the land, which we actually discovered at five o'clock the next morning. The joy which this fortunate event spread on every countenance is scarcely to be described. We had been an hundred and three days out of sight of land; and the rigorous weather to the south, the fatigues of continual attendance during storms, or amidst dangerous masses of ice, the sudden changes of climate, and the long continuance of a noxious diet, all together had emaciated and worn out our crew. The expectation of a speedy end to their sufferings, and the hope of finding the land stocked with abundance of fowls and planted with fruits, according to the accounts of the Dutch navigator, now filled them with uncommon alacrity and cheerfulness.

E l'uno a'l altro il mostra, e in tanto oblia

La noia, e'l mal de la passata via.

Tasso.

We advanced but slowly towards the land by day, to the great disappointment of all on board, who became more eager in proportion as new difficulties arose to prolong their distresses. The land appeared of a moderate height, and divided into several hills, which gently sloped from their summits; its extent did not seem to be considerable, and we were at too great a distance to be able to form any conjecture as to its productions. [Saturday 12.]The next morning we were becalmed within five leagues of the island, which had then a black and somewhat disagreeable appearance. We amused ourselves with catching sharks, several of which swam about the ship, and eagerly swallowed the hook, which was baited with salt pork or beef. In the afternoon a breeze sprung up, with which we stood towards the shore, in great hopes of reaching an anchoring-place before night. The land did not look very promising as we advanced, there being little verdure, and scarcely any bushes upon it; but to us who had lingered so long under all the distresses of a tedious cruize at sea, the most barren rock would have been a welcome sight. In our way we perceived a great number of black pillars standing upright, near two hummocks, and in different groups. They seemed to be the same which Roggewein's people took for idols [157] see Mr. Dalrymple's Historical Collection of Voyages, &c. vol. II. p. 91 ; but we guessed already, at that time, that they were such monuments, in memory of the dead, as the Taheitians and other people in the South Seas erect near burying-places, and call E-Tee.

The wind, which was contrary and very faint, the approach of night, and the want of an anchoring-place on the east side of the island, disappointed us once more, and forced us to pass another night under sail, during which we saw several fires in the neighbourhood of the pillars above-mentioned. The Dutch, who likewise observed them, called them sacrifices to the idols; but it seems to be more probable that they were only lighted to dress the food of the natives.

We passed the night in making several trips, in order to keep to windward of the island and as near it as possible, resolving to pursue our search of anchorage the next day. In the mean time we reflected on the excellent means of ascertaining the longitude, with which our ship had been furnished, and which had carried us exactly to this island, though several former navigators, such as Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville had missed it, after taking their departure from islands at so short a distance from it as those of Juan Fernandez [158] Juan Fernandez, properly so called or la de Tierra, and la Mas a fuera. . Captain Carteret it seems was only misled by an erroneous latitude in the geographical tables which he consulted; but this could not be the case with the rest. We had the greatest reason to admire the ingenious construction of the two watches which we had on board, one executed by Mr. Kendal, exactly after the model of that made by Mr. Harrison, and the other by Mr. Arnold on his own plan, both which went with great regularity. The last was unfortunately stopped immediately after our departure from New Zeeland in June 1773, but the other went till our return to England, and gave general satisfaction. It appears, however, that in a long run the observations of distances of the moon from the sun or stars, are more to be depended upon, if they be made with good instruments, than the watches or time-keepers, which frequently change their rates of going. The method of deducing the longitude from the distances of the sun and moon, or moon and stars, one of the most valuable acquisitions to the art of navigation, must immortalize its first inventors. Tobias Mayer a German, and professor at Gottingen was the first who undertook the laborious task of calculating tables for this purpose, for which his heirs received a parliamentary reward. Since his death the method was so much facilitated by additional calculations, that the longitude will perhaps never be determined with greater precision at sea by any other means.

The latitude of Easter Island corresponds within a minute or two with that which is marked in admiral Roggewein's own MS. journal [159] See the Lives of the Governors of Batavia. __It is there expressed 27° 04' S. latitude, and 265° 42' E. from Tenerif, or 110° 45' W. from London. , and his longitude is only one degree erroneous, our observations having ascertained it in 109° 46' west from Greenwich. The Spanish accounts of the latitude are likewise exact, but they err in longitude about thirty leagues.

;

CHAP. IV.

An Account of Easter Island, and our Stay there.

[1774. March.][Sunday 13.]ON the 13th, early in the morning, we ran close to the south point of the island, where the shore rose perpendicularly, and consisted of broken rocks, whose cavernous appearance, and black or ferruginous colour, seemed to have been produced by subterraneous fire. Two detached rocks lay about a quarter of a miles off this point; one of them was singular on account of its shape, resembling a huge column or obelisk, and both were the habitations of numerous sea-fowls, which stunned our ears with their discordant screams. Soon after we opened another point about ten miles distant from this, and as we advanced we perceived the ground gently sloping to the sea. On the slope we discovered several plantations by the help of our glasses; but the surface of the isle in general appeared to be extremely dreary and parched, and these plantations were so thinly scattered upon it, that they did not flatter our hopes of meeting with considerable refreshments. However, our eyes, long unused to the enchanting prospect of verdure, were constantly directed towards the shore, where we distinguished a number of people nearly naked, hastily running down from the hills towards the sea-side. We could not perceive that they had any arms, which we immediately interpreted into a sign of a peaceable disposition. In a few minutes we saw them launch a canoe, in which two men came off towards us. They were along side in a short time, having paddled very briskly, and immediately called out for a rope, naming it by the same word as the Taheitians. We had no sooner thrown them the rope, than they tied a great cluster of ripe bananas to it, making signs for us to haul it up. The sudden emotions of joy in every countenance, at the sight of this fruit, are scarcely to be described; they can only be felt in their full extent by people in the same wretched situation with ourselves at that time. At least fifty persons endeavoured to begin a conversation with the people in the canoe, who being addressed by so many at once, could not answer one of them. Captain Cook sent for some ribbands, to which he tied some medals and beads, and lowered them down in return for their present. They seemed to admire them much, but hastened ashore with them immediately. In dropping astern, they fastened a small piece of cloth to a fishing-line which we towed after us; it was immediately hauled up, and appeared to be made of the same bark as the Taheitian cloth, and coloured yellow. From a few words which they pronounced, we concluded their language to be a dialect of the Taheitian, which we had now found in both extremities of the South Sea. Their whole appearance confirmed us in this opinion, and proved them issued from the same stock. They were of a middle stature, but rather thin; their features resembled those of the Taheitians, but were less agreeable: one of them had a beard, which was cut to the length of about half an inch; the other was a youth of about seventeen. They had punctures of the same nature with those used by the natives of the Society and Friendly Islands and of New Zeeland; but their whole body, which was perfectly naked, was marked with them. The greatest singularity which we observed about them was the size of their ears, of which the lap or extremity was stretched out so as almost to rest on the shoulder, and pierced by a very large hole, through which four or five fingers might be thrust with ease. This circumstance entirely agreed with the description which the serjeant-major of Roggewein's ship gives of these people [160] See Mr. Dalrymple's Historical Collection, vol. II. p. 90, 94, or Histoire de l'Expedition de Trois Vaisseaux, tome I. p. 133, a la Haye 1739. . Their canoe was another curiosity, being patched up of many pieces, each of which was not more than four or five inches wide, and two or three feet long. Its length might be about ten or twelve feet, its head and stern were raised considerably, but its middle was very low. It had an outrigger or balancer made of three slender poles, and each of the men had a paddle, of which the blade was likewise composed of several pieces. This description also exactly corresponds with the Dutch account of Roggewein's voyage, printed at Dort in 1728 [161] See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection, vol. II. pag. 111. ; and sufficiently proved that the island is very destitute of wood, though the contrary is ascertained in the serjeant-major's relation of that voyage [162] Ibid. vol. II. p. 95; or Histoire, &c. vol. I. p. 138. .

Though we struck soundings opposite the place from whence this canoe put off, yet in hopes of finding a better place of anchorage, we ran along the coast of the island, till we came in sight of its northern extremity, which we had already seen the day before from the other side. But being disappointed in our expectation, we put about with a view to return to the place which we had left. A great number of black pillars stood along the shore, many of which were elevated on platforms consisting of several ranges of stone. We could now distinguish something resembling a human head and shoulders towards their upper end; but the lower part appeared to be a rude stone, without being carved into a resemblance of the human shape. Sometimes we perceived two, sometimes four, and even five together in a row; but some were likewise placed by themselves. We saw but few plantations towards the north end, the land being much more bluff or steep there, than about the middle of the island, and we could easily perceive that there was not a tree upon the whole island, which exceeded the height of ten feet.

In the afternoon we hoisted out a boat, and the master went towards the shore to take soundings in the road, from whence the canoe had come off to us. As soon as the natives perceived our boat on the water, they assembled along shore, near the place to which our people seemed to direct their course. Among a croud of naked men, we saw some who seemed to be dressed in a bright cloth of a yellow, or rather orange colour, from whence we suspected that they were their principal people. We now likewise began to discern their houses, which seemed to be extremely low and long, highest in the middle, and sloping down towards both extremities. They much resembled a canoe turned with the keel or bottom upwards. In the middle there seemed to be a small entrance or door, which was so low, that a man of a common size must stoop to get in. Towards evening we let go our anchor in about forty fathom, gravelly bottom off the S. W. part of the island. The master returned presently after, and brought one of the natives in the boat with him. This bold fellow had jumped into the boat without any ceremony or invitation, while it was close to the shore, and expressly desired to be brought on board. He was of the middle size, about five feet eight inches high, and remarkably hairy on the breast and all over the body. His colour was a chestnut brown, his beard strong, but clipped short, and of a black colour, as was also the hair of his head, which was likewise cut short. His ears were very long, almost hanging on his shoulders, and his legs punctured in compartments after a taste which we had observed no where else. He had only a belt round his middle, from whence a kind of net-work descended before, too thin to conceal any thing from the sight. A string was tied about his neck, and a flat bone, something shaped like a tongue, and about five inches long, was fastened to it, and hung down on the breast. This, he told us, was a porpoise's bone (eevee toharra), expressing it exactly by the same words which a Taheitian would have made use of. To explain himself better, he also called it eevee-eeka, which we well understood to signify the bone of a fish [163] Eeya at Taheitee, and eeka at New Zeeland and the Friendly Isles mean a fish. . He was no sooner seated in the boat, than he complained of being cold by shivering, and making various gestures of a very intelligible nature. Mr. Gilbert, the master, therefore gave him a jacket, and put a hat on his head, and in that dress he appeared upon deck. The captain and passengers presented him with nails, medals, and strings of beads, the last of which, he desired to have tied round his head. At the beginning he shewed some marks of fear or diffidence, asking whether we should kill him as an enemy ( matte-toa?) but upon being assured of good treatment and friendship on our part, he seemed perfectly secure and unconcerned, and talked of nothing but dancing ( heeva). It was with some difficulty that we understood him at first; but having enquired for the names by which he distinguished the parts of the body, we soon found them to be nearly the same with those which are used in the Society Isles. If we mentioned a word which he did not comprehend, he repeated it several times with a look which strongly expressed his ignorance of it. As night approached, he said he wanted to go to sleep, and complained of cold. My father gave him a large Taheitee cloth of the thickest sort, in which he wrapped himself, saying he found it comfortably warm. He was afterwards conducted into the master's cabin, where he law down on a table, and slept very quietly the whole night. Mahineur new visitor several times, but was interrupted by the questions which many other persons in the ship put to him.

[Monday 14.]We dragged our anchor during night, and drove off the bank, so that we were obliged to set sail again, in order to recover our situation. Immediately after breakfast, captain Cook went ashore with the native, whose name was Maroowahai, together with Mahine, my father, Dr. Sparrman, and myself, though my feet and legs were still swelled excessively, and I was hardly able to walk. We found a snug cove for boats, among a number of rocks which sheltered the landing-place from the mountainous swell that tumbled in upon the shore. About a hundred, or a hundred and fifty natives were assembled on the spot where we landed, almost all of them naked, some having only a belt round the middle, from whence a small bit of cloth, six or eight inches long, or a little net, hung down before. A very few of them had a cloak which reached to the knees, made of cloth, resembling that of Taheitee in the texture, and stitched or quilted with thread to make it the more lasting. Most of these cloaks were painted yellow with the turmeric-root. The people did not make the least unfriendly motion at our landing, but expressed a prodigious dread of our fire-arms, of which they seemed to know the deadly effects. We saw but few arms among them; some however had lances or spears, made of thin ill-shapen sticks, and pointed with a sharp triangular piece of a black glassy lava ( pumex vitreus, Linn.) commonly called Iceland agate. One of them had a fighting club, made of a thick piece of wood about three feet long, carved at one extremity; and a few others had short wooden clubs, exactly resembling some of the New Zeeland patoo-patoos, which are made of bone. We observed some who had European hats and caps, chequered cotton handkerchiefs, and ragged jackets of blue woollen-cloth, which were so many indubitable testimonies of the visit which the Spaniards had made to this island in 1770. The general appearance of the natives seemed to argue a great sterility of the country. They were inferior in stature to the natives of the Society and Friendly Isles, and to those of New Zeeland, there being not a single person amongst them, who might be reckoned tall. Their body was likewise lean, and their face thinner than that of any people we had hitherto seen in the South Sea. Their want of cloathing, and a great eagerness to obtain out goods without offering any thing in return, seemed altogether to be sufficient marks of poverty. They were all prodigiously punctured on every part of the body, the face in particular; and their women, who were very small and slender limbed, had likewise punctures on the face, which resembled the patches sometimes worn by our ladies. The number of women in the croud did not exceed ten or twelve; they were seldom satisfied with their natural clear brown colour, but painted the whole face with a reddish brown ruddle, over which they laid on the bright orange of the turmeric-root; or ornamented themselves with elegant streaks of white shell-lime. The art of painting is therefore not confined to those ladies who have the happiness to imitate French fashions. The women were all dressed in pieces of cloth, which appeared scanty when compared to the Taheitian dresses. Both sexes had thin, but not savage features, though the little shelter which their barren country offers against the sun-beams, had contracted their brows sometimes, and drawn the muscles of the face up towards the eye. Their noses were not very broad, but rather flat between the eyes; their lips strong, though not so thick as those of negroes; and their hair black and curling, but always cut short, so as not to exceed three inches. Their eyes were dark brown, and rather small, the white being less clear than in other nations of the South Seas. Their ears were remarkable for the great length of the lap, which frequently hung on the shoulder, and was pierced with so large a hole, that the extremity could be tucked up through it. In order to bring it to this size, they wore a leaf of a sugar cane, which is very elastic, rolled up in it like a scroll; by which means it was always on the stretch. The violent action of the sun upon their heads has forced them to contrive various coverings for that part. Many of the men wore a ring about two inches thick, strongly and curiously plaited of grass, and fitting close round the head. This was covered with great quantities of the long black feathers which decorate the neck of the man of war bird. Others had huge bushy caps of brown gulls feathers, which were almost as large as the full bottomed wigs of European lawyers; and still others wore a simple hoop of wood, round which a number of the long white feathers of a gannet hung nodding, and waved in the wind. The women wore a great wide cap, made of very neat mat-work; it was pointed forwards, formed a ridge along the top, and two large lobes behind on each side, which we found extremely cooling for the head. Mr. Hodges drew the figure of a woman with this cap on, and of a man with one of the other head dresses; both are extremely characteristic of the nation, and have been engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. The only ornaments which we saw among them, were the flat pieces of bone in the shape of a tongue, or like a laurel leaf, which both sexes wore hanging on their breast, together with some necklaces and ear-jewels made of shells.

After staying among the natives for some time on the beach, we began to walk into the country. The whole ground was covered with rocks and stones of all sizes, which seemed to have been exposed to a great fire, where they had acquired a black colour and porous appearance. Two of three shrivelled species of grasses grew up among these stones, and in a slight degree softened the desolate appearance of the country. About fifteen yards from the landing-place we saw a perpendicular wall of square hewn stones, about a foot and a half or two feet long, and one foot broad. Its greatest height was about seven or eight feet, but it gradually sloped on both sides, and its length might be about twenty yards. A remarkable circumstance was the junction of these stones, which were laid after the most excellent rules of art, fitting in such a manner as to make a durable piece of architecture. The stone itself of which they are cut is not of great hardness being a blackish brown cavernous and brittle stony lava. The ground rose from the water's side upwards; so that another wall, parallel to the first, about twelve yards from it and facing the country, was not above two or three feet high. The whole area between the two walls was filled up with soil and covered with grass. About fifty yards farther to the south there was another elevated area, of which the surface was paved with square stones exactly similar to those which formed the walls. In the midst of this area, there was a pillar consisting of a single stone, which represented a human figure to the waist, about twenty feet high, and upwards of five feet wide. The workmanship of this figure was rude, and spoke the arts in their infancy. The eyes, nose, and mouth were scarcely marked on a lumpish ill-shaped head; and the ears, which were excessively long, quite in the fashion of the country, were better executed than any other part, though a European artist would have been ashamed of them. The neck was clumsy and short, and the shoulders and arms very slightly represented. On the top of the head a huge round cylinder of stone was placed upright, being above five feet in diameter and in height. This cap, which resembled the head-dress of some Egyptian divinity, consisted of a different stone from the rest of the pillar, being of a more reddish colour; and had a hole on each side, as if it had been made round by turning. The cap together with the head, made one half of the whole pillar which appeared above ground. We did not observe that the natives paid any worship to these pillars, yet they seemed to hold them in some kind of veneration, as they sometimes expressed a dislike when we walked over the paved area or pedestals, or examined the stone of which it consisted.

A few of the natives accompanied us farther on into the country, where we had seen some bushes at a distance, which we hoped would afford us something new. Our road was intolerably rugged, over heaps of volcanic stones, which rolled away under our feet, and against which we continually hurt ourselves. The natives, who were accustomed to this desolate ground, skipped nimbly from stone to stone without the least difficulty. In our way we saw several black rats running about, which it seems are common to every island in the South Sea. Being arrived at the shrubbery which we had in view, we found it was nothing but a small plantation of the paper mulberry, of which here, as well as at Taheitee, they make their cloth. Its stems were from two to four feet high, and planted in rows, among very large rocks, where the rains had washed a little soil together. In the neighbourhood of these we saw some bushes of the hibiscus populneus, Linn. which is common also in the Society Isles, where it is one of the numerous plants made use of to dye yellow; and likewise a mimosa, which is the only shrub that affords the natives sticks for their clubs and pattoo-pattoos, and wood sufficient to patch up a canoe.

We found the face of the country more barren and ruinous the farther we advanced. The small number of inhabitants, who met us at the landing-place, seemed to have been the bulk of the nation, since we met no other people on our walk; and yet for these few we did not see above ten or twelve huts, though the view commanded a great part of the island. One of the sightliest of these was situated on a little hillock, about half a mile from the sea, which we ascended. Its construction was such as evinced the poverty and wretched condition of its owners. The foundation consisted of stones about a foot long, laid level with the surface in two curve lines, converging at the extremities. These lines were about six feet asunder in the middle, but not above one foot at the ends. In every stone of this foundation we observed one or two holes, in each of which a stake was inserted. The middlemost stakes were six feet high, but the others gradually diminished to two feet. On the top the stakes all converged, and were tied by strings to transverse sticks, by which they were kept together. A kind of thatch, made of small sticks, and covered with a neat mat-work of sugar-cane leaves, leaned on each row of stakes, forming a very sharp ridge or angle at the top, and resting firmly on the ground at the bottom. A hole was left on one side, about eighteen inches or two feet high, over which the people had built a round projecting funnel to keep off the wet. We crept on all fours into this opening, and found the inside of the hut perfectly naked and empty, there being not so much as a wisp of straw to lie down upon. We could not stand upright in any part except just in the middle, and the whole place appeared dark and dismal. The natives told us they passed the night in these huts, and we easily conceived their situation to be uncomfortable, especially as we saw so very few of them, that they must be crammed full, unless the generality of the people lie in the open air, and leave these wretched dwellings to their chiefs, or make use of them only in bad weather.

Besides these huts, we observed some heaps of stones piled up into little hillocks, which had one steep perpendicular side, where a hole went under ground. The space within could be but very small, and yet it is probable that these cavities likewise served to give shelter to the people during night. They may, however, communicate with natural caverns, which are very common in the lava currents of volcanic countries. Such caverns are very frequent in Iceland famous for having been the dwelling-places of the ancient inhabitants. Mr. Ferber, the first mineralogical historian of Vesuvius, has noticed such a subterraneous hole in one of the modern lavas of that mountain. We should have been glad to have ascertained this circumstance, but the natives always denied us admittance into these places.

A plantation of sugar-canes and one of bananas adjoined to the house we had visited, and both were in excellent order, considering the stony quality of the ground. The bananas were all growing in holes one foot deep, which we supposed to be contrived for collecting the rain, and preserving it for a longer time about the plant. The sugar-canes were about nine or ten feet high, even in this parched country, and contained a very sweet juice, which the inhabitants presented to us very frequently, and particularly whenever we asked for something to drink. We concluded from thence that they had no water on the island; but coming back to the landing-place we met captain Cook, whom the natives had conducted to a well very close to the sea, which was cut deep into the rock, but full of impurities. When our people had cleared it, they found the water in it rather brackish, but the natives drank of it with much seeming satisfaction.

Captain Cook had not been very fortunate in trading with the people. They seemed indeed to be so destitute as to have no provisions to spare. A few matted baskets full of sweet potatoes, some sugar-canes, bunches of bananas, and two or three small fowls ready dressed, were the whole purchase which he had made for a few iron tools, and some Taheitee cloth. He had presented the people with beads, but they always threw them away with contempt, as far as ever they could. Whatever else they saw about us, they were desirous of possessing, though they had nothing to give in return. Their number was now decreased nearly to one half, many of them having probably gone home to their dinners; however, the number of women was always remarkably small in proportion to the men, there being not above twelve or fifteen at our first landing, and about six or seven when we embarked again. They were neither reserved nor chaste, and for the trifling consideration of a small piece of cloth, some of our sailors obtained the gratification of their desires. Their features were mild enough, and the large pointed cap gave them the air of professed wantons.

We returned on board the ship before noon, and found it at anchor, though we had left it under sail. The fresh fruits and roots which we brought on board, were immediately distributed as far as they would go, and proved a most reasonable refreshment to our sick. We tasted the fowls, which seemed to have been dressed under-ground, by means of hot stones being wrapped up in green leaves, in the manner practised amongst all the nations of the South Sea, whom we had hitherto visited. The potatoes were of a gold-yellow colour, and as sweet as carrots, therefore not equally palatable to us all; however, they were extremely nourishing, and very antiscorbutic. The juices of this, and all the other vegetables on this island, seemed to have been concentrated by the dryness of the soil. Their bananas were reckoned very delicious in their kind, by those who were fond of this fruit, and their sugar-canes were sweeter than any we had tasted at Taheitee.

In the afternoon we returned on shore again, and an officer went with another boat to fill water at the well. We found but few natives near the landing-place, and among them was one, who appeared to have some little authority, and readily accompanied the captain wherever he went. He was not so timorous as the rest of his countrymen, but walked boldly along with us, whilst the others were alarmed at the least motion which appeared unusual to them. This disposition, however, did not prevent them from picking our pockets, or stealing any thing which suited them. We had not been half an hour on shore, when one of them came behind Mahine, and very nimbly snatching a black cap from his head, ran off with the greatest velocity over the heaps of rugged stones, where it was impossible to follow him. Mahine was so surprised, that it was some time before he could find words to complain to the captain; and when he did it, the thief was already at a great distance. About the same time, as Mr. Hodges was fitting on a little eminence, and sketching a view of the country, one of the natives ran off with his hat in the same manner. Mr. Wales was standing by him with a musket in his hand, but very justly reflected, that so slight a crime did not deserve the punishment of a leaden bullet.

In our walk along the sea-shore, we discovered a few stalks of the same species of celery which is plentiful on the beaches of New Zeeland, and we also found two other little plants common to that country. Whether these plants originally existed on the island, or sprung up from seeds, which the current of the sea, or birds by their plumage might transport from the opposite side of the ocean, I cannot venture to determine. We likewise met with a plantation of yams ( dioscorea alata, Linn.) which in so poor a flora as that of Easter Island was a great addition. The great correspondence in the features, customs, and languages of these people, to those of other natives of the South Sea islands, gave us some room to hope for such domestic animals among them, as we had observed at Taheitee or New Zeeland. But notwithstanding the most diligent search, we never met with any other than common fowls, which were of a very small breed, and had a dull plumage. It is true we observed also two or three noddies, which were so tame as to settle on the shoulders of the natives, but from these individuals we could not conclude, that they kept a regular breed of them.

About sun-set we left the watering-place, and walked to the cove where our boat lay at a grapnel. In our way we passed over the area on which the single pillar before-mentioned was placed. A few natives who still accompanied us, made signs that we should descend, and walk in the grass at the foot of the pedestal; but seeing that we did not care to understand their gestures, they made no other attempt to oppose our progress. We put some questions to the most intelligent persons among them, concerning the nature of these stones, and from what we could understand, we concluded that they were monuments erected to the memory of some of their areekees, or kings. This led us to believe that the pedestal was perhaps to be considered as a burying-place, and on looking carefully round it, we found a number of human bones, which confirmed our conjecture. The length of these bones was exactly such as might be expected in persons of a middle stature, and a thigh-bone which we measured, exactly corresponded with that of a person about five feet nine inches high. To the westward of the cove, there was a range of three pillars, standing on a very large elevated area or pedestal. This range the natives distinguished by the name of hanga-roa, and the single pillar they called obeena. About ten or twelve people were seated at a little distance from the last, round a small fire, over which they had roasted a few potatoes. These served for their supper, and they offered us some of them as we passed by. We were much surprised with this instance of hospitality in so poor a country, especially when we compared it to the customs of civilized nations, who have almost entirely laid aside all tender feelings for the wants of their fellow-creatures. At the same time we were very glad to be convinced, that the conjectures of the Dutch concerning the fires which they saw on this island, were ill-founded, as we did not see the least reason to suppose, that they were lighted for religious purposes. We now embarked with a small quantity of potatoes, and with about six or seven common plants, which we had gathered, and returned on board. Those only who were ill of the scurvy, reaped some benefit from their visit to the shore. I who went out in the morning with my legs excessively swelled, and so tender that I could hardly stand upon them, returned on board much better; the swelling was something reduced, and my pains at least were gone. I could not attribute this sudden change to any thing else, than the exercise I had taken on shore, and perhaps to those salutary antiscorbutic effluvia of the land, which it is said, are alone sufficient to recover those, who have contracted the scurvy on a long cruize at sea.

[Tuesday 15.]Early the next morning, captain Cook appointed a party of marines and sailors, under the command of lieutenants Pickersgill and Edgecumbe, to reconnoitre the interior parts of the country, in order to be convinced if possible, whether any other part was better cultivated, or more closely inhabited than that which we had hitherto seen. Mr. Wales, Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, and my father associated with them, so that the whole party consisted of twenty-seven men.

After breakfast I accompanied captain Cook and several officers ashore, where we found about two hundred inhabitants assembled, amongst whom were fourteen or fifteen women, and very few children. It was impossible for us to guess at the cause of this disproportion in the number of the different sexes; but as all the women we saw were very liberal of their favours, I conjectured at that time, that the married and the modest, who might be supposed to form the greater part, did not care to come near us, or were forced by the men to stay at their dwellings in the remote parts of the island. Those few who appeared were the most lascivious of their sex, that perhaps have ever been noticed in any country, and shame seemed to be entirely unknown to them; our sailors likewise disclaimed all acquaintance with modesty, for nothing but the shadow of the gigantic monument screened them from the sun.

Mr. Patton, lieutenant Clerke, and myself left the seaside, where the concourse was greatest, and took a walk into the country. The heat of the sun was very violent, the beams being reverberated from the broken ground, and there was not a single tree to give us shelter. My companions had taken their fowling-pieces in hopes of meeting with some birds; but they were greatly disappointed, there being probably no other land-birds on the island than the common fowl, which were tame and extremely scarce. We followed one of the paths which the natives had made, till we came to a cultivated spot, consisting of several fields planted with sweet potatoes, yams, and eddoes, together with a species of night-shade, which is made use of at Taheitee and the neighbouring islands as a vulnerary remedy, ( solanum nigrum?) and may, for ought I know, be cultivated here for the same purpose. The grass, which commonly springs up among the stones on the uncultivated soil, was here carefully plucked up, and spread over the whole plantation as a manure, or perhaps to preserve it in some measure from the parching beams of the sun. It should seem from these circumstances that the natives are not altogether ignorant of rural œconomy, and till the ground at a great expence of time and labour. At a little distance from these fields we met with two huts, constructed exactly like that which I have mentioned page 569, but much smaller. The entrance was stopped up with a great quantity of small brushwood, and we at first imagined that we heard the voices of women within, but after listening for some time we heard nothing farther to confirm us in this belief. We rambled from thence to the top of a hillock covered with shrubberies, which we found to consist of nothing but a species of mimosa, that scarcely attained the height of eight feet, and afforded us very little shelter from the sun. Here we rested a while, and then descended by a different route into another set of fields, which were treated in the same manner as the rest. None of them had any sort of enclosures, though the historians of Roggewein's voyage, who seem to have consulted fancy more than truth, make mention of them. The encreasing heat of the day had entirely exhausted us, when we had still a considerable way to make down to the sea-side. Fortunately we passed by a native who was at work, gathering potatoes in one of the fields. We complained of great thirst to him, upon which, though he was an old man, he immediately ran to a large plantation of sugar-canes, and brought us a great load of the best and juiciest on his back. We made him some presents in return for them, cut them into walking-sticks, and, as we went along, gradually peeled and sucked them, finding their juice extremely refreshing.

At our return to the landing-place we found captain Cook still occupied in trading with the inhabitants, who brought him some fowls ready dressed, and some matted baskets full of sweet potatoes, but sometimes deceived him by filling the basket with stones, and only laying a few potatoes at the top. The most valuable article of trade on our part were empty coco-nut shells, which we had received at the Society and Friendly Islands; but they were not current, unless the hole in them was very small, or unless they had a cover. The Taheitian and European cloths were valued in the next degree according to the size of the pieces; and iron-ware bore an inferior price. The greatest part of the natives who traded with us instantly ran off with the cloth, nut-shell, or the nail which had been given in exchange for their potatoes, as if they were apprehensive that we might repent of our bargain, even though they dealt honestly with us. Some among them were bold enough to run off with what they had received, as the price of their provisions, before they had delivered up the goods for which we had bargained. From such circumstances the deplorable condition of the natives became more and more conspicuous. The scarcity of cloth among them was extremely great, most of the people being forced to go naked; but this did not prevent their selling what little cloth they had in exchange for that of Taheitee. The desire of possessing this cloth prompted them to expose to sale several articles which perhaps they would not have parted with so easily under other circumstances. Among these were their different caps or head-dresses, their necklaces, ornaments for the ear, and several human figures, made of narrow pieces of wood about eighteen inches or two feet long, and wrought in a much neater and more proportionate manner than we could have expected, after seeing the rude sculpture of the statues. They were made to represent persons of both sexes; the features were not very pleasing, and the whole figure was much too long to be natural; however, there was something characteristic in them, which shewed a taste for the arts. The wood of which they were made was finely polished, close-grained, and of a dark-brown, like that of the casuarina. But as we had not yet seen this tree growing here, we eagerly expected the return of our party, hoping they would make some discoveries to explain this circumstance. Mahine was most pleased with these carved human figures, the workman of which much excelled those of the e Tees in his country, and he purchased several of them, assuring us they would be greatly valued at Taheitee. As he took great pains to collect these curiosities, he once met with a figure of a woman's hand, carved of a yellowish wood, nearly of the natural size. Upon examination, its fingers were all bent upwards, as they are in the action of dancing at Taheitee, and its nails were represented very long, extending at least three fourths of an inch beyond the fingers' end. The wood of which it was made was the rare perfume-wood of Taheitee, with the chips of which they communicate fragrance to their oils. We had neither seen this wood growing, nor observed the custom of wearing long nails at this island, and therefore were at a loss to conceive how this piece of well-executed carving could be met with there; we hoped, however, to unravel this circumstance also at the return of our party. Mahine afterwards presented this piece to my father, who has in his turn made a present of it to the British Museum. Mahine was likewise very eager to collect as many feathered caps as he could meet with, especially those which had the feathers of a man of war bird, that bird being very scarce about Taheitee, and much valued on account of its glossy black colour.

Whilst captain Cook continued in the cove, another trade for potatoes was carried on at the watering-place. Here the desire of possessing our goods, made some of the natives guilty of a crime against their own countryman. A field of sweet potatoes was situated close to the well, and a considerable number of people of different ages and sizes, busied themselves in digging them up, and bringing them for sale to our people. They had carried on this occupation for some hours, when another native arrived, who was in a vehement passion with them, and drove them all away, remaining alone to dig the roots up himself. He was the owner of the field, whom the rest had robbed of the fruits of his labour, finding an easy method to dispose of their stolen goods. It is not to be doubted that these offences against the laws of civil society, are sometimes committed even at the Society Isles, because the inhabitants have often told us, that they inflicted a capital punishment upon such offenders; but we never saw any instances of it there. On this occasion at Easter Island, we did not observe that they annexed any penalty to the crime, though we saw it committed. Perhaps this is owing to the different degree of civilization of those two cogeneric tribes.

We went on board at noon, where we dined on some fowls and potatoes, which we found delicious after the fatigues of the morning. We observed a few natives on board, who had ventured to swim off, though the ship lay about three quarters of a mile from the shore. They expressed the most unbounded admiration at every thing they saw, and every one of them measured the whole length of the vessel from head to stern, with his extended arms; such a great quantity of timber of so stupendous a size, being altogether incomprehensible to people whose canoes were patched of many small bits of wood. Among them was one woman, who had arrived on board in the same manner, and carried on a particular traffic of her own. She visited several of the inferior officers, and then addressed herself to the sailors, emulating the famous exploits of Messalina [164] See Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. x. c. 63. Tacit. Annal. lib. xi. Juvenal. Sat. vi. 129. ____lassa viris, nec satiata recessit. . A few English rags, and some pieces of Taheitee cloth, were the spoils which she carried away with her, being fetched off by a man in the patched canoe, which was perhaps the only one in the island. Another of her country-women had visited our ship the day before, and been equally unbounded in her revels. It remained a doubt with us, whether we should most admire their success among a sickly crew, exhausted by the long continuance of a noxious diet, or their own spirit and insatiate temper.

In the afternoon we returned to the shore again, and I walked on the hills to the southward, which rose with a very easy slope. Here I met with a large plantation of bananas, beyond which I found some remains of a stone wall, which was perhaps once the base of a statue. From thence I crossed some fields, where I saw a family of the natives at work, taking potatoes out of the ground. I walked up to their hut, which was one of the smallest I had yet seen, and as they came about me, I sat down among them. Their whole number amounted to six or seven persons, one of whom was a woman, and two were young boys. They presented me with some sugar-canes, and in return, I made them a present of a small piece of Taheitee cloth, which they immediately wrapped about the head. They did not express that great curiosity which we had observed among the people of the Society Isles, but soon returned to their former occupation, in which all were employed without exception. Some of them had head-dresses made of feathers, which they readily offered to exchange for pieces of cloth no bigger than a handkerchief. About the hut I perceived a few fowls, the only ones which I had seen alive on the island. Their behaviour towards me was wholly inoffensive, agreeably to the general character of the nations in the South Sea. From the expressions of the historians of Roggewein's voyage, it should seem, that the Dutch very wantonly fired upon the natives, who gave no provocation, and killed a considerable number of them, intimidating the rest to a great degree. It is probable, that the terror with which they looked upon the destructive arms of Europeans at that time, and during the late visit of the Spaniards, was revived among them at our appearance, and had an influence on their general timid behaviour towards us; but it is not to be doubted, at the same time, that there is a mildness, fellow-feeling, and good-nature in their disposition, which naturally prompts them to treat their visitors kindly, and even hospitably, as far as their wretched country will permit.

I returned the same way by which I came, and soon after went on board the ship with captain Cook. About nine o'clock a musket was fired on shore, as a signal for a boat, and the pinnace being sent off, returned soon after with our party, who had been to examine the island. My father being more fatigued than any body else, on account of his long rheumatic complaint, was obliged to go to bed immediately; but the other gentlemen supped with us, on a few fowls which we had purchased on shore, and gave us some account of their travels. As it will be most agreeable to see it in connection, I shall here insert that which I have extracted from my father's journal.

" Immediately after landing, we walked directly inland or across the country, under the highest hill which lies towards the south, till we came to the other side of the island. About an hundred natives, and among them four or five women, accompanied us on our march, and sold us a quantity of potatoes and a few fowls, which we added to our stock of provisions. We found the whole country strewed with stones of various sizes, of a cavernous or spongy texture, and of a black, brown, or reddish colour, which had indubitable marks of having been in a volcanic fire. The paths through this rugged ground are in some measure cleared of the stones, but so very narrow, that we were obliged to turn our toes inwards, at which the natives are perfectly expert, and to set one foot exactly before the other. This mode of walking was excessively fatiguing to us who were not used to it, so that we continually hurt our feet or stumbled. On both sides the ground was covered with a thing perennial Jamaica-grass ( paspalum), which grew in bunches or tufts, and was so slippery that we could not walk on it. We reached the east side of the island, near a range of seven pillars or statues, of which only four remained standing, and one of them had lost its cap. They stood on a common pedestal, like those which we had seen on the other side, and its stones were square and fitted exactly in the same manner. Though the stone of which the statue itself is formed seems to be soft enough, being nothing but the red tufa which covers the whole island, yet it was incomprehensible to me how such great masses could be formed by a set of people among whom we saw no tools; or raised and erected by them without machinery. The general appellation of this range was Hanga Tebòw; hanga being the word which they prefix to every range. The names of the statues were Ko [165] Ko is the article, as at New Zeeland and in the Friendly Isles. -Tomoaï, Ko-Tomoèeree, Ko-Hòo-oo, Morahèena, Oomarèeva, Weenâboo, Weenapè.

" From hence we continued our march to the northward along the sea, having a precipice on our right. The ground was the same ferrugineous tufa for a considerable way, covered with small fragments; but after some time we came to a spot which was a single coherent rock or lump of black melted lava, which appeared to contain some iron. There was not soil, grass, or plant whatsoever upon it. Beyond it we passed through a number of plantations of bananas, potatoes, and yams, and one of eddoes. The grass between the stones was plucked up and spread on the land, to screen it from the sun, to keep the moisture of the rain in it, and at last to manure it.

" The natives continued to offer some potatoes for sale ready dressed, and, at a hut where we halted, they sold us some fish. Some of them carried arms, which were no other than the thin sticks we had seen before, and which were headed with a black vitreous lava, carefully wrapped in a small piece of cloth. Only one of them had a battle-axe, resembling that of the New Zeelanders, though much shorter. It had a head carved on each side, and a small round portion of the black glass above-mentioned instead of eyes. They had likewise some small crooked human figures made of wood, of which we could not learn the use or signification; we did not, however, think that our ignorance on this subject intitled us to call them idols, which is too commonly the judgment passed upon the works of art of unknown nations.

" After leaving this hut we still advanced to the northward, without seeing any new objects. A man and a woman met us from some neighbouring houses, each with a large matted bag, of very neat workmanship, filled with hot potatoes, and placed themselves by the side of the path where we were to pass. As we came on, the man presented each of us with some of the roots, and having distributed a portion to the whole party, he ran with amazing swiftness to the head of our file to share out the rest, till he had given away the whole. He received a large piece of cloth from me, which was the only requital for an instance of hospitality, of which I never saw the like even at Taheitee. Soon after the natives told us their aree, or hareekee, or king was coming towards us. Several men came on before him, and distributed sugar-canes to us all in sign of friendship, at the same time pronouncing the word heeo [166] Hòa at the Society Isles; wòa at the Friendly Isles. , which signifies friend. We now saw the king standing on a hill, and walked up to him, Mr. Pickersgill and myself making him some presents. We asked for his name, which he told us was Ko Toheetai, adding that he was aree or king. We were desirous of knowing whether he was only the chief of a district, or of the whole island; upon which he spread out his arms, as it were to include the whole island, and said Waihu. To shew that we understood him, we laid our hands on his breast, and, calling him by name, added his title, king of Waihu, at which he expressed very great satisfaction, and conversed a great deal with his people on that subject. He was a middle-aged man, rather tall; his face and whole body strongly punctured. He wore a piece of cloth made of the mulberry bark, quilted with threads of grass, and stained yellow with turmerick; and on his head he had a cap of long shining black feathers, which might be called a diadem. We did not perceive any great degree of homage or attention paid to him by the people; and indeed in so poor a country there seems to be nothing which he could have reserved for himself, without a manifest incroachment on the natural rights of mankind, which might have produced dangerous effects. When we wanted to continue our march he seemed to dislike it, and desired us to return, offering to accompany us; but seeing our officer determined to proceed at all events he desisted, and went with us.

" We marched to an elevated spot, and stopped a little while to take some refreshments, and to give Mr. Hodges time to draw some of the monuments, near one of which we found an entire skeleton of a man. A good view of some of these monuments is inserted in captain Cook's account of this voyage. Our people sat down on the ground, and laid their bundles of provision before them, whilst the officers, and other gentlemen with myself, conversed with the natives. One of our sailors, who carried my plant-bag, in which were a few nails, &c. being less careful of his bundle than the rest, a native snatched it up and ran off with it. None of us saw it, except lieutenant Edgecumb, who immediately fired his musket, loaded with small shot, at the thief, and thus gave the alarm to us all. The native being wounded threw down the bag, which our people recovered, but he fell soon after; his countrymen took him up, and fled to a little distance, till we beckoned to them to return, which almost all of them did. Though this was the only instance of firing at a native during our stay at Easter Island, yet it is to be lamented that Europeans too often assume the power of inflicting punishments on people who are utterly unacquainted with their laws.

" From this spot we continued our march a good way inland, and were conducted to a deep well, which appeared to have been formed by art, and contained good fresh water, though somewhat troubled. We all drank heartily of it, and then went on, passing by several large statues, which had been overturned, till we came in sight of the two hummocks, near which we had perceived the greatest number of pillars or statues, from the ship, on the 12th. We mounted on an eminence in the neighbourhood, from whence we beheld the sea on both sides of the island, across a plain which we had likewise discovered from the ship at that time. We viewed the whole eastern coast, and its numerous pillars, and were convinced that there was no bay or harbour on that side of the island. With this information we returned back to a large statue, which the natives called Mangototo, and in the shade of which we dined. In its neighbourhood we met with another huge statue, which lay overturned; it was twenty-seven feet long, and nine feet in diameter, exceeding in magnitude every other pillar which we had seen on the island.

" In returning, we stopped once more at the well, and quenched our thirst, which the raging heat of the sun, reverberated from barren rocks, had excited. From thence we directed our march something nearer the ridge of hills which run along the middle of the island, but found the path more rugged and fatiguing than ever, the country being strewed with volcanic cinders, and desolate all round us, though we found many remaining proofs of its having been formerly cultivated. I now felt how much I had been weakened by the long continuance of the rheumatism, which had crippled all my limbs, and was hardly able to keep up with the rest, though I had formerly, upon similar occasions, been indefatigable. The natives seeing us strike into a difficult path had all left us, except one man and a little boy. Finding that our officers with their party, went too much out of their way, by mistaking the direction of our ship, I left them; and with Dr. Sparrman, a sailor, and the two natives, pursued the nearest path, which the latter had plainly pointed out. The man seeing me very faint, offered me his hand, and walking on the loose stones by the side of the path, with amazing dexterity supported me for a considerable way; the little boy going before, and picking up the stones which obstructed the path. By resting several times, we were at last enabled to reach the summit of the hill, from whence we saw the sea to the west, and the ship at anchor. The hill was covered with a shrubbery of the mimosa, which grew here to the height of eight or nine feet, and some of whose stems near the root, were about the thickness of a man's thigh. We found another well hereabouts, of which the water was infected with a putrid taste, and the smell of hepar sulphuris, but of which we drank, notwithstanding its nauseousness. The sun set very soon after we had left this well; so that we continued our walk downwards, for more than two hours entirely in the dark, during which my Indian's assistance was particularly valuable to me. I waited for Mr. Pickersgill and the rest of the party, having gained near three miles upon them, and arrived safely at the sea-side with them, after walking at the lowest computation, at least five and twenty miles on the most detestable roads, where not a single tree appeared to give us shelter from the scorching sun. I rewarded my friendly conductors with all the Taheitee cloth, and iron ware, which I had about me, and arrived safely on board with the party."

From this narrative it is evident, that the most diligent enquiries on our part, have not been sufficient to throw a clear light on the surprising objects which struck our eyes in this island. We may however, attempt to account for those gigantic monuments, of which great numbers exist in every part; for as they are so disproportionate to the present strength of the nation, it is most reasonable to look upon them as the remains of better times. The nicest calculations which we could make, never brought the number of inhabitants in this island beyond seven hundred [167] The Spaniards in the S. Lorenzo, and frigate Rosalia, make the population of Easter Island amount to between two and three thousand; but it may be doubted whether they examined the interior country, as well as our people. See Mr. Dalrymple's Letter to Dr. Hawkesworth. , who, destitute of tools, of shelter, and clothing, are obliged to spend all their time in providing food to support their precarious existence. It is obvious that they are too much occupied with their wants, to think of forming statues, which would cost them ages to finish, and require their united strength to erect. Accordingly, we did not see a single instrument among them on all our excursions, which could have been of the least use in masonry or sculpture. We neither met with any quarries, where they had recently dug the materials, nor with unfinished statues which we might have considered as the work of the present race. It is therefore probable, that these people were formerly more numerous, more opulent and happy, when they could spare sufficient time to flatter the vanity of their princes, by perpetuating their name by lasting monuments. The remains of plantations found on the summits of the hills, give strength and support to this conjecture. It is not in our power to determine by what various accidents a nation so flourishing, could be reduced in number, and degraded to its present indigence. But we are well convinced that many causes may produce this effect, and that the devastation which a volcano might make, is alone sufficient to heap a load of miseries on a people confined to so small a space. In fact, this island, which may perhaps, in remote ages, have been produced by a volcano, since all its minerals are merely volcanic, has at least in all likelihood been destroyed by its fire. All kinds of trees and plants, all domestic animals, nay a great part of the nation itself may have perished in the dreadful convulsion of nature: hunger and misery must have been but too powerful enemies to those who escaped the fire. We cannot well account for those little carved images which we saw among the natives, and the representation of a dancing woman's hand, which, as I have mentioned above, are made of wood, at present not to be met with upon the island. The only idea which offers itself, is that they were made long ago, and have been saved by accident or predilection, at the general catastrophe which seems to have happened. All the women whom we saw in different parts of the island, did not amount to thirty, though our people crossed it almost from one end to the other, without seeing the least probability that the women had retired to any secluded part. If there are really no more than thirty or forty women, among six or seven hundred men, the whole nation is in a fair way of becoming entirely extinct in a short space of time, unless all our physical principles on the plurality of husbands are erroneous. The greater part of the women whom we saw gave us no reason to suppose that they were accustomed to a single partner; on the contrary, they seemed habitually to have arrived at the spirit of Messalina, or of Cleopatra. But this disproportion is such a singular phӕnomenon in human nature, that we cannot without difficulty give credit to it, and would willingly lay hold of any argument which, though incumbered with difficulties, might restore the proportion between the sexes. It is true our party did not see any valley or secluded glen, to which the women might have confined themselves during our stay; but I must remind the reader of those caverns mentioned before, to which the natives always refused to admit us. The caverns of Iceland are spacious enough to contain several thousand inhabitants; and nothing is more probable than that, in a similar volcanic country, such caverns may afford room for a few hundreds. What reasons the Easter Islanders may have to be more jealous of their women than the Taheitians, we know not; but we are acquainted with the outrageous and wanton behaviour of the sailor, wherever he has so great a superiority over the Indian, as the Dutch and Spaniards must have had over the people of Easter Island. The principal objection against this supposition is, however, the small number of children which we saw, there being no reason to seclude them from our eyes, whatever might be thought necessary with regard to the women. In short, this matter must remain unascertained, and if, in fact, the number of women is inconsiderable, it must have been diminished by some extraordinary accident, which none but the natives could have explained; but, in all our doubts, our ignorance of their language prevented us from acquiring any information.

The next morning we sent a boat ashore to take in some water, and the weather continuing calm, another went off to trade with the natives in order to encrease our little stock of potatoes. One of the natives likewise plied between the ship and the shore, bringing off potatoes and bananas in the patched canoe. In the mean while a smart shower falling on board the ship, enabled our people to collect a quantity of fresh water in the awnings and sails of the ship, which were spread to catch it. Another boat went off to the shore in the afternoon, but towards evening a faint breeze springing up, the ship fired a gun, in consequence of which the boat came on board, and we sailed N. W. by W. from Easter Island.

We had been greatly disappointed in the expectation which we had formed of this island, as a place of refreshment. The only article of any importance was their sweet potatoes; but after we had regularly shared out all we had purchased, the common people had only a few scanty meals of them. As to the bananas, yams, and sugar-canes which we had bought, they were in such inconsiderable quantities, that they scarce deserve to be mentioned. All the fowls which we had obtained, and which, in general, were of a very small breed, did not amount to fifty; and even the quantity of water which we had filled was inconsiderable and ill tasted. However, this small supply was so seasonable, that it preserved us from the too violent attacks of the scurvy and bilious disorders, till we could reach a better place of refreshment. Indeed, when I consider the wretched situation of the inhabitants, I am surprised that they parted with a quantity of provisions to us, of which the cultivation must have cost them great pains and labour. The barren refractory soil of their island, the scarcity of domestic animals, and the want of boats and proper materials for fishing, all concur to render their means of subsistence extremely difficult and precarious. Yet the desire of possessing the new toys and curiosities which strangers bring among them, hurried them away, and prevented their reflecting on the urgency of their own most natural and unavoidable wants. In this, as in numberless other circumstances, they agree with the tribes who inhabit New Zeeland, the Friendly and the Society Islands, and who seem to have had one common origin with them. Their features are very similar, so that the general character may easily be distinguished. Their colour, a yellowish brown, most like the hue of the New Zeelanders; their art of puncturing, the use of the mulberry-bark for clothing, the predilection for red paint and red dresses, the shape and workmanship of their clubs, the mode of dressing their victuals, all form a strong resemblance to the natives of the islands above mentioned. We may add to these, the simplicity of their languages, that of Easter Island being a dialect which, in many respects, resembles that of New Zeeland, especially in the harshness of pronunciation and the use of gutturals, and yet in other instances, partakes of that of Taheitee. The monarchical government likewise strengthens the affinity between the Easter Islanders and the tropical tribes, its prerogatives being only varied according to the different degrees of fertility of the islands, and the opulence or luxury of the people. Easter Island, or, as the natives call it, Waihu, is so very barren, that the whole number of plants growing upon it does not exceed twenty species, of which far the greater part is cultivated [168] The Spaniards mention white calabashes, ( pompions), among the vegetable productions of this island; but we did not see any. See Mr. Dalrymple's judicious letter to Dr. Hawkesworth. ; though the space which the plantations occupy is inconsiderable, compared with that which lies waste. The soil is altogether stoney, and parched by the sun, and water is so scarce, that the inhabitants drink it out of wells which have a strong admixture of brine; nay, some of our people really saw them drink of the sea-water when they were thirsty. Their habit of body must, in some measure, be influenced by these circumstances; they are meagre, and their muscles hard and rigid; they live very frugally, and, in general, go almost wholly naked, only covering the head, which is the most sensible of heat, with feathered caps, and puncturing or daubing the rest with colours. Their ideas of decency are, of course, very different from those of nations who are accustomed to clothing. They cut short their hair and beards from motives of cleanliness, like the people of Tonga-Tabboo, but fortunately seemed to be less subject to leprous complaints. It is easy to conclude that the kind of such a people cannot have great and conspicuous advantages of the commonalty, nor did our party observe any thing of that kind. The religion of the Easter Islanders is still wholly unknown to us, because abstract ideas are not to be acquired in so short a time as our stay. The statues, which are erected in honour of their kings, have a great affinity to the wooden figures, called Tee, on the chief's maraïs or burying-places at Taheitee; but we could not possibly consider them as idols, though Roggewein's people would pass them for such upon us. The fires which the Dutch interpret as sacrifices, were only made use of by the natives to dress their meals; and though the Spaniards suspected them to be a kind of superstition, they were, perhaps. equally mistaken, because the scarcity of fuel obliged the inhabitants to be careful of it, and to prevent their provisions being uncovered after they had once been put under ground with heated stones.

We are unacquainted with the amusements of the people of Easter Island, having never seen them engaged in any kind of diversion, nor taken notice of a single musical instrument among them. They cannot, however, be entire strangers to amusement, since Maròo-wahai, who slept on board, talked a great deal of dancing, as soon as we had quieted his fears with respect to the safety of his person. The disposition of these people is far from being warlike; their numbers are too inconsiderable, and their poverty too general, to create civil disturbances amongst them. It is equally improbable that they have foreign wars, since hitherto we know of no island near enough to admit of an intercourse between the inhabitants; neither could we obtain any intelligence from those of Easter Island upon the subject. This being premised, it is extraordinary that they should have different kinds of offensive weapons, and especially such as resemble those of the New Zeelanders; and we must add this circumstance to several others, which are inexplicable to us in their kind.

Upon the whole, supposing Easter Island to have undergone a late misfortune from volcanic fires, its inhabitants are more to be pitied than any less civilized society, being acquainted with a number of conveniencies, comforts, and luxuries of life, which they formerly possessed, and of which the remembrance must embitter the loss. Mahine frequently lamented their unhappy situation, and seemed to feel for them more than he had done for the New Zeelanders, because he found them much more destitute. He added another stick to the bundle which composed his journal, and remembered Easter Island with this observation, tàta maïtaï, whennùa èeno, that the people were good, but the island very bad; whereas at New Zeeland he had found more fault with the natives than the country. His feelings were always warm from the heart, which education had filled with real philanthropy; they were likewise just, in general, because his senses were sound and acute, and his understanding, though uncultivated, was free from many prejudices.

CHAP. V.

Run from Easter Island to the Marquesas - Stay in Madre-de-Dios harbour on Waitahoo - Course from thence through the Islands to Taheitee.

[1774. March.][Thursday 17.]THE breeze with which we sailed from Easter Island was so gentle, that we were still in sight of it the next day at noon, at the distance of fifteen leagues. The weather was rather sultry, and captain Cook relapsed into his former bilious disorder, by having exerted himself too much on shore, during the violent heat of noon. All those who had been on the long excursion across the island, had their faces blistered by the sun, and extremely painful in proportion as the skin peeled off. The short stay near the land, and the use of a few vegetables from thence, had greatly restored to their health those who were afflicted with the scurvy before; and several, though excessively weak, felt no inconvenience at present. It is true, the little supply at Easter Island served only as a whet to our appetite, and made us all extremely eager in our wishes of reaching the Marquesas of Mendoça, whither we now directed our course. Very fortunately for us the wind freshened the next day, and continued so for some time, giving life to our hopes, and inspiring more chearfulness than we had known for some months past.

In a few days, however, we were much alarmed to find several people sickening again, and particularly complaining of constipations and bilious disorders, which are deadly in hot climates. Among these was our excellent surgeon himself, whose illness gave us more pain than almost any thing else. The most unlucky circumstance was, that the patients could not eat the potatoes which we had brought from the shore, because they were too flatulent for their weakened stomachs.

[Thursday 24.]A calm which happened on the 24th, our latitude being about 17° south, was very disagreeable to the sick, and brought some of them very low. Captain Cook himself was obliged to keep his bed again, being afflicted with some alarming symptoms. However the wind returned in the afternoon, and freshening considerably in a day or two, cooled the air very pleasantly. This weather was very salutary to all the bilious patients; so that they appeared on deck, and walked, or rather crawled about, though exceedingly emaciated.

My father ordered his Taheitian dog, the only one which still remained alive after our departure from the Friendly Islands, to be killed; it was cut into quarters, which were served up to captain Cook during several days, and gave him some nourishment, as he could not venture to taste the ship's provisions. By such small helps we succeeded in preserving a life upon which the success of the voyage in a great measure depended.

We daily saw Tropic birds and shearwaters after leaving Easter Island, and frightened many shoals of flying fish out of the water. These fish were remarkably numerous on [Saturday 27.]the 27th, when we saw none but small ones, the largest not exceeding the length of a finger, and the least scarcely so long as one of its joints. Our latitude that day, at noon, was 13° 13' south.

[1774. April.]Since the calm on the 24th we had a fine steady gale from the eastward, which speeded our course prodigiously. The weather in general was serene, and the colour of the ocean a fine rich blue, bearing always a considerable relation to that of the sky. Dolphins, bonitos, and sharks appeared from time to time, and various birds at war with flying fishes enlivened the scene. To add to our comfort, the heat of the sun became perfectly agreeable to us, being tempered by the rapid motion of the air, and permitted us to walk about the decks with some satisfaction. Nothing less was wanting to keep up our fainting spirits, and to strengthen the sick, who might be said to feed entirely upon hope, having no refreshments to restore their wasted strength. We had already consumed all the vegetables which had been purchased at Easter Island; nothing therefore remained, but either to return to the loathed diet of salted meat, of which the juices were utterly destroyed, by lying in pickle for three years, or to starve on a small quantity of bread, if the stomach could not digest those gross and unprofitable fibres. We were therefore unanimous in our wishes of a speedy deliverance; and in proportion as the breeze slackened or encreased, the thermometer of our expectations fluctuated from abject despondence to the most sanguine expectation. All our books which treated of Mendaça's Voyages were consulted; and since the vague expressions, relative to the distance of the Marquesas from Peru, gave us full scope for conjecture, every day produced a new calculation of their longitude. For the space of five days we successively passed over the different positions which our new geographers had allotted to those islands, and overturned each new hypothesis, not without some diversion to the rest, who either artfully concealed their own opinion, or candidly confessed that the data were too uncertain to bear a superstructure. During this course we enjoyed some beautiful evenings, and particularly observed the sky and clouds tinged with different hues of green by the setting sun, on the 3d of April. This colour has been observed by Frezier before, and is in fact nothing extraordinary, especially if the air happens to be charged with vapours, which is frequently the case between the tropics. The same day we had caught a small sucking fish, adhering to a flying fish, with which we had baited a hook: a proof that these little creatures are not always fixed to sharks. The same day we saw a large fish of the genus of rays, which is called a sea-devil by some authors. It perfectly resembled that which we had seen in the Atlantic, on the first of September, 1772. (See vol. I. p. 47). The number of terns, tropic, and man of war birds, encreased around us almost every day, as we ran to the westward, and approached the islands which we expected to find. At last, on the 6th of April in the afternoon, we had sight of a small bluff island; but the haze which involved it, and which thickened as we advanced, prevented our examining the nature of the land, and building any hopes of refreshment on its appearance. Quiros, who is supposed to have written the account of the voyage of the Spanish Adelentado (or captain-general) Don Alvaro Mendaça de Neyra, in the year 1595, gives a favourable account of the group of islands discovered in that voyage, which were named the Islas Marquesas de Mendoça, in honour of the viceroy of Peru, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoça, marquis of Cañete, who had set on foot that expedition. We had recourse to this account, in order to gain some information relative to the land which now engrossed all our attention. [Thursday 7.]The next morning we stood in-shore, and though the weather still continued hazy, we soon distinguished the different islands which the Spaniards have called la Dominica, St. Pedro, and St. Christina. We were convinced at the same time, that the small bluff island which we had first fallen in with, had not been seen by Mendaça; and captain Cook gave it the name of Hood's Island, from the person who first discovered it. La Dominica, which lay nearest to us, was a high and mountainous island, of which the N. E. point was very steep and barren; but farther to the north we observed some vallies filled with trees, amongst which we now and then discovered a hut. As the haze cleared away, we saw many craggy rocks like spires, and several hollow summits piled up in the centre of the island, which proved that volcanoes and earthquakes had been active there in changing the face of the country. All its eastern part is a prodigious steep and almost perpendicular wall, of a great height, which forms a sharp ridge, shattered into spires and precipices. St. Pedro is a small island, of very moderate elevation, but did not appear either fertile or populous. St. Christina, the westermost of all, had the most promising appearance; and, though very high and steep, yet had several vallies, which widened towards the sea, and were covered with fine forests to the summits of the mountain. About three o'clock we entered the straits, between the south end of Dominica, and the N. E. part of St. Christina, which is above two miles wide. We observed some pleasant spots on both islands, between the clefts of the mountain; but saw no plains, like those which so greatly embellish the Society Islands. The shore of St. Christina was, however, sufficient to revive all our spirits, and inspired that cheerfulness which every fertile and pleasing prospect gives to the weary mariner. We passed several little coves, where the white foaming surf tumbled in upon the beach. The two projecting points of every cove included a valley, filled with forests and plantations, of a pleasing verdure. On every beach we saw some inhabitants running about, or gazing at our ship. Sometimes they launched their canoes, and attempted to come after us; but a strong breeze carried us so swiftly through the smooth water, that we left them far behind. We found a harbour on the west side of the island, which looked so tempting, that we eagerly wished to come to an anchor; but just as we were turning about, in order to run into it, a heavy squall came over the high mountain with prodigious violence, and laid the ship on her side, so that we sprung our mizen-topmast, and narrowly escaped being driven against the southern point of the harbour. After we had trimmed our sails again, we tacked, and anchored about five o'clock in the entrance of the harbour. During the squall, about fifteen canoes, putting off from different parts of the island, came near the ship. Some were double, and contained fifteen men; others, on the contrary, were small, and had from three to seven men. As soon as we were at anchor, we invited the natives, by every sign of friendship, and by addressing them in the Taheitian language, to come on board. This they did not venture to do; but at first they brought their canoes close alongside, and offered us some pepper-roots, which were doubtless signs of peace, as at the Society and Friendly Islands. After we had fastened these roots to the shrouds, they sold us a few fish in exchange for nails, and likewise some excellent large bread-fruit, perfectly ripe, at sight of which our whole ship's company expressed the greatest marks of joy in their countenances.

The natives about us were a well-made, handsome people, of a good yellowish or tawny colour, but looked almost black, by being punctured over the whole body. They were all naked, having only a small piece of cloth, perfectly resembling that made by the people of Taheitee, round their waist and loins. Their beards and hair were of a fine jetty black, and their language much nearer the Taheitian, than any other dialect in the South Sea, with this difference, that they could not pronounce the r. Their canoes were thin, and formed of boards slightly sewed together, and their paddles were made like those of Taheitee, with a knob at the end. We continually enquired for hogs, and told them to bring us some; and towards night we had the satisfaction to see a pig along-side, which we purchased for a knife. As soon as it was dark, the canoes retired, according to the general custom of all the nations in the South Sea we had hitherto seen, on whom the novelty of an European ship cannot prevail to wake a single night. The vallies in our harbour were very full of trees, and every part answered the graphical description which the Spaniards have given, and by which we were well convinced that their harbour of Madre de Dios was the same where we had anchored [169] See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection, vol. I. p. 66. . Its situation, deduced from astronomical observation, is in 9° 55' S. latitude, and 139° S. W. longitude. We saw many fires through the trees, at a great distance from the water, and concluded the country to be well inhabited. [Friday 8.]The next morning early we had a full view of the land, clear of the clouds which rested on it in the evening. On the south side rises a peak, which is very craggy and inaccessible. All the north side is a black, burnt hill, of which the rock is vaulted along the sea-shore, and the top clad to the summit with a shrubbery of casuarinas. But the bottom of the harbour is filled up with a very high ridge, level at top, and resembling the Table-mountain at the Cape of Good Hope. Several vallies, perfectly filled with trees, lead up from two beaches to the very summit of the mountain, which appears excessively steep. Along its uppermost edge we saw a row of stakes or pallisadoes, closely connected together, like a fortification, within which, by the help of our glasses, we discerned something like huts. These places we supposed to be what the Spaniards have called intrenchments; but they bore a great resemblance to the hippas of the New Zeelanders, which are commonly situated on high ridges, and surrounded with pallisades.

The natives, encouraged by the trade which we had begun the evening before, came off in several canoes, soon after sun-rise, and brought great quantities of bread fruit, which we bought for small nails. They likewise sold some bananas, and traded very fair for some time, but without venturing to come on board. However, after breakfast, it appeared that their disposition had but too much similarity with that of the Taheitians. Some of them began to deal dishonestly with us, receiving the nail for which they had offered a bread-fruit, without delivering it in return. The captain, to intimidate them, fired a musket over their heads. This had the desired effect, and they immediately handed up the fruit for which we had bargained. Some others, after they had sold their goods, came on board to be gazed at, and to gaze. While captain Cook prepared to go into his boat with my father, one of these natives, finding the large iron stanchion loose, to which the man-ropes on the ship's side, by which we ascended or descended, were fastened, snatched it up, leaped overboard with it, and, notwithstanding its weight, swam with great agility to his canoe, where he secured it. This hazardous enterprize being reported to captain Cook, who was just stepping into the boat, he ordered a musket to be fired over the native's head, whilst he meant to come round the ship, to recover the stanchion. The musket was fired, but the man took no notice of it, looking about him with great unconcern. The captain hearing it, ordered another to be fired, and put off from the ship. The second shot had no other effect than the first; upon which an officer, who that moment came upon deck, snatched up a musket, and taking exact aim, shot the man through the head. His companion in the same canoe instantly threw the iron into the sea, which had been the cause of this unfortunate event. The captain in his boat came up, and saw the canoe full of blood, and the dead corse lying in it. The other native baled the blood out into the sea, and then retired to the shore with all the other canoes, and left us perfectly alone. The natives on the beach hauled the canoe through the surf, and carried the corse up into the woods. Presently after we heard drums beating, and saw a considerable number of the inhabitants assembled on the beach, with spears and clubs in their hands, which had a very unfriendly appearance, and rather seemed to threaten that we had no farther refreshments to expect. We cannot but lament, that the time in which this man was killed, by a person who was ignorant of the nature of his offence, did not admit of any previous consideration. The first discoverers and conquerors of America have often, and very deservedly, been stigmatised with cruelty, because they treated the wretched nations of that continent, not as their brethren, but as irrational beasts, whom it was lawful to shoot for diversion; and yet, in our enlightened age, prejudice and rashness have often proved fatal to the inhabitants of the South Sea. Mahine burst into tears, when he saw one man killing another on so trifling an occasion. Let his feelings put those civilized Europeans to the blush, who have humanity so often on their lips, and so seldom in their hearts!

Captain Cook, knowing the weak condition of his crew, was unwilling to relinquish the hope of procuring refreshments at this island; and therefore, after directing the ship to be removed deeper into the harbour, selected a party of marines and sailors, and landed under the vaulted rocks to the northward, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, Mahine, my father, and myself. A great troop of the natives, consisting of more than a hundred men, received us on these rocks with spears and clubs in their hands, of which they did not attempt to make any use. We approached them with demonstrations of friendship, which they returned; and our first request was that they should sit down, to which they instantly agreed. We then endeavoured to shew the best side of what had happened, and acquainted them that we had only shot at one of their countrymen, because he had made free with our property; that we were desirous of living as friends with them; and that we only came to take in wood, water, and refreshments, for which we had nails, hatchets, and other curious articles to offer in return. The natives were pacified by our specious reasonings; they seemed to think their countryman had deserved his fate, and conducted us round the beach to a fine brook, where we established our waterers, and began to purchase some fruits, which were at first brought down very sparingly. For greater security, the marines were drawn up in a line, under arms, and our return to the water secured. But we had no occasion for these precautions; the people with whom we dealt were too honest to break a peace to which they had consented, and of too gentle a disposition to revenge the death of a man whom they could not entirely acquit. In a short time our trade went on more briskly, and the natives came down with loads of plantanes, bananas, and bread-fruit from the hills, which they sold for a trifling consideration of iron ware.

Among the croud we saw no women, they having probably retired to the mountains on the first alarm; but there were some men better armed and ornamented than the rest, who seemed to be their leaders. They were all without cloathing, having nothing but a small piece of cloth to cover the loins. They were tall, and extremely well limbed; not one of them unweildly or corpulent like a Taheitian, nor meagre and shrivelled like a native of Easter Island. The punctuation which almost entirely covered the men of a middle age, made it difficult to distinguish their elegance of form; but among the youths, who were not yet marked or tattowed, it was easy to discover beauties singularly striking, and often without a blemish, such as demanded the admiration of all beholders. Many of them might be placed near the famous models of antiquity, and would not suffer in the comparison:

Qualis aut Nireus fuit, aut aquosâ

Raptus ab Idâ,

Hor.

The natural colour of these youths was not quite so dark as that of the common people in the Society Isles; but the men appeared to be infinitely blacker, on account of the punctures which covered their whole body, from head to foot. These punctures were disposed with the utmost regularity; so that the marks on each leg, arm, and cheek, and on the corresponding muscles, were exactly similar. They never assumed the determinate form of an animal or plant, but consisted of a variety of blotches, spirals, bars, chequers, and lines, which had a most motley appearance. Their countenances were pleasing, open, and full of vivacity; their eyes were large and dark-coloured; their hair black, curled, and strong; a few excepted, who had light-coloured or sandy hair. The beard however was thin in general, on account of the numerous scars of punctures which commonly covered that part of the face. The number of ornaments, in some measure, might be said to supply the want of cloathing. On their heads many of them wore a kind of diadem; this consisted of a flat bandage wrought of coco-nut core, on the outside of which several round pieces of mother of pearl, some of them five inches in diameter, were fixed, covered in the middle with a plate of tortoise-shell, perforated like fret-work. Several tufts of long, black, and glossy cock's feathers formed the plumes to this head-dress, which was really beautiful and noble in its kind. Some wore round coronets of the small ligulated feathers of the man of war bird, and others a circle, from whence several ranges of twisted strings of coco-nut core, about two inches long, either of the natural colour, or dyed black, diverged round the head. In their ears they sometimes placed two flat pieces of a light wood, of an oval shape, about three inches long, covering the whole ear, and painted them white with lime. Their leaders wore a kind of gorget round the neck, or rather on the breast; it consisted of small portions of a light wood, like cork, glued together with gum, in a semicircular form; a quantity of scarlet-beans ( abrus precatorius, Linn.) are glued all round it with the same gum, forming a great number of rows, of the length of two or three inches. Those who were not possessed of this glaring ornament, at least wore a string round the neck, and fastened it to a piece of shell, which was cut and polished in the shape of a large tooth. They were also fond of having bunches of human hair tied on a string round their waist, arms, knees, and ancles. All these ornaments they freely parted with for a trifling consideration, except the last, which they valued very highly, though they were the usual residence of many vermin. It is probable that these bunches of hair were worn in remembrance of their dead relations, and therefore looked upon with some veneration; or else they may be the spoils of their enemies, worn as the honourable testimonies of victory. However a large nail, or something which struck their eyes, commonly got the better of their scruples.

After we had made these observations on the people who surrounded us, we left the beach, and rambled through the woods at a short distance from captain Cook's station, collecting several plants, of which we had seen the greatest part at the Society Islands. As we did not care to advance far into the country the first day, we confined ourselves to the low land, which bordered upon the beach, and which we found entirely uninhabited. However we met with a number of square compartments among the trees, laid out with great stones, mostly of a regular square figure; which we afterwards learnt, were the foundations of their houses. It may be conjectured from thence, that these places have been abandoned, on account of some inconvenience of the ground; or that they are only made use of at certain seasons. All this part was destitute of plantations, and covered with forest-trees, some of which seemed to be very good timber. The natives did not attempt to stop us, and left us to pursue our walk entirely by ourselves. A little hill, covered with long grass up to our middle, and broken into a perpendicular wall to the sea, juts forward, and divides this beach from another to the southward. On the north side of this hill we found a fine spring of clear water, in the very place where the Spanish navigators have described it, which gushes out of the rock, and is collected in a little bason, from whence it flows into the sea. A brook runs down from the higher hills close to it; another more considerable descends on the middle of the beach, and supplied us with water; and again another is to be met with in the northern corner. This island is therefore extremely well watered; and the vegetation, as well as the inhabitants, evidently derive great benefit from it in this hot climate. We soon returned to the trading place with our acquisitions, and conversed with the natives, who had now so far laid aside their distrust, as to part with their arms to us for our iron tools. These weapons were all made of the club-wood, or casuarina [170] The Taheitians call it óä, which signifies war, because it furnishes the instruments of bloodshed. , and were either plain spears, about eight or ten feet long, or clubs, which commonly had a large knob at one end. Captain Cook had been very successful in the meanwhile, having procured a great quantity of fruit and several hogs, with all which we embarked in our boats at noon. The weather which had been very warm on shore, was really much cooler on board, where the wind came down in strong gusts from the mountains, sometimes attended with small showers.

In the afternoon I remained on board, but my father accompanied the captain on shore, and went up the hill a little way to a wretched hut; but finding no inhabitants there, who had probably been alarmed by their shooting at birds, he put several nails on a few bread-fruit, which he saw close to the hut, and then descended to the beach with some botanical acquisitions.

[Saturday 9.]Seven canoes arrived about the ship from La Dominica the next morning, whilst several others from St. Christina went up the strait. The former seemed to be of the same nation with those with whom we were already acquainted, and brought the same fruits to sell, which we had purchased in this island. We went on shore after breakfast, and found our friendly natives assembled on the beach. Among them was a chief, who was dressed in a cloak manufactured of the paper-mulberry bark, like the Taheitian cloth, and who wore the diadem, the gorget, the ear-pendants, and bunches of hair. We learnt that this man was the king of the whole island, though he had not great respect shewn him. He presented captain Cook with some fruits and hogs, and continued in the neighbourhood of our people the whole day. He acquainted us that his name was Hònoo [171] This word signifies a turtle, or sea-tortoise, in the Taheitian language; it is therefore probable that the names of these people sometimes are taken from animals, like those of the North-American Indians. In the same manner O-Too, the name of the king of Taheitee, signifies a heron. , and that he was he-ka-aï, which was doubtless a title corresponding to the aree of Taheitee, and areekee of the Friendly Islands. He seemed to be a very good-natured, intelligent man, a character so prevalent in his countenance, that Mr. Hodges, who drew his picture, could not fail of expressing it, as may be seen in the print of him, in captain Cook's account of this voyage. We enquired for the name of this island and the adjacent ones, and found that St. Christina was called Waitahoo, La Dominica Heevaroa, and St. Pedro Onateyo. Mahine, who was excessively fond of these people, on account of the vast similarity between their manners, language and persons, and those of his nation, was continually engaged in conversation with them, and purchased a great number of their ornaments. He shewed them many customs of his country, with which they were unacquainted, and among these was the method of lighting a fire, by rubbing together the dry sticks of the hibiscus tiliaceus, to which they were extremely attentive. Captain Cook found a great quantity of vegetables, some fowls and hogs, at the trading place, which he purchased for small nails, knives, pieces of cloth, &c. The red feathers of Tonga-Tabboo or Amsterdam Island, were likewise in great repute here, and the natives gave many head-dresses, and other ornaments, in exchange for them. We saw only one woman this day, who sat down in the circle of her countrymen, and was dressed in a piece of cloth made of bark, like the women of the Society Islands. She was an elderly woman, and scarce distinguishable from a Taheitian. We walked this day about a mile and a half, on the south side of the rivulet. After crossing a clear spot, some whence we had a full prospect of the harbour, we entered a thick wood, where we saw chiefly the ratta, or Taheitee nuttrees ( inocarpus [172] See Forst. Nova Genera Plantar. ) which grew to a considerable size and height, and some fine bread-fruit trees; both which are planted in the plains at Taheitee, the heat being less violent there than at these islands. At last we came to one of the huts of the natives, which, in comparison with the lofty houses of the Society Islands, was only a wretched hovel. It was placed on an elevated platform of stones, which were not smooth and even enough to form a very comfortable couch, though they were covered with mats. On this base the natives had erected a quantity of bamboo-canes, closely connected together, between five and six feet high, above which the roof rose in a ridge at top, consisting of small sticks, thatched with the leaves of the bread-fruit and ratta tree. The whole house might be about fifteen feet long, and eight or ten feet broad, and the method of placing it on a foundation of stones, seemed to intimate that the country is subject to heavy rains and inundations at certain seasons. We saw some large wooden troughs here, and found pieces of bread-fruit, mixed with water, in them. Three natives appeared near the hut, who, at our desire, went down about a hundred yards to the brook, and brought us some fresh water to drink. Having rewarded them for their readiness to serve us, we walked to the beach, and from thence returned on board. In getting into our boat, we ran the greatest risk in the world of being overset, and were wetted by the surf, which broke upon the rocks. Mahine, who still remained on shore, plunged into the water, and swam to the boat, to prevent our exposing ourselves once more to the same danger in taking him in.

Dr. Sparrman staid on board with me in the afternoon, describing and drawing some plants which we had collected in the morning; but my father returned ashore with the captain to the southern beach, where he found several habitations near the sea, but saw no women. This was the same beach to which the natives had carried the dead body of their countryman. They were conducted to a house, which had been that unfortunate man's dwelling, and saw several hogs there, now the property of his son, a youth of fifteen years, to whom they made several expiatory presents. Our people enquired for his female relations, but were told they remained on the top of the mountain, to weep and mourn for the dead. We had some reason to suspect, from this account, that the pallisades or enclosures along the top of the rock, surrounded the burying-places of the inhabitants. The captain purchased a quantity of fruit, and several hogs, at this beach; and though he was in the midst of the relations of a man whom our people had killed, he did not perceive the least animosity or spirit of revenge amongst them.

The next morning Dr. Sparrman went on shore with me to the watering place, where the trade for provisions was very considerable. Our iron ware was however lowered in value at least two hundred per cent. since our anchorage in the harbour. Our small nails, which they had eagerly taken at first, were now no longer current; and even the large ones were not much coveted. Beads were not esteemed at all; but ribbons, cloth, and other trifles were more agreeable. Some large hogs were purchased for pieces of the mulberry-bark, covered with red feathers, which we had obtained at the island of Amsterdam or Tonga-Tabboo.

The weather was exceedingly hot this day, for which reason many of the inhabitants made use of large fans to cool themselves. These fans, of which they sold us a great number, were formed of a kind of tough bark or grass, very firmly and curiously plaited, and frequently whitened with shell-lime. Some also had large feathered leaves, which answered the purpose of an umbrella, and upon examination, were found to belong to the corypha umbraculi-fera, Linn. a kind of palm. The fans are represented on a reduced scale on the same plate, with the head-dresses of these people, and inserted in captain Cook's account of this voyage.

Notwithstanding the immense heat of the day, we resolved to ascend the mountain, in hopes of being well rewarded for the trouble, by the discoveries we should make. The pallisades at the top were particularly what we aimed at, none of our people having hitherto any idea of them. Mr. Patton and two other gentlemen were of the party. We soon crossed the fine rivulet, at which our people watered, and followed the path on the north side, seeing that the greatest number of inhabitants had come down from thence. The ascent was at first not very fatiguing; several gentle hills formed the fore-ground, which were almost level on the summits, and contained several spacious plantations of bananas, in excellent order. These spots always opened upon us unexpectedly, as the rest of our way lay through a close tufted wood of fruit-trees, mixed with other sorts, extremely pleasant to us, on account of the thick and cooling shade. Here and there we met with a solitary coco-nut palm, which, far from lifting its royal head with becoming pride, was out-topped and hid by meaner trees. In general these trees do not thrive well upon mountains, preferring a low situation; insomuch that they abound upon the coral-ledges, where they have scarcely soil sufficient to take root. A few natives accompanied us, and some others met us with fruit, which they carried to our trading place. In proportion as we ascended, we passed a number of their houses, which were all built upon an elevated base of stones, and exactly upon the plan of that which I have described, page 21. some of them seemed to be very lately built, and looked very clean within; but we could not distinguish the number of beds in them, of which the Spaniards make mention, and suspected that they only meant different mats spread on the floor. The ground became much steeper and rugged as we advanced. The rivulet frequently ran in a deep glen, on the brink of which the path was rather dangerous. We were likewise obliged to cross the water several times in our way; but always found the habitations more numerous towards the top. We rested in several places, and were presented with fruit and a little water by the natives, who resembled the Taheitians too much in other respects, to be unlike them in hospitality. We never saw a single deformed, nor even ill-proportioned man among them; all were strong, tall, well-limbed, and active in the greatest degree. The nature of their country contributes towards their activity; and the exercise which they are obliged to take, probably preserves their elegance of form. Having advanced near three miles from the sea side, we saw a young woman, who came out of a house before us, and hastened up the hills as fast as we advanced. She was dressed in a piece of cloth, made of the mulberry-tree's bark, and reaching to the knees. Her features were like those of the Taheitee women, as far as we could discern at the distance of thirty yards, which she took care to preserve between herself and us, and her stature was middle sized. The natives made many signs to us to return, and seemed to be very uneasy and much displeased at our progress. Dr. Sparrman and myself, desirous of preserving the plants which we had collected, turned back, whilst Mr. Patton and the rest went on about two miles farther, without seeing any thing more than ourselves. We were the more easily persuaded to desist from our purpose, as the heat of the day, our precarious state of health, and the fatigue of the ascent, had entirely exhausted us, and as we saw no prospect of reaching the summit. It appeared indeed at least three miles distant from the place where we stopped, the greatest part of which seemed to be infinitely steeper than what we had hitherto left behind us. The whole ground, as far as we had gone, was covered with a rich mould, and contained excellent plantations, and groves of various fruit-trees. The rocks under this mould, which appeared chiefly near the banks of the rivulet, or on the broken sides of the path, contained volcanic productions, or different kinds of lava, some of which are full of white and greenish sherls. These islands are therefore similar, in regard to their origin and the nature of their minerals, to the Society Islands, the greater part of which seem to have had burning mountains. About the houses we frequently saw hogs, and fowls of a large sort, and now and then some rats. The trees were likewise inhabited by several small birds, which resembled those of Taheitee and the Society Islands; but they were not frequent, and in no great variety. The Marquesas, upon the whole, so much resemble the Society Islands, that they only seemed to want the beautiful ambient plain, and the coral reef, which forms their excellent harbours. No people in the South Sea, whom we had hitherto met with, were so much like each other in form, customs, and language, as the inhabitants of both these groups of islands. The principal difference seemed to lie in the different degrees of cleanliness. The Taheitians, and their next neighbours of the Society Islands, are perhaps the cleanliest people under the sun; they bathe two or three times a day, and wash their hands and face before and after every meal. The inhabitants of the Marquesas did not make their ablutions so frequently, and were besides very slovenly in the manner of preparing their meals. Their principal food is bread-fruit, which they roast over the fire, rarely baking it under ground; when it is sufficiently done, they put it into a very dirty wooden trough, out of which their hogs are fed at other times, and mix it up with water. This mixture they scoop out with their hands. They also prepare fermented paste from their bread-fruit, of which they make the same kind of acidulous pottage, which is a great dainty with the Taheitian chiefs. Their bread-fruit is doubtless the largest and most delicious which we ever tasted; and as we bought many of them perfectly ripe, we found them as soft as a kind of custard, and in that state too luscious to be eaten. Their food consists of the same variety of fruit and roots which are common at Taheitee, except the apple ( spondias). Their diet is chiefly vegetable; though they have hogs and fowls, and catch abundance of fish at certain times. Their drink is purely water, since coco-nuts are scarce, at least in the parts which we visited. It is however to be suspected, that since they have the pepper-root, and make use of it as a sign of peace, like the other islanders, they may also prepare the same dainty beverage from it, with which the others intoxicate themselves. They are peculiarly cleanly in regard to the egesta. At the Society Islands the wanderer's eyes and nose are offended every morning, in the midst of a path, with the natural effects of a sound digestion: but the natives of the Marquesas are accustomed, after the manner of our cats, to bury the offensive objects in the earth. At Taheitee, indeed, they depend on the friendly assistance of rats, who greedily devour these odoriferous dainties; nay they seemed to be convinced that their custom is the most proper in the world; for their witty countryman, Tupaya ( Tupia), found fault with our want of delicacy, when he saw a little building, appropriated to the rites of Cloacina, in every house at Batavia.

We hastened down to the sea-side, in order to reach it before our boats put off. When we came to the ship, we found it surrounded with canoes from different parts, who brought several hogs and plenty of bananas for sale. The alarm which our unfortunate act of violence had spread among the natives on the first day, was now forgotten, and they came into the ship in great numbers, conversing familiarly with our people, and expressing great satisfaction at every thing which they saw. They had even so far laid aside all thoughts of what had happened, that many began to pilfer again, as often as an opportunity offered; however, if they were detected, they never failed to return very quietly what they had taken. They frequently danced upon the decks, for the diversion of our sailors; and in these dances we observed a striking resemblance with those of Taheitee. It appeared likewise that their music was nearly the same, especially as they had the same kind of drums, of which Mahine purchased one. Their canoes were likewise very similar to those of Taheitee, but of not great size. The heads commonly had some flat upright piece, on which the human face was coarsely carved; and their sails were made of mats, triangular, and very broad at the top. The paddles which they used were made of a heavy hard wood, short, but sharp-pointed, and with a knob at the upper end.

I staid on board in the afternoon, and ranged the collections which we had hitherto made. In the evening, captain Cook, with some officers, Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, and my father, returned on board, having been out all the afternoon to visit two coves to the south of our harbour. They found these places extremely open, and exposed to the sea, and run great risk in landing and embarking, on account of the prodigious surf on the beach. They met with abundance of refreshments for their pains, and purchased several hogs. The natives were less reserved in both places than in our harbour, and a considerable number of women appeared among them, with whom the boat's crew soon became acquainted, since several of them had as much complaisance as certain ladies at the Society and Friendly Islands, New Zeeland, and Easter Island. They were inferior to the men in stature, but well proportioned, and some in feature approached the pleasing contour of the Taheitian women of quality. Their general colour was the same as among the common people of the Society Islands, and only very few were a little fairer than the rest. No punctures were observed on them, though the other sex are so much accustomed to disfigure themselves with this unsightly ornament. One of the handsomest consented to be drawn by Mr. Hodges, and an exact engraving, made from his drawing, is inserted in captain Cook's account of this voyage. All the women wore pieces of cloth of the mulberry bark, of different sorts; but the variety of these cloths was very trifling, compared with what it is at Taheitee; and it seemed the quantity was likewise inconsiderable, for, instead of being wrapped up in that number of pieces, so common among the luxurious chiefs of that island, they only wore a single ahòw or cloak, which covered them from the shoulders to the knees. Round their necks they sometimes had a few loose strings, which were not very ornamental; but our people took notice of no other finery among them. After a short stay, our party prepared to return to their boat. One of the sailors, having been inattentive to his duty, received several blows from the captain. This trifling circumstance would not deserve a place in this narrative, but for the observation, which the natives made upon it. As soon as they saw it, they shewed it one to another, and exclaimed tapè a-hai te tina, " he beats his brother." We were well convinced from other instances that they knew the difference between the commander and his people; but it appeared at the same time, that they looked upon us all as brethren. The most natural inference in my mind is, that they only applied an idea to us in this case, which really exists with regard to themselves. They probably look on themselves as one family, of which the eldest born is the chief or king. As their community is not yet arrived at that degree of civilization which the Taheitians enjoy, a difference of rank does not take place among them and their political constitution has not acquired a settled monarchical form. The nature of their country, which requires a greater labour and culture than Taheitee, is one great cause of this difference; for since the means of subsistence are not so easily attained, the population and the general luxury, cannot be so considerable, and the people remain upon a level. Agreeable to this observation, we have found that no particular honour or respect was paid to their king Honoo, who visited us on the second day after our arrival. All his pre-eminence seemed to consist in his dress, which was more complete than that of many of his people, who by choice, or through indolence, go naked in a happy tropical climate, where cloathing is not wanted.

[Monday 11.]The next morning the captain went to the same cove again, but was much less successful than on the preceding evening. The natives, who were not yet sufficiently acquainted with the excellence and durability of our iron ware, refused to take it any longer, and coveted a number of articles, which it was not in our power to part with. In the afternoon, therefore, we weighed the anchor, and stood out of the harbour of Madre de Dios, where we had lain something less than four days. We had provided a considerable quantity of excellent water during that time, and obtained a very salutary supply of refreshments from a friendly and well-disposed people. Our acquisitions in natural history had been but inconsiderable, from the great similarity of this island to Taheitee and the adjacent group, and on account of our very short stay. The same causes had likewise prevented our forming a more perfect acquaintance with the natives, who seemed to be well worth the contemplation of philosophic travellers. We particularly regretted, that it had not been in our power to examine those enclosures on the summits of the mountain, which, as I still suspect, have some connection with their religious rites. The Spaniards make mention of an oracle [173] See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 68. , which, from their accounts, seems to have been a burying place, like those of the Society Islands; but we were likewise unfortunate enough not to meet with any thing of this kind. The number of these good people cannot be very considerable, on account of the small size of the islands which they inhabit. Waitahoo , or St. Christina, is about eight leagues in circuit; O-Heeva-roa [174] It is remarkable, that this name occurs in the list of islands which Tupaya and other natives of the Society Isles communicated to their English friends. The people of the Marquesas who could not pronounce the r, always said O-Heeva-oa. , or Dominica, fifteen leagues; Onateyo, or St. Pedro, three leagues; and Magdalena, which we only saw at a great distance, five leagues, according to the Spanish account. The natives of these different islands, we have great reason to believe, are all of one of the same tribe, like the people of Taheitee and the Society Isles; we may at least affirm it with certainty of those of St. Christina and Dominica, having conversed and traded with both. The island of Dominica, the largest of the Marquesas, is so excessively steep and craggy in many parts, that its inhabitants cannot be so numerous as those of St. Christina in proportion to its size. Such spots as are fit for culture are very populous in these islands; but as they are all very mountainous, and have many inaccessible and barren rocks, it is to be doubted whether the whole population of this group amounts to fifty thousand persons. The Spaniards, who discovered them, found their manners gentle and inoffensive, if we except a trifling difference at Magdalena, which probably arose from some misunderstanding, or from the impetuous temper of those navigators. When we arrived amongst them, we were received with every mark of friendship. They presented us with roots of pepper, and branches of tamannoo ( calophyllum inophyllum, Linn.) in sign of peace; they sold us their provisions; and though we killed one of their brethren, they continued the same kind treatment, and permitted us to roam about their country to a great distance without molestation. This behaviour, their manners, their beautiful forms, their dresses, provisions, embarkations, and their language, prove that they have the same origin with the Taheitians, and only differ from them in a few respects, which the nature of their country required. The advantages which the rich encircling plains bestow on the Taheitians and their near neighbours, must drop in great measure at the Marquesas. When they have cultivated as much ground as will afford them the means of subsistence, there is none remaining for those extensive plantations of mulberry-trees, which every where strike the eye at Taheitee: indeed if they had the ground, they cannot afford to bestow the time which this branch of culture requires. The great sources of Taheitian affluence and luxury, their profusion of food, and their vast variety and quantity of cloth, do not exist in the Marquesas: but the inhabitants have a competence; they are all equal among themselves; they are active, very healthy, and beautifully made; there is nothing which can make them unhappy, by debarring them the means of obeying nature's voice. The Taheitians have more comforts and conveniencies; they have perhaps superior skill in the arts, and these things give them a greater relish for the enjoyment of life; but to balance these advantages, they are no longer upon a level; one part lives by the labours of the other, and diseases already wait upon their excesses.

