London: printed for E. Newbery, 1785.
Eighteenth Century Collections Online Text Creation Partnership (ECCO TCP). Ann Arbor, Michigan: University of Michigan Library 2008 September.
HAVING taken leave of the islands with which we were before acquainted in the southern hemisphere, we now directed our course to the northward, to explore coasts and countries hitherto unvisited by any English voyager, and but lately known to the navigators of other countries.
We took our departure from the Society Isles, as has already been said, on the 9th of December, 1777, steering N. by E. as near as the winds would let us, with mostly fine weather till the 20th, when in lat. 4.54. S. we were surrounded with land and sea weeds, and bodies of trees, which seemed to be but lately separated from their respective roots; but it was not till The 23d that we discovered land. On that day, in lat. 2. N. long. 203.15. E. after having crossed the line the day before, the man at the mast-head called out land, bearing N. E. distance between six and seven leagues. We instantly wore ship, and stood in for a fine bay, on which we found good anchorage in 48 fathom water. On viewing the island from the ships, there did not appear the least sign of an inhabitant; but near the shore there were shoals of sharks, and the sea seemed crusted over with sea-fowls, some of a very large size. The boats that had been sent out to reconnoitre returned in the evening with one large turtle each, and loaded with boobies and other tropical birds, that by hungry mariners are generally esteemed good eating. They likewise brought several sharks, which they found in such crowds, that they knocked them on the head with their oars.
On the 24th we changed our station, and anchored in 17 fathom water.
And on the 25th we kept Christmas in much mirth and festivity, the crew having plenty of provisions, and the Gentlemen plenty of turtle. The ships being safely moored, and the weather fine, but almost insupportably hot, the men were allowed the whole day to amuse themselves, and every one had a pint of brandy to make merry, and drink health to their friends in Old England.
In the evening, parties from both ships were invited to go a turtling, but none were pressed into that service, all were volunteers. On our landing, the crews went different ways; and in order to know where to meet, fires were made in separate directions; one fire for the Resolution's party, and one for that of the Discovery's. Our party before morning had turned more than 20 turtles, and had carried them on board; and when the boats were unloaded, returned for more. In the mean time, a fishing party were likewise sent out, and were no less successful than the turtlers; hut on this service a seaman had a very narrow escape. As he was helping to draw the seine, a shark made a chop at his arm, but fortunately caught only a piece of his shirt's sleeve, with which he made off.
The Resolution's turtlers had made a trip to their ship to unlade; but on the return of their boats to the island, one of their men was missing, who, tired with carrying a turtle of more than 100 weight in the heat of the day, had laid it down on the beech, and retired to a thicket, to shelter himself from the sun. Here he fell asleep, and as soon as he awoke, be endeavoured to recover his turtle, but in vain; he had entangled himself among the bushes, and in the evening, after a most painful search, he was found almost speechless through fatigue and want of refreshment.
All this day our people continued their diversion on the S. E. side of the
island; but On the 26th, about ten in the morning, Mr. B—y, Mr. E—r, and Mr.
P—k, with ten or twelve seamen in the cutter, having a good quantity of water on
board, and each man a pint of brandy, directed their course to the N. E.
quarter, and about noon arrived at a neck of land,
Under these apprehensions two seamen, Bartholomew Loremer and Thomas Trecher
were sent out in search of them, each carrying a gallon of water, with brandy
and other refreshments, in case they should meet with the Gentlemenn their way.
In a wild uncultivated country, over-run with bushes and close cover, the
reader, who has never been bewildered in a full-grown thicket after sport, can
have no idea of men's being lost in the short space of a few miles. So, however
it happened. The Gentlemen, invited by the mixed melody of the birds in the
woods, left these people as soon as they had properly stationed them,
The first enquiry they made, was, whether any of the company had been sent after them; and being answered in the affirmative, and that they were not yet returned, they could not help expressing their doubts whether they ever would return; adding their wishes at the same time, that no means might be omitted to endeavour their recovery.
It is natural for men, who have just experienced any signal deliverance, to feel
poignantly for the safety of others under the same critical circumstances. It
was therefore no small satisfaction to the sufferers, when they were told, that
every possible means would be tried for the poor men's relief; and to enable
those who were to be sent on that errand the better to direct their search, the
gentlemen described, as well as they could, the spot where they thought they
heard men halloo to one another about the dawn of day. There were now twenty of
the crew (seamen and marines) who had been dispatched from on board, for
recovering the gentlemen. These had orders to traverse the thickets in a body,
till they should find one or other of them, either living or dead; for, till the
gentlemen appeared, nothing could be concluded with certainty concerning them.
The majority were of opinion, that, if they had been alive, they most certainly
would have returned as soon as it was dark, as they could have no motive to
pursue their sport in the night; and it was by no means probable, that they
should be bewildered, because they might surely have found
Early in the morning of the next day, (the two men being still missing) the whole party assembled, and the plan of their proceeding was formed. By marching in lines at such a distance from each other, as to be within hearing, it was thought impossible to fail of finding the men, if living, or of discovering some traces of them, if dead: and they were to direct their line of march towards the spot where the sound of the voices was heard by the gentlemen.
After a diligent search of six hours, Bartholomew Loreman was discovered in a
most miserable condition, almost blinded by the venomous bites of vermin, added
to the scorching heat of the sun, and speechless for want of something to clear
his throat. He made signs for water, and water was given him. He had got out of
the thicket, and was wandering about upon the beech, without being sensible of
the miserable condition in which he was found. It fortunately happened, that a
boat from the Discovery had been sent round the point of land already mentioned,
and stationed near where the turtlers had been employed the
Loreman was judged in too dangerous a condition to admit of any delay; he was therefore sent off in the boat, and being put under the care of the Surgeon, soon recovered.
After this detail it was debated, whether to resign Trecher to his fate, or to
continue the search. The humanity of the officer, who had the command of the
party, prevailed. It was now about ten in the morning, of the 29th, when the
whole party, after taking some refreshment, set out to scour the thickets, and,
by hallooing, ringing of bells, beating of drums, and pursuing different
courses, determined he should hear them if he were alive. It was no easy task to
penetrate a trackless cover, over-grown with underwood, and abounding with
infects, of which the musquitoes were the least troublesome. But numbers make
that easy, which to individuals would be impracticable. They went on chearfully
at first; but, before a few hours were elapsed, even the gentlemen, who were
inspirited by their success in killing game, began to be tired, and it was
thought adviseable to rest and refresh
This was no small discouragement; and few had any relish to renew a labour attended with so much fatigue, and so little prospect of success.
The officers were alone inflexibly bent on the pursuit. The men, though they were
no less willing, were not all equally able to endure the fatigue; and some of
them were even ready to drop, before their dinner and their grog had revived
their spirits. The only expedient that now remained to be tried, was, that which
Trecher himself had projected, namely, to climb the highest tree that appeared
in view, in order to look for the hill which he pretended to have seen, and to
which it was thought probable that he might direct his course. This was no
sooner proposed than executed. In a moment a sailor was perched at the top of
every lofty tree in sight, and the high land descried, seemingly at no great
distance from the place where the party had dined. It was now agreed, to make
the best of their way to the eminence, but this proved not so easy a task as it
at first appeared to be. When they thought themselves just ready to mount, they
met with a lagoon that interrupted their progress; and coasting it along, they
discovered the skeleton of a creature that, by its length, appeared to be an
allegator. In viewing this narrowly, something like the track of some large
animal was observed to have passed it, and the high grass
The absence the whole night of the party sent out in search of him, having been reported to Capt. Cook, he had ordered two boats into the lagoon, to go different ways, to assist in the search; but being in the evening relieved from his anxiety, he recalled the boats, and gave orders to prepare for sailing.
We had now been off this island near 7 days, in which time we had taken more than 300 turtle, from 90 to 100 lb. weight on board. But tho' it seemed more than 60 leagues in circumference, there were not the smallest traces of any human being having ever been upon it before: and, indeed, should any people be so unfortunate as to be accidentally driven upon it, they could not possibly exist for any length of time. There are, it is true, many birds, and abundance of fish, but no visible means of allaying thirst, nor any vegetable that could supply the place of bread. On the few cocoa-trees upon the island, the number of which did not exceed thirty, very little fruit was found; and in general, what was found, was either not fully grown, or had the juice salt or brackish; so that a ship touching here, must expect nothing but fish and turtle; but not a drop of fresh water was to be found throughout the island.
On the 1st of January, 1778, about ten in the morning, we unmoored, and set sail, with the Resolution in company, directing our course N. by E. with a gentle breeze from the East.
To the island which we had just left, Capt. Cook gave the name of Christmas
Island, leaving in it a bottle, with a similar inscription to that cut on Omai's
house, the date only excepted. It lies
Early on the 2d of January, Christmas Island bore S. S. E. as far as the eye could carry, and as we were now clear of land, and proceeding with a prosperous gale, and had plenty of provisions on board, the men were allowed turtle to boil with their pork; which, however, in a few days was discontinued by the advice of the Surgeon, and turtle substituted in the room of every other kind of meat. This was found both healthful and nourishing, and was continued till within a few days of our arrival at another island, where we met with fresh provisions, and water equal to any we brought with us from the Society Isles.
On the 3d, the wind shifted W. S. W. and a storm came on, preceded by a louring
darkness, that presaged some violent convulsion; and soon after it broke forth
in thunder, lightning, wind, and rain, which in two hours increased to such a
violent degree, as no man on board had ever known the like. Fortunately for us,
its violence in a few hours abated; but in that little time the sea broke over
our quarter, and cleared the decks of every thing that was loose. Before noon,
the wind subsided, but the rain continued till evening, of which we made good
use. From the time of our leaving Ulietea to the present day, we had received no
fresh supply of water; and, though the still had been constantly at work, our
complement began already to run scanty. This afternoon, several indications of
land were observed;
It was, as has already been observed, several days, before he could perfectly
recollect all that passed in his mind, and all that he suffered in his person.
He confirmed Loreman's relation of what passed while they remained together;
but, in the morning of the 29th, when they agreed to part, his thoughts ran
chiefly on discovering some house or place of resort of the natives, as it ran
strongly in his mind, that an island of such extent as that appeared to be,
could not be wholly destitute of inhabitants. In pursuit of this idea, he
determined to make towards the hill or high land, which he had seen from the top
of the tree; and to observe the course of the sun for his guide, but he met with
many obstructions that retarded his progress. The reeds and the rough grass were
in many places so high and thick, that he was almost
Having now been 17 days at sea, without seeing land, On the 18th, a very severe storm arose, which blew with irrestible fury for some hours, and obliged us to clue up our main sheets, and scud bofore it, at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour; but before noon the wind died away, and a dead calm succeeded. Such is the variableness of the weather near the tropics.
On the 19th, being then in lat. 21.12. N. and long. 200.41. E. the man at the
mast-head called out, High land, bearing E. N. E. and in a very little time came
in sight of more land, apparently of an equal height with the former. As we
approached the windward island, it presented no very promising aspect, being
mountainous, and
About nine in the morning, it was seen the second time, at the distance of about seven or eight leagues. We were charmed with its appearance as we came near it, observing it to abound with rivers, and to exhibit a prospect so full of plenty, that we anticipated the pleasure we expected, by supposing ourselves already in possession of a most seasonable supply. We had been for several days reduced to the scanty allowance of a quart of water a-day, and that none of the best; and now that we saw, or thought we saw, whole rivers before us, our hearts were dilated with joy; yet we had still much to suffer. We found ourselves debarred from the thing we were most in want of for several days, by shoals and rocks that to us were impracticable. We coasted along the N. W. side of the island, sounding as we went, while the boats from both ships were employed in searching for some bay or harbour, where we might safely anchor. In the mean time, several canoes came from the shore with plantains and dried fish on board, who parted with what they had for any trifles that were offered them; and at first behaved with great civility, but could not be persuaded to venture on board. At five in the evening, we were two leagues from the shore, surrounded by Indians in their canoes, with hogs in abundance, some very large, which we purchased according to their size, for a spike or a ten-penny nail each.
While we remained at sea, no people on earth could be more friendly; but our
boats had no sooner landed, than a quarrel arose between the
This early act of severity was probably the means of saving many lives. The Indians dispersed immediately, carrying off the dead body with them. And the boats, not having made any discovery, returned to the ships, where they were taken on board, and secured till next morning.
On the 21st the boats were again sent out, but to as little purpose as before.
Little trade was this day carried on, as the natives seemed very shy. But, On
the 22d, the ships having found anchorage on the south-west side, they were no
sooner moored than they were again surrounded with a more numerous multitude of
islanders than before, who seemed to express the greatest astonishment at the
greatness of our ships; nor did it appear that they had ever seen an European
ship before, though they were not wholly unacquainted with the use of iron. Most
of their canoes were laden with hogs, plantains, bananoes and sweet potatoes,
which they readily exchanged chiefly for iron. Here the sailors were suffered to
make what purchases they pleased; only women were prohibited by Capt. Cook's
order, on the severest penalties.—This caution, which was undoubtedly dictated
by humanity, to prevent the introduction of a loathsome disease among an
innocent people,
In the afternoon the pinnace was ordered out, and the two Captains landed on the beach, where they were met by the Chiefs of the island, and more than 2000 of their subjects, not in a hostile manner, but in amity, exchanging presents, and establishing trade.
Capt. Cook made signs for water, and was conducted to a most delightful pool, so
conveniently situated for supplying the ships, that, had not the Resolution been
driven from her moorings by the violence of an easterly wind and strong current,
nothing could have exceeded our entertainment at this hospitable port. We met
with no obstruction in watering. These people merited our best commendations in
their commercial intercourse, never once attempting to cheat us, either ashore,
or along-side the ships. Some of them, indeed, at first betrayed a thievish
disposition; or rather they thought, that they had a right to every thing they
could lay their hands on; but we soon convinced them, that this conduct was not
to be suffered with impunity. One of our visitors, in the course of trade,
offered some fish-hooks to sell. He was observed to have a small parcel tied to
the string of one of them, which he separated with great care, and reserved for
himself. Being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and spoke something,
which we could not understand; at the same time saying it was bad, as if he did
not wish to answer any more questions about it. On seeing him so anxious to
conceal the contents, he was requested to open it, which he did with great
reluctance. They found that it contained a thin Page [unnumbered]
[illustration] [depiction of the people of the Sandwich Islands] A Man and Woman
of Sandwich Islands. p. 199.
On the 24th, one of their great men paid a visit to Capt. Clerke. He came off in
a double canoe, and like the King of the Friendly Islands, paid no regard to the
small canoes that lay in her way, but run against them, or over them, without
endeavouring in the least to avoid them. His attendants helped him into the
ship, and placed him on the gangway, where they stood round him, holding each
other by the hands; nor would suffer any one to come near him, but Capt. Clerke
himself. He was a young man, clothed from head to foot, and accompanied by a
young woman, supposed to be his wife. His name was said
On the 25th we were in readiness to fail, and, having lost sight of the Resolution, we imagined that, not being able to fetch her former station, she had bore away to another island, which had been seen to the N. W. distance about 10 or 12 leagues.
On the 26th we weighed, directing our course to the N. W. but about ten in the morning, the man at the mast-head descried the Resolution at a great distance, bearing S. by W. whereupon we instantly tacked, and stood S. by E. to join our Commodore. This being effected, we remained several days beating up, but in vain, to regain our former birth.
On the 29th we bore away to another lee island, named Oneeheow, which abounded
with hogs and fruit, and where the natives were equally hospitable with those
we had just left, and brought from the shore every kind of provision their
country produced; but, there being no water to be procured at a moderate
distance, and the reefs being dangerous, and the surf running high, Capt. Page
[unnumbered] [illustration] [depiction of the people of the Sandwich Islands] A
Man of the Sandwich Islands in a Mask. page 200.
The Captain had already exchanged several presents with the Chiefs of the island, and had, in particular, presented a Chief with two she-goats and a ram; and had received in return six large hogs, with a quantity of salt, an article which, began to be much wanted. He had likewise purchased all such necessaries for the ship's use, as the inhabitants could supply: and it was fortunate that he had so done, before the storm came on; for afterwards it would have been equally impossible for him to have recovered his station here, as he had found it to regain his former birth in the other harbour. Our boats, while the shore was accessible, were diligent in bringing on board the product of the island; so that, on the evening of The 1st of February we had more than 250 hogs on board, with salt in abundance, besides three months allowance of sweet potatoes, bananoes, plantains, sugar-cane, and other provisions.
Early in the morning on the 2d we weighed, and soon came in sight of the Resolution; and both ships left the island to pursue the voyage.
These islands, which lie between the latitude of 21.20. and 22.15. N. and long.
199.20. and 201.30. E. are not, in beauty and fertility, much inferior to the
Friendly Islands in the southern hemisphere, nor are the inhabitants less
ingenious or civilized. It is not a little astonishing, therefore, that they
should remain so long unknown to the Spaniards, as they lie, as it were, in the
midway between Manilla and the Western Coasts of New
Every island in this group, of which there are more than we could count, appeared to be well peopled. In that which we first visited, called by the natives Ottooi, it was no uncommon thing to see between two and three thousand of the natives assemble on the beech, when any thing was to be shewn that excited their curiosity. And there we learned the names of four other islands, viz. Woahoo, Oneeheow, Oreehowe, and Tahoora; the last inhabited by birds, of which there were, as we were told, incredible numbers.
The men in these islands are of the middle size, of a dark complexion, not much
tattowed, but of a lively open countenance. They were no otherwise clothed than
decency required; and what they had on appeared to be their own manufacture, of
which there were various fabricks, and of a variety of colours. Some were made
with borders exactly resembling coverlets, and others appeared like printed
cottons; and, besides cloth, they had many other articles which shewed that they
had artificers among them not wanting in ingenuity. One peculiarity we observed
among the men, and that was, in the cut of their hair, which they trimmed up to
a ridge along their heads, in form like what, in horses manes, is called
hogging. Others again wore it long, plaiting it in tails, which hung below the
waist; and these we took for marks of distinction among them. Add to
The women in general had shock hair, which they were at great pains to ornament. They had large holes in their ears, that, filled as they were, with most beautifully coloured shells made up in clusters, served for jewels, and had no bad effect. Their head-dress consisted of wreaths of flowers, decorated with feathers chiefly red; and having, in general, lively piercing black eyes, white teeth, small features, and round faces, were not a little inviting, had not Chpt. Cook's severe prohibition put a check to the predominant passion of our men.
Their dress, upon the whole, was more decent than that of the men; and few were
without necklaces and bracelets, of which they seemed very fond, and for which
our strings of beads were well
Their language differed but little from that of every other people we had lately visited; and we soon learnt to converse, so as to make ourselves understood.
Their manufactures the people freely sold for nails, hatchets, scissars, knives, or iron instruments of any kind; glass bowls was a valuable article; so were beads, buttons, looking-glasses, china-cups, and in short, any of our European commodities.
Their weapons of war consisted—Of spears twelve feet long, curiously polished, and tapered; about an inch and half in diameter at top, and shod with bearded bone, about a foot in length at the lower end—Of daggers of a particular make, with which they could stab with both ends—Of bows and arrows, which seemed rather calculated for diversion for boys, than for killing enemies; their arrows being a slender reed, only about half a yard long, shod with wood—Of small battle-axes, most ingeniously fabricated of stone and wood, and neatly wrought, as were their implements of every kind—Of saws made of sharks teeth, with which they cut up the dead bodies they prepare for meat—And of slings, with which they threw stones with great force, to a great distance, but with no certain aim.
Their canoes were long and narrow; not more than two feet wide in the middle, from whence they tapered to both ends. They were strengthened by cross bars, which served both for feats and stretchers, and had small out-riggers, to prevent over-setting.
That they had some knowledge of iron before we landed among them is certain; but
how they
Except the sugar-cane, which appeared indigenous to these islands, and which were rare in those on the other side the line, their produce was much the same with that of the Friendly Isles, only the cocoa-nuts were by no means so large, nor in such great plenty here as at the Friendly Isles.
Wood was not to be purchased in plenty, nor did we stand much in need of that article.
Hogs, dogs, ducks, and poultry, were here in greater abundance than on the other side the line; but their plantations were not so beautifully ranged, nor so well cultivated. The houses here are warmer, as the air is colder. They are built tent-fashion, and are covered from top to bottom. Their food consists of the fruits of the earth, and of animal food, of which there was great plenty, if dogs made a part of it; nor was there any want of fish, nor of instruments to catch them.
There seems, indeed, a remarkable conformity between these islands and those of
the opposite hemisphere, not only in their situations, but in their number, and
in their manners, customs, religious, ceremonies, arts, and manufactures of the
inhabitants; though it can scarce be imagined, that, as the globe is now
constituted, they could ever have any communication, being at more than 2000
From observing this general conformity among the tropical islanders, some have been led to believe, that the whole middle region of the earth was once one entire continent; and that what is now the Great South Pacific Ocean, was, in the beginning, the Paradise of the World: but whoever would wish to hear more on this subject, will do well to read Burnet's Theory of the Earth, where, if they do not find arguments solid enough to convince their reason, they will meet with reasons sufficiently plausible to amuse their fancy. But we must now take leave of these islands, tho' we shall have occasion to mention them again with less commendation.
Capt. Cook, the short time he remained at Atooi, visited the morais on the island, which formerly had been most magnificent structures, but were now much in decay, but still preserved all the appearances of human sacrifices; of which there is not a doubt, any more than of their eating the flesh of their enemies, which they call savoury meat.
On the 3d of February, the day after we took our departure, we had heavy squalls, but not so violent as to force us to part company.
On the 4th, it cleared up, and we pursued our course E. N. E. having pleasant weather, and a favouring gale.
On the 5th, our men had pickled pork served instead of their ordinary allowance,
one pound per man a-day, with a pound and a half of yams, instead of bread; and
this was continued to them
Nothing material occurred till The 9th, when there appeared the usual signs of land, but we saw none, and continued our course till The 13th, when we tacked and stood N. N. W. lat. 30. long. 200. E. But, On the 14th, we stood again N. by E. with a light breeze. During this interval of fine weather, our sail-makers were employed in getting up and reviewing the sails, when it was found that they were in a miserable condition, being eaten through by the rats in a hundred places. While they were employed in repairing them, our other artificers had work enough to do; for it was made a point to suffer none to remain idle, when the business of navigating the ship did not require their immediate attendance. The course we were now steering we continued with little or no variation, except what was occasioned by the shifting of the winds, till the 21st, when in lat. 39. long. 209. E. we shorttened sail, and steered N. N. W. the whole night, having had strong signs of land to the Eastward the whole day; but no land coming in sight, we again renewed our course, and so continued till The 26th, when a most dreadful storm arose, with such a swell, that though we were not more than half a mile from the Resolution, we frequently lost sight of her amidst the heavy seas. In this gale, both ships suffered considerably in their sails and rigging, it being impossible to hand them before we were surprised by the tempest. We were now in lat. 43.17. and in long. 221.9. and were attended by seals, sea-lions, man-of-war birds, Port Egmont hens, shags, and sea-gulls, which were strong indications of land.