_________Scilicet improbӕ

Crescunt divitiӕ, tamen

Curtӕnescio quid semper abest rei.

Hor.

The fruits and fresh meat which we obtained at the Marquesas, may be considered as the first restoratives after a cruize of four months and a half; during which we visited the frozen zone to 71 deg. and the torrid to 9 1/2 deg. S. latitude. The small supply of potatoes at Easter Island was only a medicine, which providentially stopped the rapid progress of various diseases on board, but could not prevent their return, when we approached the torrid zone; whose active heat set our stagnant and putrid blood into a state fermentation. The wan look of all on board sufficiently proved, that our meeting with the Marquesas prevented a fatal and general attack of noxious distempers, which would have found us an easy prey, and might, in a short space of time, have made great havock in our ship. It must be allowed, at the same time, that, as far as human art, and a humane beneficent disposition will go, our worthy surgeon, Mr. Patton , took the best precautions possible to preserve the healths of all on board, by suggesting the proper methods to captain Cook, and by watching over us with unremitted assiduity. I will venture to affirm, that it is to him alone, under Providence, that many of us are indebted for our lives; and that his country owes him the preservation of those valuable and useful members of the commonwealth, who were sent out on this dangerous expedition. Great commendations are likewise due to captain Cook, who left no experiment untried which was proposed to him, and which seemed to promise success. The fate of the voyage depended upon the health of the crew, and he had the more merit in taking his measures agreeably to this reflection, since, however obvious it may seem, it has seldom guided other naval commanders.

The short stay at the Marquesas had not been sufficient to restore our patients to perfect health, and those who had the bilious cholic were rather worse than before, having ventured to eat flatulent fruits, which were extremely dangerous in a weak stomach. Captain Cook himself was far from being recovered; for though he had experienced the bad effects of exposing himself to the burning rays of the sun at Easter Islands, he had been active all the time, in purchasing provisions, and superintending his people on shore. The effort which I had made in climbing the mountain, had likewise been too violent for my precarious state of health, and threw me into a dangerous bilious disorder, which was the more mortifying, as it happened just at a time, when the scene for my occupations was to open.

We steered S. S. W. from St. Christina, and afterwards changed the course to S. W. and W. 1/2°S. bringing to, every night, for greater safety, as we were now very near the archipelago of low islands, which had always been looked upon as a very intricate part of the Pacific Ocean. The Dutch navigators, in particular, have given an unfavourable idea of it; for Schouten calls it the Bad Sea, and Roggewein the Labyrinth. The latter lost one of his ships, the African Galley, on a low island, which, from that unfortunate accident, he called Pernicious Island. This circumstance having happened within the memory of man, is known among the Society Isles; from whence we may conclude, that Pernicious Island cannot be at a great distance from that group.

[Sunday 17.]On the 17th we discovered a low island, about ten o'clock in the morning, and coming up with it about noon, we were convinced, from the perspicuity of Mr. Byron's description, that it was the eastermost of King George's Islands. We were also confirmed in this belief towards night, when we perceived the other island, which he comprehended under that name. The island before us was extremely low and sandy, and formed an elliptic rocky ledge, no less than six leagues in its longest diameter, from north to south. Its latitude is 14° 28' S. and its longitude 144° 56' W. From space to space it was covered with coco-nut trees in great numbers, which had a pleasing airy look. Various trees and shrubberies sometimes concealed the stems of these palms to a great part of their height, but their beautiful crown always towered above the rest. The intervals between these green spots were so low, that the sea washed over them into the lagoon within. The stillness of the water, confined by the ledge of rocks, and its milky hue where it was shallow, contrasted very agreeably with the ruffled surface of the berylline unfathomable ocean. We sailed close along the western side of the island in the afternoon, and observed the rocks to be tinged with a fine scarlet colour in many places, exactly as Mr. Byron had found them. Several canoes sailing in the lagoon, smokes rising up between the clumps of trees, and armed men of a dark hue running along shore, were objects which greatly encreased the pleasure of the prospect. We likewise perceived women retiring to a remote part of the ledge, with bundles on their backs; an evident sign that they expected no good from our appearance on their coast. Indeed, having had the misfortune to lose some of their countrymen in opposing Mr. Byron's boats, and having been expelled from their habitation during a whole day by his people, who lived at discretion on their coco-nuts, it is not surprising that they secured their small possessions against the invasion of people who looked so like their enemies. Towards the S. W. end of the island we perceived the passage into the lagoon, which Mr. Byron mentions, and sent a boat to sound in its entrance, because at that time we were not yet acquainted with his ill success in the same attempt. Our people found a bottom of sharp corals, which made it impracticable for the ship to anchor. The natives, who were assembled in arms on the north point of the passage, behaved very quietly, and brought some coco-nuts, which were exchanged for nails. Upon this information, another boat was hoisted out, and both sent to the shore again, in order to trade with the natives, and to efface the sinister ideas which they seemed to have conceived of us at first. My father, Dr. Sparrman, and myself were of the party; though I was extremely ill of a bilious complaint. We landed without any opposition, and immediately mixed among the natives, of whom there seemed to be about fifty or sixty. They were all a set of stout men, of a dark brown, and had some punctures on the breast, belly, and hands, chiefly in imitation of fishes, which furnish a great part of their food. Their features were not disagreeable, but more mild than those of the natives of all the high islands about them. They went perfectly naked, having only a very small piece of cloth about their loins. Their women did not come near us; but those whom we saw at a distance had the same colour as the men, and their piece of cloth was enlarged to the size of a short apron. The hair and beards were generally black and curling, but sometimes cut; however I took notice of a single man, whose hair was quite yellowish at the points. As soon as we landed they embraced us, touching our noses, after the custom of New Zeeland, and began to bring coco-nuts and dogs for sale to the boats. Mahine, who was with us, purchased several dogs for small nails, and some for ripe bananas, which he had brought from the Marquesas. This fruit was much valued by the people of the low island, who immediately knew it; it should seem therefore that they have some acquaintance with the high islands, since bananas never grow upon their barren coral-ledges. The dogs were not unlike those at the Society Islands, but had fine long hair of a white colour. Mahine therefore was eager to purchase them, because that very sort of hair is made use of in his country to adorn the breast-plates of the warriors. We attempted to go directly into the grove, under which the habitations were situated; but the natives opposing it, we advanced along the point, picking various plants, and particularly a scurvy-grass, which was common, and seemed to be very wholesome. The natives shewed us that they bruised this plant, mixed it with shell-fish, and threw it into the sea, wherever they perceive a shoal of fishes. This food intoxicates them for some time, and thus they are caught on the surface, without any other trouble than that of taking them up. The name which they give to this useful plant is e-Now. We likewise met with plenty of purslane, resembling the common sort, which the natives call e-Tooree. This plant likewise grows at the Society Islands, and is there dressed under-ground, and eaten by the people. There were several sorts of trees on this island which grow in the Society Isles, and likewise some plants which we had not seen before. The soil was extremely scanty; the foundation consisted of coral, very little elevated above the surface of the water. On this we found a coarse white sand, mixed with fragments of coral and shells, and a very thin covering of mould. We advanced insensibly round the point, so as to come behind the habitations, and discovered another point jutting out into the lagoon, and forming a kind of bay, of which the shore was perfectly covered with shrubberies and groves. Between the two points the water was very shallow; and we perceived a great body of the natives crossing over from the farthest point, and dragging their spears after them. We immediately retired into the thicket, and passed by the huts, of which all the inhabitants were on the beach. These huts were very small and low, covered with a kind of matting of coco-nut branches. We only saw some dogs in them. Their boat-houses were exactly of the same materials, only a little larger. The canoes in them were very short, but stout, and pointed at both ends, and had sharp keel. As soon as we came on the beach, we mixed among the natives, who were rather surprised to see us come out of their village. We acquainted the lieutenant who commanded our boats with the hostile appearances we had seen, upon which our people were upon their guard, and prepared to reimbark. In the mean time Mahine assisted us in conversing with the natives, who told us that they had a chief or areekee, and that they called their island Teoukea. Their language, upon the whole, approached very much to the Taheitian dialect, except that their pronunciation was more coarse and guttural. The reinforcement now began to appear in the bushes, armed with long clubs, or round short staves, and spears, some fourteen feet, some nine feet long, pointed with the jagged tail of the sting-ray. We therefore stepped into our boats, but the natives crouded about them, and seemed in doubt whether they should detain us or not; however, as our retreat had been too early for their scheme, they appeared contented with our departure, and assisted us in pushing off the boats. Some threw small stones into the water near us, and all seemed to glory in having, as it were, frightened us off. They all talked a great deal, and very loud, after we were gone, and at last seated themselves along the beach, in the shade of the trees. We were no sooner on board, and had recited our adventures, than the captain ordered four or five cannon-shot to be fired over their heads, and into the sea before them, to shew what he could do. These balls, and especially the last, terrified them so much, that they all ran away from this point with the greatest precipitation. The number of coco-nuts which we obtained among them did not amount to more than thirty, and the dogs were about five. Mr. Byron found wells on this island, which, though they afforded but a small quantity of fresh water, may be sufficient to supply the few inhabitants with this necessary element. That navigator likewise met with burying-places of stone, in the grove, which have a very great affinity with the Taheitian maraïs. The offerings of animal and vegetable food, hung on the branches of trees around these cemeteries, strengthen that similarity. There is reason to believe, from this circumstance, as well as from the form, manners, and language of the people, that they are very nearly allied to the happier inhabitants of the mountainous isles in the neighbourhood. The great lagoons within their circular islands are probably plentiful reservoirs of fish, from whence they are supplied with constant food. The sandy barren part of their ledges is a fit place upon which turtles may deposit their eggs; and it appears from the fragments found by the Dolphin's people, that they know how to catch these large creatures, whose nutritive flesh and shell must be a delicious treat to them. The few plants which thrive about them are very useful, and furnish them with the means of facilitating the capture of fish; some trees are so large that their trunks may be used for canoes, and their branches for weapons and tools. The coco-palm, which is the principal support of many nations on the globe, is likewise of infinite service to them, and almost every part of it is useful. The nuts which it bears, whilst they are green, contain from a pint to a quart of limpid liquor, which has a very pleasant sweetness, joined to a peculiar agreeable flavour; its coolness and integrant particles, doubtless, make it a most delicious draught, powerful beyond comparison in quenching thirst in a hot climate. When the nut grows older, the kernel forms, which is at first like a rich cream, and afterwards grows firm and very oily, like an almond, being extremely nutritious. The oil is frequently expressed, and employed to anoint the hair and the whole body, at certain times. The hard shell provides the natives with cups; and the fibrous coating round it affords all kinds of cordage, which are strong, elastic, and not much impaired by constant use. Several articles of Indian houshold furniture, and several sorts of ornaments are made with it. The long feathered leaves or branches, which spread from the top of the stem, are fit coverings for their houses; and when plaited, make good baskets for provisions. The inner bark yields a kind of cloth, sufficient for covering the body in a hot climate; and the stem itself, when grown too old to bear, is at least fit to be used in the construction of a hut, or may make the mast of a canoe. But besides fish and vegetable food, they have also dogs, which live upon fish, and are reckoned excellent meat by the natives of the Society Islands, to whom they are known. Thus Providence, in its wise dispensations, made even these insignificant narrow ledges rich enough in the productions of nature, to supply a whole race of men with the necessaries of life. And here we cannot but express our admiration, that the minutest agents are subservient to the purposes of the Almighty Creator. The coral is known to be the fabrick of a little worm, which enlarges its house, in proportion as its own bulk encreases. This little creature, which has scarce sensation enough to distinguish it from a plant, builds up a rocky structure from the bottom of a sea too deep to be measured by human art, till it reaches the surface, and offers a firm basis for the residence of man! The number of these low islands is very great, and we are far from being acquainted with them all. In the whole extent of the Pacific Ocean, between the tropics, they are to be met with; however, they are remarkably frequent for the space of ten or fifteen degrees to the eastward of the Society Islands. Quiros, Schouten, Roggewein, Byron, Wallis, Carteret, Bougainville, and Cook have each met with new islands in their different courses; and what is most remarkable, they have found them inhabited at the distance of two hundred and forty leagues to the east of Taheitee. Nothing is more probable than that on every new track other islands of this kind will still be met with, and particularly between the 16th and 17th degree of S. latitude, no navigator having hitherto run down on that parallel towards the Society Islands. It remains a subject worthy the investigation of philosophers, to consider from what probable principles these islands are so extremely numerous, and form so great an archipelago to windward of the Society Islands, whilst they are only scattered at considerable distances beyond that group of mountainous islands? It is true, there is another archipelago of coral ledges far to the westward; I mean the Friendly Islands; but these are of a different nature, and appear to be of a much older date; they occupy more space, and have a greater quantity of soil, on which all the vegetable productions of the higher lands may be raised.

[Monday 18.]After leaving Teoukea we stood off and on during night, and then continued our course beyond the adjacent island, which is comprehended under Mr. Byron's appellation of King George's Islands. It resembled Teoukea perfectly, and only seemed to be larger. Its length from N. to S. appeared to be near eight leagues, and the breadth of its lagoon five or six miles. It had numerous clumps of bushes and trees, and was adorned with a great number of coco-nut palms.

[Tuesday 19.]The next morning, at eight o'clock, we decried another island of the same nature, but which we suppose had not been seen before. Towards noon another appeared to the westward, which we coasted all the afternoon. It was about eight leagues long, and full of people, who ran along the shore with very long spears in their hands. The lagoon within was very spacious, and several canoes sailed about upon it. It appears to me, that the most elevated and richest spots on the coral-ledges, are generally to leeward, sheltered from the violence of the surf. In this sea, however, there are seldom such violent storms, as might make these isles uncomfortable places of abode; and when the weather is fair, it must be very pleasant sailing on the smooth water in the lagoon, whilst the ocean without is disagreeably agitated. A third new island was seen in the evening, which we left the next morning, after we had lain to all night. This group captain Cook called Palliser's Islands; they are situated in about 15° 36' S. latitude, and 146° 30' W.longitude. The northernmost of these islands seem to be the Pernicious Islands on which Roggewein lost the African galley. As Mr. Byron found a boat's rudder on Teoukea, which is at a short distance from these isles, that circumstance serves to confirm my supposition [175] See Hawkesworth, vol. I. p. 102. .

We now steered to the S. W. being clear of the low-islands, and continued standing on, the following night, towards the island of Taheite. The general satisfaction which this course gave to all on board can scarcely be described. Assured of the good disposition of the inhabitants, we could look upon this island as our second home. Our sick had some hopes of recovery, by having an opportunity of walking or resting in its cool shades, and by using the light salubrious diet of the islanders. The rest expected to acquire new strength and vigour, to enable them to encounter those perils and hardships which were yet in reserve for them. The captain was sure of meeting with that abundance of refreshments, which would enable him to bring the voyage to a happy conclusion; the astronomer longed to fix an observatory on shore, in order to determine the rate of going of the time-keeper, which had not been settled since our departure from New Zeeland; and we were not less desirous of returning to this island, in order to complete, in some measure, a botanical collection, which our short stay in the winter season had left but too imperfect.

Our friend Mahine was perhaps more anxious than us all to see Taheitee, which he had never visited, though many of his relations and friends resided there. As the natives of the Society Islands allow it the first rank in affluence and power; and as we had frequently confirmed this testimony to him, his curiosity was so much the greater. But he had other motives which prompted him to wish himself there.

He had collected a considerable number of curiosities, which he was well convinced would give him weight among his countrymen; and he had acquired such a variety of new ideas, and seen so many distant and unknown countries, that he was persuaded he would attract and demand their attention. The prospect of being courted by every body, and the idea of distinguishing himself by his intimacy with us, by his acquaintance with our manners, and above all, by making use of our fire arms for his diversion, gave him infinite pleasure. It is not to be doubted, that it was inhanced by the hope of being serviceable to all his shipmates, whom he loved with the sincerest affection, and by whom he was generally esteemed in return.

[Thursday 21.]We discovered land about ten o'clock the next morning, which in a few hours afterwards we knew to be part of Taheitee. We stood towards it all the day, but could not reach it before it became dark, and were therefore obliged to stay out another night. Every person on board gazed continually at this queen of tropical islands; and though I was extremely ill of my bilious disorder, I crawled on deck, and fixed my eyes with great eagerness upon it, as upon a place where I hoped my pains would ease. Early in the morning I awoke, and was as much surprised at the beauty of the prospect, as if I had never beheld it before. It was indeed infinitely more beautiful at present, than it had been eight months ago, owing to the difference of the season. The forests on the mountains were all clad in fresh foliage, and gloried in many variegated hues; and even the lower hills were not entirely destitute of pleasing sports, and covered with herbage. But the plains, above all, shone forth in the greatest luxuriance of colours, the brightest tints of verdure being profusely lavished upon their fertile groves; in short, the whole called to our mind the description of Calypso's enchanted island.

With such a landscape before us, it cannot be doubted, but that our eyes were continually fixed upon it. We had the farther pleasure to distinguish every well-known spot as we sailed along. At last the beautiful scenery of Matavaï opened to our view in all its grandeur; and we directed our course into the bay, from whence we had sailed near eight months before.

CHAP. VI.

An account of our second visit to the island of o-Taheitee.

Ille terrarum mihi prӕter omnes

Angulus ridet

___________ Hor.

[1774. April.][Friday 22.]WE were no sooner discovered from the shore, than several canoes put off to welcome us with presents of fruit. Among the first who came on board, were two young men of some note, whom we immediately invited into the cabin, where they were made acquainted with Mahine. The politeness of the nation required that they should make him a present of clothing; accordingly they took off their own upper garments, which were of the best sort, and put them on him. He gratified them in return with a sight of his rarities, and made them a present of a few red feathers, which they valued very highly.

At eight o'clock in the morning we dropped an anchor in Matavaï bay, and were surrounded presently after by a whole fleet of canoes, in which our old friends brought us fish, bread-fruit, apples, coco-nuts, and bananas, all which they sold at low rates with the greatest readiness. Their fish were mullets and bonitos, which they brought perfectly alive in a kind of trough, fixed between the two hulls of a double canoe, and provided with wicker-work at both ends, where the water freely entered.

Some tents were now established once more on Point Venus, for the purpose of making astronomical observations, as well as for the convenience of trading, wooding, and watering. The captain, Dr. Sparrman, and my father went on shore, whilst I remained on board so ill that I could scarcely crawl about. I amused myself, however, in trading out of the cabin windows, and by that means collected a number of curious fish, whilst they brought home nothing new from their excursion. They had found the appearance of the whole country much improved; the verdure luxuriant, many trees still loaded with fruit; the brooks full of water, and a great number of new houses built. Mahine, who went on shore with them, did not return at night, having found several of his relations, and particularly a sister, named Teïòä, one of the prettiest women on the whole island, who was married to a tall, well-made man, called Noona, of the better class of people, and native of Raietea. His house was very large, and near our tents, being only about a hundred yards beyond the river. Mahine had laid aside his European cloaths before he went on shore, and put on the elegant new dresses his friends had brought him, with a degree of pleasure and eagerness, in which a natural predilection for the manners of his country was very conspicuous. There are many instances among different nations in an imperfect state of civilization, and likewise among savages, that the force of habit produces this effect. It is no wonder that a native of the Society Isles should prefer the happy life, the wholesome diet, and the simple dress of his countrymen, to the constant agitation, the nauseous food, and the coarse aukward garments of a set of seafaring Europeans; when we have seen Eskimaux return with the utmost ardour to their own desolate country, to greasy seal-skins, and rancid train-oil, after having been entertained with substantial viands, the pomp of dress, and the magnificence of London. Mahine had indeed found the happiness and pleasure which he had expected. He was courted and looked upon as a prodigy by all the Taheitians who saw him; he was feasted with their choicest meats, he received several changes of dress, and revelled among the nymphs of the land. Sensible to pleasure, like all the children of nature, but debarred the sight of his pretty countrywomen for a long while, and perhaps tinctured with a double relish for sensuality by his acquaintance with sailors, the facility of gratifying every wish had endeared the country to him, and captivated him more than any thing else. Besides these incitements, the ship, in a warm climate, was but an uncomfortable abode at night. There he would have been pent up in a narrow, close, ill-scented cabin; whereas on the shore he breathed a pure air, deliciously perfumed by the exhalations of fragrant flowers, and was continually fanned by a cooling gentle land-wind, exactly like young Zephyr, who has such great obligation to the poets. Whatever the exalted degree of pleasure might be, which fell to the share of the happy Mahine, there were those on board who thought their situation worthy of envy. Immediately on the first evening several women came on board, and the excesses of the night were incredible. I have already observed before, that the women who made a practice of this intercourse were all of the common or lowest class, and I shall only add at present, that they were the same who had been so liberal of their favours during our first stay at this island. It is therefore obvious, that the prostitutes are only a particular set among the rest, and that the custom is far from being so general as hath been hitherto supposed, on the faith of other accounts. It would be singularly absurd, if o-Maï were to report to his countrymen, that chastity is not known in England, because he did not find the ladies cruel in the Strand.

[Saturday 23.]The next day we had delightful weather, and a great number of natives came on board. I ventured to go on shore to the tents in the forenoon, but after walking about thirty yards, I was obliged to turn back and sit down, in order to prevent my fainting away. The fine apples, which the natives brought for sale, looked so extremely tempting, that I ventured to transgress the positive order of the physician, and having regaled myself with one of them, returned on board immediately. Not less than fifty large bonitos had been purchased by our people during my short stay on shore, for spikenails and knives; and besides these we had obtained such a quantity of fruit, that we were enabled to serve it out in plentiful portions. At my return I found a native in irons, who had already taken an opportunity to pilfer some nails in the ship. Several of the better sort of people interceded very strongly, and presented a number of bonitos, in order to procure his release. These were accepted, and he was set at liberty, with a warning not to practise the same tricks again.

The women who had passed the first night on board returned in the evening, and several others came with them; so that every sailor had his partner. The night was very fair and moon-light, and being dedicated to St. George, the tutelar saint of England, the pleasures of Venus were joined to the usual orgies of the festival.

Dr. Sparrman and my father had been on shore the whole day, and returned after sunset. They had walked across One-tree-hill into the province of Parre. There they met with Tootahah's mother, and Happaï, the father of the king, to whom they made some small presents. They were likewise accosted by a native there, who did them several good offices, and particularly swam a considerable way in a pond where they had shot some wild-ducks. They continued marching to the westward at least ten miles from Point Venus to their new friend's dwelling. He prepared them a very good meal of fruit, and baked them a rich and most delicious kind of pudding, which is made of the kernel of coco-nuts and eddy-roots, scraped very small, and mixed together. The trees about his hut furnished him with abundance of fresh coco-nuts, of which he offered a great number to his guests. After dinner he presented them with a perfumed dress of the best sort, and attended them back again with a quantity of fruit, which remained untouched. He slept that night on board, and went away the next morning highly delighted with several knives, nails, and beads. As they returned they came near the king's house, and there saw the two goats which captain Furneaux had presented to him. The she-goat had brought two kids soon after our departure, which were almost full-grown. The whole breed was in excellent order, extremely sleek and well fed, and their hair as soft as silk. If the natives continue to take the same care of them, they will shortly be able to turn them wild on the mountains, where they would propagate prodigiously, and afford them a new and most valuable article of food.

[Sunday 24.]The next morning I found myself greatly relieved by the apple which I had eaten; and captain Cook, who still had some remains of his bilious complaint, had felt the same effect from the use of this excellent fruit. We continued therefore to eat it; and recommended it to all the bilious patients. Our recovery in consequence was much quicker than we had any reason to expect, and in a few days no other symptom than a slight weakness remained.

A number of chiefs came on board this day with large hogs, and canoes loaded with fruit, all which were purchased for iron ware. Towards noon, the king, O-Too, with his sister Towraï, and his brother came on board, though it had rained just before. They brought a present of several hogs to captain Cook, and the king seemed to have entirely laid aside that distrust, which had so strongly characterised him before. They received some hatchets; but the principal thing for which they enquired were red parrot's feathers, which they called oora. The accounts of Mahine, and the little presents of this precious plumage which he had made to his friends, had given rise to this enquiry. We immediately searched all our collections from the Friendly Islands, and found a considerable quantity, which we did not think proper to show all at once. O-Too and his sister were gratified with a sight of a part of our riches, at which they seemed perfectly amazed and delighted. I have already mentioned, when I spoke of purchasing these feathers, that some were glued on a piece of cloth close to each other, and some were dispersed on stars of coco-nut core wrought in fret-work. Our royal guests received a small portion of the first sort, about the size of two fingers, beside a star or two, with which, for the present, they went away contented, as it seemed, beyond their warmest hopes. These red feathers, with which they ornament the dress of their warriors, and which perhaps are made use of on some other solemn occasions, are valued at an incredible rate in this island, and clearly prove the existence of a great degree of luxury among the natives.

[Monday 25.]On the next day we had a number of visits from different chiefs, amongst whom was our friend Potatowhis wife Whainee-ow, and his former wife Polatehera, whom the fame of our great riches of red feathers had reached. They brought with them numbers of hogs, many of which were exchanged with the utmost avidity for small pieces of cloth covered with red feathers. The difference between the present opulence of these islanders, and their situation eight months before, was very astonishing to us. It was with the utmost difficulty that we had been able to purchase a few hogs during our first stay, having been obliged to look upon it as a great favour, when the king or chief parted with one of these animals. At present our decks were so crouded with them, that we were obliged to make a hog-stye on shore. We concluded, therefore, that they were now entirely recovered from the blow which they had received in their late unfortunate war with the lesser peninsula, and of which they still felt the bad effects at our visit in August 1773. In the morning we had continual hard showers, and such violent thunder and lightning, that, for the sake of greater safety, a copper chain was fixed to the maintop-gallant-mast-head. Just as a sailor was clearing it of the shrouds, and had thrown the end over board, a terrible flash of lightning appeared exactly over the ship, and the flame was seen to run down along the whole length of the chain. A tremendous thunder-clap instantaneously followed, which shook the whole ship, to the no small surprize of both the Europeans and Taheitians on board. However we happily suffered not the least damage from this explosion. This circumstance confirms the great use of the electrical chain, which had been so clearly proved at Batavia, while captain Cook lay there in the Endeavour [176] See Hawksworth's Compilation, vol. III. p. 712. .

The rain did not abate till the evening, when the showers became intermittent, and entirely ceased the next morning. [Tuesday 26.]The first intelligence which we received from our tents was, that several waistcoats and blankets belonging to the captain had been stolen by the natives, from the man who was washing them. The captain embarked therefore about ten o'clock, in order to visit O-Too, by whose help he hoped to recover his bed-cloaths. I was now so well recovered, that I ventured to accompany him in the boat, with my father, Dr. Sparrman, and some others. When we approached O-Parre, we beheld one of the most magnificent sights which it is possible to be entertained with in the South Sea. This was a very numerous sleet of great war-canoes, lying arranged along the shore, completely fitted out, and manned with rowers and warriors, dressed in their robes, targets, and towering helmets. The shores were lined with crouds of people, and a kind of solemn silence prevailed among them. We landed, and were met by Tee, one of the king's uncles, who was going to lead captain Cook into the country, when the commander in chief of the fleet stepped on shore and met them. At sight of him the common people exclaimed, " Towhah is coming," and made room for him with a degree of veneration which surprised us. The chief advanced to captain Cook, and taking him by the hand, called him his friend, and desired him to step into his canoe. It appeared to us at that time that Tee was uneasy, and did not approve of captain Cook's going with Towhah; therefore, when we were just abreast of his canoe, which was one of the largest, the captain stopped short, and refused to go on board. Towhah left him very coolly, and, to all appearance hurt at the refusal, stepped into one of the canoes. We then walked down along the whole range of vessels, whose prows were turned to the shore. All our former ideas of the power and affluence of this island were so greatly surpassed by this magnificent scene, that we were perfectly left in admiration. We counted no less than one hundred and fifty-nine great double war-canoes, from fifty to ninety feet long betwixt stem and stern. When we consider the imperfect tools which these people are possessed of, we can never sufficiently admire the patience and labour with which they have cut down huge trees, dubbed the plank, made them perfectly smooth, and at last brought these unweildy vessels to the great degree of perfection in which we saw them. A hatchet, or, properly, an adze of stone, a chissel, and a piece of coral, are their tools, to which they only add the rough skin of a ray, when they smooth or polish their timber. All these canoes are double, that is, two joined together, side by side, by fifteen or eighteen strong transverse timbers, which sometimes project a great way beyond both the hulls, being from twelve to four and twenty feet in length, and about three feet and a half asunder. When they are so long, they make a platform, fifty, sixty, or seventy feet in length. On the outside of each canoe there are, in that case, two or three longitudinal spars, and between the two connected canoes one spar is fixed to the transverse beams. The heads and sterns were raised several feet out of the water, particularly the latter, which stood up like long beaks, sometimes near twenty feet high, and were cut into various shapes. A white piece of cloth was commonly fixed between the two beaks of each double canoe, in lieu of an ensign, and the wind swelled it out like a sail. Some had likewise a striped cloth, with various red chequers, which, as we afterwards learned, were the marks of the divisions under the different commanders. At the head there was a tall pillar of carved-work, on the top of which stood the figure of a man, or rather of an urchin, whose face was commonly shaded by a board like a bonnet, and sometimes painted red with ochre. These pillars were generally covered with bunches of black feathers, and long streamers of feathers hung from them. The gunwale of the canoes was commonly two or three feet above the water, but not always formed in the same manner; for some had flat bottoms, and sides nearly perpendicular upon them, whilst others were bow-sided, with a sharp keel, like the section drawn in captain Cook's first voyage [177] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 225. . A fighting stage was erected towards the head of the boat, and rested on pillars from four to six feet high, generally ornamented with carving. This stage extended beyond the whole breadth of the double canoe, and was from twenty to twenty-four feet long, and about eight or ten feet wide. The rowers sat in the canoe, or under the fighting stage on the platform, which consisted of the transverse beams and longitudinal spars; so that wherever these crossed, there was room for one man in the compartment. Those which had eighteen beams, and three longitudinal spars on each side, besides one longitudinal spar between the two canoes, had consequently no less than a hundred and forty-four rowers, besides eight men to steer them, four of whom were placed in each stern. This however was not the case with the greatest part of the canoes here assembled, which had no projecting platforms, and where the rowers or paddlers sat in the hulls of the canoe. The warriors were stationed on the sighting stage, to the number of fifteen or twenty. Their dress was the most singular, and at the same time the most thewy sight in the whole fleet. They had three large and ample pieces of cloth, with a hole in the middle, put on one above another. The undermost and largest was white, the next red, and the uppermost and shortest brown. Their targets or breast-plates were made of wicker-work, covered with feathers and shark's teeth, and hardly any of the warriors were without them. On the contrary, those who wore helmets, were few in number. These helmets were of an enormous size, being near five feet high. They consisted of a long cylindrical basket of wicker-work, of which the foremost half was hid by a semicylinder of a closer texture, which became broader towards the top, and there separated from the basket, so as to come forwards in a curve. This frontlet, of the length of four feet, was closely covered with the glossy bluish green feathers of a sort of pigeon, and with an elegant border of white plumes. A prodigious number of the long tail feathers of tropic birds diverged from its edges, in a radiant line, resembling that glory of light with which our painters commonly ornament the heads of angels and saints. A large turban of cloth was required for this huge unweildy machine to rest upon; but as it is intended merely to strike the beholder with admiration, and can be of no service, the warriors soon took it off, and placed it on the platform near them. The principal commanders were moreover distinguished by long round tails, made of green and yellow feathers, which hung down on the back, and put us in mind of the Turkish bashas. Towhah, their admiral, wore five of them, to the ends of which several strings of coco-nut core were added, with a few red feathers affixed to them. He had no helmet on, but wore a fine turban, which sat very gracefully upon his head. He was a man seemingly near sixty years of age, but extremely vigorous, tall, and of a very engaging noble countenance.

Having reached our boat again, we rowed along under the sterns of the canoes to the end of the file. In each canoe we took notice of vast bundles of spears, and long clubs or battle-axes, placed upright against the platform; and every warrior had either a club or spear in his hand. Vast heaps of large stones were likewise piled up in every canoe, being their only missile weapons. Besides the vessels of war, which we found to consist of one hundred and fifty-nine double canoes, we counted seventy smaller canoes without the ranks, most of which were double likewise, with a roof on the stern, intended for the reception of the chiefs at night, and as victuallers to the fleet. A few of them were seen, on which banana-leaves were very conspicuous; and these the natives told us were to receive the killed, and they called them e-vaa no t'Eatua, " the canoes of the Divinity." The immense number of people thus assembled together was, in fact, more surprising than the splendor of the whole shew. Upon a very moderate calculation, there could not be less than fifteen hundred warriors, and four thousand paddlers, besides those who were in the provision boats, and the prodigious crouds on the shore.

We were at a loss to know the meaning of this armament, nor could we obtain any information till we came back to our ship. The king having left O-Parre and gone into the district of Matavaï, we returned on board about noon. There we found many chiefs, and among the rest Potatow, who dined with us, and informed us, that the whole armament was intended against the island of Eimeo, of which the chief, a vassal of O-Too, had revolted. We learnt at the same time, to our greater surprize, that the fleet which we had seen was only the naval force of the single district of Atahooroo, and that all the other districts could furnish their quota of vessels in proportion to their size. This account opened our eyes, in regard to the population of the island, and convinced us in a few moments, that it was much more considerable than we had hitherto supposed. The result of a most moderate computation gave us one hundred and twenty thousand persons in the two peninsulas of Taheitee [178] This calculation was afterwards confirmed to be very low, when we saw the fleet of the smallest district, which amounted to forty-four war-canoes, besides twenty or five and twenty of a smaller size. .

The number of districts in both peninsulas amounts to forty-three; we assumed at a medium, that each could equip only twenty war-canoes, and we supposed each of these to be manned only with thirty-five men. The sum of men employed in the fleet, exclusive of the attending boats, would then be no less than thirty thousand; and these we assume as the fourth part of the whole nation. What makes this computation still more moderate is, that we suppose these thirty thousand to be the whole number of persons capable of bearing arms, or fit for service; and that the common proportion of these men, to the rest of the people, is much smaller than one fourth, in all the countries of Europe.

Captain Cook returned to O-Parre with us in the afternoon. The whole fleet had already left that district, and the canoes were dispersed; but we found O-Too, and were extremely well received. He conducted us to several of his houses, through a country which perfectly resembled a garden; shady fruit-trees, shrubberies with odoriferous flowers, and rivulets enlarged into limpid sheets of water, continually varied before the eye. The houses were all kept in the best order; some were surrounded with walls of reeds, but others were open like the usual dwellings of the people. We passed several hours in his company, with some of his relations, and principal attendants, who took every method to express their friendship towards us. The conversation, though not yet very coherent, was however extremely lively; and the women in particular laughed and chatted with the greatest good humour. We often found them diverting each other by playing upon words; and sometimes we were highly entertained with a real witty stroke, or a humorous sally. It was near sunset when we departed, after sharing some part of the happiness which seems to be so natural to this favoured island. The calm contented state of the natives; their simple way of life; the beauty of the landscape; the excellence of the climate; the abundance, salubrity, and delicious taste of its fruits, were altogether enchanting, and filled the heart with rapture. Surely the satisfaction which we naturally feel in the happiness of others, is one of the most delightful sensations with which the human soul is blessed.

[Wednesd. 27.]The next morning the captain and my father paid another visit to O-Too at Parre, and found there the admiral of the fleet, Towhah, to whom they were introduced by O-Too himself. They all came on board before noon, and visited every part of the ship above and below decks, particularly to gratify the curiosity of Towhah who had never seen a ship before in his life. He paid more attention to the multitude of new objects on board, to the strength and size of the timbers, masts, and ropes, than any Taheitian we had ever seen, and found our tackle so exceedingly superior to that which is usual in his country, that he expressed a wish to possess several articles, especially cables and anchors. He was now dressed like the rest of the people in this happy island, and naked to the waist, being in the king's presence. His appearance was so much altered from what it had been the day before, that I had some difficulty to recollect him. He appeared now very lusty, and had a most portly paunch, which it was impossible to discern under the long spacious robes of war. His hair was of a fine silvery grey, and his countenance was the most engaging and truly good-natured which I ever beheld in these islands. The king and he staid and dined with us this day, eating with a very hearty appetite of all that was set before them. O-Too had entirely lost his uneasy, distrustful air; he seemed to be at home, and took a great pleasure in instructing Towhah in our manners. He taught him to make use of the knife and fork, to eat salt to his meat, and to drink wine. He himself did not refuse to drink a glass of this generous liquor, and joked with Towhah upon its red colour, telling him it was blood. The honest admiral having tasted our grog, which is a mixture of brandy and water, desired to taste of the brandy by itself, which he called e vaï no Bretannee, British water, and drank off a small glass full, without making a wry face. Both he and his Taheitian majesty were extremely chearful and happy, and appeared to like our way of living, and our cookery of their own excellent provisions. They told us that their fleet was intended to reduce the rebellious people of Eimeo (or York Island) and their chief, Te-aree-Tabonooee, to obedience, adding, that they would make the attack in a district of that island, called Morea. Captain Cook proposed, in jest, to accompany them with his ship, and to fire upon the enemies of O-Too, which at first they smiled at, and approved of; but presently after they talked among themselves, and then changing their tone, said they could not make use of his assistance, being resolved to go out against Eimeo the fifth day after our departure. Whatever might be the real motive of this resolution, it certainly was the most politic in their situation. We were too powerful an ally, not to be formidable even to those for whom we should fight; and waving that consideration, it was making the people of Eimeo too important, to bring our invincible four-pounders against them; for to these only would the victory be ascribed, even by the vanquished; and as soon as we should have left the island, the conquerors would lose much of that importance which they had in the eyes of their enemies before the battle. Such a degree of contempt might prove fatal to them in the end.

[Thursday 28.]My father, with Dr. Sparrman, a sailor and a marine, went on shore the next day in the afternoon, with an intent to go up to the summit of the mountains. We had a great number of canoes about us all this time, and in them there were always some chiefs of different districts, who brought on board their hogs, and their most valuable possessions, in order to exchange them for red feathers, on which they placed an extravagant value. These feathers produced a great revolution in the connections which the women had formed with our sailors; and happy was he who had laid in a sufficient stock of this useful and precious merchandize at the Friendly Islands; the women crouded about him, and he had the choice of the fairest. That our red feathers had infused a general and irresistible longing into the minds of all the people, will appear from the following circumstance. I have observed, in the former part of this narrative, that the women of the families of chiefs never admitted the visits of Europeans; and also that whatever liberties some unmarried girls might with impunity allow themselves, the married state had always been held sacred and unspotted at Taheitee. But such was the force of the temptation, that a chief actually offered his wife to captain Cook, and the lady, by her husband's order, attempted to captivate him, by an artful display of all her charms, seemingly in such a careless manner, as many a woman would be at a loss to imitate. I was sorry, for the sake of human nature, that this proposal came from a man, whose general character was in other respects very fair. It was Potatow who could descend to this meanness, from the high spirit of grandeur which he had formerly shewn. We expressed great indignation at his conduct, and rebuked him for his frailty. It was very fortunate for us, that a considerable quantity of this red plumage had been disposed of by our sailors at the Marquesas, in exchange for artificial curiosities, before they knew the high value which it bore at Taheitee. Had all these riches been brought to this island, the price of provisions would in all likelihood have been raised to such an unreasonable height, that we might have fared even worse than during our first visit. A single little feather was a valuable present, much superior to a bead or a nail, and a very small bit of cloth, closely covered with them, produced such extatic joy in him who received it, as we might suppose in an European, who should unexpectedly find the diamond of the Great Mogol. Potatow brought on board his monstrous helmet of war of five feet high, and sold it for red feathers; some others followed his example, and targets without number were bought by almost every sailor. But much more surprising than this, was their offering for sale those curious and singular mourning dresses, which are mentioned in captain Cook's first voyage [179] See Hawksworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 143. 146. 236. also the plate, No. 5. , and which they would not part with on any account at that time. These dresses being made of the rarest productions of their island, and of the surrounding sea, and being wrought with the greatest care and ingenuity, must of course bear a very considerable value among them. A number of complete mourning dresses, not less than ten, were purchased by different persons on board, and brought to England. Captain Cook has given one to the British Museum, and my father has had the honour of presenting another to the University of Oxford, now deposited in the Ashmolean Museum. This remarkable dress consists of a thin flat board, of a semicircular form, about two feet long, and four or five inches broad. Upon these are fixed four or five chosen mother of pearl shells, by means of strings of coco-nut core passed through several holes which are pierced in the wood, and in the edges of the shells. A larger shell of the same kind, fringed with bluish-green pigeon's feathers, is fixed to each end of this board, of which the concave margin is placed upwards. Upon the middle of the concave margin there are two shells, which together form nearly a circle about six inches in diameter; and on the top of these a very large piece of mother of pearl, commonly with its purple coating on, is placed upright. It is of an oblong shape, enlarging rather towards the upper end, and its height is nine or ten inches. A great number of long white feathers, from the tropic bird's tail, form a radiant circle round it. From the convex margin of the board hangs down a tissue of small pieces of mother of pearl, in size and shape something like an apron. This consists of ten or fifteen rows of pieces about an inch and a half long, and one-tenth of an inch in breadth, each piece being perforated at both ends, in order to be fixed to the other rows. These rows are made perfectly streight and parallel to each other; therefore the uppermost are divided, and extremely short, on account of the semicircular shape of the board. The lower rows are likewise commonly narrower, and from the ends of each row a string hangs down, ornamented with opercula of shells, and sometimes with European beads. A tassel or round tail of green and yellow feathers hangs down from the upper ends of the board on the side of the apron, which is the most shewy part of the whole dress. A strong rope is fixed on each side of that pair of shells, which rests immediately upon the concave margin of the board, and this string is tied about the head of the person who wears the dress. The whole piece hangs down perpendicularly before him, the apron hides his breast and stomach, the board covers his neck and shoulders, and the first pair of shells comes before his face. In one of these shells there is a small hole cut out, through which the wearer must look in order to find his way. The uppermost shell, and the long feathers round it, extend at least two feet beyond the natural height of the man. The other parts of his dress are not less remarkable. He puts on a mat or a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle, like the usual dress of the country. Over this he places another of the same sort, but of which the fore part hangs down almost to the feet, and is beset with many rows of buttons made of pieces of coco-nut shell. A belt, consisting of a twisted rope of brown and white cloth, is tied over this dress round the waist; a large cloak of net-work, closely beset with great bluish feathers, covers the whole back; and a turban of brown and yellow cloth, bound with a great quantity of small twisted ropes of brown and white cloth, is placed on the head. An ample hood of alternate parallel stripes of brown, yellow, and white cloth descends from the turban to cover the neck and shoulders, in order that as little as possible of the human figure may appear. Commonly the nearest relation of the deceased wears this whimsical dress, and carries in one hand a pair of large pearl-shells, which are clapped or beaten together continually, and in the other a stick, armed with shark's teeth, with which he wounds any of the natives who chance to come near him [180] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 236. . What may have been the origin of this singular custom we cannot determine; but to me it seems to be calculated to inspire horror; and the fantastical dress in which it is performed, has so much of that strange and terrifying shape which our nurses attribute to ghosts and goblins, that I am almost tempted to believe some ridiculous superstition lurks under this funeral rite. The spirit of the deceased, exacting a tribute of grief and tears from its survivors, and therefore wounding them with the shark's teeth, would not be an idea too extravagant for men to have adopted. Whatever it might be, we never could obtain any intelligence from the natives on the subject; they gave us an account of the ceremony, and of the dress, telling us the names of every part; but it was impossible to make ourselves understood, as soon as we wanted to know why it was so? The most singular fact with which Mahine acquaint us, relative to the mourning rite, was, that at the death of a man, a woman performs the ceremony; but when a woman dies, a man must go the rounds with the scare-crow dress. In England the curiosity has been so great, that a Taheitian mourning-dress, which a sailor brought over, has been sold for five and twenty guineas. But in this respect the Taheitians are no way inferior to civilized nations. In consequence of Mahine's relation to his adventures, the chiefs continually importuned us to give them curiosities from Tonga-Tabboo, >Waïhoo, and Waitahoo [181] Amsterdam Island, Easter Island, and St. Christina. , instead of English goods, in exchange for their provisions and curiosities. The feathered head-dresses of the two last islands, and the baskets, clubs, and painted cloth of the former, pleased them excessively; nay, they were eager to possess the mats of Tonga-Tabboo, though in general they perfectly resembled their own manufacture. Our sailors therefore frequently took advantage of their disposition, and gave them the same mats under another name, which they had formerly purchased in their own island, or in the Society Islands. Thus there is a similarity in the general inclinations of human nature, and particularly in the desires of all nations who are not in a state of savage barbarism, but have the advantage of civilization. The resemblance will appear still more perfect, if we relate with what eagerness the Taheitians listened to the accounts of their youthful traveller. They always attended him in crouds, their oldest men esteemed him highly, and the principal people of the island, not excepting the royal family, courted his company. Besides the pleasure of hearing him, they had likewise that of obtaining a number of valuable presents from him, which cost them only a few kind expressions. His time was so agreeably taken up on shore, as he found new friends in every hut, that he seldom came on board, unless to fetch a new set of presents, or to shew the ship to his acquaintance, and to introduce them to captain Cook and his shipmates. His stories, however, were too wonderful sometimes to find ready belief among his audience, who now and then applied to us for a confirmation of his account. The rain converted into stone, the solid white rocks and mountains which we melted into fresh water, and the perpetual day of the antarctic circle, were articles which even ourselves could not persuade them to credit. The account of canibals in New Zeeland was more easily believed, though it filled them with horror. He brought on board a company of the natives during my father's absence on the hills, who were come on purpose to see the head of the New Zeeland boy, which Mr. Pickersgill had preserved in spirits. He readily gratified them with the sight, and their report brought great numbers to see it. I was present when it was shewn, and it struck me to hear them give it a peculiar name in their language. They unanimously called it te Tae-aï, which appears to be equivalent to " man eater." The result of my enquiries among many of the chiefs and most intelligent people, on this extraordinary circumstance, was the following. They said they had a traditional report among them, that in an indefinite but very remote period of time, there were man-eaters upon their island, who made great havock among the inhabitants, and were a very strong robust people; but that this race had long since been entirely extinct. The same account was confirmed to me in the strongest terms, on my return to England, by o-Maï, with whom I happened to converse upon the subject. The influence of this fact upon the ancient history of Taheitee is very striking; but shall we conclude, that a set of canibals have by some accident made a descent upon the island, and committed depredations upon the indigenous people? or is it not rather evident, that the original state of the whole nation is concealed in this tradition, and that all the Taheitians were anthropophagi, before they arrived at that state of civilization, which the excellence of the country and climate, and the profusion of vegetables and animal food, has introduced? It is a fact no less surprising than certain, that the more we examine the history of almost every nation, the more we find this custom prevalent in the first periods of their existence. Traces of anthropophagy are still extant at Taheitee. Captain Cook saw fifteen recent jaw-bones hanging in one house [182] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 161. . Might they not be preserved as trophies taken from their enemies?

[Friday 29.]The next morning one of the natives, who had attempted to steal a water-cask from our tents, was apprehended and confined. O-Too and Towhah coming on board somewhat early, being made acquainted with his offence, accompanied captain Cook on shore to see him punished. He was tied to a pole, and, with their consent, received two dozen of very severe lashes. A great croud of natives, who were spectators of this act, were so much terrified, that they began to run off; but Towhah called them back, and, in a speech which lasted about four or five minutes, pointed out the equity of our conduct, and the necessity of punishing thefts. He represented, that though our power was infinitely superior to theirs, yet we neither stole any thing, nor used any violence, but honestly paid a proper price for every thing we received, and frequently gave presents where we expected no return. That we had shown ourselves their best friends, and that to steal from friends was a shameful action, which highly deserved to be punished. The good sense and singleness of heart of this excellent old man, endeared him to us, and his harangue carried persuasion among his audience. In the afternoon Towhah came along side with his wife, and elderly woman, who seemed to have the same excellent character as her husband. They were in a large double canoe, with a roof built over the stern, and had eight rowers. The old couple invited Mr. Hodges and myself to come into the canoe, and we accompanied them to Parre. Towhah asked us a variety of questions during the time we were on the water, chiefly relating to the nature and constitution of the country from whence we came. As he had never seen any of our persons of high rank, he concluded that Mr. Banks could be no less than the king's brother, and that captain Cook was high admiral. The information which we gave him was received with the greatest marks of surprize and attention; but when we told him we had neither their coco-nut nor bread-fruit trees, he seemed to think but meanly of our country, though we enumerated all its other advantages. We were no sooner landed, than he ordered a repast of fish and fruit to be served up, and insisted on our partaking of it. We had just dined before we left the ship, but unwilling to give offence, we sat down and ate of the provisions, which were excellent. Indeed we could not but compare this happy country to Mahomed's Paradise, where the appetite is never cloyed by being gratified. The meal was already served, and we were going to help ourselves, when Towhah desired us to stop. In a few moments one of his attendants brought a large cook-knife, and some bamboo-sticks, instead of forks. Towhah carved the victuals, and gave each of us a bamboo, saying he would eat in the English manner. Instead of eating his bread-fruit by handfuls, he now cut it small, and took a bit of it after every morsel of fish, to shew how exactly he remembered our custom since the time of his dining with us. The good lady feasted apart some time afterwards, according to the invariable custom of the country. We walked about and chatted with them both till near sunset, when they embarked in their canoe, and returned to the district called Atahooroo, part of which belonged to Towhah. They took leave of us very cordially, and promised to return to the ship again in a few days. We hired a double canoe for a nail, and returned on board before it was dark. I found Dr. Sparrman and my father just returned from the mountains. Noona, the same lively and intelligent boy whom I have already mentioned in the former part of this narrative [183] See vol. I. p. 339. , had been their conductor. As they set out in the afternoon (on the 28th) they only reached a small hut on the second ridge, having crossed two deep vallies, and climbed two steep hills, rendered very slippery from a smart shower which had fallen. Here they found a man with his wife and three children. The man enlarged his cottage by means of branches of trees, and prepared them a supper; after which, having previously made a fire, they watched and slept by turns. The fire was seen on board our ship; and in return they heard the ringing of the ship's bell at midnight, though they were upwards of a league distant from it. The whole night was fair and cool; but their friendly host, whose name was Tahéa, had a violent cough. At day break they resumed their march towards the summits, and Tahea led the way, with a load of coco-nuts. The difficulties increased as they ascended; the paths running along the narrow ridge of steep hills, whose sides were almost perpendicular. The greatest danger arose from the slipperiness, occasioned by the rains of the preceding day. When they had ascended to a considerable height, they found thick shrubberies and woods on these steep sides; and attempting to collect plants there, they frequently met with precipices which are really tremendous. Still higher up the whole ridge was covered with a forest, where they gathered a number of plants, which they had never seen in the vallies below. After they had crossed the ridge, there fell a heavy shower of rain; and they coming to a very dangerous part, Tahea said they could go no farther. They resolved however to leave their heavy plant and provision bags behind, and went up with a single musket to the summit of the mountain, which they reached in about half an hour. Just about that time the clouds broke, and they had a prospect of Huahine, Tethuroa, and Tabbuamanoo. The view of the fertile plain under their feet, and of the valley of Matavaï, where the river makes innumerable meanders, was delightful in the highest degree. Thick clouds however prevented their discerning any thing on the south side of the island. In a few moments even the other part was covered again, and they were involved in a mist which wetted them to the skin. In their descent my father had the misfortune to fall in a very rocky place, and bruised his leg in such a manner, that he nearly fainted away. When he recovered, and attempted to proceed, he found that he had also received a dangerous rupture, for which he now continues to wear a bandage. Tahea assisted him in going down; and they all arrived on board about four o'clock in the afternoon. The upper hills they found to consist of a kind of clay extremely compact and stiff. The vegetation on the upper part of the mountains was luxuriant, and the woods consisted of many unknown sorts of plants. They enquired particularly for the perfume-wood, with which the natives perfume their oil. Tahea shewed them several plants which are sometimes used as substitutes; but the most precious sort itself he either could not, or would not, point out to them. O-Maï has told me that there are at Taheitee no less than fourteen different sorts of plants employed for perfuming; which shews how remarkably fond these people are of fine smells.

The number of common women on board our ship was considerably encreased since we had begun to deal in red feathers; and this night in particular many strolled about the decks who could not meet with partners. The abundance of pork likewise attracted them; for being almost entirely deprived of that rich food in their own houshold, they were eager to obtain it among our sailors, and sometimes consumed incredible quantities. The goodness of their appetite and digestion exposed them however to the inconvenience of restlessness, and often disturbed those who wished to sleep after the fatigues of the day. On certain urgent occasions they always required the attendance of their lovers; but as they were frequently refused, the decks were made to resemble the paths in the islands. Every evening these women divided into different troops, which danced on the quarter-deck, the forecastle, and the main-deck. Their mirth was often extravagant and noisy; and sometimes their ideas were so original as to give great amusement. We had a very weak scorbutic patient when we arrived at Taheitee: this man being somewhat recovered by means of fresh vegetable food, and animated by the example of the crew, wooed a Taheitian girl; about dusk led her to his birth, and lighted a candle. She looked her lover in the face, and finding he had lost one eye, she took him by the hand, and conducted him upon deck again to a girl that was one-eyed likewise, giving him to understand, that that person was a fit partner for him, but that for her part she did not choose to put up with a blind lover.

[1774. May.][Sunday 1.]Two days after, my father, being in some measure recovered from the fatigue of his late excursion, and from the bruise which he had received, went on shore, and found there o-Rettee, the chief of o-Hiddea, a district and harbour where M. de Bougainville lay at anchor. This chief asked captain Cook, whether, on his return to England, he should see M. de Bougainville whom he called Potavirree; and being answered in the negative, he put the same question to my father. He replied, it was not impossible, though he lived in a different kingdom. " Then," said o-Rettee, " tell him I am his friend, and long to see him again at o-Taheitee; and in order that you may remember it, I will give you a hog as soon as I return from my district, to which I am now going." With that he began to relate, that his friend M. de Bougainville had had two ships, and that on board of one there was a woman, but that she was ugly. He rested a long while on this circumstance, and seemed to think it extraordinary that a single woman should go on such an expedition. He likewise confirmed the account of a visit from a Spanish ship, which we had learned during our first stay at Taheitee; but he assured us that he and his countrymen had no great affection for them. O-Rettee was a fine grey-headed man, but very healthy and vigorous, as the old people of Taheitee in general seem to be; his countenance was the picture of a lively, chearful, and generous man. He told us he had been in many battles, and shewed us several wounds he had received, particularly a blow with a stone on his temple, which had left a deep scar. He had fought by Tootahah's side, on the day when that chief was killed.

[Monday 2.]The next morning Dr. Sparrman went with me up the valley of Matavaï, which the natives call Tooa-ooroo. This was the first excursion of any length which I undertook after my illness: I was therefore highly delighted with the beautiful appearance of the vegetable creation, which had been revived by the late rainy season; and surprised at the vast improvements which I saw throughout the whole district. Wherever I went, I saw new and extensive plantations, in excellent order; I found numbers of new houses built, and the natives at work upon new canoes in many places. It was plain, during our former stay, that the war between the two peninsulas had been distressful to this part of the larger one; but at present there was not the least trace of it remaining; the whole country was a scene of plenty, where numbers of hogs grazed around every house, which none of the natives attempted to conceal from us, as they had formerly done. I was much pleased to observe an alteration in the behaviour of the natives, who never once importuned us with begging for beads or nails, and who, instead of being backward to part with their store, appeared eager to out-do each other in acts of benevolence and hospitality. We did not pass a single hut, where we were not invited to come in, and partake of some refreshment; and we never accepted their invitation, without being made extremely happy by their unaffected kindness. About ten o'clock we reached the mansion of that hospitable man, who had entertained us so well during our former stay on the island, when we came from the hills excessively fatigued [184] See vol. I. p. 351. . He treated us with a few coco-nuts, and we promised to come and dine with him on our return down the valley. He gave his directions accordingly, and accompanied us all the way. We found no habitations beyond his house, as the mountains on both sides approached very close together, and were excessively steep. Having advanced about a mile, we came to a place where the hill on the east side formed a perpendicular wall, not less than forty yards high, beyond which it had some inclination, and was crowned with shrubberies to a great height. A fine cascade fell from this fringed part along the wall into the river, and made the scene more lively, which in itself was dark, wild, and romantic. When we came nearer, we observed that the perpendicular rock had many projecting longitudinal angles, and on wading through the water to it, we found it to consist of real columns of black compact basaltes, such as the natives manufacture into tools. They stood upright, parallel, and joined to each other. Their diameter seemed not to exceed fifteen or eighteen inches, and only one or two angles of the same pillar projected or were visible. As it is now generally supposed that basaltes is a production of volcanoes, we have here another strong proof that Taheitee has undergone great changes by such subterraneous fires, where nature produced the most wonderful chymical operations, upon a very extensive plan. Beyond these columns the vale, for the space of two or three miles, is more and more confined by mountains, so that we found it difficult to proceed, having been obliged to cross the river near fifty times. At last we came to the same place where Mr. Banks was obliged to stop in his excursion [185] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 173. . We found it equally impossible to proceed; and being much fatigued by continually clambering over rocks and rugged ground, set out on our return. By the way we collected some plants which we had not yet seen; and after a walk of two hours, reached the dwelling of our hospitable friend. We dined heartily on vegetables, and rewarded our host with red feathers to his heart's content; not forgetting to give him some iron-ware, which would prove useful to him when the feathers were lost or destroyed. His daughter, whom we had seen on our former visit, was now married to a man in a remote district, our presents having made her a rich heiress in this country. We came on board near sunset, having rambled very leisurely through the plain of Matavaï, captivated by the beauty and fertility of the prospect, and the additional lustre which a fine evening spread over it.

Captain Cook, with my father and several officers, had been at Parre to visit O-Too. They had been conducted to a place where a new war-canoe was building, which the king intended to call O-Taheitee. But captain Cook made him a present of an English jack [186] An ensign or flag, commonly hoisted on the bowsprit. , a grapnel, and a grapnel-rope, and desired that it might be called the Britannia. The king immediately consented, the jack was hoisted, and the people gave three cheers.

I recommended it to Mr. Hodges to visit the cascade which I had found in the valley; and accordingly the next day he went up with several gentlemen, and took a view of it, and of the basalt-pillars under it. We ate of a large albecore ( scomber thynnus, Linn.) that day, which gave us all a sudden heat in the face, and a violent head-ache. Some had likewise a purging; and a servant who had entirely dined upon it, was violently affected with vomiting and purging. It is probable that the fish was caught by means of some intoxicating plant, which had perhaps communicated a noxious quality to the meat.

We learnt about this time that Mahine had married the daughter of Toperree, a chief of Matavaï. A midshipman acquainted us that he had been present on the occasion, and that he had seen a number of ceremonies performed: but being intreated to give the particulars, he said, that though they were extremely curious, he could not remember one of them, and did not know how to relate them. By this means we lost the opportunity of making a considerable discovery, in regard to the customs of these islanders. It is pity that no intelligent observer was present, who might at least have related what he had seen. Mahine came on board with his bride, who was a very young girl, of a low stature, but not remarkable for beauty. She was very well skilled in the art of begging for presents, and went through the whole ship collecting a vast number of beads, nails, shirts, and red feathers, for which she was indebted to the friendship which every body felt for Mahine. This youth told us he had a great mind to settle at Taheitee, since his friends had offered him land, house, and property of all kinds there. He was received into an aree's family, esteemed by the king himself, and respected by all the people; nay, one of his friends had given him an attendant, or towtow, a boy who constantly waited on him wherever he went; who punctually executed all his orders, and seemed to be but little different from a slave.

Though Mahine had laid aside the idea of going to England, yet the lively boy, Noona, was very desirous of visiting that country, and spoke to my father and several other gentlemen, in the most urgent terms, to take him on board. As my father proposed to take him entirely at his own expence, captain Cook consented immediately to his reception. The boy was however told, that he must never expect to come back, since it was very doubtful whether another ship would be sent to Taheitee again. Noona was too much bent upon going with us, to hesitate a moment even at this difficulty. He resigned the hope of returning to his country, for the pleasure of visiting ours. In the evening however of the same day captain Cook declared he would not take him on board, and he was accordingly obliged to remain at Taheitee. As it was intended to teach him the rudiments of the arts of the carpenter and smith, he would have returned to his country at least as valuable a member of society as O-Mai, who, after a stay of two years in England, will be able to amuse his countrymen with the music of a hand-organ, and with the exhibition of a puppet-show.

We passed several days in visiting the plains of Matavaï, and the extensive valley of Ahonnoo, which is one of the most fertile, and, at the same time, most picturesque, in the whole island. [Friday 6.]On the 6th, in the afternoon, my father and Dr. Sparrman went up to the hills a second time, and I accompanied them, in hopes of meeting with some new plants there, since we had entirely exhausted the Flora of the plains. We passed the night again in Tahea's hut, with this difference, that we did not keep watch. Tahea was a merry humorous fellow; and it was his constant request to us to call him medua (father), and his wife o-pattèa [187] pattèa is properly a word of endearment, equivalent to our mamma. This last the Taheitians likewise make use of in the identical sense that we do. (mother).

We went up early the next day, but did not care to go quite to the summit. In the forest we collected a number of new plants, and shot a swallow. As we set out before sunrise, Tahea and his brother, who went up with us, caught some terns, which slept on the bushes along the path. He told us that many aquatic-birds come to rest on the mountains, after roaming all day over the sea in quest of food; and that the tropic-bird in particular has its nest there. The long tail feathers, which it annually sheds, are commonly found there, and much sought after by the natives. We saw the clouds coming over the summit, and descending towards us; therefore, in order to keep our plants dry, we hastened down, and at four o'clock reached the ship, where we found the whole royal family assembled, and among them Neehouraï, the eldest sister of O-Too, married to T'-aree-Derre, the son of Ammo [188] See vol. I. p. 358. Likewise Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 154. . T'-aree-Watow, the king's next brother, staid after they were all gone, and passed the night on board. To amuse him we let off some false fires at the mast-head, with which he was highly entertained. At supper, he enumerated to us all his relations, and gave us some account of the history of Taheitee, which o-Maï entirely confirmed to me, after my return to England. From his information we learned, that Ammo, Happaï, and Tootahah were three brothers, and that Ammo, being the eldest, was king of all Taheitee. He married o-Poorèa ( Oberea) a princess of the royal family, and had by her t'-Aree-Derre, who was immediately styled Aree-rahaï, or king of Taheitee. During the period of Ammo's reign, captain Wallis visited the island, and found o-Poorèa ( Oberea) invested with regal authority. About a year after his departure, a war broke out between o-Ammo and his vassal Aheatua, the king of the lesser peninsula. Aheatua landed at Paparra, where Ammo commonly resided, and after routing his forces with great slaughter, destroyed the plantations and houses by fire, and carried off all the hogs and poultry which he could find. Ammo and Poorea, with all their attendants, among whom o-Maï, according to his own account, was one, fled to the mountains in December 1768. At last the conqueror consented to a peace, on condition that Ammo should entirely resign the government, and that the succession should be taken from his son, and conferred upon o-Too, the eldest son of his brother Happaï. This was agreed to, and Tootahah, the youngest brother of Ammo, was appointed regent. This revolution bears a great resemblance to those which happen too frequently in the despotic kingdoms of Asia. It is but seldom that the conqueror dares to govern the country which he has subdued; in general he only plunders it, and appoints another sovereign, whom he chooses from among the royal family of the land. O-Poorea soon after quarrelled with her husband, and frequently beat him; upon which they separated; he took a very handsome young women to his bed, and she heaped her favours on Obadee and other lovers. Some infidelity on the part of Ammo seems to have been the foundation of this quarrel. These accidents, which are not so frequent at Taheitee as in England, are however not absolutely unusual in that island, especially when the lady has lost the charms which rendered her amiable, and yet demands the same attention as before. An instance similar to this happened on board. Polatehera formerly the wife of Potatow, but now separated from him, had taken a young husband or lover in his stead, as soon as her first lord had provided himself with another partner. The young man had an affection for a Taheitian girl, and our ship was the place of their rendez-vous. They did not however contrive their amours so well, as to remain undiscovered. The masculine Polatehera caught them one morning, gave her rival many hearty boxes on the ear, and humbled the guilty lover with a severe reprimand.

Captain Cook found the government of Taheitee in the hands of Tootahah, when he arrived in the Endeavour. After his departure Tootahah, being greatly enriched by the presents he had obtained, persuaded the chiefs of O-Taheitee-nue, or the Great Peninsula, to go against Aheatua, whom he could not forgive on account of the insult shewn to his family. They equipped a fleet, and went to Tiarraboo, where Aheatua was prepared to receive them. He was an old man [189] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 158. , desirous to end his days in peace; and therefore sent to Tootahah, to assure him that he was his friend, and always intended to continue so; and that he desired him to return to his country, without attacking those who had an affection for him. Tootahah was not dissuaded from his purpose, but gave orders to engage. The loss on both sides was nearly equal, but Tootahah retired, in order to attack his enemy by land. Happaï, with all his family, disapproved of this step, and remained at o-Parre; but Tootahah took o-Too with him, and marched to the isthmus between the two peninsulas. Here Aheatua met him, and a pitched battle ensued, which ended in the total dispersion of Tootahah's army. Tootahah himself was killed. Some told us he had been taken prisoner, and was put to death afterwards; but others, and among them o-Maï, asserted that he had been slain in the heat of the engagement. O-Too retired precipitately to the mountains with a few chosen friends, whilst Aheatua, with his victorious forces, immediately marched to Matavaï and o-Parre. At his arrival Happaï retired to the mountains, but Aheatua sent to assure him that he had no quarrel with him or his family, and that his wish had always been for peace. Those on the mountain enquired in their turn concerning the fate of Tootahah and o-Too; they heard that the former was killed, and the no body knew what was become of the other. Soon after o-Too arrived through many difficult passes, and over precipices, and coming down from the highest summits, joined his father, and all who were with him. A general peace was immediately concluded, after which O-Too assumed the reins of government himself, and the vast improvements in the country, which we noticed in eight months time, seem to prove that he is a very intelligent man, who promotes the general good of his subjects. Aheatua died soon after; and his son of the same name, whom we found at Aitepeha in August 1773, succeeded him.

Te-aree-Watow farther acquainted us, that his father had eight children. i. The eldest, Tedua (princess) Neehouraï, who seemed to be about thirty years old, and is married to the son of Ammo, called T'-aree-Derre. 2. The next Tedua (princess) Towraï, was unmarried, about seven and twenty, and appeared to have almost as great authority among the women, as the king her brother had in the whole island. 3. O-Too, aree-rahai, or king of Taheitee, is about twenty-six years of age; Aheatua is obliged to uncover his shoulders in his presence, as before his rightful paramount. 4. Tedua (princess) Tehamaï, who was the next to him, died young. 5. T'-aree-Watow himself was the next in order, and appeared to be about sixteen years of age; he told us he had another name, but which I have forgotten, from whence I conclude, that this which I have mentioned is only his title. 6. His next brother is Tubuaï-teraï, likewise called Mayorro, a boy of ten or eleven years old. 7. Erreretua, a little girl of seven years; and 8. Tepaow, a boy of four or five, are the two youngest. A healthy, but not corpulent habit of body, and a large bushy head of hair, were extremely characteristic of the whole family. Their features in general were pleasing, but their complexions rather brown, except that of Neehouraï and O-Too. The whole family appeared to be very much beloved among the nation, who in general are extremely fond of their chiefs. In return, their behaviour to every body was so affable and kind, that it commanded a general good-will. Tedua-Towraï commonly accompanied the king her brother when he came to visit us on board; and did not think she demeaned herself by going to trade for red feathers among the common sailors, in exchange for cloths and various curiosities. She happened once to be in the cabin with O-Too, captain Cook, and my father, looking over great heaps of iron ware, and other articles of trade; but the captain being called out, she whispered something to her brother, who immediately endeavoured to divert my father's attention by asking several questions. My father took the hint, and the princess believing she was not observed, concealed two large spike-nails in the folds of her garments. When captain Cook returned, my father acquainted him with this little stratagem; but they agreed that it was most politic not to take any notice of it. Before this time, she had frequently expressed a particular desire to carry away with her one or other article of our riches, and had never been refused; on the contrary, we had commonly given more than she demanded. It was therefore extraordinary, that she should be tempted to steal that which might so easily have been obtained by fair means; it should seem as if she had a strange predilection for things acquired by stealth, and for which she was only indebted to her own ingenuity. Some of the women on board likewise accused her of admitting towtows, or men of the lowest rank, to her bed at night privately, and unknown to her brother. In a country where the impulses of nature are followed without restraint, it would be extraordinary if an exception should be made, and still more so, if it should confine those who are accustomed to have their will in most other respects. The passions of mankind are similar every where; the same instincts are active in the slave and the prince; consequently the history of their effects must ever be the same in every country.

[Sunday 8.] O-Too came to the tents on Point Venus very early in the morning, and acquainted the serjeant of marines that one of the natives had stolen a musket from a centry, and was run off with it: he likewise dispatched Tee, his messenger, on board to fetch his brother, who obeyed the summons, after breakfasting with us. As soon as they returned on shore, O-Too, with all his family, fled to the westward, being apprehensive that the musket would be redemanded at their hands. Captain Cook seized several double travelling-canoes belonging to different chiefs, and particularly that of Maratata, who was accused of having ordered one of his attendants to commit the theft. This chief himself was in his canoe, and hastened to convey it out of our reach; but the captain firing several muskets at it, Maratata and all his rowers leaped into the sea, and swam ashore. About noon Tee came on board, and acquainted us that the thief was gone to the Lesser Peninsula, or Tiarraboo; upon which all the canoes, except Maratata's were again restored to their owners. We kept quiet on board till the afternoon, having but few of the natives with us, among whom there was not one woman. Towards evening captain Cook went ashore, and soon after some natives arrived in a most profuse perspiration, who brought no only the musket, but also a bundle of cloaths and a two-hour-glass, which had been stolen at the same time. They related, that having overtaken the thief, they had beaten him most severely, and obliged him to shew where he had concealed the stolen goods in the sand. Notwithstanding their appearance, we did not give much credit to their story, especially as one of them had been so lately seen about the tents, that it was impossible he could have run to any great distance. They received some presents, however, to shew that we meant to reward their zeal in our service. The next day there was no trade carried on; but Tee came on board again, desiring the captain to visit the king at Parré, who was matòw, an ambiguous court-phrase, expressing not only that he was afraid, but that he wished to be put into good humour with presents. The captain and my father went to him, whilst Dr. Sparrman and myself were put ashore at the tents. We found the people a good deal terrified at the extraordinary steps which had been taken, on our part, to do justice to ourselves. They had received strict orders from the king not to sell any provisions, however they treated us with coco-nuts and other refreshments with their usual hospitality. At noon we came on board, and the captain returned soon after, having ratified the friendship with O-Too. No women came on board this night, the king having prohibited it, lest they should give occasion to complaints, by stealing from our people. [Tuesday 10.]However the next day they were permitted to visit our sailors again; and with them came a number of canoes loaden with vegetable provisions, and some with fresh fish. Captain Cook sent Mahine with several presents to Towhah, into Atahooroo, in return for several hogs which he had received. During his absence, O-Poorea ( Oberea) once the queen of Taheitee, came on board, and presented two hogs to captain Cook. The fame of our red feathers had reached to the plains of Paparra, for she told us she was come to have some of them. She appeared to be between forty and fifty; her person was tall, large, and fat, and her features, which seemed once to have been more agreeable, were now rather masculine. However something of her former greatness remained; she had " an eye to threaten or command [190] Shakespeare. ," and a free and noble deportment. She did not stay long on board, probably because she felt herself of less consequence in our eyes than formerly. After enquiring for her friends of the Endeavour, she went ashore in her canoe. O-Ammo likewise came to the ship about this time, but was still less noticed than his late consort; and being little known on board, was not permitted to come even into the captain's cabin. It was with difficulty that he could dispose of his hogs, as we had now so many on board, that we did not care to croud the decks with more. These two royal personages are living examples of the instability of human grandeur.

[Thursday 12.]We contrived several diversions for O-Too on the 12th. We fired our guns with round and grape-shot across the reef into the sea, at which he and a croud of several thousand spectators were highly delighted. In the evening we let off a few sky-rockets, and some air-balloons, which heightened their raptures, and filled them with admiration. They looked upon us as extraordinary people, who had fires and stars at command, and gave our fire-works the name of Heiva-Bretannee, the British Festival.

All the next day a number of people surrounded the ship, who brought no provisions, but great quantities of cloth and curiosities, having observed that we prepared to leave them. In the afternoon we went to O-Parre with captain Cook, and found our worthy friend Towhah there with Mahine. Towhah had been dangerously ill of a disorder similar to the gout, and his legs were still swelled, and excessively painful. He was however come to take leave of us, and promised to visit us the next morning. O-Too likewise met us there, and spoke of sending a supply of bread-fruit, which we valued more than hogs at present. [Saturday 14.]Early the next morning we received the visit of a great part of the nobility of the whole island. Among them was Happaï and all his children, except O-Too. Towhah and his wife likewise came about eight o'clock, and brought great loads of presents of all sorts to us. The good old admiral was so ill that he could not stand on his legs; he was very desirous however to come upon deck; we therefore flung a chair in ropes, and hoisted him up in it, to his great delight, and to the astonishment of all his countrymen. We discoursed on the subject of the intended expedition against Eimeo, which he still assured us would take place soon after our departure. Notwithstanding his illness, he was determined to command the fleet in person, saying it was of little consequence if they killed an old man, who could no longer be useful. He was very chearful under his infirmities, and his way of thinking was nobly disinterested, and seemed to be animated by true heroism. He took leave of us with a degree of cordiality and emotion, which touched the heart, and might have reconciled a misanthrope to the world. Mahine, who came on board with him, resolved to go with us to Raietea to visit his relations and friends in the Society Islands, and then to return to Taheitee, as soon as he should meet with an opportunity. He considered, that having possessions in several of those islands, it was his interest to return thither, and to dispose of them to the greatest advantage. He introduced to captain Cook several natives of Borabora, one of which was his brother; they desired a passage to the Society Islands, which captain Cook readily granted. With a degree of exultation, he imparted to us in confidence, that he had shared O-Poorea's bed the last night; this he esteemed as a great honour and mark of eminence, and shewed us several pieces of the best cloth, which she had presented to him. O-Poorea was therefore not too old to relish sensual gratifications even in a warm climate, where the epocha of maturity seems to happen at a much earlier age than in colder countries, and where of course every stage of human life might be supposed to have only a proportionate duration. O-Too not being arrived on board, we went to visit him once more, and to view some war-canoes which lay at Parre. We found only forty-four, all which belonged to Tittaha, the smallest district in the north-west peninsula of Taheitee. O-Too ordered some military evolutions to be made before us, which were performed with great dexterity. The chiefs were all dressed in their habits, and had targets, but no helmets. There were also some little boys, who wore the dresses, and parried the spears with as great agility as grown people. Their method was to rest the point of a spear or long battle-axe on the ground before them, so that it made an angle of about 25 or 30 deg. with the ground. With the other end, which they held in their hand, they contrived to keep the spear always in the middle, right before the body. By this means the spear of the adversary always slid off on one side or the other, without ever coming near the body. Some of the canoes likewise performed part of their manӕuvre. They came singly one after another through the narrow entrance of the reef; but as soon as they were within, they formed in a line, and joined close together. On the middlemost canoe there was a man placed behind the fighting stage, who gave signals with a green branch to the rowers, either to paddle to the right or left. The movement in consequence of his command was in perfect tune, and so very regular, that it seemed as if all the paddles were parts of the same machine which moved some hundred arms at once. This man might be compared to the Keleuzhz in the ships of the ancient Greeks: indeed, the view of the Taheitian fleet frequently brought to our mind an idea of the naval force which that nation employed in the first ages of its existence, and induced us to compare them together. The Greeks were doubtless better armed, having the use of metals; but it seemed plain, from the writings of Homer, in spight of poetical embellishment, that their mode of fighting was irregular, and their arms simple, like those of Taheitee. The united efforts of Greece against Troy, in remote antiquity, could not be much more considerable than the armament of O-Too against the isle of Eimeo; and the boasted mille carinœ, were probably not more formidable than a fleet of large canoes, which require from fifty to an hundred and twenty men to paddle them. The navigation of the Greeks in those days was not more extensive than that which is practised by the Taheitians at present, being confined to short passages from island to island; and as the stars at night directed the mariners through the Archipelago at that time, so they still continue to guide others in the Pacific ocean. The Greeks were brave; but the numerous wounds of the Taheitian chiefs, are all proofs of their spirit and prowess. It seems to be certain, that in their battles they rouze themselves into a kind of phrenzy, and that their bravery is a violent fit of passion. From Homer's battles it is evident, that the heroism which produced the wonders he records, was exactly of the same nature. Let us for a moment be allowed to carry this comparison still farther. The heroes of Homer are represented to us as men of supernatural size and force. The Taheitian chiefs, compared to the common people, are so much superior in stature and elegance of form, that they look like a different race [191] M. de Bougainville has been led by this difference of appearance to assert, that they were really two different races. See his Voyage round the World, p. 249. . It requires a more than ordinary quantity of food to satisfy stomachs of unusual dimensions. Accordingly we find, that the mighty men at the siege of Troy, and the chiefs of Taheitee, are both famous for eating; and it appears that pork was a diet no less admired by the Greeks, than it is by the Taheitians at this day. Simplicity of manners is observable in both nations; and their domestic character alike is hospitable, affectionate, and humane. There is even a similarity in their political constitution. The chiefs of districts at Taheitee are powerful princes, who have not more respect for O-Too, than the Greek heroes had for the " King of men;" and the common people are so little noticed in the Iliad, that they appear to have had no greater consequence, than the towtows in the South Sea. In short, I believe the similitude might be traced in many other instances; but it was my intention only to hint at it, and not to abuse the patience of my readers. What I have here said is sufficient to prove, that men in a similar state of civilization resemble each other more than we are aware of, even in the most opposite extremes of the world. I should be sorry to have made these slight remarks, if they should unfortunately lead some learned schemer on a wrong scent. The itch of tracing the pedigree of nations has lately made such havock in history, by endeavouring to combine the Egyptians and Chinese, that the learned must sincerely wish, it may never become a contagious distemper.

O-Too came on board, and dined with us for the last time. He proposed to my father and Mr. Hodges to stay at Taheitee, and promised very seriously to make them arees or chiefs of the rich districts of Parre and Matavaï. Whether he had any interested motives for this proposal, or whether it came merely from the fullness of his heart, I cannot determine. As soon as the dinner was over we weighed our anchor, and set sail. O-Too requested the captain to fire some cannon, and was the last Taheitian who stepped into his canoe, after cordially embracing us all. The noise of the cannon, by stunning our ears in some measure, diverted our thoughts from taking that melancholy turn which is natural on these occasions. It prevented our giving a loose to the soft feelings with which the worth of this simple and beneficent nation had inspired us; but it was a favourable opportunity for one of our seamen to make his escape to the island. He was observed swimming towards the shore, and some canoes were seen paddling to his assistance, when we dispatched a boat which brought him back, much against his inclinations. His frolic cost him a fortnight's confinement in irons. There is great reason to suppose that a plan was concerted between him and the natives, who perhaps had promised themselves as great advantages from retaining an European, as that European might expect by dwelling with them. If we fairly consider the different situations of a common sailor on board the Resolution, and of a Taheitian on his island, we cannot blame the former, if he attempted to rid himself of the numberless discomforts of a voyage round the world, and preferred an easy life, free from cares, in the happiest climate of the world, to the frequent vicissitudes which are entailed upon the mariner. The most favourable prospects of future success in England, which he might form in idea, could never be so flattering to his senses, as the lowly hope of living like the meanest Taheitian. It was highly probable, that immediately on his return to England, instead of indulging in repose those limbs which had been tossed from pole to pole, he would be placed in another ship, where the same fatigues, nocturnal watches, and unwholesome food, would still fall to his share; or though he were allowed to solace himself for a few days, after a long series of hardships, he must expect to be seized in the midst of his enjoyments, and to be dragged an unwilling champion to the defence of his country: to be cut off in the flower of his age, or to remain miserably crippled, with only half his limbs, might be the alternatives to which he would be reduced. But supposing he could escape these misfortunes, still he must earn his subsistence in England, at the expence of labour, and " in the sweat of his brow," when this eldest curse on mankind is scarcely felt at Taheitee. The drudgery of our country people is continual, and their exertion of strength very violent. Before they can make the least use of corn, they must undergo the various labours of ploughing, reaping, thrashing, and grinding. They are obliged to cultivate an hundred times more than they can consume, in order to support a breed of animals, whose assistance in husbandry is absolutely necessary; and to pay for the liberty of tilling the ground, for the articles of dress indispensable in a raw climate; for their tools, and a variety of things, which they might easily make with their own hands, if agriculture alone did not engross their time and attention. The tradesman, the manufacturer, the artist, all are obliged to work with equal assiduity, in order to furnish the goods, in return for which the farmer gives them bread. How different from this, how indolent is the life of the Taheitian! Two or three bread-fruit trees, which grow almost without any culture, and which flourish as long as he himself can expect to live, supply him with abundant food during three-fourths of the year. The superfluity is fermented and preserved, as a wholesome, nourishing and palatable bread, for the remaining months. Those plants which require the greatest attendance at Taheitee, the cloth-trees and eddo-roots, are cultivated with much less trouble than our cabbages and kitchen-herbs, though their uses are infinitely more extensive. The whole process necessary to plant a bread-tree, is to break off a sound branch, and stick it in the ground. The banana, whose rich clusters seem too great a weight for the herbaceous stem, annually shoots afresh from the root. The royal palm, at once the ornament of the plain, and a useful gift of nature to its inhabitants; the golden apple, whose salutary effects we have so strongly experienced, and a number of other plants, all thrive with such luxuriance, and require so little trouble, that I may venture to call them spontaneous. The manufacture of dress is an agreeable pastime for the women, and the building of houses and canoes, with the making of tools and arms, are occupations which become amusing by being voluntary, and intended for the more immediate use of the artificers. Most of their days are therefore spent in a round of various enjoyments, in a country where nature has lavished many a pleasing landscape; where the temperature of the air is warm, but continually refreshed by a wholesome breeze from the sea; and where the sky is almost constantly serene. This climate, and its salubrious productions, contribute to the strength and the elegance of their form. They are all well-proportioned, and some would have been selected by Phidias or Praxiteles, as models of masculine beauty. Their features are sweet, and unruffled by violent passions. Their large eyes, their arched eyebrows, and high forehead, give a noble air to their heads, which are adorned by strong beards, and a comely growth of hair [192] It has been said by other navigators, that they eradicate the hair of the upper-lip, the breast and arm-pits; but this is by no means a general custom. The chiefs in particular, and the king himself, preserve their whiskers. . These, as well as their beautiful teeth, are the proofs of vigour, and of a sound habit of body. The sex, the partners of their felicity, are likewise well-formed; their irregular charms win the heart of their countrymen, and their unaffected smiles, and a wish to please, insure them mutual esteem and love. A kind of happy uniformity runs through the whole life of the Taheitians. They rise with the sun, and hasten to rivers and fountains, to perform an ablution equally reviving and cleanly. They pass the morning at work, or walk about till the heat of the day increases, when they retreat to their dwellings, or repose under some tufted tree. There they amuse themselves with smoothing their hair, and anoint it with fragrant oils; or they blow the flute, and sing to it, or listen to the songs of the birds. At the hour of noon, or a little later, they go to dinner. After their meals they resume their domestic amusements, during which the flame of mutual affection spreads in every heart, and unites the rising generation with new and tender ties. The lively jest, without any ill-nature, the artless tale, the jocund dance and frugal supper, bring on the evening; and another visit to the river concludes the actions of the day. Thus contented with their simple way of life, and placed in a delightful country, they are free from cares, and happy in their ignorance.

Ihr leben fliesset verborgen,

Wie klare bäche durch blumen dahin.

Kleist.

It must be allowed, that these advantages are decisive with those, who have nothing so much at heart as the gratification of their senses. No wonder then that a sailor, perhaps less guided by reason than the rest of his comrades, should hurry on headlong after the pleasures of the present moment. It is certain, at the same time, that being born and bred up in an active sphere of life, acquainted with numberless subjects, utterly unknown to the Taheitians, and accustomed to extend his thoughts to past and future occurrences, he would shortly have been tired of an uninterrupted tranquility and continual sameness, suited only to a people whose notions are simple and confined.

The ideas of happiness are infinitely various in different nations, according to their manners, principles, and degrees of civilization. As the productions and apparent good qualities of our globe, are either profusely or sparingly distributed, on its different parts, the diversity of human opinions is a convincing proof of that paternal love, and unerring wisdom, which, in the plan of this world, has provided for the good of mankind, alike in the torrid and the frigid zone.

Fix'd to no spot is happiness sincere,

'Tis no where to be found, or ev'ry where.

Pope.

CHAP. VII.

The second stay at the Society Islands.

[1774. May.][Saturday 14.]A Brisk gale carried us swiftly from Taheitee. We were still busied in contemplating its beautiful scenery, when an unexpected object on our own decks attracted our attention. This was no other than one of the finest women whom we had seen in the country, and who had resolved to go with us to Raietea ( Ulietea), her native island. Her parents, from whom she had eloped to Taheitee with a favoured lover some years ago, were still alive, and the force of affection urged her irresistibly to visit them. She was by no means apprehensive of their anger, but on the contrary expected a kind reception. The little youthful errors of the heart are easily forgiven, where interest and ambition have so little sway. She had concealed herself on board during O-Too's last visit, as he had expressly ordered that no woman should go with us; but being safe at present, she ventured to make her appearance. Mahine's brother, his servant, and two other natives of Borabora, likewise took a passage with us, confidently relying on a people who had so faithfully brought one of their countrymen back again, and who had endeavoured to shew him every kindness in their power. Their company gave life to our conversation, and shortened the day of our passage to Huahine. The girl was dressed in a suit of cloaths belonging to one of the officers, and was so much pleased with her new garments, that she went ashore in them as soon as she arrived at that island. She dined with the officers, without the least scruple, and laughed at the prejudices of her country-men with all the good sense of a citizen of the world. With a proper education she might have shone as a woman of genius even in Europe; since, without the advantage of a cultivated understanding, her great vivacity joined to very polite manners, already were sufficient to make her company supportable.

[Sunday 15.]We sailed on all night; and the next morning, at day break, the island of Huahine was in sight. In the afternoon we came to an anchor in the northern branch of Wharre harbour, where we lay not more than fifty yards from the shore. We were visited by some of the natives, who brought hogs to sell, but demanded hatchets in return, which were now so scarce on board, that we reserved them for great occasions. Oree, the regent of the island, came to us before sunset in a small canoe, and brought a hog and a target of war to captain Cook,2 for which he received a suitable present. He gave us some pepper-roots this time, but without any of the ceremonies observed at our former visit to the island [193] See vol. I. p. 376. . In the evening we had a perfect calm, and were highly delighted with viewing and hearing the natives, who sat in their houses along the shore, around their candles, which are oily nuts stuck on a slender stick. One of the first who came on board the next day was Porea, the Taheitian youth, who had left that island with us eight months ago, but had withdrawn himself from us at Raietea. He told us, it was by no means with his consent that he staid behind. Having an amour with a pretty girl, she had appointed a rendezvous, to which he had hastened, after delivering the powder-horn to captain Cook. On his arriving at the place appointed with his fair mistress, he had been attacked by her father, with some attendants, who had stripped him of his European cloaths, beaten him soundly, and confined him till after our departure. He had then taken the first opportunity of crossing over to Huahine, where he had been supported by the hospitality of several friends, so that he was now in a very good plight. From his story we may gather, that the people of these islands do not always permit their daughters to follow their own inclinations; though according to our ideas, Porea's attempt did not authorise the father to rob him of his cloaths.

We went on shore early, and rambled to the lagoons, which the sea forms to the northward of the harbour. We found them surrounded by swamps, filled with a variety of East Indian plants; and their shores consisted of a slimy mud, which, from its appearance, and fetid smell, we thought to be of the same nature and qualities with hepar sulphuris. There were great flocks of ducks upon the lagoon; but we found it difficult to approach them, as we sunk into the mud, whenever we ventured to walk through it. The prospect which this piece of water forms, is however extremely pleasing and picturesque. The stinking effluvia of the lagoons are probably esteemed unwholesome, as we observed but very few houses on their banks. On the sea side they are inclosed by a narrow coral ledge covered with sand, a little elevated, along which we found great number of coco-nut palms. The marshes slope down from this immediately to the stagnant water. We were entertained by one of the natives with coco-nuts, which were at present very scarce upon the island. In returning home our servant,3 who carried a bag with plants, and another with iron tools, was knocked down a few yards behind us, and would have been robbed, if we had not turned back by chance; but at sight of us the thieves ran off. This was the second time that our people were thus boldly attacked by the natives of Huahine, who seem, upon the whole, to be more licentious under the infirm government of old Oree, than those of Taheitee, and of the other Society Islands.

This old chief appeared to be much more indolent at this time than at our first visit, and his intellects seemed to be considerably impaired. His eyes were red and inflamed, and his whole body lean and scaly. We were not long at a loss to account for this change, having observed that he was now much addicted to the intoxicating pepper-draught, of which he drank great quantities, prepared excessively strong. Mahine had the honour of drinking with him for several nights together, and received such a share of his nauseous beverage, that he commonly awoke the next morning with a violent head-ache.

We made another excursion to the same place the next day, and brought back a number of corals, shells, and echini, which the natives had gathered for us on the sea-shore. We received presents of hogs and targets from different chiefs, who came on purpose to visit their old acquaintances, and would not sell or part with their goods, till they saw their friend for whom they were destined. The next day we took a walk up one of the hills, which is every where planted with bread-trees, pepper and mulberry-trees, yams and eddoes. The mulberry or cloth-trees were cultivated with particular attention; the ground between them was carefully weeded, and manured with broken decayed shells and coral, and the whole plantation surrounded with a deep furrow or channel, in order to drain it. In many places they had burnt away ferns and various shrubs, in order to prepare the ground for future plantations. At a considerable height upon the hill we found a house, the inhabitants of which, an old woman and her daughter, hospitably entertained us. We gave them several beads and nails, and some red feathers, which last were rather accepted as a curiosity, than as things of great value. This opinion was general among the people of Huahine; they wanted hatchets in exchange for their hogs, and smaller iron tools for other provisions, and as we were well stocked with animals, we did not like their price, though it was the same which we had formerly given. Since red feathers have really no intrinsic value, and are only used for ornament, we have another convincing proof of the superior affluence and luxury of the Taheitians, in the great eagerness which they expressed to purchase them. The difference is obviously owing to the excellence of their country, compared to Huahine, where the ambient plain is so narrow and inconsiderable, that the natives are obliged to cultivate the hills.

Several bold thefts were committed, during the following days, by the natives, for which it was not in our power to obtain redress. Some other attempts however were punished. A party of petty officers were gone to take the diversion of shooting on a hill, and had a marine with them, who carried some hatchets and nails in a bag. A native who attended them, seeing that their fowling-pieces missed fire several times, took his opportunity, when the marine had laid down his bundle, to snatch it up, and ran off with it. The day after the gentlemen went to see a heiva or public dance, and luckily found the thief among the spectators. He confessed his misdemeanour, but promised, if they would pardon him, to bring them some targets in return, which were always reckoned equivalent to our hatchets. They were contented with his submission, and the man punctually kept his word the next day; which shews that he was by no means to be compared to our hardened sinners, but was fully sensible of the generous treatment which he had met with. Another attempted to steal a powder-horn, but he was detected, and requited by blows. Even the poor girl, who came on board at Taheitee, tempted them by wearing an European dress. A number of natives set upon her in a house, when she was least aware of it, and began to strip off her cloaths; when some of our people fortunately came by, who put the thieves to flight. This accident frightened her so much, that she never ventured out of the ship alone for the future.

[Thursday 19.]On the 19th we took a walk towards the long inlet, where Dr. Sparrman had been robbed about eight months before. The weather was rainy at first, and the showers became so severe, that we retreated into a small hut, to prevent our being wetted to the skin. We found here a friendly family, who immediately offered us some fresh bread-fruit and some fishes to eat, that being always the first mark of hospitality among the inhabitants of the South Sea. An elderly woman, of some note, had likewise taken shelter under the same roof, with one of her attendants, who led a hog to her home. As we set out together, when the shower was over, the good woman presented the hog to us, and invited us to her house, which lay at a considerable distance. We crossed the hill, and descended to the sea shore on the opposite side of the island. Our way was extremely slippery; but we collected a number of plants which had novelty to recommend them. The weather changed before we reached the plain below, and became delightfully fair. We found a bay, with an extensive shoal of coral, and a small islet, where great flocks of wild-ducks, curlews, and snipes resided. We received several refreshments from the natives, which our friendly old lady endeavoured to procure. After we had amused ourselves for some time with shooting, we crossed the hills in another direction, and passing through a fine valley, well inhabited, and rich in all sorts of plantations, we came to the woman's dwelling on the sea shore. Here we found an old man, her husband, and a large family, some of whom were grown up. She treated us with stewed fowls, bread-fruit, and coco-nuts, and then sent us in her own canoe to the ship, which lay about five miles off by sea, but at least twice as far by land. There was a kind of assiduity to serve us in this good woman's behaviour, which I had not often experienced in those numerous instances of hospitality, daily obvious to the stranger in the South Sea islands. It is a most convincing proof of the excellence of the human heart, in its simple state, before ambition, luxury, and various other passions have corrupted it.

[Friday 20.]We staid on board the next day till the afternoon, and then went ashore with captain Cook to a long house, which was a common receptacle, or carvansera,6 for many families, who travelled thither in order to be near us. We found several inferior chiefs there; but Oree was gone to a different part of the island. After conversing with them for some time, several natives arrived, who brought an account that our first and second lieutenant, with one of the mates, had been stripped by several robbers. A great number of the inhabitants immediately fled, and all who remained expressed strong marks of fear. We could not collect with certainty, from the information of different people, whether our officers had been beaten or killed; the Taheitian word, matte, expressing both these ideas. We were however soon relieved from this state of suspense, by the appearance of the gentlemen, perfectly safe, with their arms and cloaths. They informed us, that having been shooting near the lagoons, they had been attacked unawares by some of the natives, who, upon their refusing to part with their fowling-pieces, had beaten them, and wrested those arms out of their hands; that a chief happening to pass by during the struggle, had come to their assistance, and had effected the recovery of every article which had been taken from them. We returned on board together, and observed that the natives forsook the adjacent country. The next morning early, Mahine, who had slept on shore, brought a message from Oree to captain Cook, importing that there were thirteen offenders, whom he could not punish without the captain's assistance: he requested him therefore to send twenty-two armed men, which he expressed by the same number of small sticks, and promised to join them with some of his own warriors, who should go out to chastise the rebels. Captain Cook went on shore with Mahine, in order to be more fully assured of Oree's intention; but not understanding enough of the language, he received very little intelligence. As soon as he returned on board, he consulted with the officers; and, on this occasion, the second lieutenant ingenuously confessed that they themselves had been the aggressors, and had drawn upon them the severe revenge which the natives had taken. One of them having shot a couple of ducks in the lagoon, desired a native, who attended him, to fetch them out of the water. The man, who had repeatedly done him this good office before, refused to serve as a spaniel any longer. Our officer beat him, however, till he went in, and worked himself through the mud with great agility, in a motion between swimming and walking. When he had reached the ducks, which lay at a considerable distance from the shore, he swam off with them to the opposite side of the lagoon, perhaps conscious that he deserved them for the trouble he had taken. As this did not agree with the seaman's intentions, he loaded his musket with ball, and fired, but fortunately missed him. He was preparing to load again, when the croud about him, seeing the life of their countryman so wantonly sported with, seized his arms. He called to his companions for help, but they were likewise surrounded; and though one of them fired a load of shot into the thighs of a native, this only exasperated them the more; so that he was beaten and bruised without mercy. Mahine's attendant, or servant, a stout youth, of a very low stature, accompanied our gentlemen, and fought desperately in their favour, but was overpowered by numbers. After this consession, the case was greatly altered; however, the captain resolved to question Oree once more, and to that purpose desired my father to accompany him to the shore, being convinced that no person on board was at this time so well versed in the language of the country. They soon learnt from Oree, that he intended we should march to the dwellings of the natives who had thus done themselves justice, and who seemed to have withdrawn themselves even from his power; and that he wished to take all their goods and hogs, and give them to us. Captain Cook returned to the ship, and selected a party of forty-seven Europeans, including the officers, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myself; not indeed to reduce the rebellious subjects of Oree to their duty, who had so much reason to complain of injustice from our people, but perhaps to shew that he did not entirely approve of their conduct. We landed, and marched with Oree and a few of the natives towards the district where the robbery was committed. In proportion as we advanced, the croud at our heels encreased in number to several hundreds, and took up arms in the neighbouring houses. Oree himself wielded a spear ten feet long, with a barbed tail of sting-ray at the point. We halted at the distance of about two miles, and were now acquainted by Mahine that the natives had formed the plan of surrounding and cutting us off. Oree was desirous to stay behind; but captain Cook persuaded him and a few other chiefs to go with us, whilst the rest of the croud were ordered to proceed no further, under pretence, that in case of an engagement, we should not be able to distinguish friends from foes. We marched about three miles to a place where the path divided; we chose that which led across a very steep rock, in preference to another at the foot of it. Steps were cut in the rock on the opposite side, where we descended again on the plain. This pass was so dangerous, that captain Cook proposed to leave a detachment of his petty army here; but seeing that the croud advanced slowly after him, in spite of Oree's orders, he resolved to return, and declared to the natives that the enemy was too far off to be pursued. We came back to a spacious house, about halfway to the ship, where Oree regaled us with coco-nuts. Whilst we remained there, some of the natives brought several banana-stalks, two dogs, and a pig. They presented them to the captain, holding a long speech on the occasion, which was mostly unintelligible, but seemed to relate to the affair that had brought us into the field. A large hog was shewn to us at the same time, but instead of being presented, it was led off again. From hence we reached the sea-shore opposite the ship about noon, and then fired our muskets in platoons over the sea. This manӕuvre surprised the natives prodigiously, as it convinced them that we could keep up a constant fire, of which they had no idea before, and shewed them to what vast distances our balls could be projected. Thus ended our warlike expedition, to the wish of a few individuals amongst us, who had too great an affection for all their brethren, to desire their destruction. It was not so satisfactory to others, who, inured to the horrid scenes of war and bloodshed, had acquired, by force of habit, a detestable eagerness to try their skill in shooting at men, rather than at a mark!

We saw but few natives about the ship all the next afternoon; some fruit was however exchanged for small nails. Our friends visited us the next morning, with many presents of different sorts. One of them, a chief, named Morurua, had singled out my father as his friend, and came with his wife and family to see us. Several articles were distributed to them, in return for those which the chief had brought; but he thought our present so much more valuable than his, that he seemed quite enchanted, and his eyes with peculiar eloquence expressed a lively sense of gratitude. [Monday 23.]He returned therefore to us again the next morning, when we were getting under sail, and after loading us with new presents, dissolved in tears at parting.

We left the three friends of Mahine on this island, but had taken on board another native, who was sent from Oree with a message to O-Poonee, the king of Borabora. This ambassador appeared to be a very stupid fellow; we could not however dive into the secret of his mission, nor were any of us solicitous about it. His name was Hurree-hurree, which, in its English acceptation, seemed to be remarkably well chosen for a messenger.

[Tuesday 24]The next day before noon we anchored in the entrance of Hamaneno harbour, on the island of Raietea, and spent the rest of the day, till after sun-set, in warping the ship into the bason. The chief O-Rea came on board, and seemed highly delighted with our return. The appearance of Mahine and Hurree doubtless strengthened his good opinion of us, and inspired all his people with confidence. We went on shore to his house with captain Cook the next morning, [Wednesd. 25.]and were met by his wife and his daughter Poyadua. The wife cut her head with a shark's tooth, and received the blood on a bit of cloth; and both wept and sobbed aloud together for some time. However when they had concluded this ceremony, they were as merry as if nothing had happened. We were confined to his house by heavy showers of rain till noon, when we returned to the ship, which was now brought into a narrow creek, where she lay close to the shore, for the convenience of watering.

We walked along this creek in the afternoon, as far as the intermittent showers would permit. The shore was lined with innumerable canoes, whilst every house and shed was crouded with people, many of whom were preparing large and luxurious dinners, from heaps of provisions which were every where accumulated. We were told that a peculiar society or order of persons of both sexes, named Arreoy,9 existed in these islands; and that they assembled at times from all parts, and travelled through all the islands, feasting and carousing to excess. During the time we lay at Huahine, we had observed no less than seventy canoes, with more than seven hundred of these arreoys on board, crossing over to Raietea in one morning. We were told that they had spent a few days on the east side of the island, and were arrived on its western shore only a day or two before us. We took notice that they were all persons of some consequence, and of the race of chiefs. Some of the men were punctured in large broad blotches; and Mahine assured us, these were the most eminent members of the society, and that the more they were covered with punctures, the higher was their rank. They were in general stout and well made, and all professed themselves warriors. Mahine had a very high veneration for this society, and told us he himself was a member. They are united by the ties of reciprocal friendship, and exercise hospitality towards each other in its greatest latitude. As soon as an arreoy visits another, though he were unknown to him, he is sure to have his wants supplied, and his desires gratified; he is introduced to other members of the order, and they vie with each other in loading him with caresses and presents. It was to this principle that Mahine ascribed all the pleasures which he had enjoyed at Taheitee. The first people who saw him on board were arreoys according to his account, and in that quality made him a present of their garments, since he had no other than European cloaths. It appears, that one or more persons of each little family of chiefs enter into this community, of which the invariable and fundamental character is, that none of its members are permitted to have any children. From the accounts of the most intelligent among the natives, we have great room to suppose, that the original institution required their living in perpetual celibacy. As this law was too repugnant to the impulses of nature, which must be uncommonly strong in their climate, they soon transgressed it; but preserved the intention of the prescribed abstinence, by suffocating their unfortunate offspring immediately after birth.

The arreoys enjoy several privileges, and are greatly respected throughout the Society Islands and Taheitee; nay, they claim a great share of honour from the very circumstance of being childless. Tupaya when he heard that the king of England had a numerous offspring, declared he thought himself much greater, because he belonged to the arreoys [194] This anecdote I have heard from captain Cook in conversation. . In most other countries the name of a parent gives honour and respect; but when an arreoy, at Taheitee, emphatically bestows it, it is meant as a term of contempt and reproach. The arreoys keep great meetings at stated times, travelling from one island to another. They feast on the choicest vegetables, and on plenty of pork, dog's flesh, fish, and poultry, which is liberally furnished by the towtows, or lower class, for their entertainment. The pepper-root drink is prepared and swallowed in surprising quantities on these occasions. Wherever they go, the train of sensual pleasure waits upon them. They are amused with music and dances, which are said to be particularly lascivious at night, when no other spectators besides themselves are admitted.

In a country so far emerged from barbarism as Taheitee, it cannot be supposed that a society would have maintained itself to the present time, which appears so injurious to the rest of the nation, unless its advantages were so considerable, as to require its continuance. Two reasons seem to favour the existence of arreoys, and both are in some measure connected together. The first appears to be the necessity of entertaining a body of warriors, to defend their fellow-citizens from the invasions and depredations of enemies. This is confirmed by the circumstance, that all the arreoys are warriors; but as love might be supposed to enervate them, they were restrained to that celibacy, which they have since found it too difficult to observe. The second reason for the association of the arreoys, seems to be to prevent the too rapid propagation of the race of chiefs.10 An intelligent man, who perhaps was once the law-giver of Taheitee, might foresee, that the common people would at length groan under the yoke of this numerous and ever-multiplying breed of petty-tyrants [195] See vol. I. p. 367. . To oblige a part of them to a single life, was the shortest means of obtaining this end; but certain glaring advantages were to be held out, to make them submit without reluctance to such a restraint. From hence we may derive that high esteem with which the whole nation honours the order of arreoy; and likewise account for their authority, and for their gluttony in eating, which has been the privilege of warriors in every country, before they became the tools of tyranny. When the arreoys had once so far departed from the laws of their first institution, as to admit the commerce with the sex, it is easy to conceive, that, by insensible degrees, they have almost wholly lost the original chaste and sober spirit of the order. They are at present, without doubt, the most luxurious set of people in the island; though I have not found the least reason to charge them with a refinement in voluptuousness,11 which is at once improbable, and inconsistent with the tenderness of the whole people. We have been told a wanton tale of promiscuous embraces, where every woman is common to every man: but when we enquired for a confirmation of this story from the natives, we were soon convinced that it must, like many others, be considered as the groundless invention of a traveller's gay fancy.

Some arreoys are married to a woman, in the same manner as Mahine was to the daughter of Toperree [196] See page 89. ; but others keep a temporary mistress. Many may perhaps revel in the arms of several prostitutes, which are to be met with in all the islands. This dissolute pleasure is however much more frequent in every civilized country of Europe; but I apprehend it would not authorise an assertion, that in Europe there exists a society of men and women, who practise a particular refinement of sensuality [197] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 207, &c. . When we consider the whole character of the Taheitians; when we recollect their gentleness, their generosity, their affectionate friendship, their tenderness, their pity, we cannot reconcile these qualities to the murder of their own offspring. We shudder at the stern inhumanity of the father, but much more so at the obdurate heart of the mother, where the voice of nature, and of powerful instinct, should cry aloud for mercy and protection. The paths of virtue are but too easily forsaken; still we are at a loss to conceive, how a people so much left to nature, could arrive at such a detestable pitch of depravity: but custom,

That monster custom, who all sense doth eat

Of habits evil ________

Shakespeare.12

gradually blunts every feeling, and overcomes the stings of remorse. We had no sooner learnt that such an unnatural and barbarous practice stigmatized the society of arreoy, than we reprehended our young friend Mahine for valuing himself on being a member of such a detestable body. We endeavoured to point out the immorality and cruelty of this practice, and made use of every argument which our reflections could furnish, or our words express. We easily succeeded in convincing him, and obtained a promise that he would not kill his children, but separate from the society as soon as he should receive the glorious name of father. To our great satisfaction he assured us, that the instances of arreoys having children were extremely rare. It seems that they choose their wives and mistresses among the prostitutes; and from this circumstance, as well as from their great voluptuousness, they have seldom reason to dread the intrusion of an unfortunate infant. The answers of O-Maï, whom I consulted on this subject after my return to England, gave me still greater pleasure, as they softened the transgression at least of one part, and entirely freed the bulk of the nation from that share of guilt, which the simple acquiescence in such a heinous crime might throw upon them. He assured me, that the invariable laws of the community of arreoy required the extinction of their offspring; that the pre-eminence and advantages which a man enjoyed as arreoy were so valuable, as to urge him on against his own feelings; that the mother was never willing to consent to the horrid murder, but that her husband and other arreoys persuaded her to yield up the child; and that when entreaties were not sufficient, force was sometimes employed. But above all, he added, that this act was always performed in secret, and so that none of the people, not even the towtows or attendants of the house, were present; because, if it were seen, the murderers must be put to death. This being the case, we may comfort ourselves with the reflection, that criminal individuals are not more numerous in the Society Islands, than among other people; and that the votaries of vice have no reason to triumph, in supposing a whole nation accustomed to commit unnatural murders, without a sense of wrong [198] Depravity is much more at home in our polished climate, and I must here mention an instance which stains society with indelible dishonour. In the metropolis of England, there are wretches, who publicly declare their skill, and offer their services, to procure abortion. (See an advertisement to that effect in a public paper, No. 1322, for Wednesday, January 15, 1777.) They are suffered with impunity to make a trade of destroying human beings in the womb. Such is the salutary consequence of lenity towards the murderers of innocent babes! .

[Thursday 26.]The arreoys were no less hospitable than luxurious, and it was not for want of invitation that we did not partake of their refreshments. We rambled in the country till sunset, and then returned to the ship, which Mahine, the woman, and the other Indian passengers had now left. The next morning a great number of natives came to the ship in their canoes, among whom were many women, who remained with the sailors. At Huahine the commerce of this kind had been very inconsiderable, and chiefly confined to women who were only on a visit to that island; it was therefore resumed here with the greatest eagerness by our crew. We passed the day on an excursion to the northward, where we shot several wild ducks, and met with a hospitable reception in different cottages.

The next was a fine day, delightfully tempered by a strong easterly gale. We received the visits of Orea and all his family, of Boba, the viceroy of the island of O-Tahà, and of Teïna, the fair dancing-woman, whose picture Mr. Hodges had formerly attempted to draw [199] See vol. I. p. 402. and the plate in captain Cook's account of this voyage, which is engraved from Mr. Hodges's drawing. . Boba was a tall, handsome young man, a native of Borabora, related to Poonee, the king of that island, and conqueror of Raietea and Tahà. Mahine has frequently told us, that he is destined to be the successor of O-Poone, whose only daughter Maïwherua, said to be a young beautiful princess, twelve years old, he is to marry. Boba was at present an arreoy, and kept the lively Teïna as his mistress, who was with child in consequence. We entered into conversation with her on the custom of killing the offspring of an arreoy. The short dialogue which passed between us was couched in the most simple expressions, because we had not sufficient knowledge of the language to discourse of abstract ideas. For the same reason all our rhetoric was exhausted in a few moments, and had no other effect, than to draw the following concession from Teïna-maï: " that our eatua (deity) in England might perhaps be offended by the practice of the arreoys; but that her's was not displeased with it. She promised, however, if we would come from England to fetch her child, she might perhaps keep it alive, provided we gave her a hatchet, a shirt, and some red feathers." This was said in such a laughing tone, that we had not the least room to believe her in earnest. It was in vain to attempt to continue the conversation, since a variety of objects diverted her attention: it was a wonder indeed that she had lent an ear to our questions so long.

In the afternoon we went ashore, to see a dramatic dance performed by Orea's daughter Poyadua, and found a great number of inhabitants assembled at the play-house; this diversion being admired by all ranks of the people. Poyadua displayed her agility as usual, and received great applause from the European spectators. The interludes performed by the men were something different from those we had seen before. We could plainly understand the name of captain Cook, and of several of our shipmates, mentioned in their songs, and they seemed to represent a theft committed by their people.13 Another of the interludes was the invasion of the Borabora men, which they expressed by beating one another with a thong or whip, which made a very loud smack. But still another was more curious than all the rest: it represented a woman in labour, and provoked immoderate pearls of laughter from the multitude. The man who acted this part went through the gestures, which the Greeks were wont to admire in the groves of Venus-Ariadne, near Amathus, where the same ceremony was acted on the second day of the month Gorpiœus, in memory of Ariadne, who died in child-bed [200] Vide Plutarch, in Theseo. . Thus it appears, that there is scarcely a practice, though ever so ridiculous, existing in any corner of the world, that has not been hit upon by the extravagant fancy of men in some other region. A tall stout fellow, dressed in cloth, personated the new born infant in such a ludicrous style, that we could not refuse joining in the plaudits which his countrymen bestowed upon him. Anatomists and midwives would have been surprised to observe, that this overgrown babe had every necessary character of a child newly born; but the natives were particularly delighted with his running about the stage, whilst the rest of the dancers endeavoured to catch him. The ladies were much pleased with this scene, which, according to the simplicity of their ideas, had not the least indecency; they looked on, therefore, unconcernedly, and were not obliged, like some European dames, to peep through their fans.

[Saturday 28.]The next morning we travelled along the shore to the southward, and met with a very fertile country, and hospitable people. We came early to a large building of stone, which was called Maraï no Parua, Parua's burying-place. I have already mentioned that this name was likewise given to Tupaya, who went in the Endeavour; but I am doubtful whether the burying-place relates to Tupaya, since it generally bears the appellation of some living chief. Indeed it is not improbable that another Parua might be alive on the island, after whom the maraï was named, especially as all the natives in the neighbourhood strenuously asserted, that this Parua was an aree, which was not always allowed of Tupaya. This monument was sixty yards long, and five wide; the walls were made of large stones, and about six or eight feet high. We climbed over, and found the space within covered with a heap of small coral stones.

From thence we walked on several miles, till we arrived at a spacious bay, where three little islands lie within the reef. The country round this bay was swampy, and well stocked with ducks. Here we passed some time in shooting, and then embarked in two small canoes, and were safely landed at one of the little islands. We found a few coco palms and shrubs, but no fruit-trees upon it; and there was only a single fisherman's hut, containing some nets, and other fishing-tackle. We returned very soon to the main shore, having found no shells, though the hope of meeting with some had principally induced us to cross the water. We dined with a native who had invited us, and returned to the ship in a canoe about sun-set. The chief Orea had dined on board with captain Cook during our absence, and had drank about a bottle of wine, without appearing in the least intoxicated. He had however, as usual, been extremely facetious, and had conversed chiefly of the countries which we had lately visited, and of which he had received an account from his countryman Mahine. After being satisfied in regard to many particulars, he said, that though we had seen a great deal, he would tell us of an island which we had not met with in our voyages. " It lies," said he, " but a few days sail from hence, but it is inhabited by a monstrous race of giants, as tall as the main-mast, and as thick about the middle as the drum-head of the capstan. They are very good-natured people, but if they are ever incensed against any body, they take him up, and throw him as far into the sea as I would throw a stone. If you should happen to come there with your ship, they would perhaps wade up to it, and carry it ashore on their backs." He added several other ludicrous circumstances, and concluded with telling us the name of the island, Mirro mirro, in order to give greater weight to his assertion. It appeared evidently to us, that his whole story was a fine piece of irony, directed against those parts of our narrative which he did not believe, and of which he could have no conception.14 We admired the witty humour which was so conspicuous in this little flight of fancy, and with M. de Bougainville looked up to its great source, the affluence of the country, which produced contentment and pleasure [201] See his Voyage round the World, English ed. p. 257. .15

[Sunday 29.]During the next night some of the natives stole the rudders, grapnels, and boat-hooks belonging to our boats, which were fastened to the buoy. As soon as this theft was discovered in the morning, the captain acquainted Orea with it, who immediately embarked with him in a boat, and rowed several miles to the southward. In about an hour's time they landed, and almost all the stolen articles being returned to our people, they came back to the ship entirely satisfied. I had been on shore in the creek during this time, and saw a heeva, or dance, performed by two little girls; but their dress was not so grand, and their action much inferior to that of Poyadua. The tamow, or head-dress of plaited hair, was not laid like a turban, but formed several large locks, which had a pretty effect, and resembled in some measure the high heads of our modern ladies.16

In the afternoon Poyadua performed a dance; and as if she meant to outshine the other actresses, she had ornamented her dress more than usual, and wore a great quantity of various sorts of European beads. Her wonderful agility, the graceful motion of her arms, and the quick vibration of her fingers, were as much admired there by the natives, as we applaud them in our dancers; and since all these accomplishments are taught in the South Sea islands by nature only, it must be confessed that Poyadua deserved the encomiums which all the spectators bestowed upon her. The inhabitants were particularly delighted with the extraordinary contortions into which she screwed her mouth; though we were so little of their mind, that we could not help thinking them horridly frightful. The meeting of the arreoys gave rise to these frequent dramatic entertainments; their presence seemed to enliven the whole country, and to inspire all the people with extraordinary cheerfulness. They frequently shifted their garments,17 made of their best kinds of cloth; they passed their time in luxurious idleness, perfuming their hair with fragrant oils, singing and playing on the flute, and passing from one entertainment to another; in short, they enjoyed the blessings of their islands in the utmost extent; and so much resembled the happy indolent people whom Ulysses found in Phӕacia, that they could apply the poet's lines to themselves with peculiar propriety:

To dress, to dance, to sing, our sole delight,

The feast or bath by day, and love by night.

Pope's Homer.18

Our friend Mahine was perhaps the only person among the nobility who did not enjoy that great degree of happiness which so visibly reigned among the rest. He was not received with those distinguishing marks of favour which had been lavished upon him at Taheitee; for it seems, even in the South Seas, a man is no where less esteemed than in his own country. All his relations, who were extremely numerous, expected presents as their due; whilst at Taheitee his liberality made him friends, and procured him great advantages. As long as the generous youth had some of those riches left, which he had collected at the peril of his life, on our dangerous and dismal cruize, he was perpetually importuned to share them out; and though he freely distributed all he had, some of his acquaintances complained that he was niggardly. He was soon reduced to beg a supply of European wares from his friends on board, having only saved a few red feathers, and some other curiosities, as a present for O-Poonee, the king of Borabora, to whom he was related. Under these disagreeable circumstances, he longed to return to Taheitee, and told us he was resolved to settle there, as soon as he should have visited Poonee and his other relations at Borabora. He would willingly have embarked with us again for England, if we had given him the least hope of returning to the South Sea; but captain Cook having told him, that no ship would ever be sent to his islands again, he deprived himself of the pleasure of seeing our country, rather than part for ever from his native groves. When we reflect on the fate of his countryman, O-Maï, we have some reason to think this determination fortunate for his heart and morals. The splendour of England remains unknown to him; but at the same time he has no idea of those enormities which disgrace the opulent capitals of the world.

After the dance was over, Mahine invited us to the district in which his lands were situated. He had frequently told us, that he had possessions in this island; but as some of our people had doubted of his veracity, he was glad to take an opportunity of justifying himself. [Monday 30.]The next morning therefore, at day break, we set off in two boats, and taking on board Orea and all his family, we arrived, after two hours sail, at Wharai-te-Vah, a district at the north-east end of the island. We were welcomed by Mahine and two of his elder brothers, and conducted to a spacious house. A fire was immediately made in a hole in the ground, and some large stones heated. With the same preparations, which are already described by captain Cook in his former voyage [202] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 152. , a large hog was killed, cleaned, wrapped in fresh leaves, and put into the hole or oven, and covered with hot stones and a heap of earth. Whilst it continued to be stewed there, with a quantity of fruit, my father, with Dr. Sparrman and myself, went up the neighbouring hills, where we found nothing new, though we were at least seven or eight miles from our ship. After a walk of two hours we returned, and in a short time our dinner was served up on green leaves. The fat of the entrails, together with the blood, had been wrapped up separately in a few leaves, and the fattest chiefs and arreoys in company immediately seized upon, and swallowed them by handfuls. The rest dined with an uncommon degree of voracity; whilst a great croud of towtows, with their greedy looks, devoured the feast, of which they did not taste a single morsel. Some share of the pork was given to Orea's wife and daughter, who carefully wrapped it up, in order to eat it apart. Thus it seems, that though the hog was wholly dressed, prepared, and distributed by men, yet this did not make it improper for the women to partake of it. At other times, it appears, that different persons cannot eat what has been touched by one or other of the same family [203] See Hawkesworth, vol. II.19 ; we are therefore unable to conceive by what rule their custom of eating separately is conducted. The Taheitians are not the only people who do not eat with their women; several nations of negroes, and even the natives of Labrador, have adopted the same idea. From the general conduct of these African and Eskimaux tribes, an unnatural contempt for the sex appears to be their motive for this unsociable custom. But as the Taheitian women are very kindly treated, and highly esteemed by the men, the custom must have some other origin among them, which a connected series of accurate observations may perhaps in time lead us to discover.

The captain had taken with him a few bottles of brandy, which, mixed with water, makes the favourite liquor of sailors, called grog. The arreoys and some other chiefs, finding it strong, and almost as nauseous as their pepper-root drink, drank very freely of it, and afterwards took some small cups of pure brandy, which they relished so well, and repeated so often, that they were soon obliged to lie down to sleep. We returned to the ship about five o'clock in the afternoon; and the day being remarkably warm, we went ashore to bathe in a beautiful fountain, which we had constantly made use of for that purpose during our stay. A fragrant shrubbery hung round it, screening from the sun the water, which was temperately cool, and perfectly limpid. We found the use of this bath extremely refreshing; and the natives had probably experienced the same effect, as they constantly resorted to it every morning and evening. Such pleasing spots are frequent in these islands; they contribute greatly to their embellishment, and without doubt, are instrumental in preserving the health of the inhabitants.

We passed the next days in various excursions towards the hills, where we collected a few plants, which we had not met with before. These hills exactly resembled those of Taheitee, but were somewhat lower. We found a romantic valley between them, surrounded by a forest of various trees and shrubs, and furnished with a beautiful rivulet, which fell in many cascades over broken rocks and precipices.

[1774. June.][Thusday 2.]On our returning from our last walk, we received a very interesting piece of intelligence from the natives. One of them, just arrived from the island Huahine, told us that two ships lay at anchor there, one of them considerably larger than ours, but the other about the same size. Captain Cook called the man into his cabin, where he repeated the same story to us, and confirmed it, by asserting that he had been on board the lesser ship, and had been made drunk there. We enquired for the names of the captains, and he told us that of the greater ship was Tabane, and the other Tonno. These were the names by which the natives designed Mr. Banks and captain Furneaux. Captain Cook was therefore surprised to hear them named, and enquired of what stature these persons were. The native very readily told us, that the one whom he called Tabane was a tall man, but the other considerably less. This answer corresponded extremely well with truth; but as it was very improbable that captain Furneaux would remain at Huahine, after hearing that his senior officer lay so near him, we concluded that the ships must belong to some other nation. At our return to the Cape of Good Hope, we heard that captain Furneaux had sailed from that settlement long before the time when he was supposed to be at Huahine, and that Mr. Banks had not left Europe. We have since learnt that M. St. Denis a French navigator, has been in the South Seas at the time in question with two ships.

The chief, O-Rea, at first confirmed this news, but afterwards suspecting that it might hasten our departure, he was unwilling to give his opinion, and seeming to doubt of the truth of the report, always abruptly changed the subject of conversation, with all the art of an European politician.20

The next day the natives came in great numbers to the ship with abundance of provisions, which they sold very [Friday 3.]cheap, as captain Cook proposed to sail the next day. His store of hatchets and knives had been expended long ago; our armourer was therefore set to work to make new ones, which were ill-shapen, and of very little worth, particularly the knives, which were made of pieces of iron hoops. The natives were contented with them, not knowing how to distinguish the good from the bad by the eye. They sometimes picked our pockets, or stole what we did not sufficiently look after; but their simplicity now gave room for a severe retaliation.21

Among the natives of the Society Islands there are a few men who preserve the national traditions, together with all their ideas of mythology and astronomy. Mahine, whilst we were at sea, had frequently spoken of them as the most learned of his countrymen, and named them Tata-o-Rerro, which we would express by teachers. After much enquiry, we found a chief, named Tootavaï, in the district of Hamaneno, who was distinguished by this epithet. As our departure was so near at hand, we regretted that we had not known him sooner; but my father determined to employ his remaining time in making enquiries on a subject so interesting as the history of religious opinions.

Tootavaï was pleased with an opportunity of displaying his knowledge; he was flattered with the attention which we paid to his words, and therefore continued to converse on the same subject with much greater patience and perseverance, than we could have expected from a lively inhabitant of these islands. The religion of the islanders appears to be as singular a system of polytheism as ever was invented. Few nations are so wretched, and so wholly occupied with the means of preserving their existence, as to lay aside all ideas of a creator. These ideas rather seem to have remained traditionally among mankind, ever since the first ages, when the Deity revealed himself. Agreeably to this opinion, the people of Taheitee and the Society Islands have preserved this spark of divine instruction, and believe the existence of a Supreme Being, the maker and progenitor of all things, visible and invisible. It has been the fate of most nations to investigate more or less the qualities of this universal and incomprehensible spirit, and to adopt absurdities, by overstepping the bounds prescribed by the Creator himself to our senses and mental faculties. The different attributes of the Deity were soon personified by narrow minds, which could not contain the vast idea of supreme perfection. Gods and goddesses then became innumerable, and one error still gave birth to many more. Man, in the course of education, received from his father the knowledge of a God; and a spontaneous principle within him cherished this idea. Population encreased, the distinctions of ranks took place, and proportionately influenced the gratification of the senses. In every society, some individual or other took advantage of the general propensity to adore, endeavoured to captivate the judgment of the multitude, and by misrepresenting and separating the qualities of the Almighty, converted the filial affection of mankind towards their benefactor into a jealous dread of his anger. At the Society Islands I apprehend this to be the case: they adore divinities of all sorts and qualities; but what is most singular, every island has a separate theogony. This will appear more clearly by comparing the following account with the observations on their religion in captain Cook's first voyage [204] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 237, &c. . Tootavàï began with telling us, that in every island of this group, they gave the supreme God, creator of earth and skies, a different name; or, to express it more clearly, that in every island they believe a different deity, though always one of those which are known to them all, to hold the first rank. Thus at Taheitee and Eimeo, they say the Supreme Being is O-Rooa-hattoo; at Huahine they maintain that it is Tanè; at Raietea, O-Roò; at O-Tahà, Orra; at Bolabola, Taoòtoo; at Mowrua, O-Too; and at Tabbooa-mannoo ( Sir Charles Saunders's Island) Taròä. Thirteen divinities preside over the sea, and govern it; viz. 1. Ooroohàddoo. 2. Tama-ooee. 3. Ta-apèe. 4. O-Tooareeònoo. 5. Tanèea. 6. Tahou-meònna. 7. Orà-mauwe. 8. O-Whaï. 9. O-Whàtta. 10. Tahòoa. 11. Te-ootya. 12. O-Mahooroo. 13. O-Whàddoo. But notwithstanding all these governors, a different divinity, Oo-marrèo, is said to have created the sea. The same case exists with regard to the sun, which was created by O-Maïwee, a powerful god, who causes earthquakes. The divinity which resides in, and governs the sun, is called Tootòomo-hororìrree. They have ventured to attribute to this deity a beautiful human form, whose hair descends down to his feet. They assert, that the deceased go thither to dwell with him, and are continually feasted there with bread-fruit and pork, which need no preparation from the fire. They believe every man to have a separate being within him, named Tee and lodges in the wooden images, which are placed round the burying-places, and which are called by the same name, tee. Thus the belief of a future existence, and that of the combination of matter and spirit, have reached the remotest islands of the earth. Whether they have any idea of rewards and punishments in a future state, we could not learn; but it is most reasonable to suppose that such ideas have occurred to a nation so far advanced as the Taheitians. The moon was created by a female divinity, named O-Heenna, who likewise governs that planet, and resides in its black spot or cloud. The women sing a short couplet, which seems to be an act of adoration paid to that divinity, perhaps because they suppose her to have some influence upon their physical œconomy.22

Te-Oòwa no te Màlama,

Te-òowa te heenàrro.23

The cloud within the moon,

That cloud I love! ______

We may venture to suppose, that the Taheitian goddess of the moon is not the chaste Diana of the ancients, but rather the Phœnician Astarte. The stars were created by a goddess called Tettoo-mataròu, and the winds are governed by the god Orree-òrree.

Besides these greater divinities, they have a considerable number of inferior orders, some of whom are said to be mischievous, and to kill men in their sleep.24 They are worshipped publicly at the principal maraïs, or monuments of stone, by the Tahowa-rahaï, or high-priest of the island.25 The beneficent gods are addressed in prayers, which are not pronounced aloud, but are distinguished and made known only by the motion of the lips. The priest looks up to the skies, and the eatua, or god, is supposed to come down and hold converse with him, unseen by all the people, and heard by none but the priest himself. Surely this is an evident mark of the influence of priestcraft, whose great aim is ever to veil religion in mystery. From a principle directly opposite to this, the Christian doctrine derives one of those incontestible characters of a divine origin, which distinguish it from all the deceitful inventions of human understanding, and carry persuasion to the mind. This religion does not wear the mysterious cloak, which can only serve to cover darkness, but appears to us divested of all kinds of trappings, and throws a pure and steady light around. It admits of no mystery, and its true and venerable ministers have at all times assured and convinced us, that they reserved no private knowledge for themselves, which was not communicated to the meanest of those who bow the knee to their pure and divine Creator; " for all shall know him, from the least to the greatest." Hebr. viii. ii.

Offerings are made to the gods, of hogs and poultry roasted, and of all kinds of eatables; but the inferior, and particularly the malevolent spirits, are only revered by a kind of hissing. Some of these spirits are said to come into the houses of the natives at night, and to kill them; others are said to inhabit a certain deserted island named Mannua,26 where they are visible in the shape of strong, tall men, with fiery eyes, and devour those who happen to approach their coast: but this rather alludes to the anthropophagy, which, as I have before observed, seems to have existed at these islands, previous to their present state of civilization.27 A number of plants are particularly sacred to the deities. The casuarina, the coco-palm, and the banana, are frequently planted near maraïs, or public places of worship. A species of cratœva, a sort of pepper, the hibiscus populneus, the dracœna terminalis, and the calophyllum, are all found in the same places, and are alike considered as signs of peace and friendship. Some birds, such as a species of heron, king's-fisher, and cuckoo, are also consecrated to the deity; but I have already mentioned, that they are not held in equal veneration by all the people; and it is also to be observed, that different islands protect different birds.

The priests of these islands continue in office during their life, and their dignity is hereditary. The high-priest of every island is always an aree, who has the highest rank after the king. They are consulted upon many important occasions, partake largely of the good things of the country, and in short have found means to make themselves necessary. Besides the priests, there is also in every district one or two teachers, or tata-o-rerro, like Tootavaï, who are skilled in theogony and cosmogony, and at certain times instruct the people in these things. The same persons likewise preserve the knowledge of geography, together with their ideas of astronomy and the division of time. They have the names of fourteen lunar months, in the following order:28 1. O-Pororo-moòa. 2. O-Pororo-mooree. 3. Moorehàh. 4. Oohee-eiya. 5. O-Whirre-ammà;. 6. Taòwa. 7. O-Whirre-erre-erre. 8. O-Tearree. 9. Ote-tàï. 10. Wàrehoo. 11. Wàhou. 12. Pippirree. 13. E-Oonoònoo. 14. Oo-mannoo. The first seven months collectively are called Ooroo, or a bread-fruit season; but in what manner they arrange these months, in order to effect a complete cycle or a year, is a mystery to us at present. It should seem that some of the months, especially the second and seventh, are intercalary, from the resemblance of their names to those of the first and fifth, and that they are inserted in different years. Each of the lunations consists of twenty-nine days. During the two last days of the lunation, they say the moon is dead, because it does not appear; it is therefore plain that they begin to count from the moon's first appearance, and not from the real time of the conjunction. The twenty-fifth day of the thirteenth moon, E-Oonoonoo, was our third of June, when we obtained this information.

The name of tahowa, which the Taheitians apply to priests, is not entirely confined to them, but is also given to those persons who know the virtues of a few plants, which are used as remedies against different disorders. Their medicines are few, and very simple, but their diseases are not manifold and complicated.29

As soon as we had obtained these accounts from Tootavaï, the ship unmoored, on the fourth of June, about ten in the morning. The king of Raietea, Oo-ooroo, to whom the conqueror O-Poonee had left the title and honour of royalty, visited us with some of his relations, just before our departure. O-Rea with his family was likewise on board, and Mahine with his relations came to take their leave. The parting scene was extremely affecting; all our friends shed tears plentifully, but poor Mahine's heart seemed torn to pieces by the violence of his grief. He ran from cabin to cabin, and embraced every one of us, without being able to speak a single word. His tears, his sighs and looks were eloquent beyond description. At last the ship set sail; he got into his canoe, and continued standing upright, whilst all his countrymen were seated. He looked at us, then hung down his head, and hid it in his garments. When we had cleared the reefs, we still perceived him to wave his extended arms; and he continued his addresses till we could no longer discern him.

Thus we left an amiable nation, who, with all their imperfections, are perhaps more innocent and pure of heart, than those who are more refined and better instructed. Without quoting the example of Mahine, we have often been witnesses to reciprocal acts of kindness,. which convinced us, that the social virtues are frequently exercised amongst themselves. I have seen a single bread-fruit, or a few coco-nuts shared between a number of people, so that every one partook of them. I have observed them parting with their cloaths, and doing several charitable actions to each other, with the same good-will which they expressed towards us. We should indeed be ungrateful, if we did not acknowledge the kindness with which they always treated us; they were ready to carry us on their backs in and out of our boats, to prevent the surf from wetting our feet; they often loaded themselves with the curiosities which we had purchased; and rarely refused to go into the water in quest of any bird which we had shot. If the rain caught us on our excursions, or the heat of the sun and the fatigue of the journey oppressed us, we were invited to repose in their dwellings, and feasted on their best provisions; our friendly host stood at a distance, and never tasted any thing till we entreated him; whilst some of the family were employed in fanning us with a leaf, or the bough of a tree. Before we left the house we were commonly adopted, according to our different ages, in the quality of fathers, brothers, or sons.30 This circumstance was owing to an opinion that we were all related. The chiefs in all the Society Islands are descended from the same family; our officers, therefore, and all those who dined or messed together, were by them considered as relations. They supposed that captain Cook and my father were brothers, purely from this reason; for, with all their good heart, they are but indifferent physiognomists. Their hospitality towards us was frequently quite disinterested; and gave us a right to form the most flattering conclusions in regard to their conduct towards each other. They are hospitable without seeming to know it; and leave to strangers who visit them, the pleasing and grateful task of recording their virtues.

CHAP. VIII.

Run from the Society to the Friendly Islands.

[1774. June.]WE fired a salute of several guns on leaving the island of Raietea, [Saturday 4.]in honour of his majesty's birth day; and this discharge of our artillery afforded no small entertainment to the inhabitants. During the six weeks which we had spent at Taheitee and the Society Islands, we had been well refreshed, and were perfectly recovered from our bilious and scorbutic complaints: a venereal disorder was, however, the reward of those, that

________with unbashful forehead, woo'd

The means of sickness and debility.

Shakespeare.

Nearly one half of our crew were afflicted with this nauseous and shameful disease; though it was in general less virulent than in Europe. Our conversations with Mahine on its ravages, gave us the greatest reason to be convinced, that it existed at Taheitee and the Society Islands previous to captain Wallis's voyage in 1768. Mahine frequently assured us, that several years before that period, his mother died of this disease at Borabora. Its appearance has therefore been attributed to a wrong cause in various parts of the world. For the space of near three centuries the Spaniards have been accused by physicians, and detested by moralists, for bringing the infection from America, which is now incontrovertibly proved to have begun in Europe, previous to the discovery of America [205] See Petr. Martyr. ab Angleria. Decad. American. __ Dissertation sur l'Origine de la Maladie Venerienne, par M. Sanchez. Paris, 1752. __ Examen historique sur l'Apparition de la Maladie Venerienne en Europe . Lisbonne, 1774. __and others. . The English and French navigators have charged each other with the introduction of this detestable disorder among the harmless and hospitable Taheitians; though they have long been acquainted with it, and are not ignorant of the art of curing it [206] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 233. . Nay, it seems that their simple diet, the salubrity of their climate, and a long space of time, have abated the acrimony of the virus, and brought it to that inactive state to which it is now reduced in South America. I am far from supposing, that the venereal complaint has been carried to America from Europe; no, the same causes which could give birth to it in one part of the world, are sufficient to produce it every where else. The commerce of our crews with the women of Tonga Tabboo, and the Marquesas: nay, their remarkable connections with the salacious females of Easter Island, had no sinister consequences. It may be inferred from thence, that the infection has not yet broke out at those islands, though such inferences are sometimes fallacious [207] See vol. I. p. 369. ; for captain Wallis left Taheitee without having a single venereal patient, though the distemper is now proved to have existed there before his arrival. It is also beyond a doubt, that the New Zeelanders [208] Ibid. p. 239. were afflicted with this disorder before any Europeans had an intercourse with them.

We passed the island of Mowrua in the afternoon, and stood to the westward with a favourable trade-wind. On the 6th, at eleven in the morning, we descried an island, which captain Wallis named after lord Howe. It is very low, consisting of coral ledges, which enclose a lagoon; and by its direction, it appears to be the same which the natives of the Society Islands call Mopeehàh. We found it situated in 16° 46' S. lat. and 154° 8' W. Several birds, called boobies,3 were seen in the neighbourhood of this little isle, which was to appearance uninhabited.

[Tuesday 7.]The next day at noon the wind shifted, and became contrary. During the whole afternoon it thundered and lightned, and we had several smart showers. The night was calm; but we fixed the electric chain at the mast-head, on account of the strong lightning which still continued. We had so faint a breeze, with intervening calms, during the next three days, that we made but slow advances. Tropic-birds and noddies visited us during this time; and our crew had the mortification of losing a great shark, after they had hooked and shot him with three bullets.

On the 11th, in the morning, the wind freshened again, and pushed us on to the W. S. W. for two days, at the expiration of which we had calms and foul winds to cope with, and saw frequent flashes of lightning at night. Seafowl of different sorts, and fishes, such as bonitos, dolphins, sharks, and grampusses, appeared about us at different times.

[Thursday 16.]On the 16th, in the morning, at eight o'clock, we discovered another low island. We were close to it about three in the afternoon, and sailed round it, without finding a landing place or harbour. It consisted of eight different isles, connected by reefs, and covered with trees, particularly coco-palms, which made it look remarkably pleasant. Vast flocks of aquatic birds appeared about it, from whence we concluded, that it was likewise uninhabited. In some parts there were extensive sandy beaches, where turtles probably resort to lay their eggs. The sea was also full of good fish, of different sorts, about us. This pretty little spot was named Palmerston Island, and lies in 18° 4' S. lat. and 163° 10' W.

[Monday 20.]We continued steering to the W. S. W. till the 20th, when we saw an island in the afternoon,4 of some elevation, on which, before sunset, we could discern the trees. We tacked all night to windward, and at the return of daylight stood towards it. Having approached within about two miles, we ran along the shore, which now appeared steep and rocky, with here and there a narrow sandy beach at the foot of the rock. It was nearly level every where, and its greatest height seemed not to exceed forty feet; but it was covered with woods and shrubberies along the summit. About ten o'clock, we perceived seven or eight people running close to the water's edge. They seemed to be of a blackish colour, and were naked; something white was wrapped about their heads and loins, and each had a spear, a club, or a paddle in his hand. In several chasms between the rocks, we observed a few small canoes hauled upon the shore. We now likewise took notice of some coco-nut trees, of no great height, which stood on the slope of the rocks. Two boats were hoisted out, armed and manned, in which the captain, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, Mr. Hodges, my father, and myself, went ashore. A reef of coral surrounds the whole coast at a short distance; but having found an opening, where the surf was not dangerous, we landed, and climbed up one of the adjacent rocks, where we posted some of our sailors and marines. It consisted entirely of sharp and craggy coral, and was covered with a variety of small shrubby plants, common to the low islands. Besides these, we found some new species, all which grew between the crevices of the coral, without the least atom of soil. Some curlews, snipes, and herons, of the same sort which we had observed at Taheitee, likewise appeared on this island. Having walked among the bushes, at the distance of about fifty yards from the water, we heard a loud halloo, upon which we retired to the rock, where our people had taken post. We now learnt that captain Cook, having walked up a long deep gulley, which lay before us, had entered the woods at a little distance from us. He had not proceeded far, when he heard somebody tumbling down from a tree. He supposed it was one of us, and called out to us, but was presently undeceived by the shouts of the Indian. We now called to the natives in those South Sea dialects which we were acquainted with, that we were friends, and desired them to come down to us. They were heard talking and shouting to each other for some time; and presently one of them appeared at the entrance of the gulley. His body was blackened as far as the waist; his head was ornamented with feathers placed upright, and in his hand he held a spear. Behind him we heard many voices in the chasm, though the trees prevented our seeing the people. At last a young man, to all appearance without a beard, stepped forward, and joined the first. He was like him blackened, and had a long bow, like those of Tonga-Tabboo, in his right hand. With the left he instantly flung a very large stone, with so much accuracy, as to hit Dr. Sparrman's arm a violent blow, at the distance of forty yards. The pain which it occasioned irritated my friend so much, that he let fly at his enemy; but it did not appear that the small shot had any effect. Both the natives retired soon after; and though we staid here for some time, performing the idle ceremony of taking possession, we saw nothing more of the inhabitants. After we had resumed our course along shore in the boats, we saw the people coming to the water's side at the place which we had left. The appearance of the coast was still the same as we advanced. We landed at the hazard of our necks in another place, which we left as soon as the boat's crew called out, that they perceived the natives above us. We continued till we came to a considerable chasm in the rock, before which a flat reef, full of holes and cavities, extended about fifty yards off shore. We drew up a line of sailors on the reef, and the captain with us walked into the chasm, where we found four canoes. They were very nearly of the same structure with those of Tonga-Tabboo, and had some carving, but were not so neatly wrought. They were single, and had strong out-riggers. Some were covered with coarse mats, and contained fishing-lines, spears, and pieces of wood, which appeared to have served as matches for fishing at night. The captain laid a small present of beads, nails, and medals on each canoe; but whilst he was so employed, I perceived a troop of natives coming down the chasm, and instantly acquainting our company of it, we all retired a few steps. Two of the natives, dressed with feathers, and blackened as the other before mentioned, advanced towards us with furious shouts, and spears in their hands. We called in friendly terms to them; but to no purpose. The captain endeavoured to discharge his musket, but it missed fire. He desired us to fire in our own defence, and the same thing happened to us all. The natives threw two spears: captain Cook narrowly escaped one of them by stooping; the other slid along my thigh, marking my cloaths with the black colour with which it was daubed. We tried to fire again, and at last my piece, loaded with small shot, went off, and Mr. Hodges fired a ball, which did no execution. At the same time a regular firing began behind us from our party, who having observed our retreat, had likewise viewed another troop of the natives coming down by a different path to cut us off. The effect of the small shot fortunately stopped the natives from rushing upon us, and gave us time to retreat to our men, who continued to fire with great eagerness, while any of the natives remained in sight. Two of these in particular, standing among the bushes, brandished their weapons in defiance a considerable while, but at last retired, one of them appearing to be wounded, by the dismal howl which we heard presently after. We now embarked, and resolved to abandon a set of people, whom no entreaties could prevail upon to become our friends. The nature of their country, which is almost inaccessible, seems to have contributed to make their tempers so unsociable. The whole island is purely a coral-rock, like that of the low islands, on which we saw very few coco-palms, and no useful trees. I have therefore formed a conjecture, that the interior parts are not so barren, but fit for the culture of nutritive vegetables. The general resemblance of this island to a coral ledge raised out of the water, almost leads me to suspect that it includes a fertile plain, which was once a lagoon. Whether a convulsion of the globe, or any other cause, lifted such a large piece of coral-rock forty feet above water, is a point which must be left to future philosophers to determine. The boats and arms of the natives resembled those of Tonga-Tabboo, and it is therefore probable that the people have the same origin; but their numbers are inconsiderable, and their civilization little advanced, since they are savage, and go naked. Their island seems to be about three leagues long, and was called Savage Island. It is situated in 19° 1' S. and 169° 37' W.

Having reached the ship, the boats were hoisted in, and the next morning we continued our course to the westward. A large high-finned whale, which was seen near the ship, spouted up the water, and several birds and fish attended us as usual.

On the twenty-fourth at night we lay to, as we expected to be very near A Namoka, or Rotterdam Island, one of the Friendly Isles discovered by Tasman in 1643. Breakers were heard a-head at two o'clock, and the land appeared at day-break. [Saturday 25.]We stood for it, and soon found it to consist of several low islands, connected by a vast reef. Another great reef lay to the northward, and we passed between them. At noon a canoe came off towards us, though the nearest land was above a league distant. We discerned two men in it, who stood on a long while, but at last, seeing that the ship gained upon them, they put about and returned. We could not help admiring the difference between this race, and the savages whom we had so lately left, and agreed that the name Friendly was very justly given to them. The wind slackened all the afternoon, and died away to a perfect calm during night. We approached so near one of the reefs by this means, that we ran great risk of being wrecked; but a breeze springing up in the morning, we were out of danger in a short time.

[Sunday 26.]The next morning we sailed between reefs and small islands, which made the water smooth. The islands had a little more elevation than the common coral islands; they were covered with groves and tufts of trees, which gave them a most enchanting appearance. The houses were seen in great numbers among the trees on the beach, and the islands had an air of happiness and affluence. One of these little gardens rose at its east end into a white perpendicular cliff, with something like horizontal strata. At our distance it looked like the bastion of a ruined fort, and being fringed with woods and palms, formed altogether a romantic view. Towards noon the wind slackened, and canoes put off from different islands to visit us, though they were above a league distant. Some of them worked so hard, that they were near us in less than an hour; and when they were about a musket-shot off, they began to call to us from time to time, still continuing to paddle towards us. Three persons were in the canoe, exactly like the natives of Eä-oowhe and Tonga-Tabboo, whom we had seen in October, 1773. When they were along-side, a few beads and nails were presented to them, for which they immediately sent a bunch of bananas, and some delicious shaddocks ( citrus decumanus) on the deck, besides a bunch of the red fruits of the palm-nut tree or pandang ( athrodactylis) which is a sign of friendship. This being done, they sold us all the shaddocks and fruit which they had, and came on board. In the mean while the other canoes arrived, and acted without the least caution, as if we had been long acquainted. They taught us the names of all the islands in the neighbourhood; that with the high cliff they called Terrefetchéâ; the other, which we admired so much for its beauty, Tonooméa: both these lay to the eastward of us. Mango-nooe (great) and Mango-eetee (little) were two islands to the west of us; and to the S. W. beyond them lay Namoka-nooee and Namoka-eetee; the first of which Tasman has called Rotterdam Island, or Anamocka.

After dinner the breeze freshened, and we sailed towards Namoka, which was the largest island of this group. The number of canoes encreased about us; they came from all the neighbouring islands with fruit, fish, and pigs, all which they disposed of for nails and rags.

We had soundings all the day between these islands, at first in forty and fifty, and afterwards, when we came nearer, in nine, twelve, fourteen, and twenty fathom. About four o'clock, having hauled round the south end of Namoka, we came to, on the lee or west side of it, where Tasman formerly lay. Our distance from the shore was about a mile. The coast of the island rose fifteen or twenty feet nearly perpendicular, after which it appeared almost level, having only a single hillock near the middle. This steep shore had some resemblance to the coast of Savage Island, which we had lately left, but the richness of its woods was infinitely greater. Innumerable coco-nut palms out-topped the woods, and ornamented the island on all sides.

Whilst we were coming to an anchor, one of the natives caught the lead, and tore the line which one of our people was heaving. He was desired to return it, but took no notice of the captain who spoke to him. A musket with ball was fired through his canoe; upon which he calmly removed to the other side of the ship. Our demand was repeated, and proving ineffectual again, was enforced by a load of small-shot, which made him smart. He instantly paddled to the head of the ship, where a rope hung overboard, to which he tied the line and lead. His countrymen were not satisfied with this restitution; they turned him out of his canoe, and made him swim on shore, whilst they continued to trade with us. They sold us coco-nuts, excellent yams, bread fruit, bananas, shaddocks, and other fruit. They also brought purple water-hens6 alive, and a fine well-tasted sparus7ready dressed in leaves; also a curious stringy root baked, which contained a very nourishing pulp, of such a sweetness, as if it had been boiled in sugar. All these things were eagerly bought for nails, which were esteemed according to their size, and for pieces of our cloth. Their canoes, their persons, dress, customs and language so entirely resembled those of Tonga-Tabboo, that we could perceive no difference. As this island is at a short distance from Namoka, it is not improbable that the inhabitants of the latter might have heard of our arrival there in October, 1773.

[Monday 27.]The next morning captain Cook landed early in a sandy cove, which is accurately described by Tasman. It is enclosed by a reef, and has a narrow entrance for boats at the south end. It is so shallow, that our boats could only come in at high water. The captain purchased a pig, and was conducted to a pond of fresh water at a short distance from the beach, the same where Tasman had supplied his ships with water. The hospitality of the natives was exercised in its utmost extent, and one of the handsomest ladies of the island complimented the captain with an offer, which was not accepted. Having examined the watering-place, he returned on board to breakfast, and gave strict orders, that no person infected with or lately cured of venereal complaints should be suffered to go on shore, and that no woman should be admitted in the ship. A number of ladies came off in several canoes, and seemed very desirous of making acquaintance with our sailors; but after paddling about the ship for some time, they were obliged to return to the shore, very much discontented. Immediately after breakfast, Dr. Sparrman, my father and myself accompanied captain Cook to the shore, where a trade commenced for shaddocks and yams, which the natives sold us in prodigious quantities. Bananas and coco-nuts were scarce in proportion, and bread-fruit still more rare, though the trees of these sorts were very numerous. All the men went nearly naked, a slight covering on the loins excepted; a few of them, however, and most of the women, were drest from the waist to the ancles, in a piece of stiff painted cloth made of bark, wrapped several times round them, or in mats.

As soon as our boats reached the shore, the clamours of all those who had something to sell became so excessively loud, that we hastened into the country, whose aspect was very inviting. A considerable variety of plants covered the ground in wild luxuriance; and the great number of plantations of all sorts, made the whole island resemble a beautiful garden. The fences which had confined the view at Tonga-Tabboo, were here much less frequent, and only enclosed one side of the path, leaving the other open to the eye. The ground was not perfectly level in the interior parts, but rose in several little hillocks lined with hedges and bushes, which formed a most agreeable prospect. The path which we met with, sometimes went under long rows of lofty trees, planted at considerable distances, between which the ground was covered with the richest verdure; sometimes a thick and impenetrable arbour of fragrant shrubberies vaulted over it for a considerable space, and hid it entirely from the sun; sometimes plantations, and sometimes wilds appeared on both sides. The houses of the natives were of a singular structure:9 their height was about eight or nine feet; but the walls, which were not perpendicular, but converged towards the bottom, were not above three or four feet from the ground, and very neatly made of reeds. The roof converged into a ridge at the top; so that the section of the house resembled a pentagon. It was thatched, and the roof projected beyond the sloping walls of the house. In one of the long sides there was always an opening about two feet square, and eighteen inches from the ground, which served instead of a door. The length of the house never exceeded thirty feet, and the breadth was commonly eight or nine. The inside of these houses was always filled with large roots of yams, which seem to be the chief support of the natives. To sleep upon them must be extremely uncomfortable; and yet a few mats are only spread over them at night, which custom has made acceptable to these people. Those narrow little stools, on which the Taheitians rest the head, are extremely frequent here, and serve the same purpose. We also observed several open sheds, on a few posts, like some which we had seen at Tonga-Tabboo. These were laid out with mats, and seemed to be intended for their abode in the day-time. In our ramble we passed by a number of these habitations, but saw very few inhabitants, they being mostly at the trading place. Those whom we met were always very civil, and bowed their heads, saying, leleï (good), woä (friend), or some such word, to mark their good temper and disposition.10 They were our conductors; they brought us flowers from the highest trees, and birds out of the water; they often pointed out the finest plants to us, and taught us their names; we needed only to shew them a plant, of which we wished to have specimens, and they would go to any distance to procure it. Coco-nuts and shaddocks they readily offered to us; and willingly carried great loads for us; a nail, a bead, or even a small rag of cloth, being considered as a valuable present in return. In a word, they were on all occasions ready to oblige us.

In the course of our walk we found a large lake or lagoon of salt-water, at the north end of the island, which at one place reached within a few yards of the sea. It was about three miles long, and one wide. Three little islands full of trees, arranged in the most picturesque manner, served to ornament this fine piece of water, of which the shores also captivated the eye by their variety and beauty. The inverted landscape on the water,11 rendered this scene still more beautiful, especially as our point of view was an eminence, where many tall trees and thick shrubberies screened us from the sun.

No island, which we had hitherto visited, had offered so great variety of views to us in so small a space; nay, we had no where found such abundance of beautiful flowers, so agreeably contrasting their various tints, and mingling their sweet scents to perfume the air. The lake was full of wild-ducks, and the woods and shores abounded with pigeons, parroquets, rails, and small birds, which the natives brought for sale.

At noon we returned to the trading place, where captain Cook had purchased a great quantity of fruit and roots, a few fowls, and one or two small pigs. When we arrived on board, we found they had been equally successful there in the purchase of provisions. The whole poop was loaded with shaddocks, which we found a most delicious fruit, of excellent flavour; and of yams we had laid in such a quantity, that we eat of them every day for several weeks afterwards instead of biscuit. Arms and utensils, the usual articles of trade of these islanders, had likewise been plentifully sold, especially by several people who came in large double sailing canoes from the neighbouring islands. While we were at dinner, one of our shipmates was observed on shore, surrounded by a great croud of natives; but no further notice was taken of him, though he made signals for a boat. One of our trading boats, which was sent ashore as soon as the crew had dined, came near the place where he was stationed, and took him on board. It proved to be our surgeon, Mr. Patton, who had been in the most imminent danger of losing his life, by being carelessly left upon the island without support. From his account it is very plain, that even among these kind and well-disposed people, there were some villains who greatly resembled the wretches that infest our civilized countries. He had left the landing place, and engaging a single native in his service for a few beads, had rambled over great part of the island. His success in shooting was considerable; the native carried eleven ducks, with which he returned to the sandy cove. The boats having already left that place, he was something disconcerted, and the croud pressed about him, conscious that he was in their power. He walked therefore to the rocky shore, just abreast of the ship, where our people saw him. In going thither, the man who carried the ducks endeavoured to drop some of them; but Mr. Patton luckily turning about at that moment, he picked them up again. The croud now pressed close about him, and several of the men threatened him with jagged spears, whilst nothing but the appearance of his fowling-piece kept them in awe. Several women were set on by the men, to draw him off his guard, by a thousand lascivious gestures and attitudes; but his situation was of too serious a nature to permit him to attend to them. After some time a canoe arrived from the ship, and Mr. Patton agreed with the owner to carry him aboard for a nail, the last which he had left. Just as he was stepping into the canoe, they snatched his fowling-piece from him, took all his ducks except three, and sent away the canoe. He was greatly astonished and alarmed, and resolved to return to the top of the rock, where he expected to be more easily distinguished from the ship, from whence he hoped for assistance. The natives now laid aside all reserve, and began to pluck at his cloaths. He readily suffered them to snatch his cravat and handkerchief; but they also seized his coat, and resumed their threatening gestures with such violence, that he expected every moment would be his last. His anxiety and agony cannot well be painted. He put his hands in all his pockets to search for some instrument, a knife or the like, with which to defend himself; he found nothing but a wretched tooth-pick case; he opened it, and held it out upon the croud, who perceiving it hollow, instantly slew back to the distance of two or three yards: he continued to point this formidable weapon against the enemy, whose spears were still lifted against him. The meridian sun shone burning hot upon him; he had walked the whole day, was spent with fatigue, and began to despair of saving his life, when a handsome young woman, remarkable for her flowing curls, which hung down on her bosom, took pity on his wretched condition. She stepped forward from the croud, with the greatest humanity and compassion expressed in her eye; innocence and goodness were so strongly marked in her countenance, that it was impossible to distrust her. She approached, and offered him a piece of shaddock, which was eagerly and thankfully accepted; and gradually supplied him with more, till he had consumed the whole fruit. At last the boats put off from the ship, at sight of which the whole croud dispersed; only his generous benefactress, and an old man, who was her father, remained sitting near Mr. Patton, with that unconcern which a noble and virtuous conduct inspires. She enquired for the name of her friend; he told her that which the Taheitians had given him, Pateenee; and she immediately adopted it, changing it into Patseenee. On stepping into the boat, he gave her father and her a few presents, which he borrowed from the crew, and with these they returned to their groves highly pleased. When Mr. Patton came on board, he acquainted captain Cook with the danger to which he had been exposed; but though he had only followed the example of many of his shipmates, by reposing confidence in the natives, yet the loss of his fowling-piece was considered as a proper punishment for his imprudence. The afternoon was spent in different rambles on shore. My father, with a single sailor, walked over a considerable part of the island, without the least molestation from the inhabitants, and brought on board a number of new plants. No other complaints arose against the natives this day, except some petty thefts, at which they were expert like their brethren of Tonga-Tabboo and the Society Islands.

[Tuesday 28.]The next morning early we discovered several islands to the N. W. of us, which a haze in that quarter had hitherto screened from our sight. The two westermost were high, one peaked, but the other12 more extensive. A thick smoke arose from the last, on which, during the night, we had observed a fire. The natives who came on board acquainted us that this fire was constant, so that we concluded it to proceed from a volcano. They called this island Tofooa [209] Tasman calls it Ama-Tofoa in his map. Ama or kama probably signifies a mountain. , and the peak close to it e-Ghao [210] Tasman calls it Kaybay in his map. . To the northward of these two we discerned thirteen low islands, each of which the natives named to us.

We hastened ashore after breakfast, to resume our enquiries. We soon left the beach, where the natives were again assembled in great numbers of both sexes. A most beautiful kind of lily ( crinum asiaticum) was the first plant which we met with; and several others, not less valuable, were collected soon after. We came to the watering-place, which was a pond about a hundred or a hundred and fifty yards long, and fifty broad; it contained stagnant water, which was somewhat tainted with a brackish taste, and might perhaps have subterraneous communications with the salt lagoon, which in one place adjoined to it. Lieutenant Clerke, who superintended the waters, told us that his musket had been nimbly snatched away by one of the natives, who instantly ran off with it. We advanced to the salt lagoon, and botanized among the spacious mangroves which surrounded it. These trees occupy a vast space of ground, and grow more and more intricate by age. Their seeds do not drop off, but shoot down from the top of the tree, till they reach the ground, where they take root, and spread new branches. Whilst we were here, we heard three great guns fired; but the sound being broken by many intervening objects, we suspected that they were only muskets overcharged as usual, by some young gentlemen on a shooting party. We left the lake soon after, and passed through a plantation, where the natives bowed to us very kindly, and invited us to sit down amongst them. We were desirous of making the most of our time, and therefore soon left them, and returned to the fresh-water pond. Having fired a musket at some wild-ducks, which were in great plenty, we were called to by Mr. Gilbert, the master, who told us that a volley of small arms, and three cannon had been fired to alarm and bring us back, because a fray had happened between the natives and our people. We joined him in a few minutes, and found with him the captain, and a file of marines, together with two natives, who sat on their hams, and from time to time pronounced the word wòa, which signifies " friend" . We supposed that the theft of Mr. Clerke's musket had given occasion to this disturbance; but this was too trifling a circumstance to be resented. The cooper, in mending the water-cask, was not sufficiently attentive to his adze, and one of the natives had snatched it up, and conveyed it away. The captain, in order to recover this valuable instrument, of which however there were no less than a dozen in the ship, ordered his people to seize several large double canoes, which had probably arrived from different adjacent islands. They performed his command, and Mr. Clerke's gun was brought back by the astonished natives. But this was not sufficient, and another canoe was seized. A native, who stood upon it, defended his property, which he had forfeited by no offence, and took up a spear, which he seemed resolved to employ with good effect. Captain Cook levelled his musket at him, and bid him lay down his arms. He refused, and received a load of shot through his wrist and thigh, at the distance of eight or nine yards, which immediately brought him to the ground. The volley was now fired, and a boat sent off to the ship, where three canon, directed against the highest point of the island, were fired off one after another. It was thought that the natives would now have left us; but a great part still remained on the beach conscious of their innocence, and some canoes continued to ply about the ship. The behaviour of one of the natives upon this occasion was so remarkably stoical, that our people could not help taking notice of it. He had a small canoe in which he always met the other canoes before they reached the ship, took out what he liked, and paid their owners, a certain small price in European goods, which he had before obtained by barter. With his new cargo he returned to the ship, and always made a considerable profit upon his bargain. As he never failed to visit each canoe, our sailors called him a Custom-house officer. He was lying close to the ship, baling the water out of his canoe, when the guns were discharged not two yards over his head. Notwithstanding the extraordinary concussion at so short a distance, he never once looked up, but continued to bale, and afterwards to trade as if nothing had happened.

We had not long rejoined the captain and his party, when the unlucky adze was brought back, which had been the occasion of so much mischief. A middle-aged woman, who seemed to have great authority, had dispatched some of the people after it, and they returned at the same time a cartridge-box, and Mr. Patton's fowling-piece, which appeared to have been concealed under water. The wounded man was brought to us on a piece of wood carried by men. He seemed almost without sensation; and was set on the ground, whilst the natives gradually returned, and began to take courage. The women in particular, were very desirous of restoring the general tranquility, and their timid looks seemed to charge the behaviour of the strangers with cruelty. They seated themselves on a fine green turf, in a group of fifty or more together, and invited several of us to sit by them. Each of them had some shaddocks, which they broke in pieces, and distributed to us with every mark of kindness and peace. Mr. Patton's friend was one of the foremost, and indeed claimed the first rank among the beauties of those islands. Her stature was graceful, and her form exquisitely proportioned. Her features were more regular than any I had ever seen in these isles, full of sweetness and the charms of youth. Her large dark eyes sparkled with fire, and her ebony curls floated on her neck. She was of a lighter colour than the common people, and wore a brown cloth which closely embracing the body immediately under the breast, but being somewhat wider towards the feet, perhaps suited her better than the most elegant European dress.

Mr. Patton having been sent for, arrived with proper instruments, and dressed the wounds of the poor native, whose countrymen brought many banana leaves, which were laid on over the dressing. A bottle of brandy was given them, with directions to wash the wounds with the liquor from time to time. The wound was not dangerous, as it happened in a fleshy part; but as the distance was so short, the shot had torn the flesh very much, and made the wound very painful to the poor man. After this we distributed some beads, and departed making various signs of friendship. The natives like those of Tonga-Tabboo, were strangers to resentment, and continued to trade with our ship as before. They seemed to possess a truly mercantile spirit, and spared no trouble to obtain some of our goods or curiosities. Among the rest, they were much delighted with a great number of young puppies which we had taken on board at the Society Islands, on purpose to stock such islands as were not provided with them. We left two couple on Namoka, of which the natives promised to take particular care. These people managed their canoes with surprising agility, and swam with the greatest ease. Their common trading-canoes were neatly made, and polished like those which I have already described. But those of the neighbouring islands were of a great size, and some of them contained upwards of fifty people. They always consisted of two large canoes, fastened by a transverse platform of planks, in the midst of which they had erected a hut, where they placed their goods, their arms, and utensils, and where they passed a great part of their time. There were likewise holes, which gave admittance into the body of each canoe. Their masts were stout poles which could be struck at pleasure, and their sails were very large and triangular, but not very proper to sail by the wind. All their cordage was excellent, and they had also contrived a very good ground tackle, consisting of a strong rope with large stones at the end, by means of which they came to an anchor.13

We went on shore again after dinner, as captain Cook proposed leaving this island the next day. We passed through several fields and wild shrubberies, and collected a number of valuable plants. We also made a purchase of several arms, such as clubs, and spears, and of some utensils, viz. small stools, large wooden dishes and bowls, in which the people prepare their victuals, and some earthern pots which seemed to have been long in use. The great abundance of their arms, does not agree with their good-nature and hospitable disposition, unless they quarrel with their next neighbours, like the people of Taheitee and the Society Islands. But they seemed to have spent too much time in ornamenting their clubs, to have frequent occasion to use them.

At day-break the next morning we unmoored and set sail, standing towards the island of Tofooa, on which we had again observed the volcano burning during night. A whole fleet of canoes followed us several miles, trading with a variety of articles, particularly their dresses, utensils, and ornaments. Some of them likewise brought fish of different sorts, which we had found very well-tasted.

The island of Namoka, which we left after a stay of two days only, was not above fifteen miles in circuit, but seemed to be remarkably populous. It lies in 20° 17' S.14 and 174° 32' W. In the group of islands which appeared around it, its size was the most considerable; but all seemed to be well inhabited, and very rich in vegetable productions. They are situated on a kind of bank, on which there is from nine to sixty and seventy fathom water, and the soil is probably the same in every island. Namoka consists, like Tonga-Tabboo, of a coral-rock, covered with a rich mould on which all sorts of vegetables thrive. We had no time to examine the hillock in its centre, which seems to have had a different origin, and may perhaps be volcanic. At present it is wholly covered with the richest groves, like the rest of the island. The abundance of fresh water in the pond, is an advantage which the people of Namoka enjoy in preference to those of Tonga-Tabboo; but it does not appear that they bathe so regularly as the Taheitians, perhaps because the stagnant water is not very inviting. Its advantage is however so much felt, that the natives brought it to the ship in calabashes, and did the same to Tasman, which implies that it is looked upon as a valuable article among them. The abundance of water, and the richness of the soil likewise seems to be the reason, that bread-fruit and shaddock trees are much more frequent, and all vegetation infinitely more luxuriant than on Tonga-Tabboo. The fences on that account are not laid out, and kept up with that extreme regularity, though they are still preserved in part. The long walks of fruit-trees, and the delightful green turf under them, were rather to be compared to the richest spots on Ea-oowhe, or Middleburg Island. The tufted arbours which vaulted over the paths, are hung with beautiful flowers of all kinds, many of which filled the air with fragrance. The variety of scenes formed by many little risings, and different groups of houses and trees, together with the lagoons, conspire to adorn this island. The fowls and hogs which we saw in the neighbourhood of every dwelling, the prodigious number of shaddocks which lay under every tree, hardly noticed by the natives, and the quantities of yams which filled their houses, gave a picture of abundance and affluence which delighted the eye and comforted the heart. At sight of a plenteous prospect, human nature feels an instinctive satisfaction, and good humour and joy are soon revived in the most dejected breast. Amidst the dismal scenes of our voyage, these intervening moments are remarkably contrasted, and therefore had a great effect upon us. It is so natural to dwell upon pleasing subjects, that I hope, I need not apologize for my frequent descriptions; and I must refer the reader to Mr. Hodges's view in the interior parts of Namoka

The natives, who were happy enough to call these fertile groves their own, did not appear to me to differ in any respect from those of Tonga-Tabboo, and Ea-oowhe. Their stature was middle-sized, their colour a bright chestnut brown, and their whole body well-proportioned, without being corpulent. Their punctures, their dress, the customs of clipping the beard, and powdering the hair, their arms, utensils, and canoes, their language and manners were exactly such as we had noticed at Tonga-Tabboo. But in the short time which we staid on their island, we could not observe any subordination among them, though this had strongly characterised the natives of Tonga-Tabboo, who seemed to descend even to servility in their obeisance to their king. At Namoka we could not distinguish any persons of superior rank or authority, unless we except the man, whom our sailors called a Custom-house officer, and who inspected all the canoes which came to the ship.16 The woman who sent for the stolen things, appeared also to have some sway among them; and since there is reason to suppose, that women whose hair is allowed to grow long, have some prerogatives above the rest in the South Sea [211] See vol. I. p. 327. , Mr. Patton's friendly benefactress seems to have been a lady of a superior class, which her whole deportment confirmed. She was the only woman with long hair whom we saw on the island. I am far from concluding that the people of Namoka have no fixed government; on the contrary, their vicinity and similarity to other islanders, amongst whom a monarchical government takes place, and the example of all the other islanders of the South Sea which former navigators have examined, give the greatest room to suppose the same existing there. The general coincidence of their manners with those of Tonga-Tabboo, strongly prove that they have the same origin, and probably the same religious notions; but notwithstanding this agreement, I never found a fayetooka or burying-place, during my rambles upon Namoka, nor did any one of our shipmates meet with a place in any wise resembling the burying-place which we found at Tonga-Tabboo.

It appears, from the accounts of former voyagers, that between the meridians of 170° east from Greenwich, and 180°, there is a great number of islands, from the 10th to the 22d degree of latitude; all which, as far as they are known, seem to be inhabited by one race of people, who speak the same dialect of the South Sea tongue, and have the same social and mercantile disposition. All these then might be added to the Friendly Islands. They are in general remarkably well inhabited, particularly those which we visited. Tonga-Tabboo is almost one continual garden, and Ea-oowe, Namoka, and the adjacent islands, are some of the most fertile spots in the Pacific Ocean. We shall therefore be extremely moderate in our calculation, if we suppose the number of inhabitants in all these islands does not exceed 200,000 persons.17 Their healthy climate, and its excellent productions, keep them free from those numerous diseases, to which we fall an easy prey, and, according to their plain and simple notions, satisfy all their wants. Their progress in the arts, beyond other nations in the South Sea, and particularly their refinement in music, serve to pass away their time agreeably, and give them taste to acknowledge and discern the beauties of their own exquisite forms, from whence one of the strongest ties of society is derived. Their general turn is active and industrious, but their behaviour to strangers more polite than cordial. Their peculiar propensity to trade seems to have substituted this insincere civility, in the room of real friendship, from those interested and mercenary principles which commerce inspires. Both these characters are in direct opposition to those of the Taheitians, who delight in an indolent life, and are too hearty in their affections to confine them to outward shew and specious appearances. However there are many luxurious individuals (arreoys) at the Society Islands, whose moral character appears to be somewhat depraved; whilst the people of the Friendly Islands seem to be ignorant of vices, which can only have arisen from a superior degree of opulence.

The canoes which accompanied us from Namoka returned at noon to several low islands, all which seemed to be well inhabited and fertile, like so many beautiful gardens. After dinner the wind became contrary, and abated, so that we rather lost than gained ground. A few canoes came up with us again, for the natives spared no labour to obtain our nails and rags of cloth. Towards evening we were surrounded by a little fleet, and the trade was very brisk, chiefly for the utensils and arms of the islanders, which are made with remarkable neatness.

[Thursday 30.]The canoes returned once more to us the next morning, putting off at day-break from all the little islands in sight. Their appearance and their sailing afforded us much entertainment. Before the wind they go extremely swift, being well contrived for that purpose, and their broad triangular sail gives them a very picturesque form at a distance. We left them in a short time, when the breeze freshened, and sailed towards the two high islands, which we had discovered whilst we lay at anchor. In the afternoon three canoes came up with us again; and one of them, with 50 men on board, traded with us just as we were in the narrow passage between both islands. The larger, to the southward, which is called Tofoòa, appeared to be inhabited. Some of the natives on board our ship told us it had fresh water, together with coco-nut, banana, and bread-fruit trees. We saw indeed a number of palms, and a great quantity of the club-wood.18 The whole island, though steep, was in some places covered with verdure or shrubbery. Towards the sea, and especially towards the other island, the rocks seemed burnt, and black sand covered the shore. We approached within a cable's length of it, but found a depth of eighty fathom, which prevented our coming to an anchor. The rocks towards the passage, which was not above a mile across, were cavernous, and in some places had a rude columnar shape. The day was somewhat hazy, and the top of the island was therefore covered with clouds. The smoke however rolled up with impetuosity, and seemed, before we had passed the strait, to issue from the other side of the mountain. As soon as we had passed it, it appeared to arise from the side which we had just left. This deception proves, that the top of the mountain was hollow, or formed a crater, from whence the vapour was thrown up. There was a spot on the N. W. side of the island, somewhat below the place where we saw the smoke come out, which had the appearance of being lately burnt: it was destitute of verdure, though the mountain on both sides of it was covered with various plants. When we came exactly into the line in which the smoke was carried by the wind, we had a small shower of rain, and many of us felt it very biting and sharp, when it dropped into our eyes. It is probable from thence, that it carried down with it some particles which the volcano had ejected. The wind being at S. S. E. and freshening, we left this island, without being able to make any farther observations upon it; though it well deserved the attention of the learned, who make the revolutions which our globe has undergone, the object of their useful and curious enquiries.

[1774. July.][Friday 1.]We sailed to the W. S. W. and continued the same course all the next day. The following day, very near noon, we discovered land, which, from the direction of our track, had never been seen by other navigators. We ran toward it, and before night approached pretty near it; but found breakers before us, which obliged us to tack all night, for fear of an accident. Several lights which appeared on shore as soon as it was dark, announced to us that the island was inhabited.

[Sunday 3.]The next morning we bore down upon it again, and came round its east end. It appeared to be about seven miles long,19 and had two small hills of very gentle ascent, wholly covered with woods, like the rest of the island. One end sloped into a flat point, on which we observed fine groves of coco-palms, and fruit-trees,20 together with houses in their shade. A fine sandy beach surrounded the shore, and at the distance of half a mile, a coral reef encompassed the east side of the island, which at the points projected near two miles from the shore. On this reef we soon perceived five blackish-brown men, with clubs in their hands, looking at us very attentively. We hoisted a boat out, and sent the master to sound an opening between the reefs which we saw before us. He went on through the entrance towards the shore, where we observed upwards of thirty inhabitants sitting. Amongst them ten or twelve were armed with spears; but as soon as our boat came near, they hauled a canoe into the woods, which had brought their five men to and from the reef, and all ran off when the master landed. He laid some nails, a knife, and a few medals on the sandy beach, and returned on board, to acquaint the captain that there was no bottom in the entrance of the reef, and not sufficient depth within it. He had observed a dozen or more large turtles swimming in the harbour; but being destitute of harpoons, or other instruments, could not strike any of them. Our boat was hoisted in again, and the hopes of botanizing on this island were entirely frustrated. We continued standing along its reef, on which we observed some large single rocks of coral, near fifteen feet above the surface of the water, narrow at the base, and spreading out at the top. Whether an earthquake had raised them so high out of the sea, in which they must have been formed, or whether some other cause ought to be assigned for this curious fact, remains to be determined.

A few miles to the westward of the island we found a great circular reef of coral, including a lagoon. It was suspected that this lagoon might be the abode of turtles, and two boats were hoisted out in the afternoon to go in quest of them. The fishery proved very unsuccessful, not a single turtle being seen, and the crew hoisted the boats in again before sunset. We then left this new discovery, which was named Turtle Island, and is situated in 19° 48' S. and 178° 2' W.21

We ran to the W. S. W. with a fresh trade-wind by day, but tacked every night. No birds attended us on this course, except now and then a white booby, or a man of war bird. The fair weather, the yams of Namoka, and the hope of making new discoveries in this part of the Pacific Ocean, which had never been visited before, kept us all in very good spirits.

[Saturday 9.]On the 9th of July, having reached nearly 176° E. and being in 20° S. we changed our course to the N. W. Our fresh gale continued without any change till the 13th, [Wednesd. 13.]when it was somewhat abated, and a few drops of rain fell both at night and in the morning. The second anniversary of our departure from England, which happened on this day, was celebrated by the sailors with their usual mirth. They drank plentifully, having saved a part of their daily allowance, for this solemn occasion, and drowned every gloomy idea in grog, the mariner's Lethe. One of them, of a fanatical22 turn, composed a hymn on the occasion, as he had done the first year; and after seriously exhorting his fellows to repentance, sat down and hugged the bottle heartily; but like all the rest, he proved unequal to the conflict, and sunk under the powerful influence of his adversary.

The wind freshened very much the two following days, and on the third the weather became hazy, with showers of rain. A calabash, which we observed drifting past the ship, seemed to indicate the near approach of land; and indeed a few hours after, about two o'clock in the afternoon, on the [Saturday 16.]16th, we made it out at a little distance before us, being high, and of considerable extent. The gale encreased towards night, and the ship rolled very much; the rains were incessant at the same time, and coming through the decks into our cabins, thoroughly soaked our books, cloaths, and beds, depriving us of rest. The same heavy gales, with bad weather, continued all the next day, and so involved the land in clouds, that we could scarce discern it, but were forced to stand off and on. This weather was the more disagreeable, as it was unexpected in a sea, which has always been termed Pacific. It proves, that no entire reliance may be had upon general denominations; and, that though storms and hurricanes are perhaps very seldom felt in this ocean, yet it is not wholly free from them. Its western part is particularly known for strong gales. When captain Pedro Fernandez de Quiros left his Tierra del Espiritù Santo; when M. de Bougainville was on the coast of the Louisiade; and when captain Cook, in the Endeavour, explored the eastern coast of New Holland, each of them met with stormy weather. Perhaps it may be owing to the large lands which are situated in this part of the ocean; at least it is known, that the stated winds of the torrid zone become variable in the neighbourhood of high and extensive coasts.

The weather was a little clearer the next morning, so that we could venture to run in shore. We distinguished two islands, which were the Whitsun and Aurora Islandsof M. de Bougainville, and ran for the northern extremity of the latter.

[Monday 18.]Thus, after spending two years in visiting the discoveries of former voyagers, in rectifying their mistakes, and in combating vulgar errors, we began the third, by investigating a group of islands which the French navigator, pressed by necessity, and ill fitted out, had left with precipitation. It was reserved for this last year to teem in new discoveries, and to make amends for the two first. We had, it is true, no reason to complain, since most of the countries we had visited, were scarcely known to the world, from the vague and unphilosophical accounts of the discoverers. We had room to make a variety of observations on men and manners, which, though they ought to be the first objects of travellers, have still been postponed, even by those who have aimed at being looked upon by the world as the most enlightened. But, as mankind are ever captivated by the charms of novelty, the history of our transactions, during the ensuing months, will have that advantage at least to recommend it to their attention.

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E N D O F T H E S E C O N D B O O K.

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A VOYAGE round the WORLD.

BOOK III.

CHAP. I.

An account of our stay at Mallicollo, and discovery of the New Hebrides.

[1774. July.]WE reached the north-point of Aurora island at eight in the morning [Monday 18.]on the 18th of July, and passing very close to it, observed vast numbers of coco-nut-palms on all parts of it, not excepting the high ridges of the island. The whole, as far as a thick haze permitted us to see, was clad in thick forests which had a pleasing, but wild appearance. My father had a momentaneous glimpse of a small rocky peak to the northward, which M. Bougainville calls Pic de l'Etoile, or Pic d'Averdi; but the clouds which moved with great velocity soon involved it. By the help of glasses some natives were seen on Aurora, and as we approached nearer, we heard them calling to one another. Having passed the north end of Aurora, we stood to the southward along its western coast, as far as the wind would permit, which blew more southerly than easterly. We had only this advantage, that being sheltered by the land on all sides, the water was remarkably smooth, though the gale continued. The island which M. de Bougainville named the Isle of Lepers, was right a-head of us, and we passed the day in tacking between it and Aurora. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we approached within a mile and a half of the former, and in spite of the clouds which rested on its heights, saw so much of the lower grounds, that we had reason to think it a very fertile island. The place where we approached it was very steep, nor could we find bottom with one hundred and twenty fathoms. However, the north-east point was lower, and covered with all sorts of trees. The palms in particular were innumerable, and to our surprize grew on the hills, where we had never seen them in other islands. Several considerable cascades rushed down the precipices into the sea, amidst shrubberies which formed as rich an ornament as in the landscapes of Dusky Bay. Having put about, we observed a turtle sleeping on the water, which the violence of the wind did not seem to affect. We tacked all night in order to gain to the southward, being desirous of passing between the Isle of Lepers and Aurora. We came close under the former again [Tuesday 19.]at eight in the morning. Having put about, a small canoe ventured out with a single in it. We made a short trip, and returned towards the shore, where three men in another canoe were preparing to come to us. Several people sat on the rocks and projecting bluff points. Some were blackened from the head downwards, as far as the breast; they had something white on their heads, but went naked, with a rope about the waist. Only one of them had a cloth across one shoulder, which came under the opposite arm like a scarf, and then round his loins; it seemed to be of a dirty white with a reddish border. All these people were of a dark brown colour, and armed with bows and long arrows. Those who came off in canoes, came very near us, talking loud and unintelligibly5 for some time, but constantly refused to come on board. Having been obliged to put about the ship, they left us, and returned to their countrymen on shore. In several places we observed reeds like hurdles, standing up between the rocks, which seemed to be so placed in order to catch fish.