On the morning of the 27th, the wind abated but the swell still continued from the Southward and we proceeded under close reefed top-sails til about ten in the morning, when we shook out the reefs, and made all the sail we could, in company with the Resolution.
March the 1st, the wind died away, and being in lat. 44.49. and long. 228. E. we sounded with 180 fathom, but found no bottom. We now began to feel the effects of an alteration in the climate. From intense heat, it became piercing cold; and our men, who despised their Magellan jackets, while within the temperate climates, now first began to find the comfort of them in these Northern regions.
On the morning of the 2d, some parts of the sea seemed covered with a kind of
slime, and myriads of small sea animals were seen swimming about, which they
did with equal ease upon their backs, sides, or bellies; and as they varied
their position with respect to the light, they emitted the brightest colours of
the most precious gems. Sometimes they appeared quite pellucid, at other times
assuming various tints of blue, from a pale sappharine to a deep violet colour,
which were frequently mixed with a ruby or opaline redness, and glowed with a
strength sufficient to illuminate the vessel and water; these colours appeared
most vivid, when the glass into which these animalcula were placed, was held to
a strong light, but had only a brownish cast when the animals had subsided to
the bottom. With candle-light, the colour was chiefly a beautiful pale green;
and in the dark they had a faint appearance of glowing fire. Mr. Anderson
supposed them a new species of animalcula, which have a share in producing that
On the 5th, being moderate weather, we sounded, and at 56 fathoms found bottom, loamy sand and shells. At six in the evening, we shortened sail, and stood all night S. one half W. with the water as white as milk.
On the 6th, both ships wore and stood N. by E. shortening sail in the evening, and standing all night to the Southward.
On the 7th, we made the land. Cape Blanco, the Westernmost known point of California, bearing E. N. E. then distant about 8 or 9 leagues. It appeared mountainous, and covered with snow. This day the gentlemen in the gun-room dined on a fricassee of rats, which they accounted a venison feast; and it was a high treat to the sailors, whenever they could be lucky enough to catch a number sufficient to make a meal.
On the 8th, we wore ship, and stood N. E. by E. lat. 44.23. long. 233.5. E. We had heavy squalls, with snow and rain. We continued working off land, making little or no way to windward. In the evening, we close reefed our top-sails, and within half an hour could not shew an inch of sail, except fore and mizen stay-sails. The storm continued all night, and part of the next day, without the least abatement.
Early in the morning of the 9th, saw the Resolution to windward, and at eight came in sight of Cape Blanco, bearing N. by W. distant about three leagues. At ten tacked ship, and stood off land, both ships in company, lat. 43.10. long. 232.4. E.
On the 10th, both ships stood again for the land, which we could see at a great
distance. At six in the evening, the land being distant about a
On the 11th, she answered our signals, and we were soon in company; but the sea running mountains high, and the wind increasing a strong gale, we stood N. by E. the wind at E. by N. and about two in the afternoon, the Cape bore N. E. by E. distant about six leagues. Here the wind being somewhat abated, and the sea having changed its colour, we sounded at 160 fathom, but no bottom. Both ships stood again W. S. W. all night with little wind, but great swells from the Eastward, lat. 43.39. long. 231.19.
On the 12th, light winds, which continued all the morning with snow and sleet. At two in the afternoon, both ships stood S. by W. with a stiff breeze. At six wore ship, and stood N. wind E. N. E. At ten, course N. N. E. wind W. by S. and so continued all night, lat. 43.2. long. 231.57.
On the 13th, about eight in the morning, we wore ship, and stood W. by S. heavy rain, and snow. At noon split the mizen top-mast stay-sail. At night, course W. S. W. wind variable. Lat. 43.32. long. 230.52.
On the 14th, at six in the morning, wore ship, and stood N. by E. wind N. W. by W. Strong gale, with snow and rain. About three in the afternoon, the wind abated. Stood for the land, then distant 6 or 7 leagues, bearing N. E. by E. lat. 43.9. long. 231.55.
On the 15th, wore ship, and stood N. half W. the wind E. N. E. all the morning.
In the afternoon, heavy squalls, with rain. About four, split the main
top-sail. At six, close reefed the top-sails, and stood all night N. N. E. with
heavy
On the 16th, it cleared up, and the wind being moderate, we made sail N. ½ E. the wind at W. S. W. At ten in the morning, finding the water to change colour, we sounded at 17 fathom, and looking a-head, saw a large reef, not above two cables length before us. We fired a gun as signal to the Resolution, and had just time and room to escape the danger. Had it been night, in two minutes we must all have perished. We tacked, and stood to the Southward till the morning of The 17th, when we came in sight of land, bearing N. E. by E. distance eight or nine leagues, high, and whited over with snow. The weather was this day so altered, that the gentlemen who delighted in the sport, diverted themselves in the boats with shooting ducks, shags, sea-larks, and gulls; and next morning, The 18th, we continued to steer along shore, the land not more than three miles distant; saw no inhabitants, but very large trees, and bleak mountains covered with snow. About twelve at noon we hauled upon a wind, and stood W. by N. wind S. W. by S. As we found the coast rugged with high rocks above water, we suspected other rocks below. We therefore kept at a convenient distance from the land, and opened upon several fine inlets and close harbours, but no entrance for ships of burden. Lat. 44.49. long. 231.50.
On the 19th, made sail early in the morning, and stood N. N. E. coasting it along
shore, the
On the 20th, the weather still continuing fine, we pursued our course N. N. E. with light winds from the S. E. till two in the afternoon, when the clouds began to darken, and the rain pour down in torrents. At five it blew a stiff gale, and at night a fog arose, when we soon lost sight of the Resolution. At ten it blew a hurricane. We close reefed our top-sails, lowered our top-gallant yards, and stood W. S. W. wind S. firing guns, and hoisting lights as signals to the Resolution; but not being answered, we lay to till morning, with the ship's head to the South, lat. 45.22. long. 231.42.
On the 21st, as soon as it was day-light, we saw the Resolution bearing N. N. W. distant about four miles. We made sail, and soon came up with her: the wind abating, we pursued our course N. one-half W. and before noon, lost sight of land, as it trended to the East. About four in the afternoon, the weather altered, and a heavy snow came on, which soon filled the decks, the flakes being such as no man on board had ever seen before, and as broad as a small saucer. Before it was dark it turned to rain, and so continued with gusts of wind during the night.
On the 22d, we came again in sight of land, bearing N. by E. distant about five
or six leagues, covered with snow, and abounding with trees of an immense
height; as we neared it, we observed several smokes far up the country; but
before we reached the shore, a sudden storm came on, more violent than any we
had yet met with on this tempestuous coast. Before we had time to hand
On the 23d in the morning the wind abated, and the weather cleared up. We made sail to the Southward; but before dark it again began to blow with heavy rain. We stood all night with the ship's head S. one-half W. with starboard tacks on board. No observation.
On the 24th we tacked ship and stood N. N. E. the wind at N. W. by N. a steady breeze; we shook out our reefs and made sail. Such and so variable was the weather on Drake's New Albion coast. From a hard gale, which increased to a hurricane, not being able to shew an inch of sail for several hours, the sea running to a tremendous height, the ship rolling till the yard-arms almost reached the water, it all at once cleared up, moderate and fine gales took place, and so continued the whole day. We were now by observation in lat. 47.25. long. 230.1. As night approached the clouds began to lour, and to threaten another storm: but except some snow and hail which fell in the night, nothing remarkable happened till The 25th, when a thick fog arose, and we lost sight of the Resolution; but before night we were again in company. About six in the evening it came on to blow hard with heavy showers; we wore ship and stood to the Southward, the rain continuing the whole night.
On the 26th, at five in the morning, we had a heavy fall of snow, which lasted
four hours, with piercing winds the whole day. About ten we bore away, and stood
N. N. W. the wind at N. E. In the evening we tacked ship and
On the 27th, at six in the morning, stood W. by N. with a stiff breeze. At ten it became very heavy and dark. We stood N. by E. the wind shifted to E. by N. and a calm succeeded. But about six in the evening the wind freshened, and before we could hand the canvas, split the fore-top-sail.
Early on the 28th, it blowing very hard, we close-reefed our top-sails, and stood N. N. E. the wind at E. This day we saw three men of war birds, two Port Egmont hens, several seals, and sea-lions, with some whales. Lat. 49.6. long. 228.18.
On the 29th, at two in the morning, it still continued to blow very hard. We
tacked, and stood S. S. W. till seven in the morning, when the weather cleared
up, and the wind rather abated. We shook out our reefs, and made sail N. by E.
with a light breeze from E. by N. At ten the man at the mast-head saw land,
bearing from E. S. E. to W. N. W. distance five or six leagues. At half after
one, P. M. we bore away N. E. by E. for a bay, which we thought we saw to the
Eastward. As we approached it, we observed several smokes and fires a
considerable way within land. At length, after a series of the most tempestuous
weather that any ships ever experienced for so long a time, we discovered an
inlet, the mouth of which was not more than two miles over; in which we entered,
and found it a sound, which narrowed as we advanced, though it still continued
of a considerable depth. About seven in the evening we anchored in ninety-seven
fathom water, and was presently joined by the Resolution. We made signs for
Early in the morning of the 30th, the boats were armed and manned, and both Captains proceeded to examine the Sound, in order to find a convenient place to refit the ships, which had suffered materially in the violent gales, which for the last twenty days they had been combating, at the hazard of being hourly dashed to pieces upon the rocks, or stranded upon the shores.
In their progress they were fortunate enough to discover a cove, the most
convenient that could be wished; the entrance of which was about two cables
length, bounded by high land on each side, and furnished with wood and water
(now much wanted) so conveniently situated, that both could be taken on board at
less than a cable's length from the shore; but, though now within the distance
of four miles, it was four o'clock in the evening before we could get the ships
properly moored, owing to the uncertainty of the weather, and the violent gusts
to which this coast is subject. All this while the Indians behaved peaceably,
and apparently with much
On the 1st of April, about four in the evening, there entered the cove a large canoe, in which were thirty armed Indians, who, on their first appearance, began a war-song, and when they had finished, took to their paddles, and rowed round the ships, having first stript themselves of their clothing, except one man, who stood upright in the vessel, delivering an oration, of which not a man on board could understand a word. They paddled round the ships several times, as if led by curiosity; but did not offer to molest any of the workmen, nor did they offer to trade. But all hands being instantly ordered under arms, these new visitors were seen to clothe themselves as before, and to make towards the ships. The Orator made not the least hesitation, but mounted the ship's side, and accosted the Captain with much civility, and after receiving some presents, and stopping a little while to observe the artificers, he took a very polite leave, descended to his boat, and was landed on the opposite shore of the Sound.
On the 3d, a large body of Indians were seen paddling along the Sound, mostly
armed with
The men were of an athletic make, very rough to appearance, but more civilized than from their aspect there was reason to expect. To iron they gave the name of te-tum-miné, and to other metals ché-à-poté.
On the 5th, the water, which was excellent, was so conveniently situated, that by erecting a stage, and constructing a spout, we could convey it in casks into the ships without farther trouble. This facilitated the labour of the waterers, and shortened our stay, as wood was conveyed on board with very little more trouble.
On the 6th it blew a storm, and the tide came rolling in at an alarming rate; it presently rose eight or nine feet higher than usual, and drifted several of our materials from the shore, which we never could recover; and at nine in the morning the Discovery drifted very near the Resolution, and very narrowly escaped being bulged.
On the 7th, the artificers again resumed their labour. The natives continued their visits, and besides fish, furs, and venison, brought bladders of oil, which were greedily purchased by the men. With this they made sauce for their salt-fish, and no butter in England was ever thought half so good.
During our stay here, which was but very short, owing to the time lost in making the land, and the advanced season of the year, no people could be more obliging; they were ready to accompany the gentlemen, who delighted in shooting, in their excursions, and to shew them the different devices they made use of to catch and to kill their game; they sold them their masks, their calls, and their gins, and made no secret of their methods of curing the skins, with which they carried on a traffic with occasional visitors; in short, a more open and communicative people does not live under the sun. They have, besides sea-fowl in abundance, swans, eagles, and a variety of other land-fowl, of which we had never seen the species. Nor were their fishermen more reserved than their hunters; they pointed out the haunts of the different sorts of fish, and they were not averse to helping their new acquaintance to compleat their lading, whenever they had been unsuccessful in filling their boats.
They had not hitherto discovered any disposition to pilfer; but on the 10th day,
after our arrival, several of them being on board, and our people having no
suspicion of their honesty, one of them watched his opportunity to slip into the
great cabin, and carry off the Captain's watch; which being soon missed, all the
Indians on board were seized, their boats secured and searched; and at length it
was found hid in a box on board
Being in great want of masts, most of those we brought out with us being sprung,
our carpenters were sent into the woods to cut down such trees as they should
find fit for their purpose. This they did without the least interruption from
any of the inhabitants. They found trees from 100 to 150 feet high, without a
knot, and measuring from 40 to 60 feet in circumference. In these trees the
eagles build their nests. When they had cut down what best suited their purpose,
the great difficulty was to bring them to the ships; and in this labour they
were assisted by the natives. It was now their spring, and
April 22. This morning we were visited by a large body of Indians, who had come from a great distance with furs, and other articles of trade. These were warmly clothed with cloaks of valuable furs, that reached down to their ancles; and among them was a stately youth, to whom the rest paid great respect. Him our Captain invited on board, which he at first declined; but after shewing him some axes, glass bowls, looking-glasses, and other articles that excited his curiosity, he suffered himself to be handed into the ship, where he staid some time, admiring every thing he saw. While these continued to trade, it was remarked, that no other Indians came in sight; but they had hardly left the ship, when another body of Indians appeared, more than double the number of the former, who hemmed them all into the cove, and stript them of every thing they had about them, and then came and traded with us.
At the same time a chief, who had attached himself to Capt. Cook, came on board
to take his leave, and received a present, for which in return he presented a
beaver-skin of much greater value. This called upon the Captain to make a
considerable addition to his present, with which the chief was so pleased, that
he pulled off his beaver-skin cloak, and laid it at his feet. Struck with this
instance of generosity, the Captain fetched him a
On the 26th, having finished the repairs of the ships, we began to prepare for
our departure; the tents were ordered to be brought on board, the astronomers
observatory, and what live-stock we had yet left; and as the last service to be
performed, we cut grass for their subsistence, which we were fortunate enough
to find in plenty, and to have a pretty good time to make it into hay. We also,
by the assistance of Mr. Nelson, whose business, as has already been observed,
was to collect the vegetable and other curious productions of the countries
through which we passed, were enabled to stock ourselves with a large
proportion of culinary plants, which was of infinite service to us in our more
northerly progress. And now having all things in readiness we began to tow out
of the cove into the Sound, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of King George's
Sound, and with a light breeze and clear weather to proceed on our voyage: but
we had scarce reached the Sound, when a violent gust from E. S. E. threw us into
the utmost confusion. All our boats were out, our decks full of lumber, and
night coming on dark and foggy, our danger was equal to any we had hitherto met
with in the course of the voyage; though an especial Providence seemed to attend
us, and to interpose in our favour: for by this storm a leak was discovered in
the Resolution, which, had it been calm weather, would probably have proved
fatal to the crew. Having cleared the Sound, we shaped our course to the
Westward, and so continued till day-light, when, seeing nothing of the
Resolution, we shortened sail; and before noon she came in sight, seemingly in
distress. The storm continuing,
The cove, in which we anchored, we found to lie in 49 deg. 33 min. N. and in 233
deg. 16 min. E. but whether the Ruffian discoveries had reached so far, we
could not be able to determine: that the inhabitants were no strangers to the
use of iron and other metals was, as has already been observed, visible on our
first approach; but by their manner of using what they possessed, it was not
easy to discover from what quarter it came. In the situation we were in, we did
not think it safe to venture far into the country, having no spare hands to
attend us. Of their houses we saw but few; and of their manner of living we know
but little. That they eat the Page [unnumbered] [illustration] [depiction of the
people of the Soolka Sound] A Man and Woman of Soolka Sound. p. 223. 224.
We saw no plantations which exhibited the least trace of knowledge in the cultivation of the earth; all seemed to remain in a pure state of nature; shrubs there were in the woods that put forth blossoms, and trees that promised in time to bring forth fruit; but except some currant bushes, wild rasberries and junipers, we saw none bearing fruit that were known to any but Mr. Nelson.
The men were not ill made, but they disfigured themselves with grease and coarse
paint; they were of a dark copper-colour, with lank black
The women are much more delicate than the men, and dress in cloaks curiously woven with the hair of wild beasts, intermixed with the most beautiful furs. We saw but few of them during our stay, and those who came in sight were rather in years; they were, however, much fairer than the men; and even fairer than many of the men we had on board. Their employment seems chiefly confined at home. We saw none of them employed in fishing, nor did we meet any of them in the woods. Besides the care of their children, and the manufacturing and making the clothing, they may probably assist in curing and preparing the skins, with which these people certainly carry on a traffic with strangers; though of that trade, for want of understanding their language, we could not sufficiently inform ourselves. Be that as it may, when we left the harbour, we had more than 300 beaver skins on board, besides other less valuable skins, of foxes, racoons, wolves, bears, deer, and several other wild animals; for dogs excepted, we saw no other domestic creatures about them.
On May the 1st, in the morning, the weather being fine, we spoke with the
Resolution, who informed us of the danger they were in of foundering in the
late gale, by a leak, which increased so fast upon them, that it baffled the
utmost efforts
We were now in high spirits, not dreaming of the hardships we had yet to suffer, and we pursued our course at a great rate. Before night we were in lat. 54.44. N. and in long. 224.44. E. with whole flocks of sea-fowl flying over our heads; among which were strings of geese and swans, all flying to the southward. We had other indications of land, and on The 2d we came in sight of a high mountain, being then in lat. 57.3. and in long. 224.7. E. This mountain Capt. Cook named Mount Edgecomb.
On the 3d, at half an hour after four in the morning, Mount Edgecomb, bore S. 54.
E. a large inlet N. 50. E. distant six leagues; and the most advanced point of
the land to the N. W. lying under a very high peeked mountain, which obtained
the name of Mount Fair Weather, bore N. 52. W. This inlet was called Cross
Sound, as being first seen on that day, so marked in our calendar. At noon the
lat. was 58.22. and the long. 220.55. We continued our course to the
north-westward as the land trended, till the 10th, when we opened on a very high
island, to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Kaye Island, in honour of his
friend the Rev. Dr. Kaye, Subalmoner to his Majesty. A point shoots out from
the main towards this island, to which the Captain
On the 11th we had a flask calm, which lasted for the space of four hours, during which all hands were employed, officers as well as men, in fishing, shooting, or chasing the seals, and sea-lions that played about the ships. Great quantities of fine cod were caught, which furnished a high treat to both ships companies; and some docks, sea-larks, and four sea-parrots, were killed by the fowlers. In the evening a fresh breeze sprang up, and we coasted along shore, but saw no inhabitants, though many fires were observed in the night within land. In our course we passed a bay, named by Capt. Cook Comptrollers Bay. Lat. 60.15. long. 215.15.
On the 12th we hauled up to double a cape, to which our Commodore gave the name
of Cape Hinchinbroke, and saw the land trending very much to the northward.
About 3, A. M. we tacked, steering N. N. W. and at nine in the morning, opened a
large strait, the entrance of which appeared to be about four miles. About four
in the afternoon we entered the mouth of the strait, and met a strong current
that set to the southward to oppose our progress; having a stiff breeze, and the
wind much in our favour, we with difficulty stemmed the tide, and before six in
the evening, the Resolution opened a close harbour
They had some instruments for fishing, which we did not observe among the more southerly Indians; such as harpoons, and gigs, all of which they were very ready to part with, as well as their clothing, of which, though valuable to us, they made but little account. These were chiefly purchased by the sailors for glass beads, who found them warmer, and better adapted to the climate than any of their other clothing. They had spears also, and lances headed with iron, very neatly manufactured, and knives, which they kept as bright as silver; but these they refused to exchange for any thing we offered.
In the morning of the 13th, we weighed, and pursued our course to the northward
up the strait all day, with the pleasing hope of having found the passage of
which we were in search. In our way we passed several very fine rivers that
emptied their waters into that which we were now exploring. About four in the
afternoon, we came to an anchor in 18 fathom water, and were surrounded with
Indians who came to plunder; but finding us on our guard, they sneaked off
without their booty. Here, being safely moored just opposite to a small rivulet
of excellent water, the boats were ordered out to fill the empty casks, and the
carpenters from both ships were set to work to find out the leak in the
Resolution; and after a most painful search, a hole was discovered in the ship's
side, eaten quite through by the rats; which, by
On the 14th, while we were employed on this necessary service, we were visited by crowds of Indians, persuading us to proceed; but our pinnace being ordered out, with boats to attend her, in order to examine the strait, it was found to be only an inlet, through which there was no passage for ships or other vessels to any considerable distance. Lat. 60.53.
To our great disappointment, therefore, after continuing here eight days, during which time every part of the sound had been examined, and the country for several miles round reconnoitred, we took leave of this sound (to which Capt. Cook gave the name of Prince William's Sound) to the great joy of the ships companies, who with working the ships up one day and down another, as wind and tide served, were almost worn down with hard labour, though none were sick; nor did any accident happen to any, except to William Austin, who unfortunately had his leg broke by lifting an anchor out of the boat to launch it overboard, and being entangled in the buoy-rope, went down with it in 22 fathom water, but came up again without any hurt, and was afterwards, by the care of the Surgeon, perfectly cured.
On the 16th, when the weather, which had been foggy, cleared up, we found ourselves surrounded by land on every side, and sheltered in a nook, called Snug Corner Bay, and a snug corner it certainly was.
On the 17th, Mr. Gore, from the Resolution, was sent to examine the northern arm
of the inlet, Page [unnumbered] [illustration] [depiction of the people of
Prince William's Sound] A Man and Woman of Prince William's Sound. p. 230.
On the 20th, having the weather fine and the wind fair, we returned to sea, not by the same channel, but by one more to the westward than that by which we entered. It was separated from the other by an island, extending 18 leagues, in the direction of North-east and South-west, to which the Commodore gave the name of Montague Island; and the intermediate islands, because of their verdures, he called Green Islands.
Early on the 21st a storm came on, which obliged us to lay to with the ship's head to the eastward; but in the afternoon it abated, and about five we came up with the southernmost promontory [Cape Elizabeth] which we had seen the day before, and opened on a fine bay, which trended full to the westward, with very high land on both sides.
In the morning of the 22d we tacked, and stood to the westward, and still saw the land trend very much to the southward. Lat. 59.7. long. 208.26.
On the 23d, the weather being clear and pleasant, and there being little or no wind, the boats were ordered out, and all hands were employed in fishing, except the Gentlemen, who preferred the diversion of shooting.
On the 24th a stiff breeze sprung up, attended with very heavy squalls, with snow and rain, in which we carried away our main top-gallant-mast in the slings, and received other damage in our sails and rigging. This day we passed a deal of land to the westward, which appeared to us like islands, (among which was that called Cape Hermogenes,) mostly very high; we continued steering as the land trended, and examining every bay and inlet as we passed along. Lat. 58.26.
On the 25th we altered our course, to N. by W. the land trending away to N. E. high and mountainous. At noon we passed some large islands, bearing from W. S. W. to N. W. and which obtained the name of Barren Isles, and soon after came in sight of a lofty promontory, whose elevated summit, forming two exceedingly high mountains, was seen above the clouds. To this promontory Capt. Cook gave the name of Cape Douglas, in honour of his good friend Dr. Douglas, Canon of Windsor.
On the 26th, at 3 A. M. we perceived one continued chain of mountains, to the highest of which was given the name of Mount St. Augustine; and saw two very high burning mountains at a considerable distance. We kept steering to the northward, as we saw no land a-head, by reason of a great fog; but as soon as the fog cleared up, we found ourselves in the entrance of a vast river, supposed to be about four miles over, with a strong current setting to the southward, lat. 59.8.
On the 27th we found the river to widen as we advanced, and the land to flatten.
We continued under an easy sail all day and the following night, sounding as we
advanced from 30 to 40 fathom, shelly bottom and white sand. We were once more
flattered with having found the passage, 〈◊〉
On the 28th, in the morning, we sounded at 24 fathom, the tide still setting strong to the southward at the rate of five and six knots an hour; but the wind dying away, the signal was made for casting anchor, when both ships came to in 26 fathom water; but the Resolution expecting to come to with her small stream anchor, let the whole run out, and lost both anchor and hauser, besides the ship's grapnel in looking for it. About 8 at night, the signal was made to weigh and sail; but at ten the current ran so strong, that both ships were again obliged to cast anchor in 24 fathom, bottom same as before. It was now light all night, and we could perceive the river to make N. N. W. very rapid. lat. 60.5.
On the 29th we made sail with a fresh wind, and advanced apace, but on trying the water we found a great alteration from salt to fresh. This day we were visited by several Indians, who brought skins of wolves, foxes, squirrels, deer, and some few beaver, which they exchanged for trifles. In the night we observed they made large fires; but the flames from the two burning mountains seemed to darken their light. We were now close under them, and the roaring they made was infinitely more terrifying than the most tremendous thunder. They are of an immense height, and rise in the form of sugar-loaves, and bore N. and S. of each other, and are called by the natives, Ea-neb-kay. We found regular soundings all this day, till opening into a large wide extended bay, the water shallowed, and we cast anchor in nine fathom water, brown sand and shells as before.
On the 30th, the boats were ordered out, and after a fruitless search to find a passage, sounding from two to four fathom, with the water brackish, they returned in the morning, and were taken on board. In the evening, they renewed their labour, sounding to the north eastward, as the day before they had sounded in the opposite direction.
On the 31st, the Resolution plyed higher up, and came to an anchor in 16 fathom
water, and found the ebb already begun. It ran only three knots an hour, and
fell upon a perpendicular 22 feet. Here they saw an opening between the
mountains, and were in doubt whether the opening did not take an easterly
direction through the above opening; or whether that opening was only a branch
of it, and that the main channel continued its northern direction. Next day Mr.
Bligh, the master, reported, that he had found the inlet contracted to the
breadth of one league by low land, through which it continued its northerly
direction; that he proceeded three leagues through this narrow part, which he
found navigable for the largest ships; but the water, as it ran down, fresh. He
landed on an island, that, it should seem, divided this main channel, and a
branch that had an easterly course, upon which he found current bushes, with the
fruit already (June) set; and some other fruit-trees unknown to him. About three
leagues beyond this, he observed another separation in the eastern chain of
mountains, but still thought the main channel preserved its northern direction.
To get a nearer view of the eastern branch, the Resolution weighed, and plyed
up before high water; but the wind being contrary, he was obliged to cast
anchor, and having dispatched two boats to make observations, and examine the
tides, they found
When we arrived, we found a number of wretched huts, with women and children, old
men and dogs, who at first sight of us, were more frightened than their masters,
hanging their tails, and sneaking away. One of these Mr. Law, our Surgeon,
purchased. These huts consisted of nothing but long poles, rudely constructed
into the form of a hovel, and covered over with heathy earth. For a door, they
had a hole just large enough to creep in at, which, in cold weather, they close
with a kind of faggot. Their inner apartments were holes or pits dug in the
earth, and divided like stalls in a stable. Their furniture we did not take the
pains to survey. We saw some bladders full of blubber or fat, hanging about, and
some skins of beasts; also, dried fish in plenty. We likewise saw several wooden
utensils, besides their arms; and we saw quantities of salt in wooden troughs.
They had dried flesh, too, probably the remains of their winter provisions,
which we understood they eat raw, and some of which they offered us for dinner.
In these huts, or holes, they burn no fire; but in the winter they shut
themselves up close, and have lamps, which they continually keep burning: for
here, during the winter months, they scarce ever see the sun. We were not a
little surprised at the sight of some of their children, who were as fair, and
their skins as white, as those of many children in England; their dark coppery
complexion is therefore owing to their anointing and greasing their children
when they are young, and exposing them to all weathers while they have light,
and shutting them in their smoaky caverns when it is dark. We found little or no
difference between
The 4th, being his Majesty's birth-day we kept as a day of rejoicing.
On the 5th, we passed the burning mountains, and the wind dying away, we cast
anchor, and shooting and fishing now took place of watching and hard labour.
While the crews were pursuing their sport, two canoes approached the ships, with
more than forty strangers, who were differently clothed from those Indians we
had hitherto seen in this latitude. They brought with them curiosities of
various kinds and shapes; also great quantities of skins of seals, wolves, deer,
black
The 6th, a breeze sprang up, and we cleared the strait, to the unspeakable joy of the sailors, who, during the whole time from our entrance till our return, worked with incredible labour, anchoring and weighing as in the former sound, just as the winds and the tide afforded opportunity. During our passage, we had frequent interviews with the natives, who, the nearer we approached the shore, were, as we have observed, better clothed, and shewed some manufactures of their own, and of other nations; and were in possession of a greater variety of skins than those within land, which were strong indications of a foreign trade; but by what conveyance carried on, all our endeavours at this time could not discover. This day we passed the barren isles.
On the 7th, at noon, St. Hermogenes bore N. four leagues distant. It appeared green and fertile.
On the 8th, we continued this course with very little variation, till night, when
a thick fog came
On the 11th, we were alarmed by the clashing of the waves, as if some great building was tumbling in, and looking round the ship, we saw ourselves involved among shoals of seals and sea-lions, who presently set up the most frightful howlings; at the same time, we observed a large whale to pass along, at which we fired a swivel, but without effect. We this day stood to the North-East as the land trended.
On the 12th, Cape St. Barnabas bore N. 52. E. At eight o'clock, we opened upon some new land, the extreme Eastward point of which bore E. S. E. In the evening we stood S.
On the 14th, in the morning, we saw Trinity Island, distant 7 or 8 leagues, lat. 56.23. lon. 205.16. We directed our course along shore.
On the 15th, the weather hazy, we lost sight of land, sounded, and found no ground at 100 fathom. A storm came on, and both ships stood to sea.
On the 16th, it abated, the weather clear, [came in sight of Foggy Island, so called by Beering] stood W. N. W. with a stiff breeze; lat. at noon by observation, 56.24. long. 202.17.
On the 17th, stood in, and saw land trend S. ½ E. as far as the eye could carry.
At nine in the morning we opened a large bay, the entrance of which from S. W.
to N. W. about three miles over; but having a fine breeze in our favour, we
On the 19th, we coasted along shore, and passed many dangerous rocks and shoals,
which we saw project from the main into the sea to a great distance. We were now
in lat. 55.26. long. 200.48. E. At two in the afternoon, we passed two large
islands to the Southward of us, and about three had passed all the land to the
Southward, when, being within half a mile of the main, we observed three canoes
making towards us, in which were six Indians. When they came along side, they
made signs for us to drop our anchors, intimating that the people on shore
would be glad to see us; at the same time, we thought we heard the report of a
gun. Little notice, however, was taken of what passed. The people from the
gang-way talked with the men, one of whom made signs for letting down a rope, to
which he tied a neat box, curiously made up with small twine, for which he would
take nothing in return. The man who took it, looked upon it as a great
curiosity; and, after the Indians were gone, began to examine the contents,
when a note was found in the inside, which was immediately carried to the
Captain, and a consultation was held on the quarter-deck to endeavour to
decypher the contents; but none on board the Discovery could make out a letter.
The ship was then hove-to, three guns fired, and a jack hoisted to the mast-head
for stopping the Resolution. This being observed, all on board were struck with
fear for the safety of the Discovery, thinking that some fatal disaster had
happened, and that she was going to the bottom. Their boat was instantly hoisted
out,
On the 20th, early in the morning, looking out a-head, we saw something like a reef before us, and fired a gun for the Resolution to tack; happy that day-light had enabled us to escape the danger.
On the 21st, we steered S. W. but at eight A. M. finding the land to trend more
to the Southward, we altered our course to S. S. W. the extreme of the land in
sight bearing W. by S. seven or eight leagues, very high land, and much snow.
About two in the afternoon, we came again in sight of the two burning mountains,
which we had before seen, but at a great distance, bearing N. W. by N. Our
course during the night was S. S. W. During the course of this day, the weather
being fair, and but little wind, the men were employed in fishing; and in less
than four hours caught more than three ton weight of cod and holybut, some of
the latter more than a hundred pounds weight. Here a man in a small canoe came
on board the Resolution. He bowed and pulled off his cap, and shewed evident
signs of
On the 22d, our men were employed in salting and barreling up, for future use, what the ship's company could not consume while fresh, which proved a most acceptable supply. All this day we kept our course S. W. by S.
On the 23d, in the evening, we shaped our course more to the Westward, the weather thick and hazy.
On the 24th, little wind and hazy. Saw no land; but looking over the ship's side, observed the water to change to a milky white. Sounded, and found ground at 47 fathom. About four P. M. we saw two very high islands bearing N. W. distance about five leagues, and could discern the main land contiguous. We bore away under the lee of the Westernmost, and continued steering all night S. by W.
On the 25th, in the morning, we changed our course, steering S. W. as the land
trended. At ten the same morning, we had a full view of the land for many miles,
but saw no signs of houses or inhabitants; but doubtless, though the country
appeared rugged and barren, and in many places white with snow, there were many
people in the inland parts. About seven in the evening we could see land at a
great distance, bearing due South, which had the appearance of a large island.
Hitherto we had been exploring the coasts of an unknown continent; unknown, at
least, to our European geographers: though we shall see by the sequel, that it
was not wholly unexplored by the Asiatic Russians. Towards night, though it had
been perfectly clear all day, the air began to
On the 27th, at three A. M. it ceased blowing, and the weather began to clear. At
six we unmoored, and sailed under close reefed top-sails, directing our course
N. W. for an opening we saw at about a league distance; but at nine the wind
dying away, we anchored again in 25 fathom water, loamy sand. It being a dead
calm, our
On the 28th, in the morning, Mr. Nelson, accompanied by several other gentlemen,
went on shore botanizing; they found great variety of plants and flowers
peculiar to the country, besides others, with which we were all well acquainted;
On the 29th, the boats were employed in watering the ships, and the sail-makers,
&c. began to overhaul the rigging, and all hands were employed in different
repairs. In the mean time several Indians hovered round the ships with fish
On the 30th both Captains landed, in order to survey the island, and take a more accurate view of the harbour, Captain Cook intending to make this the place of rendezvous on his return: they met with several friendly Indians in their way, to whom they made presents.
On the 1st of July the signal was given to unmoor; but, the wind shifting to N.
N. E. Mr. Edgar, master of the Discovery, accompanied by several other
gentlemen, made a visit to an Indian town, which they saw at the distance of
five or six miles, situated on the side of a pleasant little hill, that seemed
to command a view of the bay, and of a great extent of country around. At this
town they arrived about ten in the morning, when a well-looking old man made
them understand he was chief of the place. To him therefore they made their
addresses, by presenting him with some Page [unnumbered] [illustration]
[depiction of the people of Onalashka] A Man and Woman of Onalashka. p. 246.
While Mr. Edgar, &c. were thus pleasing themselves with one kind of amusement, Mr. Law, Surgeon, was diverting himself with another. He went a hunting, and traced an old fox to her cover, where, after digging a considerable way, he found seven young ones; two of which he brought on board, and one of them lived a long time after.
On the 2d of July we cleared the harbour, called by the inhabitants Samganooda, situated on the North-side of Oonalashka, in lat. 53.35. long. 193.30. About noon we saw the land trend to S. S. E. hauled up to E. N. E. and continued all night in that course.
On the 3d, at two A. M. she wore ship, and stood to the Southward till day-light, and then tacked, and steered E. N. E. At noon we saw the extreme of the land, bearing E. ½ S.
On the 4th, at two A. M. we steered N. N. E. At ten sounded at seventy fathom, blue mud, shelly bottom, and making very little way, our men were employed in fishing, and in less than four hours catched upwards of 800 weight of cod. At noon we had an observation, lat. 55.49. N. long. 195.34. Course all night N. E.
On the 5th, we saw the land very low and even, trending away to the Southward of
the East. We were distant from the Northernmost shore three or four leagues, and
from this day we began sounding till our arrival in watering harbour. This day
all hands employed in fishing; and as our people were now put on two-thirds
allowance, what each caught he might eat or sell. Fortunate for them, they
caught some tons of fine
On the 6th we continued the same course, and, sounding, found ground at twelve fathom. We tacked, and stood to the S. E. and, sounding again, found ground at three fathoms and a half. We were now in Beering's Straits. We tacked instantly, and stood to the North, having had another providential escape from running upon the rocks. We got out our boats, and sounded from 7 to 5½ fathom, rocky bottom for eight or nine leagues to the Northward. Lat. 57.4. long. 199.40. We were now in a most perilous and laborious navigation; sounding every day, and every day in danger of perishing on the rocks.
On the 7th sounded from twelve to four fathom, hard bottom, with shells. Lat. 57.17. long. 200.6.
On the 8th sounded from seven to twenty fathom; small shells, with sand. Lat. 57.46. long. 201.40. per watch.
On the 9th a great fog; lay by most part of the day; sounded from six to ten fathoms and a half; lat. by observation 58.15. long. 201.11.
On the 10th we had thunder, hail, and rain. The men almost exhausted with fatigue; sounded from twelve to nine fathoms and a half. Lat. 57.58. long. 221.19.
The 11th we came in sight of land. The air clear and pleasant; we steered N. W.
by W. the
On the 12th nothing material; the day was pleasant, and he had a full view of the land, but saw neither tree nor bush; sounded from eight to sixteen fathom. Latitude by observation 58.20.
The 13th, sounded from eight to thirteen fathom. Lat. 58.13. long. 198.8.
The 14th we coasted along shore, N. N. W. and at three in the afternoon found ourselves to the windward of the Southward point, with a strong tide setting to the S. E. About four a thick fog arose, and being within two miles of the shore, came to an anchor in ten fathom water, the extreme point of land to the Westward, bearing N. N. W. very high; distant between six and seven leagues. Sounded all day from ten to twelve fathom. Latitude by observation 58.20. long. 197.51.
The 15th, about ten in the morning, the weather clear and fine, we came to an
anchor in seventeen fathom water, lat. 58.24. long. 197.4. Here the cutters from
both ships were manned, and all the gentlemen went on shore. We saw no other
inhabitants but bears and foxes, and some wild deer; we heard in the adjoining
woods
The 16th, the water shallowed so fast, that it was thought prudent to drop anchors again, and to send the boats out with a compass to examine the strait to a considerable distance a-head. In half an hour a gun was fired from the boats, as a signal not to proceed, and the man at the mast-head saw land appear just above water. This proved a barren spot, not above an acre wide, with nothing but shells and the bones of fishes on it. The boats having sounded from W. to N. W. by N. from two to one fathom and a half, returned with their report, that no passage could be found in that direction. From this day to the 20th, the boats were continually sounding in all directions amidst the most dreadful tempest of thunder, lightning, and hail, that ever blew; but such was our danger, that Capt. Cook himself shared in all the labour: and what added to our misfortune, the Resolution parted her best bower within ten fathoms of the anchor, and it was wonderful that she was not wrecked. Lat. 58.40. long. 196.40.
On the 17th all hands that could be spared were employed in sweeping for the anchor, but in vain; being quite worn down with fatigue, they were forced to give over, and men from the Discovery were ordered to supply their places. Latitude by observation 58.53. long. 197.4.
On the 18th the anchor was recovered, when every officer on board both ships was obliged to do the duty of common men. No pen can describe our danger from the horrible situation we were in.
The 19th was wholly employed in sounding from eight to two fathom. Lat. 59.37. long. 197.17.
On the 20th Captain Cook himself, in sounding to the S. E. found a narrow channel, regular soundings, from eight to ten fathom. Hope took place of despair, and all hands returned to their labour with fresh spirits. We presently weighed, and pursued our course with a fine breeze. The day continuing clear, at noon we had an observation in lat. 59.37. long. 197. E. This day we were visited by some Indians, who had little to part with, except dried fish, and bows and arrows. The only peculiarity we observed was, that most of them had their heads shaved close. They seemed fondest of Otaheite and other Indian cloth, for which they would part with any thing.
On the 21st, about noon, both ships brought to, the wind and current both uniting to oppose our progress; founded from twelve to five fathoms and a half. Lat. 59.26. long. 197.18.
On the 22d we were overjoyed, on sounding, to find the sea deepen to forty
fathom; but, before night that joy was much damped by a prodigious fall of snow,
of which it was with difficulty that the decks could be kept clear, though the
water
The 23d made sail, and steered W. Lat. 58.26.
The 24th continued our course W. by S.
The 25th lay to most of the day, by reason of the fog. Lat. 57.43. long. 193.
The 26th, when it began to clear up.
On the 27th we had clear weather, and regular soundings, from twenty-seven to thirty fathom; black sand and small shells.
On the 28th sounded all day from twenty-eight to thirty-three fathoms; sandy bottom.
On the 29th the man at the mast-head called out land very high, distance about two leagues right a-head. We tacked, and stood off. Long 189.20. per watch.
On the 30th we continued along-shore, course N. ½ E. sounding from twenty-five to thirty-five fathom. Lat. 61.14. long. 190.10.
The 31st we were again alarmed with irregular soundings, from ten to thirty fathom, but were soon relieved, by the water deepening. Lat. 31.20. long. 188.11. per watch.
August the 1st, the sea continued to deepen, but the land trending to the southward, obliged us to change our course. We were now in lat. 60.59. N. long. 191.47. E.
On the 2d we again bore away N. W. all the morning, and at noon tacked to N. E. by N. Lat. 62.13. long. 191.33.
The 3d, course all day N. N. E. This course we pursued, with a little variation
to the eastward, till the evening, when we saw land, bearing S. W. distance
seven or eight leagues. Latitude by observation 63.4. long. 192.10. This day,
word was brought us from the Resolution of the death
The 4th at noon, sounding from fifteen toten fathom we came again in sight of land, which bore from us W. to N. ½ E. At noon we sounded, and found only eight fathoms and a half. In the evening we came to an anchor in fifteen fathom. Lat. 64.44. long. 192.7.
On the 5th, we came to in twelve fathom water, under the lee of a small but high island, in lat. 64.41. long. 192.14. to which Captain Cook gave the name of Sledge Island, as a sledge and the remains of a Russian town were found upon it, but no inhabitants. There were likewise found some Russian snow-shoes. Mr. Nelson, and his associates found, on this island, great quantities of wild celery, and a kind of wild vetch or chichling, of which the ship's company made the proper use.
Early on the 6th we weighed, and stood W. by N. As we coasted along shore, several Indians were seen on the opposite side of the island, who were, to all appearance, preparing to pay us a visit. We hove to; but, after waiting an hour, and none coming, we continued our course. We soon came again into shallow water, and finding the land too near us from the western shore, we altered our course to N. N. W. sounding from four to six fathom water, six leagues from the main land. We were now obliged to come to anchor, as a heavy snow darkened the air, and rendered our proceeding hazardous. Lat. 4.44. long. 192.42.
On the 7th, judging ourselves near the shore, though not in sight, we weighed and
tacked; and as the fog dispersed, we saw the land mountainous and rocky, with
neither tree nor shrub in sight, but exhibiting the most dreary prospect that
the mind of man can conceive. At the same time, an island was seen bearing N.
81. W. eight or nine leagues distant, named by us King's Island. It seemed of no
great extent. We hastened from this horrid situation, but in the course of the
day were under the necessity of coming to an anchor three times; but in
launching it the last time, we observed the stock of our best bower to be
sprung. Nothing could equal our apprehensions. We immediately made signals, and
acquainted our Commodore with our distress. Fortunately, the stock of an
unserviceable best-bower hung over our side, which, by the assistance of the
carpenters and smiths of the Resolution, added to our own, was in less than
twenty-four hours, though under every disadvantage, substituted in the room of
the other, and rendered perfectly safe. And happy it was, for On the 8th, we had
a violent storm of hail, rain and snow, which continued all the morning; but the
wind dying away about noon, and the current setting to the N. E. we were drifted
to leeward close in shore, under a very high track of land, and among rocks and
breakers. Both ships instantly came to in 9 fathom water, the Resolution with
her best-bower, within two miles of the shore, and the Discovery with her
coasting anchor. Here we saw high land, extending from N. by W. to N. W. by N.
distant about three leagues. Over the western extreme was an elevated peaked
hill, situated in lat. 65.36. and in long. 192.18. Under this hill lies some low
land, stretching out
On the 9th about 2 A. M. we came again to an anchor, a strong current from 5 to 6
knots an hour setting against us; but the ships pitching bows under, and the
water from the upper deck running, as through a sieve, to the lower deck, in
less than half an hour, every thing between decks was afloat, so that the poor
men had not a dry rag to put on. This obliged us to weigh as fast as possible;
but, in our situation, that was a work of no small labour and difficulty, as at
this time many of our hands, through fatigue, and being constantly exposed to
the rain and snow, and in a damp ship, were ill of colds, attended with slow
fevers, which rendered them incapable of duty. Out of 70 hands, officers
included, we could only muster 20 to the capstern. We had with difficulty
weighed our small bower, and had made two unsuccessful attempts at the sheet
anchor, when the Resolution left us, making all the sail she could carry, to
surmount the current. We were now in the utmost distress; but by contriving
several additional purchases we at last succeeded, with the misfortune,
however, of having two of our ablest hands wounded; and it was next to a miracle
that none were killed. The Resolution was now out of sight, but, judging our
distress, she lay to amidst
On the 10th, we had fine weather and a calm sea, and were proceeding, at a great
rate, our course W. when, unexpectedly we opened into a deep bay, where we saw
at the distance of a few leagues, a large Indian town, which our Commodore at
first supposed to belong to the island of Alaschka; but from the figure of the
coast, the situation of the opposite shore of America, and from the longitude,
he found reason to alter his opinion, and to conclude that it was a part of the
country of Tschutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia, explored by Beering in
1728. Long 189.25. Here we cast anchor in 13 fathom water, and both Captains,
attended by a proper guard went on shore. About 30 or 40 men, each armed with a
spontoon, a bow and arrows, stood drawn up on a rising ground close by the
village. As we drew near, three of them came down towards the shore, and were so
polite as to take off their caps, and to make us low bows. We returned the
civility, but this did not inspire them with sufficient confidence; for the
moment we advanced, they retired. Capt. Cook followed them alone, without any
thing in his hand; and by signs, prevailed on them to receive some trifling
presents. In return, they gave him two fox skins, and a couple of sea-horse
teeth. They seemed very cautious; expressing their desire by signs, that no more
of our people might be permitted to come up. On
All the Americans we had seen since our arrival on that coast, were rather low
of stature, with round chubby faces, and high cheek bones.