We now approached the isle of Aurora, where we observed a fine beach, and the most luxuriant vegetation that can be conceived. The whole country was woody; numberless climbers ran up the highest trees, and forming garlands and festoons between them, embellished the scene. A neat plantation fenced with reeds, stood on the slope of the hill, and a beautiful cascade poured down through the adjacent forest. About two o'clock three canoes came off from the island of Aurora, when we were close in shore, but as we could not stay for them, they returned like those of Lepers Island. The island of Aurora is about twelve leagues long, but not above five miles broad in any part, lying nearly north and south. The middle is in 15° 6' S. and 168° 24' E. Its mountain or ridge is sharp, and of considerable height. Whitsun Island, which lies about four miles to the south of it, runs in the same direction, and is of the same length, but appears to be somewhat broader at its northern extremity. Its middle lies in 15° 45' S. and in 168° 28' east longitude. The Isle of Lepers is almost as large as Aurora, but of greater breadth, and its situation is nearly east and west; the middle lies in 15° 20' south, and 168° 3' east.

Whitsun Island, as well as the Isle of Lepers, having more sloping exposures than Aurora, appear to be better inhabited, and to contain more plantations. At night we observed many fires on them, particularly the first, where they extended to the tops of the hills. This circumstance seems to prove, that they live in great measure on agriculture; and since they have but few canoes, and their shores very steep, fishing does not seem to employ them so much as other islanders.

[Wednesd. 20.]The island which M. de Bougainville has placed to the southward of Whitsun Island, came in sight the next morning, but was still so much involved in clouds, that we could not distinguish its form or height. We passed all that day in working to windward, which we performed with better success, as the gale had a little abated.

[Thursday 21.]The next morning we had moderate and fair weather, and saw M. de Bougainville's southern island very distinctly. There was a passage between it and the south end of Whitsun Island, about six miles in breadth. A long low point extended from this southern island to the eastward; and all its north side, though steep towards the sea, rose from thence with a gentle and gradual ascent to the highest mountains in the centre. In the mountains, which were still covered with clouds, we observed some volumes, as it appeared, of smoke, which indicated a volcano. This island is about seven leagues in length, and its middle lies in 16° 15' S. and 168° 20' E.

Later in the day we discovered land to the westward, which proved to be the south-westernmost land seen by M. de Bougainville. We advanced towards it, overjoyed with the variety of new islands which presented themselves to our view. Having reached the N. W. end of the former island, on which we suspected a volcano, we were convinced of its existence, by columns of white smoke, which rolled up with great violence from the summit of an inland mountain.10 The whole south-west coast of this island sloped into a very fine and extensive plain, on which innumerable smokes arose, between the richest groves which our eyes had beheld since our departure from Taheitee. The populousness of the country was strongly evinced by its fertile appearance, and by the number of fires.11 We opened two other islands to the south-eastward, after passing the west end of this land, one of which was a very high peak, which looked like a volcanic mountain. Another island, with three high hills, also appeared to the south, at a great distance. The western land, towards which we sailed, was not less beautiful than that which we left. Its groves had the richest tints of verdure, and coco-palms were scattered between them in vast numbers. The mountains rose far inland, and before them lay several lower grounds, all covered with woods, and bounded by a fine beach. At noon we came close in shore, and saw many natives wading into the water to the waist, having clubs in their hands, but waving green boughs, the universal signs of peace.12 One of them had a spear, and another a bow and arrows. Contrary to their expectations, and perhaps their wishes, we put about again. However after dinner two boats were hoisted out, and sent to sound in a little harbour, which we observed from the ship. The whole south point of this little bay, which was bounded by a coral reef, was lined by several hundred inhabitants, of whom a few ventured out in their canoes towards the ship and the boats. They did not approach near the ship whilst she staid out at sea; but the boats having made the signal for good anchorage, we came in after them, into a narrow harbour, with reefs at the entrance, but which seemed to go inland to a considerable distance. Our boats returned on board, and the officer acquainted the captain, that the natives had come within a few yards in their canoes, but had not offered the least insult; on the contrary, they had waved green boughs, and dipping their hands into salt water, had poured it on their heads.13 This compliment our officer returned, much to their satisfaction, it being probably a sign of friendship. They now approached the ship in their canoes, waving green plants, particularly the leaves of the dracùna terminalis, and of a beautiful croton variegatum, and repeating the word Tomarr or Tomarro continually, which seemed to be an expression equivalent to the Taheitian Tayo (friend).14 The greater part of them were however armed with bows and arrows, and a few with spears; being thus prepared, at all events, both for peace and war. By degrees they ventured near the ship, and received a few pieces of Taheitee cloth, which they eagerly accepted. Presently they handed up some of their arrows in exchange; at first such as were pointed with wood only, but soon after even such as were armed with points of bone, and daubed with a black gummy stuff, on which account we suspected them to be poisoned.15 A young Taheitian puppy was therefore wounded in the leg with one of these arrows, to try its effect; but we perceived no dangerous symptoms.

The language of these people was so utterly different from all the South Sea dialects which we had hitherto heard, that we could not understand a single word of it. It was much harsher than any of them, and the r, s, ch, and other consonants abounded in it. The people themselves differed from any that we had hitherto seen. They were all remarkably slender, and in general did not exceed five feet four inches in height. Their limbs were often indifferently proportioned, their legs and arms long and slim, their colour a blackish brown, and their hair black, frizzled and woolly. Their features were more extraordinary than all the rest. They had a flat broad nose and projecting cheek-bones of a Negroe, and a very short forehead, which had sometimes an unusual direction, being something more depressed than in well-formed men. Many of them were besides this painted with a black colour in the face and over the breast, which disfigured them more than their natural ugliness. A few had a small cap on the head, made of matted work, but all went stark naked, and tied a rope so fast round their belly, that it made a deep notch. Most other nations invent some kind of covering, from motives of shame; but here a roll of cloth continually fastened to the belt, rather displays than conceals, and is the very opposite of modesty.16

They continued about the ship, talking with great vociferation, but at the same time in such a good-humoured manner, that we were much entertained. We had no sooner looked at one of them, that he began to chatter without reserve, and grinned almost like Milton's Death. This circumstance, together with their slender form, their ugly features, and their black colour, often provoked us to make an ill-natured comparison between them and monkies. We should be sorry, however, to supply Rousseau, or the superficial philosophers who re-echo his maxims, with the shadow of an argument in favour of the Orang-outang system.17 We rather pity than despite these men, who can so far forget and abuse their own intellectual faculties, as to degrade themselves to the rank of baboons.

When it was dark the natives returned on shore, where they made a number of fires, and were heard speaking as loud among themselves as they had done to us. About eight, however, they all returned to the ship in their canoes, with burning firebrands, in order to have another conversation. On their part they carried it on with surprising spirit, but we did not reply with equal volubility. The evening was very fine and calm, and the moon shone out at times. Seeing that we were not so talkative as themselves, they offered to sell us their arrows and other trifles;18 but captain Cook prohibited the trade, in order to get rid of them. We were surprised with their behaviour, it being unusual to see any Indians awake and active about the ship after sunset. Some though they only came as spies, to see whether we were upon our guard; but their inoffensive behaviour seemed to free them from this suspicion. When they found us resolved not to barter with them, they retreated to the shore towards midnight. We heard them singing and beating their drums all night, and could observe them sometimes dancing; so that we concluded they were of a very chearful disposition.

[Friday 22.]They gave us very little respite in the morning. At day-break they came off in their canoes, and began to call to us, frequently intermixing the word Tomarr in their noisy speeches. Four or five of them came on board the ship without any arms: they soon became familiar, and with the greatest ease climbed up the shrouds to the mast-head. When they came down again, the captain took them into his cabin, and gave them presents of medals, ribbons, nails, and pieces of red baize. They were the most intelligent people we had ever met with in the South Seas;19 they understood our signs and gestures, as if they had been long acquainted with them, and in a few minutes taught us a greater number of their words. Their language was really as we had immediately suspected, wholly distinct from that general language, of which several dialects are spoken at the Society Isles, the Marquesas, the Friendly Isles, the Low Islands, Easter Island, and New Zeeland. It was not difficult to pronounce, but contained more consonants than any of the dialects here mentioned. The most singular sound was a shaking or vibration of brrr together. Thus, for instance, one of our friends, was called Mambrrùm, and the other Bonombrrooàï. Whatever they saw, they coveted; but they never repined at a refusal. The looking-glasses which we gave them were particularly admired, and they took great pleasure in looking at themselves; so that these ugly people seemed to have more self-conceit, than the beautiful nation at Taheitee and the Society Islands.20 They had perforated ears, and a hole in the septum narium,21 into which they put a bit of stick, or two little pieces of white selenite or alabaster, which are tied together in an obtuse angle. On the upper arm they wore bracelets, very neatly wrought, of small pieces of black and white shells.22 These bracelets fitted so closely, that it was plain they had been put on whilst their owners were young; for at present it was quite impossible to draw them over the elbow. Their skins were very soft and smooth, and of a sooty or blackish-brown colour, which was heightened by black paint in the face.23 Their hair was frizzled, and woolly to the touch, though not of the softest. Their beards were frizzled, but not woolly, and well furnished with hair. They had no punctures on their body, but indeed they could not have been seen on their black skin at any considerable distance. Mr. Hodges took an opportunity of drawing their portraits, one of which has been engraved for captain Cook's account of the voyage. It is very characteristic of the nation; but we must lament, that a defect in the drawing, has made it necessary to infringe the costume, and to throw a drapery over the shoulder, though these people have no kind of cloathing.24 They were easily persuaded to sit for their portraits, and seemed to have an idea of the representations.

We were deeply engaged in conversation with them, and they seemed happy beyond measure, when the first lieutenant came into the cabin. He acquainted captain Cook that one of the natives having been denied admittance into the ship, which was by this time crouded with them, had pointed his arrow at the sailor in our boat, who pushed back his canoe. Before he had done speaking, our acute natives guessed his errand, and having before observed the windows open, one of them instantly jumped out, and swam to his outrageous countryman to hold his hands. The captain went upon deck presently, and took up a musket, which he pointed at the native, who persisted in his attitude in spite of his fellows. Seeing that captain Cook had levelled at him, he also pointed his arrows at him. At this moment, the rest of the natives around the ship called to those in the cabin; these fearing the worst consequences from the violence of their countryman, hurried out of the windows, notwithstanding all our endeavours to quiet their apprehensions.25 We heard a musket fired off the instant after, and repairing on deck, saw the native who had received some small shot, very deliberately laying by his arrow, which was only pointed with wood, and selecting one of those which we believed to be poisoned. As soon as he had taken aim, the third lieutenant fired at him again; the small shot which he received in his face, obliged him to give up all thoughts of fighting, and he paddled quickly towards the shore. At the same moment an arrow was shot off from the other side of the ship, which fell in the mizen shrouds. A ball was fired after the native who sent it to us, but luckily without effect. Every canoe now moved gradually towards the shore, and all who were on board flung themselves into the sea; one in particular, who was at the mast-head when the fray began, not thinking of any harm, came down with the greatest precipitation when the muskets went off. To terrify these people, and to give them a specimen of our power, a cannon was fired over their heads among the trees on shore. This accelerated their retreat; the nearest to us jumped out of their canoes in a fright, and all reached the shore in great confusion. Presently their drums began to beat in different parts, to give the alarm, and the poor fellows were seen running along shore, and huddling under the bushes together, in close consultation on this alarming crisis of their affairs. In the mean while we went quietly to breakfast.

At nine o'clock some canoes again made their appearance, rowing round the ship, and very cautiously coming nearer. We waved to them with a branch of the dracœna terminalis, which we had before received; and after they had dipped their hands in the sea, and put them on their heads, they received a few presents which captain Cook gave them, and went away to the shore.26 Two of our boats were now manned, and a party of marines embarked with the captain, my father, Dr. Sparrman, myself, and several others. A reef bounded the shore at the distance of thirty yards or more. It was so shallow, that we were forced to step out, and wade to the beach, where our marines formed without opposition. We were received by a croud of no less than three hundred persons, all armed,27 but very friendly and inoffensive in their behaviour towards us. A middle-aged man, rather stronger than the generality of the people, gave away his bow and quiver to another, and came unarmed to shake hands with us, in sign of peace and amity; he was perhaps a chief among them. A pig was brought at the same time, and presented to the captain, apparently as a kind of expiation for their countryman's ill behaviour; but perhaps it was only a ratification of the peace which we had concluded.28 This interview is represented in a fine plate, designed by Mr. Hodges and engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage.29 After we had received the pig, we expressed by signs that we wanted wood, and they immediately pointed out some trees which grew close to the beach, which we cut down, and sawed in pieces. The beach did not exceed fifteen yards in breadth; and our situation was very precarious in case of an attack. The marines therefore drew a line before them, which the natives were desired not to transgress. They readily complied with this regulation; but their numbers encreased from all parts continually. They were all armed with bows ready strung, made of a tough dark-brown wood, finer than mahogany; and with arrows, which they held in a cylindrical quiver, formed of leaves. All these arrows were made of reeds about two feet long; those of the common sort had a point about a foot or fifteen inches long, consisting of a polished jetty black wood, like ebony, but excessively brittle;30 the rest, which were kept in quivers, were all pointed with a short bit of bone, two or three inches long. This was inserted in a notch of the reed, which was again curiously and firmly united together by means of single coco-nut fibres, wound across each other, so as to form little rhomboidal compartments, about 1/20 of an inch square, which were filled up with minute attention, alternately with a reddish, green, and white earthy colour. The point of bone itself was very sharp, and smeared, with a black resinous substance.

We left our lines, and walked over amongst the natives, who conversed with us, and with great good-will sat down on the stump of a tree to teach us their language. They were surprised at our readiness to remember, and seemed to spend some time in pondering how it was possible to preserve the sound by such means as pencil and paper. They were not only assiduous in teaching, but had curiosity enough to learn our language, which they pronounced with such accuracy, that we had reason to admire their extensive faculties and quick apprehension. Observing their organs of speech to be so flexible, we tried the most difficult sounds in the European languages; nay, we had recourse to the compound Russian shtch, all which they pronounced at the first hearing, without the least difficulty.31 We presently taught them our numerals, which they repeated rapidly on their fingers; in short, what they wanted in personal attraction, was amply made up in acuteness of understanding. We began to trade with them for their arms, but they were at first very loth to exchange them; however, a handkerchief, or piece of Taheitee cloth, or English frieze, was of some value among them. They began to sell their common arrows, and afterwards those which were poisoned; but advised us not to try the points against our fingers, making us understand, by the plainest signs, that with a common arrow, a man might be shot through the arm without dying, but that the slightest scratch with one of the other sort was mortal. If notwithstanding this information, we attempted to bring the point on our fingers, they caught hold of our arm, with the most friendly gesture, to save us, as it were, from imminent danger.32 Besides bows and arrows, they wore a club of the casuarina-wood, which hung on their right shoulder, from a thick rope, made of a kind of grass.33 This club was commonly knobbed at one end, and very well polished, like all their manufactures. It did not exceed two feet and a half in length, and appeared to be reserved for close engagement, after emptying the quiver. On the left wrist, they wore a circular wooden plate neatly covered, and joined with straw, about five inches in diameter, upon which they broke the violence of the recoiling bow-string, and prevented it from hurting their arms. This kind of ruffle, and their ornaments, such as the bracelets above mentioned, piece of shell cut in form of large rings, which were also worn on the arm, the stone in their nose, and the shell which hung on their breast, suspended by a string round the neck, they at this time refused to sell.

We observed no new plants on the borders of the beach where our people cut down trees; but the country within looked very tempting, being one great forest. Dr. Sparrman, and myself, observing a path which ascended into the wood behind some bushes, went in unnoticed, and advanced about twenty yards, where we fortunately found two fine new plants. But we had scarcely made this valuable acquisition, when some of the natives appeared coming from the country, who at sight of us stopped, and made repeated signs to us to return to the beach.34 We beckoned to them, and shewed them the plants which we had collected, intimating as well as our gestures could express it, that we had come for no other purpose. This pretence availed us nothing; and as they continued to call us out of the wood, we complied for fear of raising a new disturbance. The wood which we had thus suddenly quitted, was very dark and interspersed with bushes. However, a broad mass of light in the interior parts, seemed to indicate a plantation, which we should have reached, if we had not been too early interrupted. The various voices of women and children, which issued from that spot confirmed our conjecture. The trees which grew in the wood, were in general of well known sorts; but among the under-woods there appeared several sorts hitherto unnoticed. From the ship however, we had perceived vast numbers of coco-palms, some bananas, bread-fruit, and other valuable cultivated trees, of which the natives had given us the names.

Captain Cook having in the mean while, asked for fresh water, the person whom we supposed to be a chief, sent for a calabash full, which was very pure, and also presented the captain with a coco-nut; but in spite of all our enquiries, we could not prevail upon the natives to bring us any more. A few of them wore a small bunch of greens on their arm, which we knew to be part of an odoriferous plant of a new genus, named euodia (Forst. Nov. Gen.). Some suffered us to take and examine it, but others took it out of our hands and threw it away, with an angry expression, as if it was either noxious or ominous. We had frequently eaten the seeds of this plant, which are finely aromatic, without suffering the least inconvenience, and were well convinced, that the whole plant was very harmless; but whether it might not be a sign of enmity or defiance, in the same manner as many others are esteemed emblems of friendship, must remain in doubt.

The tide was now so low, that the reef remained quite dry behind us, and a great number of the natives had walked over it to our boats, where they traded with the crew. Being in some measure surrounded by these people, the marines were placed alternately towards the shore and the sea, in order to present a front both ways; though it did not appear that the natives had the least intention of quarrelling with us. We conversed very freely with them, and their tongues ran on with such unremitted volubility, that we compared the noise about us, to the confused uproar in a great fair. Our astonishment therefore, may sooner be conceived than described, when this chattering ceased all at once, and a dead silence succeeded. __We looked at each other, we threw our eyes wildly about, and joined the wings of our corps de garde. The natives seemed to stand in expectation of some mischance; but by degrees seeing us quiet, they began to talk again, and in a few minutes, mutual confidence was restored. This circumstance which had given rise to this alarm was trifling in itself, but expressed the good disposition of the natives towards us. One of our boat's crew, had desired a native to shoot an arrow into the air as high as he could. The man very readily complied, and had drawn his bow, when some of his countrymen, recollecting that we might look upon this as an infringement of the peace, called out to him to stop, and alarmed all the people on the beach, by pronouncing a few words, which immediately produced universal silence, expressing extreme jealousy35 in a most dreadful manner, and affording a proper subject to exercise the talents of painters and poets. Affrighted countenances, full of anxiety and horrid suspense; many a wild stare, many a gloomy, mischievous look, and some undaunted steady glances; an infinite variety of attitudes; a characteristic difference in the manner of handling the arms; the scene, the groups of inhabitants, &c. all conspired to furnish the proper requisites for a good picture.

As soon as this alarm was over, our wood-cutters resumed their occupations, and the natives admired their skill. A few women now likewise came to our lines, but remained at some distance. They were of small stature, and had the most disagreeable features which we had observed in the South Sea. Those who were grown up, and probably married, had short pieces of a kind of cloth, or rather matting round their waists, reaching nearly to the knees; the rest had only a string round the middle with a whisp of straw; and the younger ones, from infancy to the age of ten years, went stark naked, like the boys of the same age. Some of these women had covered their heads with the orange powder of turmeric-root; some had daubed their face, and others their whole body with this colour, which on their dark skins had a most filthy effect. But with their countrymen it is probably esteemed an ornament, as the taste of mankind is astonishingly various. We did not observe, that these women had any finery in their ears, round their neck, or arms; for it seems it is fashionable in the island, only for the men to adorn themselves. Wherever that is the case, the sex is commonly oppressed, despised, and in a deplorable situation.36 They were seen with bundles on their backs, which contained their children, and had a most miserable appearance. The men seemed to have no kind of regard for them, would not permit them to come nearer; and as oft as we went towards them, the women ran away.

About noon a great part of the croud dispersed, probably to take their dinner. Captain Cook received an invitation from the chief, to accompany him to his dwelling in the woods, but declined it; and having continued on shore till one o'clock, we all re-imbarked in the best order, without any molestation from the natives, who remained on the beach till we were on board. M. de Bougainville had not been so fortunate at the Isle of Lepers; the natives were very friendly to appearance, till all his men were embarked; but a flight of arrows was then sent after them, and revenged by a volley of musketry, which killed several natives. As these islanders live in sight of each other, and M. de Bougainville's visit was so recent, the natives with whom we had to deal, were probably apprised of the power of Europeans, and therefore acted with caution.

Immediately after dinner, captain Cook and my father went ashore on the north side of the harbour, in quest of our buoy, which the natives had conveyed thither, and which we saw on the beach by the help of our glasses. In the mean time the southern shore, on which we had landed in the morning, was entirely clear of the natives; but in the woods we heard the frequent squeaking of pigs, from whence it may be concluded that the natives possess great numbers of these animals.37 Soon after our boat's departure, several natives in their canoes came alongside to trade with us. They readily sold us their bows and arrows, clubs and spears, for old rags and other trifles, plying between the ship and the shore all the evening.38 Their canoes were small, not exceeding twenty feet in length, of indifferent workmanship, and without ornament, but provided with an outrigger. The number which came to the ship never amounted to more than fourteen, which seems to confirm that these people are no great fishermen.

Our boat returned before sunset, with the buoy which they had taken as soon as they landed, without any opposition on the part of the natives. Some trifling appendages to it were lost, but these could easily be replaced. The inhabitants of that part traded with the captain and his company, selling their arms and ornaments for various trifles of no intrinsic worth. An old woman parted with two semi-transparent bits of selenites, cut into a conical shape, and connected at the pointed ends, by means of a ribbon made of leaves.39 The diameter of the broad end was about half an inch, and the length of each bit three quarters of an inch. She took it out of the hole in the cartilage of her nose, which was very broad, ugly, and smeared with black paint. Our people took great pains to obtain refreshments from the natives; but notwithstanding all their signs, they did not bring a single article of food.40 Our goods, no doubt, did not seem valuable enough in their eyes, to be considered as an equivalent to eatables, which are always the real riches of mankind. Upon this plain principle the people of the South Sea always acted; and from the value which they put on our goods, after they were acquainted with their uses, we can with a degree of certainty judge of their opulence, or the fertility of their country. From hence they still proceeded northward, towards the exterior point of the harbour. Here they found some bananas, bread-fruit trees, coco-palms, and other plants, separated by an enclosure; and near them some dwellings of the natives, wretched hovels, of an inconsiderable size, and so low that they could hardly stand upright in them. They consisted of a roof thatched with palm-leaves, resting on a few posts. Here however they observed a great many hogs, and some common poultry. The natives seemed to be convinced that our people had no sinister intentions, and expressed much less curiosity than in the morning. Their numbers were inconsiderable in this place; and though they did not entirely approve of captain Cook's visit to their houses, they did not oppose it with perseverance.41 From hence our gentlemen proceeded farther towards the point, till they came in sight of the three islands to the eastward, of which they learnt the names. The largest, on which we had observed the volcano, was called Ambrrym, the high peek Pa-oòm, and the southernmost Apèe. This good success encouraged them to point to the land on which they stood, and to enquire of the natives by what name that was distinguished. The name of Mallicollo, which they immediately received in answer, was so strikingly similar to Manicolo, which captain Quiros had received and preserved above 160 years ago, that they rejoiced to obtain such indisputable proof of his veracity.42 It appears from Quiros's account, that he never visited Mallicollo himself, but only received intelligence of it from the natives; however, that his Tierra del Espiritù Santo is a part of this group of islands, seemed at present to be very clear. Having obtained this information, they returned to their boats; but in their way one of them picked up an orange on the shore, which he shewed to the natives. They told him the name which it bears in their country, and thus gave another proof that the accounts of Quiros, relative to the productions of the lands discovered by him, are not void of foundation. We had found shaddocks in the Friendly Islands, but never met with oranges in any island of the Pacific Ocean before. The ideas of the natural riches of the island of Mallicollo were considerably raised after this confirmation of Quiros's reports. Our people rowed into the harbour near two miles, and found its bottom filled with mangroves, but could not meet with fresh water. A river probably flowed into the sea among these mangroves, but it was in vain to attempt a passage through the close tissue of their branches, which multiply out of every seed, without forming a separate tree. The evening was very hot, and they returned on board heartily tired. As they rowed along the shore, they heard the drums beating, and saw the natives dancing to the sound by their trees. Their music, and that which they made the preceding night, was not remarkable either for harmony or variety, but seemed to be of a more lively turn that that of the Friendly Islands.

During night several of our people tried to fish, and some of them were successful. One caught a shark nine feet long, which was now very acceptable, all our fresh provisions being entirely consumed, excepting a few yams, which were eaten instead of bread. Another took an Indian sucking-fish ( echeneis naucrates) near two feet long; and a third made prize of two large red fishes of the sea-bream kind (probably the sparus erythrinus, Linn.) one of which he kept for his messmates, and the other he presented to the lieutenants. The captain received a share of the shark, on which we feasted the next day, when the whole ship's company regaled themselves with a fresh meal. Sharks do not afford a very palatable food, but it was at all times preferable to salt provisions, and necessity taught us to relish it. This severe teacher reconciles the Greenlander to whale-blubber, and the Hottentot to filthy intestines; and time makes these indelicate viands acceptable and delicious to their taste. This shark, when cut open, was found to have the bone point of a poisoned arrow sticking in his head, having been shot quite through the skull. The wound was healed so perfectly, that not the smallest vestige of it appeared on the outside. A piece of the wood still remained sticking to the bony point, as well as a few fibres with which it had been tied on; but both the wood and the fibres were so rotten, as to crumble into dust at the touch. Fishes therefore are not affected by these arrows, which we supposed to be poisoned.

The next morning we weighed the anchor and set sail, having scarcely had time sufficient to sketch a plan of the harbour, which was honoured with the title of Port Sandwich. Its situation, deduced from astronomical observations, is in 16° 28' south lat. and 167° 56' east long. We were becalmed before we could clear the reefs, and obliged to send out boats ahead to tow us out, which they performed very slowly and with great difficulty. In the mean time the natives came to us with all their fourteen canoes, and sold us great numbers of arrows of all kinds and some clubs. They made several trips between the ship and the shore, as they had done the preceding day, and seemed to be very eager to part with their arms for Taheitee cloth. We repeated our demand for provisions; but they would not listen to it, and only parted with what they could more easily spare or replace.43 Towards noon we got clear of the harbour, and left Mallicollo with the sea-breeze, which then freshened, standing over to Ambrrym, or the Island of Volcanoes. Whether we might have obtained some refreshments by staying a few days longer and improving our acquaintance with the natives, is very uncertain; for since they set no value on our iron-ware, we could offer no equivalent for their provisions.

The island of Mallicollo is about twenty leagues long from north to south, and the port which we had left lies in its south-east extremity. Its inland mountains are very high, clad with forests, and without doubt contain many fine springs, though we could not trace them between the trees. The soil, as far as we were able to examine it, is a rich and fertile mould, like that which covers the plains of the Society Islands; and the vicinity of the volcano at Ambrrym gave us great room to suppose that Mallicollo is no stranger to the processes carried on in these natural laboratories. Its vegetable productions seem to be luxuriant and in great variety, and the useful plants not less numerous than in the islands we had before visited. Coco-nuts, bread-fruit, bananas, sugar-canes, yams, eddoes, turmerick, and oranges were seen on the island, and enumerated by the natives. Hogs and common poultry are their domestic animals; to which we have added dogs, by selling them a pair of puppies brought from the Society Islands. They received them with strong signs of extreme satisfaction; but as they called them hogs, ( brooàs),44 we were convinced that they were entirely new to them. We did not find any other quadruped during our short stay, nor is it probable that, on an island so far remote from continents, there should be any wild animals of that class. In the course of one day, and confined to a barren beach, it is not likely that we could form a more adequate idea of the animals than of the vegetables of this country. We saw enough, however, to be convinced, that the woods are inhabited by many species of birds, among which there are doubtless some which have as yet escaped the attention of naturalists.

The productions of Mallicollo are, however, less remarkable and striking at first sight than the race of its inhabitants. To judge of their numbers from the croud we saw at Port Sandwich, I should conclude, that they are far from inconsiderable; but considering the great size of the island, I cannot suppose it to be very populous. Fifty thousand is, I think, the greatest number we can admit;45 and these are not confined to the skirts of the hills, as at Taheitee, but dispersed over the whole extent of more than six hundred square miles. We ought to figure their country to ourselves as one extensive forest: they have only begun to clear and plant a few insulated spots, which are lost in it, like small islands in the vast Pacific Ocean. Perhaps if we could ever penetrate through the darkness which involves the history of this nation, we might find that they have arrived in the South Sea much later than the natives of the Friendly and Society Islands.46 So much at least is certain, that they appear to be of a race totally distinct from these. Their form, their language, and their manners strongly and completely mark the difference. The natives on some parts of New Guinea and Papua seem to correspond in many particulars with what we have observed among the Mallicollese. The black colour and woolly hair in particular are characteristics common to both nations. If the influence of climate be admitted, which is so strongly defended by count Buffon, it offers another proof that Mallicollo has been but lately peopled [212] The reader will perceive that we only use this expression comparatively. , since the interval of time has not been sufficient to work a change in the colour and hair of the inhabitants.47 But I am far from being convinced of this general and powerful influence of climates. I have only ventured out into the great field of probabilities, and am ready to quit my opinion as soon as another more just and more rational is offered.48 New Guinea and the islands adjacent, the only countries from whence we can expect some light on this subject, still remain unknown to us, not only in regard to their geographical situation, but more especially as to their inhabitants. From the voyagers who have visited that part of the world [213] Dampier, Carteret, Bougainville. it appears that many distinct tribes dwell in its different parts.49 But it is particularly to be remarked, that besides the black race, there are also some of a lighter colour, who, if we may judge from their customs, seem to be related to the natives of the Society and Friendly Islands. Some other tribes there are who may, in all probability, be a mixture of both races. The slender form of the Mallicollese is a character, as far as I know, peculiar to them and the New Hollanders; but that nation hath nothing in common with them in all other respects. Their custom of tying a rope very fast round their belly is still more singular, and would be fatal to a person unaccustomed from infancy to such an absurd ligature. The rope was as thick as a man's finger, and cut such a deep notch across the navel, that the belly seemed in a manner double, one part being above and the other below the rope. The bracelets which press the upper arm so closely, must have been put on while the natives are very young, and appear to have been contrived upon the same principle. The features of these people, though remarkably irregular and ugly, yet are full of great sprightliness, and express a quick comprehension. Their lips and the lower part of their face are entirely different from those of African Negroes; but the upper part, especially the nose, is of a very similar conformation, and the substance of the hair the same. The depression of their forehead may perhaps be artificial, as the heads of infants may be squeezed into all kinds of forms.50 On the continent of America there are many instances of nations who disfigure their heads to make them resemble the sun, the moon, or some other object. But, upon the whole, this figure of the forehead among the Mallicollese is not carried to excess, and does not remarkably encrease their ugliness.

The climate of Mallicollo, and the adjacent islands, is very warm, but perhaps not at all times so temperate as at Taheitee, because the extent of land is infinitely greater. However, during our short stay we experienced no unusual degree of heat, the thermometer being at 76° and 78°, which is very moderate in the torrid zone. Dress, in such a climate, is to be considered as an article of luxury, and cannot properly be placed among the indispensible necessaries. At Mallicollo they have not yet attained that degree of opulence which could have suggested the invention of garments. In their tufted groves they neither feel the scorching beams of a vertical sun, nor ever know the uncomfortable sensation of cold. Briars and shrubberies oblige them to take some precaution, and the impulses of nature towards the encrease of the species, have suggested the most simple means of preserving the faculties51 and guarding against the dangers of mutilation, (see pag. 206). We are too apt to look upon the principles which are early instilled into our mind by education as innate, and have frequently mistaken a moral sentiment for a physical instinct. From the contemplation of unpolished people,52 we find that modesty and chastity, which have long been supposed inherent in the human mind, are local ideas, unknown in the state of nature, and modified according to the various degrees of civilization. It is not likely that the Mallicollese have ever thought of banishing unseasonable ideas from the mind, by a contrivance which seems much more apt to provoke their desires.53 Nay, it is uncertain whether the scanty dress of their women owes its origin to a sense of shame, or to an artful endeavour to please.

The ideas of beauty seem to be more obvious, though singular and different among divers nations. The Mallicollese are not satisfied with the charms of their own person, but think that a stone hung in the nose, a bracelet, a necklace of shells, and a shining black paint, set them off to greater advantage. Their women, as far as we could observe, have no trinkets, but paint themselves with the yellow colour of turmerick, which has a peculiar aromatic smell. The natives of the Friendly Isles powder their hair and the women of Easter Island likewise paint their face and garments with it. It may therefore be employed, on account of its supposed virtues, rather than for ornament. The Mallicollese differ very remarkably from the lighter-coloured nation of the South Sea, by keeping their body entirely from punctures, which characterize all the various tribes of that race.

Their food seems to be principally vegetable, since they apply themselves to agriculture. At times they may likewise feast on pork or fowls; and though we had no time to observe any implements of fishing, yet, as they have canoes, it may be supposed that they have not entirely neglected the produce of the ocean. Our short stay did not give us an opportunity of seeing any of their tools; but from the workmanship of their boats, and the construction of their houses, we have no great reason to admire their skill in the arts. Their island being wholly covered with forests, it must require a great deal of labour to cultivate a spot of ground sufficient for their support. The country itself appears very fertile; but the luxuriant growth of wild vegetables, easily conquers and destroys the more tender shoots of those which are planted. This being the case, it may serve to account for the custom of confining their limbs to a small and slender form, by ropes, bracelets, &c. Such monstrous contrivances to pinch and contract the body, seem to be dictated by necessity, and in time may have been adopted as the marks of beauty. As their agriculture is so toilsome, it is plain they have not time to manufacture a dress, for which they have no immediate necessity. Repose and indolence are the favourite principles of small uncivilized societies, and necessity alone forces them to become industrious. We have observed that the Mallicollese pass away a part of their time with music and dancing. Their instruments are doubtless very simple; we heard no other than drums; and these, together with whistles or pipes, are most easily invented.54 The common transactions of domestic life are so quiet and regular, that human nature seems to require some excentric movement to animate it. At times to be extravagant in the motions and exercises of the body, to produce a variety of sounds from various substances, and to strain the vocal organs beyond their usual scale, are functions perhaps indispensibly necessary in the revolution of human life, to act as spurs or stimuli, and to sweeten the labours of the day.

The drums of the Mallicollese not only serve as a pastime, but are likewise employed to sound an alarm in cases of danger. We have great reason to believe, that they are frequently involved in quarrels with the islanders in the neighbourhood; and it is not improbable, that living dispersed throughout the island in small families, they frequently disagree amongst themselves. We never saw the Mallicollese without their arms, (except those who came into the captain's cabin); and it seems much more care and ingenuity has been bestowed on this part of their manufactures than upon any other. Their bows are strong, elastic, and nicely polished; their arrows well wrought; and those which we supposed to be poisoned, were very neatly ornamented. The custom of poisoning the arrows is a proof of their understanding; and the desire of revenge against unjust oppression, may have suggested it. Their small stature, and slender make, seem indeed to require some artifice to supply the place of strength; but it is at this moment doubtful, whether their arrows are really poisoned. The dog on which we made the experiment on the day of our arrival, recovered perfectly without any assistance, though he was afflicted with the most dreadful illness from eating part of a poisoned fish. Another experiment was tried in the sequel upon a different dog; an incision was made in his leg with a lancet, and the gummy substance, supposed to be the poison, was laid into it, and covered with a plaster. The dog was very lame a few days, from the swelling and festering of the wound; but gradually recovered like the first. The islanders of Santa Cruz [214] Egmont Island, of captain Carteret. __See Hawkesworth, vol. I. p. 576. , who killed a number of captain Carteret's men, seem, according to his description, to be very like the Mallicollese; and are likewise accused of having poisoned arrows [215] See Mendaça's voyage in Mr. Dalrymple's collection, vol. I. p. 78. , by the Spanish navigator who first discovered that island. Their bows and arrows, according to captain Carteret, are, however, of a remarkable length [216] The bows are six feet five inches, and the arrows four feet four inches. , and the latter pointed with flints. Quiros also mentions poisoned arrows among the natives in the Bay of St. Philip at St. Jago [217] See Mr. Dalrymple's collection, vol. I. p. 135. ; but from both instances it appears, that the supposed poison was not very efficacious. The wooden ruffle, which secures the arms of the Mallicollese against the recoil of the bow-string, seems to imply a frequent use of their bows. Besides the missile weapons, such as arrows and spears, they have also short clubs, seemingly for close engagement, and are thus well prepared for all occasions. Their behaviour towards us was in general harmless, but cautious. We received no invitations to stay with them; for they did not like the proximity of such powerful people, being probably accustomed to acts of violence and ill usage from the rest of their neighbours. In some of their countenances we thought we could trace a mischievous, ill-natured disposition; but we might mistake jealousy for hatred. It is probable, that being continually on their guard, and engaged in wars, they have some chiefs and leaders in battle, who, like the commanders at New Zeeland, are obeyed at the time of action.55 The only man whom we supposed to be a chief, at Mallicollo, did not appear to be respected; and it was only when he procured us some fresh water, that we could attribute to him any authority at all. Remarks on the government of a people are seldom to be made at the first interview, and therefore I only offer probabilities instead of facts. Their religion is entirely unknown to us, as well as the particular customs of domestic life; nor can it be supposed, that we could gather any intelligence concerning their diseases. We did not take notice of any sick person among them during our stay; however, according to Mr. de Bougainville's account, the natives on an adjacent island are subject to the leprosy in such a high degree, that he named it the Isle of Lepers.56

The general character of the Mallicollese ought to be considered with a retrospect to their civilization. Dispersed into small tribes, who have frequent causes of dispute, it is not surprising that they are cautious and distrustful. At the same time, however, their behaviour towards us shewed, that they had not propensity to quarrel without a cause, but wished to give no offence; and were in general much displeased with a few individuals among themselves who attempted to infringe the peace. Green boughs, their signs of friendship, confirmed this good disposition. The ceremony of pouring water on their heads, is still more important, as it shews a great similarity between them and the people of New Guinea. Dampier observed exactly the same sign of amity at Pulo Sabuda, on the western coast of New Guinea [218] See Dampier's Voyages, vol. III. p. 186. . The short conversations which we had with the Mallicollese, proved them to be a people of quick perception; their senses are acute, and their intellects very open to improvement. From their amusements it may be concluded, that they are chearful and good-humoured; and if I may venture another conjecture, they only want the impulse of an ambitious individual to bring them into a higher state of civilization. After this detail, it is time to resume the thread of our voyage.

Having cleared the reefs of Port Sandwich, and standing towards the Isle of Ambrrym, we gradually came in sight of the south-east extremity of Mallicollo, where four or five small islands form a kind of bay. Ambrrym, on which the volcano is situated, appears to be upwards of twenty leagues in circuit. The centre of the island lies in 16° 15' S. and 168° 20' E. Pa-oom, the high peak to the south of it, is of an inconsiderable size, but we were dubious whether the land which we saw before, or to the westward of it, and which was of moderate height, is connected with it or not. The whole circuit of both parts, supposing them to form a single island, cannot exceed five leagues. The peak, according to our observations, lies in 16° 25' S. and 168° 30' E. Apee, the island to the south of this peak, is large, hilly, and of the same extent as Ambrrym, being nearly seven leagues long. Its middle is situated in 16° 42' S. and 168° 36' E. The numerous smokes which arose from all these islands, gave us reason to suppose, that the natives dress their victuals above ground, by an open fire. At the Society and Friendly Isles, where the inhabitants are accustomed to stew their food, by means of heated stones under the ground, we rarely perceived either smoke or fire.

The fresh meal with which all our ship's company regaled themselves this day, was very near being fatal to some of them. All the lieutenants and their messmates, together with one of the mates, several midshipmen, and the carpenter, having eaten of the red sea breams ( sparus erythrinus) of which two had been caught, were in the space of a few hours, seized with violent symptoms of being poisoned.57 It began with great heat in the face, acute head-ache, severe vomiting, and diarrhœa; the arms, knees, and legs were so benumbed, that they could scarcely walk or stand; the salival glands were swelled, and a most copious discharge ensued; they were also troubled with acute pains, and spasms in the bowels. A hog, which had eaten of the garbage was seized with similar symptoms, swelled to a great size, and died at night. Several dogs on board, having received a share of the entrails, and some being fed upon part of the boiled fish, were affected in the same manner; they groaned most pitifully, had violent reachings, and could hardly drag their limbs along. A little favourite parroquet from the Friendly Isles, which familiarly hopped on its master's shoulder, having likewise tasted a morsel of the fish, died the next day. In a word, the joy of having obtained a fresh meal was suddenly converted into sorrow; and the only comfort in this misfortune was, that our surgeon had dined with the captain this day, and by that means escaped the fate of his messmates.

We still continued in sight of Mallicollo, Ambrrym, Apee,and Pa-oom, [Sunday 24.]the next morning; but stood towards the southernmost island then in sight, and discovered on the 21st, which from the three hills upon it, was named Three-Hills Island (see p. 204). We approached within half a mile of it, and observed it to be of the same nature with those already discovered. It was well wooded, and probably well inhabited; for some of the natives appeared on the shore, who resembled those of Mallicollo, and were armed like them with bows and arrows. A very extensive reef runs out from the south point58 of the island, with some rocks in it. The whole island seemed to be about five leagues in circuit; its greatest extent was from north-east to south-west; and according to astronomical observations, it is situated in 17° 4' S. latitude, and 168° 32' E. longitude. At noon we put about, and stood for several small islands and broken lands, which appeared off the S. E. end of the island of Apee, and now lay to the N. E. of us. We likewise had sight of a peak to the S.E. and of some land beyond that, which seemed very large, though at a great distance. The number of islands in this group was very surprising; and their direction to the southward, gave us great hopes of continuing to make discoveries, which might gradually lead us back once more to New Zeeland.

We stood on towards these north-easterly lands, and came among them in the afternoon. They were of an inconsiderable size when compared to Mallicollo, Ambryym, Apee, or even to Three-hills Island, and Pa-oom. Most of them, however, were inhabited; which circumstance we collected particularly in the evening, when we saw several fires, even on those which we had by day-light judged to have no inhabitants. After sunset we were becalmed for several hours in the midst of these isles; the darkness of the night, and several broken rocks close to us on all sides, rendered our situation extremely critical. The navigator, who means to explore new islands, and give an accurate account of their position, is often in danger of losing his ship. It is impossible for him to form a just conception of the coast, without approaching close to it; but he must necessarily be exposed to the dangers of a sudden storm, a sunken rock, or a swift current, which are sufficient, in a few moments, to destroy all his hopes of glory. Prudence and caution are very necessary in the conduct of every great enterprize; but it seems, that in a voyage of discovery, as in every undertaking of consequence, a certain degree of rashness, and reliance on good fortune, become the principal roads to fame, by being crowned with great and undeserved success.

These dangerous islands received the name of Shepherd's Isles, from the Rev. Dr. A. Shepherd, F. R. S. professor of astronomy in the university of Cambridge. We obtained a fresh breeze the same night, and tacked off and on till the [Monday 25.]next morning at day-break, when, being near the southermost island, we stood away to the southward for the lands which we had discovered the day before. We passed to the eastward of Three-hills Island, towards two other isles a few leagues to the south of it, of a much smaller size, but covered with verdure and groves in the same manner. We sailed between one of them and a high columnar rock, which we named the Monument, from its remarkable shape.59 The surf which had beaten upon it, had worn several deep furrows and channels into it. It looked blackish, might be an hundred and fifty yards high, and was not wholly destitute of verdure. A great number of boobies and terns were seen flying about it, and seemed to have taken up their residence on it. The larger island, near which it was situated, was called Two-hills Island, by captain Cook, because it had only two elevations of any remarkable size.

We now stood due south, towards the large land which appeared in that quarter, and which we had already noticed on the 24th. A canoe, with a triangular sail, was observed at a great distance, coming from the S. W. towards Three-hills Island. The natives of these different islands have therefore, in all likelihood, a friendly intercourse with each other, in the same manner as the different inhabitants of the Society and Friendly Islands.60 In the afternoon we had almost made the southern island, which now appeared to consist of two; and were preparing to pass to windward of both, being near the eastermost of them, when the breeze suddenly failed us, and we were carried to the west by the tide or current at a great rate. Our situation this night was no less dangerous than on the preceding, with this difference only, that the moon shone very bright, and we could judge of the quick advances which we made towards the western island. Its northernmost point was of a great height, rocky, black, and almost perpendicular, having only a narrow beach, and a few scattered rocks at the bottom. We remained in the most dreadful suspense till near ten o'clock, as the current was so strong, that hoisting out our boats would scarcely have availed us any thing. The ship's head, her stern, or her broad-side, were by turns directed towards the shore, on which we heard the surf breaking with a much more dreadful sound than it had ever had before, when unconnected with the ideas of immediate danger; at last we fortunately drifted clear of the point at a short distance.

[Tuesday 26.]The next morning a gentle breeze sprung up, with which we advanced towards the land again. We now ran within the eastermost island, which, though it was not above eight or nine miles in circuit, was however inhabited, many of the people running along shore to gaze at us, with bows, arrows, and darts in their hands. This isle had a hill of moderate height in its centre, which appeared to be destitute of woods in most parts, the cultivated lands and groves lying at its foot and on its first slope. They consisted of coco-palms, bananas, and various other trees; amongst which we discerned a number of small huts, and on the beach, several canoes hauled ashore. The land opposite to the west was about four or five leagues distant from it, and now likewise appeared to consist of two islands. One of these to the north, the same on which we were near being lost, was small, not above twelve or fifteen miles in circumference, but of moderate height, like the former, and with much the same aspect. To the south of it, the main island appeared, which extended no less than ten leagues from N. W. to S. E. It was of a moderate height, like the two others near it, but very gently sloping in all parts, and presented to the eye many beautiful prospects. Thick groves, and extensive tracts of clear ground, were very agreeably varied, and the latter had a rich yellowish colour, which exactly resembled the golden corn-fields of Europe. We all agreed that this island was one of the finest we had hitherto seen in the new group, and seemed to be well situated for the purpose of an European settlement.61 We kept at a considerable distance from it; but it appeared to us to be more thinly inhabited than those which we had left to the northward. This circumstance would facilitate the establishment of a colony; and if the spirit of philanthropy could ever animate the planters, they would here have an opportunity to become the benefactors of the natives. From what we observed at Mallicollo, this race of men is very intelligent, and would readily receive the improvements of civilization. There appeared to be a bay towards the N. W. end of the island, which we did not examine, on account of several small islands and reefs lying before it to the eastward. It appeared to form a deep indenture on the shore, and to be more accessible from the westward. Captain Cook named this extensive island Sandwich, that to the north Hinchinbrook, and the other to the east Montagu. The middle of Sandwich Island lies in 17° 40' S. lat. and 168° 30' E. long.

[Wednesd. 27.]We ran to the south-eastward all the afternoon and night; but at day-break, the next morning, another island was seen ahead, about fourteen leagues distant, Sandwich being still faintly in sight, nearly at the same distance. Our ships now perfectly resembled an hospital; the poisoned patients were still in a deplorable situation; they continued to have gripes, and acute pains in all their bones: in the day time they were in a manner giddy, and felt a great heaviness in their heads; at night, as soon as they were warm in bed, their pains redoubled, and robbed them entirely of sleep. The secretion of saliva was excessive; the skin peeled off from the whole body, and pimples appeared on their hands. Those who were less afflicted with pain, were much weaker in proportion, and crawled about the decks, emaciated to mere shadows. We had not one lieutenant able to do duty; and as one of the mates, and several of the midshipmen were likewise ill, the watches were commanded by the gunner and the other mates. The dogs which had unfortunately fed upon the same fish, were in a still worse condition, as we could not give them any relief. They groaned and panted most piteously, drank great quantities of water, and appeared to be tortured with pain. Those which had eaten of the entrails were infinitely more affected than the rest. One of these poor creatures was doomed to be a martyr, being the same upon which we tried the Mallicollese arrows; however, he luckily got the better of both these attacks, and was brought to England. It is remarkable, that captain Quiros complains of a sort of fish, which he calls pargos, that poisoned a great part of his crew, in the bay of St. Philip and St. James. Nothing is more probable, than that it was of the same species, pargos being the Spanish name of the sea-bream ( pagrus). It is to be suspected, at the same time, that these fishes are not always poisonous, but, like many species in the West and East Indies, may acquire that quality, by feeding on poisonous vegetables.62 The circumstance, that the intestines were more poisonous than the rest, seems to confirm this supposition; the greatest part of the venom remaining in the primœ viœ, whilst only a small part was carried into the muscles, by the chyle63 and blood.

We had had very mild weather after leaving Mallicollo, but the trade-wind had blown fresh from time to time. At present, however, being in sight of this new island, we were stopped by light airs and faint breezes. [Thursday 28.]All the next day we lay becalmed, and rolled about very uncomfortably, being set to the northward several leagues by a current. In the evening we discovered another island very far off to the south-eastward, of which for the present we took no notice. [Friday 29.]The day after we obtained a breeze towards noon, which continued [Saturday 30.]till the next day in the evening, and brought us within six leagues of the land. In the afternoon one of the dogs, less affected with the poison of the fish than the rest, being quite recovered, we determined to try another experiment with the poison of the Mallicollese arrows. An incision was made with a lancet in his thigh, and the resinous substance sticking on the bony point of the arrow, as well as the green earthy stuff which lodged in the compartments formed by the coco-nut fibres, were scraped off, and laid into the wound, covered with a plaster, in order to make the experiment as fair as possible. The dog, as I have already mentioned, recovered as quickly as if nothing had been laid into the wound.

[Sunday 31.]The next morning it was absolutely calm again, and many of our sailors observed, that the island before us was certainly enchanted, because our attempts to come near it had hitherto failed. At present we saw the other island to the south,64 which had been discovered on the 28th, more distinctly than before. The nearer island seemed to be less fertile and agreeable than those which we had hitherto discovered; it seemed, however, to be inhabited, which we concluded on seeing a great smoke rise from it. Our situation was the more disagreeable, as it was tantalizing to be in sight of land, and not to be able to approach it. Notwithstanding its supposed barrenness, which precluded the hope of refreshments, we were all very desirous of being better acquainted with it. We never felt the tediousness of being confined to the ship more severely, nor ever wished more eagerly to have intercourse with human creatures. The company of savages, and an opportunity of contemplating their manners, dwellings and plantations, were at present, in our estimation, desirable objects. In the afternoon two sharks were caught, which swam about the ship, attended by pilot and sucking-fishes. One of these huge voracious animals seemed to be a species of epicure, having in his maw no less than four young turtles, of eighteen inches in diameter, two large cuttle-fishes, and the feathers and skeleton of a booby; but though he was well fed, he did not disdain a piece of salt pork, with which we baited our hook. The sailors had no sooner hauled them on deck, than every one drew his knife, and in a few moments divided them into small pieces, which they hastened to dress, and to devour. One of the sharks making some resistance in hauling up, was shot dead by our officers, who were equally concerned with the rest of their shipmates to prevent his escape. In this manner we revenged the cause of the whole submarine creation. Salt provisions are more loathsome in hot climates than every where else, which is partly owing to the raging thirst they occasion. As we had lived upon salt meat since we left Namoka, it may be easily imagined that no shark was ever more delicious to our taste. A faint breeze sprung up at night, with which we proceeded towards the land once more. We discerned a single rock [1774. August.][Monday 1.]the next morning lying off its north end, at the distance of a few leagues; and as we approached, found the island less barren than we had at first supposed. Towards ten o'clock, we were most dreadfully alarmed by a fire in the ship. Confusion and horror appeared in all our faces, at the bare mention of it; and it was some time before proper measures were taken to stop its progress: for in these moments of danger, few are able to collect their faculties, and to act with cool deliberation. The mind which unexpected and imminent danger cannot ruffle for a time, is one of the scarcest phӕnomena in human nature; no wonder then, that it was not to be met with among the small number of persons to whom the ship was entrusted. To be on board of a ship on fire, is perhaps one of the most trying situations that can be imagined; a storm itself, on a dangerous coast, is less dreadful, as it does not so entirely preclude all hopes of escaping with life. Providentially, the fire of this day was very trifling, and extinguished in a few moments. Our fears suggested that it was in the sail-room; but we soon found, that a piece of Taheitee cloth, carelessly laid near the lamp in the steward's room had taken fire, and raised a quantity of smoke, which gave the alarm. In proportion as we advanced towards the land, we discerned fine woods upon it, interspersed with glades and plantations on the very summits of the hills. A number of coco-palms were likewise observed upon it, which had not however that noble appearance, by which we distinguished them in other countries.

In the afternoon we came up with the west side of the island, and running close to the shore, we observed several small beaches, at the foot of steep hills, covered with plantations. These chiefly consisted of bananas, and were confined in neat enclosures, near which we also noticed several houses like sheds.65 Thirty or forty natives were seen running along the shore, armed with bows and arrows, as well as spears. They looked very swarthy at a distance, and resembled the people of Mallicollo. Some women were observed among them, who wore a kind of petticoat, apparently made of leaves and straw, which descended to the mid-leg, or sometimes nearly to the ancles;66 the men on the contrary were naked, like the Mallicollese. We entered a kind of open bay, where the natives of both sexes waded a good way into the water, and called to us, to all appearance, with very friendly gestures. We stood across the bay, where it was not thought proper to anchor. It was growing dark when we opened the southernmost point, and saw the coast stretching to the east. As the wind was falling again, we did not attempt to stand in shore any longer, but rather endeavoured to keep off during night, for fear of being set towards it by the current. Every morning and evening, at sun-rise and sun-set, our sailors washed the decks from one end to the other, to prevent the heat from drying them up too much, and making them leaky. This evening one of the marines, who was drawing water on the ship's side, for this purpose, had the misfortune to fall over-board. He was not able to swim; however, by bringing the ship to instantly, and throwing a number of ropes over-board, one of which he seized, we succeeded in our endeavours to save him. The poor fellow was immediately conducted between decks, by his comrades the marines, being much weakened by the efforts he had made to save himself by keeping fast hold of the rope, as well as the sudden fear of death. They shifted his clothes, and gave him a dram or two of brandy to revive the animal spirits, treating him with peculiar tenderness, the result of an esprit du corps, to which sailors are at present utter strangers.67

[Tuesday 2.]The calms which had so long persecuted us, were not yet at an end. Our ship lay like a log on the water all night, and the next day being gradually drifted into the bay which we had passed the day before, the boats were hoisted out, and sent in quest of anchorage. They had no soundings till they came near the shore, but there had found twenty fathom, at the distance of three cables lengths (six hundred yards). The natives were seen running to the beach again, but our people held no converse with them; for captain Cook seeing a breeze spring up, made the signal for them to return, and hoisted them in again. The cannon which was fired on the occasion, seemed to have no particular effect on the natives, who were doubtless utterly unacquainted with our arms, and with Europeans.

[Wednesd. 3.]We sailed round the N. W. point of the island, and in the morning advanced towards the single rock, which we had noticed before. A very remarkable mountain with a double summit, which had some resemblance to a saddle, lay on the island just abreast of this rock, and seemed to be of great height, even though the rest of the island had a considerable elevation. The detached rock appeared to be covered with wood, and our ship being greatly in want of fuel, two boats were hoisted out and sent towards it. The hopes of making some botanical acquisitions, engaged us to embark in one of these boats. The distance which had been supposed trifling, was found to be near five miles; but after rowing all this space, we were wholly disappointed. An enormous surf broke upon the rock on all sides, which rendered the landing absolutely impracticable. In vain we rowed all round it, casting many a longing look at the verdure and trees with which we saw it covered. A large bat, and some small birds were observed flying through its bushes; and a number of fish swam among the broken rocks; but the former did not come within musket-shot, and the others refused to take our hooks. Returning back to the ship we caught a water-snake ( coluber laticaudatus, Linn.) of the same sort which had been observed so plentiful on one of the low isles off Maria Bay, in Tonga-Tabboo. (See vol. I. p. 478.)

After returning on board, a gentle breeze sprung up, and we stood into a kind of bay, close under the Saddle-peak, to the westward of it. We came in towards evening, and found the bay very extensive, above eight miles wide, but not above two deep. The Saddle which forms a kind of peninsula, lies on its east side, and shelters it from the trade-wind, being very steep towards the point, but gradually sloping into lesser hills towards the bottom of the bay. Every part of the shore was well cultivated between the wild groves; and every plantation seemed to be enclosed in very neat fences of reed, exactly resembling those which we had observed at the Friendly Isles. We dropped an anchor about a quarter of a mile from shore, having a low point a-head of us, behind which there appeared to be a harbour. The natives lined the shore in great crouds; some of them swam off, and came within hail, but no nearer; crying out and screaming aloud to us. They appeared at a distance to resemble the Mallicollese, and were swarthy; one of them however, had reddish hair, and was fairer than the rest. It was remarkable that not a single canoe appeared, either on the water, or hauled ashore; though we can hardly suppose so fine an island to be destitute of boats. As it was growing dark, all the swimmers returned to the shore, and made several fires in their plantations. Our provision of fresh water being very low, and that which we filled at Namoka being very bad, we rejoiced to have found a place, where the appearance of the country, gave us the greatest hopes of meeting with a fresh supply, not only of this necessary article, but of all sorts of refreshments. All those who had been poisoned by the red fish at Mallicollo, were not yet wholly recovered, but felt their pains returning every night, their teeth lose, and their gums and palate excoriated. They likewise hoped to get rid of the remains of their tedious sickness, by making some stay on this island, and recruiting their strength with wholesome fresh food, to which they had long been strangers. But all our expectations proved abortive and premature.

[Thursday 4.]Early in the morning, captain Cook ordered two boats to be properly armed and manned, and commanding himself in one, and entrusting the other to the care of the master, went in search of a convenient watering-place. He first rowed towards the shore directly abreast of the ship, where a number of natives not less than sixty, were assembled on the beach. As soon as he was near the shore, some of the natives came into the water, round the boats, where the captain distributed to them nails, medals, Taheitee cloth, &c. with which they seemed vastly delighted. He soon put off, and rowed along the shore, more ahead of the ship, round the low point which I have already mentioned, the natives running along in the same direction. The boats having got round the point, which might be about three quarters of a mile off, continued out of sight near an hour. In the mean time, the natives were observed running towards the point from all parts, whilst a great number sat down opposite the ship, gazing at it with the greatest attention. At once we heard the discharge of some muskets, and an irregular fire kept up for some time. Upon this alarm, another boat was instantly equipped, and sent to the assistance of the former, and a swivel shot directed over the point. A great gun was likewise brought upon the fore-castle, and fired off towards the hills. This struck a panic into the inhabitants in our sight, who all hastened to screen themselves in the bushes; many were seen running out of the plantations on the hills, roused by the sound, and hurrying away again, as soon as they beheld their countrymen put to flight. We also saw several dragging a dead or wounded man up one of the hills, from the place where we heard the fire of our boats. In a little time the captain returned in one boat, while the two others continued to sound in the bay. One of our seamen was brought into the ship with a wound in the cheek and another in the wrist; and we had the following account from captain Cook and those who accompanied him, concerning this unfortunate attack. The boats had no sooner rowed round the point than they found a good landing-place, where the captain and another person stepped ashore. He found several hundred natives armed with bows and arrows, clubs, and long spears. Their stature was of the middle size, and much superior to that of the Mallicollese; they were indeed nearly of the same swarthy hue, but better limbed and better featured. They went stark naked, with a rope only about the middle, and were for the rest to the full as indecent in the eyes of Europeans as the Mallicollese. Black paint and ruddle68 were likewise not spared on some of their faces; their hair was black, very curly or frizzled, but not woolly in all persons alike, and in a great quantity. Some, however, had reddish hair, and all had strong black beards.

Captain Cook began with distributing presents to several of the natives, and particularly to a man who appeared to have some authority over the rest.69 Having expressed by signs that he wanted fresh water and other provisions, the chief sent away some men, and continued to converse by signs. In a short time the men returned, bringing a hollow bamboo filled with fresh water, a few coco-nuts, and the root of a yam. Our people understood from their gestures, that they had fetched the water at a little distance, but it seemed the natives were not inclined to let them walk thither to examine it. Their numbers encreasing every moment, the captain re-embarked, and ordered his boat to be pushed off. One of the natives immediately seized an oar, but another took it out of his hand and threw it back towards the boat. Some then took hold of the gang-board, which the sailors had neglected to secure, and hauled the boat back to the shore, whilst others came into the water and seized the boat itself, taking out two other oars. The chief stood near the boat, and seemed to direct this whole manӕuvre. Captain Cook levelled his musket at the natives, but here, as at Savage Island, (see pag. 166.) the piece missed fire several times. The natives seeing him take aim, and readily conceiving that what he held in his hand was a weapon, drew their bows and poised their spears. A volley of arrows was directed at our people, and several spears were thrown into the boat. One of them, without any carving and perfectly blunt, wounded a seaman in the cheek. Captain Cook, seeing the lives of his people in danger, ordered them to fire, but it was some time before any of them could discharge their muskets. The first discharge killed two natives, who fell close to the boat. The rest, still undismayed, ran back a little at first, but returned briskly to the charge, throwing stones and shooting arrows at our people. The other boat likewise fired upon them, but only two or three of their muskets went off; however, they also killed and wounded some other natives. It is remarkable, that though the best flints are to be had in England, and though government allows the highest price for them to the contractors, yet are our troops supplied with the very worst flints by these people, who use every means to amass a fortune at the expence of the public. Some attention ought to be paid to an article, upon which the lives of many thousand subjects, nay often the success of engagements, in great measure depends [219] It has been observed by foreigners, who have been spectators of military manӕuvres, abroad as well as in Hyde-Park, that upon a company's firing several rounds, six private men at least retire behind the lines to draw or to fire their muskets, which did not go off before. This singular circumstance is not owing to any defect in the locks, but to the badness of the flints. All foreign troops are in that respect superior to the British. . An arrow hit the master on the naked breast, but being entirely spent, it did not even fetch blood. It consisted of a reed, armed with a long point of black wood, which was jagged or bearded with many indentures on one side. Some of the natives who were wounded crawled upon all fours into the bushes. When our swivels and cannon were fired from the ship, the whole croud dispersed; some, however, hid themselves behind a sandy elevation, which served as a breast-work, from whence they continued to annoy our people, who for some time amused themselves to fire at them as often as their heads appeared. At last, captain Cook seeing a third boat come to his assistance returned on board, and ordered the other two to sound the bay. From his account of this unhappy dispute, Mr. Hodges has invented a drawing, which is meant as a representation of his interview with the natives.70 For my own part, I cannot entirely persuade myself that these people had any hostile intentions in detaining our boat. The levelling of a musket at them, or rather at their chief, provoked them to attack our crew. On our part this manӕuvre was equally necessary; but it is much to be lamented that the voyages of Europeans cannot be performed without being fatal to the nations whom they visit.

After breakfast we weighed the anchor, and prepared to stand farther into the bay, our boats having found convenient anchorage nearer to the watering-place. All the western coast of the bay was covered with thousands of palms, which had a beautiful effect, and appeared to be different from the coco-palm. We soon came in sight of the place where the engagement had happened. A few natives who stood here and there on the shore, ran into the woods on seeing the ship. We saw the two oars which they had taken out of the boat stuck in the ground and leaning on the bushes; but it was not thought proper to send a boat in quest of them, though the coast was clear. After we had entertained hopes of coming to an anchor again for some time, the captain gave orders to put about, and stood to the eastward round the saddle-peak, which was now called Traitor's Head.71 We tacked all the morning, in order to weather that point, but could not accomplish it till three o'clock in the afternoon, when we opened a bay immediately to the eastward of it. This bay extended very far inland, and seemed to contain several snug creeks or harbours. The lands on both sides were covered with the thickest woods, which had a most fertile and enchanting appearance. To the south, the land sloped very gently, offering a fine exposure of vast extent almost wholly cultivated, and in all likelihood rich in vegetable productions. We were just abreast of this bay, and perhaps in doubt whether we should not go in, when the island appeared in sight again to the south, which we had already discovered on the 28th of July. Captain Cook now resolved to relinquish the nearer island, and to proceed to the more distant one, in order to leave as little unexplored as possible. The breeze was very fresh, and we left the island with great rapidity. It is situated in 18° 48' south latitude, and 169° 20' east longitude [220] We have given it the name of Irromanga, for, as we afterwards learnt on an adjacent island, this is the name by which it is known among the natives. See the next chapter.72 , and is nearly of a square figure, which measures at least 30 leagues in circuit. We stood southerly towards the new island, with studding sails set, which had been in disuse with us ever since we arrived among this group of isles. Several fires appeared upon the island at night, one of which blazed up from time to time like the flame of a volcano.

[Friday 5.]At day-break we saw a low island at the north-eastward of us, having passed close to it during the night, and a high one nearly east of us, at the distance of eight or nine leagues. The low island was covered with coco-palms, but we could not determine whether it consisted of a circular reef or not. The large island, towards which we still directed our course, extended from N. W. to S. E. and consisted of a high range of mountains. Towards the southeastern extremity, at the end of a secondary range of hills, we discovered a volcano, of which we had really seen the fire at night.73 It was a low hill, much lower than any in the same range, and of a conical shape, with a crater in the middle. Its colour was reddish brown, consisting of a heap of burnt stones, perfectly barren, but it offered a very striking sight to our eyes. A column of heavy smoke rose up from time to time, like a great tree, whose crown gradually spread as it ascended. Every time that a new column of smoke was thus thrown up, we heard a very deep rumbling sound like thunder, and the columns followed each other at very short intervals. The colour of the smoke was not always the same; it was white and yellowish in general, but sometimes of a dirty reddish grey, which we suspected to be partly owing to the fire in the crater which illuminated the smoke and ashes. The whole island, except the volcano, is well wooded, and contains abundance of fine coco-palms; its verdure, even at this season, which was the winter of these regions, was very rich and beautiful.

After eight o'clock we hoisted out our boats, and the master went to sound a harbour, which appeared in view to the east of the volcano. They ran in very fast, and were followed by two canoes of the natives, which put off from different parts of the coast; another canoe was seen at a distance sailing along shore. In a little time they made signals for the ship to follow. We stood on into the harbour, which has a narrow entrance, and as we kept a man constantly sounding in the chains, we were greatly alarmed when our soundings suddenly decreased from six fathom to three and a half; however, an instant afterwards we had four, five, and more fathoms. It appeared that we had providentially passed over a rock before the entrance, on which we had run the greatest risk of striking. The harbour was a small snug bason, where we let go our anchor in four fathom, surrounded by a number of natives in their canoes.

This was the only anchorage where we made any stay in all the extensive cluster of islands which we had now discovered. We provided our ship with wood and water, but did not obtain any refreshments worth mentioning. The principal advantage which we derived from putting in here, consisted in a few remarks on a race of people, in a great measure distinct from all the tribes which were known to us before. But while we were entertained with various new and striking objects, it was very disagreeable to be tantalized with the sight of wholesome vegetable and animal food, with which the natives did not choose to supply us.74

CHAP. II.

Account of our stay at Tanna, and departure from the New Hebrides.

[1774. August.][Friday 5.]HAVING brought the ship to an anchor, we were well pleased to see the natives coming off in their canoes from different parts of the bay, and paddling round about us at a little distance. Their behaviour at first was very irresolute; though all were armed with spears, clubs, bows and arrows. One or two came close to us, and sent a yam, or a coco-nut, upon the deck, for which we made them presents of our goods. In a few moments the number of canoes encreased to seventeen; some of them contained twenty-two men; others ten, seven, five, and the smallest only two; so that the number of people about us exceeded two hundred. They pronounced several words to us from time to time, and seemed to propose questions; but if we uttered a word of the Taheitee or Mallicollo dialect, they repeated it, without seeming to have the least idea of it. By degrees they were familiarized with our appearance, and ventured close along side. We had hung a net overboard astern, containing salt meat for dinner; which the sea water was to freshen, as we did every day; one of the natives, an old man, seized this net, and was about to detach it; but being called to, he instantly desisted. However, another shook his dart at us upon this occasion, and still another adjusted an arrow to his bow, taking aim by turns at different persons on the quarter-deck. Captain Cook imagined that the discharge of a cannon might be of great service, to prevent any unhappy differences with the natives, by apprizing them of our power. He made sign accordingly to the canoes to paddle aside, in order to keep clear of the shot. It was remarkable that they were not offended by this sign, which had the air of authority, but readily dropped astern. The gun was fired towards the shore, and the two hundred people leaped out of their canoes into the sea in the same instant. Only a single young man, very well made, and of a very open friendly countenance, remained standing in his canoe, without the least marks of surprize or fear, but looking with a mixture of mirth and contempt at his affrighted countrymen. They presently recovered their station in their canoes, and seeing no ill consequences had ensued after our bravado, conversed very loud with each other, and seemed to laugh at their own fears. They kept off however at a little distance, and did not shew any hostile inclinations.

Captain Cook did not like the ship's birth, but resolved to carry her deeper into the bay. To that purpose, a boat was sent off with an anchor, and our people proceeded in their operation without being molested. The buoy, however, which belonged to our first anchor, appeared so tempting, that an old Indian, who was quite bald, put off in his canoe, and endeavoured to carry it away, at first by towing it, but afterwards by detaching it from its rope. As soon as we perceived that he was seriously at work about it, captain Cook called to him to desist, but he was not able so much as to divert his attention. The captain fired a musket loaded with small shot at him; and some of the shot having struck him, he immediately threw the buoy out of his canoe. A few moments after, however, feeling himself very little hurt, he returned once more to complete his former undertaking. A musket, with a ball, was now fired rather short of him into the sea; upon this he left the buoy, and came long side to present us with a coco-nut. There was something bold and generous in his behaviour, which I think plainly indicated, that he offered us his friendship, after making trial of our spirit. Our boat having laid the anchor in the ground with another buoy, came on board, and we began to warp in by it. The buoy tempted another native, notwithstanding the correction which his countryman had received. He was afraid of taking it up; but paddled several times towards it, and as often turned back again. At last the temptation prevailed, and he began to haul it into his canoe. A large musketoon was fired at him, and the ball fell close to him, striking the water several times, and at last dropping on the beach. A number of people stood near the place, and immediately ran off; but the man in the canoe returned again to the buoy. Another musketoon, a swivel, and last of all a cannon were fired, which terrified him and all the natives both on the water and on shore, without doing them any hurt.

We brought the ship deeper into the bay, after this little disturbance; but in warping her in, she struck aground several times, being drawn out of the deep channel. The water was very smooth, and the bottom covered with mud, so that she could receive no material damage, and the fault was easily redressed. We then went to dinner very quietly, and afterwards proceeded to the beach in three boats, well manned, especially by all our marines. The opportunity seemed very favourable, as the numbers of natives in sight was very small, and not likely to give us any trouble. A few of them, who were seated in the grass along the beach, ran off upon our landing, but returned as soon as we beckoned to them. On our left, or to the westward, we saw a body of about a hundred and fifty, well armed, who advanced towards us with the green branches of coco-palm, which they presented us in sign of peace. We distributed medals, Taheitee cloth,2 and iron ware, to conciliate their good will; and afterwards exchanged these articles for a few coco-nuts which they brought us, after we had pointed to the trees, and made our wants intelligible by different gestures. One of our first requests was, that they should sit down; which was imperfectly complied with: another, that they should not transgress a line which we drew on the sand; and to this they readily assented. We presently found a pond of very palatable fresh water, and made signs to the natives, that we came to provide ourselves from thence, and that we also desired leave to cut some trees. They immediately pointed out several wild trees which we might cut, only excepting the coco-palms, of which innumerable quantities covered the shore. We filled two small barrels with water, and cut down a few trees, to shew in what manner we intended to proceed; and the natives appeared to be satisfied. Our marines were however drawn up, and the least motion they made so terrified the inhabitants, that they ran off to a considerable distance, only a few old men remaining near us. We desired them to lay down their arms; and even in this demand, which was in itself unreasonable, the greatest part acquiesced. Their stature was of the middle size, and their persons infinitely stronger, and better proportioned, than those of the Mallicollese. Their colour was a dark or chestnut brown, with a very swarthy mixture. Like the natives of Mallicollo, they went stark naked, having only a string round the belly, which did not cut their body in such a shocking manner, as we had observed at that island. We saw some women at a distance, who did not seem to be so ugly as those of Mallicollo, and wore a kind of petticoat, which descended below the knee. Two girls had each a long spear in their hand, but did not venture nearer than the rest. We collected a number of words from these people, among which, far the greatest part were entirely new to us; but sometimes they expressed the same idea by two words, one of which was new, and the other corresponded with the language of the Friendly Islands; from whence we had reason to conclude, that they have some neighbours of the other race, who speak that language. They also told us, that they call their own island Tanna, a word which signifies " earth" in the Malay language. This last we looked upon as a great acquisition; for the indigenous name of a country is always permanent. We made but a short stay among these people, and returned on board as soon as we had filled our casks. We now thought the peace concluded, and every difficulty conquered; but we found matters in a very different situation the next morning. Our intercourse with them had hitherto been peaceable, because they did not feel themselves a match for us; but it seems they were very far from purposing to give us free admittance into their country. They looked upon us as invaders, and appeared jealous of their property, and resolved to defend it.

We saw the flame of the volcano in the evening, blazing up, with an explosion once in five minutes or thereabouts. The transactions of the day prevented my speaking of this wonderful phӕnomenon, though it was in continual agitation. Some of the explosions resembled very violent claps of thunder, and a rumbling noise continued for half a minute together. The whole air was filled with smoky particles and with ashes, which occasioned much pain when they fell into the eye. The decks, rigging, and all parts of the ship were covered with black sherl ashes in the space of a few hours, and the same sand, mixed with small cinders and pumice stones, covered the sea-shore. The distance of this volcano from our harbour was five or six miles; but several hills lay between, so that we only saw its summit, which threw up the smoke from a crater, consisting of several ragged points.

[Saturday 6.]Early in the morning, the ship was moored still more conveniently and nearer to the shore. The natives appeared at sun-rise coming out of their groves and consulting together on the beach. In order to make the sequel more intelligible, it will be necessary to give a slight sketch of the appearance of the country which enclosed the harbour. The point which forms its eastern shore is very low and flat, but presently rises into a level hill, about fifteen or twenty yards high, which is wholly laid out in plantations. This encompasses the eastern and southern shore of the bay, being near three miles long, and extending several miles inland to the sea on the other side. Where this flat hill ends, a fine plain covered with plantations runs to the southward, bounded by several ranges of pleasant hills, of which the nearest are of easy ascent. To the west this plain, as well as the whole bay itself, is enclosed by a steep hill, three or four hundred yards high, which is nearly perpendicular in most places. A narrow beach of large broken shingles and stones runs along the western shore, but a perpendicular rock separates it from the southern beach. This last is very broad, and consists of a firm black sand; it bounds the plain, and is the same where we cut wood and filled our casks with water. A beach of coral rock and shell sand continues from thence along the foot of the flat hill quite to the eastern point of the harbour. The flat hill does not lie close to this beach, but a space of level land, thirty or forty yards wide, covered with groves of palms, extends to its foot. The whole south-east corner of the bay is filled with a flat reef of coral, which is overflowed at low water.

A few canoes put off one by one from the shore, and each brought a coco-nut or two and a cluster of bananas for sale, which they readily exchanged for Taheitee cloth. As soon as the natives in them had disposed of their cargo, they returned to the shore and brought off another. One of them offered captain Cook his club, and, having agreed to take a piece of cloth for it, it was let down into his canoe. However, he had no sooner received this cloth, than he took no farther trouble to fulfil his agreement. The captain spoke to him several times, by such signs as the man seemed to understand, but all in vain; a musket, charged with small shot was fired into his face, upon which he, and two men who were with him, betook themselves to paddling with the greatest agility. Their canoe was pursued from deck by several shots from the ship's musketoons; one of them fell so near them, and rebounded so often from the water, that they all jumped into the sea and swam ashore. A great concourse of natives was presently observed near the spot where they landed, to whom they probably related their story. A few minutes after, a single man came off to us in a canoe, with some sugar-canes, coco-nuts, and yams. He was an old man, of a low stature, but had a very friendly countenance, which announced his good disposition. He had been active the preceding afternoon to preserve the peace with our people, and his arrival was therefore the more acceptable to us. Captain Cook made him a present of a complete dress of the best red Taheitee cloth, with which the old man was highly pleased. He had in his canoe two large clubs, none of these people ever going without arms; but captain Cook, being in one of our boats along side, took them out and threw them into the sea, making signs to the man, that all his countrymen on shore should lay down their arms. The old fellow liked this proposal exceedingly, and seeming entirely contented with the loss of his clubs, returned to the shore, where we observed him parading for some time in his new dress. Vast numbers of people were now seen assembling on the beach from all quarters of the island, but far the greatest part came down from the steep hill on the west side of the bay. The bushes and groves on the plain were filled with men, of whom none went without arms. Towards nine o'clock, having fixed a spring on the cable, we prepared to land in the launch and two other boats, with all our marines and a party of seamen well armed. As soon as the natives saw our boats coming, they hastened out of the bushes on the beach, and formed chiefly in two large bodies, one on each side of the watering-place. That on the west side was by far the most considerable, consisting of no less than seven hundred men, in a compact body, who seemed prepared for action. On the east side we guessed there might be about two hundred men, who, though equally well armed, had however a more peaceable look. In the middle, between them, stood the little old man who had been with us just before, and two other natives. These three were unarmed, and had laid a heap of bananas on the beach. Having approached within twenty yards of the beach, captain Cook called to the natives, and made signs for them to lay down their arms, and to recede from the beach. But of this demand they took no manner of notice, perhaps thinking it absurd and unjust that a few strangers should prescribe laws to them on their own ground. As it was not thought prudent to land between the two bodies of natives, and to expose ourselves to an attack in which many of these innocent people, and perhaps some of us, might have been killed, captain Cook ordered a musket-ball to be fired over their heads, in order, if possible to frighten them away. Indeed, the whole body was immediately in motion at the sound; but, soon recovering from their surprize, the greatest number stood their ground. One of them, standing close to the water's edge, was so bold as to turn his posteriors towards us, and slap them with his hand, which is the usual challenge with all the nations of the South Sea. Captain Cook ordered another musket to be shot into the air, and, at this signal, the ship played her whole artillery, consisting of five four-pounders, two swivels, and four musketoons. The balls whistled over our heads, and making some havock among the coco-palms, had the desired effect, and entirely cleared the beach in a few moments. Only our old peace maker, with his two friends, remained unconcerned near his pile of fruit, which he presented to the captain as soon as he had landed, at the same time desiring him not to shoot any longer. An interesting picture, representing this landing at Tanna,composed by Mr. Hodges, with great ingenuity, has been engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. It is one of those pieces in which the skill of that able artist is displayed in its full force.

Our first care was to draw up the marines in two lines, to guard the waterers. Stakes were driven into the ground on both sides, and ropes fastened to them, leaving a space of fifty or sixty yards clear, for our people to pass and repass unmolested. By degrees they ventured out of the bushes, and came upon the beach, where we made signs to them not to transgress our lines, which none of them attempted. The captain once more repeated his signs, that they should lay down their arms; those on the west did not attend to them, but the other party, who were in some measure connected with our old friend, complied for the greatest part. The old man told us his name, which was Paw-yangom,9 and was permitted to stay within the lines if he chose.

We now endeavoured to advance into the woods in quest of plants, but we had not got twenty yards, before we saw numbers of natives behind every bush, who kept up a communication between the two parties on the beach. It was therefore impossible to make any great acquisitions at first, and we contented ourselves with two or three new species. With these we returned on the beach, and by endeavouring to converse with the party on our left (to the east of us) filled our vocabularies with many words of their language. We often offered to purchase their arms, but they constantly refused to part with them. However, one of them disposed of a cylindrical piece of alabaster, two inches long, which he wore as a nose-jewel. Before he delivered it, he washed it in the sea, whether from a principle of cleanliness, or not, we cannot determine. During the whole time of our stay on shore this morning, the natives did not attempt to molest or attack us; and those on our left seemed very well disposed, and gave us hopes, that we might establish a friendly intercourse with them in a short time. As we now saw a great part of the inhabitants of this island assembled, we had the best opportunity of forming an adequate idea of their general habit of body, their dress and arms. They are of the middle-sized stature, but many among them may be reckoned tall. Their limbs are well made, and rather slender; some are likewise very stout and strong; but those beautiful outlines, which are so frequent among the people of the Society and Friendly Islands, and of the Marquesas, are rarely to be met with at Tanna. I did not observe one single corpulent man among them; all are active, and full of spirit. Their features are large, the nose broad, but the eyes full, and in general agreeable. Most of them have an open, manly, and good-natured air, though some may likewise be found, as in other nations, whose countenance betrays malevolence. The colour of their hair is black; however, we observed some which had brown or yellowish tips. It grew very thick and bushy, and in generally frizzled; but in a few individuals, it still preserved a degree of woolliness. The beard is likewise thick, black, and frizzled. The colour of their whole body is a dark chestnut brown, which is frequently mixed with a blackish hue, so that it appears at first sight, as if it were sullied with soot; and their skin is extremely soft to the touch, as is observed to be the case with Negroes. They almost go perfectly naked; but, true to the general characteristic of mankind, wear several sorts of ornaments. They dress their hair after the following method: they take a quantity, not exceeding a pigeon's quill in thickness, and wrap it in a thin thread or ribbon, made of the stalk of a bindweed, so that only a small tuft remains at the end. All the hair on the head is disposed exactly in the same manner, so that they have several hundred queues, three or four inches long, standing on end, and diverging every way,

Like quills upon the fretful porcupine. Shakespeare.10

If these parcels are a little longer, from five to eight or nine inches, they hang down on both sides of the head, and in that case, the wearer strongly resembles a river-god, with his lank hair all soaked and dripping.11 Some however, and particularly those who have woolly hair, let it grow without torturing it into any particular form, or, at farthest, tie it in a bunch on the crown of the head with a leaf. Most of them wear a thin stick or reed, about nine inches long, in their hair, with which they occasionally disturb the vermin that abound in their heads. A reed set with cock's or owls feathers, is likewise sometimes stuck in the hair as an ornament.12 A few of them also wear a cap made of a green plantane leaf, or of matted work, on their heads. Some twist their beard into a kind of rope, but the greater number leave it in its natural form. The cartilage between the nostrils is commonly perforated, and in the aperture, they wear a cylindrical stone, or a bit of reed, half an inch thick. The ears are pierced with a very large hole, in which they wear a number of rings of tortoise-shell, or of a piece of white shell an inch in diameter, and three quarter's of an inch broad. Sometimes one ring is fastened within the other, so as to form a kind of chain. Round their neck they sometimes pass a string, to which they fasten a shell, or a small cylindrical piece of green nephritic stone, resembling that which is common at New Zeeland.13 On the left upper arm, they commonly have a bracelet made of a piece of coco-nut-shell, either curiously carved, or plain and polished, between which they frequently stick some plant, as the euodia hortensis [221] See Forst. Nov. Gener. Plantar. , the croton variegatum, lycopodium phlegmaria, vitex trifolia, or a species of epidendrum. Some of them wear a belt, or sash, of a kind of coarse cloth, made of the inner bark of a tree, which is commonly of a dark cinnamon colour. Round their middle they tie a string, and below that, they employ the leaves of a plant like ginger [222] Of the order of scitamina. , for the same purpose, and in the same manner as the natives of Mallicollo. Boys, as soon as they attain the age of six years, are already provided with these leaves, which seems to confirm, what I have observed in regard to the Mallicollese, viz. that they do not employ this covering from motives of decency.14 Indeed it had so much the contrary appearance, that in the person of every native of Tanna or Mallicollo, we thought we beheld a living representation of that terrible divinity, who protected the orchards and gardens of the ancients.15 To complete the list of their ornaments, I must add their paints and incisions. The paints are reserved for the face; they are red ochre, white lime, and a colour shining like black lead; all these they mix with coco-nut oil, and lay on the face in oblique bars, two or three inches broad. The white colour is seldom employed, but the red and black is more frequent, and sometimes each covers one half of the face. The incisions are chiefly made on the upper arm, and the belly, and supply the place of punctures, which are common in the lighter-coloured race of men, who inhabit the Friendly and Society Islands, New Zeeland, Easter Island, and the Marquesas. They cut the flesh with a bamboo, or sharp shell, and apply a particular plant, which forms an elevated scar on the surface of the skin, after it is healed. These scars are formed to represent flowers, and other fancied figures, which are deemed a great beauty by the natives. A single man only was observed, who had a figure punctured on his breast, which appeared to have been performed in the same manner as among the nations above enumerated.

The weapons which the men of Tanna constantly carry are bows and arrows, clubs, darts and slings. Their young men are commonly slingers and archers, but those of a more advanced age make use of clubs or darts. The bows are made of the best club-wood ( casuarina) very strong and elastic. They polish them very highly, and perhaps rub them with oil from time to time, in order to keep them in repair. Their arrows are of reed, near four feet long. The same black wood, which the Mallicollese employ for the point, is likewise made use of at Tanna;16 but the whole point, which is frequently above a foot long, is jagged or bearded on two or three sides. They have likewise arrows with three points, but these are chiefly intended to kill birds and fish. Their slings are made of coco-nut fibres, and worn round the arm or waist; they have a broad part for the reception of the stone, of which the people carry with them several in a leaf. The darts or spears are the third sort of missile weapons at Tanna. They are commonly made of a thin, knotty, and ill-shaped stick, not exceeding half an inch in diameter, but nine or ten feet long. At the thickest end they are shaped into a triangular point, six or eight inches long, and on each corner there is a row of eight or ten beards or hooks. These darts they throw with great accuracy, at a short distance, by the help of a piece of plaited cord, four or five inches long, which has a knob at one end, and an eye at the other. They hold the dart between the thumb and fore-finger, having previously placed the latter in the eye of the rope, the remaining part of which is slung round the dart, above the hand, and forms a kind of noose round it, serving to guide and confine the dart in its proper direction, when it is once projected. I have seen one of these darts thrown, at the distance of ten or twelve yards, into a stake four inches in diameter, with such violence, that the jagged point was forced quite through it.17 The same thing may be said of their arrows; at eight or ten yards distance they shoot them very accurately, and with great force; but as they are cautious of breaking their bows, they seldom draw them to the full stretch, and therefore at twenty-five or thirty yards their arrows have little effect, and are not to be dreaded. The clubs are reserved for close engagement, and every grown man carries one of them, besides some of the missile weapons. They are of four or five different shapes. The most valuable are made of the casuarina, about four feet long, strait, cylindrical, highly polished, and knobbed at each end. One knob, which they grasp in the hand, is round, but the other, with which they strike, is cut out into the figure of a star, with many prominent points. Another sort of clubs are about six feet long, and have a great knob or lateral excrescence at one end, which appears to belong to the root. These are made of hard wood, but of a greyish colour. A third kind is about five feet long, and has a flat piece, eight or ten inches long, projecting at right angles, which greatly resembles a farrier's fleam18 in shape, and is formed with a very sharp edge. A fourth is exactly like this, but has one of these flat blades on each side of the handle. Lastly, a fifth is simply a piece of coral rock, about eighteen inches long, and two in diameter, rudely shaped into a cylinder. Sometimes this is likewise made use of as a missile weapon.

We saw but few women on this day, and those who appeared kept at a great distance from us; however they all seemed ill-favoured, and of smaller stature than the men.19 The young girls had only a string tied about the middle, with a little wisp of dry grasses fastened to it, before and behind; but those of a maturer age wore a short petticoat made of leaves. Their ears were hung full of tortoiseshell rings, and necklaces of shells fell on their bosom. Some of the oldest had caps made of a plantane-leaf, or of matted work, but this head-dress was rather uncommon.

Towards noon the greater part of the natives left the beach, as the weather grew very hot, and the hour of taking food was approaching. We likewise embarked, having filled a quantity of fresh water, and returned to dine on board.

About three in the afternoon we went ashore again, and did not find a single man on the beach. At a considerable distance to the eastward we saw about thirty sitting under the shade of their palms, but they did not care to come towards us. We took this opportunity of rambling about two or three hundred yards into the country, where we collected several new plants. We found that part of the plain, at the foot of the level hill, was uncultivated, and filled with a variety of spontaneous shrubs and trees, but did not venture far out of the reach of protection, as we were not yet upon a sure footing with the natives. Having passed some time in the bushes, we walked towards the people whom we had observed seated on the grass. Our friend Paw-yangom met us about halfway, and presented my father with a little pig, for which he received a large nail, and a piece of Taheitee cloth in return. This good old man now accompanied us to our boats, where captain Cook had given orders to haul the seine. By degrees the natives whom we had seen, all came towards us unarmed, and conversed with us, as well as they could, with the greatest cordiality. Our fishermen were extremely successful, and took upwards of three hundred weight of mullets and other fish [223] Particularly a sort common in the West Indies, and there called ten-pounders ( esox argenteus. N. S.). . Paw-yangom seemed greatly desirous of obtaining some of them; and we made him exceedingly happy, by gratifying his desire. About sunset we returned in high spirits with our capture, it being a long time since we had been able to provide a fresh meal for the whole ship's company.