Their clothing consisted of a cap, a frock, a pair of breeches, a pair of boots, and a pair of gloves, all made of the skins of deer, dogs, seals, &c. extremely well dressed; some with the hair or fur on, and others without. The caps were made to fit the head very close; and, besides these caps, which most of them wore, we got from them some hoods made of the skins of dogs, large enough to cover both head and shoulders. Their hair seemed to be black, but their heads were either shaved, or the hair cut close off, and none of them wore any beard. Of the articles they got from us, knives and tobacco they valued most.
We found the village composed both of their summer and their winter habitations. The latter are exactly like vaults, the floors of which are sunk a little below the surface of the earth, and boarded, and under them a kind of cellar, in which we saw nothing but water. At the end of each house was a vaulted room, which we took to be a store-room. Over it stood a kind of sentry-box or tower, composed of the large bones of large fish.
The summer-huts were pretty large and conical. The framing was of light poles and
bones, covered
About these habitations were several stages, ten or twelve feet high, for drying their fish and skins out of the reach of their dogs, of which they had many; large and of different colours, with long soft hair, like wool; probably used in drawing the sledges, for sledges they had in their huts. Perhaps these dogs, being numerous, may constitute a part of their food; for several of them lay dead, that had been killed that morning.
Their canoes are of the same sort with those of the Northern Americans.
By the large fish-bones, and of other sea-animals, that lay scattered about, it appears, that the sea supplies them with the greatest part of their substance.
After a stay of about two or three hours with these people, we returned to our ships, and pur+sued our voyage.
On the 11th we passed several large islands to the eastward of us, and at the
same time left the extreme point of the northern cape of Asia, which we saw
trend away to the W. by S. as far as the eye could carry, mostly high land,
barren and covered with snow. We then bore away to the north-east, sounding
from 5 to 6 fathom, and about 3 P. M. finding the sea to change of a milky
colour, and at the same time to shallow very fast, we came to in 7 fathom water,
and sent the boats out to sound, who soon returned, finding
On the 12th we altered our course, and stood to the westward, when both ships tacked, and plyed to the North, leaving two very small islands on our starboard bow. In the evening we crossed the arctic circle, and stood all night W. by S. 66.35. long 189.39.
In the morning of the 13th we stood once more north eastward. We were now in lat 66.40. and from 20 to 40 fathom water, the weather warm and fine. We altered our course and steered all night N. N. E.
On the 14th in the morning, we hauled our wind and stood with the ship's head to the N. E. About 5 in the afternoon we came in sight of land, distance about 5 or 6 leagues, very high, woody, and covered with snow; we stood in for land; but finding the coast rugged, and the water shoal, we stood again W. S. W. and continued that course the whole night. Lat. 67.27. long. 191.40.
On the 15th, finding ourselves attacked by a heavy storm of wind, attended with rain, we bore away N. W. by W. and continued that course till the evening, when we shortened sail and stood to the southward. Lat. obs. 68.18. long. 192.37.
On the 16th at noon we found ourselves in lat. 69.46. long. 192. E. We then stood from N. N. E. to N. E. sounding from 22 to 23 fathom water. Lat. 69.46. long. 192.
On the 17th the weather began to grow pierceing cold. The frost set in, and
froze so hard that the running rigging was soon loaded with ice, and rendered
almost impossible to make the sheafs or
On the 18th, hot victuals froze while we were at table; and this weather continued for some days. Being now well in with the ice, and having lost sight of land, we kept working to the westward. At noon a great fog came on, but soon clearing up, the sun made his appearance, and we had an observation, by which we found we were in lat. 70.54. long. 198.17. About eight at night it blew a gale, with heavy snow; we shortened sail, and stood to the southward.
The 19th when looking round in the morning, as soon as the fog cleared away, we
saw nothing but fields of ice covered with whole herds of sea-lions,
On the 20th we tacked ship, and stood to the westward, the wind much against us. We tacked every two hours, still working over to the Asiatic shore, with a view to examine the coasts on both sides, before we returned to the southward. We were now in lat. 70.54. long. 194.55.
On the 21st, we came in sight of the continent of America, extending from S. by E. to E. by S. the nearest part five leagues distant.
We continued labouring among the ice till the 25th, when a storm came on, which made it dangerous for us to proceed; a consultation was therefore held on board the Resolution as soon as the violence of the gale abated, when it was unanimously resolved, that as this passage was impracticable for any useful purpose of navigation, which was the great object of the voyage, to pursue it no farther, especially in the condition the ships were in, the winter approaching, and the distance from any known place of refreshment great.
About two in the morning of the 26th we observed a great body of ice nearing us
very fast, and in a few hours after we saw the ice all closed as far
On the 28th several pieces of loose ice passed us, one of which came soul of the Discovery, and shook her whole frame; it was feared she had received considerable damage, but upon the carpenters examining her sore and aft, nothing was found amiss. We now took leave of the ice for this season, directing our course S. S. W.
On the 29th we saw land in the morning, which bore from N. N. W. to S. W. very high, and covered with snow. At two, P. M. we were in with the land. It showed itself in two hills, like islands; but afterwards seemed connected, and appeared in every respect like the opposite coast of America. In the low ground, lying between the high land and the sea, was a lake, extending to the S. E. farther than we could see.
The 30th, at two, A. M. bore away E. by S. At seven saw land; the extreme of which bore S. E. At two, P. M. saw more land, trending to the southward. At this time came in sight of a narrow channel that seemed to lead to the lake, which we had seen the day before. H••…led our wind, and stood N. E. by E. In the evening we were in with the land, and not a shrub to be seen, but birds innumerable, chiefly sea parrots.
On the 31st, at day-light, we came in sight of the eastern cape, named Cape
North, bearing S. S. E. very high, and covered with snow: we were then distant
from the nearest shore four or five leagues. Continued our course from S. S. E.
to S. E. by E. At noon the extreme of the southward point bore S. W. by S. At
three, P. M. we saw two small, but very high islands, bearing from N. N. E. to
N. W. which we left to the northward. We were then in lat. 68.56. and
Sept. 1, we continued coasting to the eastward, as the land trended; distance about four miles from the shore. Here Capt. Cook took occasion to fix the Eastern point of the Asiatic Continent. It shews, he says, a steep rocky cliff facing the sea, and lies in the lat. 67.3. and long. 188.11.
On the 2d we continued coasting along shore. Course all day S. S. E. Saw many very high trees, supposed to be pines.
On the 3d we opened into the great bay, called the bay of St. Lawrence, where we anchored the 10th of last month; but what was remarkable, none of the inhabitants, whom we had visited, offered to approach us, though the weather was favourable.
On the 4th stood W. N. W. right in for the land. At six, A. M. bore away S. ½ W. the easternmost point of land bearing S. by E. distance six or seven leagues, and so continued all day. At night stood E. N. E.
On the 5th we lost sight of the main continent of Asia, which we left the day before. Lat. 64.7. long. 189.1.
On the 6th we saw land from W. N. W. to E. N. E. very woody, and covered with snow in the vallies. Here we found ourselves in sight of Sledge-Island, near the continent of America; and here Capt. Cook was desirous of discovering the island of Alaschkska, which the Russians had described as abounding with wood and water.
On the 7th, there came two canoes from the shore, with four Indians in them,
though we were distant full four leagues. We hove to for their
On the 8th, we steered E. ½ N. passing several bays and fine harbours all day; found the country pleasant, and the coast delightful. Lat. 64.22. long. 197. beyond which the coast took a more Northerly course. Here we found a strong current to set to the S. E. at the rate of five knots an hour.
On the 9th, at five, A. M. land appeared from S. E. to E. like two islands, but, after fatigueing trials, we found them join to the main land. At four, P. M. the land opened all round, from one shore to the other; and we found ourselves in the middle of a deep bay, but very shallow, sometimes three, but never above five fathoms and a half water. At this time, a head-land on the West shore, distinguished by the name of Bald Head, lay N. by W. one league distant. We saw the bay to run as far as the eye could carry, but impossible to proceed, as in many places the water shallowed under three fathom. We stood off and on all night.
On the 10th, having a stiff breeze, we ran right across the mouth of the bay, for
the N. W. shore, and just before night the Resolution narrowly escaped running
upon a rock. This day, Capt. Cook landed on a narrow border of land which joined
to the beech, and which was covered with grass and heath, with a variety of wild
berries,
On the 11th, we came to anchor, in six fathom water, distance from the shore about four miles; the Easternmost point of the bay bearing N. E. by E. distance about eight miles, very high land. In the night, we saw several fires, but no Indians came off to us.
On the 12th, in the morning, the boats from both ships were sent on shore, where
they saw some houses of a wretched construction; a small sledge, and several
other articles belonging to the Indians, but none of the natives. About ten,
they returned with a load of wood, which they found drifted on the beech, but
no water; the wood had drifted from the Southward, for we saw no trees, but
black spruce. We then stretched over to the other shore, and the boats were
again sent out, and about nine in the evening returned, loaded with wood, which
the men were obliged to carry through the water on their shoulders, as the boats
could not come within half a mile of land, for breakers. This was a grievous
task, as many of them but just recovered their late illness. This day several
natives came from the S. S. E. side, in large canoes, having great quantities of
salmon, dried and fresh, which they exchanged for blue and red beads, needles,
pins, knives, or scissars,
The 13th, cast anchor in four fathoms and a half water, within a mile and a half from the mouth of a great river, from whence before night we had got more than 20 tons of water; we had likewise got a considerable quantity of wood from the shore. This day a family of the natives came near the place where we were taking off the wood, miserable looking objects, who for four knives made out of an iron hoop, parted with more than 400 lb. weight of fish, which they had caught this and the preceding day.
On the 14th, the men had leave to go ashore by turns to gather berries, which
they now found ripe, and in great abundance, such as rasberries,
On their excursions, the parties were always well armed, and had marines to attend them; and their orders were never to go out of hearing of the ships guns, but to repair instantly on board on the proper signals. These precautions, however, seemed unnecessary, as they never met with any molestation from the natives, who were not numerous upon the coast.
On the 17th, the party that were sent out to survey the bay returned, after a
diligent examination of two days and two nights. Their report was, that from
the elevated spot from which they had taken their survey, they could see the
inlet terminate in a considerable river, which emptied itself into the sea at
the head of the bay; that in its course it watered many most delightful vallies,
which were bounded on every side with hills of a moderate height, interspersed
with mountains or a stupendous height. This report being confirmed by the
officers who commanded the cutters from both ships, the boats were all taken on
board and secured, and wood and water having been plentifully supplied, the bay
and sound examined, and the exact situation determined to be lat. 64.31. and
long. 197.13. there remained nothing but to name the sound, and take our
leave.
On the 18th, we weighed and sailed, retracing Beering's Straits, which we had before explored, without any material accident, though we found the water to shallow, insomuch that we were forced to abandon the thoughts of passing between Besborough Island and the main, to more than six miles distance.
On the 19th, shoal water obliged us to haul to the Westward, by which the whole coast from 63 to 60 remains unexplored; within which, from several indications, it should seem that a considerable river runs into the sea.
On the 20th, about two P. M. we came in sight of land, which appeared like two islands. Lat. 63.19. and at six in the evening came up with it, but found both islands in one, without either bush or tree. Course S. W.
On the 21st, saw a great number of islands; but they too, when we approached them, appeared all in one. Lat. 62.56. Course S. S. W.
On the 24th, we met with a dreadful tempest of wind, rain, and hail, or rather
ice, between two and three inches square, by which several of our men, who were
obliged to keep the deck, were severely wounded. In this long run, we passed
several remarkable promontaries and islands, particularly in lat. 63.30. N. we
passed two head-lands, distance from each other about half a mile. We hove-to,
and our boats sounded across, in some places not above one fathom and a half. In
lat. 62.56. we came in sight of a cluster of islands, as we imagined; but on our
nearer approach, found them all in one, barren, and without a
On the 26th, the Resolution made the signal of distress. On hailing her we were informed, that she had again sprung a leak in the late violent gale, and that all hands were employed at the pumps and in baleing; and that it was with difficulty they could keep her above water. Lat. 58.39.
On the 29th, we were again visited with a severe storm, and involved in heavy seas, our hull being sometimes entirely under water, and the waves rising to the yard-arms. About midnight it came on to snow, and the Resolution kept making signals and firing guns all night. At day-light, we saw her distant five or six miles. We shortened sail, and waited for her coming up. And, On the 30th, being both in company, the storm abated and the sea quite calm, both ships hove-to, and, while the carpenters were employed in stopping the leak in the Resolution, the people were busied in fishing. Those on board the Discovery caught 40 large cod, besides turbot, which were the more acceptable to officers and men, as our salt provisions were now very bad. Lat. 56.30. N.
On the 1st of October, we continued our course to the Southward. Lat. obs. 55.27.
And On the 2d, about five in the morning, we made land; and hauled our wind in
search of Samganoodo Harbour, on the island of Oomalashka, of which we had
mistaken the entrance. About six in the evening we came in sight of a large
Indian
On the 3d, in the morning, we found ourselves right a-breast the Race, and saw the Resolution just within the entrance. About two in the afternoon, the wind and tide both uniting in our favour, we safely anchored in our late birth.
All hands were now set to work, the carpenters in stripping the sheathing from
the Resolution to examine her leaks, and the sail-makers, caulkers, and riggers,
in their respective employments, for which there was great need, both ships
having suffered much in their sails, seams, and rigging, in the late tempestuous
weather, and in the icy Northern seas; but what gave the greatest pleasure to
the seamen, was the success they met with in fishing, whenever the weather was
such as to suffer them to haul the seine. At the mouth of the harbour, they
could at any time, in three or four hours, fill their boats with holybut of an
enormous size; one of them, sent on board the Resolution, during our stay,
weighed 220 lb.—Each mess had now a small cask with a quantity of salt given
them, in order to make some provision to help out their short allowance, which
it was found necessary to continue till their arrival in the tropical islands,
where the ships might again be furnished with a frefh supply. On the 4th, our
Captain went on board the Commodore, where he was acquainted by Capt. Cook with
the distress of the Resolution, which
We had still much to do, our articles for the tropical trade were nearly all exchanged, and we could expect no supplies of provisions without an equivalent. We therefore sent a small spare bower anchor on shore, and set our armourers to break it up, and make it into spikes, axes, hatchets, nails, and other tropical merchandize.
While every thing was getting ready, the officers diverted themselves as usual
with shooting and surveying the country; and here they found amusement enough,
having discovered a Russian settlement, divided only by a neck of land about 15
miles over, and a bay of about 1• miles, which they had to cross. From this
settlement Capt. Cook received a very singular pre+sent. It was a rye-loaf, or
rather a pye, inclosing some salmon very nicely seasoned. The man who
The road across the neck of land was rather rugged, but when that was surmounted,
the communication was easy. Some of our gentlemen who went to return the visit,
were met by an officer, who received them politely, and directed them to the
factory, where, besides the fort, they found a Russian bark of about 50 or 60
tons, eight small swivels, and one three pounder laid up for the winter, and
intended for Kamsha•ska the ensuing summer. Our gentlemen were here shewn the
stores belonging to the factory, consisting of skins and oil; their coppers for
boiling the oil, with the small ware with which they trafficked with the
natives by way of exchange. Iron instruments of war are prohibited, nor do they
suffer any offensive weapons of any kind to be introduced among them. It is
probable therefore, that the long knives we saw in the possession of the more
southerly Indians, were some that were
In the morning they renewed their enquiries, and the Russians, by exhibiting the chart of their discoveries and conquests, gave our gentlemen more satisfactory information than they could otherwise have obtained. They observed a remarkable conformity between those charts exhibited by the Russians as far as they went, and their own. The Russian discoveries extended from the 49th to the 64th degree of Northern latitude, by which the impracticability which we had discovered of a North-west passage by any strait or sound was fully confirmed.
They were now equally communicative to each other; the Russian gentlemen were desirous of knowing the names of the navigators and ships, with the expedition they were engaged in; and they were invited on board to receive further information. To this they readily agreed; and as soon as our gentlemen had satisfied their curiosity; had visited the Russian houses, which were built with timber, and those of the natives built with poles and earth; had remarked the simplicity of the latter, which seemed but one degree above the level of the beavers they hunted; and of the former, that was little more than a degree above those of the natives; they set out upon their return to the ships, accompanied by the Russian gentlemen, by whom they had been entertained.
About five in the evening, they all came on board the Resolution: the Russian
gentlemen were received by Capt. Cook with that familiarity and politeness that
was natural to him; they were taken into the great cabin, where both Captains
with their principal officers and gentlemen were assembled to entertain them,
and where the bottle was pretty briskly pushed about,
Before our departure, we were visited by the Principal of the Russian factory,
whose name was Erasim Gergorioffzin Izmyloff. He came from the Southward,
accompanied by a number of Indian canoes, laden with skins, who on coming
ashore in the harbour, instantly began erecting a tent, which in half an hour
they finished, covering it with skins. He was received on board the Resolution
with the respect due to his rank; and by his deportment it was easy to perceive
that he was of family. He was a young gentleman of a fair complexion, and
graceful stature, and, though differing but little in point of dress from those
by whom we had been visited before, he was, notwithstanding, very different in
his manners and behaviour. He had travelled much, but chiefly in these savage
countries, and in the Northern parts of Asia, and understood, and could talk the
After sleeping on board the ships two nights, and observing, with an attentive eye, the different employments of the artificers, and examining the various conveniencies and accommodations which we had on board, he took his leave on the 26th, intending to make some stay at the settlement of Egooschac, which the gentlemen of the Resolution had just visited.
From this gentleman Capt. Cook received much useful information. He had some excellent maps and charts of the Northern coasts and islands, which never had been published, but which had every mark of authenticity. He said, there were only two harbours on the peninsula of Kamtschatka that were fit to receive ships of burden; the bay of Awatska and the river Olutora: as to the many islands to the North of Kamtschatka, lying between that and the coasts of America, which had found place in former maps, Page 280 were wholly omitted and others added, by which the Captain was enabled to compleat his own. From the information given by this gentleman, we have been able to correct our own map prefixed to this voyage, with respect to the situation of islands between the Bay of Awatska, and the country of Alascha, the name by which the continent of this part of America is known to the Russians, and called by the natives.
There are, it seems, Russians settled on all the principal islands between Oonalashka and Kamtschatka, for the purpose of collecting furs. Their great object is the sea-beaver or otter. The natives are a quiet inoffensive people, and for honesty might serve as an example to the most enlightened people upon earth. The latitude of Saganoodha harbour is 53.5. longitude 193.11.
On the 25th, the repairs of both ships being compleated, and the wind coming fair to the Southward, we unmoored and were preparing to sail, when the Resolution, on clearing the harbour, run upon a rock, and, it was feared, had received much damage, as at low water she swayed 13 inches, and it was twelve at night before she was disengaged. This necessarily retarded our departure; and happily it was that we were got safe into harbour, for a storm arose, which tumbled the waters into the race with unexampled fury.
On the 26th, the wind abated and came fair to carry us to sea, and the ship being found unhurt, we weighed, and, having cleared the harbour, made sail, directing our course up the race, to the N. W. At eight o'clock we were out of the race, but still continued our course to the Westward, when at midnight a heavy gale came on attended with snow and rain.
On the 27th, the gale still continuing, to add to our labour, we sprung a leak, which kept us to the pumps till the storm abated. While it was at the height, it carried away our fore and maintacks, and, in endeavouring to save them, John Mackintosh, seaman, was struck dead, and the boatswain and four men were much wounded.
On the 28th, having lost sight of the Resolution in the heavy gale, about three in the morning we heard her signal for wearing. Lat. 53.52.
On the 29th, about eight A. M. we again saw land, supposed to be the island called Amoghta, and by ten were in danger of perishing on a lee-shore. At eleven our people in taking in a reef of the fore-top-sail, called out a ship under sail, bearing N. N. W. but on a nearer view found it an elevated rock covered with snow. Lat. 53.57. long. 191.192.
On the 30th, we were again within the race, and at six in the evening passed the entrance of our harbour, when five canoes made towards us; but being now in full sail, intending to leave the coast, our leak not being found dangerous, they were unable to overtake us, nor did we think it of consequence to lie bye till they should come up. On the 31st, we pursued our course to the Southward. Lat. 52.3.
On the 1st of November, we once more stood to the Southward, after which no accident, or any thing worth relating happened, till our arrival on the coast of O-why-e, so called by the Russians, and by Capt. Cook Providence harbour, except that on the 7th a cormorant was seen to fly several times round the Resolution; which was the more noticed as those birds are never seen far from land, and none was near.
On the 26th, being then in lat. 21.15. about six A. M. we came in sight of land,
bearing from S. S. W. to N. W. very high and beautiful; we were then so much in
want of provisions, that Capt. Clerke, much against his inclination, was under
the necessity of substituting stock-fish in the room of beef; but we were no
sooner well in with the land, than we were visited by many of the inhabitants,
who came off with their canoes with all sorts of provisions which their island
afforded; and every man on board, had leave to purchase what he could for his
own subsistence. This diffused a joy among the mariners that is not easy to be
expressed. From a sullenness and discontent visible in every countenance the day
before, all was chearfulness, mirth and jollity. Fresh provisions and kind
damsels are the sailors sole delight; and when in possession of these, past
hardships are instantly forgotten: even those whom the scurvy had attacked, and
had rendered pale and lifeless as ghosts, brightened upon this occasion, and for
the moment appeared alert. This flattering beginning, however, yielded no
substantial relief. The boats that were sent to sound the shore, and to look
for a harbour, went out day after day, without being able to discover so much as
a safe anchorage, and we were longer in finding a harbour than in making the
coast. Nothing could be more toilsome or distressing than our present situation;
within sight of land, yet unable to reach it; driven out to sea, by one storm,
and in danger of being wrecked on the breakers by another. At length, after
having examined the leeward side of the island, Captain Cook made the signal to
stand out to sea. This was on the 7th of December, when it was determined
On the 17th our boats were employed in towing the ships into harbour in sight of
the greatest multitude of Indian spectators in canoes and on shore, that we had
ever seen assembled together in any part of our voyage. It was concluded,
This day, before two o'clock, P. M. we were safely moored in 17 fathom water, in
company with the Resolution, which a few days before we had given over for lost.