The volcano which had played at long intervals in the morning, entirely ceased its explosions in the afternoon. [Sunday 7.]The next morning, however, at four-o'clock, it began to blaze up again; some showers of rain having fallen over night. Its fires afforded us a most pleasing and magnificent sight. The smoke, which slowly rolled up from time to time, in thick and heavy volumes, was coloured with all the various hues of yellow, orange, crimson, and purple, which died away into a reddish grey and brown. As often as a new explosion happened, the whole country, with its shaggy forests, was tinged with the same orange and purple, according to its distance, or particular exposure to the volcanic light.

We landed after breakfast. The natives, who were assembled in great crouds, though not near so numerous as the day before, did not attempt to hinder our landing, but immediately made way for us. Captain Cook however found it necessary to stretch ropes again on both sides, in order to keep our back free from them. The greater part still refused to sell their arms; but some were not so strict, and parted with both darts and spears. My father gave Paw-yangom a hatchet for the pig which he had received the day before, and explained to him the use of it. He was extremely well pleased with it, and shewed it to his countrymen. Many of them made signs to us that they wanted the same present, which we promised them, if they would bring us hogs; but this offer was entirely unsuccessful. A tent was erected this day, where Mr. Wales, the astronomer, made his observations. A few of the natives were in high spirits, and danced about, shaking their darts at some of our people, but the rest remained very quiet. At noon captain Cook returned on board with us, leaving the lieutenant of marines with his men on shore. We had not been long on board, before we heard a musket fired, and saw the natives disturbed. However, they were soon pacified, and returned to their former station. All our people came off about three of the clock, in order to dine on board. We then heard that one of the inhabitants had offended the officer, by making the same unmannerly gesture with which we had been challenged the day before. Upon this he was shot in the thigh, and made off into the woods. His countrymen likewise prepared to run away, but their old people pacified them.20

The success of the preceding afternoon tempted us to haul the seine a second time this evening, by which means we got about forty-eight pounds of fish. When we landed we saw very few natives, but in a short time they collected near us in great crouds, most of them without any arms, having left them in the bushes, probably to please us. Towards sunset they all dispersed, and only a few remained; who came up and told us that they wanted to go to sleep.21 We made signs to them to depart, and they all left us immediately. We thought we might explain this behaviour as a kind of ceremony, and that they did not think it civil to leave their guests alone in their own country. This circumstance would imply, that they have ideas of propriety and decency, which we should hardly have expected among an uncivilized people.

The next morning Dr. Sparrman, with my father and myself, landed under the steep mountain on the west side of the bay, where a party of sailors were sent to load shingle for ballast. A little swell came in upon the shore in this place, which obliged us to wade through the surf. On the steep sides of the hill we gathered several new plants, and slid down the precipice several times. Different sorts of minerals appeared in this place. The principal strata of the steep hill consist of a species of clay, very soft, and crumbling in pieces when exposed to the air and moisture. We also found a species of black sand-stone, a substance resembling rotten-stone ( lapis suillus), and some pieces of chalk, which were either pure, or tinged with a reddish colour, perhaps arising from particles of iron. We walked several hundred yards along the beach, towards the west point of the harbour, and at last seeing a path which led up the hill, prepared to advance into the country, when we were met by a number of natives, who were all armed. We then rejoined our party, who loaded ballast, and traded with the natives for a few sugar-canes and coco-nuts. They all sat down on the rocks near us; and one of them, to whom the rest paid some deference, exchanged names with my father. He was called Oomb-yégan. This custom of making friendship, by a reciprocal exchange of names, is common in all the southern islands which we had hitherto visited, and in reality has something in it very engaging and affectionate. After having been in this manner adopted among the natives, we continued upon the best terms imaginable, and collected great supplements to the vocabulary.22 They made us a present of some leaves of a fig, which had been wrapped in banana-leaves, and stewed. They were extremely well tasted, and might be eaten as a substitute for our spinach. We likewise obtained two large plantanes of the coarser sort; which proved, that even here the spirit of hospitality is natural to the inhabitants. The women and children brought down these dainties from the hills, and presented them to us; but they were so extremely timorous, that if we only fixed our eyes upon them, they instantly ran away, to the great entertainment of the men. However, their coming so near us, was sufficient proof that we had made great progress towards gaining their confidence. We observed some of them which had a smile on their countenance, but in general they looked gloomy and melancholy. They had earrings and necklaces like the men, and the married women wore caps of matted work. The greater part of them had nose-jewels of white stone. Whenever we presented a bead, a nail, or ribbon to any of the people, they refused to touch it, but desired us to lay it down, and then took it up in a leaf.23 Whether this was owing to some superstitious notions, or to a fancied idea of cleanliness, or of civility, must remain a matter of doubt. Towards noon our party re-embarked, and we went on board with them, the greatest part of the natives having already retired to their dwellings on the hill. The afternoon was spent in fishing again, but without our former success, for we only caught about two dozen of fish, after many repeated hauls of the net. The natives on the beach were very numerous; and their presence made it improper for us to ramble far into the woods. We therefore confined ourselves to the skirts, and collected a few words of their language.

[Tuesday 9.]We returned to the same place the next morning, where our people had loaded ballast the day before. We climbed about the rocks for several hours in the heat of the day, without much success; and were only tantalized by the appearance of a rich forest, into which we could not venture to advance with any degree of prudence. Before we returned on board again, we discovered a hot spring coming out of the rock close to the water's edge. We had no thermometer at hand; but the degree of heat was such, that we could not bear to hold a finger in the water above a single second. As soon as we had returned to the ship at noon, captain Cook likewise came from the watering party, and brought one of the natives with him in his boat. We soon discovered him to be the same young man, who had shewed so much coolness and bravery on the first day of our arrival, by remaining in his canoe, when near two hundred of his country-men leaped into the sea at the discharge of a cannon, (see p. 263). He told us his name was Fannòkko, and enquired for our names, which he endeavoured to remember. He, as well as all his countrymen, had not the same facility of pronunciation as the Mallicollese; we were therefore obliged to tell him our names, modified according to the softer organs of the Taheitians. His features were rather handsome; his eyes large, and very lively; and the whole countenance expressed good-humour, sprightliness, and acuteness. To mention only a single instance of his ingenuity; it happened that my father and captain Cook, on comparing their vocabularies, discovered that each had collected a different word to signify the sky; they appealed to him, to know which of the two expressions was right; he presently held out one hand, and applied it to one of the words, then moving the other hand under it, he pronounced the second word; intimating that the upper was properly the sky, and the lower the clouds which moved under it. He likewise gave us the names of several islands in the neighbourhood. That from which we came to Tanna, and on which captain Cook had an unhappy difference with the natives, he called Irromanga. The low island which we had passed in standing in to this harbour he named Immèr; a high island, which we had discovered to the east of Tanna, on the same day, Irronàn; and another to the south, which we had not yet seen, Anàttom. He sat down to dinner with us, and tasted of our salt pork, but did not eat more than a single morsel of it. Some yams, fried in lard, or simply boiled, he relished better; but he ate very sparingly upon the whole, and finished his repast with a small portion of pye, made of dried and worm-eaten apples, which seemed to be very agreeable to his palate. He also tasted a little wine after dinner; but though he drank it without shewing any dislike, he did not choose to take a second glass. His manners at table were extremely becoming and decent; and the only practice which did not appear quite cleanly in our eyes, was his making use of a stick, which he wore in his hair, instead of a fork, with which he occasionally scratched his head. As his hair was dressed in the highest fashion of the country, à la porc-épic,24 greased with oil and paint, our stomachs were so much the more easily offended; though Fannòkko had not the least notion that such an action was reprehensible.

After dinner we walked about the decks with him, and shewed him different parts of the ship. He soon fixed his eyes on one of our Taheitian dogs, which he called boòga, hog; a sure sign that dogs are unknown in his country. He seemed so desirous of possessing this creature, that captain Cook made him a present of one of each sex. Besides this, he received a hatchet, a large piece of Taheitee cloth, some spike-nails, medals, and other trinkets of less value, with which we carried him back to the shore, happy beyond expression. As soon as he landed he left the beach with his riches, and walked into the country to his home.

We took a walk to the eastward along the shore of the bay, and looked into the groves which skirted the flat hill, of which I have spoken above. We found these groves to consist of coco-palms, and several species of shady fig-trees, with eatable fruits, nearly of the size of common figs. We also observed several sheds, under which some of their canoes were secured from the sun and weather; but there were no habitations, except towards the eastern point. We were still above three hundred yards from thence, when a great number of natives came and begged us not to go farther; some likewise ran to captain Cook, and pointing to us, desired him to recall us. We returned to our party, and endeavoured to penetrate into the country, immediately at the back of our waterers. We found a path, which led through a variety of bushes, upon the flat hills. In our way to it, we crossed some glades, or meadows, enclosed in woods on all sides, and covered with a very rich herbage of the most vivid green. On our ascending the hill, we were met by three natives, who endeavoured to persuade us to return; but seeing us resolved to proceed, they accompanied us. We passed through a little airy grove, into several extensive plantations of bananas, yams, eddoes, and fig-trees, which were in some places enclosed in fences of stone two feet high. We heard the surf beating on the shore to the south, and seeing the three natives very uneasy at our progress, we told them we only wished to behold the sea. They led us to a little eminence, from whence we got sight of it, and of an island eight or ten leagues distant, which was the same that Fannòkko had named Anattom. It appeared to be of considerable height; and though not of the same extent as Tanna, was probably about ten or twelve leagues in circuit. Having seen this island, the natives invited us to go on farther inland with them, with the same eagerness which they had before expressed to keep us back; but as we took notice, that one of them was sent before the rest, we did not care to trust their invitations at that time, which might however, for aught I know, have been very friendly and honest. We retreated therefore gradually to the beach, having picked up a new plant, and seen so much of the country, as only made us more desirous of examining it. Our people had once more tried their luck in fishing, but were not by far so fortunate as the first time. The natives attended to their method of hauling the net, and from their gestures, we learnt that they are unacquainted with this contrivance, and only dart or shoot with arrows at the fish, when they rise near the surface of the water. They never failed to beg for some fish as often as our people hauled the seine, which is some confirmation that they rarely catch or strike them.25 As often as they took notice of any thing new to them, they broke out into the interjection, heebou! They likewise made use of the same word, when they were suddenly surprised, when they admired, or disliked, or coveted any thing. The different tone and gesture with which it was either drawled out, or quickly repeated several times in a breath, strongly marked the various affections of the mind. They snapped their fingers at the same time, especially when they expressed their admiration.

[Wednesd. 10.]We went on shore at the watering-place the next morning, immediately after breakfast. A party of our people had been there ever since day-break, and told us they had seen many of the natives passing by them, from the eastern part of the bay, loaded with bundles, which they carried into the country. Our men were of opinion that they had actually removed, in order to remain undisturbed, and out of the reach of our fire-arms; but as we never found many habitations on this part of the shore, our arrival might at first have drawn together a number of people from other parts of the island, who occasionally lodged in the woods thereabouts, but now returned to their own dwellings, seeing that no farther mischief was to be apprehended from the strangers, who had arrived among them. We endeavoured to conquer their diffidence more and more, by counting on our fingers, that we only intended to remain a certain number of days on the island; and we found that they were always much pleased and pacified by this intelligence. It must be observed, however, that all those who carried loads this morning were women, whilst the men walked on unconcernedly without any incumbrance, except their arms. It should appear from this circumstance, that the people of Tanna are not yet arrived at that advanced state, which distinguishes the natives of the Society and Friendly Islands. All savage nations have the general character of using the other sex with great unkindness and indignity, obliging them to perform all sorts of laborious, and humiliating operations.26

The removal of the natives was soon discernible, as those who came on the beach to us, were in very small numbers. We therefore took the opportunity of walking out upon the plain, behind the watering-place. We met with several ponds of stagnant water, in which the natives had planted great quantities of eddoes ( arum). The coco-palms formed spacious groves, full of different shrubberies, where a great number of birds of different sorts, chiefly fly-catchers, creepers, and parroquets resided. We saw likewise many lofty trees, covered with nuts, which are common at Taheitee, ( inocarpus Nov. Gen.). These trees were commonly the resort of pigeons of different kinds, and chiefly of the sort which are to be met with at the Friendly Islands, where the natives catch and tame them. It should seem that the inhabitants of Tanna likewise practise fowling; for one of our lieutenants shot a pigeon this day, which had two very long white feathers fastened to its tail by strings; he had believed it to be a new and singular species of bird, till he discovered the artifice. We met with some natives on this excursion, who told us, that one of our people had killed two pigeons; but this intelligence was only valuable to us, on account of the language in which it was conveyed, which was exactly the same with that spoken at the Friendly Islands. It appeared to us that he made use of this language, in order to be more intelligible to us, having frequently observed that we pronounced several words of it. We expressed some surprize however, at his knowledge, and he then repeated the same meaning in the language of Tanna, which was totally distinct from the other. He added at the same time, that the former language was spoken at the island of Irronan, which lies seven or eight leagues to the east of Tanna [224] He likewise acquainted us, that Irronan was sometimes called Footoona. . Perhaps a colony of the same race, who inhabit the Friendly Islands, and all the easterly islands of the South Pacific Ocean, may have settled on that island; or perhaps the natives of Irronan keep up a communication with the Friendly Islands, by means of some Isles unknown to us, lying between them.27

We made another excursion in the afternoon, and saw but few inhabitants in our way, though we advanced near three miles on the plain. We always told them, that we wanted to kill birds, and they immediately went on without giving us any uneasiness. We shot indeed a number of small birds, but the grass was so thick that we lost almost all of them. We passed by some plantations of bananas and sugar-canes, but saw no houses, the greatest part of the ground being uncultivated, and covered with shady forests, or low shrubberies. At the end of the plain we observed a long, and spacious valley, from whence we saw a great number of smokes rising, and heard the promiscuous voices of many men, women, and children. We stood in a path, on both sides of which were thick shrubberies; and the vale itself was so full of groves, that we neither saw the people, whose voices we heard, nor any of their dwellings. It being late in the evening, we proceeded no farther, and without discovering ourselves, retreated to the beach.

The volcano had been quiet ever since the 7th, and though it continued to emit smoke from time to time, yet the rumbling had entirely ceased. The fire within the crater, still however illuminated the clouds of smoke. We had heavy, and almost continual rains all night. In the morning we landed on the beach, and saw but few inhabitants; we therefore repaired to its westernmost corner, where we had observed a path which led to the steep hill on the west side of the bay. We ascended by very easy steps, through the most delightful groves of spontaneous trees and shrubs, which every where spread a fragrant and refreshing smell. Several kinds of flowers embellished the tufted foliage, and the most beautiful bindweeds climbed like ivy to the summits of the tallest trees, and adorned them with garlands of blue and purple blossoms. A number of birds twittered round us, and gave life to a scene, which would without them have been inanimate. Indeed, we did not see a single native on the first slope of this hill, nor did we meet with any plantations. Having walked up about half a mile by different windings, we came to a little glade, covered with delicate herbage, and surrounded with the most beautiful wild trees of the wood. Here the sun shone excessively hot upon us, the place being entirely sheltered from winds. A sulphureous smell however, soon betrayed a kind of steam rising out of the ground, which added to the heat of the place. There was a little mound of whitish earth, which looked as if it were calcareous, on the left side of the path, almost hid by the branches of several sorts of wild fig-trees, that throve luxuriantly in this neighbourhood. From this mound we saw a vapour, or steam rising continually; the earth was so hot, that we could hardly bear to stand upon it, and we found it impregnated with native sulphur. When we stirred in the white earth, we found the steam coming up faster; and on tasting it, we observed a styptic28 or astringent quality, like that of alum in it. From this place we walked on a great way higher, and came to another open place, which lay on the slope, and was rather barren. Here likewise we found two other spots, which emitted steam, but not in such quantities as the first, nor so strongly scented. The earth which covered these solfatarras, was of the same nature as that on the first, and had a greenish tinge from the sulphur with which it was penetrated. But in the neighbourhood of it, we found red ochre of the same sort with that which the natives employ to paint their faces. The volcano was more loud than ever we had known it this day, and at every explosion we observed the steam rising much more copiously than before, in thick white clouds, from the solfatarras.29 This circumstance seems to indicate, that they have a subterraneous connection with, or are, by some means unknown to us, affected by the convulsions of this burning mountain. We remarked that this was the second time the explosions of the volcano had recommenced after showers of rain; and were therefore led to suspect, that the rain in some measure excites these explosions, by promoting or encreasing the fermentation of various mineral substances in the mountain. Having contemplated these singular spiracula,30 we mounted still higher, and discovered a great number of plantations, in different parts of the forest. The path continued to be very good and easy of ascent, surrounded on all sides by very shady trees; but as soon as it approached the plantations, we lost it by some means or other, and it seemed as if the natives had purposely contrived it so, in order to prevent being surprised by their enemies. At last we reached the summit of this hill, and went down the other side of it, in a narrow lane between hedges of reeds, in sight of the sea, which washes the north-east coast of the island. In a little time we got sight of the volcano between the trees, and perceived that the walk which led to it, across several hills and vallies, could not be less than two leagues long from our station. We saw its eruption however, and took notice of immense masses of rock which it hurled upwards in the smoke, and some of which were at least as large as the hull of our long-boat. We were thinking to go on towards it, as we had hitherto met with no bad accident, nor seen so much as a single native on our walk: however, our voices must have alarmed some of them in the plantations along which we passed, for we presently heard one or two blowing on great conchs, which, among many savage nations, and particularly in the South Seas, are used to alarm the country. At this sound we instantly resolved to retreat, and got safely down to the solfatarra which we had last discovered, unseen by any of the natives. Here we met a few of them coming up the hill from the sea side, who seemed greatly surprised to see us so far advanced into their recesses. We told them that we went about to shoot birds, and desired them to bring us something to drink. They went on without seeming to take much notice of our request; but after we had botanized on the spot above a quarter of an hour, and were just preparing to descend, we saw a whole family of men, women, and children, coming down with abundance of sugar-canes and two or three coco-nuts. We sat down, and after refreshing ourselves with the juices which these vegetables contained, made our hospitable friends several presents, with which they parted from us well contented. We went down with our acquisitions, and came on the beach when the boats were going on board. The natives had now begun to trade with yams, sugar-canes, coco-nuts, and bananas; and though they only supplied us sparingly, yet we were highly pleased even with this small beginning, hoping that in time we might obtain more considerable supplies. They set no value on our iron-ware, but preferred Taheitee cloth, small pieces of green nephritic stone from New Zeeland, mother of pearl shells, and, above all, pieces of tortoise-shell. For these last they sold their arms; at first, parting only with darts and arrows, but afterwards disposing also of their bows and clubs.

In the afternoon we landed, and walked along the seashore towards the east point, where the natives had prevented our going on two days before. We met some of them, who talked with us a few moments; but whilst they stood near us, we took notice of a single man sitting behind a tree, with his bow bent and the arrow pointed towards us. As soon as he perceived himself discovered, and a musket pointed at him, he threw his arms into the bush and crept out to us, and I believe he really had no bad intent, though such kinds of jests are not much to be trusted. We reached the eastern point of the harbour, and there gathered some beautiful red flowers, which had tempted us ever since we came to an anchor; they belonged to a species of yamboos or eugenia.31 As we were going to cross the point and to proceed along the shore beyond it, fifteen or twenty natives crouded about us, and begged us with the greatest earnestness to return. We were not much inclined to comply with their demand, but they repeated their intreaties, and at last made signs that we should be killed and eaten. The same gestures, though much less intelligible, had been made to us two days before, but we had paid very little attention to them, unwilling, upon such slight testimony, to suppose that they had any idea of anthropophagy. However, at present we could no longer be mistaken; for, having pretended to misunderstand them, and making them believe that we thought they offered us some provisions, we began to move forward, and expressed that we should be glad to eat something. They were very eager to undeceive us, and showed, by signs, how they killed a man, cut his limbs asunder, and separated the flesh from the bones. Lastly, they bit their own arms, to express more clearly that they eat human flesh.32 We turned from the point, but walked towards a hut which we observed about fifty yards from it, where the ground began to rise. Here several of them, seeing us advance, took up arms out of the hut, perhaps to force us to return. It was not our wish to offend these people in their own country, and therefore we checked a spirit of curiosity, which might have proved fatal to some of them, if they had obliged us to defend our lives. The motives for pursuing our discoveries on this point were not, however, of a trifling nature. Every morning, at day-break, we heard a slow solemn song or dirge sung on this point, which lasted more than a quarter of an hour. It seemed to be a religious act, and gave us great reason to suspect that some place of worship was concealed in these groves, and the constant endeavours of the natives to keep us from this place, greatly confirmed us in this supposition.33 Having walked back a little way, we resolved to get upon the flat hill in a place where the ascent was easy, and where, being very near the point, we hoped to be able to make some observations. When we had reached the top, which was about thirty-five or forty feet perpendicular in height, we found ourselves in a spacious plantation, chiefly consisting of innumerable banana-trees. We found it interspersed with coco-palms and other tall and tufted trees, which entirely impeded the prospect on all sides, and separated from other plantations by various fences of reeds, very neatly made, much resembling those of Tonga-Tabboo and Namoka. Here the natives began to repeat their threats, and, if possible, made it more plain to us than before, that we should be killed and eaten if we went on. We told them we only wished to shoot some birds, but they did not seem to pay much attention to this excuse, and I know not whether we should have made any discoveries this afternoon, if the little friendly old man, Paw-yangom, had not luckily met us. We expressed reciprocal joy on finding each other, and the old man immediately conducted us along the edge of the hill towards its western extremity. Here we saw great numbers of fig-trees, which the natives cultivate for the sake of the fruit and the leaves. They are of two or three different kinds, and one sort, in particular, bears figs of the common size, which are woolly, like peaches, on the outside, and have a beautiful crimson pulp like pomegranates. They are sweetish and juicy, but, upon the whole, rather insipid. The yamboos, ( eugenia), a cooling watery fruit, of the size of pears, but with an agreeable tartness, likewise grew here in great abundance on large trees; and we also observed some fine cabbage-palms, ( areca oleracea). We advanced into a little thicket of various flowering shrubs, and in a few minutes found ourselves on a fine open area not less than an hundred yards square, on the skirts of which we saw three habitations of the natives.34 Many lofty trees, richly furnished with foliage, made this recess impenetrable to the eye from the outside. Among the rest we noticed an immense wild fig-tree in one corner of the green, of which the stem was three yards in diameter, and the branches spread at least forty yards on all sides in the most picturesque manner. At the foot of this beautiful tree, which was still in full vigour, we saw a small family seated round a fire, on which they roasted some yams and bananas. They ran away into their huts at sight of us, but Paw-yangom telling them they had nothing to fear, they came out again; the women and girls, however, remained at a great distance, and only peeped at us behind the bushes. We sat down with them, and they offered us some of their provisions, with the same hospitality which we had experienced in other islands. Their huts were, properly speaking, large sheds, of which the roof reaches down to the very ground, and forms a ridge at top. They are open at both ends, having only a small enclosure or railing of reeds and sticks about eighteen inches high. The height of the ridge in the largest was nine or ten feet, and the width on the floor between the roofs nearly the same. The length, however, was considerable, and exceeded five and thirty feet. The construction of these huts is very simple; two row of stakes are placed in the ground, bending towards each other, and those which are opposite are tied together. Over these they lay several mats, made of coco-nut leaves, which form a thatch sufficient to defend them from the inclemencies of the air. We saw no manner of utensils or furniture in these houses. The floor was covered with dry grass, and a few mats of palm-leaves lay spread in different parts. We likewise observed that all the inside was blackened by smoke, and found in every hut the vestiges of several fire-places. In the middle of the area, we saw three tall poles standing close together, which were made of the stems of coco-palms, and connected together by means of transverse laths at the top. A vast number of small sticks were fastened across them from the top to within nine or ten feet of the bottom, and these were hung with old coco-nuts. As they make use of the oil in the kernel, and employ the shell for bracelets, they probably keep them in this place to season them. All the skirts of the flat hill, where we saw no habitation, are, as I have already observed, well stocked with immense numbers of wild coco-palms, and the ground underneath them is covered with nuts, of which as it should seem they take the trouble to collect only an inconsiderable quantity. Little bits of their cloth, which they wear as sashes or belts, were suspended on the bushes which surrounded the green; and the presents which Paw-yangom had received, among which was a laced hat, were placed in the same manner like so many trophies. This was a convincing proof to me of the general honesty of the people towards each other. At Taheitee they are already obliged to suspend their goods to the roofs of their houses, in order to keep them out of the reach of thieves; but here they are safe on every bush. It must be observed likewise, in confirmation of this remark, that during our stay among the people of Tanna, we had not a single instance of their stealing the least trifle from any one of our people.35 The natives having observed, that though we looked into their huts, we did not attempt to do any hurt, to displace or take any thing, soon became more reconciled to our appearance, and the boys, from six to fourteen years, who had hitherto kept aloof, ventured to come near, and suffered us to seize their hands. We distributed medals with silk ribbons to them, and gave them handkerchiefs of Taheitee cloth, which entirely conciliated their affection, and banished reserve and the remains of apprehension. Distrust and suspicion, are not yet known to the boy; he is frank and honest, and thinks every body is like himself. We learnt all their names, and preserved them in memory, and it can hardly be thought how much this little artifice assisted us in gaining their good graces; they were overjoyed that we remembered them, and came running as often as we called. Having spent some time with them, we got up to return to the beach, and old Paw-yangom, who did not care to go down, it being very near sun-set, gave directions to two or three young men to shew us the nearest path. We took leave of him very heartily, and made some addition to the presents he had already received. In our way we told our conductors, pointing to the coco-palms near the beach, that we were dry, and should be glad to taste some of them. Upon this they immediately led us into another path, where a number of palms stood in the midst of the plantation. From thence they took some nuts, and presented them to us, which we interpreted as a mark of great good-nature; but when we tasted the liquor, we found that they had done us a particular kindness or civility, it being infinitely more delicious than that of the nuts near the beach. We now looked at the trees, and finding them in very fine order, concluded that those below were wild; but these, planted and brought to perfection by the care of the inhabitants. It is well known that by means of cultivation the coco-palm, as well as all other trees, is made fitter for domestic purposes; and the Javanese have many varieties, of which the nuts are much improved [225] See Hawkesworth, vol. III. p. 736. . The sort which is usual in the Society Islands is one of the best, and likewise owes its excellence to culture; nor do I remember to have seen any variety there resembling the wild palms of Tanna, which thrive even on the mountains. Having been well refreshed through the benevolence of our friendly Indians, we proceeded towards the beach, and in a few minutes rejoined our watering-party there, by a path which led us directly down. Here we rewarded our conductors to the best of our power, and embarking in a boat returned to the ship for the ensuing night.

The singular nature of the solfatarra on the western hill so much attracted our attention, that we hastened thither again the next morning, and Mr. Hodges was of the party. The volcano continued to thunder all the day, and threw up vast quantities of minute black ashes, which, when more accurately examined, proved to be long needle-like and semitransparent sherls. The whole country was strewed with these particles, and they proved remarkably dangerous to our eyes in botanizing, as every leaf on the island was entirely covered with them. It may however be remarked, that the volcano and its productions seem to contribute greatly to that prodigious luxuriance of vegetation which is so remarkable on this island. Many plants here attain twice the height which they have in other countries; their leaves are broader, their flowers larger, and more richly scented. The same observation has been made in various volcanic countries. The soil of Vesuvius and Etna is reckoned the most fertile in Italy and Sicily; and some of the best flavoured wines which Italy produces are raised upon it. The volcanic ground on the Habichtswald, in Hesse, though situated in a high, cold, and barren country, is surprisingly fertile, and covered with verdure. All kinds of plants, indigenous and foreign, thrive with luxuriance, and make this beautiful spot, on which the gardens of the landgrave are situated, the admiration of all beholders. Nay, to confine ourselves to our own voyage, the Society Islands, the Marquesas, and some of the Friendly Islands, where we found volcanic remains, as well as Ambrrym and Tanna, where we actually saw burning mountains, have a rich and fertile soil, in which nature displays the magnificence of the vegetable kingdom. Easter Island itself, wholly overturned by some volcanic eruption, produces different vegetables and useful roots, without any other soil than slags, cinders, and pumice-stones; though the burning heat of the sun, from which there is no shelter, should seem sufficient to shrivel and destroy every plant.

We soon reached the first smoking place, but seeing the natives somewhat higher, we did not stop, and walked up to them. They were the same who had behaved so well to us the day before, and they now sent some of their people up into the country, as soon as they saw us. Mr. Hodges sketched some views,36 whilst we passed our time in examining several plants, and suspended a thermometer, with Fahrenheit's scale, on a tree in the shade. This thermometer stood at 78° on board the ship, at half an hour past eight, which was the time of our departure. Having been carried up close to the body, it has risen to 87°; but after hanging five minutes, at a distance of twenty yards from the solfatarra, it remained at 80°. We made a hole in the earth, deep enough to contain the thermometer in its whole length, and suspending it from a stick into this hole, it rose in half a minute to 170°. We left it there for the space of four minutes, and at the end of that time it still marked the same degree. The instant it was taken out, it fell to 160°, and in a few minutes gradually to 80° again. The steam which issues from this place is consequently of the hottest. The natives, who observed that we stirred in the solfatarra, desired us to leave it, telling us it would take fire, and resemble the volcano, which they called assoòr.37 They seemed to be extremely apprehensive of some mischance, and were very uneasy as often as we made the least attempt to disturb the sulphureous earth. We walked higher, and found several other spots smoking, and of the same nature with that before described. By this time the messengers, whom the people had sent off, came back with sugar-canes and coco-nuts, and treated us as they had done the preceding morning. After this refreshment we advanced higher up the hill, towards another in sight, from whence we hoped to have a nearer view of the volcano; but upon our approaching some plantations, the natives came out, and pointed out a path, which they pretended led directly to the volcano or assoòr. We followed them for several miles, through various windings, being continually surrounded by woods, which hid the country from us on all sides. At last we found ourselves near the sea-shore, from whence we had set out, and saw, or thought we saw, that the inhabitants had been artful enough to lead us far from their dwellings, where they dislike the presence of strangers. One of them was a very intelligent man, and gave us the names of several islands in the neighbourhood, some in directions where we had not been. As we knew that captain Cook had collected a list of names of countries the day before, all which he afterwards found to be districts on the isle of Tanna, we particularly enquired of our Indian, whether the places which he enumerated were likewise situated on this island; but he expressly said there was the sea (tàssee) between them; and seeing us make circles on a paper, made signs that we were right.

We spent the afternoon in an excursion round the flat hill to the south-eastward. Here we found some new plants, and met with a few natives, who offered to conduct us to the sea on the other side. However, observing that they only endeavoured to lead us back to the watering place by another path, we left them, and walked on alone through the plantations, many of which were enclosed with fences of reed five feet high. However another native soon came after us, and brought us to the beach on the other side of the island. We saw the isle of Anattom again, and the native pointed a little to the north of it, where he said another island was situated, which he called Eetònga.38 This circumstance strengthens the conjecture which I venture before, that there is some connection or intercourse between Tanna and the Friendly Islands. The name of Eetònga has a great similarity with that of Tonga-Tabboo, and some of the natives of Middleburgh Island or Eaoowhe, really call it Eetonga-Tabboo. The latter part of the word, (Tabboo) is affixed to other islands in the Pacific Ocean; viz. Tabboò-amannoo ( Saunders Island) and Tabboo-aï [226] An island enumerated by the Taheitians. .39 I will not pretend to say that the people of Tanna design40 the island of Tonga-Tabboo by their Eetònga; but there is room to suppose that some other island of that name may be situated towards the Friendly Islands which facilitates the connection.41 When we had satisfied our curiosity we returned to the beach at the bay, where our people had once more caught about two hundred and fifty pounds weight of fish. This good fortune enabled the captain to give the whole ship's company another fresh meal, which was consumed with the greatest avidity. The bay contained great plenty of fish, and some of the petty officers, who took the trouble of fishing, caught several albecores and cavalhas42 of prodigious dimensions during night. Two fish of the same species which had poisoned so many persons at Mallicollo were likewise taken one morning; but though I wished particularly to draw and describe this species, in order to enable future navigators to be on their guard, yet such was the greediness with which all our shipmates now seized on a fresh meal, that in spite of the example, which was recent in all our memories, the fish were cut up, salted, and peppered the moment they came out of the water. Fortunately those who dined upon them did not feel any bad effects; a farther proof that those which poisoned the officers had fed upon some noxious vegetables, and by that means acquired a bad quality, which is not natural to them. Our sailors relied on the experiment of the silver-spoon, which remained perfectly untainted after being boiled with the fish; but it is at present well known that this mark is extremely fallacious, and that only certain sorts of poisons tinge that metal with an unusual colour. The natives still continued to sell us some yams, but the trade was very far from being brisk.43 Tortoise-shell was the only commodity which they were desirous to obtain; but as we had never expected a demand for it, it happened that there were only a few small pieces in the ship, which had been accidentally purchased at Tonga-Tabboo.44 Those who were in possession of this valuable article were far from making proper use of it. Notwithstanding the loathsomeness of salt meat, the sailor could not be brought to have a single provident thought for the future, and exchanged his tortoise-shell for bows and arrows, instead of laying up a stock of yams.

Our short excursions into the country did not produce such great discoveries in botany, as to confine us to the ship a whole day. We therefore hastened ashore every morning, and endeavoured to collect materials for new observation. [Saturday 13.]On the 13th, we walked up the flat hill to the eastward, in order to visit our friends who lived with old Paw-yangom. We arrived at the plantations unseen by any of the natives, who now came down in very small numbers to the beach, their curiosity being satisfied, and their distrust considerably lessened. We heard one of the men at work cutting down a tree with his hatchet of stone, and observed him through the bushes a long while. The tree was not so thick as a man's thigh, and yet it was a very laborious undertaking, with such a tool as this hatchet, to cut it in two. We went up to him, and he immediately left off working, in order to talk to us. Several boys, who remembered us, came, calling us by name, and brought us handfulls of figs and yamboos; and the women likewise ventured to come and look at us. We examined the hatchet which the man employed, and found it formed exactly like those which are made use of at the Friendly and Society Islands. The blade was of a black stone, which resembled the basaltes employed at those places, and he told us it came from the isle of Anattom.45 He shewed us at the same time another kind of hatchet, to which a broken shell was fastened instead of a blade. This shell, which seemed to be a part of a mitre-shell ( voluta mitra), he said was brought from the low island Immèr, a few leagues to the northward of the bay. It appeared that he was clearing a piece of ground, in order to plant it with yams. He had already cut down a quantity of bushes, which lay in heaps, and which he told us he would set on fire. We proceeded from hence towards the sea shore on the other side, attended by a number of boys, and several young men. We shot some birds in our way thither, and collected several new plants in the plantations, which were more delightfully situated than any we had hitherto seen. We found in them a variety of odoriferous plants, and some others, which it seems were cultivated only for their elegant appearance, as is frequently practised in gardens. We also took notice of the catappa-tree, of which the nuts have a large delicious kernel, twice as big as an almond. It had shed its leaves at present; but the nuts of the last season were still sticking on the branches: the boys broke the hard shell between stones, presenting the kernel to us on a clean fresh leaf. They were as assiduous at present in offering their services as the Taheitians, and from less interested motives. If we had collected a plant, of which we could find no other specimens, we only shewed it them, and away they flew to gather it for us, in places where they knew it was to be found. They were extremely fond of seeing us shoot, eagerly pointed out birds on the summits of the coco-palms, and were overjoyed as often as we killed them. Near every hut we saw some poultry, and several well fed hogs; and here and there we observed rats running over the path, of the same sort which is common in the other islands of the Pacific Ocean. They particularly frequented the fields of sugar-cane, in which they make great depredation. The natives had therefore dug several holes all round these plantations, in which they catch these animals. When we came to the sea shore, we walked to the northward along the beach a good way, in order to come to the point, which the natives from the other side had repeatedly guarded from our sight. On the shore we observed some small huts, which we took to be the abode of fishermen, and from whence we concluded that we had been formerly mistaken, in supposing them unacquainted with fishing; however, we saw no inhabitants, no nets, nor fish in these huts, but only some darts, which might be used as harpoons, or fish-gigs.46 Our attending Indians were greatly alarmed on seeing us go on towards the point, and with much anxious intreaty prevailed on us to give up all thoughts of going to examine that part of the island. They repeated to us the signs of eating human flesh; and it is not to be doubted, but that this practice still prevails among them.47 Those who contend, that anthropophagy has the plea of the most cruel necessity, will hardly be able to account for its existence in a nation living in a rich and fertile country, having plenty of vegetable food, and likewise well provided with domestic animals. The principle of revenge seems much more likely to have produced this extraordinary custom, wherever it has been observed. Self-preservation is doubtless the first law of nature, and the passions are subservient to its purposes.48 In civilized communities we have tacitly consented to laws and regulations, and delegated to certain individuals the power to redress our wrongs; but among savages every man rights himself, and anger and revenge are implanted in his breast, to repress the injuries and oppressions of others. They are equally natural to him as the sentiments of general philanthropy; and however different and opposite these two impulses of nature may seem, yet they are springs, which by acting against each other, keep the whole system of human society in constant motion, and prevent its total subversion or corruption. A man wholly destitute of philanthropy is a monster, justly detested by all mankind; but another, entirely incapable of anger, is a sheepish wretch, liable to be insulted by every mean-spirited villain. A nation, or I may say a family, (as savages seldom live in greater communities), which has been frequently exposed to the attacks and insults of others, naturally contracts a degree of hatred and inveteracy against its oppressors, which renders its revenge more furious, unbounded, and, in our eyes, more cruel. If the enemy have used treacherous arts, they create distrust, and in the end form a malevolent disposition, which soon has recourse to the same baseness. At the least shadow of an injury they are up in arms, and threaten to bear down all before them: when they are actually provoked, they are ruled by no other law but that of the strongest, and exterminate their foes with a degree of fury, which is capable of the most horrid excesses [227] See vol. I. p. 173. . On the contrary, a nation, which has not experienced, or has long lost the remembrance of mischievous enemies, and inveterate broils, which, by applying to agriculture, has arrived to a degree of opulence, luxury, and civilization, and acquired new and refined ideas of philanthropy, is unaccustomed to the sudden overflowings of the bile, and slow to resent an affront [228] Ibid. p. 321. . The natives of Tanna doubtless are engaged, either in civil feuds with each other, or in frequent wars with the adjacent islanders; their reserved and distrustful behaviour towards us at first, and their custom of going constantly armed, seems clearly to prove the truth of this assertion. We have therefore, I think, great room to believe, that the violence of resentment has insensibly led them to the custom of eating human flesh, which they practise according to their own confession. But we must still remain utterly ignorant of the reasons which induced them to prohibit our access towards the eastern point of the harbour.

We turned back with our Indians to their great joy and satisfaction. They led us on by a path which we had never trodden before, through a variety of the richest plantations, kept in excellent order. The boys ran before us, and gave us repeated marks of their skill in warlike exercises. They slung a stone with great accuracy, and made use of a green reed, or stiff grass, in lieu of a dart. They had attained to such perfection in throwing the latter, that they never failed to hit their object, and knew to give the reed, which every breath of air might turn out of its way, so much force and moment, that it entered above an inch into the hardest wood. They poised it between the lowest joint of the thumb, and the hand, without touching it with a single finger. The youngest among them, five or six years old, already habituated themselves to this exercise, and thus prepared one day, to wield their arms with activity and effect.49 By various windings we came back to their habitations, where the women were employed in dressing their dinner. They had made a fire of a few sticks above ground, under the fig-tree, and broiled the roots of yams and eddoes over it. As soon as we arrived they were startled, and began to run away, but our conductors quieted them, and they continued their operations. We sat down on the trunk of a tree which lay before one of the houses, and endeavoured to talk with our new friends as well as we could, whilst some of them were gone to fetch us some refreshments. We collected a number of words of their language on this occasion, and had the pleasure to satisfy their curiosity respecting our dress, arms, and various implements, concerning which they had hitherto not ventured to ask a single question. The inhabitants of adjacent plantations hearing of our arrival, crouded about us, and seemed much pleased that they could converse amicably and familiarly with us. As I happened to hum a song, many of them very eagerly intreated me to sing to them, and though not one of us was properly acquainted with music, yet we ventured to gratify their curiosity, and in fact, offered them a great variety of different airs. Some German and English songs, especially of the more lively kind, pleased them very much; but Dr. Sparrman's Swedish tunes gained universal applause; from whence it appeared that their judgment of music was not influenced by the same rules which regulate the taste of other countries. When we had performed, we desired them in return to give us an opportunity of admiring their talents, and one of them immediately began a very simple tune; it was however harmonious, and, as far as we could judge, superior to the music of all the nations in the tropical part of the South Sea, which we had hitherto heard. It ran through a much more considerable compass of notes, than is employed at Taheitee, or even at Tonga-Tabboo; and had a serious turn which distinguished it very remarkably from the softer effeminate music of those islands.50 The words seemed to be metrically arranged, and slowed very currently from the tongue. When the first had finished his song, another began; his tune was different as to the composition, but had the same serious style which strongly marked the general turn of the people. They were indeed seldom seen to laugh so heartily, and jest so facetiously, as the more polished nations of the Friendly and Society Islands, who have already learnt to set a great value on these enjoyments. Our friendly natives likewise produced a musical instrument, which consisted of eight reeds, like the syrinx of Tonga-Tabboo, with this difference, that the reeds regularly decreased in size, and comprehended an octave, though the single reeds were not perfectly in tune.51 We might perhaps have had an opportunity of hearing them play on this instrument, had not the arrival of some of their brethren with a present of coco-nuts, yams, sugar-canes, and figs, obliged us in civility to transfer our attention from the musicians, to those who brought us such a valuable gift. And here I cannot but lament, that the ingenious and obliging friend,52 who communicated to me his remarks on the music of the Friendly Islands, of Taheitee and New Zeeland, did not likewise visit the island of Tanna, which in that respect would doubtless have furnished him with some curious and useful observations.

If we have before observed the principle of revenge to have been active among the natives of Tanna, we must allow at the same time, that benevolence, and a love of the fellow-creature, are not entirely banished from their hearts. As there is the greatest reason to suppose, that their life is frequently disturbed by the troubles of war, we cannot be surprised at the distrust which they all expressed towards us, on the first days of our acquaintance; but as soon as they were thoroughly convinced of our harmless intentions, they naturally gave way to a contrary impulse, which nothing but the necessity of self-preservation could have silenced so long. They did not indeed trade with us, because their affluence is not yet equal to that of the Taheitians; but hospitality does not consist in exchanging an article of which you have more than a sufficiency, for another of which you stand greatly in need.53

Having made various presents to our friends, to the best of our abilities, we returned down to the beach, and passed some time among the natives who were there assembled. We observed more women among them this day, than we had found before; most of them were married, and carried their children in a mat-satchel on their backs. Some had baskets of a close texture, made of pliant sticks, in which they brought a brood of young chickens, whilst others had yamboos, and figs, which they presented to us. Among the rest, we saw one who had a whole basket full of green oranges, though on all our excursions we had never found a single orange-tree in the plantations. However, we were much pleased to have seen this fruit at Tanna, as well as at Mallicollo, there being great room to suppose, that it is likewise a production of the intermediate islands. We were fortunate in little acquisitions to-day; another woman gave us a pye or pudding, of which the crust or dough was made of bananas, and eddoes; and the contents were the leaves of the okra ( hibiscus esculentus) mixed up with the kernel of a coco-nut. This pudding was exceedingly well-tasted, and shewed that the women are well skilled in cookery. We also purchased several pipes of eight reeds, which the natives brought for sale, and some bows, arrows, and clubs; with all which we returned on board, rather later in the day than usual.54

After dinner we came on shore again, to be present at hauling the seine; however, when we arrived on the beach, we separated, and Dr. Sparrman went up the flat hill with me, to pay another visit to the natives. Some of them met us about half way, and conducted us to the huts. We were no sooner seated with the father of one of the families, a middle-aged man, of a promising countenance, than our friends importuned us to sing to them again. We readily complied with their request, and when they seemed to wonder at the difference in our songs, we endeavoured to make them comprehend that we were natives of different countries. Hearing this, they pointed at an elderly thin man in the circle of our hearers, and telling us that he was a native of Irromanga [229] The last island from whence we came to Tanna. , desired him to sing to us. The man immediately stepped forward, and began a song, in the course of which he made a variety of gesticulations, not only to our entertainment, but to the great satisfaction of all the people about him. His song was to the full as musical as that of the people of Tanna, but it seemed to be of a droll or humorous nature, from his various ludicrous postures., and from the particular tone of the whole. The language was utterly distinct from that of Tanna, but not harsh or ill-suited to music. It seemed likewise to have a certain metre, but very different from that slow and serious one which we heard this morning. It appeared to us, when he had done singing, that the people of Tanna spoke to him in his own language, but that he was not acquainted with theirs. Whether he came as a visitor, or had been taken prisoner, we could not determine; the natives however told us upon this occasion, that their best clubs, made of casuarina wood, came from Irromanga, so that it is probable they have an amicable intercourse, or carry on a kind of trade with the inhabitants of that island. We observed no remarkable characteristic difference in his features from those of the people of Tanna, and his custom of dressing, or rather ornamenting himself was the same. His hair was woolly, short, and therefore not divided into little queues. His temper was very chearful, and he appeared to be more inclined to mirth than any of the people of Tanna.

Whilst the native of Irromanga was singing, the women came out of their huts, and seated themselves in the little group which surrounded us. They were in general of a low stature, compared with the men, and wore shaggy petticoats, made of grasses and leaves, which lengthened according to their age.55 Such as had borne children, and seemed to be about thirty years old, had entirely lost all the feminine graces, and their petticoats descended to the ancles. Some young girls, about fourteen years of age, had very agreeable small features, and a smile which became more engaging, in proportion as their fears wore off. Their whole form was slender, their arms particularly delicate, but the bosom round and full, and the petticoats barely reaching to the knee. Their hair curling upon their heads, without being cut, or restrained into any particular form, had not a bad effect; and the green plantane leaf which they generally wore, instead of covering it from the sight, served rather to set off its black colour to advantage. They wore in their ears tortoise-shell rings; but we observed that the number of ornaments considerably encreased with age, the oldest and ugliest being loaded with necklaces, ear-rings, nose-jewels, and bracelets. It appeared to me that the women were not held in any esteem by the men, but obeyed upon the smallest sign; and according to the accounts of our waterers (See above, p. 292.) many were seen in the humiliating guise of drudges and beasts of burden. Perhaps the laborious tasks which they are forced to perform, contribute to lessen their stature, especially if they are disproportioned to their strength. It is the practice of all uncivilized nations to deny their women the common privileges of human beings, and to treat them as creatures inferior to themselves. The ideas of finding happiness and comfort in the bosom of a companion, only arise with a higher degree of culture.56 Where the mind is continually occupied with the means of self-preservation, there can be but little refined sentiment in the commerce of the sexes, and nothing but brutal enjoyment is known. Infirmity and meekness, instead of finding a protector in the savage, are commonly insulted and oppressed: the love of power is so natural to mankind, that they eagerly seize every opportunity to exercise their superiority over those who are unable to resist. The encrease of population necessarily brings on a greater degree of polish; the cares of self-preservation are in great measure removed from the individual to the community; affluence takes the place of want and indigence, and the mind more unemployed, takes pleasure in the more refined enjoyment of life; it gives a loose to a disposition for mirth and play, and learns to set a value on the amiable qualities of the sex. The savage is not wholly incapable of tenderness and affection; we trace them in the boy whilst he remains thoughtless and free from care [230] We may remember, that the attachment of the people at Tanna towards us, began with the rising generation. ; but as soon as he feels the urgent wants of his existence, every other sentiment or instinct is forced to lie dormant. We observed an instance of affection among the natives of Tanna this evening, which strongly proves that the passions and innate qualities of human nature are much the same in every climate. A little girl, about eight years old, of very agreeable features, peeped at us between the heads of the people who were seated on the ground. As soon as she found herself observed, she ran away to hide herself in the hut. I beckoned the child to come back, and shewed her a piece of Taheitee cloth, but I could not prevail on her to come and fetch it. Her father got up, and with some entreaty persuaded her to come to me. I took hold of her hand, and gave her the cloth, and a number of little ornaments. But I was overpaid by the pleasure of the father, the joy, the fondness which sparkled in his eyes, and lighted up his whole countenance.

We staid among these people till sunset, and were entertained with songs, and with a display of their skill. At our request they shot their arrows into the air, and at a mark. They did not force the arrow to any extraordinary height, but were very accurate marksmen at a short distance, as has been already observed. With their clubs they parried the darts of their antagonist, nearly in the same manner as I have described at Taheitee (See p. 104). They told us that all the clubs which have a lateral blade, like a fleam (See p. 280) are brought from the low island, which they call Immèr; but we could not learn whether they are manufactured there by the inhabitants, or whether the island is uninhabited, and they only visit it occasionally, to gather shells and to cut wood.57 Before we left the huts, the women had lighted several fires in and about them, and began to dress their suppers. The natives all huddled about these fires, and seemed to feel the evening air rather too cool for their naked bodies. Several of them had a swelling in the upper eye-lid, which we attributed in some measure to this practice of sitting in the smoak. It impeded their sight so much, that they were obliged to lean their heads backwards, till the eye was in a horizontal line with the object which they wished to behold. This complaint was the more remarkable, as it extended to several little boys five and six years old; from whence we suspected that it was perhaps propagated from one generation to another.58

When we arrived on the beach, almost all the natives had left it, and in a short time we were left entirely to ourselves. To us, who were provided with cloaths, the cool of the evening was delightful, and we rambled about the deserted woods till the twilight had entirely disappeared. A prodigious number of bats of a small size fluttered about us, coming out of every bush; but our endeavours to shoot at them were entirely unsuccessful, for we could not see them till they were close to us, and they were instantly out of sight again. Our people having replaced their nets in the boats, after toiling a long time with no other success than a dozen or two of fish, which all together might weigh thirty pounds, we embarked likewise, and returned on board to rest from our excursion.

The next morning captain Cook, Mr. Wales, Mr. Patton, and several other gentlemen, who were desirous to examine the volcano, set out with Dr. Sparrman, my father, myself, and two men, and walked up the hill on the west side of the bay. The weather was foggy, heavy, and sultry, but the volcano was quiet. We soon reached the solfatara, where the hot steam rose plentifully. The experiment to measure the degree of heat was repeated as on the 12th, with this difference, that the thermometer was entirely buried in the white earth where the vapour came up. After it had remained one minute in this state, it rose to 210°, which is nearly the heat of boiling water, and remained stationary there as long as we kept it in the hole, which was for the space of five minutes. As soon as it was taken out, it fell instantly to 95°, and gradually descended to 80°, where it had stood previous to the immersion. The perpendicular height of the first solfatara, above the level of the sea, is about 80 yards. We proceeded up the hill, and saw several extensive spots of ground which had been cleared of wood in order to be cultivated. The wretched tools of the natives, and the necessity of working very slowly with them, to which we had been witnesses on the other hill, convinced us that this piece of ground, which comprehended near two acres, must have required a great deal of labour and a long space of time to clear. We passed by some dwellings, but did not see a native stirring, till we came to another plantation in very good order, where a single man was planting some yams. He was at first a little startled at our appearance, but on asking him the way to the volcano, he pointed out a path and returned to his former employment. We saw some hogs and poultry in the neighbourhood of these houses, which were permitted to roam about unconfined; but perhaps the fences which the natives form round some of their plantations, may be intended to exclude the hogs. A little farther on we were met by two natives, who came out of an adjacent garden of bananas, and continued to walk with us. Coming to a place where the path divided, another man appeared in that part which led into the country, and with his uplifted dart prohibited our advancing that way. We told him we were desirous of going to the volcano, and he presently pointed out the other path to us, and went before to lead the way. As we advanced, we took notice that he continually counted over our number; and having brought us to a clear part of the hill, from whence a considerable space of country could be overlooked, we discovered that he had misled us, and attempted to bring us off our road. We therefore returned the same way we came, in spite of his signs, which he did not think proper to enforce at present with any hostile gestures. However, seeing us determined to proceed against his will, he blew with great force into his hand several times, and was soon answered by the sounding of several conchs on different parts of the hill. He now called out as loud as he could, and we plainly heard him mention how many there were of us, probably desiring his countrymen to assemble and oppose us. In the meanwhile we lost our road and came into a fine secluded dell, surrounded by trees of prodigious height and extent, where numbers of pigeons and parroquets fluttered about. We passed some time in shooting here, whilst several of the natives still continued with us, especially a couple of little boys, to whom we made some presents to gain their goodwill. From hence we proceeded into a dark path, which had many various windings, and at once opened upon a clear spot, surrounded by three or four houses of the same dimensions as those where old Paw-yangom dwelt. Here about a dozen men, well armed with bows and arrows, clubs and darts, were sitting on their hams in a row, who instantly started up at sight of us. We beckoned to them, and made signs that we meant no harm, but they seemed not to trust us entirely. Some elderly men among them seemed to have pacific intentions, but two or three young fellows frowned, and made several motions with their arms, which, though not exactly directed towards us, yet might have been construed into a provocation if we had been very irascible. We concluded it was best to return, and desired them to shew us the road to the sea. We could not have hit upon a better method of quieting their distrust and apprehensions at once. Some of them went before us down a narrow path, which was rather steep at first but became more easy afterwards. Having descended about a quarter of a mile, they desired us to stop and take some repose, and several of their brethren came to us loaded with coco-nuts, benanas, and abundance of sugar-canes. The sultriness of the weather made these refreshments very acceptable. We gave the Indians several presents in return, and were well pleased that it was only from distrust, and not real malevolence, that they had collected together to oppose our progress into the country. After a walk of half an hour we returned to the beach from whence we had set out, and happily ended an excursion which might, with a little more rashness on our part, have proved fatal not only to the natives, but, in the end, to ourselves. We were forced to give up all hopes of approaching the volcano; but it is surely adviseable to abandon a pursuit where knowledge cannot be obtained without bloodshed and injustice.

During our walk, our people had hauled the seine with the flood-tide, and obtained a small quantity of fish, among which we found a new species. The pond of fresh water likewise furnished us with a new sort of fish, and the seamen caught a number of mud eels in it. With these fish, and several new plants collected on the hill, we returned on board, and passed the afternoon in describing and drawing them.

[Monday 15.]We resumed our excursions into the country the next morning. The trade for yams and for the weapons of the natives was still carried on, but tortoise-shell was so scarce in the ship that we could make but a small purchase of provisions. The mother of pearl fish-hooks of the Friendly Islands, which had the barb of tortoise-shell, were in great request, and our seamen could sometimes obtain a handful of arrows for one of them; whereas another fish-hook, equally good, but with a mother of pearl barb, was not esteemed by the natives. We rambled about among the woods on the plain, and shot several birds, of which this island has a great variety. We also met with a number of East-Indian plants [231] The sterculia balanghas, sterculia fœtida, dioscorea oppositifolia,59 ricinus mappa, acanthus ilicifolius, ischœmum muticum, panicum dimidiatum, croton variegatum , and many others. which we had never observed in the more easterly islands. But the most valuable acquisition, in our opinion, was a pigeon, of the sort which is common at the Friendly Islands. This bird had the sides of its bill covered with a red substance, and, upon farther examination, had in its mouth and craw two nutmegs, recently swallowed. They were still surrounded by a scarlet coating, which was their mace, and had a bitter aromatic taste, but no smell. The nutmeg itself was considerably more oblong than the true spice of that name, but had likewise a very bitter and aromatic taste. We soon met with a native, to whom we shewed the fruit, and desired him to point out the tree on which it grew, offering him a mother of pearl shell for his trouble. He conducted us about half a mile up into the country to a young tree, which, as he affirmed, bore the nutmeg. We gathered its leaves, but saw no fruit, which the native said had all been eaten by the pigeons. The name of the fruit, in the language of the country, was guannatèn.60 We heard some muskets fired, which had an unusual report, and made us apprehensive that some disturbance had happened, especially as we thought we understood something to that purpose from the mouth of a native who passed by us coming from the beach. We therefore hastened to the sea-side, but soon found that every thing had been quiet there. However, shewing the leaves of the tree, which we had received as belonging to the nutmeg-tree, all the natives on the beach agreed in giving it a different name from that which our guide had told us, though he endeavoured to cover his deceit by telling his countrymen to name the leaf as he had done. We expressed strong marks of indignation at his behaviour, and the other natives likewise rebuked him.

In the afternoon captain Cook, with lieutenants Cooper and Pickersgill, Mr. Patton, Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myself, went upon the flat hill to the eastward, and passed through the plantation to the sea-shore on the other side. The Isle of Anattom, which the captain was particularly desirous to see, was for the greatest part involved in haze. We returned therefore leisurely through other gardens, shooting several birds, till we came to the huts of our friendly Indians. The father of the child which I mentioned on page 325, brought me a present of bananas, sugar-canes, and coco-nuts, and thus confirmed us in the good opinion we had formed of his sensibility. Mr. Hodges made several sketches of views, and particularly drew this little farm, with a group of natives of both sexes, seated under the shady branches of the fig-tree. From thence he afterwards composed an elegant picture, which is engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage, and gives a perfect idea of the island of Tanna, and its inhabitants. Towards sun-set we returned on board.

[Tuesday 16.]The next morning we came ashore again, and immediately walked into the woods on the plain. We saw a great number of large and beautiful parroquets, of black, red, and yellow plumage; but they kept on the tops of the highest fig-trees, where they were wholly out of the reach of small shot, guarded by the thick foliage. The size of these trees can scarcely be imagined. Their roots grow above ground a considerable part of their length, and converge together into one enormous stem about ten or twelve feet above the surface. This stem which is frequently no less than three yards in diameter, seems to consist of several trees grown together, which form every where sharp longitudinal angles, projecting above three feet from the main body. Thus it rises thirty or forty feet, before it divides into branches, which are above a yard in diameter. These run up nearly to the same height without dividing, and the summit of the tree is at least one hundred and fifty feet high. The place where they were most frequent, was a marsh or swamp, occasioned by several branches of the same pond, which we supplied our ship with fresh water. We were not able to determine whether this pond is the remains of a river, coming from the inland mountains, and losing itself in the volcanic sand and ashes which cover the plain; or whether it is only the produce of the rains in the summer months. It had innumerable quantities of musketoes which were very troublesome to us, and was likewise the abode of rails and ducks, of which we could never obtain any, though they appeared to be of a new species. We walked on through the plain, keeping on its western part, and crossed several spots, which being covered with grasses, resembled our meadows, but were much overun with bind-weeds, and separated from each other by wild shrubberies which had the effect of hedges. Now and then we met with great spots entirely covered with tall reeds ( saccharum spontaneum, Linn.) which we could hardly imagine to have grown in such great quantities without cultivation. They supply the natives with shafts for their arrows, and are made use of in basket-work, fences, &c. Beyond these fields we came into a forest, consisting of trees of the same sort with those which cover the western shores of the bay. Here we shot a species of wild dove hitherto unknown to naturalists, and saw some parroquets, which were excessively shy, and may perhaps be scared by the natives, whose orchards they infest. Advancing still farther we came into a hollow road, which appeared to have been formed by a current of water, but was perfectly dry at present, and served as a path to the natives. Its sides were fringed in the most beautiful manner with shrubberies and palms; and in one part a huge venerable fig-tree ( ficus religiosa, Linn.) of the same sort to which the Cinghalese and natives of Malabar pay a particular regard [232] They make sacrifices under its shade, where some of their divinities are said to have been born. , struck its roots into both sides, and formed an astonishing vaulted arch over the lane, which was at least five yards wide. A prodigious number of birds, of a very diminutive size, fluttered about on its uppermost branches, and picked off the fruit. We rested some time under its shade, whilst several natives passed by, who did not express the least uneasiness at sight of us, and with perfect unconcern heard our fowling-pieces fired at birds. Towards noon we returned to the sea side, and though the weather was very hot, yet as we walked almost continually in the shade, we felt no inconvenience. Before we came to the watering-place, we passed through a shrubbery, where we found a native at work cutting sticks, on which the climbing stalks of the yams ( dioscorea oppositifolia) are supported. Seeing that he cut them very slowly with his hatchet, which had only a bit of shell in lieu of a blade, we began to help him with an English hatchet, and in a few minutes cut a much greater heap than he had done the whole day. The natives who were now frequently passing, as the hour of their meals was at hand, stood still, and expressed the greatest astonishment at the extreme utility of this tool, and some were very desirous to possess it, by offering their bows and arrows for it. We thought this was a favourable opportunity to encourage them to part with their hogs, and told them we would exchange our hatchet for one of these animals; but they were deaf to this proposal, and never sold us a single hog during our stay. Having shewn them the wild nutmeg which we had found in the pigeon's craw the day before, one of them produced three others, which were wrapped in their mace, but could not point out the tree on which they grew. They gave these nuts several different names, and told us they grew on a tree called neerash.61 On having recourse to our books, we found that this species has some resemblance to the wild nutmeg of Rumphius, and seems to be exactly the same with a sort which is found in the Philipinas. The pigeon which feeds upon it at Tanna is the same which Rumphius describes as the disseminator of the true nutmeg at the Spice Islands, and we had the honour of presenting one alive to her majesty.

We found a very old decrepit man sitting on the beach whom we had never seen before. Many among the croud told us his name was Yogàï, and that he was their areekee.62 He was of a tall stature, but very lean and worn out; his face was wrinkled, his head almost entirely bald, and what little hair remained was perfectly grey. There was however an expression of kindness in his features, which preserved the vestiges of a former manly beauty. Near him sat another person, who might have passed for an old man, if he had not been in company with the former. The rest of the people told us he was the son of Yogàï, and named Yatta. He was likewise a tall man, but well-proportioned, and remarkably well-featured for a native of Tanna. His hair was black, frizzled, and almost woolly, but not dressed; and he had a very engaging, sensible look, which expressed great good-nature towards the strangers. The natives acquainted us that he was the koù-vosh,63 which we suppose to be a title perhaps equivalent to such expressions as " successor, heir, prince of the blood," and the like, which are used in civilized countries. As their colour was exactly the same with that of the common people, for they were both of a very blackish or sooty complexion, we took particular care to examine whether there was any difference between their ornaments and those of the rest of the natives; but all the distinction which we could observe, consisted in the kind of sash, or cloth, which they wore round their body as a belt. The sashes of the common people were of an uniform cinnamon, or brownish-yellow colour; but these two chiefs wore them painted with black lines, and chequered with compartments of black and red: however, it is not improbable that even this variation is merely accidental, and by no means considered as a mark of royalty by the natives. Upon the whole, no deference was paid to these two persons, if we except the title of chiefs, with which they were distinguished. We never observed either of them to issue any command, and it is very probable that their orders are only obeyed in time of war. At such a period, the people readily give up their judgment to the experience of hoary age, and follow its counsels instead of laws. They implicitly trust their lives and fortunes to the conduct of a man, whose superior valour, and consummate art, they acknowledge with one common voice. We made them some trifling presents, and gave them an invitation to come on board, which they declined. We then embarked in one of the boats, in order to go to dinner. Our people brought off a great quantity of clubwood ( casuarina) from the shore, having cut down a stately tree of this sort, which grew upon the edge of the flat hill.64 They began to saw it the preceding afternoon; but Paw-yangom came to captain Cook to complain, because this tree is highly valued at Tanna, and so very scarce, that they are obliged to go to Irromanga, where it grows more plentifully, in order to supply themselves with clubs. Captain Cook immediately ordered the workmen to leave it; but afterwards finding that it was cut so far that it could not grow any more, he gave the old man a dog, a quantity of Taheitee cloth, and several other articles, for which he agreed that we should take the tree, and the inhabitants in his neighbourhood seemed perfectly satisfied. Paw-yangom, no doubt, was a man of some weight among the people who dwelt on the flat hill, and it is not unlikely that his age alone had entitled him to some deference. The government of the people of Tanna seems to be in its infant state, and every family is guided by the advice of the oldest men, their patriarchs, who never exercise their authority in a severe or tyrannical manner.

We returned into the woods again after dinner, but made an unsuccessful excursion, having now searched the same spots almost every day since our arrival on the island. The [Wednesd. 17.]next morning we renewed our rambles, in hopes of meeting by accident with the nutmeg-tree. We passed some time in a fine plantation of bananas close to the western corner of the beach, where a number of parrots destroyed the fruit; but they were so extremely shy, that we attempted in vain to come at them. Having taken a long walk into the country, during which we frequently separated from each other to a considerable distance, as we had now nothing to apprehend from the inhabitants, we came back to the beach. We found the last boat ready to put off, and returned to the ship, where we found the old chief Yogaï, his son Yatta, and a well-made boy, about fourteen years old, named Narrep, who appeared to be nearly related to them. They were all seated on the floor of the cabin when we came in, and captain Cook had given them a variety of presents of all kinds. The old man had received them with the indifference natural at his age; but his son, and above all the boy Narrep, were extremely well pleased with the civilities which had been shewn them. We invited them to dinner, and they ate of some yams, but would not touch any other food, behaving nearly as Fanòkko, our former visitor, had done (See p. 288). As soon as we had dined, we embarked with them, and brought them to the beach, where the other natives conversed with them, and seemed to be highly pleased with the deference which we had paid to their chiefs. The number of natives on the beach now rarely ever amounted to one hundred, including women and children, who commonly sat down in several groups under the shade of the bushes. From time to time they brought us a yam or a bunch of bananas, for which they took Taheitee cloth in exchange. The women sometimes had baskets full of yamboo apples, ( eugenia,) which they sold for trifles, such as small bits of green nephritic stone, black beads, and the like, and, as it seemed, more to shew their good will, than from any value which they set upon those articles. The civility of the natives was, upon the whole, very conspicuous towards us. If they met us in a narrow path, they always stepped aside into the bushes and grasses in order to make way for us. If they happened to know our names, they pronounced them with a smile, which could be extremely well understood as a salutation; or, if they had not seen us before, they commonly enquired our names in order to know us again. On the beach we had for some days left off stretching ropes to reserve a clear spot for our waterers and woodcutters; only a centry was placed on each side, beyond whom they never ventured to advance, unless they came fresh from the country, and were unacquainted with our regulations. In short, the change which our little stay among them had wrought in their opinion of us was already very remarkable, and continued every day to turn more in our favour. Yogaï and Yatta, with Narrep and several other natives, left the beach very soon, and returned through the woods to their own homes, which they pointed at as far distant from the bay. As soon as they were gone, captain Cook went in his boat with us to the people who loaded ballast under the western hill. Here we examined the hot-springs which we had discovered on the 9th, having taken a thermometer for that purpose, which had stood at 78° on board the ship, but being carried close to the body had risen to 83°. When the bulb was plunged into the hot-spring the mercury rose to 191° in the space of five minutes. We then took it out, and enlarged the hole by clearing away the sand and stones, through which the water oozed and ran into the sea. Having replaced the thermometer so that it was immerged considerably above the the bulb, it rose again to 191°, and continued there upwards of ten minutes longer. We threw some small shell-fish into the spring, and they were boiled in two or three minutes. A piece of silver, after lying in the water above half an hour, came out perfectly bright and untarnished. Salt of tartar had no visible effect upon it; but still, as we observed a kind of astringency in its taste, we filled a bottle with it, and shut it up close, in order to make more accurate and complicated experiments with it after our return [233] This bottle, full of the same water, is still in my father's possession. . We observed a great number of little fishes, not above two inches long, skipping about the wet rocks like lizards, to which they bore a great resemblance. Their pectoral fins performed the functions of feet, and their eyes were placed near the summit of the head, in order to guard them against all their enemies when they are out of the water. These little amphibious animals were indeed so cautious and so nimble at the same time, that it was with great difficulty we caught them. They could leap the length of a yard with great ease, and belonged to the genus of blennies. The same or a similar species of fish had been observed on the coast of New Holland by captain Cook in the Endeavour [234] See Hawkesworth, vol. III. p. 529. . In one place we found them very active in destroying a brood of minute young crickets, which appeared to have been washed out of a crevice in the rock.

[Thursday 18.] Captain Cook set out again with us the next morning, to examine the hot springs at low water, the experiments of the preceding day being made during flood-tide, about half past four o'clock. We immersed the thermometer, which in the open air had stood at 78°, and the quick-silver rose to 187°, after lying one minute and a half in the hot water. This difference, from the former heat of 191°, was rather surprising, especially as the springs issued so near the level of the sea, that some of them were covered at high water, might therefore be expected to be cooled by the mixture. We concluded that some other cause besides the tides influenced the relative heat of these springs, and we were confirmed in this supposition by examining another spring which came out upon the great beach to the south, at its westermost corner. Here, at the foot of a perpendicular rock, forming part of the mountain to the west, on which the solfataras were situated, the hot water bubbles up out of the black sand, and runs into the sea, which likewise covers it at the flood-tide. In the space of a minute the thermometer, after being placed in this new spring, rose to 202 1/2°, and remained at this degree several minutes. It should seem that these springs are heated by the volcano, and run under ground till they find an issue. The fire of that mountain in all probability is not always equally violent, and gradually cools in the intervals between its eruptions. Different parts of it may likewise have various degrees of heat, and the different springs, by passing over a longer or shorter space, must lose more or less of their original heat. The solfataras on the hill directly above these springs, are in my opinion connected with them; and the steam which rises from thence, through subterraneous crevices, may be part of the same water, ascending before it can be condensed into a continued fluid, by the coolness of the ground over which it is carried. The volcano had been quiet for two days past, and offered no new phӕnomena, from whence any of these circumstances might have been better explained.

We passed the day before and after noon, in the plain behind the watering-place, and collected the flowers of an unknown sort of tree, which we could obtain no other way, than by shooting at them. In the evening the seine was hauled, and we caught about two hundred weight of fish, which afforded another, though rather scanty fresh meal to the whole ship's company. Dr. Sparrman went up the flat hill with me, where we passed about half an hour very agreeably with our friends the natives, who made us a present of fruit at parting. We amused them as usual by singing to them, and they became so familiar at last as to point out some girls to us, whom from an excess of hospitality not uncommon with uncivilized nations, they offered to their friends with gestures not in the least equivocal. The women, at the first hint of the civility which the men intended to confer upon us, ran off to a great distance seemingly much frightened, and shocked at their indelicacy. Our Indians, and particularly the young people, were very desirous that we should pursue the girls, whether only to frighten them or not, we could not ascertain. However, they seemed to be very well pleased, that we did not take the hint; and we parted from them, after distributing several presents, and especially some mother of pearl hooks with tortoise-shell barbs.

[Friday 19.]The next morning we were ready for sailing, having taken in a sufficient quantity of ballast, wood, and fresh-water; only the wind, which blew right into the harbour, prevented our putting to sea. We went on shore after breakfast, with the captain, and a party of people; and he continued to trade with the natives, whilst we went into the country. We soon separated, and each of us went by himself to a different part. I passed by a number of natives in their way to the beach; but they all stepped out of the path to make room for me, though I was without any companion, and not one of them attempted with a look or gesture to offend me. I strolled alone several miles in the back of the flat hill, or in the valley along its south-side, to a part where I had never been before. The path which I followed was hid in the thickest groves, from whence I could only now and then discern the extensive plantations which covered the whole slope of the hill. Here I frequently saw the natives employed in cutting down trees, or pruning them, or digging up the ground with a branch of a tree, instead of a spade, or planting yams, and other roots; and in one place, I heard a man singing at his work, nearly the same tune which they used to sing to us on the hill. The prospect which I beheld was so pleasing, that it did not fall much short of the beautiful scenes of Taheitee. It had this advantage besides, that all the country about me to a great distance, consisted of gentle elevations, and spacious vallies, all which were capable of culture; whereas at Taheitee the mountains rose immediately craggy, wild, and majestic from the plain, which has no where the breadth of two miles. The plantations at Tanna consist, for the greatest part of yams, bananas, eddoes, and sugar-canes, all which being very low [235] The tallest banana tree does not exceed ten feet, and in general they are about six feet high. , permit the eye to take in a great extent of country. Single tufted trees rise in different places, and amuse the beholder with a variety of romantic forms. The whole summit of the level hill which bounds a part of the horizon, apppears shaggy with little groves, where a number of lofty palms rise over the rest of the trees.

Those who are capable of being delighted with the beauties of nature, which deck the globe for the gratification of man, may conceive the pleasure which is derived from every little object, trifling in itself, but important in the moment when the heart is expanded, and when a kind of blissful trance opens a higher and purer sphere of enjoyment.65 Then we behold with rapture the dark colour of lands fresh prepared for culture, the uniform verdure of meadows, the various tints upon the foliage of different trees, and the infinite varieties in the abundance, form, and size of the leaves. Here these varieties appeared in all their perfection, and the different exposure of the trees to the sun added to the magnificence of the view. Some reflected a thousand dancing beams, whilst others formed a broad mass of shadow, in contrast with the surrounding world of light. The numerous smokes which ascended from every grove on the hill, revived the pleasing impressions of domestic life; nay my thoughts naturally turned upon friendship and national felicity, when I beheld large fields of plantanes all round me, which, loaded with golden clusters of fruit, seemed to be justly chosen the emblems of peace and affluence. The cheerful voice of the labouring husbandman resounded very opportunely to complete this idea. The landscape to the westward was not less admirable than that of which I have just now spoken. The rich plain was bounded on that side by a vast number of fertile hills, covered with forests, interspersed with plantations, and beyond them rose a ridge of high mountains, not inferior to those of the Society Islands, though apparently of a much easier slope. The solitary spot from whence I beheld this rural scene was likewise favoured by nature. It was a delightful cluster of trees, which climbers and bindweeds decked with odoriferous blossoms. The richness of the soil was here extremely remarkable; for though I beheld many palms which the winds had thrown down [236] The roots of the coco-palm are naturally extremely short, and consist of innumerable fibres; but at Tanna the soil, though rich and fertile, is so extremely loose, that it does not require a great storm to overturn the trees which grow in it. , yet most of them bent their summits upwards from the ground, and sent forth new shoots with surprising luxuriance. Their branches were the resort of various birds, adorned with the brightest colours, which now and then struck the ear with an unexpected song not destitute of harmony. The serenity of the air, and the coolness of the breeze, contributed to make my situation still more agreeable. The mind at rest, and lulled by this train of pleasing ideas, indulged a few fallacious reflections, which encreased its happiness at that instant by representing mankind in a favourable light. We had now passed a fortnight amidst a people who received us with the strongest symptoms of distrust, and who prepared to repel every hostile act with vigour. Our cool deliberate conduct, our moderation, and the constant uniformity in all our proceedings, had conquered their jealous fears. They, who in all probability had never dealt with such a set of inoffensive, peaceable, and yet not despicable men; they who had been used to see in every stranger a base and treacherous enemy, now learnt from us to think more nobly of their fellow-creatures. Prudence, which accompanied the civilized voyagers, had no sooner fascinated the instinct of the savages, watchful for their safety, than another, no less powerful, awoke in their breast, and taught them to relish the sweets of society. They shared the abundant produce of their soil with their new acquaintance, being no longer apprehensive that they would take it by force. They permitted us to visit them in their shady recesses, and we sat down in their domestic circles with that harmony which befits the members of one great family. In a few days they began to feel a pleasure in our conversation, and a new disinterested sentiment, of more than earthly mould, even friendship, filled their heart. This retrospect was honourable to human nature, as it made us the benefactors of a numerous race. I fell from hence into a reverie on the pre-eminence of our civilized society, from which I was roused by the sound of approaching steps. I turned about and saw Dr. Sparrman, to whom I pointed out the prospect and communicated my ideas. We agreed in our sentiments, and set out on our return, as the hour of noon was approaching. The first native whom we met ran out of the way and hid himself in a bush. The next was a woman at the entrance of a plantation, to whom we appeared so unexpectedly, that she had no time to escape. She offered us a basket full of yamboos, with a trembling hand, and with all the expressions of fear strongly marked in her countenance. We were surprised at this behaviour, and giving her some small trifles proceeded in our way. A number of men stood behind the bushes in and about the plantation, and made signs to us to walk on by waving their hands towards the beach. At last, when we stepped out of the wood, we beheld two natives seated on the grass, holding one of their brethren dead in their arms. They pointed to a wound in his side, which had been made by a musket-ball, and with a most affecting look they told us " he is killed [237] In their language they express this more strikingly by one word, markom.66 ." We looked hastily towards the station of our people, and seeing them deserted by the natives, hurried to join them, and learn the particulars of this shocking event. A sentinel had been posted as usual to keep the natives at a distance from our party, but the sailors took the liberty of walking and trading freely among them. A native, who in all likelihood had never been on the beach before, came through the croud and began to walk across the space which our people occupied. The sentry pushed him back among the rest of his brethren, who were already accustomed to this injurious treatment, and acquiesced in it. The new-comer, however, refused to be controuled on his own island by a stranger; he prepared once more to cross the area, perhaps with no other motive at present than that of asserting his liberty of walking where he pleased. The sentry drove him back once more, with a rude thrust sufficient to rouse a man much less irascible than a savage. He, to vindicate his right, laid an arrow on his bow, which he aimed at the aggressor; but the soldier instantly levelled his musket and shot him dead. Captain Cook landed in the same moment; he saw the native fall, and many of his countrymen running off to hide themselves from the cruel and treacherous people who had polluted their island. He commanded the soldier to be loaded with irons, and sent him on board the ship. He next endeavoured to appease the natives, and the natural excellence of the human heart is such, that several, especially those who came from the flat eastern hill, were persuaded to stay, and once more to trust those who had so grievously violated the laws of hospitality. Dr. Sparrman and myself were struck with the moderation of the people, who had suffered us to pass by them unmolested, when they might easily have taken a severe revenge for the murder of their countryman. We went on board with captain Cook, greatly apprehensive for the safety of my father, who still remained in the woods, accompanied by a single sailor. We had, however, the satisfaction to see him safe about a quarter of an hour after, among the party of marines who were left on the beach to protect some of our water-casks. A boat was immediately sent off, which brought him on board. He had met with the same good treatment from the natives as ourselves; they had learnt to know our disposition, and seemed to be too good tempered to confound the innocent with the guilty. Thus one dark and detestable action effaced all the hopes with which I had flattered myself. The natives, instead of looking upon us in a more favourable light than upon other strangers, had reason to detest us much more, as we came to destroy under the specious mask of friendship; and some amongst us lamented that instead of making amends at this place for the many rash acts which we had perpetrated at almost every island in our course, we had wantonly made it the scene of the greatest cruelty. Captain Cook resolved to punish the marine with the utmost rigour for having transgressed his positive orders, according to which the choleric emotions of the savage were to be repressed with gentleness, and prudently suffered to cool. But the officer who commanded on shore, declared that he had not delivered these orders to the sentry, but given him others which imported, that the least threat was to be punished with immediate death. The soldier was therefore immediately cleared, and the officer's right to dispose of the lives of the natives remained uncontroverted.67

We came on shore again after dinner, where our people hauled the seine, and caught a few fish. The natives on the beach were very few in number, and chiefly without arms; the murder of their countryman seemed to be forgotten, or at least they seemed to have forgiven it in their hearts. My father, with Dr. Sparrman and myself, walked about on the plain, and shot some birds. We only met a single native, who at sight of us immediately struck into a different path, and walked very swiftly to escape us. We called to him, and making all the friendly signs which we could invent, at last prevailed on him to turn back. He approached us with distrust and apprehension marked in every gesture; however, by making him some presents, his fears were removed, mutual confidence took place, and we parted very good friends. It was late in the evening when we left the shore with all our people.

[Saturday 20.]Early in the morning several canoes of the natives got under sail, and went out of the harbour. Their form resembled that of the canoes at the Friendly Islands, but with this difference, that the workmanship was very inferior at Tanna. They have out-riggers to all their canoes, and some may contain twenty people. Their sails were low triangular mats, of which the broadest part is uppermost, and the sharp angle below. A long piece of timber, hollowed out in the middle, forms the bottom of the canoe, and upon this one or two planks are fixed, forming the two sides, by means of ropes of the coco-nut fibres. These ropes are drawn through the round holes in several knobs on the inside of the planks, by which means the latter are not pierced with a single hole. Their oars are ill-shaped, and very clumsily made. It seems the fabrick of a boat is so tedious an enterprize to people who are in a continual state of warfare, that they cannot spend much time in polishing the timbers, and giving them that perfection and elegance, which is conspicuous in the manufactures of the Friendly Islands.

The wind being favourable to our departure at present, we weighed the anchor, and set sail, after a stay of sixteen days. The island of Tanna is situated in 19° 30' S. lat. and 169° 38' E. long. and I believe does not exceed twenty-four leagues in circuit. A clayey sort of stone, mixed with pieces of chalk-stones, forms most of the rocks which we examined. It is commonly of a brownish or yellowish colour, and lies in strata nearly horizontal, about six inches thick. In a few places we observed a soft black stone, composed of the ashes and sherls thrown up by the volcano, mixed with clay, or with a sort of tripoly, which is called rotten-stone by some miners. This substance sometimes forms alternate strata with the black stone. The same volcanic sand, mixed with vegetable mold, forms the rich soil of this island, on which, as I have already mentioned, all vegetables thrive with uncommon luxuriance. The volcano which burns on the island, doubtless works a great change in its mineral productions, and might perhaps have afforded some new observations, if the jealousy of the natives had not continually prevented our examining it. We found native sulphur in the white earth which covers the solfataras, from whence the aqueous streams arise. The taste of this earth was strongly aluminous, and it may perhaps be impregnated with particles of that salt. We likewise met with a red bolus near these places, and observed a white selenitic stone among the natives, which they wear as an ornament in the cartilage between the nostrils. We found some specimens of strong lavas; but as we could not come near the volcano, we never met with them in any quantity. The hot springs have a kind of astringency in the taste, which gives us some reason to suspect that they contain mineral particles; but we had no opportunity to make experiments on board with the water which we brought from thence. The only remark of any consequence, is a confirmation of a former well-known fact with regard to volcanos, viz. that these burning mountains are not always the highest in the whole ridge, as in Peru and Sicily, but that they sometimes break out in a secondary ridge, and are even of an inconsiderable height. As there are instances in the Açores, and in the Archipelago, that volcanic eruptions have forced their way through the sea from the unfathomable bottom, this circumstance would be of less consequence, if it had not disagreed with the opinion of the great naturalist, M. de Buffon.68 He asserts, that the highest mountains alone are the seat of volcanic fires, being desirous to remove these fires as far from the centre of the earth as possible. Another observation which we made seems to prove, that the eruptions commonly succeeded after showers of rain; but so short a stay as ours is insufficient to give this remark its necessary weight, though it coincides with the conjectures which have hitherto been made concerning the causes of subterraneous fires. The vegetable productions of Tanna are very rich and various. The forests are filled with plants, of which a great number were new to us, and some were species hitherto known only in the East Indian islands. The cultivated grounds likewise contain a great variety of plants which are unknown in the Society and Friendly Islands, and no less than forty different species are cultivated. Among the spontaneous plants, we ought particularly to repeat the mention of the nutmeg, in defence of Quiros's veracity, who asserts that he found it in Tierra del Espiritù Santo, which doubtless belongs to this group of islands. Whether oranges are cultivated, or grow wild, is uncertain, as we never met with a single tree that bore them, but were obliged to content ourselves with the fruit, which the women sometimes sold to us.

The animal creation in Tanna is likewise numerous and beautiful. Shells indeed are scarce upon the coast, and the natives go in quest of them to other islands, setting some value also upon large mother of pearl shells. Fish, on the contrary, are numerous, and in great variety: with the seine and hook we caught mullet ( mullus), Brasilian pike, garfish, dolphins, cavalhas, parrot-fish, sting-rays, toothless-rays, angel-fish, sharks, and sucking-fish, as well as several species of mackrel and mullet ( mugil). The woods contained a variety of birds, especially several sorts of pigeons, parroquets, and fly-catchers. Among the latter we found a species which is likewise to be met with in New Zeeland. The Ceylanese owl, a species of creeper, a sort of duck, and a purple water-hen, were likewise seen; but all in general were remarkably shy, which seems to indicate their being pursued by the natives. The only tame fowls are the common cock and hen; and the only domestic quadrupeds are hogs. Rats and bats, both which I have already mentioned, form the only two wild species of quadrupeds.

Tanna, thus well supplied by nature, and blessed with the mild influence of a tropical climate, contains a race of men in a much inferior state of civilization, than the natives of the Friendly and Society Islands, who live nearly in the same parallel, but to the eastward. I am of opinion, we rate the population of Tanna very high, when we suppose it to amount to twenty thousand persons.69 The plantations seems to bear a small proportion to the wild forests, wherever we walked about in the island, only excepting the flat hill along the eastern shore of the bay, which is indeed the richest spot I ever beheld in the South Seas. The excellence of the soil, instead of being an advantage to cultivation in its infant state, is rather of disservice; as all kinds of wild trees, bushes and weeds, are with the greatest difficulty rooted out, and propagate with luxuriance, either from seeds, or from the roots. Cultivated vegetables, being of a more weakly and delicate nature, are easily oppressed and suffocated by the indigenous wild tribes, till repeated labours succeed at last to bring them to a flourishing state. These two circumstances together strongly indicate, that the nation which inhabits Tanna is not very numerous, in proportion to the extent of that island. The people seem to live dispersed in small villages, consisting of a few families; and their constant custom of going armed is a certain sign that they formerly had, and probably still have, wars with neighbouring islanders, or quarrels amongst themselves. If I might venture a conjecture, founded upon the languages which we heard spoken in the island, I should suppose that several tribes of different nations have peopled the island of Tanna, and may have disputed the possession of the ground with each other. Besides the common language of the island,70 and besides a dialect of that of the Friendly Islands, we collected some words of a third language, chiefly current among the inhabitants of its western hills; and we particularly obtained the numerals of all the three tongues, which are indeed totally distinct. In the common language of Tanna, we met with two or three words, which have a clear affinity with the language of Mallicollo, and about the same number correspond with some words of the Malay; but in general they are wholly unlike each other, and related to no other tongue that I know of. There is a strong kind of aspiration, and a guttural sound, in many words at Tanna, which are, however, very sonorous and full of vowels, and therefore easily pronounced.

The small size of the islands in the South Sea, and the want of wild quadrupeds on them, have totally prevented their first settlers from living by the chace, the usual occupation of savages.71 This confined space likewise did not allow them to breed numerous herds of domestic animals, and obliged them to have recourse to the cultivation of the soil for their immediate subsistence, especially when they could not support themselves by fishing. It has been the salutary consequence of this early application to rural œconomy, to facilitate civilization. All the nations of tropical islands in the South Sea have fixed habitations, and it is only the degree of elegance and convenience which distinguishes their different progress in culture. The people of Tanna do not appear, according to this standard, to be far advanced; their houses are mere sheds, which barely cover them from the inclemency of the weather. Dress, another distinguishing character of civilization, is as yet entirely unknown to them; and in the place of cleanliness, which every where renders mankind agreeable to each other, we observed divers sorts of paint and grease. They seem however to be in great forwardness towards receiving a greater polish. Their food is much varied by the arts of cookery which the women put in practice; they roast or broil the yams and bananas; they stew the green leaves of a kind of fig, and of the okra ( hibiscus esculentus), they bake puddings made of a paste of bananas and eddoes, containing a mixture of coco-nut kernel and leaves, and they likewise eat several sorts of ripe fruits, without any preparation. Their poultry and hogs doubtless supply them at times with animal food; and from time to time they catch fish and birds, which very probably are reckoned dainties. If the taste for a variety of food becomes more general and violent, agriculture, arts, and manufactures will be carried on with greater spirit, as far as they are subservient to the pleasure of the palate, and one refinement still must give birth to another. The heaviest task becomes light and amusing, as soon as it is undertaken from our own inclination, and for the gratification of our senses. The domestic life of the people of Tanna is not wholly destitute of amusements; they are at present indeed of a more serious turn than the civilized nations of the Friendly and Society Islands, and the more savage inhabitants of Mallicollo: but, on the other hand, their music is in greater perfection than any in the South Sea; and it cannot be disputed that a predilection for harmonious sounds implies great sensibility, and must prepare the way for civilization. Agreeably to their present situation, their government is in a very imperfect state. Every village or family appears to be independent, and only to join with the rest when their common interest is absolutely the same: for example, when their country is threatened by the invasion of strangers. The aged or the strong appear to have the greatest influence among the multitude, and a diversity of ranks seems to be unknown. The separate interest of many small societies must frequently clash, and of course involve them in feuds, which nourish, in some measure, the principles of distrust and revenge. This difficulty can only be remedied in process of time by the encrease of population, which will oblige them to unite and to establish a government on a more permanent basis. The manufacture of arms, upon which they now spend more time than on any other, will then employ their more numerous leisure hours, and the same elegance which is at present lavished on the arms at the Friendly Islands, may likewise at Tanna become the work of peace and mutual safety. How far their navigations to neighbouring islands may hasten that period is uncertain; but commerce is doubtless of infinite service to the encrease of civilization.

We know nothing of their religion, except the solemn song which we heard on the eastern point of the bay almost every morning, from whence we suspect that they have a place of worship in the woods thereabouts. Their solicitude to prevent our access to that part seems to strengthen this conjecture; but in their general behaviour we did not take notice of the least religious act, nor of any thing that could be construed into superstition. The only circumstance which has some appearance of owing its origin to a religious notion, is their taking up the presents which we gave them, in a leaf; but as this was not a general custom, and almost entirely neglected as soon as we became better acquainted, I cannot lay any stress upon it. Civilization enlarges and unravels the idea of a Deity, which is not unknown to the savage, though his more immediate wants prevent his giving attention to it. When the exigencies of nature are supplied with less trouble, and in a shorter time, the intellectual part expands and mounts to heaven to find some occupation. It cannot be expected that during the little stay which we made at Tanna, and in the confined situation to which the distrust of the natives reduced us at first, we should have been able to collect more certain and instructive observations, or an exact detail of the whole extent of knowledge among the natives. Many articles, and especially all the customs of domestic life, remain entirely unknown to us. All nations practise certain ceremonies on solemn occasions, such as marriages, births, or deaths; and however simple they may be at Tanna, they contribute to delineate the character of the people, of which our knowledge is but too imperfect. The visits which we made to them on the hill, gave us great room to believe them hospitable, and open to sentiments of universal benevolence, as soon as the apprehensions for their safety were pacified. We found them unjust to their women, but not so cruel and unnatural as the New Zeelanders; on the contrary, it is rather to be supposed that they made gradual advances towards that kind disposition which manifests itself in the good treatment of the sex at the Friendly and Society Islands. Upon other occasions we had reason to believe them brave and intrepid, and their conduct to us in the woods, after the fatal murder of their countryman, was certainly generous. Their conversation sometimes afforded us an opportunity of admiring their sagacity. Their behaviour to us at our first arrival, and the custom of going constantly armed, are evident marks of distrust; and the custom of eating human flesh, which their signs plainly indicated, is a proof that their passions are violent. The intercourse with Europeans might perhaps have proved a benefit to them, and laid the ground-work for a future progress in civilization, if their last rash action had not effaced those favourable impressions which the natives had already conceived of them. European goods were in no repute; but as we left a considerable number of nails and some hatchets among them, the durability of the metal will soon teach them to hold it in high esteem, and it is not improbable that the next ship which may happen to visit them, will find them fond of iron-ware, and eager to barter provisions for it.

Having once more put to sea, we ran to the eastward, in order to examine the island of Irronan. Our stay at Tanna had supplied us only with three or four meals of fresh fish, and a small quantity of yams, which we treasured up to serve upon emergencies. Some of our crew were at this time afflicted with fevers, and received small portions of those roots, as substitutes to the unwholesome biscuit and pickled beef.

[Sunday 21.]In the evening we came near the island of Irronan, which was found to lie about twelve leagues to the east of Tanna, and consisted of a high table-hill. We passed the night in tacking, and the next morning ascertained the situation of Anattom in 20° 3' south, and 170° 5' east. Its size was inferior to that of Tanna, though we kept at such a distance that we could not determine it with precision; but the height of its mountains was to all appearance nearly the same. Observing no other islands to the southward at present, we shaped our course along the south-west shore of Tanna, which we saw to great advantage on that side, all the hills sloping very gently from their summits and inland ridges. [Monday 22.]As the wind was very fresh and wholly in our favour, we were on the lee-side of Irromanga the next morning. Captain Cook was resolved to spend some time in examining the western coasts of all this group of islands, and particulary not to leave unexplored that to the north of Mallicollo, which had been seen by M. de Bougainville. This group being the westernmost hitherto known in the South Pacific Ocean, captain Cook named the New Hebrides [238] The Hebrides are the westermost islands of Great Britain. , having acquired the right of giving this new collective name by discovering ten large islands, besides a number of smaller ones, all which had never been seen before. The day was not yet spent when we had already passed the southern shores of Sandwich Island. Its aspect on that side was very beautiful, and its forests seemed more rich and copious than we had formerly observed them to the northward. Four small islands, of inconsiderable height but finely wooded with the most tufted trees, formed a harbour, which had the appearance of being very convenient and safe.

[Tuesday 23.]Running on all night with great speed, we came in sight of the Isles of Apee, Pa-oom, and Ambrrym the next morning, and stood along the south-west side of Mallicollo. The peak of Pa-oom seemed at this distance in one direction, to be entirely separate from the land before it, but it may nevertheless be connected with it by low land. Mallicollo surprised us again with the beauty and shagginess of its forests, from whence vast numbers of smokes ascended, sufficient to prove, that a great part of these forests was inhabited. A spacious bay soon opened to our view, with a fine beach; and the land about it, was to all appearance, extremely populous and fertile. Two small islands were situated in this bay, and we feasted our eyes on the richness of luxuriance of the prospect, where the brightest tints of verdure were profusely spread.

A great number of natives were observed on the shore, and two canoes put off about noon, paddling towards us, but soon giving over the chace, as we sailed on too fast for them. Beyond the point which included the bay to the north-west, the country lost something of its exuberant fertility, and was interspersed with barren spots, though we saw smokes and habitations on the highest ridges: and at night the mountains were illuminated in different places, by several lines of fires, some of which appeared to extend at least half a mile in length. We passed the north point of Mallicollo during night, and were a good way advanced in Bougainville's passage at day-break on the 24th. [Wednesd. 24.] Mallicollo lies nearly N. N. W. and S. S. E. and the north point is in 15° 50' S. and 167° 23' E. The land which forms the north side of the passage, appeared very extensive, high and mountainous, and a number of small islands lay along its southern coast, which were of a very moderate height, and covered with the finest forests. The continual fair weather which attended this part of our nagivation, made all these beautiful landscapes appear to the greatest advantage; and the pleasure of contemplating a great variety of rich sceneries, made us some amends for the wretchedness of our diet, which at present consisted of no other than the ship's provisions.

The land which we now saw to the northward, seems to be the same, which that great navigator, captain Quiros, called Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo, and which at that time, he supposed to make part of a continent. It is not improbable, that the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, where he anchored, is situated within the small islands, which lie before that great land. We really saw the appearance of a bay within them, but did not stop to examine it, only giving the small islands the name of Bartholemew Isles, from the day on which we saw them.

We were now entertained once more with the sight of the island of Lepers, and Aurora which remained at a great distance to the east of us. Our course continued to the north along the eastern shore of Tierra del Espiritu Santo, where we still discovered new islands, which were not seen by M. de Bougainville. These small islands, as well as the main land, had all a very fertile aspect, being covered with fine forests, from whence numerous smokes ascended, which were so many signs of a great population. Having passed the night, standing off and on, we came abreast of the northernmost islands the next morning, [Thursday 25.]and took notice that even the large land extended no further northward. Most of the small islands were very long, narrow, and bluff at one end, but formed a low flat point, running out to the northward. Their bluff part was commonly white like a chalk-cliff, and it was remarkable that we did not observe any coco-nut trees among their forests, which in some places consisted chiefly of club-wood. As we passed by their northern extremity, they formed a very beautiful prospect, gradually opening from each other, and clear of the main land. Steering to the westward, we passed a projecting point on Tierra del Espiritù Santo, and opened a most spacious bay of which the entrance could be no less than five leagues wide. The depth of the bay was proportioned to the width. The shores on each side seemed to run parallel for the space of seven leagues, at the end of which the bay terminates. A fine beach was seen all along the bottom of it, and the land from thence, for many leagues within the country, consisted of hills of a very moderate height, and extensive populous vallies, which had the appearance of fertility and plenty. We stood over to its western shore where we saw many natives, especially towards the evening; and likewise took notice of a canoe similar to those which we had observed at Mallicollo; it came off, but the people in it kept it at a distance from the ship, and would not come near, though we gave them ever so many invitations. The hill which formed the western shore was rather steep, but however well inhabited, and covered with woods. A low flat point ran out from it a mile or two into the bay, and formed a kind of cove where we wished to come to an anchor, as we were becalmed, and the night was coming on. We sounded several times, but found no bottom with one hundred and thirty, and one hundred and forty fathom, about a mile from the shore. It was soon perfectly dark, and as we only discerned the land by the lights which glimmered through the woods in different places, our situation was beginning to be alarming, and we thought of hoisting out our boats to tow us off, when a faint breeze assisted us to get into the middle of the bay. Here we [Friday 26.]waited for day-light, and then continued to stand in to the southward with light airs, which vanished towards noon. Two boats were sent after dinner to the beach which runs along the bottom of the bay, in order to reconnoitre whether there was any port, or a river, which we could not discern from on board, being still above a league and a half distant. In the mean while three canoes put off from the shore, with triangular sails, and approached the ship very fast. In each of them we observed four or five men, to whom we called, as soon as we thought them within hearing. They were naked, and of the same colour as the Mallicollese; but taller, and more stoutly formed; their hair seemed to be woolly, and their beards frizzled. Some of them had a bunch of feathers on the top of the head, and others wore a white shell tied on the fore-head. On their arms they had bracelets of shell-work, exactly resembling those which we had observed at Mallicollo, and round their middle they wore a narrow belt, from whence a long slip of matted-work, five inches broad, descended to the knees before and behind. One of them had a sago-leaf rolled round his head, forming a kind of airy cap. Their canoes were of indifferent workmanship like those of Mallicollo, and had out-riggers. We saw some spears in them, which had two or three prongs, and were doubtless intended as fish-gigs; but, besides these, the people had no arms whatsoever. They came so near as to accept a present of medals, nails, Taheitee cloth, and red baize; and we could observe them seizing upon the nails with peculiar eagerness, which seems to indicate that they were not wholly unacquainted with them: Quiros perhaps might leave some iron-ware on this island, which has thus acquired a high value among the natives. They fastened a branch of the pepper-plant to the same rope by which we had lowered down the nails to them; but it appeared, that besides this emblem of friendship, they had nothing else to give. We spoke a good deal to them, and they answered from time to time, but neither party understood the other. However, I thought of repeating the numerals in the dialect of the Friendly Islands, and had scarcely begun to count, when they immediately interrupted me, and counted very exactly till ten. We now pointed to the shore, and enquired for the name of the island. They repeated the word Fannoòa, which in the dialect just mentioned signifies land; and called the level district, at the bottom of the bay, Tallaònee, at the same time giving several names for different parts of the country on the sides; but we could not obtain a general name of the island, which we therefore distinguished by that of Tierra del Espiritù Santo, as Quiros had done before. The languages of Mallicollo and Tanna, of which we repeated some words to these people, were either unknown to them, or we pronounced them too improperly to be understood. When they saw our boats coming back from the shore, they left us, it being then near sunset. Lieutenant Pickersgill, who had the command of our boats, reported that he found no soundings before he came within two or three cable's lengths of the shore, but that the bottom was good at this distance. He had found a fine river, which was deep enough for his boat at the entrance, and had landed on one of the banks, whilst a great number of natives appeared in the bushes on the opposite side. He made many signs of friendship, and called and beckoned to them to come over the water; but none of them venturing to accept the invitation, he re-embarked, and returned to the ship. The boats were hoisted in, and a breeze springing up, assisted us to go gradually out of the bay. Captain Cook gave this bay the name of St. Philip and St. Iago; but it is still somewhat doubtful, whether it is the same which Quiros has distinguished by that name; at least the port of Vera Cruz, which according to that Spanish navigator, has room for a thousand ships, is not to be found in it [239] See Mr. Dalrymple's useful and judicious Collection of Voyages, vol. I. p. 132, 142, and 169. . The eastern point of the entrance was named cape Quiros, and lies in 14° 55' S. and 167° 14' E. The western point extends somewhat more to the northward, being in 14° 38' S. and 166° 52' E. and was named cape Cumberland. We were off this point early the next morning, and advanced slowly out of the bay, along the northern coast of the island, being much detained by calms and light airs. Quiros had great reason to extol the beauty and fertility of this country; it is indeed to appearance, one of the finest in the world. Its riches in vegetable productions would doubtless have afforded the botanist an ample harvest of new plants, as next to New Zeeland it was the largest land we had hitherto seen, and had the advantage of having never been examined by other naturalists. But the study of nature was only made the secondary object in this voyage, which, contrary to its original intent, was so contrived in the execution, as to produce little more than a new track on the chart of the southern hemisphere. We were therefore obliged to look upon those moments, as peculiarly fortunate, when the urgent wants of the crew, and the interest of the sciences, happened to coincide.

A shark was caught in the afternoon, and afforded us a fresh meal. We found a small insect, of the monoculus tribe, upon its back, which much resembled the species in the gills of salmons. A scorpion was likewise dislodged from a shelf, by the accidental removal of a book; some of these creatures having been brought on board at the Society or Friendly Islands with clusters of bananas, on which they sometimes sit. Towards night we made another acquisition; it was a booby, of the sort which Linnӕus calls pelecanus fiber, which had roosted on the main-yard.

The day following a light air likewise retarded our progress, so that we slowly examined the western coast of Tierra del Espiritù Santo. A variety of fish were observed swimming along side; two albecores were caught, and a single dolphin was struck with the harpoon, after many unsuccessful attempts. The land on this side was high, and the mountains very steep. Many fires were observed at night, probably in order to clear the ground for plantations. Quiros having likewise seen fires on this island, conjectured as we had done at first, that they were feux de joye, and illuminations, on account of the arrival of ships. A southerly breeze springing up, obliged us to tack off and on, during the 30th and 31st, when we reached the S. W. point of the island, which we named Cape Lisburne, and which is situated in 15° 35' S. and 167° E. We stood once more into the passage between Tierra del Espiritù Santo and Mallicollo, in order to complete the circuit of the former. Here we saw the bay which M. de Bougainville has expressed in his map, sheltered by some of the Bartholomew Islands: it did not however appear to be of such great extent as it is there represented. About six in the evening we put about, and stood to the S. S. W. from the New Hebrides, with a S. E. trade-wind. This group of islands, which we had now cursorily examined in the space of forty-six days, seems to be well worth the attention of future navigators, especially if they should ever be sent out upon the liberal plan of making discoveries in all the various branches of science. I will not pretend to say that they would find great riches of silver and pearls, which Quiros was forced to speak of, in order to engage an interested, avaricious court, to support his great and spirited undertakings. These incitements are not necessary now a-days, when several monarchs in Europe have convinced the world that they can institute voyages of discovery, with no other view than the increase of human knowledge, and the improvement of mankind. The sums which some of their predecessors have lavished on parasites, have been found sufficient to make an immense progress, nay, to produce a new and important revolution in the state of the sciences, which have ever required a trifling expence to triumph over the numberless obstacles that ignorance, envy, or superstitution opposed against them. The natural productions of the New Hebrides, exclusive of all kinds of artificial riches, are therefore in my opinion considerable enough to engage the attention of future voyagers. Their volcanoes, their vegetables, and their inhabitants, would provide sufficient employment for a Ferber [240] Mr. Ferber is the first and only man of science who has given us a truly scientifical and mineralogical account of Vesuvius, which is worthy the attention of naturalists. See his Letters to baron Born, London, 1776. , a Solander, and many of the historians of mankind.

[1774. September.][Thursday 1.]We proceeded at present to the southward, and prepared to cross the South Sea in its greatest breadth towards the extremity of America; and though our crew were much weakened by living entirely upon salt meat in a hot climate, yet it was intended not to touch at any place by the way; a project, which if it had been put in execution, would doubtless have proved fatal to some of them, whose bad constitution would not prompt them to support such an abstinence. Fortunately, after standing on the same course for three days, we fell in with a large land, which had never been visited by any European navigator before, and which entirely altered the plan of our proceedings for the remaining part of our stay in the South Seas.

CHAP. III.

Discovery of New Caledonia.-Account of our stay there.-Range along the coast to our departure.-Discovery of Norfolk Island.-Return to New Zeeland.

[1774. September.][Sunday 4.]ON the 4th of September, about seven in the morning, a midshipman at the mast-head discovered land to the south, extending a great way to the westward, and likewise to the south-eastward. It appeared to be very high, and its distance from us was about eight leagues, being seen through a haze, which made it appear farther off than it really was. We had at this time little wind, though fair weather, and therefore advanced slowly towards this new and unexpected coast. M. de Bougainville takes notice of meeting with a part of the sea which was entirely smooth [241] See his Voyage, Eng. edition, p. 303. , and where several pieces of wood and fruits floated past his ship. This was nearly to the N. W. of the land which we now discovered, and which, as an able and intelligent navigator, he had conjectured to lie in that direction.

A calm, which happened after noon, entirely stopped our progress towards the land, to which we were now near enough to discern several smokes, sufficient to prove that it was inhabited. An officer at the mast-head likewise entertained us with the hope of seeing another volcano, of which he said he had seen the smoke bursting out. He must, however, have been deceived by appearances, as we never afterwards saw any volcanic production upon this island. The point which had first been seen, was named after the midshipman, Cape Colnett , and is situated in 20° 30' south, and 165° 2' east. The whole land, appearing to be very extensive, was honoured with the appellation of Nova Caledonia . We could not wait the moment which should make us acquainted with the inhabitants of this land, but formed several conjectures relative to them. As we had found the inhabitants of the New Hebrides not only entirely distinct from the New Zeelanders, but also different amongst themselves, this new country offered itself to our eyes very opportunely in order to account for the population of New Zeeland; but the sequel convinced us that our ideas were very premature on this subject, and that the history of the human species in the South Seas cannot yet be unravelled with any degree of precision.

Before it was dark, three sailing canoes were seen coming off from the shore. Perhaps the natives had taken our ship to be a canoe, and upon this supposition had mistaken the distance, for soon after they put about and returned. The land to the westward seemed to be divided into several islands, and a-head of the ship we observed some breakers, which gave us reason to conclude that a reef of coral surrounded the land at a considerable distance from it.

[Monday 5.]Early the next morning, having a fine breeze, we stood towards the shore, and soon discovered the reef, which ran parallel to the coast, at the distance of three leagues. Within it we saw several canoes, each provided with two large sails, one behind the other, and some natives on board of them employed in fishing. A few other canoes put off from the shore some time after, and, passing the reef, came towards the ship. We called to them as soon as we could be heard, but they only looked at us, and soon returned the way they came, making however no unfriendly gestures. Having observed an entrance into the reef we hoisted two boats out, which we sent to sound. In a little time they made the signal of having found a convenient and safe passage into the smooth water within the reef, and we could observe them conversing upon very amicable terms with a canoe full of the natives. Our ship stood into this smooth bason through a gap in the reef, which was about a mile in breadth. The natives laid some of their canoes on both sides of the passage, in a place where it was narrow, and beckoned to us to keep in the middle between, which gave us a very high opinion of their friendly and open disposition. Our boats still continued to proceed a-head of us, sounding from time to time, and making signals of the depth of water. The face of the country looked rather barren as we approached, and was covered with a dry whitish grass. Trees were very sparingly scattered on the mountains, and seemed all to have white stems, and to resemble willows; nor was any kind of shrubberies or underwood to be seen. Coming nearer, we discovered a small border of flat land at the foot of the hills, covered with green and tufted trees and bushes, amongst which we saw now and then a coco-nut palm and a banana-tree. Some houses likewise appeared, which had the shape of conical or round bee-hives, with a hole for the entrance, and exactly resembled the houses which are represented in Le Maire's and Schouten's voyage, and which they saw on Cocos and Hoorne Island [242] See the plates in Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol. II. .

Lieutenant Pickersgill, who had been out in the boat, now returned on board, and told us that the people in the canoes had been extremely friendly towards him, and shewed him one of their number whom they named Teà-booma , and stiled their arèekee , or king. He gave him some medals and other trifles, and likewise presented the other people in the canoe with the same; but they all delivered what they received immediately into the hands of Teà-booma. Mr. Pickersgill brought on board four or five fish, of which these good people had made him a present; but unfortunately they were already putrid and unfit to be eaten.

We saw a small islet in the harbour, surrounded by reefs and shoals, near which we let go our anchor in a good bottom. This was no sooner done than we were surrounded by about twenty canoes, each of which was provided with sails, and consisted of two hulls, connected by a platform of boards, on which lay a heap of soil and ashes, where the natives kept a constant fire. Many of these people immediately came on board, placing perfect confidence in us, and one of them exchanged a yam for a small bit of red cloth. We sat down to dinner, and a number of the natives were our spectators. They ate very heartily of the yams which we had obtained at Tanna, but refused to touch our salt pork, or to drink a drop of wine. Unfortunately, yams were such a rarity upon our table, that we could not conveniently part with them. They admired every thing that had a red colour, particularly red cloth or baize, but did not choose to give us any thing in exchange. Their language, if we except the word areekee and one or two more, had no affinity with any one of the various languages which we had heard in the South Sea before. This was the more surprising to us, as we had found one language, or at least dialects of it, in all the easterly islands of the South Sea, as well as at New Zeeland. The people were likewise different from any we had seen. They were very stout, tall, and in general well proportioned; their features mild, their beards and hair black and strongly frizzled, so as to be almost woolly in some individuals, and their general colour swarthy or a dark chestnut brown, nearly the same with that of the people of Tanna.

After dinner we proceeded to a flat point on the shore, where we saw a great croud of the natives assembled. Two boats filled with people went on this expedition, and among them were twelve marines, well armed. We landed without the least opposition among the natives, some of whom were armed, but others entirely defenceless. Our marines drew up in a line, whilst we went up and down before them, and desired the natives to give us some room, to which they readily consented. A handsome young man, who, according to Mr. Pickersgill, was the chief Teà-booma, held a speech almost as soon as we had stepped ashore. Previous to this, another of the natives pronounced some words very loud, upon which a general silence immediately ensued. The speech was very moderate, though serious, and from time to time delivered in a loud tone. Sometimes the orator seemed to propose several questions, which were always answered by some old men in the croud, and the whole lasted two or three minutes. A little while after another chief arrived, who likewise held a speech of the same nature to us; after which we mixed freely in the croud, and had an opportunity of examining their arms and ornaments. Our principal enquiry, which we expressed by signs, was whether they had any fresh water, upon which some pointed to the west, but the greatest number to the eastward. Their persons were tall and wholly of that character which I observed in those who came on board at first. Many of them, however, had prodigious thick legs and arms, which seemed to be affected by a kind of leprosy. They all went naked, only tying a string round the middle, and another round the neck. A little piece of brown cloth, made of the bark of a fig-tree, which is sometimes tucked up to the belt, and sometimes pendulous, scarcely deserves the name of a covering; it seems indeed not to be intended for a veil, any more than the contrivance of the Mallicollese, and in the eyes of Europeans would rather be reckoned obscene than decent. Every inhabitant of this island, therefore, like the natives of Tanna and Mallicollo, was an ambulant figure of the Roman Garden-God. The ideas of modesty are different in every country, and change in different periods of time. Where all men go naked, for instance on New Holland [243] The natives of New Holland, of both sexes, go entirely naked, and have not the least covering from motives of shame. See Hawkesworth, vol. III. , custom familiarizes them to each other's eyes, as much as if they went wholly muffled up in garments. The fashionable dresses and suits of armour which were worn in the fifteenth and sixteenth century at every European court, would at present be looked upon as the most indecent that can possibly be contrived; and yet who will dare to assert this, or defame the virtuous characters of the invincible knights of that time, so famous for chastity, honour, and gallantry,-because they wore breeches made after the fashions of the times [244] In the arsenals at the Tower of London may be seen many complete suits of armour, which will better explain my meaning. ?

The same piece of cloth, which the natives of New Caledonia have made so conspicuous, is sometimes of such a length, that the extremity is fastened to the string round the neck. To this string they also hang small round beads, of a pale green nephritic stone, which is of the same species with that of Tanna, and nearly related to that of New Zeeland. On their heads many among them wear black cylindrical caps, made of a very coarse matted work, and entirely open at both ends, being only a kind of stiff cloth, formed by a longitudinal seam into a cylinder, which has some resemblance to the cap of an hussar. The chiefs had ornamented theirs with many small red plumes, and at the top with long black cock's feathers. In their ears, of which the extremity is stretched to a great length, and the whole cartilage cut out, as at Easter Island, they hang great numbers of tortoise-shell rings, as is customary at Tanna, and sometimes place a scroll, made of a sugar-cane leaf, in the hole. Their arms were clubs, spears and slings. The former were of different shapes and woods, but in general rather short, seldom exceeding three feet in length, and resembling that sort of the clubs of Tanna, which is made of the casuarina. Their ends are cut out in stars and various knobs, and some are formed almost like a scythe or pick-axe, with a very short handle. Their spears are fifteen or twenty feet long, and black, or blackened over; and the best of them, somewhat before the middle, have a prominence, which is carved so as to bear a rude resemblance to a human face. They throw them by the assistance of such short cords, knobbed at one end and looped at the other, as are usual at Tanna, and which seamen call beckets. Those of New Caledonia were of superior workmanship, and contained a quantity of red wool, which we should have taken for the covering of a new sort of animal, if we had not formerly seen the vampyre, or great Indian bat, from whence it was taken. Their last weapons were slings, for bows and arrows were wholly unknown to them. These slings consisted of a slender round cord, no thicker than a packthread, which had a tassel at one end, and a loop at the other end and in the middle. The stones which they used were oblong, and pointed at each end, being made of a soft and unctuous soap-rock ( smectites), which could easily be rubbed into that shape. These exactly fitted the loop in the middle of the sling, and were kept in a wallet or pocket of coarse cloth, strongly woven, of a kind of grass, which was tied on about the middle. Their shape gives them a striking resemblance to the glandes plumbeœ of the Romans [245] See Count Caylus's Antiquit. III. 327. Tab. XCII. fig. 3. .

Captain Cook being desirous to find a watering-place, soon returned to the boats, and proceeded along shore to the eastward, where he saw the whole coast lined with mangroves, growing in shallow water, and in swampy or marshy ground. The natives on the beach, seeing us put off, dispersed immediately, and went to their several homes. Two of them were seen walking with great difficulty along the mangroves; for which reason we rowed towards them, and took them into the boat. After we had proceeded near two miles, these two men pointed out an entrance between the mangroves, which looked like a river. As it was deep enough for our boats, we went in, and soon perceived, that, after several turns and windings, it led to a few habitations. In our way we saw some of the natives standing on the shore, and a flock of wild ducks passing over our heads at the same time. I killed one of them, which one of our friends in the boat was so desirous of possessing, that we readily made him a present of it. He, as well as those on shore, expressed some admiration on observing the effect of our fire-arms, but did not betray the smallest symptom of fear. Before we reached their houses, we repeated the experiment, much to their satisfaction, and were very well pleased to give them an idea of our power, by such innocent means.10 At last, the river being not above twelve yards11 wide, we landed on its banks, which were raised about two feet above the water, it being near the flood tide. Here we found a few small families, with their wives and children, who all came familiarly about us, without the least marks of distrust or ill-will. The women were in general of a dark chesnut, or sometimes mahogany brown colour; their stature was middle-sized, some being rather tall, and their whole form very stout, and somewhat clumsy. Their dress was the most disfiguring that can be imagined, and gave them a thick squat shape. It was a short petticoat or fringe, consisting of filaments or little cords about eight inches long, which were fastened to a very long string, which they had tied several times round the waist. The filaments or little ropes therefore lay above each other in several layers, forming a kind of thick thatch all round the body, which did not cover above a third part of the thigh. These filaments were sometimes dyed black; but frequently those on the outside only were of that colour, whilst the rest had a dirty straw-colour. They wore shells, ear-rings, and bits of nephritic stones, like the men; and some had three black lines longitudinally from the under-lip to the chin, which had been punctured by the same methods practised at the Friendly and Society Islands. Their features were coarse, but expressed great good-nature. The forehead in general was high, the nose broad and flat at the root, and the eyes rather small. Their cheek-bones were very prominent, and the cheeks commonly plump. Their hair was frizzled, and often cut short, as among the natives of the Society and Friendly Islands. The huts, which stood about ten yards from the banks of the river, on a little rising, were of a conical shape, about ten feet high, but not pointed at the top. Their innermost skeleton consisted of several poles placed nearly upright, and connected together by twisted sticks like hurdles. Over these we found a covering of matts from top to bottom, and upon that a thick and well-contrived thatch of straw. What little light there is in these houses, comes in through the entrance, which is a hole about four feet high; so that the inhabitants must stoop to go in or out. We found them full of smoke, and saw a heap of ashes in the entrance; and concluded that they were obliged to light fires, in order to drive away the mosquitoes, which must infest the swamps in the neighbourhood; though this day being rather cool, we saw but few. The huts were surrounded by a small number of coco-palms, destitute of fruit, some sugar-canes, bananas, and eddoes, which the natives had supplied with water by several little trenches. Some of the eddoes were actually set under water, in the same manner as is customary throughout the South Sea Islands.12 The whole plantation, however, had a very scanty appearance, and seemed to be insufficient to afford nourishment to the inhabitants throughout the year. We entirely missed that variety of fruits, which we had hitherto met with in the tropical islands, and naturally recollected the poverty of the inhabitants of Easter Island, above whom it appeared, that the people before us enjoyed but few advantages. A native named Heebai, seemed to be the principal man among the few families which were here assembled; we made him some presents, and walked about on the banks of the river towards the mangroves, meeting with a new plant by the way. Towards the hills, of which the first risings were at the distance of about two miles, the country looked extremely dreary; here and there indeed, we saw a few trees, and small cultivated spots, but they appeared to be lost on the great extent of barren and unprofitable country, which resembled our moors more than anything else.13 Upon a large heap of embers and ashes before the huts, lay a round earthen pot, which could hold four or five gallons. It was very clumsily shaped, had a large belly, and consisted of a reddish substance, which was totally covered with soot both without and within. After a short stay with the good people of this spot, whose provisions were doubtless so scanty, that they could not spare any for us, we reimbarked in our boats. The natives came along side early the next morning in their canoes. They had fires upon every canoe, having laid some stones and ashes on the platform, to prevent any accident. There were some women in the boats, who did not come into the ship, but many of the men came in without invitation, and began to sell their arms for pieces of Taheitee cloth.

The boats were sent ashore again in search of a nearer watering-place. We landed at the same point, where we had made our first landing the day before. Here we met with a few inhabitants, who on our making enquiry for fresh-water, pointed to the westward where we had not yet been. We walked along the beach, which was here sandy, and bounded by a fine wild shrubbery: we soon came to a hut, from whence a number of plantations extended to the back of the beach and wild wood. We rambled into the country, and came to a canal that watered this plantation, but of which the water was very brackish. From hence however, we ran immediately to an eminence near us, where the nature of the country appeared evidently changed. The plain was covered with a thin stratum of vegetable soil, which being very poor was manured in the plantations with broken shells and corals. The eminence on the contrary was a rocky ground, consisting of large pieces of quartz and glimmer ( mica [246] This kind of rock is called gestell-stein by the German mineralogists. See Mr. Ferber's Letters to Baron Born, English edition, 8vo. 1776, p. 327. This name is particularly applied to that kind of rock, where the mica or glimmer lies in frequent and horizontal strata. ). Here grew a quantity of dry grasses, about two or three feet high, very thin in most places; and at the distance of fifteen or twenty yards asunder, we saw large trees black at the root, but with a bark perfectly white and loose, and having narrow long leaves like our willows. They were of the sort which Linné calls melaleuca leucadendra, and Rumphius arbor alba, who says that the natives of the Moluccas make the oil of cayputi,14 from the leaves, which are indeed extremely fragrant and aromatic [247] Herb. amboin. vol. II. T. 16, 17. p. 72. . Not the least shrub was to be seen on this eminence, and the trees did not intercept the distant prospect. We discerned from hence a line of tufted trees and shrubberies, which extended from the sea-side towards the mountains, and immediately concluded that they stood on the banks of a rivulet. We walked past a few other plantations, and soon found the rivulet we sought, which about two hundred yards from the sea, was unmixed with salt-water, so that we could fill our casks without much trouble. Here we saw the chief Teabooma, and gave him several medals and other trifles, for which he made us a present of a sling, and some clubs. The banks of the river were lined with mangroves, beyond which a few other sorts of plants and trees occupied a space of fifteen or twenty feet, which had a layer of vegetable mould, charged with nutritive moisture, and covered with a green bed of grasses, where the eye gladly reposed itself after viewing a parched prospect. The border of shrubberies and wild trees which lined the sea shore, was the most advantageous to us as naturalists; here we met with some unknown plants, and saw a great variety of birds of different classes, which were for the greatest part entirely new. But the character of the inhabitants, and their friendly, inoffensive behaviour towards us, gave us greater pleasure than all the rest. We found their numbers very inconsiderable, and their habitations very thinly scattered.15 They commonly had built two or three houses near each other, under a group of very lofty fig-trees, of which the branches were so closely entwined, that the sky was scarcely visible through the foliage, and the huts were involved in a perpetual cool shade. They had another advantage besides, from this pleasant situation; for numbers of birds continually twittered in the tufted tops of the tree, and hid themselves from the scorching beams of the sun. The wild note of some species of creepers was very agreeable, and conveyed a sensible pleasure to every one who delighted in this kind of artless harmony. The inhabitants themselves were commonly seated at the foot of these trees, which had this remarkable quality, that they shot long roots from the upper part of the stem, perfectly round, as if they had been made by a turner, into the ground, ten, fifteen, and twenty feet from the tree, and formed a most exact strait line, being extremely elastic, and as tense as a bow-string prepared for action. The bark of these trees seems to be the substance of which they make those little bits of cloth, so remarkable in their dress. They communicated a number of words of their language to us, which had no affinity with those we had learnt before in other islands; a circumstance sufficient to discourage the greatest and most indefatigable genealogist. Their temper seemed to be as indolent, as it was good-natured and harmless. It was very rare indeed, that any one of them chose to follow us on our rambles; if we passed by their huts, and talked to them, they answered us, but if we went on without addressing them, they took no farther notice of us. The women were rather more curious, and sometimes strayed in the bushes to observe us, but would not venture to come near, except in the presence of the men.

We shot a number of birds, without giving the least offence by this amusement to any of the natives; on the contrary, when we came near their houses, the young men readily pointed them out to us. It appeared that they had very little occupation at this time of the year, having now prepared the ground, and planted roots and bananas, of which they expected a new crop the ensuing summer. Perhaps from the same reason, they were at present more unable than at any other time, to part with their provisions to us, though their insuspicious, open disposition, gave us the greatest room to believe that they were not strangers to the principles of hospitality, which render all the natives of the South Sea so amiable in the eyes of their visitors.

We walked about till noon, when the boats returned on board with a load of water, having only left a small party with the casks; a precaution, which the honesty of the natives perhaps did not render necessary. Mr. Wales, our astronomer, had in the meanwhile fixed some instruments on the little sandy islet, in order to observe an eclipse of the sun, which happened this day. The captain joined him there, and from this, as well as subsequent observations, they deduced the situation of this little island to be in 20° 15' S. and 164° 40' E.16

In the evening we went on shore with captain Cook to the watering-place. The cayputi-trees ( melaleuca), of which we found several in flower, had a loose bark, which in many places burst off from the wood, and concealed within it beetles, ants, spiders, lizards, and scorpions. We thought we observed quails among the tall dry grasses this day, but could not be certain; we walked about till sunset, on the hillocks nearest to our watering-place, where we saw but very few natives, who sold some of their arms to us. We endeavoured to represent to them that we stood in need of provisions, but they lent a deaf ear to every hint of that kind, since it was plain they had barely enough for their own subsistence. The soil of New Caledonia is indeed very unfit for agriculture, and poorly rewards the labours which the natives bestow upon it.

Early in the morning, before any natives come on board, we sent a boat to the offing with the body of one of our seamen, who had acted as butcher on board the ship, but died the day before, of a hurt which he had received on the 5th of September by a fall. He was a laborious man, indefatigable in his employment, though he seemed to be near sixty years old. This was the third man whom we lost on this voyage, one having been drowned, and another dying of a dropsy.

We set out with the captain, the master, two midshipmen, and three sailors, after breakfast, and ascended the hills from whence the rivulet sprung, at which we watered. We found a convenient path all the way, though the mountain was very steep in some place. The rock was every where of the same nature; it was always a mixture of a kind of glimmer and quartz, more or less tinged with an ochreous or reddish colour, which owed its origin to particles of iron. We found the cayputi trees all the way up; but as we came higher, we met with various sorts of shrubs, though thinly scattered, which offered new species of flowers to our eyes. The higher we came, the more the trees dwindled into shrubs, except in a few deep glens, where we observed some small rills gushing down, which fertilized the ground so much, that a variety of plants shot up in them with luxuriance. We had not ascended an hour, when we met a body of near two hundred men of the natives descending, most of them well armed, who seemed to have come on purpose to see the strangers. The greater part turned back with us, seeing us advance towards the summit of the hill. Being near the summit, we stopped to look at some stakes placed here and there in the ground, with dry branches of trees and dry grasses laid across them. The natives told us they buried their dead on this hill, and that the stakes indicated the places where every one was interred.17 In the meanwhile, captain Cook, with the master, had reached the summit of the hill, from whence he beheld the sea on the south side, at no greater distance from the mountains than that to the north. A plain appeared on that side watered by various rivulets, and some plantations could be discerned; but upon the whole, no material difference was observed between the two sides of the ridge. The natives seeing us very dry, and tired by the immense heat of the day, brought us some sugar-canes, though I cannot conceive where they found them so soon, as we could not see, or indeed suppose, any growing in the neighbourhood. The tops of the hills were almost entirely barren, but still consisted of the same kind of stone, which seemed to indicate, that New Caledonia contains some valuable minerals.18 Their height, from the time which the ascent took up, and all other circumstances considered, appears not to be very considerable, and must be inferior to the height of the Table-mountain at the Cape of Good Hope, which, according to abbè la Caille [248] See his Voyage, p. 237. , is said to be 3350 Rhinland feet high. We descended by a different path, which was more steep and rugged than the first, but likewise brought us down on the plain in a much shorter time. We found a number of plantations on that part of the plain where we came down, which was a considerable way to the westward of our watering-place. A few habitations of the natives were situated in the midst of these cultivated spots, without being sheltered against the sun. Their inhabitants came out, and offered us some cups full of fresh water, which the heat rendered very acceptable. This friendly action is fully sufficient to prove that the people have a kind and hospitable disposition, which nothing but their indigence, and their ungrateful soil, prevented them from manifesting in a more striking manner. In our polished regions we sometimes see real generosity shine through the cracks of a ruinous cottage, while it faintly glimmers in sumptuous palaces.

Having rejoined our watering party, we returned on board, where we found a number of natives, who visited every part of the ship, and disposed of their clubs, spears, and ornaments. One among them was prodigiously tall, and seemed at least six feet five inches high, and the black cylindrical cap which he wore, made him appear at least eight inches higher. Many of these caps were ornamented with the feathers of the Ceylonese owl, which is also to be met with here and in the woods of Tanna; and it was almost a general custom to tie the sling round them, letting the tassel hang down on the shoulder. Fern leaves were likewise no uncommon ornament about these caps, which the natives sold us for Taheitee cloth, though they set a great value upon them. The number of ear-rings, which many of them wore, was remarkable; we observed one who had no less than eighteen, made of tortoise-shell, an inch in diameter, and a quarter of an inch in breadth. They brought a musical instrument, a kind of whistle, for sale this day. It was a little polished piece of brown wood, about two inches long, shaped like a bell, though apparently solid, with a rope fixed at the small end. Two holes were made in it near the base, and another near the insertion of the rope, all which had some communication with each other, and by blowing in the uppermost, a shrill sound, like whistling, was formed at the other. Besides this, we never observed any instrument among them which had the least relation to music. They had now begun to take our large spike-nails; but seeing some round iron bolts in the ship, to which some of the cordage is fastened (commonly called belaying-pins), they constantly shewed a great desire of possessing them. They did not attempt to take the least trifle by stealth, behaving with the strictest honesty and propriety on board. Many came swimming from the shore, which was better than a mile off, holding their piece of brown cloth out of the water with one hand, whilst with the other they moved forwards, and brought with them a spear, or a club, though not of the sort which is made of casuarina wood, that being too heavy to be conveyed in such a manner.

We embarked in a boat after dinner, and landed near two miles to the west of our watering-place, on a point which formed the bay where our ship lay at anchor. Here captain Cook took some bearings, whilst we pursued our researches. Immediately on the beach we found a large irregular mass of rock, not less than a cube of ten feet, which consisted of a close-grained horn-stone, speckled full of garnets, somewhat bigger than pins heads. This discovery confirmed what we had before conjectured, viz. that there was some probability of meeting with rich and useful minerals upon this island, which, as far as we saw, distinguished itself from all those we had hitherto examined in the South Seas, in being entirely destitute of volcanic productions.19 From this rock we struck into the woods which lined the shore, and which happened to be very thick in this part to a short distance on all sides. Here we found a few young bread-fruit-trees, not yet sufficiently grown to bear fruit; but they seemed to have come up without culture, and were perhaps indigenous wild trees of the country. We likewise met with a new species of passion-flower, which was chiefly extraordinary on this account, that all its species formerly known to the learned world were confined to America. I separated from my company during this search, and came into a hollow sandy way, which was hung with bindweeds and sweet-scented shrubs on both sides, and seemed to have been the bed of a torrent or rivulet. It brought me to a group of two or three huts, surrounded by coco-nut trees. Before one of them I observed a man seated with a little girl of eight or ten years old on his lap, and examining her head. He was somewhat surprised at sight of me, but presently recovering his tranquillity, proceeded in his occupation. He had a piece of fine transparent quartz in his hand, which having a very sharp edge, he made use of instead of scissars to cut the girl's hair. I made her a present of some black beads, and also gave him a few, with which he seemed much pleased. I now went on to the other huts, and found two placed so near together, as to inclose an area of about ten feet square, which was partly shut in with a fence. Here I found three women, one middle-aged, and the others somewhat younger, who made a fire under one of those large earthen pots which I have already mentioned. As soon as they saw me, they made signs that I should leave them; however, being desirous to see their method of cooking, I came in, and saw that they had stuffed the pot full of dry grasses and green leaves, in which they had wrapped up a few small yams. These roots are therefore in a manner baked in this pot, or undergo the same operation which the natives of Taheitee perform by burying them under a heap of earth, among heated stones. It was with difficulty they would give me time to intrude so far; they repeated their signs that I should go away, and pointing to the huts, moved their fingers several times under their throat; which I interpreted, that if they were observed to be thus alone with a stranger, they would be choaked or killed.20 I left them after they had made this gesture, and peeped into the huts, which I found quite empty. Returning into the wood, I met Dr. Sparrman; and we went to the women again, in order to look at their work once more, and to be convinced whether I had properly interpreted their signs, or whether they had only some particular objection to my appearance. We found them in the same place, and walking up to them, immediately made them a present of some beads, which they accepted with great expressions of joy; but at the same time they repeated the gestures which they had made when I came alone, and looked at us as if they would add entreaties to the signs, with which we immediately complied, and returned. We met the rest of our company some time after, and being athirst, asked the man who cut his daughter's hair for a little water. He shewed us a tree, on which he had hung about a dozen coco-nut shells, filled with fresh water, that element being to all appearance rather scarce in the country. We emptied some of these cups, and made him a present of a bit of Taheitee cloth, with which he seemed to be well pleased. From hence we proceeded to the watering-place, some by land, and some in the boat. We shot some curious birds by the way, with which the country abounds; and among the rest a species of crow, which is common in Europe. At the watering-place we found a considerable number of natives, some of whom, for a little rag of Taheitee cloth, carried our people into and out of their boats about forty yards, the water being too shallow for boats at that distance from the shore. Here we also saw some women, who, far from expressing any dread of the jealousy of their men, came among the croud, and sometimes amused themselves in encouraging the proposals of our seamen. They commonly beckoned them to come into the bushes, but as soon as the sailors followed, they gave them the slip, and ran with such agility, that they could not be overtaken. Thus they took pleasure in disappointing their new adorers, and laughed very heartily as often as they had put their little arts in practice. There was not a single instance, during our stay upon the island, of their ever having condescended to permit any indecent familiarity from an European; an innocent recreation, which shewed them good humoured, and not destitute of ingenuity, was what they strictly adhered to.

The captain's clerk purchased a fish on shore, for a piece of Taheitee cloth, from one of the natives, who had killed it with a spear. As soon as he came on board, he sent it to the captain; and as I found it to be a new species, I made a drawing and description of it. It was of the genus, by Linnӕus named tetraodon, of which several species are reckoned poisonous.21 We hinted this circumstance to captain Cook, especially as the ugly shape, and large head of the fish, were greatly in its disfavour; but he told us he had eaten this identical sort of fish on the coast of New Holland, during his former voyage, without the least bad consequences. It was accordingly preserved for the next day, and we sat down very chearful, in expectation of a fresh meal. At supper the liver of this fish was served up, which was very large and oily. For this reason the captain, my father, and myself eat only a morsel or two of it, and thought it had no other bad taste, than what arose from the oil. Our messmate, Dr. Sparrman, fortunately did not touch it. We went to bed upon this somewhat early, intending to revisit the shore at day-break; but at three o'clock in the morning, my father awaking, found himself extremely giddy, and his hands and feet entirely, as it were, benumbed. He got up, and was scarcely able to stand. He came into the steerage, where Dr. Sparrman slept, and acquainted him with his illness. Captain Cook's apartment was only separated by a thin partition: he was awake, and feeling the same symptoms of which he heard my father complain, got out of bed, and found himself unable to walk without holding onto something. I was in the same situation, upon being awakened by my father, and crawled into the cabin, where the surgeon, Mr. Patton, immediately appeared, to assist us. Our disorder had indeed a most serious aspect; the blood had left our cheeks, all our limbs were benumbed, and without sensation, and a great degree of languor and oppression had taken place. Emetics were administered, which gave my father and myself some relief, but had not much effect upon captain Cook. We took a sudorific after this, and went to bed again.

In the morning, about eight, we got up, very giddy and heavy; however I found myself well enough to pass the whole morning in sketching the outlines of six or eight plants, and some birds, which we had collected on our former excursions. Dr. Sparrman, in the mean while, went on shore to collect farther supplies. Towards noon my father endeavoured to converse with some of the natives who came into the ship. At sight of the fish, which was hung under the half-deck, they made signs that it occasioned pain in the stomach, and by leaning their heads upon one hand, and shutting their eyes, expressed that it caused sleep and drowsiness, and death. Still thinking they might only make these gestures in order to obtain the fish, we offered it to them, but they refused it with the strongest marks of aversion, holding both their hands out before them, and turning away the head. They afterwards desired us to throw it into the sea, but we determined to preserve it in spirits of wine.

I was severely punished about noon for making light of my complaint, and passing the morning at work; for I was suddenly seized with sickness, and forced to go to bed, by a returning fit of dizziness. The only remedies which gave any relief, were sudorifics; but the poison was of too virulent a nature, to be subdued in a short time. It prevented our making those researches, which from the nature of the country before us, would doubtless have teemed with a variety of interesting discoveries in every branch of natural history. [Friday 9.]The next morning lieutenant Pickersgill, was sent with the launch and another boat, to an island to the west, about eight leagues distant, which the natives named Balabeea; in order to examine the situation and direction of the coasts in that part. We saw these boats put off with the greatest regret, being obliged by the continuance of our dizziness, to forego this opportunity of examining an extensive tract of unknown country. Absolute inability to stand or walk longer than five minutes at a time, was the only circumstance which with-held us from embarking on this excursion. The poison which had been thus fatal to us, had likewise affected several dogs, taken on board at the Society Islands; these creatures having seized upon the remains of the liver, were extremely ill, and had the same symptoms as those which were poisoned at Mallicollo. A little pig, the only one which we obtained at Tanna, having eaten the entrails of the fish, died soon after, being swelled to an unusual size.

The natives who came on board, began now to admire our iron ware, and readily took nails, knives, and hatchets. Tea-booma the chief, sent captain Cook a present of some sugar-canes and yams, which, considering the poverty of the country, was indeed a kingly present. He was complimented in return with a hatchet, a gimlet, and a Taheitian dog of each sex, these animals being entirely unknown in the country. We endeavoured to obtain the name of this great island from the natives, but we could not succeed, being always put off with the appellations of particular districts. Thus for instance, they called the part opposite to the ship, Baladd the observatory island, Poozooe; and the district beyond the hills on the S. W. coast, Teabooma; which being also the name of the chief, occasioned several conjectures. The general name of New Caledonia was therefore preserved, particularly as it suited not only with the good disposition of the people, but also with the nature of the country.

We ventured, though excessively weakened, to go on shore [Saturday 10.]the next morning. Having landed to the eastward of the watering-place, we walked across a part of the plain, which was wholly uncultivated, and covered with thin dry grasses. A path brought us into a fine wood at the foot of the hills, which abounded with new plants, birds, and insects. Every thing conspired here, to make us look upon the country as a solitude. We saw the hills before us, and on both sides, without a single habitation upon them, and the plain which we had crossed, was in this neighbourhood equally destitute of inhabitants. The population of New Caledonia must indeed be extremely thin; for the soil is unfit for cultivation on the mountains, and the narrow plain itself, is for the greatest part very barren and desert. We proceeded to the eastward, till we came near a few houses, placed among swamps. Some of the inhabitants came to us with great good-nature in their countenances, and pointed out the places where we might walk with safety without sinking into the mud. We observed that their houses had not only a covering of mats made of coco-nut leaves, but that the innermost coating sometimes consisted of the bark of the cayputi-tree. Before one of the huts, some of the natives were eating a few leaves which had been stewed; and others sucking the bark of the hibiscus tiliaceus, after they had broiled it over the fire. We tasted of this bark, but found it extremely insipid, nauseous, and affording little nutriment. Necessity seems to have forced the people to content themselves with the most scanty means of subsistence, at certain seasons; and no time of the year is more likely to be severely felt, than that of spring, when their winter shores is exhausted, and the new crop is not yet come up. They doubtless supply the deficiency by fishing, for which the extensive reefs round their island furnish the best opportunity; but since our arrival in the harbour it had blown rather fresh, and the wind daily encreased to such a pitch, that it would have been to no purpose to venture from the shore. Mahine, whilst he accompanied us, frequently used to mention, that even the opulent natives of Taheitee and the Society Islands, sometimes, though rarely, feel the inconveniences of a dry or barren year, and are obliged during some months, to have recourse to fern-roots, the bark of various trees, and the fruit of wild bushes, to satisfy the cravings of hunger.

We found near these huts a number of tame fowls of a large breed, and bright plumage, which were the only domestic animals of any kind, belonging to the natives; and also saw heaps of shells, which they had collected on the reefs, and of which they had eaten the fish. The temper of these people in general was indolent, and almost destitute of curiosity; the greater part of them did not stir from their seats, when we passed by their huts, spoke very seldom, and almost always in a serious tone. The women were somewhat more cheerful, and those who were married, carried their infants on their backs in a kind of satchel.

We returned on board about one o'clock, but landed again after dinner. Having observed that the bushes and trees near the sea-side, were better stocked with birds than those in the interior country, because they afforded more shade and more food, we confined our excursion to the plain, being desirous of encreasing our zoological collection. We fell in with another group of huts, close to the water; here the natives had put one of their large earthen pots over the fire, and filled it with shells, of which by this means they roasted the fish. We saw one of them who had a hatchet in his hand, of a very remarkable shape. It was made of a crooked piece of wood, which forms a great knob, but has a short handle, not exceeding six inches. The other end is hollowed out, and a black stone just fitting the cavity is placed in it, without being tied on, as is the case with the hatchets of the Society and Friendly Islands.22 We purchased this hatchet, it being the first instrument relating to agriculture which we had seen in this country. We likewise made an acquisition of some clubs, slings, and spears, and had an opportunity of admiring the skill of several youths, who made use of their slings with the greatest precision. In the course of our rambles, we came to an enclosure of sticks, round a little hillock or mound, four feet high; within the enclosure the natives had stuck in the ground some other sticks beset with large trumpet-shells. We enquired for what purpose this spot was so enclosed, and were told that the chiefs of the district were buried in that ground. As we found numerous burying-places on the hills, it appears to be a general custom with the natives, to commit their dead bodies to the earth. This manner of disposing of the dead, seems indeed much more judicious than that of Taheitee, where they expose them above ground, till all the flesh is perfectly putrified. If the mortality were more considerable, than we have reason to believe it in that happy island, this custom might have the most pernicious consequences, and produce a dreadful epidemical distemper. Europeans, above all, should be extremely cautious of communicating any contagious disorder to the people whom they visit in the South Seas. Such a disease as the small pox, for example, would undoubtedly make dreadful havock, and go near to destroy the whole race of Taheitians.23

The acrimony of the poison which we had received into the body, by tasting the liver of the fish, had so much weakened us, that we were entirely exhausted towards evening, and obliged to sit down repeatedly, in order to recruit our wasted spirits. We still felt returns of dizziness which made us unfit for any kind of researches, in spite of ourselves, and even deprived us of the power of thinking, judging, and remembering, as well as of the perfect use of our external senses. I cannot mention this misfortune, without lamenting once more, that it befell us in a country newly discovered, where we had more need than ever of perfect health, and of all our attention and discernment, in order to make the most of the few moments which we were allowed to spend among a people wholly different from all we had hitherto seen. The reader, who perhaps may find less food for his curiosity in this part of our narrative, than he expected, is requested to consider our unhappy situation at that time, when all our corporeal and intellectual faculties were impaired by this virulent poison. We came back before it was dark to the ship, which the natives left soon after our return. A few of them only went off in canoes; for, as the wind blew very hard, the greatest number had come on board swimming, and returned the same way. We saw forty of fifty put off together, and in spite of the great agitation of the water, swim to the shore; it blew so hard the next morning, however, that none of them came back to the ship.

[Sunday 11.]We went ashore again, though we were much wetted in our passage thither, and took a walk to the westward. On this excursion we saw a great number of birds, and enriched our collection with many new species. It is not to be doubted, that the vicinity of such an extensive continent as that of New Holland, contributes to encrease the variety of animal and vegetable species in this island. To confirm this assertion, we may quote the testimony of captain Cook, and of all those persons who had seen New Holland with him in the Endeavour, and who, upon examining New Caledonia, unanimously pronounced that in its general appearance it perfectly resembled that continent. New Holland is said to differ from New Caledonia only in having a more fertile soil in some places, consisting of a stratum of vegetable earth; but there is no difference in the growth of the trees, the want of shrubbery in the forests, and the general dryness or parched appearance of the country.24 We stopped at several houses of the natives, situated in a group of shady trees; the inhabitants of these huts were seated on the ground, without any occupation, and none but young people rose from their seats at our approach. We found here a man who had perfectly flaxen hair, a complexion much fairer than common, and his face covered with freckles.25 Anomalous individuals have been found among the Negroes of Africa, and the inhabitants of America, the Moluccas, and the tropical islands of the South Sea; but their weak habit of body, and particularly a weakness in their eyes, have given the greatest room to believe, that a disease of the parents occasioned these varieties [249] This opinion is very ably set forth by M. Paauw, in the Recherches Philosophiques sur le Americains, vol. II. sect. I. Des Blasards & des Negres blancs. . In the man whom we saw, no symptom of weakness, and no defect in the organs of sight could be observed; and therefore some slighter cause must have influenced the colour of his hair and skin. A gentleman cut off a lock of his hair, as well as another from a man of the common colour, and gave them both to us. The natives expressed some dislike on losing their lock of hair, but as he had performed the operation before they were aware, he soon pacified them with a few trifles.26 Their good temper, and their indolence, seem to make their resentment very short-lived, especially upon trifling occasions.

After leaving these huts, we rambled separately all the morning, and did not rejoin each other till it was time to return. Dr. Sparrman, with my father, had gone upon the hills, whilst I remained in the woody skirts of the plain, and conversed as well as I could with the natives. They gave me the names of many districts upon their island, of which we had not heard before, and of which we could not make use, for want of knowing their proper situations. Here I saw again many individuals with one leg, or arm, of an enormous size, in the same manner as I had observed some at our first landing, (see p. 383.) and one had both his legs afflicted in the same manner. I touched this swelling, and found it extremely hard; but the skin was not harsh and scaly alike in all the sick persons. The preternatural expansion of the leg or arm did not appear to be a great inconvenience to them, and, as far as I understood, they rarely feel any pain in it; but in some the disorder caused a kind of excoriation, and began to form blotches, which were marks of a greater degree of virulence. The leprosy, of which this elephantiasis, or prodigious swelling, according to the opinion of the medical faculty, is a species, seems to be a disease particularly incident to dry, parched climates. The countries where it commits the greatest ravages, as the coast of Malabar, Egypt, Palestine, and all Africa, are remarkable for droughts, and contain in many places vast tracts of sandy desarts. I do not mean to suppose that leprosy is the natural effect of a dry climate, but only to hint, that heat and drought may contribute to make the human body more liable to its attacks. I observed this day that the women of New Caledonia are hardly so much esteemed by the men as those of Tanna. They commonly kept at a distance from the men, and seemed fearful of offending them by a look or gesture; they were the only persons in the family who had any employment, and several of them brought bundles of sticks and fuel on their backs. Their insensible husbands seldom deigned to look upon them, and continued in a kind of phlegmatic indolence, whilst the women sometimes indulged that social cheerfulness, which is the distinguishing ornament of the sex. Thus, in every country, mankind are fond of being tyrants, and the poorest Indian, who knows no wants but those which his existence requires, has already learnt to enslave his weaker helpmate, in order to save himself the trouble of supplying those wants, and cruelly exacts an obedience from her, which has been continued among savages as a curse upon the sex [250] Gen. iii. ver. 16. . Considering these humiliations and cruel oppressions of the sex, we have sometimes the greatest reason to admire, that the human race has perpetuated itself, and that the Creator has wisely planted a motive in the female breast, which stands the test of every outrage, which makes them patient to suffer, and prevents their withdrawing from the power of their tyrants.

After dining on board, we passed the afternoon ashore again, and were so far successful in our researches, as to obtain a beautiful species of parrot, which was entirely new to zoologists. It was shot in a plantation far exceeding every thing I had seen upon New Caledonia for extent, as well as for the variety and flourishing state of the vegetables in it. There were several walks of bananas, several fields of yams and eddoes, together with sugar-canes, and likewise some species of yamboo-trees ( eugenia), which we had never seen before. Different parts of it were separated by paths, and the whole was kept in good order. Industrious individuals are therefore to be met with even among these indolent people; and when navigators have an opportunity of becoming the benefactors of savages, for example, by giving them domestic animals, they should select such people as are most likely to make a good use of their presents.

We returned on board in the evening, after shooting at a mark to amuse some of the natives, who set up their clubs for that purpose, and were much pleased with our supposed skill. Soon after arrived the two boats with lieutenant Pickersgill had conducted to the westward, and which had been detained by contrary winds. We were fortunate enough to collect the following particulars of that intelligent officer's excursion. Having set out from the ship, he did not approach the shore till he had advanced several leagues, and saw many turtles on the water, of which he could not strike one, on account of the violence of the wind. The boats putting ashore, found the face of the country, towards the N. W. end of the island, very like the part opposite our anchoring place, though considerably more fertile and cultivated, and covered with many coco-trees. The natives were as civil and inoffensive in this place as we had found them from the beginning. Two of them, who had already been on board the ship, hearing that our people intended to cross over to the isle of Balabeea, more to the northward, took a passage in the cutter. One of them, whose name was Boobik, was a merry fellow, different in this respect from most of his countrymen; he talked a great deal to our people at first, and taught them his name, which they pronounced booby, with the same pleasure with which he heard it. After some time, however, the waves rising, and frequently washing into the boat, he became very silent, and crept into a boat-cloak, to screen himself from the wet, and recover from the chilliness which the wind occasioned on his naked body. He likewise grew very hungry, having taken no provisions with him, and very thankfully received what our people offered him. His situation, and that of all his companions, however, became very soon alarming to the highest degree. The cutter sprung a leak, which admitted such quantities of water, that it was impossible to free the boat, though every body baled with his hat, or such utensil as he could find most fit for the purpose. They were presently reduced to heave over-board a cask of fresh water, and many other articles, in order to lighten the boat; but all was to no purpose, till having cleared away some bundles, they found the leak, which they stopped as well as they could for the present with their caps, and with rags, and proceeded for the isle of Balabeea with all possible dispatch. Mr. Pickersgill, in the launch, met a canoe of that island with a few natives, who had caught a large quantity of fish, of which they readily shared out a part to him for a trifling consideration of iron-ware. It was late in the afternoon when he arrived upon the island. The natives, being exactly of the same race as those of New Caledonia, were not less good-tempered, and freely parted with their arms to our people for trifles of iron-ware, or Taheitee cloth. They also, at the desire of Mr. Pickersgill, brought him some fresh water.

In the evening our party retired to a few bushes, and made a great fire, by which they broiled the fish which had been presented to them, and ate their suppers. A number of the natives still remained with them, and spoke of a great land to the northward, which they called Mingha, of which the inhabitants were their enemies, and very warlike. They likewise pointed out a sepulchral mound or tumulus, where one of their chiefs lay buried, who had been killed in defence of his own country, by the hand of a native of Mingha.27 The appearance of a large beef-bone, which some of our people began to pick towards the conclusion of their supper, interrupted this conversation. The natives talked very loud and earnestly to each other, looked with great surprize, and some marks of disgust, at our people, and at last went away all together, expressing by signs that they suspected the strangers of eating human flesh. Our officer endeavoured to free himself and his shipmates from this suspicion; but the want of language was an unsurmountable obstacle to this undertaking, even supposing it possible to persuade a set of people, who had never seen a quadruped in their lives. The next morning they went about to mend their boat, and spread their wet cloaths upon the ground to dry in the sun. The natives gathered about them in great crouds from all parts of the island, and Mr. Pickersgill found it adviseable to draw lines on the sand, in order to secure the cloaths of his people. The natives very readily came into his proposal, and never crossed the lines. One of them, however, seemed to be more surprised than all the rest at this contrivance, and with a great deal of humour drew a circle round about himself, on the ground, with a stick; and intimated, by many ludicrous gestures, that every body present should keep at a distance from him. This little sally was the more striking, as it was extremely uncommon among the grave inhabitants of these countries. They spent the day in repairing their boats, and examining the island on which they had landed; and the next morning before day-break put off, in order to return. They were, however, unfortunate enough to find their repairs to little purpose, and therefore, in order to lighten the boat, landed on New Caledonia at six in the morning. They left only the rowers in the boat, and proceeded on foot, along a coast of near twenty-four miles, to the land abreast of the ship. One of the surgeon's mates, who went on this excursion, collected a prodigious variety of new and curious shells upon the island of Ballabeea, and likewise met with many new species of plants, of which we did not see a single specimen in the districts we had visited; but the meanest and most unreasonable envy taught him to conceal these discoveries from us, though he was utterly incapable of making use of them for the benefit of science [251] It will not be improper to acquaint the reader, that we were so situated on board the Resolution, as to meet with obstacles in all our researches, from those who might have been expected to give us all manner of assistance. It has always been the fate of science and philosophy to incur the contempt of ignorance, and this we might have suffered without repining; but as we could not purchase the good will of every petty tyrant with gold, we were studiously debarred the means of drawing the least advantage to science from the observations of others, who of themselves did not know how to make the proper use of a discovery when they had made it. Circumstances which were known to every person around us, remained impenetrable mysteries to us; and it was assuredly not owing to the good nature of our shipmates, if we have been fortunate enough to obtain even such trifling information, as has enabled me to give the true and exact situations of every place in this narrative, and in my chart. If it had been possible, they would have deceived even our eyes. It may seem extraordinary, that men of science, sent out in a ship belonging to the most enlightened nation in the world, should be cramped and deprived of the means of pursuing knowledge, in a manner which would only become a set of barbarians; but it is certain, that the traveller who visits the ruins of Egypt and Palestine, cannot experience greater mortification from the ignorant selfishness of Bedouins and other Arabs, than fell to our lot; since every discovery we attempted to make, was supposed to contain a treasure, which became the object of envy. The world will, however, derive one advantage from this proceeding; we shall have little to offer, but what we have seen with our own eyes, and for the truth and precision of which we can be answerable. If there had not been a few individuals of a more liberal way of thinking, whose disinterested love for the sciences comforted us from time to time, we should in all probability have fallen victims to that malevolence, which even the positive commands of captain Cook were sometimes insufficient to keep within bounds. .28 We had therefore more reason than ever to regret that our illness disabled us from sharing the perils of this little excursion.

We accompanied captain Cook the next morning into the river to the eastward, where he went to give his friend Heebaï a little pig of each sex, in order to provide, if possible, a stock of domestic animals for a nation, whose good, inoffensive temper seemed highly to deserve such a present. We found this man and his family at the huts where we had first seen him; and captain Cook having delivered the pigs to him, each of us contributed his mite of knowledge of the language, in order to make it intelligible to him, that the propagation of these animals would supply him, in course of time, with constant food, and that they deserved to be carefully nursed. He, as well as the whole family, were surprised at the sight of these creatures, and at first expressed so much dislike and dread of them, that they made signs to us to take them back. We now redoubled our efforts to convince them of their error, and at last prevailed upon them to keep the pigs. It must be allowed, that swine are far from being well-looking quadrupeds, and that those who have never seen an animal of that class, cannot be supposed to like them at first sight. Men seem to have had recourse to animal food through necessity at first, as the depriving any creature of life is an act of violence, which demands a powerful cause, before it is made familiar by habit. When they had the choice, it should seem that such ill-looking animals as hogs were commonly rejected, till a more urgent opportunity proved, that, in spite of their appearance, their flesh was as delicious as that of sheep and oxen. The poor natives of New Caledonia had hitherto tasted no other animal food than fish and birds, and therefore the introduction of a quadruped into their œconomy, could not fail to surprise them. We walked about for some time among the marshes and plantations, and came to a house detached from the rest, which was enclosed by stakes, and behind which we saw a row of wooden pillars.29 Each of them was about a foot square, and nine feet high; and on the top of each a human head was rudely carved. Here we found a solitary old man, who, on our pointing to these pillars, made signs that they indicated his burying-place. Nothing is more remarkable in the history of mankind, than the general concurrence of different nations, to erect a monument on the spot where they lie buried. To dive into the original motives for this custom, with various people, would be a curious and interesting pursuit, and might perhaps lead us to discover, among all nations an universal idea of a future state.

After leaving this spot, we passed a plantation, where the natives, and particularly the women, were at work to clear, and dig up a piece of swampy ground, probably in order to plant it with yams or eddoes. They had an instrument with a long crooked, and sharp-pointed bill, like the bill of a bird, with which they stirred up the soil. The same tool they frequently make use of as an offensive weapon, and as such I mentioned it on page 385. It seems the soil of this country is so poor, as to require more than ordinary pains to make it fit for planting, especially as I never observed the people digging in this manner, in any of the islands of the South Sea.30 We shot some curious and beautiful birds at this place, and then returned to the ship, where we found all the other boats hoisted in. We landed at the watering-place after dinner, where captain Cook ordered the following inscription to be cut into a remarkable large and shady tree on the beach, close to the rivulet; " His Britannic Majesty's Ship Resolution, Sept. 1774." This being done, we rambled for the last time along the brook, which had supplied us with as much water as we had expended since our departure from Tanna; and having snatched a few plants, which our disorder had caused us to overlook before, we took our last leave of this large island, and were hurried on board from our scene of action.

[Tuesday 13.]At day-light the next morning, the seamen weighed the anchors, the ship soon cleared the reefs, and we stood along shore to the N. W. We had lain in this harbour exactly seven days and a half; but on the third night after our arrival, we were poisoned by eating of the fish, by which means we lost the opportunity of making the most of this short stay. On leaving this place, we were far from being recovered, but had daily acute head-aches, and spasmodic pains over the body, together with an eruption on our lips. We also felt ourselves much weakened, and unfit to go through our usual occupations; whilst the want of fresh food greatly contributed to keep us in a lingering state, and retarded our recovery. Thus we left an island situated in the westernmost part of the South Pacific Ocean, not above 12 degrees distant from the coast of New Holland, and inhabited by a race of men very distinct from all we had hitherto seen in the same ocean. From their vicinity to New Holland, one might have been apt to suppose, that they had the same origin with the people of that continent; but upon comparing all the accounts of former voyagers, who have visited New Holland, its inhabitants bear no resemblance to one another, and as a farther proof, the vocabulary of both nations is totally different [252] A vocabulary of the New Holland language was obligingly communicated to us by captain Cook. . Their numbers appear to be very inconsiderable, and the most probable guess we would form of them, after ranging the whole northern coast of the island, does not make them amount to fifty thousand, upon a sea-coast of near two hundred leagues. The country which they inhabit, seems indeed to be very unfit for cultivation in most parts. The narrow plain which surrounds it, is full of swamps on the sea-side, covered with mangroves; and this part is with much trouble drained by ditches, and dug till it is made fit for the purposes of agriculture. The rest of the plain is somewhat higher, but in return excessively dry, so that they are obliged to moisten it by means of canals which conduct the water from the rivulets or pools. Beyond this several hillocks rise, covered with a dry parched earth, where some species of shrivelled grass, the cayputi-tree, and a few shrubs thrive, at a great distance asunder; and from thence upwards, the interior mountains are almost entirely destitute of vegetable earth in many places, and consist of a shining red glimmer, and large pieces of quartz. The nature of this soil cannot give luxuriance to the growth of vegetables; on the contrary, it is rather surprising, that such a variety of species spring up in it, as we met with, though they are for the greatest part dry, and of a very homely appearance. Only the woods on some parts of the plain, are filled with shrubberies, bind-weeds, gay flowers, and tufted shady trees. It is easy to be conceived, that the contrast between Nova Caledonia, and the New Hebrides, was very striking to us, who had so lately visited those rich and fertile islands, where the vegetable kingdom glories in its greatest perfection. The difference in the character of the people was no less surprising. All the natives of the South Sea islands, excepting those only which Tasman found on Tonga-Tabboo and Namoka [253] And those perhaps had been informed of what had passed between le Maire, and the natives of Horne, Cocos, and Traitors Island, some years before. , made some attempt to drive away the strangers who came to visit them. But the people of New Caledonia at the first sight of us, received us as friends; they ventured to come on board our ship, without the least marks of fear or distrust, and suffered us to ramble freely throughout their country as far as we pleased. They resembled most the people of Tanna in colour, and the woolliness of their hair; but their stature was superior, their limbs in general more stout, their features more mild, open, and inoffensive; and their customs in many respects very different. The peculiar character of their faces may be seen in the accurate portraits which Mr. Hodges has drawn of each sex, and which are engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. A just idea of the country may likewise be formed, by consulting the views which that ingenious artist has copied from nature. There is, however, some similarity between their manufactures, and those of Tanna; especially in the shape of their arms, in the use of the rope or becket, (see p. 279.) to throw the spear, in the nature of the ornaments which they wear, and particularly in what I have mentioned p. 277, and p. 383 [254] Their arms, their cap, their becket, and various other articles have been accurately drawn and engraved, under my father's inspection, for captain Cook's account of this voyage.32 . The language, which on these occasions is the surest guide, is totally dissonant;31 their dwellings are of a different construction, and their mode of living seems to correspond only in a few instances. The people of Tanna are rich, in comparison with those of New Caledonia; their plantations furnish them with abundance of vegetables, and if these should fail, the woods on their sea-shore are full of coco-palms, which offer an ample store of fruits. At New Caledonia, the plantations yield in most places a scanty produce; and the wild country, as far as we had an opportunity of examining it, does not contain a single article which could be deemed of great service. On the other hand, the people of New Caledonia seem to be great fishermen, and the reefs round their island, give them excellent opportunities for this purpose, and are doubtless at certain seasons, the resort of turtles. As nature has been so sparing here of her gifts, it is the most surprising, that instead of seeing the inhabitants savage, distrustful, and warlike as at Tanna, we should find them peaceable, well-disposed, and unsuspicious. It is not less remarkable, that in spite of the drought which prevails in their country, and the scanty supply of vegetable food, they should have attained to a greater size, and a more muscular body. Perhaps instead of placing the causes which effect disparity of stature among various nations in the difference of food, this instance ought to teach us, to have some retrospect likewise to the original races from which those tribes are descended, that fell under our examination. Let us for instance suppose, that the people of New Caledonia are the offspring of a nation, who by living in affluence, and in a genial climate, have not been stinted in their growth; the colony which removed into the barren soil of New Caledonia, will probably preserve the habit of body of their ancestors for many generations. The people of Tanna may have undergone a contrary revolution, and being descended of a slender and short race, like the Mallicollese, the richness of their present country may not yet entirely have taken effect. These hints are submitted to the learned, whose province it is to confirm or refute them; but on which side soever the truth may fall, I shall rest equally contented, as I have adopted no particular system.

The inoffensive character of the people of New Caledonia appears to great advantage in their conduct towards us. They are the only people in the South Seas who have not had reason to complain of our arrival among them. When we consider how easy it is to provoke the mariner to sport with the lives of Indians, from the numerous examples throughout this narrative, we must acknowledge that it required an uncommon degree of good temper, not to draw upon themselves a single act of brutality. Those philosophers who are of opinion that the temper, the manners, and genius of a people, depend entirely upon the climate, will be at a loss to account for the peaceful character of the inhabitants of New Caledonia. If we admit that they are only strangers to distrust, because they have little to lose, we shall not solve the difficulty; since the people of New Holland, under the influence of a similar climate and soil, and in a more wretched situation than the inhabitants of New Caledonia, are savage and unsociable. The different characters of nations seem therefore to depend upon a multitude of different causes, which have acted together during a series of many ages. The inhabitants of New Caledonia do not owe their kind disposition to a total ignorance of wars and disputes; the variety of their offensive weapons being alone sufficient to put this matter out of doubt. By conversing with them we learnt that they have enemies, and that the people of an island called Mingha had a very different character from their own. I was once in a boat with captain Cook and Mr. Wales, when one of the natives acquainted us by very significant and intelligible gestures, that they had enemies who feasted on human flesh; and the behaviour of the inhabitants of Balabeea, on seeing our people eat salt beef, which they mistook for human flesh, contributes to prove that such a custom is not unknown to them, and that they look upon it with horror and detestation. Civilization is therefore much farther advanced in this respect among them, than with their more opulent neighbours. That higher degree of culture, where the understanding is sufficiently enlightened to remove the unjust contempt shewn to the fair sex, is however unknown to them; their temper is too grave to be captivated by female blandishments, or to set a proper value upon the refined enjoyments of life. They are obliged to work hard, at times, for the means of subsistence; but their leisure hours are spent in indolence, without those little recreations which contribute so much to the happiness of mankind, and diffuse a spirit of cheerfulness and vivacity throughout the Society and Friendly Islands. Besides the little whistle which I have mentioned above, we never saw a musical instrument among the people of New Caledonia. Their dances and songs are equally unknown to us; and what we observed during our short stay, gave us reason to suppose, that even laughter is an uncommon guest among them. They are likewise niggards of speech, and we rarely met with individuals among them, who took a pleasure in holding converse with us. Their language therefore seems to be uncultivated, and their pronunciation so indistinct, that the vocabularies which several of our shipmates collected, disagreed remarkably. Though they have few harsh consonants, they have a frequent return of gutturals and sometimes a nasal sound, or rhinismus, which commonly puzzled those who were not acquainted with any other language than the English. Perhaps, their plantations lying remote from each other, are the means of preventing that familiar intercourse which would gradually give life to the pleasures of society. As their country seems not to be very fit for agriculture, the best means to forward civilization among them might be the introduction of quadrupeds, such as they should not find it difficult to maintain; for instance, a few hogs, to keep near their huts, and goats to run wild. The latter in all probability would thrive extremely well in that dry climate, and afford an excellent article of food.

That simplicity which is remarkable in their domestic life, cannot fail to be conspicuous in their government. Teàbooma was acknowledged as a chief in the district opposite the ship's anchoring-place, but the poverty of the country did not afford him great and exclusive advantages, and luxury being hitherto unknown, he lived like the rest of his countrymen. Among a people so simple we cannot expect exterior marks of deference; and the only act which seemed to indicate a certain degree of homage on their part, consisted in delivering to the chief, the presents which they had received from Mr. Pickersgill at their first interview. The neighbouring districts are not under the government of Teàbooma, and probably have their own chiefs; or perhaps each family forms a little kingdom of its own, which is directed by its patriarch, as must be the case in all infant states. We cannot attempt to extend our observations to the religion of the natives, of which, in the space of eight days, we had no opportunity of acquiring any information. We did not observe any thing which might distantly be construed into a religious act, nor remark a single custom which had the least colour of superstition. Probably the simplicity of their ideas on this subject, corresponds with the whole tenour of their character. There is nothing to disprove this supposition, unless the slight marks which point out their burying-places, should be deemed indications that some ceremonies attend their funerals. Death, the most remarkable scene in the oeconomy of human affairs, is commonly honoured with some unusual act by the survivors; and grief is particularly apt to be extravagant. It remains unknown whether the mortality is great or moderate at New Caledonia, and what diseases are most fatal in that island. We saw no other than the elephantiasis, a sort of leprosy, which I have already mentioned, and which was very common. However, I never observed this evil in so violent a degree, that the patient seemed to be in danger of losing his life by it. Upon the whole, a great multitude of diseases are the consequences of unbounded luxury, and cannot take place among persons so little refined as those of New Caledonia. I saw some among them whose grey hair and wrinkles indicated a great age; but it was impossible to converse with them upon such an abstract idea as age, supposing they took the pains to number their years. We were not able to make ourselves understood when we attempted to make enquiries at Taheitee concerning the age of the inhabitants, though our knowledge of their language was very extensive, when compared with the few words which we had snatched up in haste on New Caledonia. After these few remarks, I resume the narrative of the voyage.

We steered between the north and west, along the reefs which enclose New Caledonia, in order to ascertain the position of lands which we had indistinctly seen in that quarter. Having advanced towards Balabeea, we found the reefs running northerly, and in some places near six leagues from the shore. Man of war birds, boobies, and tropic birds frequented this part of the sea in great numbers, hovering about our ship. [Thursday 15.]We discovered on the 15th, that there were three islands to the north of the west end of New Caledonia; but, as the reef extended very far to the east of them, and we could find no passage, it was impossible to form an exact idea of their figure and extent. The largest of them might be about seven leagues long. We were becalmed on the 15th, within four miles of the reef, towards which a heavy swell drifted us very visibly. In order to prevent striking on these dangerous rocks, we hoisted out two boats, and the crew were obliged to labour very hard to tow the ship off. A faint breeze in the evening gave them some respite, but at midnight they were obliged to return to their work, releasing each other from time to time. [Friday 16.]The morning was so calm that we went out to shoot birds, but had little success. We did not obtain a breeze till the evening came on, and then, instead of losing our time in farther researches to the northward, where we tried in vain to find a passage, we left that part, and prepared to range the south-east end of New Caledonia. The northernmost lands, which we had seen, lie in 19° 37' S. and 163° 40' E.

[Saturday 17.]The next morning we passed the district of Ballàdd, where we had lain at anchor. Repeated calms rendered our course very tedious; we did not advance above twenty leagues in two days, and still seeing the land to the south of us, were apprehensive of coming late to New Zeeland, where it was now said we should prepare for the last southern cruize. We continued however standing to the eastward, and somewhat southerly, having gentle breezes which lasted several hours, between the calm intervals. [Thursday 22.]On the 22d, in the evening, we saw a remarkable bluff point on the land, which was named Cape Coronation, in commemoration of that day. The reefs which had enclosed the northern coasts of New Caledonia, did not extend to this part; but as we had hitherto kept at the distance of four or five leagues, we could not discern any thing of the nature of the country, except that the ridge of mountains continued to run along of the same height as near our anchoring-place, and without any remarkable prominences or peaks. In the morning we saw a spot of ground, which could not be less than half a mile in length, from whence a quantity of smoke ascended. The sea coast near it was covered with innumerable columnar forms, of a considerable height, which we distinguished by the help of our glasses. Some of them stood remote from each other, but far the greater part were place in close, and seemingly compact, groups. The nature of the pillars of Basaltes, which are found in many parts of the world [255] Near Assuan, or Syene, in Upper Egypt.; at Bolsena in Italy; near Hadiè in Arabia Felix; at Hildesheim, Stolpen, and Yauer, in different parts of Germany; in the Hebrides of Scotland; and in the county of Antrim in Ireland. , gave us some reason to look upon these extraordinary appearances as so many colonnades of Basaltes; and having so lately seen several volcanoes in the neighbourhood, and one so near as Tanna, we were greatly strengthened in this opinion, it being asserted by the most judicious and experienced mineralogists, that basaltes is a volcanic production. In the evening, having left Cape Coronation astern, we discerned a vast quantity of these columnar forms projecting into the sea, on a flat point.

Early on the 24th, we came in sight of a cape which terminated New Caledonia to the east; it was rather steep, but of no great height, and perfectly level at the top to a considerable distance. A number of pillars stood upon it, which something invalidated the opinion of their being basalt-columns. This cape, which captain Cook named Queen Charlotte's Foreland, lies in 22° 15' S. and 167° 15' E. In the evening, towards six o'clock, another island was discovered far to the south-east from the mast-head, and the next morning several small islands appeared between New Caledonia and this new discovery, which the instability of the wind would not permit us to examine. We observed, however, that a great reef enclosed these islands, which seemed entirely to preclude a passage, and obliged us to stand on to the eastward, in order to weather all the distant land in sight. This part of our cruize was extremely disagreeable and tantalizing; we longed to have an opportunity of examining the country, and were at present in great distress for fresh food. A scanty portion of yams remained, which were eaten as dainties at the officers tables; but the crew had not tasted any refreshments since our departure from Namoka. The appearance of new lands made but little amends for the involuntary fast which we kept, and only supported our hopes of making some fortunate discovery, which might perhaps offer us fresh supplies.

We did not obtain a settled breeze till the 26th in the evening, when we immediately began to ply to windward, in order to double the large island before us. It consisted of a mountain of less elevation than New Caledonia, and easy of ascent, every where surrounded by flat land, on which the columnar bodies were innumerable. As we made several trips within two miles in-shore, we were at last convinced that they were nothing else than trees, which on a prodigious tall stem had short and slender branches, not discernible at a distance.33

We doubled the eastermost extremity of this island, and of its reefs, on the 28th, at day-break, and then bore away along its south-east shore. Captain Cook gave it the name of Isle of Pines, suspecting the columnar trees upon it to be of that kind. It seems to be about eighteen leagues in circumference, and the middle is situated in 22° 40' S. and 167° 40' E. The south-east wind, which had now set in very fresh, cooled the air so much in this latitude, that the thermometer sunk to 68°, which caused a disagreeable sensation to our bodies, long used to a warmer climate. [Thursday 29.]The next day we found a passage between several reefs, and came to an anchor off a little island, not above two miles in circuit, which was covered with tall columnar trees, though it was intirely flat and sandy. The south end of New Caledonia was not above six leagues distant from hence, and the southern coast of that island seemed to run nearly parallel to the northern, giving the whole a long, narrow shape. This south point, which was called the Prince of Wales's Foreland, lies in 22° 30' S. and 166° 58' E.

We hoisted a boat out immediately, and rowed to the little islet, which was about a mile and a half from us. It was surrounded with a small reef of its own, in which we found a narrow passage, containing many rocks, notwithstanding which we landed with safety. The tall trees immediately demanded our first attention, and we found that they belonged to the genus of cypresses. They were remarkably strait, and at least ninety or a hundred feet high. Their branches grew round the stem, forming little tufts, but seldom exceeded the length of ten feet, and were very slender in proportion. A variety of other trees and shrubs grew up between them, and rendered this little spot the resort of a great number of birds. We saw here also some scurvy-grass, and another plant ( tetragonia), which we commonly made use of at New Zeeland in our soups. Captain Cook returned to the ship with us, after this discovery, intending to land again after dinner, in order to cut down some of the trees, and to collect some greens. We met with a variety of plants in the afternoon, which quite surprised us, on such a confined spot. We also saw some fire-places on its sandy shores, on which lay the remains of several turtles, which had probably afforded a delicious repast to some of the natives. A species of hawk was shot, which proved to be the common falco haliaëtos, or osprey [256] See Mr. Pennant's British Zoology.34 ; a kind of fly-catcher likewise fell into our hands, which was not known before; but besides this we saw several large beautiful pigeons, which we could not shoot. Flat-tailed water-snakes ( anguis platura) were likewise numerous upon the island. The cypress-trees were found to be exceeding good timber, and the younger ones were very elastic, and fit for studding sail-booms. After rambling about this little spot till near sun-set, we all returned on board, and at day-light the next morning, [Friday 30.]weighed the anchor, and sailed slowly on to clear the reefs. Captain Cook gave this little islet the name of Botany Island, because it contained in so small a space a flora of near thirty species, among which we saw several new ones. Its situation is nearly 22° 28' S. and 167° 16' E. Its soil is very sandy on the shores, but in the interior part mixed with vegetable earth, from the trees and plants which continually decay on it, without being cleared away by human industry. Whilst we lay at anchor, the first lieutenant caught a fish, exactly of the same species with that which poisoned captain Cook, my father, and myself. He ordered it to be cleaned and boiled, in spite of the earnest representations of all his messmates, who warned him against its pernicious effects. It was at last set before him, by his positive orders, and his friends found no other means to save him, than to ridicule his mad design. Their humorous and satirical remarks had a better effect than friendly admonitions, and he desisted from the attempt. A little dog was, however, unfortunate enough to eat of the entrails of the fish, and lay several days in such exquisite torments, that it was at last thrown overboard, to put an end to its pain and misery. This circumstance proves to what great distresses we were now driven for want of fresh food, since even the risk of being poisoned was made light of, for the sake of a single meal. All our officers, who had made several voyages round the world, and experienced a multiplicity of hardships, acknowledged at present, that all their former sufferings were not to be compared to those of the present voyage, and that they had never before so thoroughly loathed a salt diet. Captain Cook had made a provision of dried hams for the voyage, which by length of time were much corrupted; all the fat being converted into a rancid oil, and the salt having filled the flesh with a quantity of alkaline concretions like tartar. However, as often as this putrid and loathsome meat was carried to table, which happened once a week, the petty officers devoured it with wistful looks, and spoke of our good fortune so feelingly, that it would have given pain to a savage. It was owing to our having such an excellent preservative as sour-krout on board, that the scurvy did not at this time make any considerable progress amongst us; but our situation was indeed wretched enough, without the additional horrors of disease.

We were becalmed in the evening among the reefs, which surrounded us on all sides, and made our situation dangerous, on account of the tides and currents, as well as for want of anchoring-ground, having sounded in vain with a line of 150 fathoms. At half past seven o'clock we saw a ball of fire to the northward, in size and splendor resembling the sun, though somewhat paler. It burst a few moments after, and left behind it several bright sparks, of which the largest, of an oblong shape, moved quickly out of our horizon, whilst a kind of bluish flame followed, and marked its course. Some heard a hissing noise, which accompanied the swift descent of this meteor. Our shipmates expected a fresh gale after its appearance, having frequently observed the same to ensue upon similar occasions. And in fact, whatever may be the relation between this phӕnomenon, and the motion of the atmosphere, or whether it was accident, their predictions were verified the same night. A brisk gale sprung up, which settled at south, [1774. October.][Saturday 1.]the next morning, and permitted us to direct our course E. by S. and S. S. E. from New Caledonia. This island, the largest hitherto discovered in the South Seas between the tropics, remains entirely unexplored on its south side. The direction and outline of its northern coast, was sketched out during the short time which we could afford to spend on this valuable discovery; but its animals, vegetables, and minerals still remain untouched, and offer an ample field to the naturalist. The appearance of cypress-trees on the eastern part, seems to prove that the nature of the soil, and the mineral productions are totally different in that part, from those of Balladd, of which we had a cursory view; and from what we saw on the little sandy Botany Island, a distinct set of plants must there cover the ground, and various unknown birds inhabit the woods. Thus it still remains for future navigators, to continue our discoveries in the South Seas, and to take more time in investigating their productions. Several parts of the Pacific Ocean are still untouched by former tracks; for instance, the space between 10° S. and the line, across the whole ocean, from America to New Britain; the space between 10° S. and 14° S.35 included between the meridian of 140° and 160° W. the space included between the parallels of 30° and 20° S. and the meridian of 140° and 175° west; the space between the southernmost of the Friendly Islands, and New Caledonia, and that between New Caledonia and New Holland. M. de Surville's track, which I have mentioned vol. I. p. 238, is the only one which lies between these two countries. But New Guinea, New Britain and all the lands in that neighbourhood, obviously require to be more minutely examined, and would doubtless reward the navigator by a world of new and important discoveries. All these districts of the South Sea being searched, the northern part of the same sea will require several voyages before it can be thoroughly explored.

[Sunday 2.]It fell calm again on the 2d in the forenoon, and several sharks appearing about the ship, one of them was caught, and divided instantly among the whole ship's company. We had our share of it, which the keen sauce of hunger made very delicious to our palate, though it was in fact very oily. We soon recovered a westerly breeze, which permitted us to go to the S. S. E. after crossing the tropic of capricorn.