From the time of attempting to get round the island, till the 8th of January,
we had never been able to get sight of her, though both ships were constantly
looking out to find each other. They had suffered much in their masts and
rigging, and were happy at last, as well as ourselves, to find a convenient
harbour to refit. We were scarce moored, when a young man, of majestic
appearance, came along side, and after an oration, and the usual ceremonies of
peace had passsed on both sides, he came on board, bringing with him a small
barbecued hog, some ready-dressed bread-fruit, and a curious mantle of red
cloth, as presents to the Captain; and in return was complimented with several
axes, looking-glasses, bracelets, and other shewy articles that attracted his
notice. While he was busy in admiring every thing he saw on board the
Discovery, the pinnace was ordered out, and he with his attendants were taken
to Capt. Cook, where he
On the morning after our people landed, six large double canoes were seen
entering the harbour at a great rate, having not less than 30 paddles to each
canoe, with upwards of 60 Indians on board, most of them naked. Seeing them on
their nearer approach making towards the ships, the Captains ordered the guns to
be shotted, the marines to be drawn up, and every man to be ready at his post;
the Indians assembled so fast, that before noon, the ships were surrounded with
more than 100 canoes, in which there were not less than 1000 Indians. They at
first traded friendly, having hogs in abundance, and plenty of bread-fruit,
plantains, bananoes, and whatever else the island produced; but they had not
been there long, before a large stone was thrown in at the cabin-window of the
Discovery, by an invisible hand. A watch was instantly set, and in less than
half an hour another stone was thrown at the caulkers, as they were at work on a
stage on the ship's side. The offender was seen, and in sight of the Chiefs, and
the whole multitude, he was seized, brought on board, tied to the shrouds, and
punished with fifty lashes. In a few minutes, such was their fright, there was
not an Indian to be seen near the ships.—Like unlucky boys, when one is
apprehended for some naughty trick, the rest
There are who have blamed Capt. Cook for his severity to the Indians; but it was not to the Indians alone that he was severe in his discipline. He never suffered any fault in his own people, though ever so trivial, to escape unpunished. If they were charged with insulting an Indian, or injuring him in his property, if the fact was proved, the offender was surely punished in sight of the Indians. By this impartial distribution of justice, the Indians themselves conceived so high an idea of his wisdom, and his power too, that they paid him the same honours as they did their Et-u-a, or Good Spirit.
The caulkers, who have already been mentioned, when they came round in course to
the after-part of the Resolution, found that, besides the seams that wanted
closing, there were other more material defects. The rudder's eyes were almost
eaten through with rust, and the bolts ready to tumble out. This was an alarming
defect; and all other business was suspended till that was repaired.
On the 19th, being the fourth day after our arrival, several very large canoes were seen to come from the S. E. We at first thought they were the friends with whom we had traded on the other side of the island; but on their nearer approach, we found they were all armed and clothed in the military uniform, after their country manner. This gave us cause to suspect some traiterous design, but our fears were in some measure dissipated by the assurances we received from our friends on board, that they were some of the warriors that had accompanied the King in his expedition against the Eree of Maw-wee, and that they were now returning home in triumph; but, notwithstanding this assurance, it was thought prudent to be upon our guard, and the rather as the women who were on board, told us, that their people designed to attack us, and to mattee, that is, to kill us every one.
Next day, before nine in the morning, more than a thousand Indians surrounded the
Discovery, insomuch that pressing their weight chiefly on one side, the ship was
in danger of being over-set. The Captain ordered two great guns to be fired, in
order to try what effect that would have in dispersing them. In less than three
minutes, there were a thousand heads to be seen above water, so many having
jumped into the sea, frighted on the sudden report of the guns; neither did a
single canoe come near us all the next day. Some of the
In a few days after this, the old King Terreeoboo was seen to enter the harbour, on his return from Maw-wee. In the afternoon he visited the ship in a private manner, attended only by one canoe, in which were his wife and children. He staid on board till near ten at night, when he returned to the village Kowrowa.
The next day about noon, the King, in a large canoe, attended by two others, set out from the village, and paddled towards the ships, in great state. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the first canoe was Terreeoboo, and his Chiefs, dressed in their feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers. In the second, came the venerable Kaoo, the Chief of the Priests, and his brethren, with their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the centre; their mouths were set with a Page 290 double row of the fangs of dogs; and together, with the rest of their features, were strangely distorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs, and various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the Priests, in the centre canoe, sung their hymns with great solemnity; and after paddling round the ships, instead of going on board as was expected, they made towards the shore, at the beach where our men were stationed. On their approach, the guard was instantly ordered out to receive the King; and Capt. Cook, perceiving he was going on shore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the same time. They were conducted into the tent, where they had scarce been seated, when the King rose up, and, in a very graceful manner, threw over the Captain's shoulders, the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helmet upon his head, and a curious fan in his hand. He also spread at his feet five or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of great value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa-nuts, and bread fruit. This part of the ceremony over, they all made a circle round with their images in procession, till they arrived at their Morai, where they placed their deities, and deposited their arms.
Next day both Captains, accompanied with several of their officers, went to pay
the King a visit on shore. They were very respectfully received, and having
dined after the Indian manner, the King rose, and clothing Capt. Cook with a
mantle, such as is worn by the great Oreno in grand procession, he was
conducted to the morai, or place of worship, where a garland of green plantain
leaves was put upon his head, and he was seated on a kind of throne, and had the
honour of exchanging names with the King, the strongest
When all these solemnities were over, we were not a little astonished to find in this King, the same infirm, emaciated, old man, that came on board Capt. Cook when off the island of Ma-wee; and it was soon discovered, that he was then accompanied with the same persons, viz. his two younger sons, one sixteen, the other twelve, with his nephew Maiha-Macha, a man of a most savage countenance.
[When we first approached the coast of this island of O why hee, we were
astonished at the sight of a mountain of a stupendous height, whose head was
covered with snow. This was so rare a sight in an island between the tropics,
that several of the officers and gentlemen from both ships were desirous of
taking a nearer view of it; and for that purpose they requested the King's
permission, and a guide to attend them, which was readily granted,
On the 26th Mr. Nelson, our botanist, and four other gentlemen set out in the morning on this expedition, which they afterwards found attended with no small fatigue, and not a little danger; for after travelling two days and two nights, and experiencing the greatest fatigue and hardships; no water, no paths to direct their way; no inhabitants for many miles, and the cold excessive as they approached the mountain, which seemed covered with snow, they were glad to get back without any accident. In the course of their journey, they were directed to the cottage of an old hermit, who, they said, had formerly been a great warrior; but who, for several years past, had retired to this sequestered spot. He received them without any kind of emotion, but would accept of nothing that they offered him. He appeared by far the oldest man they had seen on the island.
On the 29th they returned to the ships, and the only advantage that accrued from their journey, was, a curious assortment of indigenous plants and some natural curiosities, collected by Mr. Nelson. During their absence every thing remained quiet at the tents, and the Indians supplied the ships with such quantities of provisions of all kinds, that orders were given to purchase no more hogs in one day than could be killed, salted, and stowed away the next day. This order was in consequence of a former order, to purchase all that could be procured for sea-stock; by which so many were brought on board, that several of them died before they could be properly disposed of.
It had been generally thought impracticable to cure the flesh of these animals in
the tropical climates; and it is believed, that few trials had ever
The method we took was always to slaughter them in the afternoon, and as soon as the hair was scalded off, and the entrails removed, the carcass was divided into pieces, from four to eight pounds each, and the bones of the chine and legs taken out, and, in the large sort, the ribs also. Every piece being then carefully wiped and examined, that no bruise might escape, and all the veins cleared out, that no coagulated blood might remain, they were then handed to the salters while the flesh was still warm. After they had been well rubbed with salt, they were then placed in a heap on a stage, raised in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with the heaviest weights we could lay on them. In this situation they lay till the next evening, when they were again well wiped and examined, and the suspicious parts taken away. They were then put into a tub of strong pickle, where they were always looked over once or twice a day, and if any piece had not taken salt, which was readily discovered by the smell, they were immediately taken out, re-examined, and the sound pieces put to fresh pickle, and the other either used immediately, or thrown away. This, however, seldom happened. After six days, they were taken out, examined for the last time, and being again lightly pressed, they were packed in barrels with a thin layer of salt between them. Some of this pork was brought to England, perfectly sweet and good.
On the 1st of February, 1779, William Watman, gunner's mate, died. His body in
the afternoon was carried on shore in the pinnace, and
We were now preparing to depart, when our Captain was presented by the King with twelve large hogs, three boats-load of bread-fruit, potatoes, sugar-cane, and cocoa-nuts; and the same present was made to Capt. Cook.
This day, Feb. 2, the King came on board, attended with twenty of his Chiefs, and gave the Captains of both ships, with their officers, an invitation to an heiva, in which many of the principal Chiefs were to be performers. Capt. Clerke excused himself from ill health; but Capt. Cook and the other Gentlemen promised to attend.
The same day the King and his Chiefs dined on board the Resolution, and were entertained with music, the whole band having orders to play all the while they sat at dinner. They were highly delighted with the music, and would not suffer the performers to rest a moment.
About four in the afternoon, the pinnaces from both ships were ordered to be in readiness to take the company ashore, with their pendants and colours displayed, to do honour to a king and people, by whom we had been so hospitably entertained. More than 200 canoes attended us to shore, where a number of Chiefs were ready to receive us, who ail observed a profound silence at our landing, and conducted us to the place appointed for the entertainment. But we were much disappointed by the performers, who were far inferior to those of the Southern islands.
The only part of the performance that was tolerable, was their singing, with which the heiva or play concluded; the young princesses, the chiefs, and even the king himself joining in the chorus.
The play being ended, Capt. Cook acquainted the King that, with his permission,
he would exhibit some fire-works, that, if they did not frighten, would very
much astonish his people. The King very readily gave his consent; and the
engineer was ordered to begin his exhibition as soon as it was dark. On the
rising of the first sky-rocket, the Indians fled precipitately, and hid
themselves in the houses, or wherever they could find any shelter; at first
there were some thousand spectators; but in less than ten minutes there were not
fifty to be seen, the King and his attendants excepted, whom the Captain and the
gentlemen with the greatest difficulty persuaded to stay. When the second rose
up in the air, lamentations were heard from every quarter; and when the
water-rockets were played off, the King and his Chiefs were hardly to be
restrained. Other fire-works it was found dangerous to exhibit, as these had
already struck the spectators, the King as well as his people, with a general
panic. We therefore took leave of
In the evening of the 4th of February, all hands were mustered, and none were missing.
In the morning of the 5th, we cleared the harbour, shaping our course for Maw-wee, as we had been informed by the King, that in that island there was a fine harbour and excellent water. We had not been long under sail, when the King, who had omitted to take his leave of our Captain in the morning, as not suspecting our departure so sudden, came after the ships, accompanied by the young prince, his son, in a sailing canoe, bringing with them ten large hogs, a great number of fowls, and a small turtle (a great rarity) with bread-fruit in abundance. They also brought with them great quantities of cocoa-nuts, plantains, and sugar-canes.
Besides other persons of condition who acompanied the King, there was an old
priest, Kaoa, who had always shewn a particular attachment to Capt. Clerke, and
who had not been unrewarded for his civility. It being rather late when they
reached the ships, they staid on board but a few hours, and then all departed
except the old priest and some girls, who by the King's permission were suffered
to remain on board till they should arrive at some of the neighbouring isles. We
were now steering with a fine breeze, but just at the close of the evening, to
our great mortification,
The next day, seeing a large canoe between us and the shore, we hove-to for her
coming up, and to our great surprize perceived the old King, accompanied by
several of his Chiefs, having in their vessel the priest who had stolen the
silk, whom the King delivered to the Captain, at the same time requesting that
his fault might be forgiven. The King being told that his request was granted,
unbound him, and set him at liberty; telling the Captain that, seeing him with
the silk, he judged it was none of his own, and therefore ordered him to be
apprehended; and had taken this method of exposing him for injuring his friend.
This singular instance of Indian generosity and justice, ought not to be
forgotten. It appears, however, that this old priest, who had changed names, and
was proud of being called Bretanne, had slipt away from Mr. Bligh, master of the
Resolution, to whom he had pretended to discover a much more commodious
harbour, than that of Kakooa, which they had just left. As soon as they had
delivered the silk, which the Captain would have had the King to accept, they
departed, and had scarce reached the shore, when a heavy gale came on, with
thunder, lightning, and hard rain. We wore ship, and continued working off the
land all night, and soon lost sight of the Resolution, who, as well as the
Discovery, continued bea•ing about the island seven days successively, in
The next day the King came again on board, and mutual presents and mutual civilities were continued as usual: but about five in the afternoon, there came along-side a large canoe, with about 60 of their fighting men, all armed, with little or no provisions on board, and who seemed to have no good design. Our Captain observing their motions, ordered the guns to be shotted, and every man to his post. About six, they departed, without offering the least insult; but soon after we saw, upon a high hill, a large body assembled, who were observed to be gathering stones, and laying them in heaps. At dark they were seen to disperse; but great lights and fires were kept burning all night.
In the morning of the 13th, they again assembled, and began rolling the stones from the brink of the hill, in order, as we supposed, to divert our attention, but which rather served to awaken our fears. Our Captains looking upon this as an insult, ordered the guns to be levelled, and fired among them, and in ten minutes there was not an Indian to be seen near the place.
In the afternoon, the King came on board the Resolution, and complained to Capt. Cook of our killing two of his people, intimating at the same time, that they had not the least intention of hurting us. He continued on board some hours, amusing himself with seeing the armourers at work; and when he departed, requested that they might be permitted to make him a Pahoo-a, (an instrument they use in battle when they come to close quarters) which was readily granted.
From this time forward the natives became very tumultuous and unruly, and stole
every thing they could lay their hands on, with any tolerable chance of
escaping. They were fired upon, but
Capt. Cook having only a few marines with him, part of those who were placed as a guard to the carpenters employed upon the mast, did not think proper to renew the attack; but returned to the tents, ordering a strict watch to be kept during the night, and his whole force to be kept under arms till the matter should be accommodated. For this purpose, Mr. Edgar, our master, was sent with a message to the young prince, who from the beginning had behaved friendly, to acquaint him with the cause of the fray, and to demand the delinquent to be delivered up. The prince, instead of listening to his remonstrances, assumed another countenance, and Mr. Edgar was very roughly handled, and glad to make his escape with a sound beating.
The temper of the Indians was now totally changed, and they became every day more and more troublesome.
On the 14th, a vast multitude of them were seen together, making great
lamentation, and moving slowly along to the beating of a drum, that scarce gave
a stroke in a minute. From this circumstance, it was supposed they were burying
the dead, who had been killed the day before.
On the morning of the 15th, our great cutter, which was moored to the buoy, was missing from her moorings, and, upon examination, the boat's painter was found cut two fathoms from the buoy, and the remainder of the rope gone with the boat.
This gave cause to suspect that some villainy was concerting; and, in order to prevent the ill-consequences that might follow, both Captains met on board the Resolution, to consult what was best to be done on this critical occasion. The officers from both ships were present at this council, where it was resolved to seize the King, and to confine him on board till the boat should be returned.
With this view, early on the morning of the 16th, Capt. Cook, with Mr. Phillips,
Lieutenant of Marines, and nine of his men, went on shore, under cover of the
guns of both ships, to one side of the bay where the King resided; and Mr. King,
second Lieutenant of the Resolution, who had always been stationed with a guard
to protect the working party and the waterers on shore, went, as usual, to the
other side. The Indians, observing our motions, and seeing the ships warping
towards the towns, of which there were two, one on each side the bay, they
concluded that our design was to seize their marine. In consequence of which,
most of their large war canoes took the alarm, and were making off, when our
guns, loaded with grape and canister shot, drove them back; and the Captain and
his guard landed without opposition. We observed, however, that their warriors
were clothed in their military dress,
Besides Capt. Cook, whose death was universally deplored, Corporal Thomas, and three privates, Hinkes, Allen, and Fadget, fell victims to their fury; and three more of the marines were desperately wounded. Lieut. Phillips, who had received a wound between the shoulders with a pahooa, shot the man dead who had wounded him, just as he was going to repeat his blow: it seemed as if it was against our Commodore that their vengeance was chiefly directed, by whose order they supposed their king was to be forced on board, and punished at his discretion. Seeing him fall, they set up a great shout, and his body was instantly surrounded by the enemy, who snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, they shewed a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction.
Thus fell the greatest navigator that this or any other nation could boast; the
account of whose death was transmitted to England by Professor Page
[unnumbered] [illustration] [depiction of the murder of Captain Cook at Hawaii]
Representation of the Murder of Capt Cook at O'Why-ee
The Professor says, "The inhabitants shewed Capt. Cook (during his first stay) a
respect that bordered on adoration; but on his second landing they grew more
thievish than before; and at last, the cutter belonging to the Discovery was cut
loose and carried away. The day after this happened the Captain, with his
Lieutenant, and nine marines, landed. He went up to the residence of the chief
Terreboo. He was received with respect; but he found a great crowd assembled
with the chief. Some of them grew insolent as he made his complaints; one of
them in particular indulged his grimaces in so provoking a manner, that the
Captain discharged at him the shot of his fowling-piece. On which a general
commotion ensued. The Lieutenant fired, and killed one dead upon the spot; but
instead of dispersing, they now made a general attack, and though the marines
fired one round with great effect, the crowd was not intimidated, but rushed on
with such rapidity, that there was no time to load again. In the first onset
Capt. Cook and four of his people were unhappily killed upon the spot; and it
was with great difficulty that the Lieutenant and the remaining marines could
make their retreat, most of them wounded; and it would have been almost
impossible for them to have escaped, had it not been for the fire from the
pinnace and long-boat, that lay at some distance from the beach. Capt. Clerke
saw no possibility of revenging the loss of his gallant countryman but with
great slaughter, he therefore
The dead being past recovery, the distressed situation of the living was now to
be regarded. The Resolution was without her mast, and lay in a manner at the
mercy of the savages, who it was every moment expected, would have cut away her
moorings and drifted her on shore. It was therefore the first care of Capt.
Clerke, who succeeded to the command, to order the mast to be floated away, and
to get the tents and all our other baggage on board. For this purpose no time
was to be lost. While many of the natives lay dead upon the beach, it was
judged the properest time to take advantage of that interval of inactivity,
which always succeeds any considerable exertion of Indian ferocity. Lieutenant
King, who, as has been observed before, commanded the working-party on the
other side the bay, and who had cultivated a friendship with the priests, whose
dwellings were contiguous to the Morai, was all this while ignorant of what was
going forward; but could not help being under inexpressible anxiety at seeing
the extraordinary agitation by land, and hearing the firing from the ships at
sea, and the boats near the shore; but at the same time had assured the priests,
who were equally alarmed, that whatever might be the matter, they should be
safe; was not a little startled, when just at that critical moment, two great
shot from the Discovery cut a tree in the middle, under which some of them were
sitting, and split a piece from a rock in a direct line to their dwellings: for
Capt. Clerke being under no less concern for Lieut. King and those under his
command, and having no clue, but appearances to go by, had caused
Our next care was to recover the bodies of our dead. A strong party under Lieut.
King, were sent out in the pinnaces and boats, with a white flag, in token of
peace, to endeavour to procure them. They were met by Koah, a Chief, (with whom
Mr. King was well acquainted) and of note among the savages, at the head of a
vast multitude, without at first answering our signal; but Mr. King, commanding
the armed boats to stop, and going himself in a small boat alone, with a white
flag in his hand, had the satisfaction to be instantly understood; the men
threw off their war-mats; the women returned to the beach, and Koah shewed equal
confidence, by swimming off with a flag in his hand, and on entering the boat
where Mr. King sat, with as much unconcern as if nothing had happened: being
told
At this time it was thought prudent to stifle our resentment, and to reserve our vengeance till a more favourable opportunity. We were now in want of water; our sails and rigging in a shattered condition; our cordage bad, and our repairs not near finished; all therefore we had to do, was to remain upon the defensive till we were better provided.
At the close of the evening, as soon as it was dark, a canoe was heard paddling
towards the Resolution, in which were two men. As it approached, both sentinels
fired, but without hurting either of the men, though the balls went through the
bottom of the canoe. Notwithstanding this, the canoe came close under the
ship's stern; and one of the men calling out Tinne, Tinne, (the name Mr. King
was known by) whom the Priests had always
On the 19th, says our journalist, the father and mother of two girls, who had concealed themselves on board the ship, came in the dead of the night, in their canoe, loaded with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit, which they had been gathering in the day for their own subsistence, as a supply for their children, lest, from what had happened, they should have been suffered to die for want; acquainting us at the same time with a treacherous design of their countrymen to cut our cables, and drift the ships ashore. They were taken on board, and detained prisoners till morning, when not an Indian was to be seen near the harbour, but such as were old and feeble, and knew not how to make their escape. The informers were tenderly treated, had presents made them, and were afterwards dismissed, at their own desire, upon a neighbouring island, with every token of kindness.—The truth is, the Priests had desired the guard-boat to attend them, lest they should have been fired at, and interrupted by the guard-boats of the other ship, by which they might have been discovered, and perhaps put to death.
Among other incidents of the present day, Feb. 16, there was one which could not be understood. Two boys were seen swimming towards the ships, singing, as they approached the ships, a mournful and plaintive song. They had each a long spear in his hand, which, on boarding the Discovery, they delivered to the Officer on the deck, and then departed. Who sent them, or for what purpose, we never could learn.
On the 17th, the different promotions took place, and according to their succession, the Officers changed ships; Capt. Clerke went on board Page 311 the Resolution, and Mr. Gore, first Lieutenant of the Resolution, took the command of the Discovery.
On the 18th both ships were again warped near the shore, and a spring put upon their cables, in order to cover the boats which were sent to compleat our complement of water. On this motion crowds of inhabitants were seen to assemble, with a large black flag displayed, which we interpreted as a signal for war; but we afterwards found that it was part of their ceremony in burying their dead. Under this mistake a few guns were fired from the ships to disperse them, by which the King's nephew, Maiha Maiha, was wounded, and a poor woman lost her arm. This made a strong impression on the whole body of Indians, and we were left in quiet both this and the next day, to pursue our repairs and compleat our hold.