[Wednesday 5.]On the fifth in the afternoon, we had sight of two albatrosses again, being between the 26th and 27th degree of south latitude. The calm which happened the day after, permitted our officers to go out in a boat, in order to shoot some birds; but after toiling the whole day, they brought on board only four, of which two were petrels, and two albatrosses. We were now once more on the confines of the easterly trade-wind, which so near the solstice became variable as soon as we had passed the tropic. On the 7th in the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze with which we sailed between the south and west; captain Cook being desirous to fall in with the west coast of New Zeeland in order to escape the same difficulties which we had experienced the year before in going into Cook's Strait. In the evening of the 8th, a numerous shoal of large porpesses passed the ship, and played about it, leaping frequently out of the water. One of them was struck with an harpoon, and by giving it a great deal of line, we had time to hoist a boat out, and to kill it with five musket shot. It was of that species which the ancients called the dolphin [257] D e l j i z, Aristot. Delphinus delphis, Linn. , and which, with the common porpess, is found in every sea. It was six feet long, and its dugs were full of milk, it being a viviparous animal of the class which suckle their own young. It was cut up the next morning, and the meat distributed to the ship's company; its colour was not very inviting, being almost black; but its taste after cutting away all the fat, was very like beef, only somewhat dry. We dined on it very heartily, and were very well contented with our good fortune. We saw land the same morning, which proved to be a small island, of moderate elevation, wholly covered with cypress-trees, resembling those we had found on Botany Island. We had soundings at a good distance, in twenty fathom more or less, and about nine o'clock were abreast of it. It seemed to be about two or three miles long, was very steep, almost entirely covered with woods, and to appearance uninhabited. Many aquatic fowls of different species were observed about it, which gave us hopes of making at least a provision of another fresh meal. We hastened to finish our dinner, and went on shore with captain Cook in two boats. Several large broken rocks project into the sea from the island, on all sides. We were fortunate enough to find a little cove so well sheltered by some of these rocks, that our boats lay very safe in it, and were able to land without wetting a foot. A heap of large stones formed a kind of beach, beyond which the shore rose very steep, and in some parts perpendicular. We found a little rill which descended in a cleft between two hills; and following the course of it, we penetrated into the woods with great difficulty, through a thick tissue of bindweeds and climbers. However, as soon as we had passed through this outward fence, we found the forest tolerably clear of underwood, and had not the least difficulty to walk forwards. The rocks of this island consisted of the common yellowish clayey stone, which we had found at New Zeeland; and in some places we met with small bits of porous reddish lava, which seemed to be decaying, but made us suspect this island to have had a volcano. The vegetables which we found upon it, throve with great luxuriance in a rich stratum of black mould, accumulated during ages past, from decaying trees and plants. The greatest number of species which we met with were well known to us, as belonging to the flora of New Zeeland, but they appeared here with all the advantages which a milder climate, and an exuberant soil could give them. The New Zeeland flag ( phormium tenax), shot stalks eight or nine feet high, having flowers much larger and brighter than we had seen at Queen Charlotte's Sound. The productions of New Zeeland were here united to those of New Caledonia, and the New Hebrides; for the cypress of the one, and the cabbage palm which we had seen in the latter, flourished here in the greatest perfection. It was chiefly on these two species, that we bestowed our attention; the former supplied the carpenter with several spare booms, and pieces of timber; and the latter offered us a most welcome and palatable refreshment. We cut down several of them, and took on board the central shoot, or heart, which in taste more resembles an almond than a cabbage. The animal creation, like the vegetable, consisted chiefly of the same species which we found at New Zeeland. The parrots and parroquets were infinitely brighter coloured, though evidently of the same species; but the pigeon was exactly the same. We found besides these, a number of small birds, peculiar to this spot, some of which were very beautiful. On the beach we found several succulent plants, such as a species of tetragonia, and a mesembryanthemum, of which we gathered a quantity to boil in our soups. The melody of the birds was very pleasing in this little deserted spot, which if it had been of a greater size, would have been unexceptionable for an European settlement. We put off from it late in the evening, and when we arrived on board, we greatly regretted that we had not thought of leaving a hog of each sex, which would doubtless have propagated undisturbed, and in the space of a few years stocked the island, so as to become useful to future navigators. Captain Cook gave this pretty little spot, the name of Norfolk Island; it is situated in 29° 2' 30" S. and 168° 16' E. Whilst we had examined the woods, some of the boats' crew had been no less busy in catching fish, having been fortunate enough to meet with a pool, where they had come in at high water. The tops of the cabbage-palm, these fish, and the birds which we had shot, afforded us an excellent refreshment for a day or two. We passed the S. E. end of the island the next morning, and saw a large single rock off that end. We sounded repeatedly all the forenoon, and found bottom at thirty and forty fathom, to the distance of eight leagues and upwards from the island. The vast number of boobies, and shear-waters, which were continually catching fish about us, by darting down into the sea, indicated that this was a kind of fishing-bank. At one o'clock in the afternoon, we were out of soundings, and advanced with a fresh breeze towards New Zeeland, where we could expect to meet with regular refreshments after our tropical cruize, which towards the latter end had greatly weakened the crew, by confining them to a putrid salt-diet, and which had proved particularly fatal to the officers and ourselves, by means of the poisonous fishes that unfortunately fell in our way.

[Monday 17.]We made such speed, attended by flocks of pintadas, petrels, and albatrosses, that we made the coast of New Zeeland on the 17th, early in the morning, after having heavy dews for two nights before, which are commonly reckoned signs of land. The part of New Zeeland which we now fell in with, was Mount Egmont, that prodigious peak which forms the north point of Cook's Strait coming from the west. It appeared to be covered with snow and ice nearly from the middle to the summit, of which we had only a glimpse now and then, when the clouds broke which involved it. Its appearance is remarkably majestic, and the neighbouring hills look like dwarfs in comparison. It stands upon, or rather its base gradually flattens into an extensive plain on all sides; and its summit, tapering gradually, terminates in a small point. Its height is supposed to be not much inferior to the peak of Teneriff, from the space which the snow occupies on it.36

The breeze, which had hitherto been moderate, now changed into a hard gale, which carried us forward at the rate of eight knots an hour; and we felt the air very sharp and uncomfortable, the thermometer standing at 58°. We now esteemed ourselves happy to be on the west coast of New Zeeland, where this gale was favourable, which on the east side would have been furiously against us. [Tuesday 18.]The next morning it hurried us past Cape Stephens, Admiralty Bay, and Point Jackson. As soon as we entered Queen Charlotte's Sound, it only blew in intermittent gusts, with the help of which we came safely to an anchor, the third time during this voyage, in Ship Cove, which we had left near eleven months before. The sight of each well-known object, however bleak and savage its appearance, conveyed a pleasing sensation, and the hope of recruiting our wasted spirits and strength, inspired unusual chearfulness.

;

CHAP. IV.

Third and last stay at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zeeland.

[1774. October.][Tuesday 18.]REPEATED showers, and chilling squalls of wind, gave us a rough reception on the wild shores of New Zeeland. The season was not yet far advanced in this raw climate, and the withered foliage of the last year, had not made room on many trees for the verdure of spring. After dinner, we went on shore to examine the beach where we had twice before fixed our tents during this voyage, being desirous of seeing what was become of the bottle which contained a letter to captain Furneaux. Before we landed we took notice of a small flock of shags, which had built their nests on some trees hanging over the water; a sign that the cove had not lately been visited by men. Indeed we have reason to suppose that the natives dwell in the interior recesses of the bay during winter, those parts being probably resorted to by the fish at that inhospitable season. After dislodging the shags, and killing some of their young, which, though fledged, were yet too stupid to fly away, we landed, and were presently convinced that an European ship had visited this place after our departure in November last. Many trees which we had left standing were cut down with saws and other tools unknown to the natives; the bottle was removed, and other indubitable vestiges of the new visitation remained. The plantations which we had formerly made were almost entirely destroyed, being partly rooted out, and partly stifled by the indigenous weeds, which grew luxuriantly in the soil after it had been turned up. Our sailors dragged a net several times, but to no purpose; however, we were somewhat more successful after our return to the ship, where several fish were caught with the hook and line. Amongst others, a fine sea-bream ( sparus pagrus), weighing eleven pounds, was taken, it being one of those species which are to be met with in almost every ocean [258] It is caught on the coasts of England, in the Mediterranean, at the Cape of Good Hope, and in the South Seas. . About sunset a cannon was fired, with a view to apprize the natives of our arrival, if any of them happened to be within hearing. It was our interest to have them near us, in order to supply us with fish, which our sailors were not expert enough to catch in any quantity, supposing we could have dispensed with their labours in repairing the rigging, &c.

[Wednesd. 19.]At day-break all our people began to warp the ship deeper into the cove, and about nine o'clock they had brought her into a convenient situation very near the shore. We profited by an interval of fair weather, in order to visit the beach, where we once more pitched our tents. The last year's generation of birds, unacquainted with the treacherous arms of Europeans, sat patiently till we came near enough not to run the risk of missing them; and thus we not only recruited our collection, but likewise provided a delicious refreshment. The creepers in particular, and several smaller species, were to the full as grateful to the palate as ortolans; and every land-bird of this part of New Zeeland, hawks excepted, would have been relished at the most luxurious tables.

In the afternoon we accompanied captain Cook to Canibal Cove, the next to the northward of our anchoring-place. The shores of this cove we knew to be rich in celery and scurvy-grass, which it was the captain's constant care to provide for his crew, wherever they were to be had. In our rambles through the woods at this place we found a true cabbage-palm ( areca oleracea), of the same sort which we had seen at Norfolk Island. Its situation in this high latitude was somewhat surprising, and seems to prove that this species is of a more hardy nature than the rest in the same class. We returned on board with a rich load of greens, very acceptable to all our shipmates, but eyed with peculiar pleasure by all those who had been poisoned, and who hoped, by the use of this wholesome diet, to be restored to health and strength, which they had never enjoyed since that unfortunate event. Another cannon was fired in the evening, as no natives had hitherto made their appearance.

The next day we experienced dreadful gales, which coming over the bleak and snow-capt alps to the south of us, chilled the air most uncomfortably, and at last brought on heavy rains. The wind abated the day following, but showers and thick fogs continued till the evening. A N. W. wind then springing up, chased the clouds from the mountains, &c. [Saturday 22.]The sun arose in all his splendor the next morning; the choir of feathered songsters was heard on all sides for the first time since our arrival, announcing a mild vernal day, and summoned us into the woods. Many of our officers immediately embraced this opportunity of recreation, and we accompanied captain Cook in a boat, coasting the shores towards Point Jackson, and landing from time to time in the different coves on our way. The afternoon was spent in an excursion to the Hippah-rock, on which we made a fire to allure the natives, being very desirous of their company. We likewise visited the cabbage-garden on Motu-Aro, and found the plants shot into seed, which had been for the greatest part consumed by the birds. In the evening all the sportsmen returned loaded with birds; the different boats' crews had collected fresh supplies of greens, and the rest had caught fish during the fair weather. All these successes contributed to make a kind of general festival in the ship, which the levity of the mariners rendered the more chearful, as every past discomfort was already forgotten.

Having waited in vain another day for the appearance of the natives, we resolved to go in quest of them into the southern creeks on the 24th. [Monday 24.]That morning, however, at day-break, two canoes appeared off the point of Shag Cove with their sails set; but they were no sooner in sight of the ship, than the sail was instantly let down, and the people betook themselves to paddling very fast back again. Their reserve only made us more desirous to have some intercourse with them, as it appeared to be a mark of fear or distrust. Captain Cook set out in his boat with us, and we came into Shag Cove, where we passed some time shooting shags and sea-pies, of which we found great numbers. At last, however, we heard some shouts on the south shore of the cove, and coming towards that part, discerned several natives who had retired to the upper part of the hills, whilst only three or four remained below on a rising, where several huts were concealed in the woods. Here we found their canoes hauled on the beach, and immediately landing, made signs for these people to come to us. They hesitated a little; then one descended, and having joined noses with us, the usual sign of friendship, the rest came down, and those who had ascended the higher parts likewise joined us. They were all dressed in shaggy cloaks, which were old and ragged; their hair hung about their heads in disorder, and filth and stench announced them even at a distance. We did not remember to have seen above three or four of them at our former stay in this sound; but having learnt their names, enquired concerning many of their countrymen who were better known to us. They gave us an answer which was infinitely too complex to be intelligible to us; but we could collect that they spoke of a battle, and mentioned the death of several of the natives. They continued from time to time to ask if we were displeased with them, and seemed to be very apprehensive that our present protestations of friendship were not quite sincere. We suspected from this circumstance, that a fatal misunderstanding had happened between the natives and the crew of some European ship, and we naturally thought of our consort the Adventure. However, far from confirming the natives in their fears, we endeavoured by every method to gain their confidence, in which we succeeded very well, by waving the subject of our discourse, and asking if they had any fish to sell. They ran to their canoes immediately, and clearing away the mats with which they were covered, produced a vast quantity of fish, probably caught the same morning. For a few pieces of Taheitian cloth,2 a nail, some medals, and a bit of red baize, we bought a sufficient quantity to supply our whole ship's company, and so far gained the confidence of the natives, that they promised to come to the ship the next day. One of them, of a middle age, who seemed to be the principal man in this small village, told us his name was Peeterrè, and shewed himself the friendliest of them all. We parted from them, after admiring their bold spirit, which disdained concealment, at the moment when they were filled with apprehensions that we should take advantage of our superiority of numbers. We were indeed ignorant at that time how much reason they had to dread our resentment, a circumstance which gives still greater lustre to their bravery.

[Tuesday 25.]They were indeed as good as their word, and came to us at sun-rise the next morning, in five canoes, selling a great quantity of fine fish, and thus restoring affluence on our tables. Having parted with their fish, they produced a number of pieces of green nephritic stone, wrought into chissels and various ornaments, which they eagerly exchanged for Taheitian and English cloth, as well as iron ware. Not content with what they could collect on board, some of them went to the beach, where a number of our people were employed in watering, wooding, &c. and where Mr. Wales had once more fixed his observatory. Here they made many acquisitions, and then all went to pass the night on a neighbouring beach. They rose at day-break, and caught abundance of fish, with which they returned to us, continuing to supply us every day in the same manner. Their favourite place of resort was, however, our watering-place; for there they met with several marines, who took a pleasure in conversing with them, as well as they could, for hours together. It appears this kind of familiar intercourse suited their disposition, for they soon became so intimate as to impart to their new friends a tale, of which the particulars were of the utmost importance to us. They related, that an European vessel had put into the harbour some time ago; but that in a quarrel with the inhabitants, all her people had been killed and eaten. This intelligence alarmed us greatly, as we apprehended that this vessel was most probably the Adventure. The natives were repeatedly questioned, and in every conversation we discovered some additional circumstances, by which the fact was more clearly established. At last, however, observing that our enquiries on this subject were frequently repeated, they resolved to give us no farther information, and by threats stopped short one of their own brethren, who had been prevailed upon to speak once more on the subject. Captain Cook being very desirous of obtaining some certainty concerning the fate of the Adventure, called Peeterrè and another native into the cabin, both of whom denied that any harm had been done to the Europeans. We made two pieces of paper, to represent the two ships, and drew the figure of the Sound on a larger piece; then drawing the two ships into the Sound, and out of it again, as often as they had touched at and left it, including our last departure, we stopped a while, and at last proceeded to bring our ship in again: but the natives interrupted us, and taking up the paper which represented the Adventure, they brought it into the harbour, and drew it out again, counting on their fingers how many moons she had been gone. This circumstance gave us two-fold pleasure, since at the same time that we were persuaded our consort had safely sailed from hence, we had room to admire the sagacity of the natives. Still, however, there was something mysterious in the former accounts, which intimated that some Europeans were killed; and we continued to doubt whether we had rightly understood this part of their conversation, till we received more certain intelligence at our return to the Cape of Good Hope. Here we learnt that our consort had lost a boat with ten men at New Zeeland. Some account of this melancholy event will, I hope, not be unwelcome to my readers, as I shall occasionally compare the story of the natives with the reports of our fellow-voyagers. It appears that captain Furneaux, after separating from us, was obliged, on the 9th of November 1773, to put into Tolaga Bay [259] See the chart of New Zeeland, in Hawkesworth, vol. II. , on the northern isle of New Zeeland, where he lay till the 16th. He then sailed towards Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he arrived on the 30th, a few days after our departure. O-Maï, the native of Raietea, whom he had on board, told me he was the first who found the inscription on the tree, under which our bottle was buried. He pointed it out to the captain, and the bottle with the letter was immediately found. In consequence of this, captain Furneaux made all the necessary preparations for the remaining part of his voyage, in as little time as possible. His ship the Adventure was ready to sail, when he sent a boat to Grass Cove, on the eastern shore of the Sound, in order to gather a load of celery and scurvy-grass for the crew. Mr. Rowe, the unfortunate youth who had the command of this boat, combined with many liberal sentiments the prejudices of a naval education, which induced him to look upon all the natives of the South Sea with contempt, and to assume that kind of right over them, with which the Spaniards, in more barbarous ages, disposed of the lives of the American Indians. After landing in Grass Cove, his people began to cut greens, and some in all probability stripped off their cloaths, to perform their task with greater ease; for the accounts which we obtained from the natives at Queen Charlotte's Sound import, that one of their countrymen stole a sailor's jacket; that our people had hereupon immediately begun to fire, and continued to do so till all their ammunition was spent; that the natives had taken this opportunity to rush upon the Europeans, and had killed every one of them. This relation is very reconcileable with the opinion which the late Mr. Rowe always entertained of the New Zeelanders, viz. that they would never stand the fire of European musketry. He had before, when at Tolaga Bay, been exceeding desirous of firing upon them, for having stolen a small keg of brandy from the boat's crew; but the judicious and humane advice of lieutenant Burney checked his impetuosity. Captain Furneaux finding that his boat did not return the next day, sent Mr. Burney in another boat, well armed, to look after the former. They soon reached the entrance of East Bay, where they observed a canoe containing many natives, who at sight of them paddled away as fast as possible. Our people made after them, but the fear of being taken made the natives jump overboard, and swim to the shore. This behaviour alarmed Mr. Burney, and his apprehensions were but too fully verified when he came up with the canoe. Here they found several mangled limbs of their comrades, and some of their cloaths. After rowing about some time, they came to Grass Cove, towards seven in the evening, where they saw a considerable number of the natives assembled, who seemed prepared to oppose them. The whole hill to the top was covered with crouds of people, as in a fair, and smokes ascended in several places, where they were probably dressing human flesh. Horror chilled the sailors blood in their veins, but the next moment they glowed with the fierce ardour of revenge, and cooler reason was obliged to give way to the powerful impulse. They fired and killed several of the natives, driving them at last, but with great difficulty, from the beach, and destroying a great number of canoes, which they found hauled on shore. They then landed, and searched the huts, where they found many other limbs of their friends packed into baskets, and particularly a hand, which they knew to be that of the unfortunate Mr. Rowe. Mr. Burney is of opinion, that the boat had been beaten to pieces by the natives, for the sake of the iron, as he only met with some detached parts of it. It is not unlikely that the unhappy people who were thus cut off, did not take sufficient care to keep their boat afloat, but suffered the tide to leave it dry upon the rocks, by which means they made their retreat impracticable afterwards. Captain Furneaux having suffered this heavy loss, more heavy to him, as Mr. Rowe was his relation, set sail from Queen Charlotte Sound on the 22d of December, and passed round Cape Horn, touching at no port, nor seeing any land, till he arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 19th of March 1774; from whence he returned to England, anchoring at Spithead on the 15th of July following, at the time when we were near the New Hebrides in the South Sea.

The New Zeelanders have been dangerous enemies to all the nations who have visited them. The first discoverer, Abel Jansan Tasman, a Dutch navigator, lost four of his people, in an anchoring place, which he named Murderers Bay, and which seems to be the same with captain Cook's Blind Bay. The natives took one of the dead bodies into the canoe with them, and had therefore doubtless tasted the flesh of an European, so early as the year 1642 [260] See M. Dalrymple's Collection, vol. II. p. 72. . By killing ten persons of the Adventure's crew, they have been still more pernicious to the English, and by murdering M. Dufresne Marion, with twenty-eight men, they have treated the French more roughly than all the rest. M. Crozet, captain of a fire-ship, in the French navy, happening to be at the Cape of Good Hope, on his way to India, at the time of our return to that settlement, gave us an account of the melancholy fate of his countrymen. He commanded the king's sloop of Mascarin, under M. Marion, and put into the Bay of Islands, on the northern island of New Zeeland [261] See vol. I. p. 112, where I have mentioned the discoveries of that voyage, previous to M. Marion's arrival at New Zeeland. in great distress. He was obliged, having lost his masts, to look out for new ones in the woods of this country; but when he had found trees fit for his purpose, it appeared almost impossible to bring them from the hills to the water side. However, necessity at last obliged them to make a road two or three miles long, through the thickest forests, to the place where he met with the best trees. A party of his people were in the mean while placed on an island in the bay, to fill the casks with water, and another party occasionally went on shore to cut wood for the ship's use. They had lain here thirty-three5 days, upon the best terms with the natives, who freely offered their women to the sailors, when M. Marion went on shore with several people, to visit the different parties who were at work, without leaving word that he intended to come back to the ship the same day. His first visit to the waterers being performed, he went to the Hippah, or fortification of the natives, where he commonly used to call in his way to the carpenters, who were encamped in the woods with M. Crozet. Here however, it seems he was cut off, with his company, and boat's crew. The next morning, the lieutenant, who commanded on board, not knowing what had happened, sent a party to cut wood within the neck of land, which may be seen in captain Cook's draught of this bay [262] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 323. . A party of the natives waited the opportunity when every one was at work to fall upon the French, and killed them all, except a single sailor who ran over the isthmus, and threw himself into the sea, in order to swim towards the ships, though he was wounded by several spears. He called out at last, and being taken on board, gave the general alarm. M. Crozet's situation in the woods with a small party, was the most critical. A corporal and four marines were immediately dispatched, to acquaint him of his danger, while several boats attended to receive his party, at a place where the sick had been lodged in tents for the recovery of their health. He disposed every thing as well as the time would permit, and effected his retreat to the sea-side. Here however, he found a prodigious croud of the natives assembled, drest out in their best habits, with several chiefs at their head. M. Crozet, told the four marines, to be ready in case he found it necessary, to fire at such persons as he should point out. He gave orders to his party to strike the tents of the sick, to embark all their tools and apparatus, and to retire into the boat, whilst he with the soldiers walked up to the chief. This man immediately told him, that M. Marion was killed by another chief whom he named. M. Crozet took up a stake, and forcing it into the ground, just before the feet of the chief, bid him advance no further. The violence of the action startled the savage, whose irresolution M. Crozet observing, insisted on his commanding the croud to sit down, which was accordingly complied with. He now walked up and down before the New Zeelanders, till all his men were in the boat; his soldiers were ordered to follow, and himself was the last who embarked. He had scarce put off, when the whole body of New Zeelanders rose, began their song of defiance, and threw stones after him; however, by the timely exertion of his people, they all came safe on board. The New Zeelanders from this time forward, made several attempts to cut him off. They made an expedition against the watering-party at night, which, but for the vigilance of the French, would have been fatal to them; and they likewise attacked the ships in more than a hundred large canoes full of men, who felt the effects of European artillery. At last M. Crozet, seeing it impossible to supply the ships with masts, unless he could drive the natives from this neighbourhood, went to attack their hippah, which was one of the greatest and strongest. He put the carpenters in the front, to cut down the pallisadoes, behind which the natives stood in great numbers on the fighting stages, described in captain Cook's former voyage [263] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 342, 344. . His people drove the natives from these stages by keeping up a regular fire, which did some execution. The carpenters could now approach without danger, and in a few moments cut a breach in the fortification. A chief instantly stepped into it with a long spear in his hand. He was shot dead by M. Crozet's marksmen, and presently another occupied his place, stepping on the dead body. He likewise fell a victim to his intrepid courage, and in the same manner eight chiefs successively defended, and bravely fell on this post of honour. The rest seeing their leaders dead, took flight, and the French pursued and killed numbers of them. M. Crozet offered fifty dollars to any person who should take a New Zeelander alive, but this was absolutely impracticable. A soldier seized an old man, and began to drag him towards his captain, but the savage being unarmed, bit into the fleshy part of the Frenchman's hand, of which the exquisite pain so enraged him, that he ran the New Zeelander through with the bayonet. M. Crozet found great quantities of dresses, arms, tools, and raw flax in this hippah, together with a prodigious store of dried fish, and roots, which seemed to be intended for winter provision. He completed the repairs in his ship without interruption, after accomplishing this enterprize, and prosecuted his voyage after a stay of sixty-four days in the Bay of Islands.

The character of the New Zeelanders would appear to no great advantage in this transaction with the French, if we supposed that nothing passed previous to the massacre to rouze their indignation. But the whole tenour of their behaviour to Europeans, seems to acquit them of treachery and cruel malevolence. It is therefore greatly to be suspected that they took umbrage at some affront, perhaps unwittingly committed by the strangers, and revenged it with that passionate fury which hurries on the savage into excesses. We had no reason to doubt the veracity of the people at Queen Charlotte's Sound, since they accused their own countrymen of theft; but it plainly appears from these instances, that the rash action of revenging this theft with death, and most probably revenging it indiscriminately on a whole body of natives, must have provoked them to retaliate. Born to live our stated time on this globe, every one who puts a premature period to our existence here, offends the laws of the Creator. The passions are wisely implanted in our breast for our preservation; and revenge, in particular, guards us against the encroachments of others. Savages do not give up the right of retaliating injuries; but civilized societies confer on certain individuals the power and the duty to revenge their wrongs. Still, even in the most polished countries of Europe, this method of administring justice is not sufficient in all cases. Such is the imperfection of human institutions, that the public avenger of wrongs oft lifts his hand against the sacred rights of the whole community. On that occasion all civil agreements are dissolved, every man assumes his rights, and give free course to the passions. Even in private life there are occasions where this sacred principle of revenge is of infinite service in the best regulated community. Nothing is more common than oppressions, affronts, and injuries against which the law provides no remedy; nothing more frequent, than that a set men are powerful enough to wrest the laws to the disadvantage of the wretched and friendless. These instances would be still more numerous, and be carried to the most detestable pitch of tyranny, if this dread did not with-hold them, that the injured party may resume that power of redressing his wrongs, which he sees so inadequately exercised by his representative. He that attempts another's property, runs the risk of being killed without a trial by the person whom he robs; and the fear of the sword or the cane, hath often kept villains within bounds, who are invulnerable to the attacks of the law.

Chi fà sua vendetta, oltra che offende

Chi l'offeso ha, da molti si difende.

Ariosto.

Being satisfied that the Adventure had safely sailed from Queen Charlotte's Sound, by the signs of Peeterrè,9 we took the opportunity of a fair day [Friday 28.]to visit the innermost recesses of West Bay, in order to be convinced, if possible, whether there was any probability that the hogs and fowls, brought thither almost a year before, would ever stock these wild woods with numerous breeds. We came to the spot where we had left them, but saw not the least vestiges of their having been on the beach, nor did it appear that any of the natives had visited this remote place; from whence we have some room to hope, that the animals had retreated into the thickest part of the woods. We afterwards found a few families of the natives in an opposite part of the bay, who furnished us with abundance of fish.

[1774. November.][Wednesday 2.]We went to Grass Cove on the 2d of November, having had rainy and stormy weather after our excursion to West Bay. Ignorant of the dreadful tragedy which had there been acted, we landed in all the creeks thereabouts, and advanced far into the country, seeing several paths which led up the hills, but meeting no inhabitants. We shot here about thirty birds, amongst which were a dozen pigeons, that frequented this spot on account of a species of sophora-tree, of which they consumed the leaves and seeds. We returned in the evening at eight o'clock, finding a number of natives on board, who had arrived from another part of the bay. These natives sold us no provisions like those who came with Peeterrè, but brought dresses, arms, and other curiosities; captain Cook therefore absolutely prohibited all commerce with them. They returned to us again the next morning, but the captain persisted in his resolution of not admitting them, unless they brought us refreshments. Indeed, this manner of proceeding was equally laudable and necessary; it required the utmost exertion of authority, as well as the enforcement of example, to make the stubborn sailor take the least step for the benefit of his own health, as soon as his attention was engaged by the manufactures of the natives. It is surprising to what a pitch the rage of collecting arms and utensils had risen among the crew. During our stay at Queen Charlotte's Sound, several of our people who were sent to make brooms, with the boatswain at their head, robbed the hut of a poor native of several tools, and forced upon him some nails, which they thought an equivalent. Fortunately, the natives found means to complain to captain Cook, and the offenders were justly punished. The crew of the Endeavour were not a whit more equitable or honest; they robbed the wife of Tuboraï Tamaide at Taheitee and seemed at New Zeeland [264] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 103, and 136. We may likewise consult vol. III. p. 659, where an instance of barbarity is recorded, similar to that mentioned in this work, vol. I. p. 282. to think they had a right to the property of the natives.10 Indeed their character is very uniform, and cannot well be otherwise from their manner of life; and it may be observed, that their own commanders complain of the same inhuman propensity to destroy the poor harmless people of the South Seas, which I have so frequently observed in the course of this voyage [265] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 365.11 .

The embargo which was laid on the trade was the reason that all the natives left us on the 4th, except a single wretched family, who had not been able to catch fish during the two last days, on account of the stormy weather. We found them at the Indian Cove feeding on insipid fern-roots, for want of more nutritive food. Each of their huts contained a fire, of which the smoke entirely involved them; however, by lying down close to the ground, they were less incommoded by the smoke than if they had sat upright. Notwithstanding the inconvenience of this situation, there were not wanting several of our shipmates who readily took up with the same lodging, in order to receive the caresses of the filthy female inhabitants. Perhaps it may be imagined that only brutish sailors could have such groveling appetites; but the imperious element, on which they are continually tossed about, seems to level all distinctions. Indeed, when people habitually give full course to their unbounded desires, it is not surprising that they gratify one sense at the expence of all the rest. The nations whom we had lately visited in the New Hebrides, and at New Caledonia, having very wisely declined every indecent familiarity with their guests, the most loathsome objects in a New Zeelander's smoky and nasty hovel, were eagerly addressed.

[Saturday 5.]The next day was very fair, after an interval of bad weather; captain Cook therefore chose to make an excursion, to trace the end of the sound, which still remained unknown We set out in a boat, and advanced a considerable way towards some canoes which were fishing. At sight of us the people in them left their employment, and paddled away; but as our crew rowed very briskly, we soon overtook them, and enquired if they knew a passage out to sea through the extremity of the Sound. They seemed not to understand our question, but offered us some fish, which they had just caught. We purchased a great quantity, and found the natives very friendly in their behaviour, they having been on board the ship a few days before. Receiving no intelligence from them, we rowed a great way higher, and passed an arm of the Sound to the left, and several bays and coves on the right hand. Here meeting with another canoe, which came up towards us, we asked the natives concerning the outlet into the sea. They pointed out the left or eastern arm, and told us that the other to the south at last ended in a bay, which was every where surrounded by mountains. Upon their report we steered into the eastern arm, and soon discovered a most spacious bay in it, to the right of which the shores were every where lined with natives. We landed at one of the most populous places, and saluted by the nose the chief and principal people, who stepped forward from the rest. The chief immediately acquainted us that his name was Tringo-Boohee [266] Tringho seems to be a kind of title among them, being affixed to several names of their chiefs. .12 He was a little elderly man, but very active, lively and friendly; his face was punctured all over in scrolls, by which he distinguished himself from every one of his countrymen present, who were all much less disfigured by this operation. The women sat in several rows before their huts, and a few of them were known to us, having been on board the ship some days before. They all seemed to be much better situated than the scattered families in the neighbourhood of our cove; their garb was new and neat, and the features of some much less disgusting than we had generally seen. Perhaps this was owing to their faces being clean, without being covered with paint, soot, or other dirt. The number of men encreased about us every minute, as we traded eagerly for fish, which they were equally eager to sell. Our friend Tringho-Bohee, however, seemed to dislike the arrival of so many people, especially as the price of his fish fell, in proportion as the market was better supplied. A great number of them likewise brought their arms and clothes to sell, and most of them went naked, except a small piece of mat girt about the loins, this day being remarkably mild, and the place sheltered from all winds. After staying here about a quarter of an hour, captain Cook reimbarked with us, which was the more adviseable, as many of the natives who arrived last, brought their arms, and the whole croud now amounted to two hundred and upwards, a much greater number than we had suspected the sound to contain, or had ever seen assembled together. We had already put off, when a sailor acquainted the captain, that he had bought a bundle of fish from one of the natives, for which he had not paid him. Captain Cook took the last nail which was left, and calling to the native, threw it on the beach at his feet. The savage being offended, or thinking himself attacked, picked up a stone, and threw it into the boat with great force, but luckily without hitting any one of us. We now called to him again, and pointed to the nail which we had thrown towards him. As soon as he had seen, and picked it up, he laughed at his own petulance, and seemed highly pleased with our conduct towards him. This circumstance, with a little rashness on our part, might have become very fatal to us, or might at least have involved us in a dangerous quarrel. If we had resented the affront of being pelted with a stone, the whole body would have joined in the cause of their countryman, and we must have fallen an easy prey to their numbers, being at the distance of five or six leagues from the ship, without any hopes of assistance. It was fortunate that we were not acquainted at that time with the wretched fate of Mr. Rowe and his companions; else the unexpected meeting with such a body of natives, would greatly have alarmed us, especially as it appears probable from their situation, that they acted a principal part in his massacre. When we consider the numerous opportunities which we gave the natives to cut us off, by leaving our boats, walking up hills, landing in their populous settlements, going among them unarmed, and the like; it becomes every moment clearer to me, that their friendship is always to be trusted, unless it is infringed on our part, and that accordingly they did not cut off the Adventure's people without provocation. It must nevertheless be acknowledged, that we were peculiarly fortunate in our excursions, which Providence always guided in such a manner, that we did not fall unawares into the hands of any families of the natives, with whom we had not concluded a previous treaty of peace.

The people at this place agreed with those to whom we had spoken in the canoe, that the arm which we had entered communicated with the sea. We continued our route accordingly, and observed after some turnings, that the inlet ran to the northward, at the back of Grass Cove, and East Bay. We found in it many coves and beaches, with greens, and plenty of wild fowl; the water was perfectly smooth, and the mountains formed many romantic prospects, being clothed with fine forests. Having advanced about three leagues from Tringo-Boohee's settlement, which the natives call Ko-Haghee-nooee,13 we began to see many shags, with a double crest, a species which always builds in the vicinity of the sea. A few moments afterwards we also saw breakers at the farther end of the inlet, which fully confirmed the accounts of the natives. On the left, or at the back of Grass Cove, we saw a hippah, built on a high rock which stood in a manner insulated, on a fine spot of level land. The whole sort was surrounded with many tall poles, and appeared to be in very good order. Having left it at some distance, (for it lay in a kind of bay) we saw the outlet into Cook's Strait, and found it a very narrow passage; before it lay many dangerous and lofty rocks, upon which a dreadful surf broke continually. In the passage, or gap itself, we had thirteen fathom of water,14 and observed a strong tide running past. We had a fair view from hence of the northern island, and of the strait through which we were to pass into the South Sea for the last time. It was about four o'clock when we made this discovery, but having the wind against us, or at least very uncertain, we were obliged to return the same way we came, instead of going round cape Koamaroo, which would have saved us much time. As we knew of such a numerous tribe of natives living in this neighbourhood, we did not venture to stay a night on shore; but passing the Hippah, and Ko-Haghee-nooee, arrived safe on board about ten o'clock at night, having fasted the whole time, and being thoroughly fatigued with our long excursion. The new channel which we had now discovered, is indicated as a bay in captain Cook's map of the Straits, inserted in his former voyage, he being at that time unacquainted with its outlet into the sea.

[Sunday 6.]The weather was rather dull the next day; however, our friend Peeterrè returned with his family to visit us. Captain Cook took him into the cabin, and dressed him in a shirt, stockings, breeches, and coat, as a mark of friendship for his assiduity in supplying us with fish. Peeterrè seemed highly delighted with his new dress, and valued himself upon being in favour with us. As he was contented with these presents, he did not venture to beg for any others, but behaved with great moderation. He accompanied us to Long Island, where we passed some time in shooting, and then returned on board to dinner, of which Peeterrè partook with peculiar good manners, considering his education. It is scarce to be doubted, that he felt the superiority of our knowledge, of our arts, manufactures, and mode of living, in some degree, especially as he was always remarkably in good spirits when amongst us; but notwithstanding all this, he never once expressed a desire of going with us; and when we proposed it to him, he declined it, preferring the wretched precarious life of his countrymen, to all the advantages of which he saw us possessed. I have already mentioned in another place [267] See p. 53. , that this way of thinking is common to all savages; and I might have added, that it is not entirely obliterated among polished nations. The force of habit no where appears more strikingly than in such instances, where it seems alone to counterbalance the comforts of a civilized life.

Peeterrè returned on shore with his comrades in the evening, but came to sell us fish again the next day. We frequently heard him and the rest of the natives singing on shore, and were sometimes favoured with a song when they visited us on board. Their music is far superior in variety to that of the Society and Friendly Islands; and if any nation of the South Sea comes in competition with them in this respect, I should apprehend it to be that of Tanna. The same intelligent friend15 who favoured me with a specimen of the songs at Tonga-Tabboo, (see vol. I. p. 429), has likewise obligingly communicated to me another of the New Zeeland music, which will be sufficient to give an idea of the taste of the people. He did not visit the island of Tanna, but assured me that there appeared to be some display of genius in the New Zeeland tunes, which soared very far above the wretched humming of the Taheitian, or even the four notes of the people at the Friendly Islands.

[Some music notes here]

Of this tune they continue to sing the two first bars till the words of their song are at an end, and then they close with the last. Sometimes they also sing an under-part, which is a third lower, except the two last notes, which are unisons.

[Some music notes here]

The same gentleman likewise took notice of a kind of dirge-like melancholy song, relating to the death of Tupaya. This song was chiefly practised by the inhabitants round Tolaga Bay, on the northern island, where the people seem to have had a high regard for that Taheitian. There is an extreme simplicity in the words, though they seem to be metrically arranged, in such a manner, as to express the feelings of the mourners, by their flow movement.

a#ghe#e, ma#tte( a(wha#y Tu#pa#ya(!16

Departed, dead, alas! Tupaya!

The first effusions of grief are not loquacious; the only idea to which we can give utterance is that of our loss, which takes the form of a complaint. Whether the simplicity of the tune is equally agreeable, or well judged, is a question which I cannot pretend to determine. The connoisseurs in music must acquit or condemn the New Zeelanders.

[Some music notes here]

A-ghee mat-te a-whay Tu-pa-ya.,

They descend at the close from c to the octave below in a fall, resembling the sliding of a finger along the finger-board on the violin. I shall now dismiss this subject with the following observation, that the taste for music of the New Zeelanders, and their superiority in this respect to other nations in the South Seas, are to me stronger proofs, in favour of their heart, than all the idle eloquence of philosophers in their cabinets can invalidate. They have violent passions; but it would be absurd to assert that these only lead them to inhuman excesses.

We continued to make several excursions along shore, and to the islands in the Sound, till the 9th of November. In this interval we made such additions to our botanical and zoological collections, as could hardly have been expected at so early a season, and after searching the same woods so many times. We collected ten or twelve species of plants, and four or five sorts of birds, which we had not seen before. Our crew assiduously filled all our water-casks, cut a great quantity of wood, repaired the rigging, and fitted the ship once more to encounter the fury of southern gales. The quantity of fish which the natives daily brought for sale, allowed us to salt so many as to fill several casks with them, which served as a sea-stock during our passage to Tierra del Fuego, kept extremely well, and were very palatable to most people. The latter part of our stay was likewise employed in laying in an ample provision of shags, cormorants, and such other birds as we could find, in order that we might prolong as much as possible the term of living on fresh food.

On the 9th, in the afternoon, we unmoored, and rode all night at a single anchor, which we weighed the next morning at four, thus leaving New Zeeland a third time in the course of one voyage. As often as we had visited this country, it had abundantly supplied us with refreshments, which were particularly efficacious in restoring our health, and banishing the symptoms of the scurvy. Not only well-tasted antiscorbutic plants, but likewise the fish, which are easily digested, seem to me to have been equally salutary restoratives. The keen air which is felt in New Zeeland, on the finest days, contributed not a little to brace our fibres, relaxed by a long cruize in warmer climates, and the strong exercise we took was doubtless beneficial in many respects. From hence it happened that we always left that country with new vigour. If we came in ever so pale and emaciated, the good cheer which we enjoyed during our stay, soon rekindled a glow of health on our cheeks, and we returned to the south, like our ship, to all outward appearance, as clean and sound as ever, though in reality somewhat impaired by the many hard rubs of the voyage. Perhaps it may be attributed in part to the healthiness of the air, the simplicity of food, and particularly its easy digestion and great abundance, that the natives have attained a tall stature, are muscular, well proportioned [268] Except their legs, which are ill-shaped, from their mode of sitting. , and well formed. It appears indeed from many circumstances, that fish are so innumerable on their coasts, as to supply them with constant food, in sufficient quantity throughout the year, especially as M. Crozet and ourselves observed that they had laid up a plentiful share of dried fish for the winter.

CHAP. V.

The course from New Zeeland to Tierra del Fuego.-Stay at Christmas Harbour.

Barbara prӕruptis inclusa est (insula) saxis:

Horrida, desertis undique vasta locis.

Umbrarum nullo ver est lӕtabile fœtu,

Nullaque in infausto nascitur herba solo.

Seneca.

[1774. November.][Thursday 10.]WE cleared Cook's Strait on the 10th in the afternoon, after passing within a few leagues of the new inlet, which we had discovered previous to our departure. We were becalmed all the next day in sight of the land, and did not obtain a breeze till towards evening. On the 12th in the morning we were out of sight of land, and steered away between the south and east, towards Tierra del Fuego. We entered upon this navigation with more chearfulness, than upon the last southern cruize. We were persuaded that no land lay in our way to retard our progress; the westerly winds, which prevail in these latitudes, were in our favour; and we knew that the hardships of the voyage were drawing to an end. Indeed we looked upon ourselves as already safe from perils, and the hope of revisiting Europe, after many hazardous tracks and narrow escapes, seemed to animate us with new Promethean fire. The run from New Zeeland to Tierra del Fuego surpassed our warmest expectations, and, considering the construction of our ship, which was always reckoned a dull sailor, was indeed one of the quickest passages which can be imagined, as we made one day with another upwards of forty leagues. We saw a whale on the 12th, about twelve yards long, with an oblong blunt head, on which were two longitudinal furrows, and as many upright ridges. It had small eyes, two semilunar apertures, from whence it occasionally spouted the water, and was mottled all over with white spots. It had two large fins behind the head, but none on the back. This extraordinary creature seems to have been intirely unknown before.

We had sprung a leak on going out of Queen Charlotte's Sound, which we discovered on the 14th; but it gave us very little uneasiness, as the water in the pump-well encreased only five inches in eight hours. The westerly winds blew with astonishing violence, and the breadth of the ocean being very considerable, the billows encreased to an immense size, and seemed to be sometimes several hundred yards long. The ship rolled very disagreeably when the wind was quite aft; and though it has been supposed that a ship's inclination in the greatest roll never exceeds twenty degrees, we have observed it inclined above thirty, and several times even to forty degrees.

During this run we saw birds of the albatross, petrel, and pinguin kinds, almost every day, and especially at equal distances from New Zeeland and America, which are about fifteen hundred leagues asunder. On the 27th of November we made a greater run than ever was made in our ship before, which consisted of 184 miles by the log.

[1774. December.]On the 2d of December, after a short calm, we had a fresh breeze, which continued to blow without intermission, but with different degrees of velocity, [Sunday 18.]till the 18th, when we made the land, a little after midnight, near Cape Deseado, on one of the westermost islands of Tierra del Fuego. The fish which we had salted at New Zeeland had lasted during the whole run, and we had found great benefit from living upon them preferably to salt beef and pork, which was now so universally loathed, that captain Cook himself declared he should probably never eat it again with any degree of satisfaction. The sour-krout had been constantly used in the mean while, and the wort had been taken as a preservative by many persons in the ship. The former was still as good as ever, but the malt was much damaged, and had lost part of its efficacy, by having been put up in green unseasoned casks. I drank plentifully of it, but was notwithstanding afflicted with considerable swellings in the legs, attended with pains, which returned from time to time.

The part of the world which was now in sight had a very unfavourable aspect. About three o'clock in the morning we ran along it, and found it for the greatest part hid in a thick haze. The parts near us seemed to be small islands, which though not very high, were however very black, and almost entirely barren. Beyond them we saw some broken high lands, which were covered with snow, almost to the water's edge. Great flocks of shags, shear-waters, skuas, and other water-fowl, in some measure made amends for the desolate appearance of the coast, as they gave us great hopes that we should meet with refreshments, if we could find a harbour. Few countries that we touched at are so wretchedly destitute, as not to have afforded us some supply of food, either animal or vegetable, by the assistance of which we made shift to keep ourselves free from a high degree of the scurvy and other distempers.

In the afternoon we passed the island, upon which Cape Noir is situated, mentioned by M. Frezier. The view which he gives of the land corresponded very well with what we saw; and to the N. E. there appeared to be a long inlet, which is doubtless the channel of St. Barbara. In the Spanish charts this extremity of Tierra del Fuego has long since been very accurately laid down as divided into many islands and channels, which have been explored, and each in particular named, by their early navigators. One of the best charts of this kind accompanies the Spanish translation of the anonymous account of Mr. Byron's Voyage round the World, by Dr. Casimir Gomez Ortega. Agreeably to their discoveries, we found many separate islands, from the place where we made the coast to Cape Noir, and should perhaps have seen many more, if the weather had not been very hazy.

We found the land to all appearance much more compact after passing Cape Noir; and [Monday 19.]the next morning in particular, the coast seemed to be entirely connected; the mountains rose to a much greater height, immediately from the sea-side, and were covered with snow in every part. The wind gradually lessened, and towards noon we were entirely becalmed, having the finest sun-shine, and mild weather. Many sorts of water-birds appeared about us from time to time, and several seals also sported in the water. In the afternoon about thirty grampusses were seen playing about us, chiefly swimming in couples. Another calm succeeded again [Tuesday 20.]the next day, though we had had an easterly wind during a part of the preceding afternoon. It was very amusing to us, to meet with mild weather in the neighbourhood of that tempestuous cape, of which the name alone has affrighted the mariners, ever since lord Anson's voyage. The destruction of vulgar prejudices is of so much service to science, and to mankind in general, that it cannot fail of giving pleasure, to every one sensible of its benefits. We had this day the thermometer at 48° which, considering the neighbourhood of the huge heaps of snow on shore, was very moderate. This part of the world has been called the Coast of Desolation by the navigators who first visited it, and seems fully to deserve the appellation. Here we discerned nothing but vast mountains, of which the spiry summits were every where covered with eternal snow. Along the sea, the nearest rocks were clear of snow, but black, and destitute of grasses or shrubbery. Some inlets appeared in different parts, where a few islands seemed to have a covering of green. We stood in to one of these in the evening, having then obtained an easterly breeze. A huge perpendicular wall of rock formed its western entrance, and captain Cook called it the York Minster, having discovered a strong resemblance between that Gothic building, and this dreary chaotic rock. It lies in 55° 30' S. and 70° 28' W. Along the coast we found regular soundings, but in the mouth of the inlet, we could not reach the bottom with one hundred and fifty fathom of line. This circumstance had already happened to us before at Dusky Bay (vol. I. p. 123); but as we saw a very spacious sound before us, we ventured to stand on, amidst different rude islands, on which the summits of hills were sometimes capt with snow. A boat was hoisted out, in which my father accompanied some of the lieutenants, who endeavoured to shoot birds, but brought only one on board. After being much retarded by calms, we arrived about nine o'clock in a small cove, indifferently sheltered either from wind or sea, but a welcome place of refuge on account of the approach of night. Here, then we dropped the anchor, which had been aweigh only forty-one days, during which we had crossed the South Sea in its full extent, from New Zeeland to Cape Deseado.

[Wednesd. 21.]The next morning captain Cook, accompanied by several officers, as well as my father, Dr. Sparrman, and myself, went in a boat in quest of a more safe and convenient anchorage. We only rowed round a single point of the island under which our ship lay, and immediately found a fine cove sheltered from all winds, and perfectly land-locked, with a little rill of water, and a shrubbery. The weather was mild considering the climate, and several birds were heard on the shore. We found many little clefts, which cannot properly be called vallies, where a few shrubs of different species, sprung up in a thin layer of swampy soil, being defended against the violence of storms, and exposed to the genial influence of reverberated sun-beams. The rock of which the whole island consisted, is a coarse granite, composed of feld-spath, quartz, and black mica or glimmer. This rock is in most places entirely naked, without the smallest vegetable particle; but wherever the rains, or melted snows have washed together some little rubbish, and other particles in decay, it is covered with a coating of minute plants, in growth like mosses, which forming a kind of turf, about an inch or more in thickness, very easily slip away under the foot, having no firm hold on the rock. In sheltered places a few other plants thrive among these mossy species, and these at last form a sufficient quantity of soil, for the nutriment of shrubs, especially in such spots as I have mentioned before. Among them we immediately found the species, the bark of which captain Winter discovered to be an excellent aromatic, known in the shops by the name of Winter's bark, but frequently, till of late, confounded with a very different plant, the canella alba, of Jamaica. This Winter's bark-tree grows on the shores of the straits of Magalhaens, and on the eastern parts of Tierra del Fuego, to a stately size; but in this barren part we never saw it under any other form than that of a shrub, about ten feet high, crooked and shapeless. Barren as these rocks appeared, yet almost every plant which we gathered on them was new to us, and some species were remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or their smell. A new species of geese, a sort of shags, the black oyster-catchers, or sea-pies, and several other birds dwelt along the shores, which were lined with immense floating beds of rockweeds. At our return, all our people began to remove the ship into her new situation, where she was moored in the afternoon. A few small fish, of a new species of cod, were caught among the weeds; but in general every attempt to supply the table by fishing proved unsuccessful.

Early the next morning, captain Cook set out to take bearings in the sound, and we took that opportunity of examining its natural productions. The sound is very spacious, and surrounded to the north and east by several ranges of high mountains, which seem covered with permanent snow and ice. In the bay itself are several islands of considerable elevation, though not equal to the height of the main land, of which only the highest have some snow on their very summits. That under which our ship lay at anchor, was free from snow, though it seemed to be at least two hundred yards perpendicular in height. Besides these high islands, we observed several, from ten to twenty yards high, which lay in the northern part of the sound, and appeared to be almost covered with verdure at a distance. We directed our course to one of these, about three miles off, of which the mosses and shrubs, upon nearer examination, seemed to have been burnt in several places. The rock was here a kind of yellowish slate, which lay in horizontal strata, covered with a much thicker stratum of soil, than we had seen on the other island. Among the plants which grew on it, we picked up some new ones, and on its shores met with a new sort of fly-catcher, which lived upon shell-fish and worms, and seemed for that purpose to be furnished with a much stronger bill, than the birds of that genus commonly have. Rowing round one end of this island, we observed a shrubbery, or little grove on a point of land, in the shade of which stood several empty huts. They resembled in shape that which is described and drawn in the Endeavour's voyage [269] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. , with this difference, that they were not covered with seals-skins, which are perhaps put on occasionally, and deemed too valuable to be left behind. They were only skeletons of huts, consisting of boughs of trees, which for the greatest part had fresh green foliage on them; a sign that the natives had but lately made them. On entering this sound, and taking notice of its dreary, desolate appearance, we had supposed that the natives of Tierra del Fuego, never touch upon this inhospitable part, but confine themselves to the neighbourhood of the Straits of Magalhaens, and to the eastern side of Tierra del Fuego; but it seems that human nature is capable of withstanding the greatest inclemencies of weather, and of supporting its existence alike in the burning sands of Africa, and in the frozen extremities of the globe. We landed on several other islands, from whence we had a most extensive view across the sound, which looked wild and horrid in its wintery dress. This was however, the first summer month of these regions; most of the plants we saw were in flower, and the birds were every where bringing up their young. From thence we may easily form an adequate idea of the torpid state of these regions, where the sun-beams cannot melt the snow, at a season when their influence is the strongest. The farther we advanced from the sea, the more snow appeared on the mountains. In some places we saw cascades, and streams gushing down over the snow, especially where the rays of the sun took effect by being frequently reflected. We found a most beautiful cove on this coast, which formed a circular bason, where the water was smooth and transparent as a mirror. All the lower parts were fringed with trees, which we had no where seen so tall in the neighbourhood, and many streams rushed down with great impetuosity between their roots, making a most convenient watering-place. A prodigious number of small birds sat on every branch, and twittered around us in the sun-shine. They were of many different species, but unacquainted with men, hopped so near us, that it was impossible to shoot them, especially as we had now no other than coarse shot left, and that in very small quantity. Abundance of mosses, ferns, and climbers grew up between the trees, and were no small impediment to us in walking. Various flowers enlivened these woods, and encreased our collection with new species. Here then there was the appearance of summer; but if we looked up to the monstrous cloud-capt mountains which formed almost perpendicular walls on all sides of the harbour, and beheld them covered with snow and ice, which had sometimes a blue, and sometimes a yellowish tinge, we thought ourselves transported to the Glaciers of Switzerland, where the seasons seem likewise to be lost, and confounded in each other. The height of these mountains was very considerable, though not equal to the Alps, and their summits were divided into many sharp and craggy points, between which the interval was filled with snow. We landed here, and walked along the shore to another port, formed by a number of low islands, which entirely sheltered it from all winds. Here we met with several species of wild ducks, and particularly one of the size of a goose, which ran along the surface of the sea with amazing velocity, beating the water with its wings and feet.

______fugit illa per undas

Ocyor et jaculo, et ventos ӕquante sagittâ. Virgil.

Indeed its motion was so quick, that we saw it was in vain to attempt to shoot at it; a more favourable opportunity was therefore eagerly wished for. In the sequel we really obtained several specimens of this curious bird, which resembled a duck, except in the size, and in the extreme shortness of its wings. It had a grey plumage, with a few white quill-feathers; a yellow bill and feet, and two large, naked, callous knobs of the same colour, upon the joint of each wing, at the alula. Our sailors called it a race-horse, from its vast swiftness; but in the Falkland Islands, the English have given it the name of loggerhead-duck [270] See the Philosophical Transactions, vol. LXVI. part i. . Besides this species, we found numbers of the great gull or skua, which had their nests among some dry grass on one of the islands. We were fortunate enough to meet with an island entirely covered with the shrubs of a species of arbutus, loaded with red fruit, of the size of small cherries, which were very well tasted, and combined an agreeable tartness with a sweet and a bitter flavour. The rocks of the same island, at the water's edge, were covered with large muscle-shells, of which we found the fish more delicious than oysters. On these two articles, with the help of a few biscuits, and a little piece of salt-beef, we dined luxuriously, amidst the dreary rocks of a country, which at first sight did not seem likely to furnish such an entertainment. To add to our good fortune, we met with several islands in our return, covered with excellent celery, which, though much smaller than that of New Zeeland, was much higher flavoured, its juices being probably more concentrated. We loaded our boat with it, and returned late on board, after being overtaken by several smart showers. On our return, we found that the neighbourhood of the ship was very sensibly warmer than the northern parts of the sound, where the air was refrigrated by the abundance of snow on the mountains. One of the lieutenants returned the same evening from an excursion to the north-westward, whither he had been sent by captain Cook to take the bearings of the land.

[Friday 23.]The next day was so fine and mild, that several gentlemen walked across the island under which the ship lay at anchor, and shot many little birds in their excursion. Mr. Hodges took a draught of the whole sound from the height, which has a most picturesque appearance in that point of view. It has been engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage; and the print is remarkable for the figure of a falcon in the fore-ground, which, from its supernatural size, seems to resemble the rukh, celebrated in the Arabian Tales, more than any bird of less fanciful dimensions. We met with a most beautiful species of hawk on Tierra del Fuego, about the size of the falcon-gentil, brown, with a black crest, and the neck and shoulders barred with a grey and chocolate colour; the figure above mentioned may perhaps be meant for this species.

We accompanied the captain this morning on an excursion round the island under which the ship lay at anchor, whilst he sent lieutenant Pickersgill to explore another part of the bay. The trouble of this day we thought well rewarded by a great number of shags which we shot among the rocks, where they had built their nests by thousands. The power of instinct had commonly impelled them to choose for this purpose such places where the rocks project over the sea, or where at least they rise perpendicular; that in case their young should happen to fall out, they might take no hurt by dropping only in the water. The slate of which the rock consisted in this part was not very hard; but it is nevertheless very surprising that these birds have found means to make holes in it, or even to enlarge its natural cavities so much, as to make room for their offspring in them. These shags always returned to their nests immediately after we had fired, and flew so heavily, that we found not much difficulty to shoot them on the wing. The French at the Falkland Isles have called these birds nigauds, or ninnies, on account of their seeming stupidity, which could hardly be taught to shun destruction [271] See Dom Pernetty's Voyage to the Malouines. . Besides these, we also brought on board three geese which we had shot on this excursion, and which were very remarkable, on account of the difference of colour between the male and female. The gander was somewhat less than a common tame goose, and perfectly white, except the feet, which were yellow, and the bill, which was black. The goose, on the contrary, was black, with white transverse bars, a grey head, some green, and some white quill-feathers. It should seem that nature hath very wisely ordered this disparity; for the female being obliged to lead the young brood, its graver colour does not so easily discover them to falcons and other birds of prey. I would only hint this as a supposition which requires farther confirmation; perhaps our understanding is much too short-sighted to assign, on such slight grounds, the true ways of Divine Providence in the wonderful works of the creation.

After we had returned on board, lieutenant Pickersgill arrived, who had met with a cove on the eastern shore of the sound, where a prodigious number of geese had taken up their residence. Captain Cook being desirous to procure some kind of refreshment for his people, and to enable them to spend their Christmas-day with chearfulness, proceeded towards that place the next morning, and sent Mr. Pickersgill thither in another boat by a different route. My father, Dr. Sparrman, myself, and one midshipman, accompanied the captain in the pinnace. We stood out to sea, along an island to the east of the ship, which lay between us and the Goose Cove. It happened very fortunately that we took this course, without which we should probably have made a very unsuccessful excursion. But along the whole southern extremity of the island, extending at least four or five miles, we saw prodigious numbers of geese, which suffered us to come close to them. We perceived that they were, for the greatest part, young birds of the last year's brood, which moulted their feathers in this place, and having lost their quill-feathers, could not fly to any great distance. If we had been apprised of this circumstance at first, we might have taken greater spoils than we did; however, after toiling till sunset, we had collected no less than sixty-three geese, which enabled us to give a fresh meal to every man on board. The sport of the day was extremely entertaining; for though the object of our mission was variety, yet our principles were not yet sufficiently sanctified, to refuse a good meal when it was offered [272] See Hawkesworth, vol. III. p. 502.5 . We found many deep caverns in the rock, which vaulted sometimes thirty yards over our heads; and the swell being rather moderate, we could often enter into these dark places with the boat, and were always amply rewarded for our trouble by meeting with a number of birds. Several of these caverns were forty or fifty yards in length, and the rocky walls, about their entrance, were commonly the abode of shags, to which we paid no attention at present. The slate of which many of these rocks consist had likewise huge chasms and crevices, which commonly proved fatal to the geese, as they could seldom fly over, but fell between them, and were taken up alive by our sailors, to whom this employment was an inexhaustible fund of diversion. It was late in the evening when we arrived on board, where we found lieutenant Pickersgill, who had discovered a small island in his way, almost entirely covered with the eggs of sea-swallows or terns. He brought away about three hundred of them, which were in general very fit to be eaten.

[Sunday 25.]During our absence some of the natives, in four small canoes, had visited the ship; they were described to us as wretched and poor, but inoffensive, and ready to part with their spears, seal-skins, and the like. We now regretted that we had lost the opportunity of seeing them, but fortunately they returned the next morning, though the weather was rainy. The four canoes in which they came were made of the bark of trees, which could hardly have grown in this sound, on account of their size. Several small sticks are the ribs which distend this bark, and another stick forms the gunwale, over which they have wrapped the extremity of the bark, and sewed it on. A few stones, with a small quantity of earth, are laid in the bottom of each canoe, and on this the natives keep a constant fire. Their paddles are small, and rudely formed, and they work very slowly with them. Each canoe contained from five to eight persons, including children, who, contrary to the custom of all the nations in the South Sea, were very silent in their approach to the ship, and when along side, hardly pronounced any other word than pesseray. Those whom M. de Bougainville saw in the Strait of Magelhaens, not far from hence, used the same word, from whence he gave them the general name of Pecherais. We beckoned to them to come into the ship, and some accepted the invitation, though without the least sign of being pleased, and seemingly without the smallest degree of curiosity. Their persons were short, not exceeding five feet six inches at most, their heads large, the face broad, the cheek-bones very prominent, and the nose very flat. They had little brown eyes, without life; their hair was black and lank, hanging about their heads in disorder, and besmeared with train-oil. On the chin they had a few straggling short hairs instead of a beard, and from their nose there was a constant discharge of mucus into their ugly open mouth. The whole assemblage of their features formed the most loathsome picture of misery and wretchedness to which human nature can possibly be reduced. Mr. Hodges made a most excellent drawing of one of the men, which is extremely characteristic, and the print which Mr. Basire has executed after it, for captain Cook's account of this voyage, is a proof of his consummate skill. The shoulders and chest were broad and bony, but the rest of the figure was so thin and shrivelled, that to have seen it separate, we could not have supposed it belonged to the same person. Their legs were lean and bowed, and their knees disproportionately large. They had no other clothing than a small piece of old seal-skin, which hung from their shoulders to the middle of the back, being fastened round the neck with a string. The rest of their body was perfectly naked, not the least regard being paid to what Europeans would term decency. Their natural colour appeared to be an olive-brown, with a kind of gloss, which has really some resemblance to that of copper; but many of them had disguised themselves with streaks of red paint, and sometimes, though seldom, with white; from whence it should seem evident, that the ideas of ornament are of a more ancient date with mankind, than those of shame and modesty. The women were nearly formed as the men, though somewhat less in stature; their features were not less uncouth and ugly, and their dress exactly the same. They had only added a small piece of seal-skin, not so large as the palm of the hand, which hung down before, fixed to a string, which was tied about the waist. Round their necks they wore leather strings, on which they had hung a number of shells; and on their heads they had a kind of bonnet, consisting of a few white quill feathers of geese, which they occasionally placed upright on the head, by that means giving them a resemblance to the French head-dresses of the last century [273] Fontanges. . There was but a single person among them, who had a small piece of a guanaco's skin sewed on his seal-skin, to lengthen it. The children were perfectly naked, and, like their mothers, huddled about the fire in each canoe, shivering continually with cold, and rarely uttering any other word than pesseray, which sometimes sounded like a word of endearment, and sometimes seemed to be the expression of complaint. Those of the men who had come on deck, spoke a few other words, which contained many consonants and gutturals, particularly the ll of the Welch; and all seemed to lisp very strongly, which contributed to make them wholly unintelligible. They accepted trifles, such as beads, without seeming to value them, but at the same time they also gave away their own arms, or even their ragged seal-skins, without the least concern; their whole character being the strangest compound of stupidity, indifference, and inactivity. They had no other arms than bows and arrows; the former were made of a kind of berberry wood, very small and ill-shaped; and the latter of a different wood, between two and three feet long, feathered at one end, and not pointed. The points are put on occasionally, and they carried them in little seal-skin satchels, and parted only with a single one, which was a wretched irregular triangle of black slate. Besides these they have fish-gigs, of which the staffs are about ten feet long, of equal thickness, but angular instead of being round, and provided at one end with a sharp bone about a foot long, which has a single barb on one side, and is occasionally tied on. These instruments they employ to take shells from the rocks, according to the accounts of former voyagers [274] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 56. . All those gestures, which the most wretched nation in the South Sea had easily understood, were made to them in vain; they seemed not to have the most distant idea of teaching us their language, and having probably no eager desire of possessing any thing which they saw amongst us, they were not sollicitous to make themselves intelligible. All those who had made the voyage in the Endeavour agreed, that the people whom they had seen at Success Bay, lived much more comfortably and happily than these wretched outcasts [275] See Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 54. ; and upon comparing my account with the published narrative of that voyage, it will easily appear, that the Pecherais of Success Bay were considerably more civilized (if I may make use of this term) than those who fell under our observation. Their stature was taller; they had contrived buskins, which secured their feet; they appeared to be sensible of the excellence of several European goods, and to set a value upon them; lastly, they were more communicative, and had ideas of ceremony or civility; whereas those we saw, at the same time that they felt the inclemency of the weather, were yet too stupid, too indolent, or too wretchedly destitute of means to guard against it. They seemed totally insensible of the superiority of our situation, and did not once, with a single gesture, express their admiration of the ship, and its many great and remarkable objects. I cannot figure to myself a more unhappy human being, than one who seems to be so far deprived of reason, as not to defend himself against the injuries of weather, whilst he severely feels its effects; and who is incapable of combining ideas, and comparing his own necessitous situation with that of others more happy than himself. If ever the pre-eminence of a civilized life over that of the savage could have been reasonably disputed, we might, from the bare contemplation of these miserable people, draw the most striking conclusions in favour of our superior happiness. Till it can be proved, that a man in continual pain, from the rigour of climate, is happy, I shall not give credit to the eloquence of philosophers, who have either had no opportunity of contemplating human nature under all its modifications, or who have not felt what they have seen [276] The ill-natured system of philosophy which these men support, is only copied from Seneca, who made light of the distresses of others, being himself in affluence. The following passage is very applicable to the poor Pecherais, and the reflection at the end is one of those I allude to. Perpetua illos hiems, triste cœlum premit; -Seneca de Providentiâ. See also Hawkesworth, vol. II. p. 59. . It were to be wished, that the consciousness of those great advantages which heaven hath bestowed on us, in preference to so many of our rational fellow-creatures, might tend to the general reformation of morals amongst us; instead of which, our civilized communities are stained with vices and enormities, unknown to the wretch, who, compared with ourselves, is next to a brute, being destitute of that superior knowledge, of which, to our shame be it spoken, we do not always make the best uses.

These wretched natives of a most dreary country, fed on pieces of seal's-flesh, which being very putrid, were become highly offensive. They relished the fat oily part, which we would reject at all times, and offered some of it to our sailors. It should seem that they prefer this vile blubber by instinct, as all nations in high latitudes are fond of it, and are said, in some measure to season their bodies against the cold by this diet. The natural consequence of it was an insupportable rank stench, which exhaled from their whole body, and which their flesh, their dressed, arms, ornaments, and utensils seemed to have thoroughly imbibed. This odour was so completely nauseous, that we could not continue long in their company, and with our eyes shut, could smell them at a considerable distance. It almost surpasses belief, but is nevertheless an undeniable fact, that our boldest and roughest sailors were so totally overcome by this horrid exhalation, that they did not offer to contract any intimate acquaintance with the women. Our people offered them salt provisions, and rotten biscuit, but they set no manner of value on this food, and could hardly be persuaded to taste of it. Did their instinct perhaps teach them that it was more unwholesome than their own rotten seal's-flesh? - We did not observe any kind of subordination among these people, whose mode of life approaches nearer to that of brutes, than that of any other nation. It is indeed very probable, that they are the miserable out-casts of some neighbouring tribe, which enjoys a more comfortable life; and that being reduced to live in this dreary inhospitable part of Tierra del Fuego, they have gradually lost every idea, but those which their most urgent wants give rise to. They ramble perhaps in quest of food, from one inlet or bay into another, as we have reason to suppose this sound communicates with others, and take up their winter residence in the least uncomfortable spot of this horrid country. I am indeed of opinion that the rigour of the winter, is not proportionate to the cold during summer, particularly as the thermometrical observations made in the Falkland Islands, (see vol. I. p. 499.) which are not far from Tierra del Fuego, and nearly in the same latitude, strongly confirm this supposition. But allowing the winters to be as mild as possible, still however they must prove dreadfully distressing to these poor destitute wretches, who have not sagacity enough to guard against them. We are told by the Dutch navigators, especially admiral Jacques l'Hermite, who conducted the Nassau fleet into the South Sea in 1624, that the natives on the southern extremity of Tierra del Fuego are cannibals, and kill each other in order to regale themselves [277] See Recueil des Voyages qui ont servi à l'Etablissement de la Compagnie des Indes Orientales. Amsterd. 1705, vol. IV. p. 702. . If there be any likelihood that want of food has ever suggested this horrid practice, I should admit that it was possible, among a small number of unhappy individuals, driven from more convenient seats to these barren extremities of the world; and in that case it must likewise be allowed, that such a tribe cannot long continue in being.

The poor Pecherais embarked in their canoes again about noon, and slowly and silently paddled away, in the same manner as they came. [Monday 26.]Our sailors well pleased to see their ship safe at anchor, had already begun their holiday the evening before, and continued to carouse during two days without intermission, till captain Cook ordered the greatest part of them to be packed into a boat, and put ashore, to recover from their drunkenness in the fresh air.

[Tuesday 27.]On the 27th in the morning, some of the people being tolerably sober, captain Cook manned a boat, and went with my father, and Dr. Sparrman, to the same island where we had been so successful on the 24th. He brought on board in the evening some geese and other fowls, which were roasted, and preserved as a kind of sea-stock. In his absence the natives came on board again, but made a very short stay, as nobody took any notice of them on account of their insufferable stench. The word pesseray which they repeated from time to time, was pronounced in such a piteous tone, that we sometimes believed the natives were begging; but upon looking at them, we discovered no change of countenance; nothing but that vacant stare which is the characteristic of the most consummate stupidity.

Having completed our provision of wood and water, and brought the tents on board, which had been erected on shore, we sailed [Wednesd. 28.]the 28th in the morning, at eight o'clock, on our way towards Cape Horn. The refreshments which we had obtained in this sound, which was named Christmas Sound, and its convenient situation for ships coming into, or going out of the South Sea, make it a very fit place of resort. It contains many excellent harbours, and has wood enough for fuel, though little or none for the carpenter's use; its water is very pure, and well-tasted, and the air though keen, is yet very salubrious. Whilst we lay in this sound, one of the marines was unfortunately drowned. He was not missed till two days after, when an enquiry being made, it was discovered, that being much intoxicated he had gone down into the head, where he had probably flipped overboard. It was the same person who had before escaped drowning off the Isle of Irromanga, and who afterwards shot a native of Tanna. This was the fourth and last man we lost in the course of our whole voyage.

[Thursday 29.]In the afternoon we passed the island of St. Ildefonso, probably so called by Spanish navigators; after which we steered to the eastward whilst it was light, and tacked till the day broke. At six in the morning we passed Cape Horn, which is a large black rock, at the extremity of an island, lying before the Nassau inlet, discovered by Jacques l'Hermite [278] See Recueil des Voyages qui ont servi à l'Etablissement, &c. vol. IV. p. 696. . This famous cape has hitherto been ill placed in the charts, but the two voyages of captain Cook round it, have fixed its situation exactly at 55° 58' S. and 67° 46' W. After taking our leave of the South Sea, we steered for Le Maire's Strait, between Tierra del Fuego, and Staten Island. Towards evening, we came near enough to observe, that this side of Tierra del Fuego had a much milder aspect, than that about Christmas Sound. Here the land sloped down from the hills into long level points, covered with tall forests; and no snow was to be seen, except on the distant western mountains. We entered the strait the next morning, but were becalmed in it almost the whole day. Success Bay lay open to our eyes, and the country about it looked so rich and fertile, that we heartily wished to make some stay there.

About two o'clock in the afternoon, whilst we were at dinner, captain Cook dispatched a boat to the shore, in order to examine whether the Adventure had touched there, and to leave some account of our passing the strait. The ship in the mean while stood on with faint breezes towards the side of Tierra del Fuego, in order to take up the boat on its return. A number of large whales, not less than thirty, and some hundred of seals, played in the water about us. The whales went chiefly in couples, from whence we supposed this to be the season when the sexes meet. Whenever they spouted up the water, or, as the sailors term it, were seen blowing to windward, the whole ship was infected with a most detestable, rank, and poisonous stench, which went off in the space of two or three minutes. Sometimes these huge animals lay on their backs, and with their long pectoral fins beat the surface of the sea, which always caused a great noise, equal to the explosion of a swivel. This kind of play has doubtless given rise to the mariner's story of a fight between the thrasher and whale, of which the former is said to leap out of the water, in order to fall heavily on the latter. Here we had an opportunity of observing the same exercise many times repeated, and discerned that all the belly and under side of the fins and tail are of a white colour, whereas the rest is black. As we happened to be only sixty yards from one of these animals, we perceived a number of longitudinal furrows, or wrinkles, on its belly, from whence we concluded it was the species by Linnӕus named balœna boops. Besides flapping their fins in the water, these unwieldy animals, of forty feet in length, and not less than ten feet in diameter, sometimes fairly leaped into the air, and dropped down again with a heavy fall, which made the water foam all round them. The prodigious quantity of power required to raise such a vast creature out of the water is astonishing; and their peculiar oeconomy cannot but give room to many reflections.

The boat which the captain had sent to Success Bay returned about six o'clock in the evening. The lieutenant acquainted us that his boat had been followed into the bay by many seals, and some whales, upon one of which the boat narrowly escaped striking. He had not found the least sign at the watering-place of any European ship having lately passed this way; but on landing, several natives met him well dressed in guanacoe-skins, and large cloaks of seal-skins, with a much more chearful and happy countenance, than the poor tribe whom we had left at Christmas Sound. They had bracelets of reed, with silver-wire wrapped about it, to which they often pointed, pronouncing the word passeray, and seeming to set no value on any thing our people had to offer. It was concluded that they had received these ornaments from the Spaniards, either by means of ships which had touched at this bay, or indirectly through the hands of other tribes to the north of the strait of Magelhaens. After staying on shore two or three minutes, our people re-embarked, and came on board. We continued our course through the Strait of Le Maire, and the next morning ran along the shore of Staten Land, which was wrapped in thick fogs. Later in the day the fog cleared a little away, and gave us a view of the land, which consisted of mountains, to the full as craggy and barren as those of the west coast of Tierra del Fuego, though not so high, and therefore less covered with snow. Several islands, about thirty yards perpendicular in height, lay off this coast, and seemed entirely covered with grass at the top. Great numbers of seals were seen about them; and as captain Cook was in want of oil, he thought he should have the best opportunity of providing himself with this article, by coming to an anchor somewhere in the neighbourhood. These islands were seen by father Feuilleè, who has given a map of them in his Voyage to Peru, which we found to be very erroneous. After turning round them, we perceived a snug harbour on Staten Land, but captain Cook did not choose to put in there, because he was of opinion he might be detained in it by contrary winds. He therefore preferred anchoring under the lee of one of the low islands; and as the 31st of December ended at noon, according to the nautical reckoning, he gave these islands the name of New Year's Islands, and the harbour on Staten Land, that of New Year's Harbour.

;

CHAP. VI.

Stay at the New Year's Islands. Discovery of lands to the southward. Return to the Cape of Good Hope.

[1774. December.][Saturday 31.]OUR boats were hoisted out immediately after dinner, and we went in them to the island, which was above a mile off. The rocks along shore were covered with a multitude of seals, amongst which the largest had a long shaggy mane, and therefore deserved to be called sea-lions with much greater propriety, than those smooth animals to which Lord Anson gave that name at Juan Fernandez. Indeed many former navigators have also given them that name, though their writings are little read at present [279] Francis Pretty, in Hackluyt, III. speaks of our sea-lions, p. 805. " These seales are of a wonderfull great bignesse, huge and monstrous of shape, and for the forepart of their bodies cannot be compared to any thing better than to a lion: their head and necke, and foreparts of their bodies, are full of rough haire." Sir Richard Hawkins says something to the same purpose, and adds, that they have whiskers, of which one may make tooth-picks.-See Des Brosses Nav. aux Terres Australes, vol. I. p. 244. Sir John Narborough likewise takes notice of their striking resemblance to lions; and Labbe, in the Lettres des Missionnaires, tom. XV. adds, that the sea-lion only differs from the sea-bear by the long hair about his neck; an observation which is strictly true.-See Des Brosses Nav. aux Terres Australes, vol. II. p. 434. . We put into a little cove under shelter of a few rocks, and fired at some of these fierce animals, most of which immediately threw themselves into the water. Some of the most unwieldy, however, kept their ground, and were killed by our bullets. Several showers interrupted our sport for some time, but the weather clearing up afterwards, we killed with clubs a great number of the fattest sea-lions, which our crew carried on board, in order to boil their blubber into train-oil. The old males were in general very fat, and measured from ten to twelve feet in length; the females were more slender, and from six to eight feet long. The weight of the largest male amounts to 1200 or 1500 lb. for one of a middle size weighed 550 lb. after the skin, entrails, and blubber were taken off. The head of the male has really some resemblance to a lion's head, and the colour is likewise very nearly the same, being only a darker hue of tawny. The long shaggy hair on the neck and throat of the male, beginning at the back of the head, bears a strong resemblance to a mane, and is hard and coarse to the touch; all the rest of the body is covered with short hairs, which lie very close to the skin, and form a smooth glossy coat. The lioness is perfectly smooth all over the body; but both sexes are formed alike with regard to the feet, or rather fins. Those fins which originate near the breast are large flat pieces of a black coriaceous membrane, which have only some small indistinct vestiges of nails on their middle. The hinder fins are rather more like feet, being black membranes divided into five long toes, with a thin thong, or membrane, projecting far beyond the nails, which are very small. With these nails however we have seen them scratch all parts of their body. The tail is excessively short, and hid between the hind feet or fins, which grow close together. The whole hind quarters are very round, being covered with an amazing quantity of fat. The noise which all the animals of this kind make together was various, and sometimes stunned our ears. The old males snort and roar like mad bulls or lions; the females bleat exactly like calves, and the young cubs like lambs. Of the young we saw great numbers on the beaches; and one of the females being knocked down with a club, littered in the same instant. The sea-lions live together in numerous herds. The oldest and fattest males lie apart, each having chosen a large stone, which none of the rest dares approach without engaging in a furious battle. We have often seen them seize each other with a degree of rage which is not to be described; and many of them had deep gashes on their backs, which they had received in the wars. The younger active sea-lions, with all the females and the cubs, lie together. They commonly waited the approach of our people; but as soon as some of the herd were killed, the rest took flight with great precipitation, some females carrying off a cub in their mouths, whilst many were so terrified as to leave them behind. When left to themselves, they were often seen caressing each other in the most tender manner, and their snouts oft met together, as if they were kissing. The late professor Steller found these animals at Bering's Island, near Kamtchatka, where he was shipwrecked; and his descriptions, the first and best ever drawn up, correspond exactly with our observations. M. Pernetty, in his Voyage to the Falkland Islands, has likewise mentioned him; but his figure, which is very inaccurate, is perfectly in the style of all his other drawings, and corresponds with the truth and accuracy of his writings [280] See his Voyage, English edition, p. 240, and tab. 15, fig. 2. . M. de Bougainville, in his Voyage round the World, also speaks of them. They come ashore on these uninhabited spots to breed; they do not, however, feed during their stay on shore, which sometimes lasts several weeks, but grow lean, and swallow a considerable quantity of stones to keep their stomach distended. We were surprised to find the stomachs of many of these animals entirely empty, and of others filled with ten or a dozen round heavy stones, each of the size of two fists [281] Beauchesne Gouin, the French navigator, has made the same observation, and adds, " there was some appearance that these stones were already begun to be digested;" though I doubt whether this part of the story will gain credit with his readers.-See Des Brosses Navig. aux Terres Australes, vol. II. p. 114. .

Having made some havock among these creatures, we walked upon the summit of the island, which was nearly level, but covered with innumerable little mounds of earth, on each of which grew a large tuft of grass ( dactylis glomerata). The intervals between these tufts were very muddy and dirty, which obliged us to leap from one tuft to the other. We soon discovered that another kind of seals occupied this part of the island, and caused the mud by coming wet out of the sea. These were no other than the sea-bears which we had already seen at Dusky Bay, but which were here infinitely more numerous, and grown to a much larger size, equalling that assigned to them by Steller. They are however far inferior to the sea-lions, the males being never above eight or nine feet long, and thick in proportion. Their hair is dark brown, minutely sprinkled with grey, and much longer on the whole body than that of the sea-lion, but does not form a mane. The general outline of the body, and the shape of the fins are exactly the same. They were more fierce towards us, and their females commonly died in defence of their young. Great numbers of a species of vultures, commonly called carrion crows by the sailors ( vultur aura), were seen upon this island, and probably feed on young seal-cubs, which either die in the birth, or which they take an opportunity to seize upon. Besides them we also found a new species of hawks, and several geese of the sort which had so well furnished out our Christmas entertainment. Here we likewise saw a few pinguins, of a species which we had not met with before, some large grey petrels of the size of albatrosses, being the same species which the Spaniards name que branta-huessos, or the bone-breakers, and some shags.

[1775. January.][Sunday 1.]The new year began with a very fair day, though it blew fresh, and the air was sharp. A boat was dispatched to New Year's harbour, to sound and survey it, but as lieutenant Pickersgill had orders not to make any stay on shore, we did not accompany him, choosing rather to take another turn on the new island with captain Cook. The strata of this island, consisted of a yellowish clay-stone, and sometimes of a grey slate, both which were of different degrees of hardness, in different places. We fell in with many herds of sea-bears, and sea-lions, which we did not attack, as another party was sent out upon that errand. We observed however, that these two species, though sometimes encamped on the same beach, always kept at a great distance asunder, and had no communication with each other. A strong rank stench is common to them, as well as to all other seals; a circumstance as well known to the ancients, as their inactivity and drowsiness whilst they lie on shore.

__________Φῶκαι νέποδες__________

ἀθρόαι εὕδουσιν, πολιῆς ἁλὸς ἐξαναδὐσαι,

πικρὸν ἀποπνείουσαι ἁλὸς πολυβενθέος ὀδμήν.

Webfooted seals forsake the whitening waves,

And sleep in herds, exhaling nauseous stench.

Rowing along shore, we fell in with a spot where several thousand shags had built their nests, on those elevated tufts which I have mentioned before. Here was an opportunity to provide the whole ship's company with a fresh meal, which was not neglected. The birds were for the greatest part so tame, as to let our boat's crew come among them with clubs and staves; by which means several hundreds of them were killed. On this day's excursion we found a bird of a new genus, which was of the size of a pigeon, and perfectly white. It belonged to the class of wading water-fowl, its toes were half webbed, and its eyes, as well as the base of the bill, surrounded by many little white glands or warts. It had such an horrid offensive smell, that we could not taste the flesh, though at this time we were not easily disgusted. Captain Cook observed the latitude on the east end of the island, which was a barren rock wholly covered with herds of seals, flocks of gulls, shags, and other animals. We returned to dine on board, and then spent the afternoon upon the island again. We shot there several geese, amongst which was a new species; and were not less successful among a flock of pinguins, than we had been among the shags in the morning. They were of the size of small geese, and of that species which is the most common in the neighbourhood of the Straits of Magelhaens. The English at the Falkland Islands have named them jumping-jacks [282] See Phil. Trans. vol. LXVI. part i.4 . They sleep very sound, for Dr. Sparrman met one of them, which he kicked several yards by accidentally stumbling over it, without breaking its sleep, till by repeatedly shaking the bird, it awoke. When the whole flock was beset, they all became very bold at once, and ran violently at us, biting our legs, or any part of our clothes. They are excessively hard-lived, for having left a great number of them, seemingly dead on the field of battle, and going in the pursuit of the rest, they all at once got up, and walked off with great gravity. The seals and sea-lions were likewise killed with great difficulty, but their snout was by far the most sensible part. Dr. Sparrman, and myself, were near being attacked by one of the oldest sea-bears, on a cliff where several hundreds lay assembled, which all seemed to wait the issue of the fight. The Doctor had discharged his musket at a bird, and was going to pick it up, when this old bear growled and snarled, and seemed ready to oppose him. As soon as I was near enough, I shot the surly creature dead, and at that instant the whole herd, seeing their champion fallen, hurried to the sea; and many of them hobbled along with such precipitation, as to leap down ten or fifteen yards perpendicular, upon the pointed rocks on the shore, though without receiving any hurt, which may be attributed to their fat easily giving way, and their hide being remarkably tough.

The chace of these animals afforded great sport to our people; and the many singular circumstances which must strike the observer, in contemplating a species of animals associated into numerous herds, gave us much satisfaction. All these creatures were here in their proper climate; for the seals and sea-lions being loaded with an immense quantity of fat, and the shags and pinguins with a thick plumage, felt no inconvenience from the coolness of the weather. The captain obtained a considerable quantity of blubber, which was put into casks, and afterwards converted into oil; but a disagreeable putrid stench infected the whole ship for several days after leaving these New Year's Isles. In the evening our party returned from New Year's Harbour, on Staten Land, which they had found extremely safe and commodious. They brought with them some gulls, and five large ducks of the short-winged sort, which our sailors called race-horses. Each of these weighed sixteen pounds, but their meat was remarkably fetid, and not fit to be eaten. We spent the second of January in the same manner as the first, still making an acquisition of some new species of birds, with which this island, notwithstanding its small size, abounded. Among the rest we found a fine sort of grey curlew, with a yellow neck, which was one of the stateliest birds we had ever seen. The vegetable productions of this spot were confined to six or eight species, among which we saw some small shrubs not above three feet high, and a new plant; but the grass above mentioned ( dactylis glomerata) occupied almost the whole surface of the island. In the evening we hoisted in all our boats, and [Tuesday 3.]the next morning at three o'clock we set sail, and doubled the N. E. end of Staten Land, which is named Cape St. John by father Feuillèe. A prodigious strong tide was observed to run past our ship every day whilst we lay at anchor, at the rate of four or five miles an hour. This is, however, so much the less remarkable, as the Straits of Magelhaens and the eastern coast of America, in high southern latitudes, are likewise known to have strong tides. The New Year's Islands, which we now left, are situated in 54° 46' S. and 64° 30' W. The largest of them is about six leagues, and that under which we lay at anchor appeared to be between three and four leagues in circuit. They are excellent places of refreshment for a ship's crew bound on expeditions like ours; for though the flesh of sea-lions and pinguins is not the most palatable food, yet it is infinitely more salubrious than salt meat; and by searching the different islands, it is not improbable that a sufficient quantity of celery and scurvy-grass might be found to supply the whole crew, especially as we saw both the species on our excursions. Our seamen lived several days on young shags and pinguins, of which they found the former extremely palatable, comparing them to young pullets. They likewise roasted several little cubs of seals, but there was a degree of softness in the meat which made it disgustful. The flesh of young but full-grown sea-bears was greatly preferable, and tasted like coarse and bad beef; but that of the old sea-lions and bears was so rank and offensive, that we could not touch it.

After ranging the eastern and southern coast of Staten Land, till the afternoon, we took our departure, and steered to the E. S. E. in order to pass our third summer season to the southward. We had strong gales, which carried away a main-top-gallant-mast, and some studding sail-booms; but as the wind was in our favour, these losses were esteemed of little consequence. A halo of very great circumference was observed round [Thursday 5.]the sun on the 5th. It inclosed a dark area, but the circle itself was white, with several faint prismatic hues on the edges. This was reckoned a prognostic of storms, but we experienced mild weather for several days afterwards, from whence we may conclude how far such signs are to be relied upon. The latest charts published in England and France, have laid down a great sea-coast between 40° and 53° west, in the latitude of 54° and 58° south, which they found marked in a chart projected by Ortelius, in 1586 [283] See Mr. Dalrymple's Memoir of a Chart of the Southern Ocean , and the Chart itself, which bear an indisputable testimony of the laudable enthusiasm with which that gentleman has prosecuted his inquiries on this subject. , and in that of Mercator, published so early as the year 1569. It appears to have been discovered by Spanish navigators, as the name of Golfo de San Sebastiano seems to indicate. We passed over that part of the ocean, where the western coast of this gulph is said to be situated, but did not meet with any land. Captain Furneaux likewise the year before, passed across both the eastern and western shores of this gulph, in 60°, and afterwards 58° S. from 60° to 40° W. without seeing land. It appears therefore that either this gulph does not exist, or that it is not rightly laid down in former charts; and the latter is much more probable, since it can hardly be conceived by what means such a discovery could obtain a place in the old charts, without some authority to support it.

On the 6th, at eight in the evening, we changed our course, and stood to the northward, having reached upwards of 58° S. without seeing any ice; though Dr. Halley, in the year 1700, at the same season, found abundance of ice in the latitude of 52° S. A heavy dew fell on the 8th in the evening, which is reckoned an indubitable sign of land; and petrels, albatrosses, and seals had been seen from time to time, ever since we left Staten Land. Having run into 54° S. we began to steer to the eastward again, in search of the land which was discovered by M. Duclos Guyot, in the Spanish ship Lion, which sailed from Callao in Peru, in February 1756, and passed Cape Horn in the depth of Winter [284] See a Collection of Voyages, chiefly in the Southern Atlantic Ocean , published by Mr. Dalrymple, 1775. The land seen by Antonio la Roche, in 1675, appears to be the same with this discovered in the Lion. .

[Saturday 14.]We continued to stand to the eastward, seeing many birds, and now and then pinguins, and sea-weeds, till the 14th, in the morning, when the officer of the watch acquainted the captain that an island of ice was in sight. We continued sailing towards it all day; but in the evening we discovered that what had been taken for ice, was really land, which seemed to be of great height, and covered with snow for the greatest part. By consulting the accounts of M. Guyot, it appears to be certain, that this land is the same of which he saw the south end in June 1756, and which he named Isle de St. Pierre. He lays it down in 38° 10' W. from Greenwich, which agrees entirely with our observations of the north-west extremity, and is only between thirty and forty leagues to the west of the longitude which we assign for the S.E. end [285] See the Extract of Mr. Guyot's Journal, published by Mr. Dalrymple in his Collection of Voyages in the Southern Atlantic Ocean , p. 5, and p. 15. . Notwithstanding this coincidence, many were still of opinion that we only saw an island of ice; and as the wind was very boisterous the next day, and the weather extremely foggy, the point remained undertermined till the 16th. We had very cold weather all this time, the thermometer being at 34 1/2°, and great falls of snow covering our decks. On the 16th, in the morning, we had sight of the land again, and found its mountains of a vast height, covered with loads of snow and ice, in most places down to the water's edge. The only parts which were clear of snow were a few black and barren cliffs, and particularly some huge hollow rocks, that

_____o'er their wave-worn basis bowed. Shakespeare.

Towards the south end of this land we saw several low islands, like the New Year's islands, which appeared to have some verdure upon them, and were therefore called the Green Islands. As it had been the main object of our voyage to explore the high southern latitude, my father suggested to captain Cook, that it would be proper to name this land after the monarch who had set on foot our expedition, solely for the improvement of science, and whose name ought therefore to be celebrated in both hemispheres,

_____ Tua sectus orbis

Nomina ducet! Hor.

It was accordingly honoured with the name of Southern Georgia, which will give it importance, and continue to spread a degree of lustre over it, which it cannot derive from its barrenness and dreary appearance.

In the afternoon we saw two rocky islands at the north end of Georgia, which lay about a league asunder, and were of a dull black colour. We steered towards them, and about five o'clock passed in the middle between them. The northernmost was a craggy cliff, nearly perpendicular, which contained the nests of many thousand shags, and was named Willis's Island; it is situated in 54° S. and 38° 25' W. The southernmost sloped gradually to the westward, being covered on that side with some grass, and with innumerable flocks of birds of all sorts, from the largest albatrosses down to the least petrels, for which reason it was named Bird Island. Great numbers of shags, pinguins, divers, and other birds played about, and settled in the water around us, this cold climate seeming to be perfectly agreeable to them. Several porpesses were likewise noticed, and many seals were seen, which probably came to breed on these inhospitable shores.