On the 19th they began again to be troublesome. In the morning, while the boats
were loading, at the well, the stones came about the watermen like hail, some of
them of more than a pound weight; one in particular was seen coming; but who
threw it, no one could tell. This being attended to, a native was observed to
creep out of a cavern, who, as soon as he had discharged his stone, retired back
to his place of shelter. Him we marked, and returned to our ships; and it being
now apparent that nothing was to be gained by fair means, orders were given to
strike terror among them, by pursuing them with fire and sword. About two in the
afternoon, all who were able to bear arms, as well sailors and artificers as
marines, were mustered, and preparations made to sustain them, while with
lighted torches they rowed on shore, and set fire to the S. E. town, pursuing
the frighted inhabitants while their
About four in the afternoon of the 20th, ten girls came down to the well, where the waterers were busy, with quantities of fruit, as much as they could carry, for which they would take nothing in return, only praying to be taken on board. This was denied them, as peremptory orders had been given by Capt. Clerke, forbidding the admission of any more of their women.
This day, in the morning, a Chief was seen coming down the hill, followed by a
number of boys, with a white flag displayed, and carrying boughs and green
branches in their hands. They came singing to the water side; but that did not
prevent their receiving the fire of a party that was placed as a guard. On
seeing his ensign answered
At nine in the morning of the next day, the same old Chief returned, attended by
a more numerous suit than before, having several large hogs added to his
peace-offerings; and with him, likewise, he brought the bones of Capt. Cook, his
back-bone, and the bones of his feet only excepted, which he promised to
produce the next visit he made. On examination, the head appeared to have been
scalped; the face was entirely gone; the hands had the flesh on, but scored and
salted; and, as he assured the Captain, most of the flesh besides was burnt. Our
Commander made signs to return the cutter, but was told it was broke up and
burnt for the iron. The arms belonging to the marines, who were killed, were
next demanded; but these, it was said, were carried up the country by common
people, and were irrecoverable. Some presents were made to this friendly Chief,
who departed well satisfied. We were now preparing to depart, when provisions of
all sorts came pouring in upon us faster than we could consume them. The Chief
kept his promise, and
This day we had the satisfaction of getting the foremast of the Resolution shipt, which was a work of great labour, and some difficulty, as the ropes were now become rotten, and unable to sustain the purchase; however, that being at length accomplished, and the repairs compleated, so far at least as our circumstances would allow, we bent our sails in the morning; and were visited by many of our former friends, among whom was the King's youngest son, a boy of about fourteen years of age, of whom Capt. Cook was remarkably fond; and the boy, in return, was no less attached to the Captain. He came to express his sorrow for the accident that had happened, which he did by a plentiful flow of tears. He gave us to understand, that his two brothers were killed, and that his father was retired to an inaccessible place. Capt. Clerke made him some presents that were pleasing to him, and he departed very much comforted.
About 7 in the evening, a breeze springing up in our favour, we unmoored, and
soon left
The reason assigned for our cold reception at first, was, because we had
introduced among their women a bad disorder, when at that harbour before, of
which many of their people had died.—But now, peace being established, all the
bad water was started from both ships, and a plentiful stock of good water
taken on board, to serve us during our long run to Kamshatska, for which we were
preparing. Here one of the Chiefs, named Noo-oh-a, expressed a desire to
accompany us in our voyage, when, being told that we were never more to return
to that island, he lamented the opportunity
Before our departure, an Indian brought on board our ship, a piece of iron, to be fashioned into a podooa, which, upon examination, appeared to be the bolt of some large piece of ship timbers, larger than any that our ships could produce. This excited the curiosity of the officers on board; but no farther discovery could be made, but that it had been taken from a part of a large ship that had been drifted on the coast since our leaving the island in 1778. It was of a paler colour than our iron; but of what nation, we were unable to discover.
From this harbour we sailed on the 9th, and visited the opposite side of the island, where we had likewise passed a part of the former winter. Here we were received with much kindness and hospitality; and here we purchased yams and potatoes for our summer's consumption, which the companies of both ships were glad to accept in exchange for their allowance of bread, that part of their food being both scanty and bad.
Besides the natural productions of the country, we purchased in these islands
many tons of salt, much of their cordage and cloth, and a great variety of
artificial curiosities, such as their weapons of war, their instruments for
fishing; their cloaks and coverlets; their caps, masks, nets, instruments of
music; their needles, thread, working tools, bracelets, ear-jewels, and, in
short, almost every thing that was new to us, or which was peculiar to them;
among which were some household
On the 15th, we made sail; and soon after were informed that Capt. Clerke was taken ill. We at first stood to the Westward, veering a little to the South, in search of a small island, named Modoo Pappapa, which, we were told, abounded in turtle. We continued this course till The 30th, when we were in lat. 20.19. N. long. 180.40. per watch. We now altered our course, and steered N. W.
April 1, we continued steering N. W. ½ W. lat. 21.46. N. long. 180.2.
On the 3d, we crossed the Northern Tropic, long. 177.39. E. steering N. W. by N. in a direct course for Kamshatska. On the 3d day, after leaving the island of Oneeheow, it began to blow a hard gale, which continued, with very little intermission, to the present day, when our ship became very leaky, and we were informed that the Resolution was much worse than the Discovery.
On the 9th, for the first time, since our leaving Oneeheow, or Nehu, as the sailors called it, we had an observation, and found ourselves in lat. 32.16. long. 160.40. E.
On the 10th, we observed a tropic bird hovering about the ship, and by her
motions we expected her to light, being far to the Northward of her proper
climate; however she left us, and made for the Resolution. In the evening it
began to blow, with heavy rain, and continued an unremitting gale till The
13th, when we were in lat. 39.50. very cold and foggy. As we now began to
approach the higher Northern latitudes, the flannel jackets
On the 15th, being in lat. 41.59. the signs of land increased. The weather being fine and clear, we seized this opportunity to search for the leak, and, knowing it to be forwards, we moved the sails from the fore sail-room, and found them wringing wet; but the leak was out of our reach; however, when the weather was fine, it gave us very little trouble.
On the 16th, the Resolution's boat came on board, and Capt. Gore and our first
Lieutenant went to visit Capt. Clerke, who still continued very ill. On their
return, they brought a dismal account of the condition of the Resolution; she
became leaky on the 7th, when it blew a tempest. On the carpenters going down to
the cockpit for lights, they were alarmed by finding themselves over their shoes
in water, and, upon further examination, the casks in the fish-room and
spirit-room were driving one against another, by which two casks of French
brandy were staved. They then searched forwards, where they found the coal-hole
six feet deep in water, and the ship's whole complement of paint destroyed;
several casks of shells and curiosities staved, the light-room deck blown up,
and the bulk-head between the gunner's store-room and the coal-hole, burst open.
In this alarming situation, they continued during the whole time that this
stormy weather lasted, pumping night and day; and every officer in the ship (the
Captain, who was ill, only excepted) took his turn with the common men, who
were sickening apace with fatigue; nor were
On the 18th, we lost sight of the Resolution; but by every appearance were at no great distance from land. Large pieces of timber drifted by us, and land birds innumerable were seen to the Westward. We were now in lat. 46.10. and our long. 160.25. running at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour.
On the 19th, we came in sight of the Resolution: and though it blew hard, they threw out the signal for us to make sail, from whence we concluded that the leak still distressed them. At noon we were in lat. 48.38. and long. 159.10.
On the 20th, we had a deep snow, attended with frost, by which our men were exposed to incredible hardships. It fell so heavy upon the decks and rigging, that it was next to impossible to keep them clear, or, not being clear, to make the ropes traverse. Fortunately it ceased freezing in the night.
On the 21st, we were in lat. 49.48. when we began to get every thing in readiness for coming to anchor.
On the 22d, we were in the latitude of London; the water of a milky colour, but
no soundings at eighty-five fathom. In the evening, the Resolution made the
signal to tack ship, and we
On the 23d, we came in sight of land, very barren, very rugged, and covered with snow; from whence we were distant not above a league, with our starboard tacks on board, the water near the shore black with wild fowl, and a sheet of ice skirting the land, covered with sea-lions, seals, and other amphibious animals. At half past ten, P. M. we were put about, finding by our logbook and watch, that we were fifty miles to leeward of our port.
On the 25th, we were out of sight of land, with a heavy gale, a fall of snow, piercing cold, and twenty of our hands frost-nipped.
The 26th, it blew hard from the N. E. We kept working to windward, which doubled our labour; and our concern for our Commodore increased so much the more, as we judged by our own sufferings what must be the fate of the Resolution, that was much less able to struggle with the storm than the Discovery. The storm continuing with sleet and snow, three men could scarce do the work of one.
Amidst these complicated distresses, our leak increased to an alarming degree.
On the 28th, we made 17 inches in three hours. The wind dying away, we tried the current, and found we drifted half a mile an hour to the Southward. A man was sent up to the mast-head, to look round for the Resolution, but without succeeding. We now gave her over for lost.
On the 29th, we stood in for the land, and at two in the afternoon, we came in
sight of the entrance of the bay of Kamshatska, then distant between seven and
eight miles to the Southward. We made sail, and stood right in; but finding it
froze
Early next morning, we once more attempted the entrance of the bay, and finding the ice drifted, we conceived hopes that we might be able to force a passage through the loose ice, which, now the weather was fine, did not appear so formidable as before. About noon, a pleasant breeze sprung up, and we directed our course to a flag we saw displayed just within the bay, and happily succeeded, drooping our anchor in twenty fathom water, within less than three leagues of our intended harbour. In about half an hour, while our boats were still looking out for a passage, we observed at a distance two boats making towards us, one of which we knew to belong to the Resolution; the other belonged to the Russians. No joy could exceed that which the certainty of the safety of the Resolution spread through the whole ship's company of the Discovery. She had been in port ever since the 27th, and had given us over for lost, never expecting to see us more. She had met with some damage in her sails and rigging; but by her fortunately hitting the harbour, she had escaped much of the distress that we suffered from the severity of the weather.
Early on the first of May, we weighed, having the Resolution's boat to direct us. Soon after day-light, we were within the light-house near the entrance of the harbour, but were opposed by a strong tide from the shore, which drifting huge pieces of floating ice against us, made our further progress both dangerous and fatiguing but, having the wind fair, about five in the evening we came to in sight of the town, and soon after dropt anchor near the Resolution.
On the 2d, the Resolution unmoored, and both ships came to, and moored within a mile of the town, and within a cable's length of the ice, which entirely shut up the head of the bay.—Here we found only one small sloop, about fifty tons, which, as soon as the ice was clear, was bound on a trading voyage to the Northward.—We had no sooner dropt anchor than our boat was ordered out, and our Captain, with several other gentlemen, went to visit Capt. Clerke, and to take his orders for our future proceedings. We found him still growing weaker and weaker; we therefore shortened our stay.
On the 3d, some of the principal officers and gentlemen went on shore, and were
received by a subaltern, who now had the command of the fort, situated close by
a little miserable town, called St. Peter and St. Paul, which, by its
appearance, could not be supposed to furnish provisions for the ships crew a
single week. We soon learnt that the Governor lived at a town called
Bolcheritsk, distant about 135 miles; and that an express had been sent to him
on the 29th, about noon, in a sledge drawn by dogs, to notify our arrival. The
subaltern, in the mean time, shewed us every civility. We found on our landing
a sledge drawn by dogs, in readiness to receive our Commander, and to conduct
him to the residence of the officer already mentioned, where he found some
gentlemen belonging to the Resolution. It was not, however, a little strange,
that though we were expected, and that the Empress of Russia had given orders
to her Governor to furnish us with every accommodation in his power, that not a
person was to be found that understood any other language than that of the
natives of the place, and of Russia; neither of which languages was
intelligible to
They were hospitably received, and entertained with stewed fish, venison-soups, and other dishes, dressed after the manner of the country; and the officer who now had the command, behaved with an uncommon degree of civility, or, more properly, servility, by paying every attention that his circumstances would admit, to make the Commodore's situation tolerable. He had made him understand, that at the distance of about sixteen wrests, at a town called Paratounka, there lived a priest, who might possibly be able to converse with him; and with that view, he, the very next day, sent an express to invite him to the fort, at the same time intimating that the Governor was a German, who could talk all languages, which accounts for the omission before complained of: and indeed, as it afterwards appeared, we were expected here the preceding summer, and that our arrival was now unlooked for. On board, the carpenters were busy in stripping the ships bows, where they found the leak of the Resolution to have been chiefly seated. The larboard bow had been stript of its sheathing, and the oakum had been washed out. The sailors were employed in getting the sick on shore, with every part of the ships stores that stood in need of revisal; and though the weather continued piercing cold, no time was lost in forwarding the repairs.
On the 4th, one of our boats, in putting the astronomer's assistant on shore at the influx of the tide, was suddenly encircled by the floating ice, in such a manner as not to be able to move one way or the other; another boat, sent to her relief, was soon enclosed in the same manner, and till Page 325 the return of the tide, both were forced to remain in that deplorable situation, not a person on board daring to trust himself among the floating ice, to go to their assistance. About twelve at night they were released, and the icey prisoners returned on board, almost perished with cold.
A still worse accident happened to Lieut. King, the ingenious writer of the third volume of Cook's voyage, on his first attempt to land; for having no clue to direct him to the village before him, in passing the trackless snow and ice, the ice broke under him, and for a moment he disappeared. Providentially he rose again clear; and the man who attended him having a boat-hook in his hand, instantly threw it to him; he catched it, and laying it across two pieces of ice, recovered his footing.
On the 5th, six gentlemen arrived from Bolcheritsk, among whom was a merchant
who came to trade for skins; some of which he purchased from us, as we thought,
at great prices; but as we afterwards found, for little more than half their
value. These are all monopolized by the Russian Company, already mentioned in
our account of the last summer's voyage, and not a skin is to be had from the
Kamshatskadales. This gentleman was accompanied by the Governor's Secretary, who
could speak both German and Dutch, and who brought a letter from the Governor,
written in German, complimenting the Commodore on his arrival, tendering his
best services, and excusing his absence; adding, at the same time, that when he
was made acquainted with the necessaries of which we stood in need, he would
give immediate orders for their supply, as far as was in his power; and that he
would embrace the first opportunity of waiting upon the Commodore. It
On the 6th the Ruffian gentlemen were entertained on board the ships, Mr. Webber acting as interpreter to the merchant, and the governor's secretary understanding a little French, was well enough understood to make the conversation and the bottle pass jovially round. About ten at night the company parted; and, In the morning of the 7th, Capt. Gore, attended by Lieut. King of the Resolution and Mr. Webber, and accompanied by the merchant and Ruffian secretary, set out for Bolcheritsk (Bolcheraika says our Journalist, mistaking the name of the river for the name of the town) where, after a most fatiguing journey, they arrived on the 13th, and were received by Major Behm the Governor, with a politeness that did honour to the post he filled.
After the usual salutations, they entered into general conversation, when our
gentlemen soon discovered that the Major was not only a man of breeding, but of
general knowledge; that he had been made acquainted by his court with our
intention of touching at Kamshatska; that the character of our first Commander,
Capt. Cook was known to him by the historical relations of his former
expeditions; and that the whole route, that he was supposed to pursue in the
present expedition, he had deduced from his own observations, aided by the
charts and maps of which he
By this time dinner was ready, and the gentlemen were invited to partake of what had been provided; they would have excused themselves on account of dress, but the Governor would admit no apology.
After dinner they took occasion to deliver to the Governor their instructions,
with a list of those articles of which the ships stood most in need;
representing at the same time the shattered condition of the ships, and how
much they were in want of sails and cordage, as well as provisions, having met
with no supply of beef or bread from the time they left England in 1776, to the
present day; nor of tobacco, a chief article with our sailors, though for three
months they had been under the necessity of subsisting without. The Governor
heard him with attention, and being sensible that the gentlemen must be
The gentlemen were not more gratified than astonished, at finding the spirit of a prince in a Governor sent to the remotest corner of the earth to preside over a semi-barbarous people, living in a district the most deplorable and uncultivated; but they were still more surprised, when, upon enquiring as to the price of the several articles they stood in need of, they were told, that nothing more was required of them, than an attestation of those things being received which should be in his power to furnish, in justification of his own conduct, in not having been wanting in duty to his Sovereign, whose commands he had received, to exert his utmost endeavours to contribute every assistance to promote a design so liberally set on foot by her favourite ally the King of Great-Britain.
And recollecting that tobacco was an article highly prized by the mariners, and
not to be purchased, at any price in his district, our gentlemen, before their
departure from Bolcheritsk, found a quantity, not less than 400 weight,
deposited in their house, "labelled as a present to the seamen
We should be wanting therefore in justice to this worthy Governor, were we to pass over his behaviour to us unnoticed; which was such as did honour to his feelings as a man, and to her Imperial Majesty as an officer.
Our gentlemen, after being entertained in a most magnificent manner for several days, was accompanied in their return by the Governor himself; who, after enforcing his orders for our immediate supply from the country, came to see that his orders had been obeyed at the fort. He had already ordered 13,000 weight of meal to be collected from different districts at a great distance, and conveyed to us at whatever expence, accompanied with 20 head of horned cattle. These our sailors rejoiced to see, and, though skeletons compared with those of England, were received by us with an eagerness not easily to be exceeded; for not having had the relish of fresh beef for more than three years, the very scrapings of the bones would have been to our sailors, at this time, a treat infinitely more grateful, than at home they would have thought the most luxurious feast.
On the 16th, while the gentlemen were still at Bolcheritsk, a small bullock, procured by the serjeant of the fort, was killed, and divided between the crews of both ships. The same evening, John M'Intosh, the carpenter, mate of the Resolution died, and was decently buried, and the aged priest at Parantounka attending.
It was the 23d before the Governor and officers arrived at Paratounka, in the vicinage of which the priest resided, of whom we have already spoken. With him the Governor spent the afternoon, but when night came he slept at the fort, if fort a mere log-house could be called, without either gun or platform to place a gun.
On the 25th the pinnace from the Resolution was manned, and properly equipped to bring him on board. He was saluted with 13 guns from the Resolution, and 11 from the Discovery; and when he entered the ship he was received with music, and with all the honours that circumstances would admit; and he was so well pleased with his reception, that he staid two days and two nights on board: during which time, Capt. Clerke being ill, committed the care of entertaining him to the officers with whom he was acquainted, who did not fail to make it agreeable. Some very noble presents were made him at his departure, consisting of curiosities collected from every part of the world, with a gold watch, two fowling-pieces, a brace of silver-mounted pistols, and other valuable articles of English manufacture; to all which were added, near 100 gallons of brandy from the ships stores, as a present from the sailors out of their allowance, they having, at their own request, desired that so much should be spared out of their allowance for grog, in lieu of the tobacco that his Excellency had generously ordered to be divided amongst them gratis; tobacco at that time had been in such estimation, that he who had been provident enough to make a reserve, sold it nearly at the price of silver.
Orders were now given to get every thing on board, and prepare for sailing as
fast as possible: both ships had been stripped of their sheathing
Having now got the meal on board, the crews were served with an allowance of half rye and half flour; which, however, not being accustomed to, they did not very well relish, though it was found to be very wholesome. The Governor had made Capt. Clerke a present of a cow, for which it was necessary to provide provender; and large quantities of ducks, geese and poultry were taken on board, to supply the want of other live stock; for here they had no sheep, nor any other domestic animal, except dogs, which serve the natives both for horses and hunting: nor was there a cow in the country, that we saw, except what the Governor sent to Capt. Clerke, and one in possession of the priest. What was remarkable, though the sea seemed almost covered with wild ducks, and sea-fowl of various sorts, they were all so shy, that very few were killed.
We had now been here a month, when, On the 4th of June, being his Majesty's birthday, the same was celebrated with great magnificence on board and on shore. The ships were dressed with streamers, and with the colours of all nations, and a flag was displayed at the tents. The Russian gentlemen were sumptuously entertained, on board, and the common men were served with double allowance of meat and liquor; and being permitted to divert themselves on shore, many of them made parties, and traversed the woods in pursuit of game, with which they were told the country abounded. But, as they were ignorant of their haunts, they met with no success.
Before our departure, packets were entrusted to the care of the Governor, to be forwarded to England by the way of Petersburgh, both for government and to private friends; these we have since been informed were carefully transmitted. And now, having all things in readiness, our full complement of wood and water on board, and of every necessary the country afforded, and waiting only for a wind, Early on the 12th of June we weighed, and sailed, directing our course to the northward; but were detained in the bay till The 15th, when we were alarmed with a noise louder than the loudest thunder, and presently were almost blinded with the fall of ashes, which in less than an hour, covered the decks all over from stern to stern, an inch thick; among which were mixed pumice-stones as large as walnuts, and many smaller stones, which seemed to have received no alteration by fire. We were all driven down between decks, but about ten in the morning were released by the shower ceasing. On looking round, we found they issued from a volcano at the distance, as we supposed, of about twenty miles, then bearing from us W. S. W. During this eruption, we were not only obliged to retire ourselves, but to fasten down the hatches fore and aft; so that what with the closeness of our confinement, and the sulphureous fumes from the ashes, we were almost suffocated. We were therefore no sooner released, than we weighed anchor and steered to the eastward.
On the 17th and 18th we continued our course E. and E. by N. On the 19th steered E. by N. Lat. 54.56.
On the 20th came in sight of land, high, and covered with snow, called by
Beering, Kronotskoi-noss,
On the 21st we continued to steer E. N. E. came in sight of Kamtschatska-noss, saw a dead whale, two seals, and a number of sea-lions.
On the 22d we stood to the N. E. and, seeing a change in the colour of the water, we sounded, but found no ground at 100 fathom. We continued the same course till the 25th, when we were in lat. 59.9. and long. 168.30. E.
On the 26th we changed our course E. N. E. and finding the sea covered with gulls and shags, we sounded, but found no ground at 120 fathom.
On the 27th we stood E. one-half N. and found ourselves by observation in lat. 59.57. long 17. E. We changed our course and stood N. N. W.
On the 28th, early in the morning, we came in sight of land, very high and covered with snow, the extreme point of which bore N. E. distance about 6 leagues. We continued our course along shore, with regular soundings at about 54 fathom, free from reefs, and a very bold shore. We steered this course till The 30th, at noon, when we were in lat. 62.1. Thadeus's Noss came in sight, beyond which the coast seemed to stretch directly North. Here it is observable, that on the Asiatic coast, the sea near the shore is everywhere of a convenient depth for sailing; while on the opposite shore it continues so shallow for several degrees together, as not to be navigated but with the utmost caution.
On the 1st of July, the weather began to grow hazy, with thick fogs. We shaped our course for the point in our chart, called Tschutkoski-Noss, which with that of Thadeus, form the N. E. and S. W. points of the gulph of Anadyr.
The 3d in the morning, when the fogs left us and it began to rain. At ten in the morning, saw a very high point of land, bearing from us N. N. E. distance about 7 leagues. We hauled upon a wind, and stood E. N. E. till two in the afternoon, when we passed a small island, called by the Russians St. Nicholas; in some parts very high and covered with snow. Lat. 63.45. long. 187.
On the 4th at one in the morning, we bore away N. ½ E. and about noon, the next day, saw land from W. to N. E. appearing like two islands. These were the islands of St. Diomede, in the midway between the two Continents. At four o'clock we hauled up to W. N. W. being near the East Cape of the Asiatic Continent, and sounding from 26 to 29 fathom. At ten at night, the weather being clear, we had an opportunity of seeing the remarkable peeked hill near Cape Prince of Wales, on the American side, and the East Cape of Asia, with the two connecting islands of St. Diomede between them.
On the 6th we continued coasting from N. ½ W. to N. ½ E. with the land to the westward high and snowy. Lat. 67.10. long. 191. E. On the 7th, saw ice in a large body to the eastward, distance about 2 or 3 leagues, and about noon passed several large masses of ice. We tacked and stood N. W. by W. with a stiff gale and heavy snow.
On the 8th fell in with the ice again in a solid body; at the same time bore away S. S. W.
On the 9th, at three in the morning, we hauled up along side the solid ice, freezing cold all day. Lat. 69.12.
On the 10th continued our course all the morning, and at nine passed a large
field of loose ice,
On the 11th we found ourselves surrounded with ice. We kept working to the S. E. passing many large fields of ice, covered with sea-cows. We kept luffing up and bearing away, till with some difficulty we got through. Lat. by observation 67.40. long. 188.40. We continued working through the ice till The 14th, when by observation we were in lat. 69.37. We continued bearing away to the northward, till The 18th, when by observation we were in lat. 70.28. long. 194.54. and being very near the ice, a large white bear passed us in the water, but made for the ice at a great rate. In half an hour, we saw multitudes of them upon the ice, making to the eastward, when we observed the sea-cows, as the bears approached them, flying like sheep pursued by dogs.
On the 20th we came in sight of land at the distance of about 5 or 6 leagues, bearing from S. to S. E. sounded from 24 to 21 fathom. Our course being W. ½ S. all the morning, at 3 P. M. we altered it, and stood to the southward and westward. This day the crew of the Resolution had the good fortune to fall in with two large white bears, and to kill them both, the two fore tusks of the largest weighed 436lb.
On the 21st we stood from W. ½ N. to W. N. W. and at six o'clock we passed a
large island of ice, on which were whole herds of sea-cows of an enormous size.
We fired several muskets among them, which sent them to the water with dreadful
yellings. At nine in the evening we came in sight of the American shore, distant
about six leagues. We steered all night W. by N. and next
On the 22d, about two A M. we again stood S. S. W. but at six saw the ice all round us from S. E. to N. W. hauled our wind upon our larboard tack, and stood S. S. E. We were all this day luffing up and bearing away to avoid the ice, which was on every side in sight, in many frightful shapes. On the morning of the 23d it came on to blow very hard, and, before noon, we found ourselves closely blocked up in the ice, and could see it all round us in a solid body, to a great distance. At the same time we saw the Resolution bearing N. E. ½ E. some miles off, which was the last sight we had of her during the whole day. In this horrid situation we handed all our sails, unbent our fore-top-sail, and moored ship with both our ice anchors, one to each bow.
We now began to reflect on our condition; the winter drawing on apace; our
provisions short, and what we had but very indifferent, and no relief to be
expected; our people's spirits began to sink, and it was with difficulty that
they were persuaded to exert themselves for their own deliverance. Fortunately
for us, we had, in the evening, a shift of wind from W. N. W. with a steady
breeze, when our Captain, looking over our starboard quarter, discerned the ice
to the southward, seemingly to leave the ship, and soon heard a crash, as if a
thousand rocks had been rent from their foundations; which we afterwards
perceived to be the parting of the ice in different directions, and soon after
found ourselves released. We instantly
On the 24th we continued our course E. S. E. and came in fight of the Resolution, which had likewise received much damage about her bows. We were now clear of the ice, and, till three in the afternoon, sailed in company, till we came up with a solid body of ice, on which we saw a number of amphibious animals, some of them very large. We instantly got out and manned our boats, and in three hours returned with eleven of the largest, about which all hands were employed the next day in skinning and cutting them up for blubber.
On the 25th we passed several fields of ice. We steered N. E. one-half E. and at noon was at the extreme of the easternmost land in sight, being then in lat. 69.12. and, by lunar observation, in long. 187.16. East of London. It was now excessive cold; the snow froze as it fell. The blocks were choaked up, and the ropes increased by the frost to double their real size. In this condition it is easy to conceive, the fatigues to which the poor sailors were exposed; yet by a little encouragement, increasing their allowance of grog, and giving them plenty of provisions, they continued their labour with cheerfulness and astonishing perseverance.
On the 27th we found ourselves involved again among the loose ice, some of which
it was out of our power to escape; and the leak still continuing rather to
increase than abate, our Captain, with
On the 28th, at two in the morning we came in sight of the Asiatic shore, very high and covered with snow, distance about 7 or 8 leagues, we made sail and stood to the southward. About noon we found ourselves in lat. 67.11. by double altitudes, and in long. 188.10. E. the extreme of the easternmost end of the ice distant about 6 leagues. At ten at night we saw a great number of ducks, geese, and sea-parrots very near us, by which we judged land could not be far off.
On the 29th at noon we were in lat. 66.50. and long. 188.27. but no land in sight.
On the 30th we steered till noon to the S. E. with a steady breeze, and came in
sight of two islands right a-head, distant about five or six leagues. The
weather then became thick and hazy, and though we were certain that the main
land of Asia and America were at no great distance, we could see neither till
about four o'clock in the afternoon; when the weather clearing up, we saw a
passage or streight, to which we bore away, and found the two continents at
seven o'clock on each side of us. Lat. 66. thirteen leagues asunder, beyond
which they diverge to N. E. by E. and W. N. W. so as, in lat. 69. to be 300
miles asunder. This streight we called
On the 31st we passed Tschutuskoi-noss, called by the sailors Tuskan-noss, and soon came in sight of Cook's town, which we visited the last season, as has already been mentioned, and which we now passed with regret. On the 1st of August we were in lat. 64.23. long. 189.15. the coast of Asia extending from N. W. by W. distant about 12 leagues.
Nothing remarkable till August the 5th, when we had an observation, and found ourselves in lat. 63.37.
On the 7th at noon we were by observation in lat. 59.38. and in long. 183.45. and at no great distance from the land. At four o'clock having a dead calm, the companies of both ships employed themselves in fishing, and very fortunately caught a great number of large cod, which were equally distributed among the crews. To this place we gave the name of the bank of Good Providence; and as soon as the breeze sprung up, we made sail and stood to S. W.
On the 9th at noon, we were by observation in lat. 57. and long. 183.36.14. The weather being more moderate than it had been for several days, the signal was made to speak with the Resolution, when on enquiry, we were informed that the Captain was past recovery, and that the crew began to grow sickly. At this time we had not one man on the sick list on board the Discovery.
On the 10th we continued our course S. W. by W. and on the 12th at noon having had contrary winds, we were in lat. 56.37. with the ship's head to the S. W.
In the evening of the 13th we had the Resolution's boat on board, to compare time, who brought the disagreeable news of the Captain's being given over by the surgeon.
On the 15th being in soundings, and the weather calm, we hove to, in order to get some fish for the sick, and a few cod were caught and sent on board the Resolution to be distributed accordingly.
On the 17th the wind that had been against us for some days past shifted in our favour; and at nine in the morning the man at the mast-head called out land to the N. W. which was found to be the island of Mednor, laid down to the S. E. of Beering Island, lat. at noon. 54.50.
Nothing remarkable till the 21st, when early in the morning the man at the mast-head again came in sight of land. It was then at a very great distance, and upon our starboard bow, but before night we were only distant from the mouth of Kamshatska bay, 12 or 13 leagues.
On the 22d at nine in the morning we had the Resolution's boat on board, to acquaint our Captain with the death of our Commodore. We were then within sight of the flag, at the mouth of Kamshatska-bay, of which mention has already been made; and the wind being favourable, we continued our course for the entrance of the harbour, which then bore from us W. S. W. lat. at noon 52.24.
On the 23d a little before midnight, we came to anchor within the light-house.
On the 24th our Captain, being now Commodore, made the signal to get under way by towing; all the boats were accordingly got out, and the Commodore went on board the Resolution, where it was resolved, for the greater convenience of repairing the ships, and for erecting the tents and forge, to go within the upper harbour. And about four in the afternoon both ships came to, and were moored in three fathom and a half water, muddy bottom.
The old serjeant, who still commanded at the fort, came with a present of berries for Capt. Clerke. He seemed much affected when he was shewn his coffin, and was told it was his particular desire to be buried on shore.
Early next morning the tents were erected, and the sick were put on shore.
From the time we set sail out of this bay in June, till the present day, we had been in no harbour to refit; and had been driven from island to island among the ice, till our ships had in a manner lost their sheathing, and were otherwise in a shattered condition; we were therefore happy in arriving safe.
August 25th, an express was sent to Bolcheritsk, to acquaint the new governor,
Capt. Shmaleff, with our arrival, and with the death of our late Commander, at
the same time requesting a fresh supply of cattle. Another express was sent to
Paratounka, to desire the attendance of the priest, in order to consult with him
concerning the interment of Capt. Clerke, whose desire was, to be buried in his
church. While we were waiting the issue of these messages, the several
promotions took place that followed in consequence of the Commander's death.
Mr. Gore went on board the Resolution, and Mr. King, first Lieut.
The weather being now temperate and the country delightful, the officers and gentlemen chose to sleep in their marquees on shore. It was however thought expedient to shew every mark of respect to the Russian officers, who, though not of the first rank, were notwithstanding the only people with whom we had any concern, or with whom we could have any communication; they were therefore frequently invited to dinner, and they often attended.
On the 26th the priest arrived, when Capt. Gore acquainted him with the death of
our commander, and of his desire to be buried in his church. The good old
gentleman seemed much concerned, but started several difficulties, and appeared
very unwilling to comply with the dying request of the deceased. He urged
several reasons to shew the impropriety of it; those of most weight were, that
the church was soon to be pulled down; that it was every winter three feet deep
in water; and that in a few years no vestige of it would remain, as the new
church was to be erected near the town of Awatska, upon a drier and more
convenient spot. He therefore advised the remains of the Commander to be
deposited at the foot of a tree, the scite of which was to be included in the
body of the new church, where the Captain's bones might
All hands were now busy at work on their different employments. The Discovery, on being examined, was found to be in a most wretched condition; many of her timbers beneath the wale shaken, and some of her planks rotten, and for want of others to supply their places, were forced to be shifted.
The 29th was appointed for the interment; and to make the funeral the more solemn, every officer was desired to appear in his uniform; the marines to be drawn up under arms, and the common men to be dressed as nearly alike as possible, in order to attend the corpse from the water-side to the grave. All this was readily complied with, and the procession began about ten in the morning, when minute guns from the ships were fired, and the drums, muffled as usual, beat the dead march. When the corpse arrived at the grave, it was deposited under the triple discharge of the marines; and, the grave being covered, it was fenced in by piles driven deep in the ground, and the inside afterwards filled up with stones and earth, to preserve the body from being devoured in the winter by bears or other wild beasts, who are remarkable for their sagacity in scenting out the bodies of dead passengers, when they happen to perish and are buried near the roads.
This ceremony over, an escutcheon was prepared and neatly painted by Mr. Webber,
with the Captain's coat of arms properly emblazon'd, and placed in the church of
Paratounka, and underneath the following inscription:
Another inscription was fixed upon the tree under which he was interred. This tree was at some distance from the town, and near the hospital, round which several people had already been buried; but none so high upon the hill as the spot pointed out for the grave of Capt. Clerke. The inscription placed on this tree was nearly the same as that in the church of Paratounka, and was as follows: Beneath this Tree lies the BODY of CAPTAIN CHARLES CLERKE, COMMANDER of his Britannic Majesty's Ships the Resolution and Discovery, Which Command he succeeded to on the 14th of February, 1779, on the Death of Captain JAMES COOK, Who was killed by the Natives of some Islands he discovered in the SOUTH SEA, on the Date above. CAPTAIN CLERKE died at Sea, of a lingering Illness, on the 22d Day of AUGUST, 1779, In the 38th year of his AGE. And was INFERRED on the 30th following.
On this occasion the inhabitants of both towns, and those of the whole country for many miles round, attended; and the crews of both ships were suffered to continue ashore, and to divert themselves, each as he liked best. It was the Captain's desire that they should have double allowance for three days successively, and all that while to be excused from other duty than what the ordinary attendance in the ships required; but the season being far advanced, and a long track of unknown sea to pass before we could reach China, the officers representing the hardships and inconveniencies that so much lost time might bring upon themselves, they very readily gave up that part of the Captain's bequest, and returned to their respective employments early the next day.
On the 4th of September, an Ensign arrived with a letter from the Governor to Capt. Gore, acquainting him, that orders had been given about the cattle; that the bearer was to remain, to take care that nothing should be wanted that the garrison could supply; and that on the arrival of a sloop from Okotzk, which was daily expected, he would himself supply his place.
The Ensign farther informed Capt. Gore, that the sloop was laden with provisions
and stores of all sorts for the use of the ships; but expressed some
apprehensions for her safety, as the boats had been looking out for her several
days. This news was of too much importance to be slighted. Accordingly, On the
3d the pinnaces and beats from both ships were sent to the entrance of the bay,
to assist, in case she should be in sight, in towing her 〈◊〉 but it was
As soon as the Lieutenant had executed his commission, and delivered up the
stores to the Commodore, he took his leave, and returned to Bolcheritsk; and the
ships being lightened afore, and their bows heaved up dry, so that the
carpenters could get at the leaks, the Captains and principal officers finding
little else to amuse them, made a party to scour the woods for game; but this
proved the worst season in the year for hunting. They had been told, that
rein-deer, wolves, foxes, beavers, and stone-rams, every where abounded in the
forests of this country; and they had promised themselves great sport in
pursuing them; but after staying out full two days and nights, during which time
they had been exposed to several severe storms, they returned much fatigued,
without having been able to kill a single creature. The parties who had been
sent out to wood and water had succeeded much better. As soon as the ships were
ready to launch, they were ready to compleat the hold. In short, the utmost
dispatch was made to hasten our departure, so that by the latter end of
September
On the 12th of June, when we left the harbour of Kamshatska, the spring had but just begun to announce the approach of summer, by the budding of the trees, and the springing of the grass; but now, on our return, it was matter of surprize to find the fruits ripe, and the harvest in full perfection. The cattle were mere skin and bone, which we were glad to accept at first coming; but those that were now sent us were fine and fat, and would have made no bad figure in Smithfield-market. The grass was in many places as high as our knees, and the corn, where any grew, bore the promising appearance of a fine crop. In short, from the most dreary, barren, and desolate aspect, that any habitable country could present, this was become one of the most delightful. Mr. Nelson reaped a rich harvest of rare plants, and had the additional pleasure of gathering them in their most exalted state.
In this interval of idle time, between compleating our repairs and clearing the
harbour, we had leisure to take a view of the town near the shore, where we
first moored, and that of Paratounka, where the priest lived, and where the
church was situated. These towns have received some improvement since they
became subject to the Rus+sians, but are still most wretched dwellings. The
houses are built (if we may call that building, which is half dug out of the
earth, and half 〈◊〉 upon poles) in two different forms, one for their
Their winter habitation is made by digging a square hole in the earth, about five or six feet deep, the length and breadth being proportioned to the number of people that are to live in it. At each corner of this square hole they set up a thick post, and in the intermediate space between these corner posts, they place other posts at certain distances, and over these they lay balks, fastening them together with strong cords, which they make of nettles prepared in the manner of hemp. Across these they place other balks, in the manner of a bridge, then cover the whole with thatch, leaving a square opening in the middle, which serves at once for door, window, and chimney. On one side of this square is their fire-place, and on the opposite side is ranged their kitchen-furniture. On the two other sides are a kind of broad benches made with earth, on which each family lie, and in one of these huts or houses there live several families. To enter these huts by the only opening at top, they use a ladder, not made with rounds between two sides, like ours, but consisting only of narrow slips of wood fastened to a plank. This ladder the women mount with great agility, with children at their backs; and though the smoke would blind and suffocate those who are not used to it, yet the Kamshatskadales find no inconvenience from it.
Their summer huts, called balagans, are made by fixing up posts about fourteen feet above ground, and laying balks over them as before. On these they make a floor, and then raise a roof, which they thatch with grass. To these balagans they have two doors, which they ascend by the same kind of ladder.
In the winter they use the balagans for magazines, the thatch secures what they lay up in them from rain, and by taking away the ladder, it becomes inaccessible to wild beasts and vermin.
It being summer, we had no access to their winter dwellings, which were all shut up, and they were not over fond of exposing their poverty; for though they have little to boast of, they are not without pride. The whole furniture of the commonality consists of dishes, bowls, troughs, and cans; their cans are made of birch bark, their other utensils of wood, which till the Russians introduced iron among them, they hollowed with instruments made of stone or bone; but with these tools their work was tedious and difficult. In these bowls they dress their food, though, being wood, they will not bear the fire.
In the winter the men are employed in hunting, making sledges, and fetching wood; and the women in weaving nets, and spinning thread.
In the spring the rivers begin to thaw, and the fish that wintered in them to go towards the sea; the men therefore in this season are busied in fishing, and the women in curing what they catch.
They chiefly catch the salmon, which are very plenty and very delicious, by spearing, at which they are as aukward as at shooting.
In the summer the men build both their winter and summer huts, train their dogs,
and make their houshold utensils and warlike instruments; but the women make all
the clothing, even to the shoes. Their clothes, for the most part, are made of
the skins of land and sea-animals, particularly deer, dogs, and seals; but
sometimes they use the skins of birds, and frequently those of different
animals in the same garments. They commonly
They are filthy beyond imagination. They never wash their hands or faces, nor pare their nails. They eat out of the same dish with the dogs, which they never wash. Both men and women plait their hair in two locks, which they never comb; and those who have short hair, supply the locks with false. This is said of the Kamshatskadales, who live more to the North; those in the towns which we saw, had learnt of the Russians to be more cleanly.
They are very superstitious: and the women in particular pretend to avert
misfortunes, cure diseases, and foretel future events, by muttering
incantations over the fins of fishes, mingled with a certain herb, which they
gather from the woods with much labour. They pretend also to judge of good and
bad fortune, by the lines of the hands, and by their dreams, which they relate
to each other as soon as they awake. They dread going near the burning
mountains, lest the invisible beings that inhabit them should hurt them; and
think it a sin to drink or to bathe in the hot springs, with which their country
abounds, because they suppose those springs to be heated by the evil spirits
that produce them. They are said never to bury their dead; but, binding a strap
round the neck of the corpse, drag it to the next forest, where they leave it to
be eaten by the bears, wolves, or other wild inhabitants. They have a notion
that they who are eaten with dogs will drive with fine dogs in another world.
They throw away all the
The country is said to abound with wild beasts, which constitute the principal riches of the inhabitants; particularly foxes, sables, stone-foxes, and hares, marmots, ermins, weasles, bears, wolves, rein-deer, and stone-rams; but our gentlemen were much disappointed, who went in pursuit of them. The only game they killed was a she-bear, though they diverted themselves in hunting with the natives for several days: nor were they much more successful in shooting; even the sea-fowl were hardly to be come at, they were so watchful. They have a species of weasle, called the glutton, whose fur is so much more esteemed than all others, that they say the good spirits are clothed with it. The paws of this animal are white as snow, but the hair of the body is yellow. Sixty rubles (about 12 guineas nearly) have been given for a skin, and a sea-beaver for a single paw.
Of the bears, the inhabitants make good use; of their skins they make their beds,
coverings, caps, collars, and gloves; and of their flesh and fat, their most
delicious food; but their manner of hunting them, is attended with much danger
and little profit. They watch their haunts, and follow their tracks to the lakes
where they resort. They then choose some convenient place to conceal
themselves, to be in readiness to watch their prey. They then plant their rests
(for no Kamtshatskadale ever shoots without a rest) and when the bear comes
within distance, they point their guns, and let fly. If they kill or maim, so
that the bear cannot pursue, 'tis well; but if they miss, as they frequently do,
'tis happy for the hunter if he escapes. The enraged beast makes at the place
whence the report is heard, and, if
The Kamshatskadales, all along the Northern coasts, have a particular manner of dressing their food, which is the very reverse of that of the Indians in the South. There they roast or stew with stones made hot and buried, as it were, in the earth with their meat, by which its relish is said to be much improved. But here they boil it with hot stones immersed in water, by which its flavour is rendered more insipid. The same necessity, however, seems to have pointed out the same means to the people of the torrid and the frigid zones; for both being equally unacquainted with iron, and wood being incapable of resisting fire, when brought in contact with it, though the principle was obvious, the application was difficult; those, therefore, of the torrid zone, would naturally be led to call the warmth of the earth to their aid; whilst those in the frozen climates, would think water a more ready assistant: add to this, that the colder regions abound with hot springs; some in Kamshatska, in particular, are so hot, as to approach nearly to the degree of boiling water; but these they think it sinful to use, as we have already observed.
The dogs of this country are like our village curs, and are of different colours. They feed chiefly on fish; and their masters use them, instead of horses or rein-deer, to draw sledges.
The seas and lakes abound with a variety of amphibious animals, of which seals
and sea-horses and sea-cows, are the most numerous and the most profitable. Of
the skins of the seal they make their canoes, and on their flesh and fat they
feed
With the teeth and bones of the sea-horse and sea-cow, they point their arrows and weapons of war; and of their fat and blubber they make their oil. They have otters in their lakes, but their skins bear a great price.
They have birds of various kinds in great abundance. Among the sea-fowl, they have the puffin, the sea-crow, the Greenland pigeon, and the cormorant. They have swans, geese, and eleven species of ducks; and they have plovers, snipes, and small birds without number. They have likewise four kinds of eagles; the black eagle, with a white head; the white eagle; the spotted eagle, and the brown eagle. They have vultures also, and hawks innumerable.
This country swarms with insects in the summer, which are very troublesome; but they have neither frog, toad, nor serpent. Lizards are not rare; but they believe these creatures to be spies, sent from the infernal powers to inspect their lives and foretel their deaths; and therefore whenever they see one, they kill it, and cut it into small pieces, that it may not carry back any intelligence to their hurt.
But what is most remarkable, and deserves the attention of the curious, is the
general conformity between the Kamshatskadales towards the East, and of the
Americans, that live on the opposite coast, just over against them, in their
persons, habits, customs, and food; both dress exactly in the same manner; both
cut holes in their faces in the manner already described, in which they put
bones like false teeth, by way of ornament; and both make their canoes exactly
on the same construction. These are about twelve feet long and two
And now we have had occasion to mention this similiarity between the inhabitants
on the opposite shores of Asia and America, we shall embrace this opportunity
to correct a very material error in our account of our last year's voyage,
where, speaking of the Russian Discoveries, we took notice, after examining
Beering's Straits, though the Russians supposed that the lands were parted, here
we found the continent to join, by which the Reader will, no doubt, imagine,
that we have asserted, that the two continents of Asia and America join, which
they do not; but are separated by a strait between two promontories, which in
clear weather are so near as to be seen in sailing through with the naked eye.