We ran along the north-east coast of the land till it was dark, when we brought to, and did not resume our course till [Tuesday 17.]the next morning at three o'clock. The aspect of the land was extremely unpromising; the mountains were the most craggy we had ever seen, and formed many sharp points, between which the intervals were filled up with snow. We passed a bay, which, from the number of low green islands in it, was named the Bay of Islands, and opened another, towards which we stood with the ship, having soundings at the distance of two or three miles. About nine o'clock a boat was hoisted out, and captain Cook, accompanied by one midshipman, my father, Dr. Sparrman, and myself, went into the bay. We sounded in the entrance, but found no bottom with thirty-four fathom. Upon advancing into the furthest recess of the bay, we soon observed a solid mass of ice, such as is found in the harbours of Spitsbergen [286] See the Hon. captain Phipp's (now lord Mulgrave's) Voyage towards the North Pole , 1775. , in the northern hemisphere. This mass of ice bore a great resemblance to those detached islands, of which we saw such numbers floating upon the ocean in the high southern latitudes. The shores of the bay, nearer the sea, were clear of snow, but excessively dreary, and almost perpendicular. We landed in a spot which was perfectly sheltered from the swell, and where the land formed a long projecting point. Here we saw a number of seals assembled on a stony beach, and among them a huge animal, which we had taken to be a rock at a distance, but which proved to be exactly the same animal with lord Anson's sea-lion. The midshipman shot it through the head whilst it lay fast asleep, and we afterwards found a younger one of the same sort. It was all over of a dark grey colour, with a slight olive cast, something like the seals in the northern hemisphere. It likewise resembled these animals in the more perfect shape of its fore feet, and the want of external ears. Its nose projected far beyond the mouth, and had a loose wrinkled skin, which may perhaps be occasionally puffed up when the animal is angry, and will in that case form something like the crest which has been figured in the print accompanying lord Anson's voyage. The animal which we examined was about thirteen feet long, but in proportion, of a more slender make than the sea-lion with a mane, which we saw at Staten Land [287] This animal, or Anson's sea-lion, ( phoca leonina, Linn.) seems to be the same which the English, at Falkland Island, have called the clapmatch seal.__See the Philos. Transact. vol. LXVI. part i. . Here we likewise found a flock of about twenty pinguins, of a much greater size than any we had hitherto seen; they were thirty-nine inches long, and weighed forty pounds. Their belly was of a most enormous size, and covered with a vast quantity of fat. An oval spot of bright yellow, or lemon colour, appears on each side of the head, and is edged with black, the rest of the body being of a blackish-grey colour on the whole back, and upper-side, and white on the belly, under the fins, and all the fore-part. These birds were so dull, as hardly to waddle from us; we easily overtook them by running, and knocked them down with sticks. When we returned on board, we found that they were mentioned by that great zoologist Mr. Pennant, in the Phil. Trans. by the name of Patagonian pinguins, and we likewise suppose them to be the same species which the English at the Falkland Islands, have named yellow, or king pinguins [288] See the Philosophical Transactions, vol. LXVI. part i. . The seals which we found here, were more fierce, than any we had seen on the New Year's Isles, and did not run out of our way. The youngest cubs barked at us, and ran after our heels when we passed by them, trying to bite our legs. They were all of the species which I have before named sea-bears, ( ursine seals, Penn.) and not a single sea-lion with a mane, was to be seen among them. We climbed upon a little hummock, about eight yards high, where we found two species of plants; one was the grass which grows plentifully on the New Year's Isles ( dactylis glomerata) , and the other a kind of burnet ( sanguisorba). Here captain Cook displayed the British flag, and performed the ceremony of taking possession of these barren rocks, " in the name of his Britannic Majesty, and his heirs for ever." A volley of two or three muskets was fired into the air, to give greater weight to this assertion; and the barren rocks re-echoed with the sound, to the utter amazement of the seals and pinguins, the inhabitants of these newly discovered dominions. The rocks consisted of a bluish grey slate, in horizontal strata, of which many fragments every where covered the beaches. As far as we were able to examine them, they contained no other minerals of any kind; the whole country being useless, and frightfully barren in every respect. We embarked soon after with a load of seals, pinguins, and shags, and leaving this bay, which was named Possession Bay, and is situated in 54° 15' S. and 37° 15' W. arrived safe on board before noon. During our stay on shore, we saw some small fragments of ice floating out to sea, and heard the huge masses in the farthest part of the bay, crack very loud from time to time. We continued to coast the land during the two following days, and discovered several bays and head-lands upon it, which were successively named Cumberland Bay, Cape George, Royal Bay, Cape Charlotte, and Sandwich Bay. The appearance of the land was always nearly the same; its mountains towards the south were excessively high, and divided into innumerable ragged points, like the flames in a raging fire. Mr. Hodges had drawn a very masterly view of part of this coast, where the horrors and caricatures of nature are faithfully copied, in that great style which is peculiar to him, and which animates all his views of savage countries. The drawings I here mention are engraved, and intended for captain Cook's account of this voyage.

On the 19th we reached the S. E. extremity of southern Georgia, which we now discovered to be an island, between fifty and sixty leagues in length. A rock which was named Cooper's Island, lies off the south end, in 54° 52' S. and 35° 50' W. We discovered at the same time, an island to the south-eastward, about fourteen leagues distant, of which we could not yet determine the size.

[Friday 20.]We sailed towards it on the 20th in the morning, after having coasted the south end of the Isle of Georgia, till we came in sight of the Green Islands, discovered on the 16th. The weather had for these four days past, been extremely fair, and favourable for the purpose of exploring this land; the winds had likewise been gentle, and the air very mild. We had however, no sooner left the coast, than a strong gale, attended with fogs and rains sprung up, which obliged us to take in all our topsails; but it fortunately was of a short duration, for at midnight we were becalmed. The land towards which we sailed, was so much involved in fogs, that our seamen were uncertain of the situation, and continued to tack from time to time, in order to avoid it. The fog continued during the 21st, and 22d, and obliged us to change our course very frequently.

[Monday 23.]On the 23d, the same thick weather, being attended with a fresh breeze, we stood boldly on a tack, which all on board were firmly persuaded, would carry us directly from the land. Instead of that, about eleven o'clock, lieutenant Clerke saw the breakers scarce half a mile ahead, and several shags came to meet us, which seldom go to a greater distance from land. We now discovered that we had very providentially escaped being wrecked on the land, by making the circuit of it without knowing it. We put about instantly after this discovery, and stood off and on all day, as well as the next, because the same kind of thick fog, with frequent intervals of calm weather continued. In the evening however, the fog cleared for a little while, and gave us a fair view, both of the Isle of Georgia, and of the smaller one round which we had sailed. We found the latter of an inconsiderable size, and surrounded with other broken rocks; the whole dangerous group was therefore named Clerke's rocks, and lies in 55° S. and 34° 50' W. [Wednesd. 25.]Early on the 25th, we directed our course to the eastward, and afterwards somewhat southerly, in order to make another run towards the south before we returned into milder climates.

It has been supposed, that all parts of this globe, including those which are barren and dreary in the highest degree, are fit to become the abode of men. Before we arrived at this Island of Georgia, we had nothing to oppose to this opinion, since even the wintery shores of Tierra del Fuego were inhabited by human beings, who were still one step removed from brutes. But the climate of Tierra del Fuego is mild with respect to that of Georgia, the difference in the thermometer which we observed, being at least ten degrees. It has besides the advantage of producing a quantity of shrubbery and wood, sufficient to supply the wants of the natives, who are by that means enabled to rest sheltered from the inclemencies of the air, and to light fires, which give them warmth, and may serve to make their food eatable and wholesome. As New Georgia is wholly destitute of wood, and of any other combustible to serve as a succedaneum, I apprehend it would be impossible for any race of men to live upon it, though they should, instead of the stupidity of the Pesserais, be possessed of the ingenuity of Europeans. The summers of this new island are rigorously cold, the thermometer having never risen ten degrees above the freezing point, during our stay on the coast; and though we have reason to suppose, that the winters are not colder in the same proportion as in our hemisphere, yet it is probable there will be at least a difference of twenty or thirty degrees. This I think is sufficient to kill any men who may survive the summer there, supposing them provided with no other defence, than that which the country affords. But South Georgia, besides being uninhabitable, does not appear to contain any single article, for which it might be visited occasionally by European ships. Seals, and sea-lions, of which the blubber is accounted an article of commerce, are much more numerous on the desart coasts of south America, the Falkland, and the New Year's Islands, where they may likewise be obtained at a much smaller risk. If the northern ocean should ever be cleared of whales, by our annual fisheries, we might then visit the other hemisphere, where these animals are known to be numerous. However, there seems to be little necessity to advance so far south as New Georgia in quest of them, since the Portuguese, and the North Americans, have of late years killed numbers of them on the coast of America, going no farther than the Falkland Islands. It should therefore seem probable, that though Southern Georgia may hereafter become important to mankind, that period is at present so far remote, and perhaps will not happen, till Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego are inhabited, and civilised like Scotland and Sweden.

[Thursday 26.]We stood to the southward on the 26th, with a fresh breeze, and the horizon tolerably clear, considering the usual weather of these climates, and returned to our wonted but loathed diet of salted meat, having eaten the last pinguin which we had killed in Possession Bay; however, the expectation of a speedy arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, in some measure alleviated our sufferings. On the 27th at noon we had passed the latitude of 59 1/2° S. and saw several fulmars ( procellaria glacialis) which are commonly the forerunners of ice in high latitudes. Accordingly in the evening, between six and seven, we saw several islands of ice, and a quantity of loose ice. Fogs and wet weather set in this day, which prevented our steering so much to the southward as we had hitherto done. Many great masses of ice surrounded us on all sides the next day, and [Saturday 28.]in the afternoon a large bed of small ice, adjoining to several fields of ice, stopped our farther progress, greatly to the satisfaction of all the crew, who were at present thoroughly tired of this dreadful climate, and exhausted by perpetual watching and attendance, which the frequency and sudden appearance of dangers required. We had this time penetrated only a few minutes beyond 60° S. and gradually steered to the northward, as well as the winds, the thickness of the weather, and the ice would permit. Many of our people were at this time afflicted with severe rheumatic pains and colds, and some were suddenly taken with fainting fits, since their unwholesome, juiceless food could not supply the waste of animal spirits. The thermometer stood at 35° in these high latitudes; and this degree of cold, as well as the continuance of snow-showers and wet fogs, greatly retarded the recovery of our patients. However, as we now steered to the northward, we were in hopes of soon reaching a milder climate, fully persuaded that no farther obstacles lay in wait to try our patience. But we were again doomed to experience disappointment, and discovered another frozen country, which

Lies dark and wild, beat with perpetual storms

Of whirlwind and dire hail; which on firm land

Thaws not, but gathers heap, and ruin seems

Of ancient pile.

Milton.

The discovery of this land happened on [Tuesday 31.]the 31st of January, at seven in the morning, when the weather was so hazy, that we could not see four or five miles around us. We ran towards it near an hour, when we were within half a mile of the rocks, which were black, cavernous, and perpendicular to a vast height, inhabited by flocks of shags, and beaten by dreadful breakers. Thick clouds veiled the upper parts of the mountains, but one immense peak appeared towering beyond them, covered with snow. It was agreed by all present, that the perpendicular height of this mountain could not be far short of two miles. We sounded with 170 fathom close in shore, and then put about, standing to the south, in order to weather the western point, which we had now discovered. We had not run above an hour on this tack, when we saw high mountains to the S. S. E. about five or six leagues distant, which, from the course we had kept, we must have narrowly escaped about midnight. This being the southernmost extremity of the land, my father named it Southern Thule, a name which captain Cook has preserved. It is situated in 59° 30' S. and 27° 30' W. At one o'clock in the afternoon we put about, and stood to the northward, beyond the point which we had first seen. This now appeared to be a black rock, separated from a great projecting head-land. The rock was named Freezeland's Head, from a German sailor who first discovered it, and lies in 58° 55' S. and 27° W. The head-land, which has since been named Cape Bristol, appeared to be connected with the Southern Thule, by some lands which we saw very far to the eastward, forming a spacious bay. Captain Cook, however, did not venture to lose any time in the investigation of this coast, where he was exposed to imminent danger from the violence of westerly winds. He chose rather to explore its northern extremities, which besides, were doubtless the most likely to be of importance to navigators. We kept at the distance of two or three leagues from the land, having little winds, and seeing the coast every where steep and inaccessible. The mountains appeared to be of vast height, their summits being constantly wrapped in clouds, and the lower part covered with snow down to the water's edge in such a manner, that we should have found it difficult to pronounce whether we saw land or ice, if some hollow rocks had not shewn their black and naked caverns in several places.

[1775. February.][Wednesd. 1.]We found ourselves abreast of another projecting point in the morning, which captain Cook has since named Cape Montague, and which seems to be connected with Cape Bristol, a kind of bay lying between them. Beyond it we discovered another point to the north, which upon our nearer approach was found to be a separate island, and named Saunders's Island. It was not inferior in height to the moutainous coast to the south of it, and was covered with snow and ice in the same manner. It is situated in 57° 48' S. and 26° 35' W.

[Thursday 2.]We had little wind during night, but with the return of day-light, stood to the eastward, in order to weather Saunders's Island. On this course we saw two small islands far to the northward of us, which, from the day, were named Candlemas Islands. We could not accomplish our point with a single board, but the wind being contrary, tacked all the afternoon, in order to double the norther extremity of Saunders's Island. We came very near it several times, and observed a flat point or beach running out to the northward, covered with heaps of shingle, which were piled up in the wildest manner, and offered nothing but sharp points and ridges to the eye. The whole country had the most desolate and horrid appearance which can possibly be conceived; not a single grass could be discerned upon it, and it seemed to be forsaken even by the amphibious and lumpish animals which dwelt on Southern Georgia. In short, we could not help applying to it, that remarkable expression of Pliny,

Pars mundi damnata a rerum naturâ, et densâ mersa caligine.

Hist. Nat. lib. xv. c. 36.9

The wind permitted us the next day to approach the Candlemas Isles, in order to ascertain their situation, which we found to be in 57° 10' S. and 27° 6' W. We now steered to the eastward, and lost sight of the southern land, having doubled its northern extremity. Captain Cook at first gave it the general name of Snowland, but afterwards honoured it with that of Sandwich Land. I am inclined to believe that this land has been discovered by those early navigators, who have furnished the geographers with the Gulph of St. Sebastian, and the isle of Cressalina. It remains very doubtful, whether the different projecting points of Thule, Cape Bristol, and Cape Montague, form one connected land, or several distinct islands; and this may probably continue undetermined for ages to come, since an expedition to those inhospitable parts of the world, besides being extremely perilous, does not seem likely to be productive of great advantages to mankind. It was the object of our hazardous voyage to explore the southern hemisphere to the sixtieth degree of latitude, and to ascertain the existence of a southern continent in the temperate zone. Our different tracks have not only rendered it evident, that a continent does not exist in the temperate southern zone, but have likewise made it probable, by advancing into the frigid zone to seventy one degrees south, that the space within the antarctic circle is far from being every where filled up with land. The existence of such a continent has been believed by the most philosophic enquirers of the present age; and this opinion, though now so much invalidated, is nevertheless a proof of their great intelligence, considering the few data upon which they could proceed. Without ascertaining whether Sandwich Land is part of a greater tract, it may not be improper to mention, that one of the reasons alledged in favour of a continent, has lately been overthrown by experiments. It has always been supposed that the ice, which is seen floating in immense quantities on the sea, must be formed on shore from snow or fresh water; but it has now been proved that sea-water will freeze, and that the ice which is thus formed does not contain any particles of salt, except where it comes in contact with the water, which introduces itself into its pores and interstices [289] See Mr. Nairne's Experiments in the LXVI. vol. of the Philosophical Transactions, part i. .10

The barrenness of Sandwich Land, the gradual encrease of the nights, and the approach of a more rigorous season in these high latitudes, added to the consideration that we had a long run to make before we arrived at another place of refreshment, and that our provisions were almost expended, induced captain Cook to abandon the further investigation of the coast, and to steer to the eastward, nearly in the parallel of 58° S. where we had frequent snow showers, saw many ice-islands every day, and, contrary to our former observations, found the northerly winds colder than those from the south; on which a strong presumption may be founded, that there is no land in the last mentioned direction.

[Friday 10.]The sour krout, that excellent antiscorbutic food, of which sixty large casks were put on board our ship, was now entirely consumed, and the want of it was severely felt from the captain down to the sailor. It enabled us to eat our portion of salt meat, of which it corrected the septic quality. The wish for a speedy release from this nauseous diet now became universal, and our continuance in the high latitudes of 58° and 57° was disagreeable to all on board. On the 15th we bore away to the northward, having crossed the meridian of Greenwich, and on the 17th, at noon, reached the parallel of M. Bouvet's discovery of Cape Circumcision, when we again ran to the eastward that we might not miss it. The weather was favourable for the purpose; we had a fair wind, and could see to the distance of eight or ten leagues. On the 19th, in the morning, we crossed the place where this cape is laid down by M. des Loziers Bouvet, according to his own journal [290] See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages in the Southern Atlantic Ocean , 1775. , without having at that time the least signs of land, or passing more than four or five islands of ice in the course of the whole day. We continued to run on in the same parallel till [Wednesd. 22.]the 22d, having then explored six degrees of longitude to the west of M. Bouvet's supposed land, and about seven degrees to the east of it. Captain Furneaux likewise, after sailing over the space where the Gulph of St. Sebastian is delineated in the charts, and passing between our two discoveries of Georgia and Sandwich Land, crossed the meridian of Cape Circumcision, in the latitude of 54° S. without meeting with land. From the joint authority of these two tracks, we have great room to suppose, that Mr. des Loziers Bouvet saw only a field of ice, with such huge mountainous islands of ice upon it, as we fell in with on the 14th of December, 1772 [291] See vol. I. p. 98. . Some of our officers were at that time strongly of opinion that they saw land, as the ice bore a striking resemblance to it, and the French captain might be deceived in the same manner. Captain Cook was unwilling to leave it in doubt whether there was land or not in the situation of that field of ice seen in the beginning of our voyage; and therefore directed his course across it on the 23d, without meeting with any obstacles in his way, nor seeing a single island of ice in the same spot which had been covered with immense floating masses about two years and two months before. Being now well assured that there was no considerable land in this part of the ocean, we steered to the northward, in order to make the best of our way towards the Cape of Good Hope. The winds being north-westerly, and blowing very fresh, obliged us to make a great deviation to the east of our proper course, [1775. March.][Wednesd. 1.]till the first of March, when we could steer directly towards the Cape. The wind, however, soon shifted, and blew from its former quarter at several intervals. Its frequent changes occasioned great discontent among our ship's company, whose expectations of putting an end to their distresses, were wound up to the highest pitch. The clouds had perhaps never before been so attentively examined, in order to find some prognostics of a fair wind in their appearance, and the general uneasiness and impatience at an unfavourable change can scarcely be described. Our voyage had now lasted twenty-seven months after leaving the Cape of Good Hope, since which time we had not touched at any European port, and lived chiefly upon salt provisions. The sum total of all the days which we had spent on shore at different islands, and at very great intervals of time, did not amount to more than one hundred and eighty, or about six months. This was the only time of refreshment in the course of our long voyage, and yet during part of this, especially the last year's cruize, we obtained no fresh provisions at several islands. The run from New Zeeland towards the Cape of Good Hope was by far the longest and most difficult which we had ever made; for the trifling refreshments which we obtained in Christmas Sound, and at the New Year's Islands, did not afford the crew more than four or five fresh meals. If we add to this, the deficiency of such a salutary article of provision as sour krout, and the continual progressive decay of our salt meat, it cannot be very surprising, that towards the latter end of this run, the hardships of our unnatural situation should become more intolerable than ever. Several obvious reflections likewise encreased our uneasiness, in proportion as we advanced towards a place which had some intercourse with Europe. All those who had left behind them relations and parents, were apprehensive that they had lost some of the number during their absence; and it was more than probable, that this interval of time would have dissolved many valuable connections, diminished the number of our friends, and robbed us of the comforts which we used to find in their society.

[Wednesd. 15.]Notwithstanding the frequent changes of wind, we advanced to the northward so far, that we began to change our cloaths on the 15th, being then between 35° and 36° S. The next morning, at seven, we saw a ship to the windward of us, and about three hours afterwards we came in sight of another; and the eagerness with which every person on board bent his eyes towards these welcome objects, was the strongest proof of that universal longing for an intercourse with Europeans, which, though hitherto silent, now broke out into loud and fervent wishes. It was thought proper to hoist Dutch colours, upon which the ship in sight hoisted the same; we then hoisted the British flag, and fired a gun to leeward,11 but the stranger still continued to shew the first. As we were now arrived in a part of the sea frequented by European ships, captain Cook called together all his officers and sailors, and in the name of the Admiralty board, demanded their journals and log-books, which were all packed up and sealed. Those who did not belong to the military establishment [292] Mr. Wales, Mr. Hodges, my father, and myself. , were not subject to this restriction, but preserved their papers, being only requested not to divulge the particular situations of our late discoveries, previous to their arrival in England. The zealous and candid concern for the advancement of the sciences, which animates the British government, has not suffered them to conceal the improvement which different branches of knowledge have received under their auspices; and it were to be wished, that so laudable and generous an example, might be followed by other maritime powers, who at present seem to steal into the South Seas, and to be ashamed of owning that they have been there.

The ship in sight seemed to be a homeward bound Dutch Indiaman, and held the same course with us, but we gradually came up with her. [Friday 17.]On the 17th in the morning we sounded, and found bottom with fifty-five fathom, being arrived on the bank which runs off the south end of Africa. Some fishing lines were thrown overboard, and a fish called a pollack was caught. In the evening we made the coast of Africa, which here consisted of low sandy hummocks, and on which we perceived several fires. [Saturday 18.]The next morning a boat was hoisted out, and sent on board the Indiaman, which was now about five miles off. Our people returned in a few hours with the welcome news, that there was universal peace in Europe. The pleasure of this intelligence, was however, in a great measure soured by an account of the massacre of the Adventure's boat's crew. The Dutch captain having been long at sea from Bengal, lamented that he had no refreshments to offer us. In the afternoon, the weather being very fair, and the breeze freshening, we got sight of two Swedish, one Danish, and an English ship, which glided along with all their sails set, and colours flying, and offered to our eyes one of the most pleasing sights which we had beheld for some time past. [Sunday 19.]The next morning, the English ship bore down to us, and lieutenant Clerke, with my father, and a midshipman, went on board of her. In the afternoon, a strong breeze set in, our boat returned, and the Indiaman carefully stood off to sea, whilst we proceeded till we were close in shore. This ship was the True Briton, captain Broadley, on her return from China. Our gentlemen spoke in the strongest terms of the hearty hospitality with which they had been received, and invited to a plain dinner. Our readers may imagine with what avidity three famished circumnavigators, who had not seen fresh meat for six weeks past, fell upon a dish of fattened Chinese quails, and a delicious goose, which their host reckoned a very homely fare. On relating how long they had been absent from any European settlement, how long they had lived upon salt-beef, and how oft they had regaled themselves with seals, albatrosses, and pinguins, the captain and his mates dropt their knives and forks, and in pure pity to the strangers, resigned all pretensions to their dinner. At parting, captain Broadley presented them with a large fat pig, and several geese, on which we dined the two following days. We passed Cape Agulhas on the 20th, and were near being blown far to leeward of the Cape, by a very hard gale, if we had not discovered the land through the haze early on the 21st. We hauled up for it, and carrying more sail than we had ever ventured to do, in the course of the whole voyage, we came safe to an anchor in Table Bay, on the [Wednesd. 22; or Tuesday 21.]22d in the morning, which we found was only the 21st, according to the reckoning of the people on shore, we having gained a whole day by sailing round the world to the eastward.

Errabant acti fatis maria omnia circum. Virgil.12

CHAP. VII.

Second stay at the Cape of Good Hope.--Run from thence to the Islands of St. Helena and Ascension.

[1775. March.][Tuesday 21.]WE found the Table Bay full of ships at our arrival, amongst which was one English Indiaman, the Ceres, captain Newt. As soon as we were seen in the entrance of the bay, and known by our bleached rigging and anti-quated appearance, captain Newt very politely sent one of his mates with a boat load of the best refreshments, and with an offer of his assistance in case our crew had been in distress. Having been so long at sea, we were touched with this generous conduct, and with no small degree of pleasure and satisfaction, felt ourselves once more in the company of men. We landed soon after, and having paid our devoirs to the governor, and the principal officers of the company, retired to the house of Mr. Brand, where we were received with that hearty welcome, which always makes men forget national characters, and convinces them, that real worth is not confined to certain climates or nations. The weather was so intensely hot this day, that we did not remember to have ever felt such a degree of heat in the course of our whole voyage. Notwithstanding this, we dined, according to the Dutch custom, at one o'clock, or during the time of the greatest heat, and devoured our meal with a ravenous appetite, which painted our past distresses in more lively colours, and, as it were, with greater efficacy, than all the powers of language. However, as it would have been dangerous to our emaciated bodies to indulge our voracity too far, we were content to rise from table with a good appetite. We soon found the benefit of this proceeding, and visibly regained strength and healthy looks during our stay at the Cape. The officers of the ship took lodgings on shore the next day; but having neglected to take the same precaution, and eating immoderately at first, were presently surfeited, and continued to labour under a want of appetite and sickness, which made their situation truly tantalizing. Captain Cook sent two or three scorbutic patients to the hospital, these being the only persons who were not able to do their duty. The rest were soon restored to perfect health by a constant supply of refreshments, among which, a kind of brown rye-loaves, and all sorts of greens, were doubtless the most efficacious.

The pleasure of receiving some intelligence from all those who were united to us by the ties of blood and affection, was inexpressible; and the satisfaction of conversing with Europeans, after our long voyage, revived our spirits, which a thousand incidents had conspired to depress. We passed our time very agreeably, and assiduously collected, from heaps of old gazettes, the history of those years, during which we had been banished, as it were, from all the world. This settlement being resorted to, in summer and autumn, by ships of all nations, appeared at present in a more flourishing light, than during our former stay in 1772. Besides the great annual fleet of Dutch Indiamen, we found here several French vessels from the Isle of France,2 and likewise one from Europe, commanded by M. Crozet, who had formerly been at New Zeeland. Several Danish and two Swedish Indiamen also came in; a Portuguese ship of war lay here several days, and three Spanish frigates, one homeward bound from Manilla, and two going out to that settlement, passed several weeks in this bay. The great events which had happened in Europe during our absence, crouded upon us unexpectedly. Sweden delivered from the yoke of aristocratical tyranny, by a young hero, emulous of Gustave-Vasa; the barbaric darkness, which in the East of Europe and Asia had baffled the Herculean efforts of Peter, dispelled by a princess, who, like the wonder of the polar sky, spreads luminous beams, which turn night into day; lastly, Poland restored to peace, from anarchy and the horrors of civil war, by the united efforts of the leaving powers in Europe; and Frederick the Great resting from his triumphs, and sacrificing to the Muses in the shade of his laurels, revered and beloved even by his former foes! Such were the great and unexpected prospects, which all at once opened to our eyes, which promised general happiness to the human race, and seemed to announce a period of time, when mankind will appear in a more exalted light than ever!

[1775. April.][Friday 7.]During our stay at the Cape, we made an excursion to False Bay, where Mr. Brand commanded for the Dutch East India Company. The heat of the summer had, in many places, darkened all the tints of green, on that immense variety of low shrubs and plants, which grow in Africa. However we found a great number of species in flower, with which we filled our herbals. The roads are very bad, consisting of deep sand in many places, and of rugged heaps of the hardest stones, in the neighbourhood of False Bay. In our way we saw great coveys of a species of partridge, which the Dutch improperly call pheasants. They are not very shy, and may easily be taken alive, and tamed. As there are many parts about the Cape where these partridges do not breed, the Dutch have found the method of stocking such spots with them. They take several pair of tame partridges, dip them in water, and strew them with ashes, and thus put them among the bushes, with their heads under the wing. I do not doubt but that many readers will call in question the success of this simple manӕuvre; but I have only to add, that I heard it from persons whose sincerity I had no reason to suspect.

The environs of False Bay are more dreary than those of Table Bay, the country being almost entirely desart, if we except the commander's house, two or three other houses belonging to private persons, and some magazines and work-shops, the property of the Company. The colour of the mountains, however, is less gloomy, and the variety of plants and birds which we found there is surprising. Antelopes likewise reside in great numbers, some among the most inaccessible cliffs, and others amidst the small dry grasses and shrubberies in more level spots. We spent a whole morning in climbing these hills, and returned excessively fatigued from the immoderate heat of the day. On the mountains we saw several over-hanging rocks, forming small caverns, where the Dutch frequently pass the night, when they leave the town to shoot antelopes.

Simmon's Bay is that part of False Bay, where the ships are best sheltered from the violence of the N. W. winds, which prevail here during the winter months. A pier close to the commander's house is built out into the sea, where the boats can take in water and all kinds of stores, with the same facility as in Table Bay. Fish of the best and most palatable sorts are caught here in great plenty, and all kinds of refreshments are easily procured from the plantations on the isthmus, or from the Cape-Town itself, which is only twelve miles distant. The arrival of the ships draws several inhabitants from thence to False Bay, who confine themselves in narrow lodgings, for the sake of enjoying the company of strangers. This peculiar situation affords many favourable opportunities towards forming more intimate connections, which, we were told, the strangers seldom neglect, especially as beauty and vivacity are not uncommon at the Cape.

After a stay of three days, we returned to the Cape-Town, where we passed our time in examining the animals at the Company's garden, and searching all the furriers shops, in order to collect an assortment of antelopes skin. We were likewise favoured with the sight of a live ourang-outang, or ape, from the island of Java, of that species which has the honour to be adopted as a near relation by several philosophers. This animal was about two feet six inches high, and preferred crawling on all fours, though it could likewise sit and walk upon the hind-legs. Its fingers and toes were remarkably long, and its thumbs very short, its belly prominent, and its face, which was as ugly as it can well be imagined, had a nose more resembling the human than that of other monkies. This animal has, I am told, been since brought over to the menagerie of the Prince of Orange, at the Hague [293] This creature died at the Hague in January 1777; but, through the gross ignorance and canine malice of the keeper, the ablest anatomists in Holland were disappointed in the hope of dissecting it. He cut off its head, in order to prevent their examining the organs of speech; and its hands and feet, to preclude the possibility of comparing the phalanges with the human and other skeletons. When we consider, through whose interest the inspector of that princely collection at the Hague was appointed, we cannot wonder, that he was a stranger to liberality of sentiment.4 .

We became acquainted, in the course of our stay, with M. Crozet, who, attended by all his officers, dined with us, upon captain Cook's invitation, and entertained us with many curious particulars relating to his voyage. We were afterwards introduced to the Spanish officers, amongst whom there were several whose accomplishments and extensive knowledge do great honour to their corps. They visited our astronomer, Mr. Wales, and were much pleased with the time-keepers, or new-invented watches, which they saw in his possession, complaining, at the same time, of the inaccuracy of all the astronomical instruments which they obtained from their correspondents at London. Mr. Wales readily parted with one of his sextants to them, having now, in a manner, completed the voyage; but captain Cook refused to have any communication with them, and shunned them on all occasions, from what motives we were at a loss to determine. Their frigates were reckoned very fine ships by our officers; that homeward bound was the Juno, commanded by Don Juan Arraos; the others, going to Manila, were the Astrea, captain Don Antonio Albornos, and the Venus, captain Don Gabriel Guerna. The Dutch formerly did not suffer the Spaniards to land at the Cape of Good Hope, and discouraged them, as much as lay in their power, from touching there, keeping strictly to the Pope's bull, which points out the limits of navigation, and shared the world between the crowns of Portugal and Spain. They have, however, of late adopted more Protestant principles, and will soon drop entirely the aversion which they have long expressed towards the Spaniards, as they already feel no reluctance in taking their superfluous dollars.

Our ship's company being well refreshed, and in perfect health, and the ship being likewise refitted and painted, we took on board a quantity of provisions, to serve on our return, and prepared to sail with the first fair wind. After taking leave of all our friends, and particularly of Dr. Sparrman, who had shared the perils and distresses of our voyage, and whose heart had endeared him to all who knew him, we came on board [Thursday 27.]on the 27th in the morning [294] Dr. Sparrman arrived in Sweden in July 1776, having spent a year on a most hazardous and fatiguing expedition into the interior parts of Africa, where he penetrated farther than Dr. Thunberg, and all who went before him; and made many important discoveries, which he intends to communicate to the public.5 . About noon, the Dutton Indiaman, captain Rice, got under sail, and we followed her example, after saluting the fort. The Spanish frigate, the Juno, saluted us with nine guns; which unexpected mark of politeness our gunners returned a full quarter of an hour afterwards. A Danish Indiaman, captain Hanssen, likewise saluted us with eleven guns. Both these ships got under sail immediately after, and soon left us far behind.

We passed through the northern part of the bay, between Robben Island [295] This is called Pinguin Island in English charts. and the main. This island is a barren sandy spot, where many murderers and other miscreants are confined by order of the Dutch India Company. Among them however there are some unhappy victims to the merciless ambition of these merchants. We need only mention the king of Madurè, who, deprived of his possessions, and driven to the greatest horrors of despair, here lingers out a burthensome life, in the despicable condition of a common slave [296] I forbear to repeat the horrid story of this unfortunate monarch, which reflects indelible dishonour on his inhuman tormentors. It is indeed very fully and feelingly related in a book little known, intitled a Voyage to the East Indies, in 1747 and 1748 , containing an account of St. Helena, Java, Batavia, the Dutch Government, and of China; interspersed with anecdotes, and illustrated with copper-plates. 8vo. London, 1762. .

_________________escape who can,

When man's great foe assumes the shape of man. Cumberland.

On the 28th, in the morning, a man was found concealed in the hold, and proper enquiry being made, it was discovered that one of the quarter-masters had conducted him thither some days before, and shared his daily allowance with him. His good-nature was punished with a dozen lashes, and another dozen applied on the stranger's back as a welcome. He was a native of his majesty's German dominions, who having been kidnapped into the Dutch East Indian service, had applied to captain Cook to take him under his protection. But it being deemed improper to protect all his majesty's subjects alike, he had been reduced to the necessity of coming on board by stealth, in order to escape from a service to which he had been unjustly forced. He soon proved to be one of the most industrious men in the whole ship, and gave our crew a good idea of their Hanoverian fellow-subjects.

We shaped our course directly for the island of St. Helena,7 as soon as we had cleared the land about Table Bay. The Dutton Indiaman kept company with us, her captain relying on the superior accuracy of our computations; it being customary with all India ships, first to run down the latitude, and then to bear away for the island upon a parallel. [1775. May.][Monday 15.]We made the island right a-head on the 15th of May, early in the morning, and came to an anchor at midnight in the usual anchoring-place of James's Bay. As we ran along the south-eastern shore, we found it of a considerable height, and consisting of perpendicular porous rocks, of a brown and blackish colour, which in some places appeared to be hollowed out by the continual dashing of the waves against them [297] The description of these cavities, in Dr. Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. III. p. 796, must be considered as a poetical flight. .

[Tuesday 16.]Early the next morning our ship was saluted from James's Fort, which is the principal fort in the bay, and as soon as we answered it, the Dutton also saluted. The town, which lay before us, had a steep dreary mountain on each side, which looked more burnt and desolate than Easter Island itself. However, at the head of the valley between them we perceived some green mountains, and in the town itself two coco-palms rose behind the fort. After breakfast we landed at a flight of steps newly constructed, but which had at all times been much wanted, as the surf breaks in with great violence on every part of the shore. We walked between a huge impending rock and a parapet wall which faces the sea, to a gate with a draw-bridge, defended by small batteries. It led to a very considerable battery fronting an esplanade, with a shady walk of banian-trees ( ficus religiosa). Here we passed another gate, and entered the governor's house, which is likewise fortified, and forms a kind of castle. The governor, Mr. Skottowe, received captain Cook with the greatest marks of distinction, a salute of thirteen guns being fired on his arrival at the house. Soon after, the passengers from on board the Dutton [298] They were the Hon. Frederick Stuart, son to the earl of Bute, J. Graham, Esq. late in the council of Bengal, and his lady, J. Laurel, Esq. __ __ Johnson, Esq. and his lady, colonel Macleane, and several others. Mr. Graham is since dead. likewise came to visit the governor. This worthy and generous veteran, who has been crippled in his country's service, took every opportunity to make our stay on the island agreeable, and, in particular, to facilitate our researches as naturalists. We were in the course of the day introduced to the principal officers of the Company in the town, who received us with a degree of easy politeness, peculiar to men of liberal principles. The governor's house contains several spacious and convenient apartments, which are particularly agreeable in this hot climate, on account of their loftiness. Its outside is, however, very plain, as are all the buildings in the town, not excepting the church, which is newly built of lime-stone found on the island. A small garden, at the back of the governor's house, contains a few shady walks, and some curious East Indian trees, among which is the Barringtonia. The barracks of the garrison, which is here supported by the East India Company, are situated farther in the valley; as is likewise an hospital, with a small orchard, from whence the sick are supplied with greens, and where they are allowed to walk. Several other buildings belonging to the Company are situated in the same valley, where, notwithstanding the sea-breeze, we felt the heat excessive, being confined and reverberated by a high barren mountain on each side, which must make the residence in town highly disagreeable and gloomy. Many of the principal inhabitants open their houses for the reception of strangers who come on shore at this place from the India ships. The terms are here nearly the same as at the Cape; but the produce of so small an island as St. Helena, will not allow of that provision of good cheer, for which the Dutch colony is famous over all the world. We were entertained by Mr. Mason, a very worthy old man, to whom this settlement owes some of its best and most amiable inhabitants. Having taken our lodgings, we went to dine with the governor; and the spirit with which the conversation was carried on, gave a convincing proof, that the means of acquiring useful knowledge, from a store of good books, were by no means neglected among the inhabitants. Dr. Hawkesworth's account of captain Cook's first voyage round the world, in the Endeavour, had reached this island some time before; it had been eagerly perused, and several articles, relative to this settlement, were now taken notice of with great good humour and pleasant raillery. The total want of wheelbarrows, and the ill-treatment of the slaves, which are spoken of in that account [299] See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. III. p. 797. There are many wheelbarrows and several carts on the island, some of which seemed to be studiously placed before captain Cook's lodgings every day. The treatment of slaves is also misrepresented; they have not that pernicious influence on the education of the inhabitants, which is but too frequent at the Cape, and which there fans the fire caused by the heat of the climate. , were reckoned particularly injurious, and captain Cook was called upon to defend himself. Mrs. Skottowe, the sprightliest lady on the island, displayed to advantage her witty and satirical talents, from which there was no other escape left, than to lay the blame on the absent philosophers whose papers had been consulted.

Early the next morning, the Hon. Mr. Stuart, captain Cook, and myself, took an airing on the hills. We rode up that which lies to the westward, and is named the Ladder-hill. The road, which has been lately made, ascends in zigzag along its steep sides, and is very easy of ascent. Its breadth is nine feet, being enclosed on the declivity by a wall about three feet high, made of the same stone of which the whole mountain consists. This is nothing but a heap of lava, crumbling and decaying into a brown earth in some parts, whilst in others it forms huge masses of black cavernous slags, which, in a few instances, seemed to be somewhat vitreous. Many rocks of this kind hang over the road, and sometimes roll down to the terror and great risk of the inhabitants, being frequently detached by goats, which came to brouze there; but the soldiers of the garrison have received orders to shoot those animals as often as they appear on these eminences; and no other command is obeyed with greater alacrity, because they are generally permitted to feast upon the goat which they have killed. We proceeded into the country along the summit of this hill, about half a mile, when all at once appeared one of the finest prospects we had ever seen. It consisted of several sloping hillocks, covered with rich verdure, and interspersed with fertile vallies, which contained gardens, orchards, and various plantations. Many pastures surrounded by enclosures of stone, were filled with a small, but fine breed of cattle, and with English sheep; and every valley was provided with a little rivulet, many of which probably take their rise near two high mountains in the midst of the island, which are frequently involved in clouds. We crossed several hills, and looked down into Sandy Bay, which is a small cove situated on the opposite part of the island, and defended by a battery. The view was here romantic, the mountains being covered with thick wild woods to their summits, and several of them, especially that named Diana's Peak, rising in the most elegant forms. The rocks and stones in this higher part of the island, were quite different from those in the valley which we had left. Below they bore evident marks of the existence of a former volcano; but here above, they consisted of a dark grey clayey stone in strata, or in some places of lime-stone, and in others of an unctuous soft stone, like soap-rock [300] These observations do not agree with those in Dr. Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. III. p. 795. That volcanos are always seated in the highest mountains of the country where they are found, is an opinion contradicted by many facts; and the correspondence of angles in opposite mountains, is not more evident to critical observers, than landscapes on Florentine marbles. Dr. Hawkesworth has generally been unfortunate in his remarks on Nature, as well as in his philosophical digressions, and often misunderstood M. Pauw and de Buffon, from whom he has freely copied without making the least acknowledgment. If the reader is desirous of knowing the true state of volcanos, we will venture to refer him to Ferber's letters to Baron Born , London, 1776. Raspe Specimen Globi Terraquei, &c. Amsterd. 1763. Also Mr. Raspe's Account of some German volcanos, London, 1776. . The soil which covers these strata, is in many places a rich mould, from six to ten inches deep, and a variety of plants thrive in it with luxuriance. I found several shrubs on this excursion, which I had seen in no other part of the world, and among them were those which the inhabitants named cabbage-trees, gum-trees, and red-wood; the former thrive in places where the ground is very moist; but the latter are always found on the ridge of hills where the soil is dry [301] This difference is consequently not owing to the diversity of the climate, in various parts of the island. I have seen all these plants growing at short distances asunder, and the island upon the whole is not so immensely high, as to admit of several climates. See Hawkesworth's Compilation, vol. III. p. 796. . The cabbage-tree is one of the indigenous species, and has rather large leaves; but after many repeated enquiries, I found that it was never made use of any other way, than as fuel, and that no reason could be assigned why it has obtained that name. It must not be confounded with the cabbage-tree of America, India, and the South Seas, which is a species of palm.

We were thoroughly wetted several times by smart showers, after each of which the heat of the sun dried us in a few minutes. We stopped every slave whom we met on the road, in order to enquire of him what treatment he received from his master; being desirous to know whether the published accounts were more to be relied upon, than those of the inhabitants. In general, we obtained such answers as were favourable to these happy islanders, and removed the blame which had formerly been thrown on them. A few indeed complained that they were sparingly supplied with food, but this is a disadvantage under which I am told, even their masters sometimes labour, being obliged to eat salt provisions at certain seasons. The situation of the soldiers appeared to be by far more irksome, they being confined to constant salt-diet, of which the East-India Company, it is said, allows very scanty portions. Their pay is also very small, and made much less before it comes from England. Those who are most industrious, obtain leave at times to work for the inhabitants, and earn their subsistence by carrying wood for fuel, from the mountains to the town. We saw some old grey-headed men employed in this manner, who seemed very chearful, till we prevailed upon them to speak of their hardships, which they could not do without emotion. All however mentioned their governor with great affection, who is indeed generally esteemed on the island, and has the good of the settlement much at heart.

We returned into the town, descending along the slope of the hill, opposite to that by which we went up, and found ourselves much refreshed by our excursion. The horses at St. Helena, are imported chiefly from the Cape of Good Hope, and a few are now bred on the island; they are small, but travel well in this hilly country.

[Thursday 18.]The next day after breakfast, the governor invited to his country-house a numerous company, consisting of the captains and passengers in our ship, and the Dutton. We rode up the same hill which I had ascended in the first ramble, and at the distance of about three miles from the town, arrived at the place appointed. We were elegantly entertained at a small house, agreeably situated in the midst of a very spacious garden, where we saw several plants of Europe, Africa, and America, and particularly a profusion of roses and lilies, interspersed with myrtle and laurel. Several walks of peach-trees were loaded with fruit, which had a peculiar rich flavour different from that of our peaches; but all other European fruit-trees throve indifferently, and if I was rightly informed, never bear any fruit. Vines have likewise been planted several times, but have not succeeded, on account of the climate; and cabbages and other greens, which thrive extremely well, are devoured by caterpillars. We walked on all the neighbouring hills, and saw some small spots which had been sowed with barley; but this, and all other kinds of corn, are generally destroyed by the rats, which are immensely numerous on the island. The ground is therefore laid out in pastures, of which the vivid verdure, in a tropical climate, was really surprising. We were told that the whole island can support 3000 head of cattle, but that there were only 2600 upon it at that time. From the number of fields which we saw unoccupied, we judged that a much greater number might find sufficient food; but we were assured that the grass does not grow up again during winter, and that a certain number of fields must be reserved for that season. The beef is juicy, delicious, and very fat, and the constant consumption of it prevents the cattle growing old on the island. The common furze or gorse ( ulex europœus) which our farmers take great pains to eradicate, has been planted here, and now over-runs all the pastures. The inhabitants have found means to draw advantage from a shrub, which has universally been esteemed useless and pernicious. The aspect of the country was not always so delightful as it is at present; the ground was parched by the intense heat, and all kinds of herbage and grass were shrivelled up. The introduction of furze bushes, which throve as it were in despite of the sun, preserved a degree of moisture in the ground; under their shade the grass began to grow, and gradually covered the whole country with a rich and beautiful sod. At present the furze is no longer wanted, and the people assiduously root it out, and make use of it for fuel, which is indeed very scarce upon the island, though I never saw a more œconomical use made of it than there, and at the Cape. It is really surprising to see a variety of dishes dressed, especially at the last mentioned settlement, with no greater fire than an English cook would make under a small tea-kettle.

In our return we saw several coveys of partridges, which are of the small red-legged sort, common on the coast of Africa. We likewise saw several beautiful ring-pheasants, which have been introduced into the island by the governor, together with guinea-hens and rabbits. There is at present a penalty of five pounds for killing a pheasant, by which means they multiply so fast, that the restriction will soon be needless. Several other useful importations might still be made, which would contribute to the greater oppulence of the people. Snail-trefoil and clover might be sowed, which would doubtless give more substantial food for the cattle than grass alone; and the cultivation of pulse, such as carvanses and Chinese beans ( dolichos sinensis & phaseolus mungo), of which sago is made in the province of Georgia, in North America [302] This is equal in goodness to the real sago, which is the pith of a fern in the eastern islands of India. The North American sort is now well known in England, by the name of Bowen's sago-powder, and the royal navy is supplied with it. , cannot be too frequently recommended. A little perseverance, and a few trials, would easily succeed in destroying the rats and caterpillars, which now devour many useful plants; and these appear to be the principal obstacles to agriculture on the island. Asses ought to be carried thither from Senegal; where, as M. Adanson says, they have an excellent breed of them. The removal of all kinds of goods would be infinitely facilitated by this importation; and there are several spots of ground, where cattle cannot feed, that would be extremely suitable to animals which are so indifferent in regard to food.

We passed the next day at Mr. Mason's country-house, at the distance of four or five miles from the town. We made a circuit, in order to go up a high mountain adjacent to Diana's Peak, where we collected some curious plants, though the weather was very rainy. Having seen on this excursion a small kind of blue dove, which is said to have been originally found in the country, as well as the red-legged partridge; and likewise some rice-birds, commonly called paddies ( loxia oryzivora), which have been introduced from the East Indies; we passed a small farm, about a quarter of a mile from the road, where two Bramins resided, who were accused of having opposed the Company's interest in India. Whether the crime was real or imaginary, remains undetermined; but I could not avoid taking notice of the different manner in which the Dutch and English treat their captives. The king of Madurè is locked in a dungeon on Robben Island, whereas these Bramins are suffered to be at large, and have a house and gardens, with all kinds of provisions, besides several slaves to wait upon them.

In the evening we returned to town, where Mr. Graham gave a ball to the inhabitants. On entering the room, I was very agreeably surprised with the great beauty and elegance displayed in a numerous circle of ladies; I thought myself suddenly transported to the most brilliant capital of Europe: their features were regular, their forms graceful, and their complexion perfectly fair. To these charms we may add an easy deportment, a genteel education, a pleasing flow of spirits, and acuteness of understanding, which gave constant life to their conversation, and totally banished all formal constraint. The same company graced another ball the next night, which was given by Mr. Laurel; and, notwithstanding the short interval which was left for repose, we had the same reason as before to admire their vivacity and activity. The number of ladies was so great, that some of them were at a loss for partners, notwithstanding the presence of many persons from on board the two ships in the harbour. On this occasion we were told, that the number of female children born in this island evidently exceeds that of males, in the same manner as it remarkably does at the Cape of Good Hope. It would be an important circumstance to ascertain, whether this is always the case in warm countries, especially as philosophers could not fail to draw many inferences from thence relative to the domestic life of different nations. These proportions are not yet well ascertained, even in some parts of Europe; and where they are determined with some precision, they offer several curious facts. In England and France the number of male children exceeds that of females; but in Sweden it is the reverse. The number of inhabitants on St. Helena does not exceed two thousand persons, including near five hundred soldiers, and six hundred slaves. The greatest extent of their island is nearly eight miles, and the circuit about twenty. By the arrival of the India ships, which they supply with refreshments, they are in return provided with all sorts of manufactures and other necessaries; and the Company annually orders one or two of their ships to touch there in their way to India, in order to send them a sufficient quantity of European goods and provisions, which they stand in need of. Many of their slaves are employed in catching fish, which are very plentiful; and by the help of these, together with their cattle, poultry, roots, and salt provisions, they subsist throughout the year. Their life seems to pass along very happily; free from the multitude of cares which distresses their countrymen in England, and blessed with quiet and content.

The same company which had passed the evening at the ball appeared at church [Sunday 21.]the next morning. The Rev. Mr. Carr, a young clergyman of great merit, and of very liberal sentiments, pronounced a sensible discourse, well suited to his audience, and convinced us that he has all the qualities of an excellent spiritual pastor. After the sermon we dined with the governor; and taking leave of all our friends, whose amiable character had endeared them to us in so short a time as that of our stay, returned on board, captain Cook's departure being honoured once more by a salute from the castle. Towards night we got under way, in company with the Dutton Indiaman, and proceeded to the northward. The Company had sent an order to St. Helena a few months before our arrival, importing that none of their ships should touch at the Isle of Ascension, which they formerly used to frequent for the sake of taking some turtles. Captain Cook, however, being desirous of visiting this island, parted company with the Dutton on the 24th in the evening, after we had all dined on board that ship, and experienced many civilities from captain Rice and all his passengers. We came in sight of the land early on the 28th in the morning, and having run all day towards it, came to an anchor in Cross Bay about five o'clock in the evening [Sunday 28.]. This island was first discovered in 1501, by Joao da Nova Galego, a Portuguese navigator, who named it Ilha de Nossa Senhora de Conceiçao. The same admiral, on his return to Portugal in 1502, discovered the Island of St. Helena, which obtained that name from the day of the discovery [303] These particulars are mentioned in a Portuguese MS. obligingly communicated to me by George Perry, Esq. lately returned from India, and intitled, Conquista da India per huas e outras Armas, rea e# s e Evangelicas; the author of which appears to have been a Jesuit. . Ascension was seen a second time by Alfonso d'Albuquerque on his voyage to India in 1503, and then received the name it now bears; but was already at that time in the same desolate condition as at present [304] See the Voyage of Giovanni da Empoli on board of one of Albuquerque's ships; Ramusio Raccolta di Viaggi, vol. I. p. 145, edition of 1563. . We sent several parties on shore, who passed the night on the watch for turtles, which came to lay their eggs on the sandy shores. The dreariness of this island surpassed all the horrors of Easter Island and Tierra del Fuego, even without the assistance of snow. It was a ruinous heap of rocks, many of which, as far as we could discern from the ship, seemed to be totally changed by the fire of a volcano. Nearly in the centre of the island rises a broad white mountain of great height, on which we discerned some verdure by the help of our glasses, from whence it has obtained the name of Green Mountain.

[Monday 29.]We landed early in the morning among some rocks, the surf being always immensely high on the great beach; which consists of minute shell-sand, chiefly of a snowy white, very deep, dry, and intolerable to the eyes, when the sun shines. We ascended among heaps of black cavernous stone, which perfectly resembles the most common lavas of Vesuvius and Iceland, and of which the broken pieces looked as if they had been accumulated by art. The lava currents cooling very suddenly, may easily be imagined to produce such an effect. Having ascended about twelve or fifteen yards perpendicular, we found ourselves on a great level plain, of six or eight miles in circuit, in the different corners of which, we observed a large hill of an exact conical shape, and of a reddish colour, standing perfectly insulated. Part of the plain between these conic hills, was covered with great numbers of smaller hillocks, consisting of the same wild and ragged lava, as that near the sea, and ringing like glass when two pieces are knocked together. The ground between the heaps of lava, was covered with a black earth on which we walked very firmly; but where these heaps did not appear, the whole was a red earth, which was so loose, and in such dry minute particles, that the wind raised clouds of dust upon it. The conic hills consisted of a very different sort of lava, which was red, soft, and crumbling into earth. One of these hills stands directly in front of the bay, and has a wooden cross on its summit, from whence the bay is said to take its name. Its sides are very steep, but a path near three quarters of a mile long, winds round it to the summit. After examining this remarkable country a little longer, we concluded with a great degree of probability on our side, that the plain on which we stood, was once the crater or seat of a volcano, by the accumulation of whose cinders and pumice-stones, the conic hills had been gradually formed; that the currents of lava which we now saw divided into many heaps, had perhaps been gradually buried in fresh cinders and ashes, and the waters coming down from the interior mountain in the rainy season, had smoothened every thing in their way, and filled up by degrees the cavity of the crater. The rocky black lava was the residence of numberless men of war birds and boobies, which sat on their eggs, and suffered us to come close to them. The men of war birds in general, have a prodigious pendulous skin, of a bright red, which they can distend to the size of a man's hand, and which resembles the pelican's pouch, being perhaps intended for the same purpose by nature. On all this rocky ground, we did not meet with more than ten shrivelled plants, which were only of two sorts; one a species of spurge, the other a bind-weed ( euphorbia origanoides, & convolvulus pes caprœ). We returned on board at noon, where we saw only six turtles which had been caught over night, their laying season being almost at an end. The officer who had been sent to the eastward, found the wreck of a ship there, which appeared to have been partly consumed by fire, and was probably run on shore by the people, in order to save their lives. The distressful situation to which such a set of men must have been reduced, in this barren island, before a ship could take them up, drew an expression of pity even from the sailors. But their misfortune was now become our advantage; for our provision of fuel being very low, captain Cook sent his boats to take in a sufficient quantity of the timbers of this wreck.

About eight in the evening, it being then quite dark, a small vessel came into the bay, and anchored directly within us. Captain Cook having hailed her repeatedly, received in answer, that she was the Lucretia, a New York sloop, which had been at Sierra Leon, and was now come to catch turtles, in order to sell them at the windward islands of the West Indies. A lieutenant was sent on board, who learnt from the master, that he had taken our ship to be a French Indiaman, and was very desirous of trading with English India-ships, in which he was disappointed by the Company's regulations. He dined with our officers the next day, but on the 31st at day-break, left the island. [Tuesday 30.]On the 30th in the morning, we landed a second time, and crossing the plain, arrived at a prodigious lava current, intersected by many channels, from six to eight yards deep, which bore strong marks of being worn by vast torrents of water; but were at present perfectly dry, the sun being in the northern hemisphere. In these gullies we found a small quantity of soil, consisting of a black volcanic earth, mixed with some whitish particles gritty to the touch. Here we saw some small bunches of purslane, and a species of grass ( panicum sanguineum) which found sufficient nutriment in the dry soil. Having at last with great fatigue, climbed over this extensive and tremendous current of lava, which was much more solid than the heaps nearer to the sea, we came to the foot of the green mountain, which even from the ship's place in the bay, we had plainly distinguished to be of a different nature from all the rest of the country. Those parts of the lava which surrounded it, were covered with a prodigious quantity of purslane, and a kind of new fern ( lonchitis adscensionis) where several flocks of wild goats were feeding. The great mountain is divided in its extremities, by various clefts into several bodies, but in the centre they all run together, and form one broad mass of great height. The whole appears to consist of a gritty tophaceous10 lime-stone, which has never been attacked by the volcano, but probably existed prior to its eruption; its sides are covered with a kind of grass, peculiar to the island, which Linnӕus has named aristida ascensionis. We likewise observed several flocks of goats feeding on it; but they were all excessively shy, and ran with surprising velocity along tremendous precipices, where it was impossible to follow them. The master of the New York sloop acquainted us, that there is a spring of water on one part of this mountain, which falls down a great precipice, and is afterwards absorbed in the sand. I am almost persuaded that with a little trouble, Ascension might shortly be made fit for the residence of men. The introduction of furze ( ulex europœus), and of a few other plants which thrive best in a parched soil, and are not likely to be attacked by rats or goats, would soon have the same effect as at St. Helena. The moisture attracted from the atmosphere by the high mountains in the centre of the island, would then no longer be evaporated by the violent action of the sun, but collect into rivulets, and gradually supply the whole island. A sod of grasses would every where cover the surface of the ground, and annually encrease the stratum of mould, till it could be planted with more useful vegetables.

We returned gradually to Cross Bay, in the heat of noon, over the plain, having a space of more than five miles to traverse, where the sun burnt, and blistered our faces and necks, and heated the soil to such a degree, that our feet were likewise extremely sore. About three o'clock we arrived at the water's-side, and after bathing in a small cove among a few rocks, we made the signal for a boat, and were taken on board. [Wednesd. 31.]The next forenoon we made another small excursion, in company with captain Cook, towards the Green Mountain, but we were all of us so much fatigued that we could not reach it. We made no new observations in the course of this day, the nature of the island being dreary beyond description, in its outskirts. In the afternoon we hoisted in all our boats, and set sail, having taken twenty-four turtles, weighing from three to four hundred pounds each. They lasted us three weeks, one and sometimes two being killed every day, and the ship's company receiving as much as they could eat of this wholesome and palatable food.

;

CHAP. VIII.

Run from Ascension, past the Island of Fernando da Noronha, to the Açores.--Stay at Fayal.--Return to England.

[1775. June.][Friday 9.]AFTER leaving Ascension we made a good deal of westing, insomuch that we came in sight of the Island of Fernando da Noronha, near the coast of Brasil, on the 9th of June, about one o'clock in the afternoon. The longitude of this island being hitherto unsettled, captain Cook only ran in sight of it, in order to determine its true situation. Americo Vespucci, whose name has since been given to the continent, of which he was one of the first discoverers, fell in with this island in his fourth voyage, so early as the year 1502 [305] See Ramusio Raccolta di Viaggi, &c. tom. I. p. 129. ; but in what manner it received its present name remains unknown. In 1733, the French India Company made a small settlement on it; but the Portuguese laid claim to it, and took possession of it, in 1739 [306] Don Antonio Ulloa's Voyage to South America , vol. II. may be consulted, where some account of the Portuguse settlement is inserted. . According to the charts of the French, all the interior part of the island consists of extensive plains, which are surrounded by several hills along the sea-shores [307] A very fine plan of the island is published in M. Buache's map, intitled, Carte de la Partie de l'Ocean vers l'Equateur entre les Cotes d'Afrique & d'Amerique, 1737. This map was published with a view to prove, that certain shoals (now well known not to exist) caused the various currents observed in that part of the sea; and the tribe of French philosophers have built many systems upon it, which are consequently very ill supported. . We approached it on the east side, and then hauled close round the Isle of Rats, which lies off its N. E. point, and looked into the Bay of Remedios, which is surrounded by five forts, some on Fernando Noronha itself, and one on a rock which lies off the N. E. end. The island appeared very well wooded in all parts, and some of its mountains had much the appearance of being volcanic, though they were covered with rich verdure, which did not shew the least marks of cultivation. The five forts in sight hoisted their colours at once, and one of them fired a gun. We likewise hoisted our colours, fired a gun to leeward, and instantly putting about, stood away to the northward.

[Sunday 11.]On the 11th we crossed the line, after spending two years and nine months to the south of it. The calms which are usual in its neighbourhood did not retard our course, till we had gained near four degrees of north latitude, and lasted from the 14th to the 18th, when the N. E. tradewind set in, after we had amused ourselves with catching some sharks and a porpesse, which the crew feasted upon. Of a very numerous collection of live animals, which my father had collected at a great expence at the Cape of Good Hope, nearly one half perished before we reached these latitudes. Being desirous of preserving the rest, he was obliged to put himself to another expence, in order to rescue them from the malice of the sailors, who had slily and enviously killed most of those which he had lost before.

[Friday 30.]The trade-wind carried us out of the torrid zone in twelve days, and lasted us five days more; the sun, which commonly regulates the extent of this wind, being in the northern signs. [1775. July.][Tuesday 4.]On the 4th of July we met with squalls and calms alternately; and the next day had a dead calm, which lasted undisturbed during two days, and was intermixed with light airs for the two following days. The latitudes where these calms chiefly reign, are named the horse-latitudes by mariners, who frequently cross the ocean from Europe to America, because they are fatal to horses and other cattle, which are transported to the last mentioned continent; instances frequently happening, when the calms have lasted a whole month without being interrupted, except by light airs of a few hours duration.

Having obtained a fair wind on the 9th, we directed our course towards the Açores, commonly called the Western Islands in English charts; and on the 13th, at four in the afternoon, saw the Island of Fayal. [Friday 14.]Early the next morning we stood in for the land, and gradually came in sight of the lofty Island of Pico, of which the skirts appeared to be covered with verdure and habitations. Towards seven we drew near the road or bay on the Island of Fayal, where ships commonly anchor. The Portuguese master of the port came off to us in a small boat, in order to point out a secure place of anchorage, where three vessels were already moored. He acquainted us in French, that one of these, a snow under Portuguese colours, had lately arrived from Para in the Brasils, having, through the ignorance of her conductor, missed the Cape Verd Islands, to which she was bound. Another small vessel, which did not shew any colours, was a North-American sloop. The third was the Pourvoyeuse, a French frigate, whose captain, M. d'Estelle, with great politeness sent a lieutenant on board, to offer his services to captain Cook. After coming to an anchor, an officer was sent on shore to the commandant of the fort, in order to make the usual enquiry with regard to the salute; but after being detained several hours, he was told that the fort always returned two guns less than it received, for which reason we did not think proper to pay the compliment. The American sloop set sail in the afternoon, being greatly apprehensive of some mischance from us, though we were inclined to be at peace with all the world.

The appearance of the town, from the sea side, made nearly the same impression on us, as that of Funchal in Madeira. It lies along the shore of the bay, and rises in the form of an amphitheatre upon the hill, with an easy slope. Its churches, monasteries, forts, and flat-roofed houses, which are for the greatest part white, produce a very pleasing effect. The hills beyond the town are some of the richest that nature and industry ever adorned. They were at this time loaded with ripe corn-fields, interspersed with gardens, groves, and various buildings, which bore evident marks of a great population, and raised every idea of plenty. There are two forts which command the bay, one at each extremity of the town, but the southernmost is the most considerable.

Immediately after dinner captain Cook, accompanied by my father and myself, went on shore at the foot of the southern fort. We were no sooner landed than we plainly discovered from what motives the Portuguese had refused to return an equal salute. The cannon rested on rotten carriages, which it was not prudent to expose to the shock of a discharge; and the greater part of them were placed on a rampart, which was infinitely too narrow to be fit for use. Besides this, we were afterwards informed, that the expence of powder, upon such occasions, was deemed superfluous by the present oeconomical ministry in Portugal. We walked through great part of the town, which is named Villa da Horta, and extends a mile and a quarter in length, consisting chiefly of one irregular street, intersected by a few small lanes. The pavement is made of large stones, and tolerably clean, being little frequented. The houses are contrived exactly in the same manner as those of Madeira, with projecting balconies which are roofed at the top, and have lattices that may be lifted up occasionally, supplying the place of windows. After we had visited the churches, of which there are three, dark and Gothic like those of Madeira, we were conducted to Mr. Dent, the English deputy-consul, who received us very kindly, and offered Mr. Wales, my father, Mr. Hodges, and myself a lodging in his house during our stay. He accompanied us next to the different convents within the town. One of these belongs to the Franciscan Cordeliers, who are twenty in number, besides several lay-brothers; and, according to their own account, teach rhetoric, philosophy, and divinity to the children of the inhabitants. Another, situated on an eminence, contains twelve Carmelites, with their lay-brothers. The third lies on a hill above the town, and belongs to twelve Capuchins, with some lay-brothers. The fourth is placed in the best and most conspicuous part of the town, and was formerly the college of the Jesuits, but is now converted into a court of justice, a part of it being reserved for a public school. It cannot be expected that learning should flourish in all these dreary cells. The monks being here entirely cut off from the means of acquiring knowledge, are content to live comfortably and agreeably, without undergoing the fatigues of study. The two nunneries next attracted our attention; the one is dedicated to St. John, and contains one hundred and fifty nuns of the order of St. Clara, with as many servants. They wear a long cloak, of dark brown serge, over another of white callicoe. Eighty or ninety nuns, of the order of Nossa Senhora de Conceiçao, occupy another convent, with an equal number of servants. They wear white dresses, and have a piece of blue silk fixed on the breast, together with an image of the Virgin on a silver plate. The reception which we met with at their grates was very polite; but we could not converse with them for want of knowing their language. Their pronunciation was very soft, and in a singing tone, which we should have taken to be affected, if we had not afterwards found it general among all ranks of people. The features of some were very agreeable, and their complexions fairer than we expected, though in general rather languid. Religion had not yet so entirely occupied their breast, as to extinguish every spark of corporeal fire; their eyes, which were indeed their finest features, still betrayed an attachment to nature; and if there is truth in the hundredth part of the accounts which we heard at Fayal, love reigns with absolute sway in the midst of their cloisters.

After walking about till sunset, we returned to Mr. Dent's house, and were introduced to a Portuguese priest, who spoke Latin better than all the friars in the different convents, and appeared to be a very intelligent man, whose inquisitive turn of mind had got the better of many prejudices which were common among his countrymen. He communicated to us a Spanish literary and political journal, which is read at present throughout the Portuguese dominions; the prime minister having prohibited the printing of any kind of gazette or news-paper in Portugal. This regulation greatly contributes to keep that kingdom in profound ignorance, which is the only security of an oppressive government.

The next morning we paid a visit to the officers of the French frigate, who lodged at the house of Mrs. Milton, an English woman, and a widow. This good lady, hearing we had been round the world, shed a flood of tears, and told us that our arrival put her in mind of the cruel death of one of her sons, who had embarked in captain Furneaux's ship, and was one of those unfortunate men that were killed and devoured in New Zeeland. The circumstances with which his untimely fate was attended, are much more horrible, according to the ideas we imbibe by education, than those of any other manner of death, and could not fail of making a deeper impression on the unhappy parent. Her grief was likewise of that genuine kind, to which no feeling heart can refuse a sympathetic tribute; and it taught us to reflect, how many mothers in Europe, and in the South Seas, have had reason to wail the loss of their sons, and to execrate the enterprizing spirit of mankind. Mrs. Milton, reflecting on the many calamities which had embittered her life, was resolved to secure repose and happiness for her daughter, by placing her in one of the nunneries of Fayal; without considering at the same time, that the world has charms at the age of fourteen, which lose their attractive power at fifty. Her daughter was handsome enough to dispute the palm of beauty with all the Portuguese ladies at Fayal. One of our officers, therefore, undertook to dissuade Mrs. Milton from her project, and assured her, in very blunt terms indeed, that so far from doing a meritorious action, she would incur the eternal displeasure of heaven. Whether a seaman's admonition could have much effect I leave the reader to determine; Mrs. Milton, however, received it with good humour; and the conversation which followed, gave a convincing proof, that religious motives were not so urgent, in behalf of her daughter's confinement, as those of private interest.

From hence we took a walk upon the hills beyond the town, and found the ground extremely well cultivated, all the field being enclosed by walls of stone, in some places cemented together, in others only wrapped in moss. The people chiefly sow wheat of the bearded sort, of which the ears were very large, and the straw of no great length. Besides this, they have likewise barley, which was already housed; and maize, or Indian corn, which grows in some places under fine groves of chestnut-trees, that greatly adorn the country; but where it stands in open fields, they mix it with French beans. Near the cottages we found some fields of cucumbers, gourds, melons, and water-melons, together with safflor, which the Portuguese employ to colour their eatables yellow. Their orchards supply them with lemons, oranges, plums, apricots, figs, pears, and apples. They have few cabbages, and their carrots degenerate, and turn white, which obliges them to send for fresh seeds to Europe every year. They plant abundance of potatoes by the express command of the government, and sell them very cheap, because they do not like to eat them. Large sweet onions, and garlick, the favourite greens of the Portuguese, are plentiful on the island; together with the solanum lycopersicon, the fruit of which they call tomatos, and likewise abundance of strawberries. There are a few vine-yards on the island; but the quantity of wine which is made is inconsiderable, and its quality very indifferent. Their oxen are small, but the meat very good, though they are employed to draw the plough and the cart. Their sheep are likewise of a very small breed, but the mutton well tasted. Their goats and hogs are long-legged; and besides these, they keep abundance of poultry of all sorts. Their horses are small and ill-looking; but asses and mules are more numerous, and perhaps more serviceable in this hilly island. The roads are much better than at Madeira, and every thing, upon the whole, bears evident marks of greater industry. The deafening noise made by their carts is, however, very disagreeable, and owing to their aukward construction. The wheels are formed of three large clumsy pieces of wood, bound by iron, and fastened to a strong axletree, which moves therefore together with the wheels, and turns in a round hole made through a square piece of wood, which is transversely fixed to the bottom of the cart. The cottages of the common people are built of clay, and thatched with straw; and are small, but cleanly and cool. The inhabitants were in general fairer than those of Madeira; their features, though similar, were however somewhat softer; and their dress was in general much more decent and comfortable, consisting of coarse linen shirts and drawers, with blue or brown jackets, and boots on the legs. A short jacket and petticoat is the dress of the women, whose hair is tied in a bunch behind, and whose features are not always disagreeable. When they go to town, they put on a cloak which covers their heads, leaving only a small opening for the eyes, and is tied round the waist. The men likewise add a broad-brimmed hat and a cloak upon these occasions. Wherever we came we found them employed; in the fields reaping their corn, or at home in various other branches of husbandry; and not one idle beggar made his appearance, by which means the difference between this island and Madeira became still more striking. We rambled to some groves and wild shrubberies on the summits of the hills, where we found abundance of myrtles growing wild among tall aspen-trees, and great quantities of beeches, which being called faya ( fagus), in the Portuguese language, have, it is said, given occasion to name the island Fayal. The prospect from these eminences was very delightful, the town and road lying as it were under our feet, and the island of Pico opposite, at the distance of two or three leagues. A number of canary-birds, blackbirds, and other song-birds were heard on all sides; and their harmony was the more enchanting, as it put us in mind of those European scenes from which we had so long been absent. The whole country was filled with a variety of birds, among which we particularly noticed prodigious numbers of common quails, some American woodcocks, and a small species of hawks, from whence this group of islands was named Açores, that being the Portuguese name of a hawk. The prodigious heat of the day obliged us to return to the town about noon, and to take shelter in the lofty cool rooms of the consul's house. I was however too much pleased with the appearance of the country to pass the whole afternoon in town, and therefore accompanied Mr. Wales, Mr. Patton, Mr. Hodges, and Mr. Gilbert on another excursion. We passed by the Capuchin monastery of St. Antonio, which is situated on the hill; and being particularly desirous of seeing a rivulet, which would naturally embellish the landscape where it flowed, we engaged two lively boys to become our conductors. We now crossed some romantic hills and groves, where Mr. Hodges took several sketches, and soon opened a fine rich plain, laid out in corn-fields and pastures, in the midst of which lay the village of Nossa Senhora de la Luz, surrounded by groves of aspen and beech. When we had reached this place we separated, and Mr. Patton and Mr. Hodges only continued to walk to the rivulet with me. We were somewhat disappointed, when we saw a very deep and broad bed of a torrent almost entirely dry, except in one part, where an inconsiderable brook appeared to wind its way among the rocks and stones. However, we were prevailed upon by our conductors to go down into this hollow, where we soon found a great number of young girls assembled about the head of the spring, employed in drawing water. Among them was one who, by her fair complexion and dress, appeared to be of higher rank than the rest; notwithstanding this, she had no manner of advantage over her companions, but like them filled her pails with water from the fountain. We could not help being pleased to find the remains of patriarchal simplicity among a civilized people, where the superiority of rank is commonly marked by pride and indolence. From hence we walked along the bed of the river, which we were told is filled to the top in winter, when heavy rains usually happen in this island. The people told us they expected a shower, and had, for that reason, laid great quantities of flax in bundles into the dry bed of the torrent, in order to be soaked. This flax appeared to be long, and of a good quality, and is manufactured into coarse linens on the island. We came back to town much fatigued, when it began to grow dark, after having called at a peasant's house on the road, where we drank some of the common wine of the country, which has a bitter taste, but seems to be very wholesome. The rain, which the people expected, really set in as soon as we were returned; and I was told it would be of infinite value to the islands at this season, by swelling the grapes with juice, which otherwise remain no bigger than currants. During my absence, my father had conversed with several Portuguese, especially with the clergyman I mentioned before, from whom he obtained some particulars relative to the Açores, which have enabled me to give the following account of them.

The Açores were first discovered by some Flemish ships, in 1439, when several families of that nation settled at Fayal, where one of the parishes still bears the name of Flamingos. For this reason some of the old geographers have called them the Flemish Islands. In 1447, the Portuguese discovered the island of St. Maria, which is the easternmost of this group, then St. Miguiel (Michael) and next Terceira. Don Gonzalo Velho Cabral, commander of Almuros, settled on Terceira in 1449, and founded the city of Angra. The islands of St. George, Graciosa, Pico, and Fayal, were likewise successively seen, and settled; and last of all, the two westernmost of the group, were discovered, and named Flores and Corvo, from the abundance of flowers on the one, and of crows on the other. .

These islands, which are all fertile, and at present inhabited by an industrious race of people, are commanded by a governor-general, who resides at Angra in Terceira. The present governor was Don Anton da Almada, who is universally esteemed on account of his good-nature, and abhorrence of all kinds of extortion and oppression. Instead of accumulating a fortune in his post, he has spent much more than his income, living in great splendor on purpose to benefit the islands, for which reason he was continued six years in his government, though it is customary to keep it only three years in the same hands. His successor, Don Luis de Tal Pilatus, was however daily expected from Lisbon, together with a new bishop of Angra. The bishop's diocese extends over all the Açores, and he has twelve canons in his cathedral. His income is paid in wheat, and consists of 300 muys, or measures of twenty-four bushels. Each muy at the lowest is worth, four pounds sterling, consequently he has at least twelve hundred pounds sterling a year. Every island is commanded by a Capitan M o#r , who is a kind of deputy governor, or commandant, and directs the police, militia, and revenue. A Juiz or judge, is at the head of the law department in every island, from whom they appeal to a higher court at Terceira, and from thence to the supreme court at Lisbon. The natives of these islands are said to be very quarrelsome, and have law-suits constantly depending.

The isle of Corvo, is the least of the Açores, and contains scarcely six hundred inhabitants, who chiefly cultivate wheat, and feed hogs, exporting annually a small quantity of bacon.

The isle of Flores is something larger, more fertile and more populous. Its exports amount to six hundred muys of wheat, besides a quantity of bacon. But as no wine is made in both these islands, the inhabitants are obliged to import a quantity for their consumption from Fayal. A large Spanish ship of war, richly laden, was lost upon the coast of Flores many years ago; her crew and all her treasures however were saved. These Spaniards introduced the venereal disease upon the island, where it was never known before, and their riches being an irresistible temptation with many women, every individual inhabitant was soon infected. To expiate this crime in some measure, they have built a church at a great expence, which is now reckoned the handsomest building in all the Açores. The evil has however maintained its ground, and as in Peru, or in some parts of Siberia, no inhabitant of Flores is free from it.

Fayal is one of the larger islands in the group, being nine leagues long from east to west, and about four leagues broad. Its present commandant, or Capitan M o#r , is called Senhor Thomas Francisco Brum de Silveyra; he has the character of a greedy covetous man, and always lives in the country, in order to avoid shewing civilities to strangers, or keeping company with the inhabitants of the town. The judge of Fayal was then expected from Portugal, with the new governor-general. The head of the clergy on the island, is only styled oviedor or auditor, and was the vicar of the principal church in the town.

Learning is much discountenanced at Fayal, as in all the Açores, and in Portugal itself. M. de Fleurieu with M. Pingrè;, the French astronomer, who went out to try some time-keepers, were not permitted to land their instruments at Terceira, it being apprehended that they meant to do some mischief to the island [308] Our astronomer did not expose himself to a refusal; but fixed the quadrant, and observed in the garden adjoining to the consul's house, unknown to all the Portuguese.2 . Upwards of two years ago, an impost of two reys [309] A rey is about the twelfth part of a penny sterling, and a canari is somewhat larger than a gallon. was laid on each canari of wine, made in Fayal and Pico, which amounts to something more than a shipping per pipe, and produces about one thousand pounds a year. This revenue was to be raised under pretence of providing the salary of three professors, to be established at Fayal, after undergoing an examination at Lisbon. But unfortunately for science, and for the inhabitants of the island, the money was no sooner collected, than it was applied to a very different use, and now serves to pay and support the garrison, which nominally consists of one hundred, but in effect of only forty men, without either discipline or arms. In consequence of this abuse, there are at present no public institutions for the improvement of children, and those only who can afford to pay for instruction, can give their children a lettered education. There is a professor appointed indeed, who has passed the examination; but as he receives no salary, he poorly earns his bread by teaching the rudiments of Latin. It must be confessed, that the impost upon the wine, is not the only one which is misapplied in this island. There is another much more considerable, of two per cent. laid on all the exports, the produce of which is intended to maintain the fortifications in good repair. However, it is at present thought fit to suffer the batteries to decay, and to transmit the money to Terceira, where it is not better employed. One tenth on all the productions of the Aèores belong to the king, and the single article of tobacco, which is monopolized by the crown, brings in a considerable sum. The possession of these islands, small as they are, can therefore never be indifferent to Portugal.

Wheat and maize are the chief products of Fayal; and of the former, it sends several ship loads to Lisbon in plentiful years. Some flax is likewise raised there; but the wine known by the name of Fayal wine, is all raised on the island of Pico, which lies directly opposite, and has no harbour. The number of inhabitants in Fayal is computed at 15000, distributed in twelve parishes; and one third of the number live in the town, or Villa da Horta, which contains three of the above parishes. Its road or bay is reckoned tolerably safe in summer, but in winter it is open to south and south-east winds, which, I was told, blow hard at that season. However, as the bottom is a good sand, the American vessels sometimes ride there in the worst weather, by three or four anchors. The wine of Pico is chiefly carried from Fayal to North America, and to Brasil.

The isle of Pico has its name from the peak or high mountain upon it, which is frequently capt with clouds, and serves the inhabitants of Fayal nearly the same purpose as a barometer. The island is not only the greatest, but also the most populous of the Aèores, containing 30000 inhabitants. It has no corn-fields, being every where covered with vineyards, which have a most enchanting appearance on the easy slope at the foot of the mountain. The corn, and other necessaries for the consumption of the natives, are therefore supplied from Fayal, most of the principal families of that island having large possessions on the opposite, or western part of Pico. The season of vintage, is the season of mirth and festivity, when a fourth, or even a third part of the inhabitants of Fayal, remove to Pico with their families, down to the smallest domestic animals. It is affirmed that a quantity of grapes, which would yield three thousand pipes of wine, are eaten at that time, every person indulging his taste with this delicious fruit, though no people are more sober and frugal at their meals than the Portuguese. Formerly the vintage produced annually 30000, and sometimes in fortunate years 37000 pipes of wine; but a kind of disease attacked the vines some years ago, which causes the leaves to drop off, at the time when the grapes require to be sheltered from the sun [310] I suspect this to be caused by some species of insects. . Of late however they have recovered, and at present yield from 18000 to 20000 pipes a year. The best wine is made on the west side of the island, in the vineyards which belong to the natives of Fayal. That which is raised on the opposite side, is converted into brandy, of which one pipe is made from three or four pipes of wine. The best sort of wine is tart, but pleasant, and has a good body, which improves greatly by being kept; a pipe of it is sold on the spot for between four and five pounds sterling. A small quantity of sweet wine is likewise made, which they call passada, and of which the pipe is sold at the rate of seven or eight pounds sterling.

St. George is a small narrow island, very steep, and of considerable height. It is inhabited by 5000 persons, who cultivate much wheat, but scarcely any wine.

Graciosa has a more gentle slope than the former, but is likewise very small, and chiefly produces wheat, having 3000 inhabitants. A small quantity of indifferent wine is likewise made on it, which is converted into brandy; from five to six pipes of wine being required to make one pipe of brandy. Graciosa and St. George likewise have some pastures, and export cheese and butter.

Terceira is the largest island, next to Pico, of all the Açores. It is highly cultivated with wheat, and likewise produced some bad wine. As it is the residence of the governor-general, and of the superior court of justice, as well as a bishop's see, it has some kind of importance above the rest. Its inhabitants are computed at 20,000, and its exports consist in wheat, which is sent to Lisbon.

St. Miguiel is likewise of considerable extent, very fertile and populous, containing about 25,000 inhabitants. They cultivate no vines, but abundance of wheat and flax. Of the latter they manufacture such a quantity of coarse linens, that three ship-loads of them are annually sent to Brasil. The linen is about two feet wide, and the vara [311] Portuguese yard. of the common sort is sold for about one shilling and six pence, which is to all appearance a very high price. The principal place on this island is a city named Ponte de Gada.

Santa Maria is the south-eastermost of all the Açores, and produces plenty of wheat. The inhabitants amount to 5000, some of whom manufacture a kind of coarse earthen-ware, with which they supply all the islands. They have likewise built two small ships lately, of wood which grew in their own island.

I flatter myself that the above particulars, though insufficient to give a perfect idea of the Açores, will not be unacceptable to my readers, especially as these islands, being seldom visited by Europeans, are little known, notwithstanding their short distance from us.

We passed the Sunday in visiting several churches, and accompanied captain Cook, in the afternoon, to the different convents. Each of them has a church annexed to it, where we commonly saw two pulpits, opposite to each other. It is usual here, at certain stated times, to allow the devil to defend himself in one of these pulpits, whilst he is arraigned in the other; but at the same time it may be superfluous to mention, that Satan is always sure to be defeated, though his opponent were the most ignorant monk that ever was fattened in a convent. Most of the altars are made of cedar wood, and perfume the whole church very agreeably. In the evening we saw a great procession, at which all the clergy in town assisted, and where most of the principal inhabitants likewise took part, by walking in black gowns before the Host. The commercial intercourse with the North-Americans seems to have abated the spirit of persecution, of which the church of Rome is sometimes accused in other countries. When the host passes, no person is insulted, who does not choose to perform an act of adoration; and strangers in particular are treated with a degree of civility on this subject, which they do not meet with in the polite but slavish metropolis of France.

We took a walk the next morning upon the hills to the northward of the town, which furnished some of the most beautiful prospects. All the roads were lined with tall shady trees, and on both sides were corn-fields, gardens, and orchards. We were able to overlook the whole plain, in which the village of Nossa Senhora de la Luz is situated, and beyond it viewed a ridge of hills, which lead to the highest part of the island. There is a deep circular valley, as I was informed by the inhabitants, on the summit of one of the hills, about nine miles from the town. This cavity is about two leagues in circumference, and its sides slope uniformly down, covered with a rich herbage, where many sheep are grazing in flocks, which, though belonging to private persons, are almost entirely wild. Rabbits and quails likewise are plentiful on its sides, and at the bottom there is a lake of fresh water, well stocked with wild-ducks. The water is said to be about four or five feet deep all over it. This excavation, called La Caldeira, or the Kettle, from its figure, seems to be the crater of a former volcano; which becomes so much the more probable, as we know that some other volcanos have existed in the Açores. That remarkable mountain, which rose to the surface of the sea, forming a new island, in the year 1638, close to the islands of St. Michael, was doubtless produced by the action of a very powerful volcano; and though it sunk again within a short space of time after its formation, yet its momentary appearance sufficiently overthrows the assertion, that only the highest peaks of the world can have internal fires [312] See an account of this remarkable volcano in the Memoires de l'Acad. de Paris, de 1721, p. 26. Ibid, 1722, p. 12. Phil. Trans. abridged, vol. VI. p. 154. and Raspe Specimen Hist. Nat. Globi Terraquei. Amst. 1763. p. 115. The last mentioned author3 has collected every thing relating to the history of volcanic islands, known at the time when he wrote; and having treated the subject as a man of science and genius, his book is very fit to be perused by the tribe of shallow pretenders to knowledge, who dress in borrowed plumes. . The island which appeared between Terceira and St. Michael, in November 1720, was exactly of the same nature, and confirms the above circumstances. The lofty summit of Pico likewise constantly emits a smoke, which we were assured of by a Portuguese captain, named Xaviers, who had taken the pains to climb to the top; and this smoke may be seen on fair days at Fayal, very early in the morning. Earthquakes are likewise very common at all the Açores, and several shocks were felt at Fayal three weeks before our arrival. It appears therefore that almost all the islands of the Atlantic Ocean, like those of the South Sea, have vestiges of former volcanos, or still contain burning mountains, at this moment.

We returned to town, after visiting the country-house and gardens belonging to one of the principal inhabitants, which were contrived with more taste than could be expected in this island. We were extremely sensible of the heat, which was very great at this season, though we came from the torrid zone. In general, however, the climate of the Açores is said to be very happy, salubrious, and temperate. The severities of winter are never felt; the winds indeed are sometimes boisterous at that season, and the rains more frequent, but frost and snow appear only on the higher parts of the peak. The spring and autumn, as also the greatest part of summer, are reckoned delightful; since a fine breeze of wind commonly cools the air sufficiently to mitigate the heat of the sun.

In the afternoon, M. Estries, the French consul, went with me to the convent of St. Clare, where his whole family paid a visit to his sisters, who had taken the veil. I was much surprised, that not even the female relations were admitted within the parlour grates, as this degree of rigid sequestration is uncommon. It is customary for the nuns to offer their visitors some dainties to eat, but here they served up a whole repast, which consisted of several rich and luscious dishes. That the mind can be at ease, and disposed to spiritual meditation, when the body is exhausted with abstinence and watching, seems to be improbable; but whether the opposite extreme, the luxury of a well furnished table, is better suited to that principal intent of monastic life, may be doubted with equal justice.

The next day, about noon, having taken leave of all our acquaintance, we returned on board with the consul, and several Portuguese, who honoured us with their company at dinner; we passed the afternoon very agreeably, their conversation being easy and chearful, the reverse of that haughty taciturnity which is the general character of the Portuguese nobility at Madeira. They were put on shore in the evening, and at four the next morning we weighed, and set sail with a fair wind.

[Wednesd. 19.] We passed by the islands of St. George and Graciosa, and came in sight of Terceira at noon. About three o'clock in the afternoon we sailed along its north side, which exhibited the richest corn-fields, and various villages surrounded by trees. We took leave of it in the evening, and then directed our course to the channel. On the 29th, at four o'clock, we saw the Start Point and Eddistone light-house near it, the same parts of the English shores which we had last seen at the beginning of the voyage. [Sunday 30.]The next morning we passed through the Needles, and swiftly sailing between the Isle of Wight and the fertile shores of Hampshire, came to an anchor a little before noon at Spithead.

Thus, after escaping innumerable dangers, and suffering a long series of hardships, we happily completed a voyage, which had lasted three years and sixteen days; in the course of which, it is computed we run over a greater space of sea than any ship ever did before us; since, taking all our tracks together, they form more than thrice the circumference of the globe. We were likewise fortunate enough to lose only four men; three of whom died by accident, and one by a disease, which would perhaps have brought him to the grave much sooner had he continued in England [313] From the bills of mortality in Europe, it is computed that three men in a hundred annually die; according to which, we should have lost at least ten men. Therefore, notwithstanding the best precautions may be taken for the future, yet, from the chance or probability of events, another ship may not preserve her men in the same proportion as ours; and it would be extremely rash to suppose that this exception could always be produced, merely by the prophylactics and antiscorbutics we had on board. . The principal view of our expedition, the search after a southern continent within the bounds of the temperate zone, was fulfilled; we had even searched the frozen seas of the opposite hemisphere, within the antarctic circle, without meeting with that vast tract of land which had formerly been supposed to exist. At the same time, we had made another discovery important to science, that nature forms great masses of ice in the midst of the wide ocean, which are destitute of any saline particles, but have all the useful and salubrious qualities of the pure element. At other seasons we explored the Pacific Ocean between the tropics, and in the temperate zone; and there furnished geographers with new islands, naturalists with new plants and birds, and, above all, the friends of mankind with various modifications of human nature. In one extreme we saw, and not without compassion, the dull, hungry, deformed savages of Tierra del Fuego, incapable of guarding against the severities of their wretched climate, and having their mental faculties reduced to that miserable situation which places them next to brutes. In the other, the happier tribes of the Society Islands, beautifully formed, placed in a delightful climate, which supplies all their wants; sensible of the advantages of a well-ordered society, affectionate towards each other, and accustomed to gratify their senses, even till they lead to excesses. From the contemplation of these different characters, the advantages, the blessings which civilization and revealed religion have diffused over our part of the globe, will become more and more obvious to the impartial enquirer. He will acknowledge, with a thankful heart, that incomprehensible goodness which has given him a distinguished superiority over so many of his fellow-creatures, who follow the impulse of their senses, without knowing the nature or name of virtue; without being able to form that great idea of general order, which could alone convey to them a just conception of the Creator. Upon the whole, nothing appears more evident, than that the additions to the stock of human knowledge which have been made during this voyage, however considerable they may be when put in competition with what was known before, are of small moment when compared with the immense variety of unknown objects which, even in our present confined situation, are still within our reach, and which, for ages to come, will probably open new and extensive fields, where the human soul will have room to expatiate, and display its faculties with superior lustre.

__ ___ Vedi insieme l'uno e l'altro polo,

Le stelle vaghe e lor viaggio torto;

E vedi, 'l veder nostro quanto e corto!

Petrarca.

FINIS.