But what is meant is this. When Beering made his discovery, in coasting along
the American shore, he discovered a sound or strait, which having surmounted,
It remains now only to give a short description of the bay and harbour where we repaired, which at the entrance is between two very high bluff rocks. On the starboard as we enter is the light-house, of which mention has already been made; and at the distance of about twenty miles the volcano, from whence flames and ashes are sometimes emitted; and these eruptions are carried by the wind to a great distance, and to the great terror of the inhabitants. The bay is about eight leagues deep, and lies from S. E. to N. W. and from N. E. to S. W. it is about four leagues. It is inaccessible during the winter, by reason of the ice, but very safe and convenient during the summer. There are in it three excellent harbours.
The harbour where we lay to careen and repair, would contain about twenty ships of the line in perfect safety, being closely surrounded with high hills, except at the entrance. The people are civil, and in their way very obliging; but their manner of living affords nothing very enchanting for sailors.
Our ships being now in as good repair as we had reason to expect from the length of the voyage they had passed, the rigorous weather to which they had been exposed, the boisterous seas they had shipped, and, above all, from the violent concussions of the ice that had shaken their very frames, and had stript them of their sheathing: and being likewise plentifully provided with provisions and stores, by the generosity of her Imperial Majesty of Russia, and by the care and benevolence of her Governors and officers.
On the 9th of October, 1779, we weighed, and soon were without the light-house, shaping our course to the southward, and On the 10th were in lat. 52.36. when we had a dead calm, and went to fishing for cod, with good success. Thermometer 52.
On the 11th we pursued our course, and by noon were in lat. 51.1.
On the 12th we stood S. W. and at night sounded at sixty-two fathom, having in the afternoon passed three small islands to the westward of us, and Cape Lopatka, the southernmost extremity of Kamtshatska. Lat. 50.19. Thermometer 48.52½.
On the 13th we were in lat. 50. long. 157. Course as before.
On the 14th we still continued the same course, full in view, and passed Paramousin, the largest of the Kurile Islands. Lat. 48.30.
The 15th we altered our course in search of some islands, which the Russians said
were inhabited by people of a gigantic size, who were covered with hair; but
who notwithstanding were very civil, and would supply us with cattle and hogs,
with which their islands abounded. These islands, however, we never found, nor
the land of
In the morning of the 23d we stood N. N. W. in search of land, but found none. At noon, by double al•. lat 4•.48. long. 146.17. E. About ten at night we altered our course W. N. W. and so continued till The 25th, when we were in lat. 40.18. long. 144.29. E. and continued our course with an easy sail. At three in the afternoon, a large piece of timber passed us to the northward. And On the 26th, early in the morning, the man at the mast-head called out land, distant about seven or eight leagues, bearing E. by N. to N. W. We then found ourselves within sight of Japan. The country is of a moderate heigth, consists of a double chain of mountains, abounds with wood, and has a pleasing appearance, being chequered with hills and vallies, and well stored with houses, villages, and cites. Here being only in ten fathom off the shore, we cast our fishing-lines overboard, but without success. Lat. 40.56. long. E. Thermometer 52.55.
Early in the morning of the 27th we saw 2 sail, seemingly very large, making
towards us from the shore. We cleared ship, and made the signal to
On the 28th we saw land bearing W. N. W. to S. half W. distant about six leagues. We then sounded sixty-four fathom, and stood from S. to S. E. by E. Lat. 38.16. long. 142.10. Thermometer fifty nine and a half.
On the 29th we again stood S. half W. and in the morning observed another vessel making 〈◊〉 the eastward at a great distance. We again hoisted English colours, but she paid no attention to them, and we pursued our course.
On the 30th we were in lat. 36.41. steering S. W. Thermometer sixty-four and a half.
On the 31st saw land very high, from W. half N. to N. W. at a great distance. Saw several birds of a brown plumage hovering about the ships, driven from the land by the storm of light+ning and rain, which blew in heavy squalls.
November 1st, steered all day from S. to S. W. saw a high mountain, which seemed to be a vol+cano, but at a great distance. Lat. at noon 35. ••. Tacked and stood to the northward.
On the 2d we again tacked, and stood E. half S. and, finding the water of a milky colour, sounded, but had no ground at 150 fathoms. Lat. 36.30. long. 140.26. Thermometer •• and a half.
The 3d, the wind ••om the S. S. E. we now continued working to the eastward, to clear the land, but made little way, though a storm came on, which lasted till next day.
The 4th, the wind being against us, we advanced but slowly, being at noon in 35.49. only; with a great swell from the S. W. Thermometer 72 and a half.
The 5th we had only advanced 2 min.
On the 6th, the wind shifted to the N. E. made sail, and stood all day S. by W. to S. S. W. Lat. 35.15.
The 7th, the sea all round was covered with pumice stones floating to the Northward, several pieces of which being taken up, weighed from one ounce to three pounds. We now approached the climate where bonettoes, albatrosses, sharks, dolphins, porpusses, and flying-fish are seen to play their frolics.
On the 8th we saw sea-weed, pieces of timber, great quantities of pumice, and other signs of land; but no land came in fight. At night we shortened sail.
On the 9th, we stood the whole day S. W. Lat. 32.48. Thermometer 71 and a half.
The 10th, blew a heavy gale from N. N. W. hauled out wind to N. E. On the 11th, bore away again S. by W. but, the gale increasing towards night, hauled our wind to the Northward.
The 12th, the gale continued, lay-to, with the ships heads to the Westward. Shipped many heavy seas, and the rain fell in torrents.
The 13th, the storm abated. Stood S. S. W. all day; we still continued to pass prodigious quantities of pumice-stones, which almost cover the sea between Japan and the Basha Islands, which indicate some great convulsion in nature. Our officers were of opinion, that the Company's land and Staten Island had disappeared in this convulsion; but our philosophers were of another mind. Lat. at noon 25.56. long. 143.18. E.
n the 14th made sail, W. S. W. At 11 A. M. the Discovery made the signal for land, which we answered. It then bore S. W. distant seven or eight leagues, and appeared like a burning mountain, from whence proceeded, as was supposed on better grounds, all the pumice we had seen. In the night saw volumes of flame proceeding from it, very awful.
On the 15th lost sight of the volcano; but in the evening another made a still more awful appearance, and the volcanic crater was clearly descernible by our glasses on board the ship. This was confirmed, by the strong sulphureous smell which they omitted, as we approached them. To the southernmost, our Captain gave the name of Sulphur Island. Lat. 24.48. long. 141.12. We were now in lat. 24.50. long. 140.20. E. Thermometer 72½.
On the 16th we bore away W. half S. Wind fresh from E. N. E. At noon found ourselves in lat. 24.25. having, by the variation and setting of the current, gone 20 miles to the Northward. Long. 138.16.20.″ E. Thermometer 75 and a half.
Early on the 17th, being near the tropic, and expecting the weather to continue fine, we shifted our canvas and running-rigging, and bent our old ones, knowing what we had still to expect before we reached our native shores; and we made the signal for the Discovery to go on our hull-beam in search of land, but found none. Lat. at noon 23.46.
On the 18th we stood the whole day W. S. W. with a stiff breeze. And On the 19th were in lat. 22.30. The 20th continued our course without any thing material.
The 21st we were in lat. 21.42. a hard gale and heavy rain.
The 22d we kept our course the whole day. Lat. at noon 20.46.
The 23d altered our course, and stood W. by S. Lat. 21. long. 123.20.
The 24th hauled our wind, and stood N. N. W. Hard gale from N. E.
The 25th the gale increasing, we lay-to, with the ships heads to the Northward. During the night there was an eclipse of the moon, but could not be observed because of the violent rain. At the time of the greatest darkness, a sailor on board the Discovery, in stowing the main top-mast-stay-sail of the Discovery, fell over board; but fortunately laying hold of a rope hanging from the fore-chains into the water, he was got on board, without any other hurt than a slight bruise on one shoulder. Lat. at noon 21.29.
The 26th we again bore away W. S. W. and so continued all day.
The 27th continued the same course all day. At night shortened sail, and hauled up to N. N. W.
Early on the 28th we were surprised by breakers close under our bows. Made the
signal to the Discovery, and immediately tacked to the Southward. At seven we
wore ship, and again stood to the N. W. At ten saw breakers from N. E. by E. to
W. by S. the nearest distant about a mile. We sounded at fifty-four fathom, and
bore away W. S. W. keeping a proper distance from the reefs, and coasting along
till we passed them. About noon the S. W. end bore from us N. N. W. distant
about two miles, lat. 21.30. long. 116.45, the island of Prata distant 3 or 4
On the 29th, about eight, A. M. we came in sight of a whole fleet of small craft, which we took to be fshing-vessels. They were at a great distance, and not one of them left their employment to come near us. Lat. 21.58. We were now only distant from Macao, the port to which we were bound, about twenty-six leagues.
On the 30th we wore ship, and stood to the Southward, and about eleven in the morning, the man at the mast-head called out, Land, bearing W. ½ S. distant about three leagues. This proved one of the northernmost of the Ladrone Islands. As soon as we came within distance, we fired two guns for a pilot, and one came presently along-side, and our Captain agreed for thirty-five dollars to carry us into Macao.
December 1st, about two in the afternoon, after a passage of one-and-twenty days, we cast anchor within four miles of the harbour, where we were met by two Chinese gentlemen, who told us of the French war, and of his Majesty's ship the Seahorse having left that place about the time we left Kamshatska. About eight in the evening our boats were manned, and our third Lieutenant went to the English factory there for news, and about ten returned with the magazines and news-papers for 1776, 1777, 1778, being the latest they had received. He likewise brought a confirmation of the French war, and of the continuance of the American war; and that five sail of English ships were now at Vampo, near Canton, in China.
On the 2d, early in the morning, we made sail, and anchored a-breast of the
island, and saluted the Governor with thirteen guns, which were answered
It was now three years since we had been in any port, where we could converse any
otherwise than by signs; and before any one was suffered to go ashore, the
Commodore called all hands aft, and ordered them to deliver up their journals,
and every writing, remark, or memorandum that any of them had made of any
particular respecting the voyage, on pain of the severest punishment in case
of concealment, in order that all those journals, writings, remarks, or
memorandums, respecting the voyage, might be sealed up, and directed to the
Lords of the Admiralty. At the same time requiring that every chart of the
coasts, or of any part of any of the coasts where we had been, or draught of any
thing curious might be delivered up in like manner, in order to accompany the
journals, &c. all which was complied with; and the papers were made up and
sealed accordingly in sight of the whole crew, the papers of the commissioned
officers by themselves, the papers of the non-commissioned officers by
themselves, and the papers of the marines and common men by themselves. The
boats were then ordered out, and sent to Macao for fresh provisions, which next
day were dealt out to the ships companies at full allowance. But before these
could return, there came from the town boats with beef, veal, pork, ducks,
geese, turnips, carrots, lemons, oranges, and every other
Being now safely moored, the first thing that claimed the attention of the Commodore, was to provide as well as he could for the safety of the crews in their return home. The news of a French war, without letting us know at the same time the order issued by the French king in our favour, gave us much concern. Our ships were ill fitted for war; the decks fore and aft being finished flush, had no covering for men or officers; it was therefore thought necessary to strengthen the stanchions and rails, and to raise a kind of parapet, musket-proof on both decks; and likewise to strengthen the cabins as much as possible, in case of action. And as it was agreed that both ships could carry more guns, if any were to be purchased, the Commodore was for taking the ships to Canton, till persuaded from it by some gentlemen belonging to the English factory, who undertook to negociate the business without giving umbrage to the Chinese, who certainly would, they said, be offended at the appearance of ships of war in their river, and would oppose their progress; reminding him at the same time, of the disagreeable dispute in which Commodore Anson was formerly involved on a similar occasion; and how hurtful it was to the Company's commerce for several years after. Upon these representations the Commodore relinquished his design, and Capt. King, with other officers, were sent in a Company's ship, assisted by one or two gentlemen belonging to the factory, to Canton, to purchase cannon and such other stores as were not to be had at Macao.
On the 18th they set sail, and at the same time two Portuguese vessels from the harbour of Macao, came and anchored close by us. They were bound to Bengal and Madras, and very readily assisted us with ropes for running rigging, some canvas, and with 60 fathom of cable. They likewise exchanged four small cannon and some shot with the Discovery for a spare anchor.
The 25th, being Christmas-day, was kept, as is usual with English sailors, in jollity and mirth; and what added to the pleasure of the day, there was not a man ill in either ship.
On the 28th the Commodore received a letter from Capt. King, with an account of the disasters that had happened in the passage, having lost two anchors and their boat, and were several times in danger of running ashore; that they did not arrive at Canton till the 24th; but that he hoped soon to return with the cannon and stores, for which he had bargained, though at a great price.
Here they learnt that the skins we had brought with us from the N. W. Continent of America, were of nearly double the value at Canton, as at Kamshatska.
Early on the 29th there came into the harbour of Macao a Spanish galleon from Manilla, said to have more than two millions of treasure on board; and before we left our station, there came in another worth double that sum. We were unacquainted with the Spanish war, or these ships, had we been properly commissioned, might easily have been captured. It is astonishing, that none of our cruisers have ever lain in wait for these ships, as their voyage is annual, and their course known.
The same evening a quarrel happened between a party of our sailors, on shore with leave, and some of the town's people, in which several were dangerously wounded on both sides; and Mr. Burney, first Lieutenant of the Resolution, had a dagger run through his left arm in endeavouring to put an end to the fray. For this insult the Governor sent to demand satisfaction; but upon examination, the town's people were found to be the aggressors. The Governor made a very handsome apology for his mistake, and the affair ended without any serious consequences.
We were now visited daily by strangers, who came out of curiosity to see ships
that had been so many years upon discovery; and every one was anxious to learn
what he could concerning our course, but that we were not at liberty to tell
them. Among the rest came two French spies, as we imagined; but not being able
to make out any thing criminal against them, they were suffered to depart. The
suspicion arose from some of our men, who having particularly marked them,
insisted that they had formerly sailed with them in the French service. Nothing
remarkable till Jan. the 8th, 1780, when Capt. King, with the officers that
accompanied him, arrived in the Company's vessel, with the cannon, ammunition,
and stores from Canton. These being shipped, nothing remained to be done, but
to take on board the live stock which the Commodore and officers had purchased
for their own use, and nine head of cattle to be killed at sea for the use of
the ship's company; the beef and pork which we brought from England, being now
scarce eatable. Provisions of all kinds were here very dear, and very
indifferent; but what made us amends, was the
On the 11th of January we unmoored, and the wind being fair, came to sail with a pleasant breeze; but the wind dying away in the evening, we cast anchor; and in the night, John Cave, Quarter-master, and Robert Spencer, ran away with the great cutter.
And On the 12th, we were the whole day detained in endeavouring to recover them, but to no purpose.
On the 13th, we passed the fort, and saluted the garrison with 13 four pounders, which they answered with an equal number.
We had now nothing but a beaten track to pass, in our way to our long wished-for native country.
On the 20th, we made the little group of islands, known by the name of Pulo
Condore, in lat. 8.40. N. at one of which we anchored, and found it inhabited.
Here we both wooded and watered, and the carpenters felled some large trees,
which were afterwards sawed on board. The trees on these islands are chiefly
cedar, iron-wood, mangrove, manchinael, and box. Some nutmeg-trees there were,
but of a wild kind, that bear a fruit without taste or smell. In pursuit of
game, of which there was plenty, our gentlemen fell in with a party of natives,
one of whom accompanied them to the ships. We made him understand that we wanted
provisions; and he had not left us long, before a number of boats came round the
island, laden with fruits, fowls, ducks, and other provisions, which they
readily exchanged for any thing we offered them, though they were not wholly
unacquainted with the use of money; for being informed that herds of buffaloes
were on the island, we purchased seven; three of them, of a large size,
On the 28th we unmoored; and on The 31st, made the island of Banka; and having passed the Straits, On the 5th of February, we made the island of Sumatra, where we saw a large ship lying at anchor; and On the 7th, passed the island of Java, where we saw two more. We made the signal to the Discovery to prepare for action, and we did the same, hoisting English colours. It was some time before they shewed any, but, at length, they hoisted Dutch colours. We sent our boat on board, and received the first news of a Spanish war. We pursued our course; and On the 11th, we made the island of Cocoterra. Here, from a healthy ship's company, several of our people fell ill of the flux, and so continued for some time; however, having got plenty of good water on board, we sailed On the 13th, directing our course to Prince's island.
On the 15th, we entered the bay of Prince's island, where Capt. Cook, when he
commanded
On the 7th of April, we were alarmed by finding our rudder-head almost twisted off. We got the pendants fixed to steer with tackles, it being the carpenter's opinion it could not last till our arrival at the next port. However, by proper application it lasted till we arrived at the Cape.
On the 9th, we fell in with Cape Lagullas, where, about nine in the morning, we saw a small vessel cruising, which proved to be the East India Company's snow, Betsey, looking out for the East India fleet. She left England the 5th of November, and False Bay on the 4th instant. She confirmed the account we had received of the Spanish war. We exchanged some trifles, and soon parted.
And On the 12th, we entered Bay False, came to, and moored the same day, after having saluted the fort with 13 guns, which was answered by the same number. We had scarce dropt anchor, when the Governor came on board, bringing with him a packet of letters for Capt. Cook, which had lain there ever since the beginning of 1779; he had heard of the death of Capt. Cook by a Dutch vessel, and expressed great concern for that unhappy event, asking a thousand questions concerning the particulars.
The first care of our Commodore was to provide for the sick; and by three in the afternoon they were all landed, and sent to the hospital under the care of the Surgeon's mate. All hands were next set to their different employments, some to wood and water, and some to compleat the repairs. These they forwarded with the utmost expedition, every one being eager to get to his native country. Of the repairs, the Resolution's rudder was the most material. The first thing, therefore, to be done, was to unhinge it and get it on shore; and though this was immediately put in hand, it was The 27th before it was restored to its place.
By the 29th, the fick, who were numerous when we arrived at the Cape, we having 16 ill of the flux, were pretty well recovered: the repairs were in forwardness, and the stores ready to be taken on board at a moment's notice, when news was brought us, that an express was arrived at Table Bay from England, in the Sibbald frigate, which had only been ten weeks from Plymouth, and that she was to return again as soon as she had delivered her dispatches. Both Captains went instantly to learn the contents; and, on their return, orders were given to prepare as fast as possible to sail. This was joyful news. The substance of these dispatches related chiefly to the course the East Indiamen were to steer, to fall in with the convoy appointed to meet them; with some instructions for our Commodore, respecting the papers which were to be transmitted to the Admiralty, which were all put on board the frigate; and Mr. Portlock, Master's mate, embarked along with them.
On the 30th, they set sail; but it was The 7th of May before we were in readiness
to follow. About noon, on that day, the signal was
On the 19th of April, the whole crew were near being blown up, by the Snow's taking fire forwards: the ship was much damaged, and they were putting into the Cape to resit, and then were bound for St. Helena.
On the 1•th, we made sail, and pursued our course 〈◊〉 without any material occurrence, till The 10th of June, when the Discovery's boat brought us word, that, in ••••…ising the great guns, the carpenter's mate had his arm shattered in a shocking manner, by part of the wadding being left in after a former discharge; another man was slightly wounded at the same time.
On the 12th, it began to blow very hard, and so continued till next day, when the Discovery sprung her main-top-mast, and we were obliged to lie-to till another was put up.
On the 13th, we crossed the line to the Northward, and observed a water-spout to the N. W. at no great distance; and for the remainder of the month had fine weather. Thermometer from 80 to 78½.
July the 1st, we had the Discovery's people on
On the 13th, the ship's birth-day was celebrated on board, and double allowance given to the whole crew, who were at this time in perfect health.
On the 27th, at day-light, the Discovery made the signal for seeing a sail. We instantly began to clear ship, in case of an enemy, and hoisted English colours; and, on our near approach, 〈◊〉 sail did the same. She was bound to the Southward, and we pursued our course.
On the 1st of August, just at sun-set, we saw a sail at a great distance to the Westward, but in the morning she was quite out of sight. We were then in lat. 43.56. N.
On the 7th, we were in lat. 48. long. 10.10. W. a heavy gale, with rain.
On the 9th, the wind shifted to the Eastward, when we shaped our course to the North of Ire+land. Blew hard all day On the 21st, being then in lat. 59.4. N. long. 9.6. saw a sail standing to the Southward, when we made the Discover•…'s signal to chace; but the gale continuing, could not come near enough to 〈…〉. In the evening, the man at the masthead called out, Land, distant about three leagues.
〈◊〉 on the 22d, made the signal for a pilot, and at eight o'clock a pilot came off, and by the 〈◊〉 we were safely moored in the harbour 〈◊〉 S•…omness, in the North of Scotland. We were soon visited by the gentlemen in the neighbourhood▪
〈◊〉 the 23d, fresh beef and greens were served in 〈…〉 to both ships companies;
and the 〈…〉 passengers went on shore, and set out for 〈…〉 The Captains and
officers went likewise
By the 29th, we had got wood and water enough on board to serve us to London; and at noon, the signal was made to weigh; but the wind coming about, and blowing fresh from the S. E. obliged us not only to relinquish our design for the present, but detained us till the 19th of September.
On the 20th of September, Capt. King of the Discovery, Mr. Bailey, our astronomer, and Mr. Webber, left the ships, and set out for London; and Mr. Burney, first Lieutenant of the Resolution, took the command of the Discovery in the absence of Capt. King.
During our stay, the ships were visited by gentlemen from all the islands round; and by the Apollo frigate and her consort: they brought in a prize, valued at 10,000l. and both Captains came to visit Capt. Gore, on board the Resolution, who now was taken very ill, and so continued to the end of the voyage. The same afternoon, the wind came round in our favour, when the signal was made for unmooring, and both ships got under way. At night we came to an anchor with the tide.
On the 23d, Samuel Johnson, Serjeant of marines, died; and next morning his corpse was committed to the deep.
On the 25th, the wind came again to the Eastward, and continued against us most of our passage.
On the 28th, we passed by Leith, off which we again spoke with his Majesty's ship Apollo.
On the 29th, John Davis, Quarter-master, died. Our detension at Stromness proved
unfortunate for these two men, who died in their passage.—Had the ships arrived
in a direct course, their
On the 30th, we came to an anchor off Yarmouth, in company with his Majesty's sloops of war, the Fly and Alderney. Our boats were immediately sent on shore for provisions; and for a spare cable for our small bower, that we had being near worn out. We lay here till The 2d of October, when we weighed, and sailed.
On the 4th, we came to at the Nore. And On the 6th, dropt our anchors at Deptford, having been absent just four years, three months, and two days.